The Pastry Chef's Apprentice
The Pastry Chef's Apprentice
The Pastry Chef's Apprentice
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INTRODUCTION
Pastries punctuate the stories of our lives. HERO WORSHIP
They become reference points for special Each of the pastry chefs profiled here
moments. We cherish those memories, and was generous in sharing his or her time,
those treats become the gold standard by knowledge, philosophy, and experience.
which all other pastries are compared. We They have sacrificed traditional work
chase those memories, returning to baker- schedules and/or time with their families
ies, fairs, and markets hoping to recapture to provide pleasure and memories to
those precious moments; we contact people whom they will never meet' They
friends, neighbors, and cousins in an effort go to work long before sunrise working on
to dig up the recipes so we can relive those their feei al I daY.
moments. Library and lnternet searches
provide clues that tease and taunt, yielding They are historians, teachers, and mentors
products that come close but never match linking the past to the future. They nurture
the memory. The memories loom on the ho- young, aspiring pastry chefs; they are
rizon; their elusive nature is strong enough involved in their communities and profes-
to keep us searching for a lifetime' sional organizations.
My family had dessert every night after din- Pastry chefs dedicate their lives to master-
ner. Except for some of my mother's baked ing a trade, a craft, and an ad form, and
goods, our nightly desserts were from along the way they give us extraordinary
the bakery. To this day, no evening meal gifts. This story unfolds daily in large and
feels complete without some soñ of sweet small shops around the world. Quite often,
treat at the end, whether it is the corner the only praise or accolades many pastry
of a chocolate bar, half a cookie, or a fully chefs receive is second hand-many pastry
plated creation. chefs work hidden from view.
?aatrtl ehelq ded¡cate the¡r l¡vea
to uagterínd a trade, a ualt and
an art lorn, and along the watl
thetl ¡ve us ¿xtraord¡ndrq il1t4.
BRINGING IT HOME
ln a way, home baking enthusiasts are
no different. They rise early, work in hot,
cramped kitchens, scrub pots, wash coun-
tertops, purchase expensive i ngred ients,
buy the latest cookbooks, and fret over the
details with the same fervent obsession as
the professionals. And they do it to bring
pleasure, comfort, and joy to their fam-
ily, friends, neighbors, and colleagues. lt
may not be possible for you to have a fully
stocked professional kitchen, but it is pos-
sible to learn the properties and character-
istics of ingredients and to understand the
principles and techniques of production.
CHAPTER 1:
THE INGREDIENTS
Almost every pastry combines flour, butter, Speaking with the august group of pastry
sugar, eggs, and salt. Frequently, other chefs featured in this book, I heard four
ingredients, including chocolate, nuts, recurring themes:
spices, fruit, extracts, and especiallyva- . Use the best ingredients.
nilla, are added to enhance the basic . Respect the fundamentals.
flavors. An easy way to elevate your pastries . Document your results.
is to use the most appropriate and the . Practrce, practice, practice.
highest quality ingredients available for
any particu lar process. Of course, practice is the most fun part
of this equation-more so when you are
Familiarity with the properties and able to troubleshoot and solve problems.
characteristics of ingredients used in pastry (However, it is even more fun to avoid them
making allows pastry chefs to create classic in the first placel) Ingredient selection
pastries using traditional ingredients and and sourcing will become easier as you
techniques to achieve consistent results. learn the manner in which they influence
An understanding of the ingredients affords results. Then you'll be able to fix problems
pastry chefs the abi I ity to create i nterpreta- when they arise and manipulate recipes
tions of the same trad itional pastries. Re- without compromising the integrity of the
interpreting and personal izing traditional formulation. So let's start talking about the
pastries is one of the markers distinguish- ingredients you'll use most often.
ing pastry chefs from pastry cooks.
Proleín number4 cdn be Mi4leddínl.
The 4ualítt1 ol the prlteín í4 luzre
ínportanf than the 7uqnfítrl.
FLOUR
Flour is the logical choice to begin the
study of pastry ingredients, since it is
found in all baked pastries. lt is milled
from wheat kernels to provide a variety of is no gluten in flour, only the gluten-form-
strengths, particle sizes, and other charac- ing proteins. When you add water to wheat
teristics. flour and agitate or mix them, gluten is
formed. When dough is properly developed,
Pastries that include f lour are typically a web of gluten permits the dough to be
leavened by physical, chemical, or bio- shaped and expand during rising and/
logical means (more on this on page 15). or baking (extensibility), yet controls the
Only wheat flour possesses the quality expansion and maintains the desired shape
gluten-forming proteins necessary to trap (elasticity).
these leavening agents. Flours from other
grains-such as rice, corn, oats, rye, and CLASSES OF WHEAT
buckwheat-contri bute to the character- There are six classes of wheat among tens
istics associaied with regional and ethnic of thousands of varieties: hard red winter,
pastries; however, they are typlcally com- hard white winter, hard red spring, soft
bined with wheat flour so that the pastries red winter, soft white, and durum.fhese
will have the gluten they need to be light, classes denote which part of the year the
tender, and uniform. wheat is planted, the color of the grain, and
the hardness of the grain. Soil conditions
Wheat kernels are seeds necessary for the and climate affect the quality of the gluten-
perpetuation of the plant species. They forming proteins.
contain the vital nutrients forthe nascent
stages of the next plant and are made up Hard wheat left in the ground during winter
of three parts: the bran, the germ, and the absorbs abundant amounts of nitrogen,
endosperm. Bran is the protective outer resulting in flour with high-quality proteins
coating, rich in minerals, cellulose, and required for bread production. Too much Durum has a substantial amount of
fiber. The germ has an abundant supply moisture in the form of rain or snow dilutes protein; however, the balance of glutenin
of enzymes used to convert starches into the nitrogen content, and too little moisture and gliadin is skewed, resulting in more
simple sugars (useful for fermentation), creates a nitrogen deficit, adversely affect- extensibility and less elasticity, making it
fats, and vitamins. lt is the embryo of the ing the proteins. better for pasta than pastry. lt is used to
next plant. The endosperm is the largest make bread, but in conjunction with other
part of the kernel and is made of starches, Because of its pale color and shorter, more types of wheat f lour.
proteins, and carbohydrates. easily broken gluten, soft white flour works
well for making cakes and pastries. Pastry Protein Levels in Flour
There are other components in f lour, such flour is milled from soft red winter and/or North American millers use protein content
as fats and moisture; however, in pastry soft white f lour, and it is ideal for tart crust, as a specification. European millers use
making, the main considerations are the cookies, pie dough and the like. Cake flour, the ash content of the flour, an indication
quality and amount of starches and pro- milled from soft red wheat, is bleached of the mineral content. For example, in
teins. Starches absorb Iiquids and provide white and is ground and sifted to a finer France, many bread bakers use Type 55
structure to baked goods. There are two consistency than bread and pastry flours, or Type 65 f lour for bread making. That
gluten-forming proteins in wheat f lour: which allows it to better absorb liquids and means that the ash content is 0.55 or
glutenin and gliadin. Glutenin provides sugars. lt is also softerthan pastryflour, 0.65 percent. The higher the number, the
strength, elasticity, and gas-trapping prop- helping it impart the characteristic light- higherthe ash content, indicatingthat less
erties to dough. Gliadin provides extensibil- ness and tenderness associated with cakes. of the bran and germ (where the minerals
ity (the ability to stretch). Technically, there are found) were discarded during milling.
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Protein numbers can be misleading.
The quality of the protein is more important
than the quantity. For example, preschool- Whole wheat r4-r5"/"
ers use drops of white glue to hold pieces of High gluten r4%
paper in place; carpenters use an indus- 1 )O/
Durum
trial glue to hold their work together. But
a gallon of the white glue would not hold
Bread rI-12.5%
something together that a few drops of the Pastry 8-10%
industrial glue would. Cake 7-8.5%
,r
.-iá¡i-
has a melting point of 112"F (44.4"C). lt is of dough. As the pastry bakes, the water in
not as good for creaming. the dough leavens the product, and the fat
keeps the layers f rom merging.
All the recipes in this book call for unsalted o Leavening: Air is incorporated into fats
European-style butter. American butter during the manufacturing process. Highly
is 80 percent butterfat; European style emulsified fats created for high-ratio cakes,
is 82 percent. lt is most pliable at 60 to such as shorienings formulated specifi-
70"F (15.5" to 21.1'C). lt is soft at 80'F cally for cakes and icings, contain up to
(26.6'C), and it has a melting point of 10 percent air. These and other fats trap
88"F (31.1'C) with a final melting point additional air during the creaming process.
of 94'F (34.4"C). lt is the only fat that will Carbon dioxide and steam collect in the air
melt in the mouth, creating a clean "finish" cells created during creaming and allow
or luxurious mouthfeel. Butterflavorings the product to expand.
have been developed in laboratories and . Body and texture: lcings, frostings, and
added to other fats, but no other fat can fillings benefit from the use of solid fats,
match the complex f lavor and mouthfeel of most notably butter.
Steam isgenerated from the evaporation of Double-acting baking powder is made from
LEAVENING moisture in certain doughs and batters. At one slow-acting and one fast-acting acid in-
2I2"F (IOO"C), water converts to vapor and gredient, bakingsoda, and afillerstarch to
AGENTS expands up to 1,600 times in volume. The
rapid expansion leavens products such as
keep the baking soda and acids separated,
preventing premature release of the carbon
Baked pastries are leavened by introduc-
ing one or more gasses into the dough or páte á choux (used to make cream puffs, dioxide. lt also absorbs moisture that may
batter, creating products that are light and éclairs, etc.) and puff pastry (palmiers, have been incorporated during manufac-
more easily chewed, are more digestible
jalousies, etc.). turing or from the environment. (Always
and palatable, and have greatervolume. keep baking powder tightly covered.) After
Leavening agents are categorized as physi- CHEMICAL LEAVENING AGENTS mixing, 20 to 30 percent of the carbon
cal, chemical, and biological. There are two main chemical leavening dioxide is released at room temperature,
agents: baking soda, also known as sodium leaving 70 to 80 percent to be released in
PHYSICAL LEAVENING AGENTS bicarbonate, and baking powder. When you the oven, giving it good "bench tolerance,"
Air and steam leaven baked goods by physi- combine baking soda with moisture and an orthe abilityto withstand the rigors of pro-
cal means. Air is incorporated into mixtures acid, it generates carbon dioxide. Baking duction and delays in production without
soda has twice the gassing power of baking any discernable damage. When exposed to
by creaming plastic fats and crystalline
sugar. The sharp edges of the sugar cut into powder. lt is alkaline, with a pH of 8.4 to heat in the oven, the generated gas seeps
the fat, trapping air in newly formed cells. 8.9, and when heated without an acid, it into air cells and is trapped by the coagula-
It is in these cells that steam and/or carbon generates carbon dioxide and sodium car- tion of gluten and other proteins (such as
dioxide will collect and expand when bonate, which combines with the fatty ac- eggwhite) in the recipe.
heated. Products made with the creaming ids in the recipe to produce a soapy taste.
process include quick breads, cookies, and Since baked products brown betterwhen BIOLOGICAL LEAVENING AGENT
cakes. Another method of incorporating air they're alkaline, baking soda promotes Yeast is used to leaven breads and pastries.
is through the use of egg foams. Whipping
good crust and crumb color and may be ln an environment of warmth, moisture,
whole egg, egg yolk, or egg white with crys- used in conjunction with baking powder to and an abundant food source, it produces
talline sugar creates a stable foam of air adjust a recipe's alkalinity for this purpose. carbon dioxide, which leavens baked
cells that will expand when heated, as well Baking soda also has a weakening effect goods. None of the pastries chosen for th is
as trapping gasses that will expand when on proteins. This contributes to spread in book are leavened with yeast, so we wi ll not
heated. Products made by whipping eggs cookies, which contain proteins in eggs spend a lot of time discussing it.
with crystalline sugar include ladyfingers, and flour.
angel food cake, and genoise.
The most widely used type of baking pow-
der used by professionals and home bakers
is double acting. Double-acting baking
powder has a neutral pH of 7. Baked goods
made with baking powder will generally
have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 (see chad above).
tlnderefandin¡ the conpoeition ol
inyedienta leadq lo a yedler
underqtandí ng ol their czntrí butizn4
fo the t¡nal product
DAIRY
PRODUCTS
All the recipes in this book that require Whole milk is an emulsion of tiny fat glob- FERMENTED DAIRY PRODUCTS
milk were made with whole milk. Pastry ules in a water solution of protein, sugar, Buttermilk, sour cream, yogurt, and créme
chefs have many forms of dairy from which and mineral salts. lts composition varies fraiche are dairy products that have been
to choose: buttermilk, whipping cream' with the breed of cow food available to the acidified by the use of bacteria. Fermented
heavy cream, yogurt, sour cream, créme cow, time of day for milking, and geographic dairy products are common in chemically
fraTche, and, of course, butter. They all location. Fat and protein quality are the leavened products such as scones, bis-
originate with dairy cows. Some chefs most susceptible to variation. Whole milk cuits, muffins, and cakes, among others.
use goat's milk to create different f lavor is preferred over skim and low-fat milks for Quite often the ingredient is used in the
profiles. pastry making due to its physical makeup. name of the product, such as sour cream
Products made with whole milk will have coffee cake or buttermilk biscuits, due
Their functions in baked goods are a more pronounced f lavor, crust color, and to the characteristics they impart to the
. Flavor: Most dairy products are character- nutritional value, and they will be more product. The functions of these products in
ized as having a tangy flavor. Fermented tender and have greater keeping qualities. baked goods are:
dairy products (buttermilk, sour cream,
créme fraiche, yogurt, and so on), have a Most milk is pasteurized. Pasteurization . A distinctive tangy, and sometimes sour,
more distinctively sour, or tangt, f lavor. is a process used to kill harmful bacteria. flavor
¡ Crust color: Lactose, or milk sugar, is Unfortunately, all beneficial bacteria are . lncreased shelf life by lowering the pH
not fermentable by yeast, which means also destroyed in the process. Milk is also . An increasing in the gassing power of
that when milk or milk sugars are used in homogenized, which prevents the separa- products leavened with baking soda
yeasted dough, more sugars are available tion of the fat and water. M i lk is wh iter as
for crust coloration. a result, and the f lavor may be blander.
o Nutritional value: Dairy products contain There is a growing movement toward the
protein, fat, sugar, and minerals. lncor- consumption of raw milk. At this time, the
porating dairy products in a recipe adds only means to legally purchase raw milk is
nutritional value. to purchase it at the site of production; it is
. Tenderizing: The fat in dairy products, not sold in stores.
like other fats, inhibits gluten formation
and lubricates gluten that is able to form. Heavy cream is used as a liquid ingredient
in baking products such as quiche, créme
brülée, and other custards. More often it is
whipped and folded into mousses, Bavar-
ian creams, and similar products. lt may be
sweetened and flavored as a stand-alone
component, such as créme Chantilly (see
opposite page). Heavy cream with a fat
content of 40 percent is ideal for whip-
ping. Most heavy cream available in the
marketplace is 36 to 40 percent fat. When
cream is whipped, air is incorporated. Fat
globules link together and surround the air
cells, creating a stable foam.
EGGS .
An egg minus its shell is approximately Moisture: Eggs are approximately 78
55 percent wh ite and 45 percent yolk. ln percent water (the remaining 22 percent is
North America, large eggs average I.76 solids), which enhances keeping qualities.
ounces (50 g). . Color, richness, and flavor: Products
made with whole eggs or egg yolks have a
Functions of eggs in baked goods: more golden interior, a more browned crust
. Tenderizing: Egg yolks are approximately or shell, and, depending on how much egg
50 percent moisture and 50 percent solids, is incorporated into the recipe, a distinctive
which includes 33 percent fat. The fat in "eggy" flavor.
egg yolks functions the same as other fats
¡ Crust color: Whole egg and water beaten
in lubricating gluten strands and keeping together provide a golden shine when
gluten at a minimum. brushed on the surface of products prior to
¡ Structure: Albumen (egg white) protein baking; whole egg, yolk, and water beaten
and the small amount of protein found in together add a luster to the golden shine.
the yolk coagulate when heated.
¡ Leavening: When eggs are whipped with All recipes in this book use hen eggs. They
crystalline sugar, air cells form. should be as fresh as possible. Due to the
. Emulsification: The lecithin found in egg high risk of salmonella, eggs should be
yolks assists in emulsifying doughs, batters, handled with care. lnspectthem before
and creams. purchasing and do not use eggs with
. Nutritional value: Eggs are a good source damaged shells. Store in a refrigeraior and
of protein and minerals. break eggs directly before using to prevent
excessive decomposition. Wash your
hands, equipment, and smallwares after
contact with raw eggs.
Shel I Porous protective layer Eggs are most easily incorporated into
Albumen (white) 87-88% water; 12-13% protein other ingredients when they are at room
50% water; fat, lipoproteins, lecithin temperature. lt is best to remove eggs from
Yolk
the refrigerator one or two hours prior to
Air cell* Empty space at the wide end of the egg
use. Or you can remove them right before
Chalazae Cord that keeps yolk suspended use and submerge them in warm water
-A small air cell indicates a fresher egg. Egg shells are porous; gas (oxygen) and moisture untilthey are at room temperature.
can pass through the shell. An egg loses moisture over time, and as moisture leaves the
shell over time, the air cell gets larger.
OTHER FLAVORINGS Compounds, made with natural, artificial,
Essential oils, extracts, emulsions, and or a combination of the two flavors, are
compounds are available in natural and ar- available in f ru it and other f lavors. They are
tificial forms. While naturalflavorings may viscous solutions of flavorings and/or fruit
not be as uniform as artificial, they provide pulp, sugar, and stabilizers used to flavor
a truer f lavor. They are less stable due to unbaked items such as Bavarian creams,
the evaporation and oxidization of some of pastry cream, whipped cream, mousses,
FLAVORINGS the components. and icings. Compounds are available in
Scientists and chefs recognize four tastes: popular f lavors such as mojito, tiramisu,
sweet, salty, sour, and bitter; and they Essential oils, also known as essences, are piña colada, etc. Compounds make it
dispute the existence of a fifth: umami. Yet derived from fruits and plants and are highly
possible to make several f lavors of creamy
we are able to discern thousands of f lavors. volatile and aromatic. Stable oils such as f illings from one batch. For example, a
It is estimated that f lavor is 80 percent clove and peppermint may be extracted by pastry chef could make a single batch of
aroma and 20 percenttaste. Orthonasal steam distillation. Fruits with soft rinds are buttercream and flavor one portion of it
receptors alert us to the baking cinnamon hand-pressed to extract their compounds. with Kirschwasser for the Black Forest
rolls or apple pie next door or the orange Ether and alcohol solvents are used to torte, f lavor another portion with mocha for
being peeled behind us. They send signals extract other essential oi ls. Essential oi ls another project, and yet another portion
to the brain as to the experience we can are more potent than extracts and should with another flavor of choice.
expect when consuming a certain product. be used according the manufacturer's
Retronasal passages in the sinus and throat recommendations. Essential oils are more
transmit the remainder of the information consistent throughout the seasons and
to the brain so that we may make distinc- the years than fresh fruit. Orange oil and
tions between d ifferent foods, even those lemon oil would be acceptable to use when
closely related, such as oranges, tanger- recipes call for orange or lemon zest, such
ines, tangelos, and clementines. as pain d'epices(see page 41) or biscotti
(see page 32).
SALT
Salt, the organic compound of sodium and Extracts are alcoholic solutions of flavoring
chlorine, is indispensible to life. A case compounds, such as vanilla extract. The
could be made that it is equally indispen- flavor is typically between 2 to 8 percent
sible in baking bread and pastry. lt has essential oil. Extracts are available in
a neutral pH of 7, permitting its use in natural and artificial forms and sometimes
almost all preparations. lt harmonizes, en- as a combination of the two. There are
hances, and intensifiesflavors. ln yeasted varying qualities of extracts on the market;
dough, it regulates fermentation, tightens purchase them from a reputable source.
gluten, increases shelf life, and promotes
crust color in addition to its flavoring Emulsions are widely used in commercial
properties. ln pastries, salt assists in crust baking. They suspend volatile oils and aro-
formation and color, it makes sweet taste matic substances in a water and glycerin
sweeter and diminishes the impact of sour solution or a water and gum solution. Pure
and bitter tastes, and it binds and strength- emulsions contain 20 percent essential oil.
ens the structure-providing proteins found They are stronger than extracts and are eas-
in egg and f lour. ily incorporated into batters. They are used
primarily for baked products. Emulsions
Salt in formulations and recipes should are a lower-cost alternative to essential oils.
be balanced. For example, for bread, you They result in recognizable f lavors in the
should use 1.8 to 2 percent salt in ratio final product; however, they do not provide
to the weight of the flour. Other products the clarity and brightness is obtained from
include salt accord ingly. extracts and essential oils.
Milk Ghocolate
Truff les, Ewald Notter,
page 1 45
CHOCOLATE
Linnaes, the great taxonomist, named the
cacao tree Theobroma cacaq theobroma
is Greek for "food of the gods. " Chocolate
is derived from this tree, which grows ex-
clusively within the 2Oth parallel north and
south of the equator. Ripe fruit is harvested
and opened after a few days to separate
the beans from the pulp. The beans and
pulp are fermented at ambient temperature
(tropical) to begin developing the f lavor,
and then dried. They are shipped and/or
. Gourmet chocolate (high-end specialty)
stored for cleaning, blending, and roasting, Dark chocolate is made of cacao solids, is made from select beans, either a blend
which encourages more f lavor develop- cocoa butter, and sugar. The amounts of or single origin . lt benef its f rom using more
ment. After roasting, winnowing removes sugar vary, accounting for bitter, semi- cacao sol ids and cocoa butter. The flavor
the nibs, which are then ground, mixed, sweet, bittersweet, and sweet chocolates. and finish of the chocolate is pronounced.
and kneaded and eventually conched, the They are advertised as a percentage, such smooth, and lingering.
final step in chocolate production. Conch- as 60 percent chocolate, which indicates . Couverature (finishing product) contains
ing improves the smoothness and "finish." 60 percent cacao solids and cocoa butter a minimum of 32 percent fat, which, prior
(meaning there is close to 40 percent sugar to the year 2000, came exclusively from
Chocolate has more than 600 volatile flavor in the chocolate). The greater the percent- cocoa butter. Currently, otherfats are
molecules-remember, red wine has only age, the stronger the chocolate f lavor. Milk permissible; however, reputable chocolate
around 200-making it one of the most chocolate is made of a reduced amount of manufacturers have disregarded the con-
complex f lavors of all. cacao solids and cocoa butter. The higher cessions made to candy manufacturers anc
percentage of sugar and milk solids can have remained true to their original mission
There are three varieties of cacao: Criol- overwhelm the chocolate f lavor. of providing the highest quality products
los, Forasteros, and Trinitarios. Criollo made with cocoa butter. Couverature, wher:
trees produce the highest quality beans. Manufactured chocolate is categorized by tempered, provides shine, f inish, snap, f la-
Because they are susceptible to a bevy of its purpose: vor, and other qual ities to enrobed candies il
diseases, the yield is low-they account for . lndustrial chocolate (mass marketed) is and pastries. With its higher percentage ,il
less than 5 percent of all cacao harvested. made from the lowest-quality beans and of cocoa butter, couverature is more fluid
Forestero trees, a hardier variety with has the lowest amount of cacao solids when melted, resulting in improved shine
milder flavored beans, account for most and cocoa butter. lt usually contains large and snap when used for dipping, enrob-
of cacao harvested and used. Trinitarios amounts of sugar and milk or milk solids. ing, or molding chocolate confections. lt
ü
are hybrids of criollos and forasteros with Sweetness is the dominant flavor. lt is not is available in white, milk, and dark forms.
ll
characteristics of both. recommended for baking and pastry. See Resources, page 172. i
HERBS
Herbs, which were once used only in cook-
ing, have been growing in popularity with
pastry chefs, who are using them in both
sweet and savory pastries. Dried herbswill
be more consistent in flavor; however, fresh
will always provide a truer, more complex
flavor. Rosemary, thyme, tarragon, basil,
and other leafy green plants have passed
members of the mint family in usage in the
pastry kitchen. Paired with more traditional
pastry ingredients, they add floral accents
and inflections. Rosemary/apple, sweet
basi l/melon, lemon thyme/strawberry are
examples of combinations that work well
together. Most herbs were originally used
for medicinal purposes-much of their
early use was based on folklore and super-
stition. Some were believed to cause illness
and bad luck. Other herbswere believed to
encourage good health and good fortune,
in addition to warding off evil. Beginning
in the thirteenth century herbs became
more mainstream as a flavoring agent in
the kitchen.
COCOA POWDER
After the cacao beans are roasted and the
nibs have been separated, the nibs are
ground to a paste. The grinding process
creates heat, which liquef ies and releases
most of the cocoa butter. The remaining
mixture is referred to as chocolate liquor.
When chocolate liquor is cool, it is f irm and
known as unsweetened chocolate. Cocoa is
the powdered version of chocolate liquor. lt
is used to flavor and color pastries.
PERFECTI0N, HOWEVER;THE RECIPES lN THIS B00K Fine screen sifter. Useful for sifting
ingredients or dusting finished items with
DEPEND ON ACCURACY AND PRECISION. confectioners' sugar.
Cream the plastic fat with crystal- Cube butter or other plastic fat and Combine all dry ingredients and blE-:
line sugar until pale yellow and light' refrigerate. to evenly distribute the leavening
The sharp edges of the sugar cut into the agent, salt, and any other dry ingredienis
fat, creating air cells that become a place Sift toCether the dry ingredients.
for gasses (carbon dioxide anC steam) to E Add the dry ingredients to the liqui:
collect and expand when heated, leavening ingredients.
the product.
E ,;*?il:,ÍiiHl#:?lTi?Í;t", /r
flour mixture ll
Mix just unti, incorporated
Add the eggs gradual lY to ensure a hand, cut or rub the fat and
stable emulsion. lf the eggs are added until it is the desired consistency. (For flaky
too quickly, the emulsion may curdle. crust, some particles of fat are left intact;
for a tender crust or product, the fat and
Using a curved plastic bowl scraper, f lour mixture are rubbed to a sandy consis-
scrape the bowl and mixer Paddle to tency with no remaining lumps of fat.)
free any cl umps of fat and/or sugar.
Add the liquid ingredients all at once
Add the blended dry ingredients; mix and combine.
on low speed just until the mixture
is homogenous. Overmixing results in the Vtix until just combined.
product imperfections of tunneling, tough- S
ness, and irregular shaPes.
Whipping egg whites requires the most When whipping whole egg or whole egg
FOAMS care of all foams. To create a stable foam and yolk, the foam should reach the "rib-
Foams are used to lighten and/or leaven of egg wh ites, f irst clean the bowl with hot, bon stage." When whipped properly, air is
mixtures. Foams are made by whipping air soapy water. Rubbing the bowl with a cut trapped in the foam, which thickens it to
into egg white, whole egg, egg yolk, or any lemon and wipingwith a papertowel to cut the state that the foam collects or "rib-
combination of the above. Créme Chantilly any remaining grease will lower the pH of bons" on top of the foam when you drop
is also considered a foam; however, it is the bowl surface. Egg whites are alkaline, a small amount back onto the surface.
not used to leaven. lt is frequently used to so adding an acid can strengthen the foam, When the foam achieves the ribbon stage,
lighten mixtures such as chocolate mousse which is why many recipes call for the ad- it has enough air available for leavening.
(see page 89). dition of cream of tartar when whipping egg
whites. Begin whipping on medium speed
to uncoil the proteins so they can begin
linking together. Continue mixing on me-
dium speed while adding sugar gradually.
Continue mixing until the foam is stable.
Whipping on high speed def lates the foam
as quickly as air is introduced, and the
foam can become overextended, making it
less shiny and giving it a grainy texture.
e;@--
TEMPERING
CHOCOLATE
Cocoa butter crystals are destabilized when
chocolate is melted for coating candies and
pastries. Tempering is the restabilizing of
these crystals so the final product will have
a thin coating that is smooth, shiny, and
has a clean snap. There are several meth-
ods of tempering, such as tabling or seed-
ing (vaccination method), during which the
chocolate is melted, cooled, and in some
cases, heated again. These are traditional
methods with great merit and value.
l:i':
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*:ta!,
Brsc0TTl
BY KANJIRO MOCHIZUKI
Biscotti, or twice-baked cookies, have
become a fixture of coffee shops and cafés U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
over the last few decades. Originally, they 8oz 227 o 1 cup
Unsalted butter*
were baked twice as a means of preserving
Granulated sugar 12 oz 340 g L 7z cu ps + 3 tablespoons
them. Toasting, the second bake, imparts
Orange zest From half an orange
lingering toasty, malted notes, highlighting
the natural flavors of the other ingredients. Whole egg 5 eggs
Some retailers keep them on display until Vanilla extract Ltablespoon +
they are sold out, citing the "they are 1 7z teaspoons
remain fresh in an airtight container for Walnuts, toasted and 3 cups unchopped
one week. coarsely ground or chopped* L2 oz 340 g chopped
Tempered couverture for dipping (optional, page27)
necipe notes: *Use European-style butter (minimum32% fat content)
**Any nut may be substituted.
to 350"F (180'c or gas
E fflTj'ven tU :Jfi'.ilff-Tlxili,'*'ffi:l:
golden brown, firm around the bottom
ln the bowl of a stand mixer f itted edges, and starting to crack slightly,
with a paddle attachment, cream the approximately 15 minutes.
butter, sugar, and orange zest on medium
speed until pale yellow, lightened, and well Remove the pan from the oven and
mixed (a). place on a cooling rack to cool for
t hour.
g i,.'#1ffi[:;X';,iliJ?l!i;iiL, tfr when the rogs are coor, prace on a
medium EII
butter mixture (b) while mixing on cutting surface. Using a serrated
speed. Add the eggs in several increments, knife, slice the log on the diagonal into
waiting for each addition to incorporate 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces (h),
before adding the next (this helps to create
a stable emulsion). Lay the slices cut-side down on the
parchment-lined pan and return to
Turn off the mixer. Using a plastic the oven (i)
bowl scraper, scrape the sides of the
and paddle. Bake until the slices are toasted,
approximately 10 to i2 minutes.
ln a medium bowl, blend the flour, Turn the slices over and toast the other side
baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. to the same color, approximately 8 to 10
Add to the butter/egg mixture. minutes.
Mix lightly on low speed until just After the biscotti cool completely,
combined. you may dip them in tempered
couverature (see page 27 for instructions
Add the walnuts (c) and mix on low on temperi ng chocolate).
speed until smooth.
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Combine the butter, sugar, and orange zest in the Add the egg mixture to the butter mixture.
bmru: bowl of a stand mixer. El
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Flatten the tops of the loss. the diagonar into 1-inch rrices back on the pan, cut side
f,l tr ü1;x,ff¡?ffon E lll;*.
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTICE
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
FREDERIC DESHAYES
PAIN D'EPICES
BY FREDERIC DESHAYES
,1/hen the spice trade routes were fjrst
:pened, pain d'epiceswas associated with
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
:re wealthier classes. lt was a naturally
Whole wheat f lour 7oz 200 c I 7+ cups
eavened (sourdough) product containing
ittle sugar. As sugar became more acces- Medium rye flour 24.7 oz 7OO g 6Vz cups
sible, it was incorporated into the recipe. Baking powder 2.3 oz A6o 5 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
Over time, the bread has evolved to be Allspice 0.2 oz 6g 1 tablespoon
rnore cakelike. The spice blend varies from
region to region and from family to family.
Cinnamon I.I oz 30g 4tablespoons+ 2 teaspoons
Nutmeg 0.2 oz 6g I tablespoon
The only fat in the recipe is found in the
egg yolk, yet the loaves remain tender and O.O7 oz 2g 1 teaspoon
.noist for a surprisingly long time. A favorite Ginger 0.7 oz <d 1 % teaspoons
during the holiday season, it has become Black pepper 0.04 oz
't o
7+ teaspoon
oopular year round. Some chefs use it as a Whole milk 2 cups
savory component, pairing it with strongly
Ílavored items includ ing foie gras and
Honey 2l cups
sausages.
Whole egg 2 aaa<
1
:::ilffi
Spray loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray and line Combine the dry ingredients.
with parchment paper, I
CarefullV Rour the baüer into the prepared pans. Let the pans cool slightly before removing
I the loaves.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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SBRISOLONA
BY IGINIO MASSARI
Sbrisolona originated in rural ltaly and
symbolizes seasonal and economic recov-
ery. lt was a neighborly exchange between U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
farmers'families, who would gather and Bread f lour* 14.I oz 400 g 3cups+2tablespoons
compare their individual cakes. lt was tra- Corn flour*" 3.5 oz 100 g 3/+
cup + 7z teaspoon
ditionally made in November after the har- Baking powder .4 oz 10g ltablespoon+ 1 teaspoon
vest, around the same time the new wines 3/+cup+%teaspoon
Almond flour 3.5 oz 100 g
debuted. With its dry texture, Sbrisolona is
perfect for dipping in wine. The different Vanilla bean, scraped I bean 1 bean 1 bean
family wines and Sbrisolonas were paired U nsalted butter, cubed*** 8.8 oz 250 g I cup
and judged by all the families-not in a Granulated sugar 7oz 2O0e I cup
contentious manner, but certainly a highly Salt 0.1 oz 2 4o 3/a teaspoon
competitive one. The fat used to make Whole egg lh aao
the cake was reserved and strained after
Egg yol k I1/zyolks
frying and roasting family meals in pans.
ln the countryside, nothing was discarded. Grand Marnier 3 teaspoons
The different fats provided distinctive, Ammon ium bicarbonate**** 0.18 oz 6o 2 teaspoons
pungent, and aromatic f lavors. Whether it 2 teaspoons
was chicken, beef, pork, game, fowl, or a Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
combination of fats, the f lavors contributed
Recipe notes:
to the individuality of the cakes. *Protein leuel II%-I2%
""Masa harina
***Use European-style butter (minimum32% fat content)
****Available from baking supplies specialist or ethnic
markets
ln the bowl of a stand mixer f itted with
a paddle attachment, blend the bread s-
i ;ii¡¡iri¡t¡Iilil
Line the cake pan with parchment. Crumble the dough.
I !l
f,
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SÉBASTIEN ROUXET
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
SÉBASTIEN ROUXEI.
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PATE A CHOUX
BY SEBASTIEN ROUXEL
Páte á choux is a unique amalgam that
is neither dough nor batter. The f lour is U.S. lmperialWeight Metr¡c Weight Volume
cooked prior to baking, which swells and
572 cups
gelatinizes the starches. lt is leavened by
steam generated from the water in milk and
Unsalted butter" 1lb,5oz 595g 2r/+cups+ 1 tablespoon
eggs. Apprentices practice mixing, baking, Granulated sugar 3.5 oz 100 g Vz cup
and piping it thousands of times, and a Salt 0.6 oz 18g 1 tablespoon
great variety of pastries are made from this Bread flour 1 lb, 15 oz 879 c 6V+ cups + lzcup
simple preparation. Whole egg ? 6 oooc
Engadine nuss torte dough (for cream puffs) See recipe, page76 I recipe
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content).
iil¡ll|ffi
ln a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the To pipe éclairs, hold the tip at a 45'
water, butter, sugar, and salt and bring angle slightly above the prepared
to a boil (a), sheet pan. Apply even pressure while
pulling back on the bag. Use a similar
Remove the pot from the stove and technique to pipe other shapes (e, f).
add the flour all at once.
lf time permits,freeze the shapes
Using a heavy, flat-bottomed spoon, before baking. Otherwise, refrigerate
mix well and return the pot to the for a minimum of one hour.
stove. Cook until the mixture forms a
smooth paste and cleans the sides of the Preheat the oven to 350'F (180'C
pot (referred to as panade). This swells and or gas mark 4).
gelatinizes the starch in the flour, helping
to set the structure of the shells (b). Remove the sheet pans from the
freezer and brush the shapes with
Transfer the mixture to the bowl of egg G). For cream puffs (round shapes),
a stand mixer fitted with the paddle place a thin, small disc of engadine nuss
attachment, torte dough (see page 76) on the moist-
ened surface (h). For chouquettes, another
Mix on medium speed. Move the Parisian treat, sprinkle the egg-washed
f lame of a torch around the bottom rounds liberally wilh sucre graln (pearl
of ihe exterior surface of the bowl for a sugaO. Use granulated sugar if pearl sugar
few seconds to expel excess moisture, if is unavailable.
necessary.
Place the pastry shapes in the
Continue mixing and incorporate the preheated oven and reduce the heat
eggs one at a time, pausing between to 330'F (170'C or gas mark 3).
additions to permit f ull incorporation. The
paste should be f luid and viscous when all Bake until the shapes are golden
of the egg has been incorporated (c). brown and no moisture is visible
on the surface, approximately 18Io22
Allow the mixture to cool to room tem- mrnutes. To double-check for doneness,
perature before piping so the pieces hold one of the shapes to your ear. lf you
will retain their shape. hear hissing, the moisture has not been
f ully expelled, and ihe pastry shells are not
Deposit the mixture in a pastry bag done. Continue baking until there is
fitted with a plain round tip approxi- no sound coming from the shells.
mately Vz inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, filling
the bag 60 percent full. Twist the open end
of the bag tightly, closi ng it to prevent the ttr Cool completely before
orfilling.
cutti¡g and/
Pine the dough in straight lines for éclairs Pipe the dough into shapes, if desired. Brush the dough with egg wash or water.
!l tr El
(continued)
Ton the cream puffs with a disc ol páte sucree. Fillthe cream puffs with créme Chantilly.
f[ E
F¡llthe éclairs with pastry cream. Assemble desired shapes using créme
E Chantilly to hold pieces in place.
EN-MING HSU
PUFF PASTRY
BY EN.MING HSU
Puff pastry is the base for many traditional
and contemporary pastries. The lamina-
tion process alternates layers of dough and
layers of butter, resulting in a flaky pastry.
Pastry flour 7.I oz 2OO g .13l+ cups + 1 tablespoon
European-style butter with its higher fat Unsalted butter* O.9 oz 25e 572 teaspoons
content (reduced water content) is easier Cold water 7z cup minus 1 tablespoon
to work with and provides better layering. Distilled vinegar 2ml
Puff pastry is the base for Napoleons, Salt ño
0.2 oz % teaspoon
pithiviers, the popular tarte tatin, and the
Unsalted butter* 6.2 oz 175 g 1 7+ cups
Palmiers that follow. lts neutral buttery
flavor renders it equally useful for savory Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%falcontent).
applications.
IlifflÍ:["i["'iii.iiilii:lllBn, EIi[I1;Jj:1f,:?ii.iTi::lit;i]
of butter until it is pliable (e). Your goal is
lEliy:l?,lx:5ffi[]:ti?:i:lif
the rectangle formed by the creases that is
,
Melt the 0.9 ounce (25 g) of butter to make the butter and the dough the same closest to you (i).
until it just begins to soften; it should consistency, not necessarily the same tem-
be viscous, not liquid. perature. The butter should be malleable Fold the parchment over the butter
so it can be extended between the layers of and refold the creases to seal the
Combine the water and vinegar. Add dough and so it can be folded. envelope (j).
the salt and stir well to dissolve.
Fold a long rectangle of parchment Smooth out ihe butter packet with
Pour the vinegar mixture and the vis- paper in half (f). rolling pin and refrigerate until
a
cous butter into the well in the center needed (k).
of the flour (b). With the short side of the parchment
facing you, fold down the top and When ready, remove the dough from
Using your fingertips, gradually work bottom so that the center (unfolded part) the refrigerator and place on a lightly
the f lour into the liquid, using a plas- measures approximately 7.5 inches f loured work surface.
tic scraper to assist if necessary (c) (i9.5 cm) (g).
Using a rolling pin, shape the dough
into a 5- x l?-inch (13 x 30.5 cm)
E;:ii:i?,:i.11?,iJj",i.:,xie,?.?i:""8fi:Tffi",J,ffi ?[':ff 3"1,:'f ::' rectangle.
the center (unfolded part) measures ap-
Wrap the dough in plastic and refrig- proximately 4.5 inches (1 1.5 cm) (h). (continued)
erate for a minimum of 2 hours.
Remove the butter from the parchment
envelope and place it on top of the
dough, covering two-thirds of the surface (l).
end nearestyou.
Refrigerate for a minimum of Pound the butter with a rolling pin until ifs softened.
t hour. E
,:'
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:i-::"t.s ür.r'.1
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Pourthe liquids into the well. Gently mix until dough comes Form the dough into a rectangle.
I together and is smooth. I
Fold a long rectangle of parchment Fold the top and bottom so that the Rotate the parchment 90". Fold ¡n the top
in half. center measures approximately and bottom so the center measures approx-
7.5 inches (19.5 cm). imately4.5 inches (1L5 cm).
(continued)
Fold the parchment ovef the butter and Gently roll the surface to smooth outthe
refold the creases to seal. butter.
Place the butter rectangle on Use a dry brush to remove excess flour. Fold the butter-covered third over the
top of the dough. @ previous fold.
PALMIERS
BY EN.MING HSU
Palmiers are crisp, light, flaky, and sweet
without being gooey. They are considered U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
petit fours sec-dry petit fours. They
are served with coffee and tea as well as
Puff pastry dough l recipe l recipe 1 recipe
Flour, for work surface
by themselves. They frequently appear
with other dry petit fours on buffets and Sugar, for sprinkling
mingmardise platters. They are best when
served fresh; freezing will cause them to
lose some of their crispiness.
Preheat oven to 375'F (190'C or Fold the edge of the dough facing Lay the slices cut side down on a
gas mark 5). you one-quarter of the way toward parchment-lined sheet pan (f).
the center (b)
lffi"
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cutthe strip into slices. Place the slices cut-side down on a prepared pan.
El I
THE PASTRY CHEFS APPRENTICE
FRANZ ZIEGLER
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTICE
FRANZ ZIEGLER
TART CRUST/
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE
BY FRANZ ZIEGLER
The engadine nuss torte is one of the most
famous pastries (not including chocolate) U.S. lmperialWeight Menic Weight
from Switzerland. lt combines a tender, 10.6 oz 300 g 13l+ cups
Flour
slightly f laky pastry with chewy, n utty
Confectioners' sugar 1.1 oz 3oc V+ cup
caramel. Walnuts are traditionally used; ')d
Salt .07 oz 7a teaspoon
however, this version incorporates slivered
almonds to fill in the natural gaps formed Unsalted butter* 5.3 oz 150 g 11 tablespoons
when only walnuts are used. One of the Egg, lightly beaten 3 eggs
remarkable qualities of the engadine nuss Lemon juice From half a lemon
torte is its shelf Iife. lt keeps for weeks
Engadine Nuss Torte Filling
when stored tightly covered at room tem-
perature. lt is sturdy enough to ship around
(see recipe following) l reclpe
1 aoc
the world; there are several companies in Whole egg
Switzerland that do so. Serve this rich torie Recipe note, Use cold, European-style butter (minimum82% fat content).
in thin slivers.
Combine the f lour, confectioners' Using a rolling pin, roll the dough in Place the filling on the sprayed work
sugar, and salt. Make into a mound on different directions to create a disc surface and form a ball. Flatten the
a flat work surface. that is approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) ball and press it out until it is nearly the
larger than the tari pan. Rotate the dough size of the tart pan.
Cut the cold butter into cubes and 90'several times throughout the process
add it to the dry ingredients. and dust the work surface with more flour, Place the filling on top of the half-
if necessary. baked crust and press it evenly to
Using a pastry scraper, begin choP- the edges of the pan (i).
a
ping the butter into the flour until the Roll the dough to a thickness of
butter is in small particles and the m¡xture % inch (0.6 cm). With the tines of Lightly moisten the top edge of the
resembles coarse cornmeal (a). a fork, pierce (dock) the dough and return dough with water (j).
4
to the refrigerator for a minimum of 30
f4|
Make a well in the mixture. Add the minutes to minimize shrinkage. Remove the dough circle(s) from the
i
i
lightly beaten egg and lemon juice. refrigerator and slide it into position
:l Use a circle cutter to cut two discs on top of the filline (k).
Using your f ingertips, gradually work of dough for each of the tart pan(s)
the flour/butter mixture into the liquid you are usrng. Press the edges of the circle into the
using a plastic scraper to assist, if neces- moistened dough around the edge
sary. Line the bottom(s) of the pan(s) with of the pan, encasing the filling.
one circle of dough each (e). Place
Form the dough into a rough ball (b). the dough circles for the top of the torte in Lightly beat the remaining egg.
Use the heel of your hand to smear the refrigerator. Brush the surface of the dough with
the dough across the work surface. Gather beaten egg (l).
the dough into a ball and repeat the smear- Place the tart pans in the oven and
ing process with the heel of your hand. bake until half baked, approximately Using the tines of a fork, apply
8 to 10 minutes; the dough will be pale medium pressure to make a
Form the dough into a tight ball, then and slightly dry. Remove from the oven. decorative pattern in the torte top (m).
wrap in plastic (c) and press to form a
disc (d). Using the dough trimmings, form Puncture the surface of the dough
aVz-inch (i.3 cm) cylinder long in a few places to allow steam
Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. enough to wrap around the interior edge of to escape.
the tart pan (f).
Bake until golden brown,
Preheat oven to 350'F (180"C Lightly moisten the edge of the approximately 30 to 35 minutes.
or gas mark 4). dough circle in the tart pan with
Remove from the oven and place on
I !F Remove ihe doueh from the
water (g).
a cooling rack.
e
; f,tace it on a rightrv
p
#";:nxl'jg' tE ::T;:?;#l'ffi:f::J,","'J',lT *.
bottom circle of dough (h).
n
;
Note the texture of the flour mixture. Formthe dough intoa rough ball.
E E
';illlüüilHffi
Wrap the dough in plastic. Í Press the doush into a disc.
E EI
-
d
tg
F
F
',,
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"+É
Press the cylinder into the sides of the The l¡lled tart pan.
p Moisten the edges of the dough.
tart pan.
Moisten the top edge of the dough with water. Slide another dough circle on top of the filling.
I f!
T
*
Brush the top of the torte with beaten egg. Use a fork to make a decorative pattern
I in the torte top.
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING
BY FRANZ ZIEGLER
The torte filling will keep in the refrigerator
for up to one month. lt has a high percent- U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
age of sugar and little to no water activity,
Walnut halves 7.7 oz 2I8g 2Vz cups
so no harmful bacteria can gain a foothold.
Slivered almonds I.6 oz A-A- a Vz cuP
Heavy cream rA cup
Add a little of the sugar at a time to Cook until the sugar mixture Gradually add the remaining sugar,
the glucose. caramelizes. cooking until caramelized.
Use a thermometer to check the temperature Stir the warmed nuts into the caramel.
ol the liquid.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
r
THADDEUS DUBOIS
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTIGE
THADDEUS DUB()IS
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
BY THADDEUS DUBOIS
Pastry chef Thaddeus Dubois's chocolate
mousse uses a classic páte á bombe U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
preparation, a technique that provides
Dark chocolate* 74 oz 400 c
stability to all mousses and adds richness,
especially to chocolate mousse.
Unsweetened chocolate Ioz 3og
Heavy cream 1lb,5oz 600 g 2Vz cups
Egg yolk 6oz I75 g 3Vzyolks
Whole egg 2.5 oz 75g I1/z eggs
2.5 oz 75c Y: cup
3/a
Granulated sugar 5.3 oz 150 g cup
Recipe notes: Eggs should be at room temperature.
*Couverature q ua I ity 55-64%
Combine the dark and unsweetened
chocolate in a heatproof bowl and
place over a pot of simmering water to melt.
After the chocolate has melted, maintain a
temperature of 100"F (37'C).
Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate m¡xture. Spoon the chocolate mousse into serving glasses.
p ¡l
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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KIRSTEN TIBBALLS
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
KIRSTEN TIBBATLS
ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM
BY KIRSTEN TIBBALLS
Italian buttercream is a lighter alternative
to French and American buttercreams.
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
Pastry chefs like it because it uses all the
Granulated sugar I |b,5.2 oz 600 g 3 cups minus
egg whites left over from pastries that
2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
require an abundance of egg yolks. Pouring
Water Vzcup+2tablespoons the hot sugar syrup into the whipping egg
Egg white 11 egg whites white cooks it to a safe temperature. Stored
Unsalted butter* I lb,IO.2 oz 743 g 37+ cups in an airtight container, ltalian buttercream
O.O4 oz 1o % teaspoon keeps for days in the refrigerator and is
useful for many projects. To use, remove
Vanilla extract 1 teaspoon
it from the refrigerator and leave at room
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content). temperature until it is soft and spreadable.
Transfer the buttercream to the bowl of a
stand m ixer f itted with the padd le attach-
I
ment. Mix on medium-slow speed until
the buttercream is smooth and Iight. I n a
u
huny? Melt a small amount of the cold but-
tercream in the bowl of a stand mixer (use
a torch or stove flame). Begin mixing on
medium speed, adding the remaining cold
buttercream in increments until it is fully
incorporated and the mixture is smooth
and creamy.
I n a heavy-bottomed pot, stir the
sugar into the water. Place the pot over
medium-high heat. Place the probe of a
digiial thermometer in the pot.
VARIATIONS:
I For chocolate buttercream, add 8.8
!! orn.., (250 d
melted chocolate along
with the salt and vanilla (e).
SlowlV pour the syrup into the whipped egg whites. The finished buttercream
I
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1 OO THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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ROBERT ELTINGER
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
PASTRY GREAM
BY ROBERT ELLINGER
Seldom eaten alone, pastry cream high-
lights and elevates other components. lt is U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
one of the f irst items a pastry cook learns
to make on the path to becoming a pastry
Whole milk 1 lb, 1.6 oz 500g 2cups+2tablespoons
Vanilla bean Vzbean Vzbean Vzbean
chef, and its cooking is a daily ritual in
busy pastry kitchens. lt is used as a baked Cornstarch 1.3 oz 38e Y+ Cup
filling in taris, Parisian flan, and Danishes. Granulated sugar 4.4 oz 726g rAcup+ 1 tablespoon
It is elevated to as starring role in Napo- Egg yol k 3.3 oz Q?O 2 yolks
leons, éclairs, and fruit tarts. L2oz 33g tablespoons
Unsalted butter, softened* 1 7z
four pastry cream into a shallow container to cool. Whisk in the butter,
!l
Prepare the engadine nuss torte tart
crust as directed on page 76.
1i
*{:
:
:.
I
%
Press the dough into the tart Pan.
t**&
I
nun a rolling pin over the edges to trim.
g
#
Il Brush a thin laver of melted chocolate Fill the shell with an even layer of pastry cream.
lll over the surfaóe of the dough. E
(conti n ued)
Remove the shell from the oven
and place on a cooling rack. When
the shell is cool, remove it from the pan
and paint the surface of the dough with a
thin layer of melted chocolate to ensure a
dry, crisp crust (c).
Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold the flour/
salt mixture into the batter (c),
For ladyfingers, use a spatula io place the batter Whip the egg whites and sugar until the meringue
forms a soft peak.
in a pastry bagfitted with a medium plain
(round) tip (d)
Store in an airtight container or freeze for Fill a pastry bag 60 percent full with the batter.
future use. EI
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p Pine the batter in 4-inch (1 0 cm) strips. Generously sprinkle the ladyfingers with
confectioners' sugar.
Lift the parchment paper to shake off
excess sugar, if desired.
t
TI
BUCHE DE NOEL
BY JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER
Búche de /Voé/ is the iconic Christmas cake
associated with France. lt is universal in U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
its popularity, and the entire family can
Confectioners' sugar,
participate in its simple construction and
for dusting As needed
decoration. Although any flavor combina-
tion of cake and filling can be used, this Chocolate mousse I lb, 8.7 oz-1 lb,
version is classic vanilla and chocolate. (see page 89) 12.2 oz 700 - 800 g
Chocolate buttercream
(see page 96) 1lb,6oz 624g
Cocoa powder, for dusting As needed
Italian meringue
(see nougat recipe, page 152)
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to 375'F (1 e."c gas
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or
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brush off the excess confectioners'sugar.
Spread the ladyf ingers/rou lade batter
evenly on a parchment-lined half Slice one end of the cake at an
sheet pan (a, b) angle (i). Reserve the cut portion to
form a stump on the log.
Bake until the surface is light golden
brown and the edges have pulled Cover the cake with chocolate but-
away from the pan, approximately 6 to tercream (page 96) (j).
8 minutes. The cake should spring back
when touched in the center and pull away Place the stump on top of the cake
from the sides. near the uncut end of the log and
cover it with the buttercream (k).
Remove from the oven and allow to
cool at room temperature. Drag a fork through the buttercream
to create a tree-bark pattern (l).
Sift confectioners'sugar onto a sheet
of parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 200'F (93"C)
ftl
E Loosen the cake and remove from the
rnvert it onto the sugar-dusted
i#m:f' Ig ;l¿Til,XTil:Sil?lt?Íily,:ií
tip. With even pressure, and using the
Remove the baking parchment from same technique as for piping cream
the cake (d). puffs, pipe small bulbs for the caps (m).
Use a spoon to smooth out the tops, if
Spread the chocolate mousse necessary (n). With the same pressure,
(page 89) in an even layer on the pipe the stems.
exposed surface of the cake (e).
Lightly dust the mushroom caps
Grip and lift the farthest edge of the
parchment and use it to begin rolling
@ with cocoa prior to baking (o).
Pour the batter onto a parchment-lined half Snread evenly with an offset spatula.
sheet pan. I
soread chocolate mousse overthe cake. rollthe filled Tichten the cylinder by hand.
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toosen the cake from the pan. Remove the parchment from the bottom of the cake.
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0r tighten by holding a straightedge Cut off one end of the cake at an angle. Cover the cake with chocolate
against the cake while pulling on the E buttercream.
parchment.
(continued)
cover the stump with the buttercream. Use a fork to create a tree-bark pattern.
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caps and stems. if necessary.
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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BLAGK FOREST TORTE
UPDATED CLASSIC
Black Forest torte is a staple of German
bakeries. lt is bold with the f lavors of tart U. S. lmperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
chernes, Kirschwasser, and chocolate.
Unsalted butter* 8.8 oz 248g 2sticks+ltablespoon
It isfinished with créme Chantilly, which
provides a smooth, slightly sweet, and sub- Granulated sugar 9.7 oz 276 e L % cups
tle contrast. This version incorporates sour Cocoa 3.8 oz 108 g 1 cup
cream to balance the pH of the recipe- Hot tea 6 tablespoons
assisting the leavening power of the baking Sour cream 8.8 oz 248g i cup
soda, contributing a tangy flavor, extending
Whole egg 5 large eggs
the keeping qualities, and intensifying the
"chocolate" color of the cake. Vanilla extract l tablespoon
Cake f lour 6.5 oz 185 g I:/: cuPS
Baking soda O.2oz 6o 1 teaspoon
Salt 0.1 oz Lo % teaspoon
Chocolate, f inely chopped 6.5 oz 185 g
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fa| content).
Assemble the ingredients and allow
them to come to room temperature.
TORTE FILLING add a third cake layer. Brush the third layer
with the syrup mixture.
ln a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the sugar, half of the water, the juice of the Rinse, drain, and dry maraschino cher-
cherries, and Kirschwasser (a). Cook over medium heat, boiling until the liquid is ries. Place the cherries on the rosettes.
reduced to a thick syrup (a), approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
lf desired, use a paper cornet to pipe
To check forthe proper consistency, place a spoonful of the syrup on a granite surface decorative melted chocolate on the
or a chilled white plate. When the syrup is cool, pull a spoon through it. lf the streak
from the spoon remains open, the syrup is ready (b).
Apply chocolate shavings to the sides
Add the red currant jelly to the pot and melt over medium heat. of the torte.
Make a slurry with the remaining water and cornstarch. Add it to the boiling cherry/ Freeze until 30 minutes prior to
syrup mixture. Cook until thick and clear, approximately 3 to 4 minutes, service.
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Add the juice of the chenies and boil until thickened. Test the consistency of the syrup.
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nemove cherry mixture from heat and tet cool. Assemblins the torte.
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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MADELEINES
BY KIM PARK
What if Proust had never tasted or writ-
ten about madeleines? Would they be as
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
popular as they are now? Actually, mad-
Unsalted butter, for molds* As needed
eleines were a favorite treat in high society
Versailles in the early 1700s. They may be Unsalted butter 6oz I7O g L 7z sticks
baked lightly for a tender cake or baked to a Bread flour 4oz 113 g '/z cup
darker color for a drier, more f lavorf ul cake Pastry f lour 4oz i13g '/- cup
with a slightly crisp crust to be dipped in Baking powder O.2 oz 5o 1 tablespoon
coffee or tea.
Salt O.2 oz 6o % teaspoon
Whole egg** 5 oooc
Granulated sugar 6oz 170 c 3/+
Cup
Vanilla bean i bean
Recipe notes: *Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content).
**Eggs should be at room temperature.
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fl Pine the batter in 4-inch cm)
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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MARSHMALLOWS
BY ANIL ROHIRA
Untilyou've had a marshmallow made
the old-fashioned way, you might not fully U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
understand the cult of marshmallow lovers.
Sheet gelatin I Z sheets
An artisan-made marshmallow is smooth,
light, flavorful, a bit chewy, and creamy. lce water, strained l cup minus l tablespoon
They are a study in subtlety and nuance. Vanilla bean 2 beans
Nothing overwhelms, nothing is over Water l cup minus l tablespoon
the top. And yet, they render the eater G I ucose 9.9 oz 28I g
speech less.
Granulated sugar 1lb,9oz 708c
Salt 0.05 oz 1.5 c 7a teaspoon
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Line a half-sheet pan with Spray a second silicone
a silicone baking mat. baking mat with nonstick it{i
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SlowlV nour the syrup into the whipped gelatin mixture. Note the consistency of the finished marshmallow mixture.
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Spread the marshmallow evenly using an offset spatula. Using a rolling pin and a silicone baking mat,
E roll over the marshmallow until it is flat and even.
(conti n ued)
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Sift more of the confectioners' sugar Slice the marshmallow into long strips.
mixture on top of the marshmallow. E
Slice aSain, crosswise into squares. Toss the marshmallow squares with
I remain¡ng starcly'sugar mixture.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
MILK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
BY EWALD NOTTER
Truff les are named for their resemblance to
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight the mushroomlike delicacy. With care and
respect, they are easy to produce in their
M i I k chocolate couverature Llb,4oz 567 g
simplest form: a ganache made from cream
Heavy cream 1 cup
and chocolate and a coating of tempered
Glucose Ioz 28e Ve cup chocolate. Without otherflavorings, such
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting as liqueurs, nuts, spices, etc., there is
Milk chocolate couverature, for dipping nothing to interfere with the pure f lavor of
chocolate. Most chocolate manufacturers
are producing high-quality milk chocolate
in which the chocolate is not masked or
overwhelmed bythe addition of milk and
sugar. The label will indicate the percent-
age of cocoa butter and cacao solids. Look
for a percentage ranging from 33 to 38
percent or higher.
Chop the I lb, 4 oz(567 g) of couvera-
ture and place in a bowl.
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Place eanache in a pastry bag.
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Stir smooth with a spatula. Stir the Canache until it lightens in texture and color.
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p fine rounds of ganache onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Hand+oll the ganache into spheres.
:
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Temper more couverature (see page
27 for instructions on tempering
chocolate).
life to a chewy, creamy celebration of local Candied violet petals 3oz 859 3/+ cup
ingredients Freeze-dried strawberries, chopped 1.7 oz 6ño Yz cup
Salt Pi nch Pinch Pi nch
*-.*-r*
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mixing speed to high, and whip for
El.
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Add the melted cocoa butter and blend thoroughly
o'"é (c). Warm the exterror of the mixing bowl with a
kitchen torch, if necessary, to prevent any lumping of
the cocoa butter (d).
.{
Fold and knead the mass until the inclusions are
s
well distributed (f).
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Place the nougat between two nonstick baking
. ."-* # mats, With a rolling pin, roll ihe nougat into a
9 x 12-inch (23 x 30 cm)rectangle (g).
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Let the nougat cool at room temperature. When
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Roll the nougat between nonstick mats
E
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
WILLIAM LEAMAN
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
WITLIAM TEAMAN
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VANILLA BEAN MACARONS WITH
MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE
BYWILLIAM LEAMAN
Macarons have become the darl i ng of pas-
try aficionados-and for good reason. The U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
chewy shells are an excellent vehicle for
Almond flour 10.6 oz 300 g 3 cups
carrying the f lavors and textures of sweet
minus 1 tablespoon
and savory fillings. With a little practice,
+ 1 teaspoon
they are quite simple to produce. This is
one of the few pastries that is made in a Confectioners' sugar 10.6 oz 300g 2r/zcups+ 1 tablespoon
variety of colors. Displays of different + % teaspoon
colored macarons brighten any pastry Vanilla bean 3 beans
presentati on. Egg white 7 egg whites
Granulated sugar 10.6 oz 300 e 1% cup
%cup+ 1 tablespoon
Chocolate ganache (see page 145) I recipe
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Combine the almond Continue folding until the ;l
f lour and confectioners' mixture rs homogenous, ,!,:
sugar. Sift together (a). Add the soft, shiny, and flows evenly off t
scrapings of the vanilla beans. the spatula (f).
(Alternatively, for a smoother
macaroon, you may grind the Using a spatula, deposit .€
almond f lour, confectioners' the batter in a pastry bag
-.i
fitted with a medium plain
sugar, and vanilla bean scrap-
\-- c
ings in a food processorfitted
with the blade attachment and
(round) tip. Twist the open end
of the bag tightly to seal.
ljr
then sift.)
Using even, medium-
Mix three egg whrtes with firm pressure, pipe
the sifted f lour mixture to 2-inch (5 cm) rounds onto
form a smooth paste. silicone baking mats (g).
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Pipe 2-inch (5 cm) rounds The baked macarons. Use your thumb t0 make an indentation i:
onto baking mats. half of the macarons.
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Pine Sanache into the indentations. Place the tops on the macarons
I and press to adhere.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
DACQUOISE AU CHOCOLAT
BY LAURENT BRANLARD
Dacquoise au chocolatis a studY in
contrasts. lt has a simple, understated
appearance: one disc, dusted with pow- Almond flour 2.8o2 80g
dered sugar, f loating on a layer of creamy 2.8o2 8og
Confectioners' sugar
chocolate filling above a second disc. A 3 egg whites
Egg white
crisp texture turns chewy as it melds with
the smooth chocolate. Large versions are Granulated sugar I.I oz 3og
sliced in wedges, like a cake or tart. lndi- Chocolate Mousse (see Page 89)
I recipe
vidual units may be picked up by hand' Chocolate Ganache (see Page 145)
l recipe
1 recipe
Créme ChantillY (see Page 17)
Preheat oven to 390'F (1 99'C or gas Bake until the discs are golden and
mark 6). the edges are firm, approximately 15
minutes. Finish baking with the oven door
Draw two 8-inch (20 cm) circles on a slightly open for 1 or 2 minutes to dry out
sheet of baking parchment. lnvert the the discs. (The discs should be quite dry
parchment and place on a f lat sheet pan. because they will contain a moist f illing.)
Sift together the almond flour and Let cool, then remove the discs from
confectioners' sugar (a)' Reserve' TB the baking pan and trim the edges
with a paring knife if they are too dark and/
ln the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with or dry.
the whip attachment, whiP the egg
whites on medium sPeed.
E l;liñi:!?li:l flff:'l:ilffi:il' E
(round) tip' :1",. and serve at room tempera-
ture. This pastry is best served the day it is
g3[I.,[:'fi;:i;:'ffi::liiJn made
I
Sitt tne almond f lour and confectioners' sugar. Fold the flour-sugar mixture ¡nto the meringue.
I
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eine chocolate mousse or whipped ganache around the baked edge. Fill in the center with crdme Chantilly or chocolate mousse.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Kanjiro Mochizuki Ewald Notter
Japan Switzerland
www.notterschool.com
Frederic Deshayes
France Lauren V. Haas
USA
FranzZiegler
Switzerland
www.franzziegler.ch
Thaddeus DuBois
USA
Kirsten 'l'ibballs
Australia
www.savourschool.com.au
RobeÉ Ellinger
USA
Thomas Haas
Germany
www.thomashaas.com
Kim Park
(Kim, Deok-Kyu)
South Korea
Anil Rohira
lndia
Nathan Mitchell Stamm is an associate
instructor in the lnternational Baking and
Pastry lnstitute within the College of Culi-
nary Arts at Johnson & Wales, Providence,
Rhode lsland. His area of specialization is
artisan baking. He studied at Dunwoody
Technical College in Minneapolis; the
French Pastry School in Chicago; the San
Francisco Baking lnstitute in San Francis-
co; and L'ecole Lenotre in Plasir, France.
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