KNITTING

A method by which yarn is manipulated to

create a textile or fabric.
Introduction

Hand and machine knitted fabric is created by interlocking a

series of loops. The loops (stitches) are interlocked using a
needle to hold the existing loop while a new loop is formed
in front of the old loop.

Differences in yarn - varying in fibre type, weight, uniformity

and twist; needle size, and stitch type allow for a variety of
knitted fabrics with different properties, including colour,
texture, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and
integrity.
Like weaving, knitting is a technique for producing a two-dimensional fabric made from a one-dimensional yarn or thread.

In weaving, threads are always straight, running parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft threads).

By contrast, the yarn in knitted fabrics follows a meandering path (a course), forming symmetric loops (also called bights) symmetrically above and
below the mean path of the yarn.

These meandering loops can be easily stretched in different directions giving knit fabrics much more elasticity than woven fabrics.

Depending on the yarn and knitting pattern, knitted garments can stretch as much as 500%. For this reason, knitting was initially developed for
garments that must be elastic or stretch in response to the wearer's motions, such as socks and hosiery.

For comparison, woven garments stretch mainly along one or other of a related pair of directions that lie roughly diagonally between the warp and the
weft, while contracting in the other direction of the pair (stretching and contracting with the bias), and are not very elastic, unless they are woven from
stretchable material such as spandex.

Knitted garments are often more form-fitting than woven garments, since their elasticity allows them to contour to the body's outline more closely; by
contrast, curvature is introduced into most woven garments only with sewn darts, flares, gussets and gores, the seams of which lower the elasticity of
the woven fabric still further
WEFT AND WARP KNITTING
The two basic types of knits are
weft, or filling knits—including plain, rib, purl, pattern, and double knits
warp knits—including tricot, raschel, and milanese.
 Weft knitting
Weft knitting uses one continuous yarn to form
courses, or rows of loops, across a fabric.
There are three fundamental stitches in weft
knitting: plain-knit, purl and rib.
On a machine, the individual yarn is fed to one
or more needles at a time.
Warp knitting
Weft knitting machines can produce both flat
and circular fabric. Warp knitting represents the fastest method of
Circular machines produce mainly yardage but producing fabric from yarns.
may also produce sweater bodies, pantyhose Warp knitting differs from weft knitting in that
and socks. each needle loops its own thread.
Flatbed machines knit full garments and The needles produce parallel rows of loops
operate at much slower speeds. simultaneously that are interlocked in a zigzag
The simplest, most common filling knit fabric pattern.
is single jersey. Fabric is produced in sheet or flat form using
Double knits are made on machines with two one or more sets of warp yarns.
sets of needles. The yarns are fed from warp beams to a row of
All hosiery is produced as a filling knit process. needles extending across the width of the
machine.
Two common types of warp knitting machines
are the Tricot and Raschel machines.
Raschel machines are useful because they can
process all yarn types in all forms (filament,
staple, combed, carded, etc.).
Warp knitting can also be used to make pile
fabrics often used for upholstery.
Terms of Knitting
Open Loop: The open loop is one in which the loop forming yarns does not cross at the bottom of the loop.

Closed loop: In closed loop the legs cross at the bottom, so that the loop closing takes place.

Face loop: When the new loop emerges through the old loop from back to the face or front side during loop formation, this kind of loop is known as the
face loop or weft knit loop.
Back loop: If the new loop passes from the face side to the back side of the old loop during loop formation, this kind of loop is called a back loop or weft
purl loop.

Technical face: The side of the knit fabric that consists of all face or knit loops is called the technical face of the knitted fabric.

Technical back: The side of the knit fabric having full of back or purl loops are called the technical back of the fabric.
Needle loop: The upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn is called the needle loop.

Sinker loop: The lower part of the knit loop is technically referred as the sinker loop. It is the connection of two legs belonging to the neighbouring stitches
lying laterally.

Courses: The series of loops that are connected horizontally, continuously is called courses.
Wales: The series of loops that intermeshes vertically is known as wales.
Types of knits

weft knits Specialised Weft Knits warp knits

Single jersey Intarsia raschel knit

Rib Knit Jacquard Jerseys tricot knit
Purl Knit Knitted Terry
Interlock Knit Knitted Velour
Sliver Knit
Fleece
Single jersey/flat knit
Flat or Jersey Knit fabrics have visible flat vertical lines on the front and
dominant horizontal ribs on the back of the fabric. The flat or jersey knit stitch
is used frequently, it is fast, inexpensive, and can be varied to produce fancy
patterned fabrics. The knitting machine used to manufacture single jersey
fabric has just one row of needles, This creates just one layer of fabric. one side
of the fabric is smoother than the other. The material feels soft and light and it
drapes very easily. Single jersey fabric is also very breathable.

Characterized by its considerable stretchiness and close knit, jersey is a

popular fabric for underwear, T-shirts, and other types of garments that you
wear close to your skin. Since it is lightweight, jersey is not remarkably durable
or insulative, but it is ideal as a base layer worn beneath thicker and more
durable clothing. Jersey is highly absorbent, and it is very breathable despite
its fully opaque, close-knit structure. This structure provides jersey with an
attractive drape, and the intensity of this draping effect varies depending on
the material used.
Characterstics

Their front and back faces are different from each other.

Fabrics that are produced in the form of tubes, but can also be cut and used in the form of open width.

Wider widths can be obtained in single jersey fabrics compared to rib and interlock fabrics.

It stretches at approximately the same rate both transversely and longitudinally.

If they are too stretched, their shapes may be distorted.

When used as a garment, it is worse to wrap the body than other weft-oriented knitted fabrics due to their less flexibility.

Single jersey knit fabric knit has less patterning possibilities than other knits.

Since the knitting report is formed on a single needle on a single plate, it is the knitting type with the least amount of yarn spent per unit area.

When cut, curls occur from the sides towards the back of the fabric and from the top and bottom towards the front of the fabric.

They have less tendency to wrinkle.

Manufacturing process

Jersey manufacturers begin by taking cotton, wool, or synthetic yarn and loading it into an
automated knitting machine. The knitting machine then twists and combines yarn to create
the distinctive, close-knit structure of jersey fabric. Once complete, jersey fabric looks like a
latticework of twisted vertical yarns connected by untwisted horizontal yarns. In some cases,
yarn intended for manufacture into jersey garments is dyed prior to the knitting process,
and in other scenarios, textile manufacturers dye fabric once it is finished. Depending on
the material used, textile manufacturers may also apply flame retardants or other finishing
treatments to improve the appearance or durability of jersey fabric.

Applications

Textile manufacturers primarily use jersey fabric to make casual, lightweight garments like T-
shirts and underwear. There are quite a few different types of jersey fabric, however, and
manufacturers might use certain types of jersey for more heavy-duty applications. Jersey is
also a popular choice for athletic wear. While sports uniforms most commonly feature
synthetic fibers these days, many athletic shirts, tank tops, and shorts feature jersey knits.
Applications of jersey fabric mainly remain limited to apparel, but one notable non-apparel
example of a jersey fabric application is bedding. Due to its tight-knit softness, textile
manufacturers commonly use jersey fabric to make bed sheets, pillowcases, and even
blankets.
Rib knit
Rib knit is a type of knit fabric created using two needles that has vertical textured
lines. The vertical ribs are created with a certain number of knit stitches (more
prominent) and a certain number of purl stitches (the groove between the ribs),
repeated multiple times along the width of the fabric (which is usually made and
sold in circular pieces, without any selvedge). Depending on how many knits and
purls, you can have different rib knit fabrics. A 2x2 rib knit will have a sequence of
two knits and two purls.

Ribbed knits have wales or vertical rows of stitches that form ribs on both the face
and the back of the fabric making both sides appear the same. Ribbed knit are
usually 100% cotton, but can also come with spandex and other fiber blends, and
have a natural stretch that make them very useful for cuffs, bands, and necklines.
Rib knits are also popular for use in infant wear and tops and dresses.
Characterstics

more stretch crosswise than lengthwise

it usually recovers pretty well after being stretched.

more elastic then jersey knits

double face or reversible

thicker and heavier

It's stiffer than jersey and less smooth

lies flat without curl

It is form fitting, perfectly hugs the body

Applications
Since Rib knit fabric is more stretchy crosswise and lies flat on one side, this fabric is perfect for making
turtleneck clothes, bottom edges of sweaters, cuffs, and necklines on clothes. It is also excellent in making
mats including rugs and other home furnishings.
Purl knit
Purl Knit Fabric is made by knitting yarn as alternate knit and purl stitch in one
wale of the fabric. The Purl Knit fabric has alternate courses of knit stitch and
purl stitch. The fabric is reversible and identical on the face and back sides of
the fabric. The fabric does not curl and lies flat. It is more stretchable in length
direction. The production speed is generally slow with Purl knits.Therefore, the
cost of kg of the purl knit fabric is the highest among all the knitted fabrics.In
the purl stitch, loops are drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both
sides, has the appearance of the back of a plain stitch fabric.
Characterstics

Alternative courses are made of all face loops and all back loops. each wale is made of face loop
and back loop in an alternative order

Fabric has horizontal corrugation or rib appearance on the surfaces, i.e. opposite to rib fabric.

Fabric is reversible in appearance and has soft handle.

Fabric has very high extensibility in length direction, making it suitable for kidswear.

Fabric does not curl at the edges because of alternate face and back loop courses.

fabric thickness is theoretically double to that of a plain knit.

Applications
Purl Knit Fabric is the best alternative to knitwear production. Using a purl knit fabric in your
production would avoid the price and overwhelmed demand problems in knitwear production.
Purl Knit Fabrics look the same on both sides of the fabric. Many attractive patterns and designs
can be created with the purl stitch. It is often used in the manufacture of bulky sweaters,
cardigans, pullovers and children’s clothing.
Interlock knit
Interlock knit fabric is a variation of rib knit. Rib knit is a type of
fabric knitted with rows that alternate between being raised and
lowered. But instead of having just one row of stitches, interlock
knit fabric has two rows of stitches.

The rows of stitches are created one behind the other, using two
rows of needles that cross over each other to construct it. Because
of the two rows, interlock knit fabric is known as a double knit
fabric. The rows become “interlocked” as the fabric is knitted. The
interlocked, double rows also create a fabric that is thicker than
regular knit fabric.
Characterstics

easy to work with and comfortable to wear.

It is extremely soft, firm, and absorbent making it ideal for activewear.

interlocks have a great amount of stretch, but the fabric has a good recovery. interlock knit
fabric will return to its original shape after it has been stretched out.

interlock knit prevents runs and will not unravel or curl at the edges.

Applications
Due to the characteristics of interlock knit fabric, it can be used for many different types of clothing.
The fabric is ideal for all temperatures and can be used to make casual or more formal clothing.
Absorbency, thickness, comfort, and softness are factors in determining what interlock knit fabric is
used for. Interlock knit fabric is a popular choice for underwear and pajamas due to its
breathability. It is used for baby clothing due to its softness, hoodies due to its warmth, and t-shirts
and dresses due to its comfort. The absorbency, breathability, and natural stretch also make
interlock knit one of the best fabric choices for sportswear.
Raschel knit
Raschel Knit Fabric is a type of Warp knitted fabrics, which are made in a special knitting
machine with yarns from warp beam. The face side of the fabric has slightly inclined vertical
knitting loops whereas the backside of the fabric has inclined horizontal floats. They do not
ravel.Raschel knits have a lacelike, open construction, with a heavy, textured yarn held in
place by a much finer yarn. Raschels can be made in a variety of types, ranging from fragile to
coarse, and usually have limited stretch. Raschel knitting machines produce both flat and
tubular warp knit fabrics that resemble crochet and lace fabrics. Raschel knit material can
contain inlaid yarns in addition to the vertical rows of stitches. The fabrics are similar to
tricot knitting but more open and with a coarser texture. Warp knit fabrics have greater
dimensional stability than weft knit materials and are less likely to sag, nor do they ravel as
easily.

Usage:
Raschel knit fabrics are produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights
and types. Most raschel knits can be identified by their intricate designs, the open-
space look of crochet or lace, and an almost three-dimensional surface effect
design. They are mostly used in sportswear and athleticwear. Raschel Knit Fabric
has good draping qualities and is frequently used as an unlined material for coats,
lingerie and dresses.
Tricot knit
Tricot fabric has a unique zigzag weave that is textured on one side and smooth on the
other. This allows the fabric to be soft and also very sturdy for activewear. Tricot fabrics
are produced on a flatbed knitting machine, as opposed to a circular knitting machine.
They have an excellent wrinkle and run resistance, as well as good drape-ability. Tricot is a
warp-knit fabric. This means it has continuous lengthwise columns of loops. Warp knitting
differs from weft knitting by having each needle loop its own thread. The needles produce
parallel rows of loops. These lengthwise loops are what give this fabric a smooth surface
on the face and a textured back. This structure creates ribs on the front and crosswise ribs
on the back. This makes the tricot both soft and an incredibly durable knit structure.

tricots have a sturdy and enjoyable handle. Tricot fabrics can stand up to a good level of
day-to-day wear and tear during any activity. This makes it an ideal fabric for close-fitting
comfort stretch apparel, such as swimwear, sportswear, lingerie, and even some
outerwear types.
Intarsia
Intarsia knitting is a knitting technique that uses multiple
colors of yarn to create knitted pictures or multicolored
patterns. In intarsia there is only one "active" colour on any
given stitch, and yarn is not carried across the back of the work;
when a colour changes on a given row, the old yarn is left
hanging. This means that any intarsia piece is topologically
several disjoint columns of colour; a simple blue circle on a
white background involves one column of blue and two of
white—one for the left and one for the right. Intarsia is most
often worked flat, rather than in the round. However, it is
possible to knit intarsia in circular knitting using particular
techniques.
 Application
The Intarsia technique is often used for
sweaters with large, solid-colour features
or ‘picture jumpers’ with designs such as
fruits, flowers, geometric shapes or
Christmas motifs like snowmen and
robins. Argyle socks and sweaters are
normally done in intarsia.
Jacquard Jersey
Jacquard Knit fabrics are single jersey fabrics made of Circular
Knitting machines using Jacquard mechanism. Jacquard Knit
Fabrics are the simplest method of making patterned fabrics.
They are produced with interesting patterns, which may have
any of the following: Combinations of stitches or combinations
of yarn types in terms of color textures etc. Jacquard Knit
fabrics have different colored loops made of different threads
in the same course. Floats are an inherent feature of single
jersey jacquards.
Jacquard clothing is durable and strong, with a structured and
wrinkle-resistant feel that is perfect for everyday wear.
 Application
Jacquard Knit Fabrics are widely used in
the Ladieswear industry. Jacquard Knit
fabrics are suitable for tops, skirts,
dresses, sturdy leggings and cardigans.
Jacquard Knit fabrics are thicker than
most knits and are perfect for creating
structured tops, jackets, skirts, and
dresses.
Terry Knitted Fabrics
Terry Knitted Fabric is piled jersey fabric made with a special
attachment in regular circular knitting machines similar to
woven fabrics. The Terry Knitted fabric has loops on the fabric
surface. French terry is a knit fabric similar to jersey, with loops
on one side and soft piles of yarn on the other. This knit results
in a soft, plush texture you’ll recognize from your comfiest
sweatshirts and other kinds of loungewear. French terry is
midweight—lighter than cold-weather sweatpants but heavier
than your typical tee.
Characterstics
Terry knitted fabric is softer, more flexible and is more comfortable than woven
terry fabrics. Terry knitted Fabric feels soft, with good extension, elasticity,
wrinkle resistance and moisture absorption. It has also excellent heat
retentionTerry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water
absorption and heat retention.

Applications
French terry is commonly used in sweatpants and sweatshirts, where the soft piles of
yarn are on the inside of the fabric where the material touches the body, and the
smoother side of the fabric is on the outside of the garment. The comfortable, plush,
soft texture created by french terry perfectly suits loungewear basics like sweatpants
and cozy sweatshirts. As a midweight fabric, french terrier has a heavier weight than
the material used to make most t-shirts, but it is lighter than the fabrics that would be
used to make sweatpants or joggers suitable for cold weather. The fabric is highly
versatile and can keep you cool in warmer weather or warm in cooler weather. Owing
to its softness and absorbency, it is widely used in beachwear, towels, bathrobes etc.
French terry is a versatile fabric that you’ll find in casual clothing like sweatpants,
hoodies, pullovers, and shorts. French terry clothes are great to lounge in, or wear
over your workout clothes if you’re heading to the gym.
Knitted Velour
During the knitting process of velour knitted fabric, the
yarns are knitted into loops to make a pile weave, and
then the small loops are sheared evenly and brushed. It
combines the stretchy properties of knits with the rich
appearance and feel of velvet Velour fabric is a velvety
knit fabric with a short, clipped pile face, and a smooth
back side. Velour is typically made from cotton or
cotton, and can even be made from synthetics such as
polyester. Velour became the fabric of a generation in
the 1960s and 70s, as almost a rebellion against the
fashion and societal constructs of the time. Being soft,
comfortable and colourful, it was almost the polar
opposite of the tailored, well put together clothing that
was on trend for both women and men.
Characterstics
Knitted, so it is stretchy
Warm
Comfortable, casual
Very soft
Luxurious look
Soft drape
Sheen to the fabric
Machine washable

Applications

Velour Knitted Fabric is luxurious and was the power fabric

of the 70’s. Despite its luxurious finish, velour knitted fabric
is typically made from cotton or can even be made from
synthetics such as polyester. They are used in luxurious
apparels like jackets, leggings, dresses etc.
Sliver Knit
Sliver Knit Fabric is made by circular knitting machines in
which the face fibers imitating fur are attached to the fabric, by
means of knitting sliver along with base yarn making the
fabric. Sliver knit fabrics have longer and denser piles on the
fabric surface than other pile jerseys. Printed sliver knit fabrics
are popularly used as imitation fur fabrics. They are more
popular than real fur as first of all we would not harm any
animals and also they are light, more stretchable and do not
require special care for storage. A sliver loop knit fabric
comprising a base fabric formed of knitted courses and wales
and anchoring a plurality of tufts of sliver fibers, the free ends
of which are incorporated into at least two courses and two
wales of the fabric to provide a generally loop pile fabric.
Applications
Sliver Knit Fabrics are widely used in making jackets and
coats. Sliver Knit fabrics are used in a number of different
products, from blankets and saddle pads to the fabric for
mascots and stuffed animals. Fur Vests, Jackets, Coats,
Blankets, Footwear
Fleece Knit
Fleece knit fabric is a man-made product, which has been named after the ‘fleece’
coat on a sheep, it’s 100% synthetic and derived from petroleum rather than a
fluffy sheep’s coat – despite being fuzzy to the touch. The super soft, warm and
breathable nature of this magic Fleece Knit fabric makes it perfect for outerwear
and all things cosy.

The addition of cotton or other fibers as well as differences in manufacturing

techniques can produce a wide variety of fleece fabrics, making it easy for a
designer to source the ideal fleece fabric for a product. The qualities of this
fabric, as well as its durable and water-resistant properties, making it an
incredibly versatile choice for producing a variety of clothing and household
items.

The fabric is soft-napped and known for it’s soft, felt–like or fuzzy texture.
Though much lighter than wool, polyester fleece fabric possesses a pile that
retains heat effectively and has a similar, wool-like warmth and softness. The
fleece tends to be anti-pilling, meaning that the fabric is less likely to develop
bobbles or bumps with wear over time.
Characterstics
Two sides brushed fleece: This feature contributes to the heat
retaining properties of the fabric. Both side brushed fleece provides
space for air pockets between threads.
Does not fray
Varying thicknesses availabl
Water resistance/waterproof: The polyester fibers that make up
synthetic fleece are inherently water resistant
Breathable
Lightweight
Machine washable
Holds its shape well

Application
As it is low maintenance and workable, fleece has surged in
popularity, and it is widely used in home sewing projects.

This knitted fabric has a broad range of uses including clothing,

such as jackets, sweaters, mittens, scarves and baby clothes. It can
also be used to create blankets cheaply and to line clothing. And it
is considered a good choice for a variety of pet bedding also. It is
the stand-in of choice for wool.
DEVELOPMENT
OF
KNIT
FINGER KNITTING

Finger knitting is a form of knitting where a knitted

cord is created using only hands and fingers, instead of
knitting needles or other traditional tools.

Though finger knitting may be performed by people of

all ages, it is cited as a teaching tool for children
because of its comparative simplicity in contrast to
traditional knitting.

It effectively demonstrates that knitting involves a

series of loops strung together. Finger knitting may
also be safely practiced on airplanes that prohibit
knitting needles
FINGER KNITTING PROCESS

FINGER KNITTING STEP -1

Slip the end of a ball of yarn between your thumb and index finger, pinching to anchor the yarn
as you knit. Then loop the yarn around your pinkie finger and weave it through your fingers.

FINGER KNITTING Step -2

Loop the yarn around your index finger completely, and weave it toward your pinkie

FINGER KNITTING Step -3

Make a full loop around your four fingers.

FINGER KNITTING Step -4

Slip the bottom (woven) row over the top (unwoven) row, from pinkie to index finger. Repeat steps two
through four as the knitted side flows down the back of your hand to the desired length. To cast off, cut
the yarn, leaving about a 10-inch tail. Pull the yarn through all four loops, then pull the loops off of your
fingers. Tie the tail to the closest loop and trim.
PEG KNITTING

It is a peg or thumb tack on the side of the knitting loom

The peg is used in two ways: 1)to wrap the anchor yarn around it when you
cast on. 2)To wrap the working yarn around it after e-wrapping a row.

The technique is to wrap the yarn around the spool's pegs. The yarn is then
lifted over, thereby creating stitches. This process is repeated continually
until the project is complete.

Homemade knitting spools are sometimes made by placing a peg-like

object, such as a nail, into a hard solid object, such as a block of wood.

it can be wound in a spiral to produce a mat or rug or, if a larger spool with
more nails is used, a sock or a hat could be made. Historically, spool knitting
has been used to make horse reins
HAND KNITTING NEEDLES

A knitting needle or knitting pin is a tool in hand-knitting to produce knitted fabrics. They generally
have a long shaft and taper at their end, but they are not nearly as sharp as sewing needles. Their
purpose is two-fold.
The long shaft holds the active (unsecured) stitches of the fabric, to prevent them from unravelling,
whereas the tapered ends are used to form new stitches
A new stitch is formed by inserting the tapered end through an active stitch, catching a loop (also
called a bight) of fresh yarn and drawing it through the stitch; this secures the initial stitch and forms
a new active stitch in its place.
In specialized forms of knitting the needle may be passed between active stitches being held on
another needle, or indeed between/through inactive stitches that have been knit previously.
The size of a needle is described first by its diameter and secondly by its length.
The size of the new stitch is determined in large part by the diameter of the knitting needle used to
form it, because that affects the length of the yarn-loop drawn through the previous stitch. Thus,
large stitches can be made with large needles, whereas fine knitting requires fine needles.
The knitting needles being used in hand-knitting are of the same diameter; however, in uneven
knitting, needles of different sizes may be used. Larger stitches may also be made by wrapping the
yarn more than once around the needles with every stitch.
The length of a needle determines how many stitches it can hold at once; for example, very large such
as a shawl with hundreds of stitches might require a longer needle than a small such as a scarf or
bootie. Various sizing systems for needles are in common use.
HAND KNITTING PROCESS

1. With your hand, make a loop over the needle, keeping your right index finger inside the
loop.
2. Make another loop with your left hand.
3. Pull the first loop over the second.
4. Tighten the resulting knot and begin again until you have all the stitches required.
 HAND KNITTING NEEDLE TYPES

1. SINGLE POINTED/STRAIGHT NEEDLE

2. DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLE
3. CIRCULAR NEEDLE
 Single pointed needle

1. The most widely recognized form of needle is the single-pointed

needle.
2. t is a slender, straight stick tapered to a point at one end, with a knob
at the other end to prevent stitches from slipping off.
3. Such needles are always used in pairs and are usually 10-16 inches
(25.4–40.6 cm) long but, due to the compressibility of knitted fabrics,
may be used to knit pieces significantly wider.
4. The knitting of new stitches occurs only at the tapered ends.
5. Fictional depictions of knitting in movies, television programs,
animation, and comic strips almost always show knitting done on
straight needles. Both Wallace and Gromit and Monty Python, for
example, show this type of knitting.
Double-pointed needles

1. The type of needle is the straight double-pointed needle. Double-

pointed needles are tapered at both ends, which allows them to be
knit from either end.
2. They are typically used (and sold) in sets of four and five, and are
commonly used for circular knitting.
3. Since the invention of the circular needle, they have been most
commonly used to knit smaller tube-shaped pieces such as sleeves,
collars, and socks.
4. Double-pointed needles are somewhat shorter than single-pointed or
circular needles, and are usually used in the 13–20 cm length range,
although they are also made longer.
Circular needles

Circulars are composed of two pointed, straight tips connected by a

flexible cable and may be used for both knitting flat or knitting in the
round.
The two tapered ends, typically 4–5 inches (10.5–13 cm) long, are rigid,
allowing for easy knitting, and are connected by the flexible strand
(usually made of nylon or coated wire).
The tips may be permanently connected to the cable and made in overall
lengths from 9 inches (23 cm) to 60 inches (150 cm) or composed of
cables and interchangeable tips.
This allows various lengths and diameters to be combined into many
different sizes of needles, allowing for a great variety of needs to be met
by a relatively few component pieces.
The ability to work from either end of one needle is convenient in several
types of knitting, such as slip-stitch versions of double knitting.
Construction of garments such as sweaters may be greatly simplified
when knitting ITR, since the finishing steps of sewing a back, two fronts,
and two sleeves of a sweater together may be almost entirely eliminated
in neck down ITR knitting.
MACHINES
USED
IN
KNITTING
WARP KNITTING

1. Warp knitting is defined as a loop forming process in which yarn is fed

into knitting zone , parallel to fabric selvedge .
2. In warp knitting , fabric is made by forming loops from yarns coming
in parallel sheet form run in the direction of fabric formation . ( warp
beam like in weaving )
3. So that warping process is essential for warp knitting .
4. Every needle is fed by a separate yarn for loop formation . In order to
connect the loops into a fabric , the yarns are shifted between the
needles .
5. All the yarns will be knitted in course simultaneously.
6. For the purpose of shifting yarn , guide will be used
WARP KNITTING MACHINE

Warp knitting machine is one kind of flat bed machine.

This machine produces the knitted loops in wales direction.
Warp knitting is done by knitting in a zigzag pattern along the fabric
area.
While weft knitting is done by knitting across the fabric, Warp
knitting is accomplished by running knits through adjacent wales or
columns.
TYPES OF WARP KNITTING MACHINE

1.Tricot Warp Knitting Machine

2. Raschel Warp Knitting Machine

Tricot Warp Knitting Machine

1. Initially only bearded needles were used .
2. Fine filaments are knitted .
3. Machine gauge up to 24 to 40( here gauge is number of needles
per inch)
4. Fabric is pulled at right angle to needle .
5. Sinker controlled fabric throughout the knitting cycle.
6. Low fabric take down tension.
7. Number of guide bars usually not more than four.
8. Machine speed is high ( up to 3500 courses per min )
9. Machines are wider and comparatively simple structures are
produced .
10. Warp beams are positioned at the back side of the machine .

Advantage
1. Versatile and high output machine.
2. Low maintenance.
3. Less working cost.
4. Possible to produce high elastic and very fine fabrics.

Application
1. Automotive textiles- Automotive seats, vehicle interior.
2. Apparel textiles- Outerwear
3. Sportswear
Raschel Warp Knitting Machine

Features :
1. initially latch needles are used .
2. More versatile – number of guide bars up to 16.
3. Suitable for outer wear and furnishing .
4. Any type of yarn can be used .
5. Fabric controlled by high take down tension .
6. Sinkers hold fabric only when the needles raise .
7. Fabric pulled at about 160 degree to needle . machines are made in coarser gauges 24 to 64
( here gauge is defined as number of needles per two inch )
8. Machines are narrower and comparatively lower speed ( up to 2000 courses per min )
9. Warp beams are positioned at the top of the machine .

Advantages :
1. Due to the simultaneous knit , production rate will be much more higher than the weft
knitting.
2. The yarn is in criss-cross form to the adjacent wale line , so that dimensional stability
will be much higher.
3. Elongation of the fabric will be less.

Applications :
1.Warp knitted fabric will be used for apparel ,fashion fabric and technical textiles.
 WEFT KNITTING

Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into fabrics.

Weft knitting is a method of forming a fabric in which the loops are
made in horizontal way from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops
take place in a circular or flat form on a crosswise basis.
In this method each weft thread is fed, more or less, at right-angle to
direction in which fabric is formed. Each course in a weft knit builds
upon the previous knitted course.
Most of the weft knitting is of tubular form. It is possible to knit with
only one thread or cone of yarn, though production demands have
resulted in circular weft knitting machines being manufactured with
upto192 threads (feeders).
WEFT KNITTING MACHINE
Weft Knitting Machines are used to make weft knitted
fabrics by just a single yarn.
Knitting in weft is a more common method than warp
knitting.
In Weft knitting, the looms are knitted horizontally in a
circular form from left to right of the fabric.
TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING MACHINE

1.Circular Knitting Machine

2. Straight Bar Knitting Machine

2. Flat Bar Knitting Machine

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Features
1. A detector exists on circular knitting machines which detects warps and wefts. It can
supervise behavior of warps or wefts in service real time. When wefts or warps break or
finish, detector can show the direction and stop the machine from operating
automatically.
2. 2. Tension on warps or wefts can be controlled by machines automatically. The surface of
woven bag is smooth and beautiful.
3. 3. Micro-electric control. Meters are counted automatically and shown by data.
4. 4. Intelligent ascension takes place of conventional mechanical dense gear variation of
wefts.
5. 5. The upper and lower tracks of shuttles in circular knitting machines are handled by
hard chromium plating, highly improving its abrasive resistance.
6. 6. Frequency conversion of machines is stable.
7. 7. Circular knitting machines have hyperbola cams, nylon slides and brown box sliders.
Oil pump outside machines force oil-bath for lubrication. Circular knitting machines
have less abrasion and low maintenance costs.

Advantage
1. Extremely high speeds at which it produces continuous lengths of fabric.
2. Cost-effective production method for bulk products

Application
1. Home Textile - carpets, towels, mats
2. Fashion Clothes -Polo-shirts, T-shirts, scarves, dresses
3. Sportswear - tops, sports pants, shorts, socks, swimwear, tights.
Straight Bar

Features
1. Straight bar frames is a specific type of machine having a vertical bar of bearded needles whose
movement is controlled by circular engineering cams attached to a revolving cam-shaft in the base of
the machine.
2. The length of the machine is divided into a number of knitting heads (sections or divisions) and each
head is capable of knitting a separate but identically-dimensioned fashion-shaped garment panel.
3. The needles press their beards against a fixed pressing edge; loop formation prior to intermeshing is
achieved by individually horizontally-moving loop-forming sinkers, and knock-over occurs when the
needles descend below the knock-over bits.
4. At either edge of each knitting head, a group of rackably-controlled points transfer loops to fashion
shape the garment panel at the selvedges by widening or narrowing the knitting width. On
completion of the garment panel, it is pressed-off the needles.

Advantage
1. High-quality garments as a result of the gentle knitting action
2. Low fabric tension and fashion shaping.
3. educes the waste of expensive yarn during cutting and is emphasized on the garments by
carefully-positioned fashion marks
 Flat Bar Knitting Machine
Features

1. Flat Bar Knitting machines are most suitable for flat or 3D

creations but is also applicable in creating tubular knits
like circular knitting machines.
2. In this type of fabric knitting machine, the needles are
arranged on a straight bar.
3. The mechanism follows a back and forth movement of the
carriage containing the yarn feeders through a horizontal
path.

Advantage
1. High stitch potential which includes needles selection on
one or both beds, needle-out designs, racked stitches,
tubular knitting, striping, loop transfer.
2. By making use of flat knitting machines, we can also
change the width of the knitting fabric.

Application
1. Collars
2. Arm bands
3. Sweaters
TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

1.Single Jersey Knitting Machine

2. Double Jersey Knitting Machine

Single jersey circular knitting machine

Features
1. The Single Jersey Circular knitting machine is a modern machine and has a simpler
design than the Rib Machine .
2. Also called Plain Circular Latch Needle Machine, it consists of a set of latch needle and
a set of the sinker.
3. Both revolve along different knitting cam systems that cause a calculated and accurate
up and down motion.
4. This mechanism also involves the movement of the yarn feeders that are placed at equal
intervals along the circumference of the knitting machine cylinder.

Application
1. Vest, T-shirt, Polo shirts
2. functional sportswear and underwear or seamless clothe
Double jersey circular knitted machine

Features
1. This type of circular knitting machine has two forms, known as Rib
Machine or Interlock Machine.
2. In the Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine, two sets of needles
are contained in the machine.
3. The cylinder has one set and the dial has the other set of the needle.
The dial and cylinder needles are arranged in a perpendicular
manner.
4. Cylinder cams and Dial cams are two different set of cams takes
control of the knitting action. This arrangement can either be
interlocked or ribbed while producing the fabric.

Application
1. Sportswear, underwear, leisurewear
Knitwear Production Globally
GERMANY

Germany is one of the biggest exporters of knitted apparel, manmade fibre,

synthetic yarn, and machinery with the export value of $38.99 Bn. The
country is also world’s 2nd largest textile exporter and well known for high
quality products and accessories of textile and clothing in the world. Over
recent decades, the country has transformed its production for low-cost high
volume to high quality products.

China

China leads growth of the knitted fabrics market in the APEJ region with a
whopping 61% share in the global sales of knitted fabrics. China is one of the
top clothing exporters in the world, as it accounts for over one-third of the
EU’s apparel and textile imports. Domestic manufacturers in China are
rapidly transforming their manufacturing strategies with digitalization and
automation to bolster their sales of high-quality knitting fabrics worldwide.
Others

One of the most important countries in the production

and export of knitted fabrics has been Italy with exports
up to 99 million dollars. Some others are: Bulgaria,
Belarus, Turkey and Egypt.

Developing countries in Asia-Pacific other than China are

foraying into the knitted fabrics market with the rapidly
escalating knitwear industry in India and Bangladesh.
Knitwear Production in India
History

Indian knitwear industry is more than a century old.

Calcutta, the cultural capital of India, and the commercial
capital of East India owns the credit of giving verve to this
industry. The initiative started with a small hosiery unit,
which later grew multi-fold during the years

Currently, Indian knitwear makes a significant contribution

to the countrys economy, and employment. Several other
units support this sector by making relative products.
Current Scenario

Ludhiana in Punjab, Tirupur in Tamil Nadu, Delhi,

Bangalore, and Mumbai are the important knitwear
centres. Almost 100 different types of wool are
manufactured in Rajasthan, popular varieties being
joria, magna, chokla, jaisalmer etc. These varieties are
blended with other relevant fibres. With the advent of
ideas from international designers, domestic industry
is flooded with fashionable knitted apparels.

Initially Ludhiana and Calcutta were the main

production centres. Currently Tirupur has developed
into a major production centre exporting
approximately ` 850 crore worth of knitted apparels.
This is almost 40% of the total knitted apparel exports
from India.
Knitting Manufacturers in India
Tirupur Knitwears Exports Pvt. Ltd is one of the leading
knitted garment manufacturers and exporters from Tirupur,
India. They currently supply garments to buying houses, few
retail brands, online portals, wholesalers & more than 100
corporate clients across India with different types of apparel.

JM Knitwear is a private Flat-bed Knitwear manufacturing

company based in Navsari, Gujarat, India a convenient 3.5
hours drive from Mumbai offering retailers & buyers a place
to meet all their knitwear specifications. We are leading
sweater manufacturer, cardigan manufacturer, pullover
manufacturer, jumpers manufacturer and Christmas jumpers
manufacturer.
Ocean Knit Fab stepped into manufacturing of knitted
fabrics in 1996. Having started business as a Knitting
house, they have now become a major supplier of knitted
fabrics to exporters & national & international brands.
Located in Ludhiana the city for national and
international commercial activities especially in Fabrics &
Apparels, they manufacture and export Cotton Knitted
Fabrics, Lycra Fabrics, Designer Knitted Fabrics, Double
Jersey Knitted Fabrics, Fleece Fabrics, High Pile Exporter,
Jacquard Fabrics, Knitted Fabrics etc.

Niomoda Clothing Pvt Ltd ( Formerly Sona

Emporium Pvt Ltd) is in the line of manufacturing
garments since last 2 decades. They are classified as a
private limited company and are located in Kolkata, West
Bengal. The company focuses on knitwear for babies and
kids between the age group 0-14 years. The product
assortment includes t-shirts, combo sets, pants, tops, and
loungewear for the specified age group.
Reference
http://bosforustextile.com/knitted_fabrics.html
https://thefabricofourlives.com/cotton-fabrics/jersey