97-2006 Corvette Twin Turbo

HP Performance
301 E 4th St Roswell,NM 88201
505-623-2555

1
 SAFETY EQUIPMENT

ALWAYS USE APPROPRIATE SAFETY EQUIPEMENT

INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO: EYE PROTECTION, EAR
PROTECTION, BREATHING APPARATUS, AND SKIN
PROTECTION IE: GLOVES LONG SLEEEVE SHIRTS PANTS ETC.

HP PERFORMANCE IS NOT RESPOSIBLE FOR THE MISSUSE OF

EQUIPEMENT OR THE INSTALLATION OF THIS TURBO
SYSTEM, AND THEREFORE CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

2
 Tools Required

1. Basic hand tools ie: wrenchees, ratchets, screwdrivers etc

2. Right AngleDrill
3. Drill bit assortment
4. Reciprocating Saw or equivalent
5. 2.5” hole saw
6. ½” pipe thread tap
7. Scribe or marker

BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLATION MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE

1. Checked to make sure that you have all of the parts neccesary
2. Read through the instructions completely

TECH HELP 505-623-2555

3
Parts Removal

1. Disconnect and remove battery

2. Remove front wheels

4
PARTS REMOVAL
• Remove intake air tube and filter box
• Remove plastic cover in front of radiator

5
PARTS REMOVAL
1. Remove all plastic access panels under
front fascia, and behind front wheels.

6
PARTS REMOVAL
• Remove screws holding fascia, and set
fascia aside
Remove screws holding fenders, including
screws in door jamb and screws on the
inside of fender under the headlights (3
total screws, 2 total nuts under each
headlight). Set fenders aside

7
PARTS REMOVAL
• On passenger side behind front wheel is
the computer. Remove computer
connector, and bracket. Set computer
aside

8
PARTS REMOVAL
1. Remove factory catalytic h-pipe

9
PARTS REMOVAL
• Remove engine drive belt
2. Remove coil covers
3. Remove alternator
4. Remove factory manifolds

10
 BATTERY INSTALLATION

1. To facilitate the installation of the turbo system the battery needs to be remounted in the rear
of the car.
2. Using the supplied battery and installation kit remount the battery to the rear of the car
3. The passenger rear storage compartment makes a good location. If it is possible a NHRA
approved battery box is always recommended NEVER remount a conventional liquid type
battery in the rear of the car without a proper battery box.
4. Run the wire behind the rear quarter panel liner and through the rocker panel.
5. Be sure to secure the wire free of any suspension or moving parts
6. The battery ground should be grounded securely to the frame. Make sure to remove any
paint or debris that may hinder your ground connection

11
 TAPPING THE OIL PAN

1. Remove Starter.
1. Using a right angle drill, drill a hole in the pan as shown. Holes
should be as high as possible while maintaining ability to turn fitting
make sure that the hole is the correct size for the ½” pipe thread tap.
NOTE: Make sure that fittings will clear starter and oil pan bolts
2. Use grease on finger to remove oil shavings from the inside of pan.
repeat until all shavings are removed from the pan
3. Submerse a ½” pipe thread tap in grease and proceed to tap oil pan
NOTE make sure to tap holes straight
4. Once the holes are tapped repeat step 2
5. After all shavings are removed install ½”x-10 oil drain fittings using
thread sealant. Reinstall Starter.

12
Make sure that you tap the
Holes straight

13
 Battery Tray Bracket Removal

1. Locate battery tray behind front wheel on passenger side

2. Remove the bolts that hold the tray to the bracket
3. Slide the tray up and off of the bracket
4. Using a reciprocating saw, or equivalent, cut the bracket off flush with the frame
Note: If a saw is not available a hammer and chisel will work to break the welds.

14
 Computer And Misc Wiring

In order to shield the wiring from heat, there are a few steps that need to be taken
1. Remove the bracket that connects the inner fender to the vertical door plate
2. Using a 2” hole saw cut a hole in inner fender just in front of hood latch
3. There are misc connectors in fuse box area. These connectors are composed of
two basic groups; the side going to the inside of the car, and the side going to the
front of the car. The side going to the front of the car will be routed through the
hole that is by the bracket removed in step 1. The side going to the car will pass
through the hole that was cut in step 2.
4. After routing, connect all connectors, make sure that the color on the connector
is the same on both sides of the connection.
5. Zip tie connections securely out of the way so that they do not interfere with
anything

15
 Injector Installation

1. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold
2. Gently pull the fuel rail and injectors from the manifold. Be careful to remove all
o-rings that may have come off of the injectors
3. Remove the clips holding the injectors to the rail
4. Slide the injector from the fuel rail. Check to make sure all o-rings are accounted for
5. Lubricate new injector o-rings with grease to ease installation and seal o-rings
6. Installation is reverse of removal.

16
 Oil System Installation

1. Remove oil temperature sensor and manifold

2. Assemble oil pressure assembly as shown NOTE: Attach 90 degree fittings to
t-fitting before attaching assembly to manifold spacer
3. Install manifold and spacer to engine block using the factory gasket on one side
and black rtv silicone on the other side. 6mm bolts are provided for install
Continued next page

17
4. Attach long oil line to the fitting that points up. Run the line up and over
the back of the motor to the passenger side turbo
5. Attach the short oil line to the fitting that points to the driver side. Run the
oil line over the top of the frame rail to the driver side turbo.NOTE: Make
sure that the oil lines do not interfere with any moving parts or any tubing.
6. Install the oil fittings into the top of the turbo cartridge. NOTE: Some
turbos may have a larger size hole in the top. If you received one of these
turbos, use the ¼:-1/8” pipe thread bushing.
7. Attach the oil drain flange to the drain side of the turbo cartridge using the
supplied gasket. If no gasket is available simply use black rtv as a sealant.

18
 Cutting Tubing Holes

1. On the inner fender just above the rear of the tire is a flat spot. This is where
you will cut your hole
2. Position the pilot bit of the hole until it is almost to the top and hole saw in as far as
it will go. This will give you a starting point for the slit to cut for the tubing
3. Starting at the hole saw marks on the top trace all the way down on each side untill
you reach the vertical section that holds the headlight support panel (see Pictures)
4. Cut as little at a time as possible making sure to check fitment along the way. You
want the tube to fit as snug as possible
5. Using the hole saw cut two holes underneath the headlight as shown. Trim to fit the
tubing
6. Both sides use the same technique.
7. USE ADEQUATE SAFETY
EQUIPEMENT INCLUDING
VENTILATOR AND SAFETY
GLASSES WHEN TRIMMING
FIBERGLASS
Continued next page

19
 Wheel well Cut

Continued next page 20

 FIBERGLASS TRIMMING CONT

1. Using a 2.5” hole saw cut two holes one on top of the other just to the outside of the
headlight assembly This is where the wheel well tubes will enter.
2. Trim as nessecary.
3. Test Fit tube to ensure a proper cut.

21
 Header installation

1. Clean the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. CAUTION: The cylinder
head is aluminum and will scratch and score very easily.
2. Install the headers using the factory stainless steel exhaust gasket. Tighten the bolts
starting from the inside to the outside.

22
 Turbocharger Installation

1. After the headers have been installed The turbochager assembly will follow
2. The Exhaust assembly will first be assembled outside of the car. Start by placing
the the turbine housing outlet side down on a bench
6. Take the passenger header-turbo tube and using the supplied gasket, bolt the tube to
the 4-bolt rectangular flange on the turbine housing. Do not tighten at this time.
7. Take the passenger downpipe (with no sealant as you will be removing the
assembly later) and bolt to the outlet side of the housing. Do not tighten at this
time
8. Install the assembly onto the passenger side header using a 2.5” v-band clamp
tighten the clamp until just before the assembly is unable to rotate (Note you may
have to trim the fiberglass behind the wheel to facilitate installation. WHILE
TRIMMING MAKE SURE TO WEAR A VENTILATOR TO PREVENT
BREATHING OF FIBERGLASS PARTICLES, AS WELL AS ADEQUATE
PROTECTION FOR YOUR SKIN TO PREVENT IRRITATION!!! Take
your time and make very small cuts. It is easier to trim more later than it is to put
back fiberglass. Have patience and your install will look that much more
impressive.)
9. Follow the same steps for the driver side turbocharger assembly

Continued next page 23

Continued next page 24
1. Cut the factory h-pipe 2 inches before the front mounting bracket on each side.
2. Install the slip joints onto the h-pipe, but do not clamp them. The large end goes on
the h-pipe side and the small end will go on the downpipe side.
3. Install the h-pipe, making sure that the slip joints are on both the h-pipe and the down
pipe. Do not tighten at this time.

25
 Turbocharger Assembly Fitting

1. Once All of the exhaust tubing is installed in the car, the turbocharger must be fitted.
2. Carefully fit the turbo into the exhaust housing NOTE: SOME TRIMMING OF
FIBERGLASS IS REQUIRED TO FIT THE TURBO IN THE CAR. TAKE YOUR
TIME AND WEAR PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Continued next page

26
 NOTE

1. The direction that the turbo outlet faces is important to the installation, using the intake
tubing and the pictures provided make sure that the outlet is facing the correct direction.
This will ensure that you have trimmed correctly for the turbo
2. The bolts (marked with red in pic) that hold the compressor housing to the backplate will
need to be loosened to rotate the compressor housing

27
 Oil Drain Installation

1. After the turbocharger is fitted and the fiberglass is trimmed the oil drain comes next
2. Just under the turbo on the frame rail 2.5” from the top of the frame rail is where the oil
drain hole needs to be drilled
3. Using a ¾ inch drill bit drill into the frame. After the hole is drilled elongate the hole so that
the drill enters the frame perpendicular to the car, NOT PERPENDICULAR TO THE
FRAME. The Hose when installed needs to point towards the fittings that are in the oil pan

Continued next page

28
 OIL DRAIN CONT.
1. After the outside of the frame is drilled the inside of the frame needs to be drilled
2. Using a long ¾ inch drill bit drill into the inside of the frame rail. Make sure that you are
drilling in a direction that faces the oiol drain toward the fitting in the pan.
3. After the frame is drilled the inside rail underneath the car needs to be drilled. You will be
able to drill this with a right angle drill and a unibit. The holes will need to be drilled in a
location that will allow the lines to pass over the exhaust without touching

29
 OIL LINE TRIMMING

1. Once you have drilled all of the holes insert the oil lines starting from the inside by the pan
through the frame toward the turbo. The end without a fitting is the end that should be on
the turbo side. NOTE: A piece of wire routed through the hole make a good guide for the
hose to follow
2. With the hose attached to the pan make sure that there is slack enough as not to stretch the
hose when the motor torques over. NOTE: The hose needs to not have any dips or low
spots, there needs to be a straight shot to the oil pan.
3. Trim the hose to the right length and install the fitting. The sleeve needs to be installed prior
to the rest of the fitting. The ferrule goes between the steel braid and the teflon hose. The
rest of the fitting slides inside the ferrule, and the sleeve is used to tighten it together.
NOTE: when installing the ferrule, make sure to push it down as far as possible to ensure a
good seal.

30
1. Once you have trimmed to fit the turbo,and the oil drain lines are installed, remove the
exhaust tubing for final assembly
2. Assemble the tubing using the supplied gaskets, Use Ultra Copper RTV silicone on the
downpipe
3. After the assembly is in place install the turbo into the exhaust housing using the supplied
clamps
4. Check clearance between the frame and the tubing and if necessary rotate/adjust the tubing
to provide clearance
5. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO WIRES OR LINES COMING IN
CONTACT WITH THE TUBING. IF NECCESARY REROUT ANY WIRING OR LINES
TO AVOID CONTACT. TUBING WILL GET HOT

31
 WASTEGATE INSTALLATION

1. After the exhaust tubing is installed, installation of the wastegates should follow Each side
of the tubing has a provision for one wastegate.
2. When installing the wastegate the side with the valve is the side that should be bolted to the
tube attaching the turbo to the header.Use the gaskets supplied with the wastegate
3. The installation of the wastegate dump tubes will follow
4. Using the supplied gaskets attach the dump tubes to the wategates they will only go one one
way

32
 INTAKE TUBING INSTALLATION
1. The intake tubes that pass over the wheel are not side specific. The tubes that connect to the
intercooler are not side specific.
2. When installing the intake tubing be sure to leave all clamps loose enough to manipulate the
tubing if need be. Only when you have installed and aligned all of the tubing should you
tighten the clamps.
3. The wheel well tubes need to have about 3 inches of overhang in order to be properly
aligned. The straighter part points toward the rear of the car while the curved part points
forward (see Pics)

Continued next page

33
 Wheel well
rear
Blow off valve

intercooler
front

When installing the couplings make sure that there is at least one inch of
The tube inside the coupling for the clamp to hold to

Coupling placement is as follows: 2-2.5 reducers go on the turbo if you

have 50 or 57mm turbos the 2” side attaches to the turbo, and the 2.5”
side attaches to the turbo to wheel well tube. If you have 67mm or larger
turbos then an straight 2.5” coupling is used. 2.5” Straight Couplings are
used to connect all of the tubing up to the intercooler.
34

Continued next page

 Wheel Well

Turbo Side

Wheel Well

Turbo Side 35
From the intercooler to the throttle body the couplings are as follows:
3.5” Straight connects the intercooler outlet to the 3.5” side of the carbon
fiber charge tube. 3.5” Straight connects then 3.75” side of the carbon
fiber charge tube to the inlet side of the mass air meter. From the mass
air meter to the throttle body use a 3.5-4” reducer . The 4” side attaches
to the throttle body. Trim to length if necessary.

36
 Blow Off Valve Installation

1. The blow off valves need to be installed on the tubes just prior to the intercooler
2. The side with the valve is the side that you attach to the tube. The vacuum fitting should
be pointing straight up. Use the 1” couplings and trim them to length if necessary.

37
 Turbo Support Spring Installation

1. The turbo system is supplied with springs that help support the weight of the turbocharger
assembly. USE THEM
2. Installation is just a matter of connecting oneend of the spring to the compressor housing
and the other end to a spot on the car.
3. Use a 3/8” washer behind one of the compressor bolts to attach the spring
4. Use another 3/8” washer to attach the opposite end of the spring
Continued next page
Driver side

38
 There needs to be enough tension on
Driver side upper mount
the springs to add support to the
turbo, but not to much that you begin
to distort the spring or the mounting
spots.

Passenger side upper mount

39
 Radiator Air Deflector Installation

1. After you have installed and tightened all of the intake tubing, installation of the radiator
shield will follow
2. With the intercooler in the car slide the shield up from the bottom, cutout end up.
3. The top of the shield will slide under the factory radiator hold down.
4. In order to mount the shield in the correct position, use the lower factory air box studs to
hold the shield in place. This is done by pushing the bottom of the shield up over the studs
and letting it rest on them.

Air box stud

Secure the shield to the frame using screws

One on each side

40
 Vacuum line Routing

The vacuum lines for the wastegate and blow off valve need to come from a manifold pressure
source. They can be t’d off from each other as long as you are not using a bleed style
boost controller.
1. Run the vacuum lines from a sufficient manifold vacuum source. The fitting directly
behind the throttle body in the intake makes a good source. (note this is used for
crankcase evac from the factory and you will reroute all crankcase vents later.)
2. Run a line to each wastegate. You can t off of these lines to each blow off valve.
3. Connect the vacuum line to the bottom of the wastegate only. This will allow you to
make the least amount of boost possible.

Bottom vacuum port If you are using a boost

controller then follow the
instructions that are supplied
with the controller

41
 Crankcase Evacuation System

1. The factory has crankcase evac that is plumbed into the intake. This needs to be rerouted
to the front of the turbos
2. The valve cover is where the crankcase evac starts. From the valve cover on each side rout
the supplied 3/8” line to the filter on the front of the turbo
3. Any other crankcase evac spots need to be capped off.
4. Using the supplied 3/8” barb fittings drill a small hole in the side of the filter
5. One end of the barb pushes into the filter and the other end attaches to the hose

Evacuation Make sure to secure the hose

Line to the barb using a zip tie to
prevent the barb from
entering the turbo. The
tighter the fitment on the
barb the better

42
 Finishing Up

1. Reinstall the alternator and the drive belt

2. After the installation is complete reinstall the fenders and front clip
3. All of the access panels under the car will need to go back one, some of them may need to
be trimmed so take you time.
4. Verify that all of the clamps are tight
5. Verify that all of the bolts on the turbo are tight
6. Verify that all of the oil lines are tight.
7. At this time make sure that there are no lines or wires touching any of the exhaust tubing.
The ac line on the passenger side needs to be moved away from the header as well. Be
careful not to crimp this line.
8. After you have secured all lines and wires mount the Computer Using the supplied Bracket
9. Test fit the bracket and the computer. Once you have done this you will need to mark on the
bracket two opposite holes. These holes are going to be used to mount the computer to the
bracket and are also the holes that mount the cover of the computer to the body Also mark
holes on the car that correspond to the holes in the bracket
10. Drill a small hole at each of the spots that you marked and install the supplied 6mm machine
screws through the hole and into the computer. You are now ready to install the bracket.
11. Using self drilling screws mount the bracket to the holes that you had previously marked .

Continued next page

43
Mounted Computer and Bracket 44
 Before You Start the Car Checklist

! All clamps are tight

!All bolts are tight
!Oil lines are tight
!All lines/wires are free of tubing
!Change oil/filter
!Oil lines are have no kinks or dips
!All vacuum lines have zip ties on each end to prevent blow off
!All exhaust clamps are tight
!There are no fuel leaks

45
 After the Car is Running Checklist

! No oil leaks. Make sure there is oil pressure

! No exhaust leaks
! No vacuum leaks
! Check to make sure that the tune up is good ie: air fuel ratio and verify timing
! Enjoy!

46