WHO DOESN'T REMEMBER THEIR GRANDMOTHER'S SPECIAL

CAKE, AUNT MIRIAM'S STRUDEL, A NEIGHBOR'S BROWNIES

OR COOKIES, THE FUNNEL CAKE AT THE GOUNTY FAIR,
THE
Écwns AT THE coRNER BAKER, THE APPTE PIE AT THE
DINER, OR A FAVORITE DESSERT IN THE SCHOOL CAFETERIA?
THOSE MEMORIES STAY WITH US FOR LIFE, DELIGHTING AND
HAUNTING US AT THE SAME TIME.
rl

ili

ll

INTRODUCTION
Pastries punctuate the stories of our lives. HERO WORSHIP
They become reference points for special Each of the pastry chefs profiled here
moments. We cherish those memories, and was generous in sharing his or her time,
those treats become the gold standard by knowledge, philosophy, and experience.
which all other pastries are compared. We They have sacrificed traditional work
chase those memories, returning to baker- schedules and/or time with their families
ies, fairs, and markets hoping to recapture to provide pleasure and memories to
those precious moments; we contact people whom they will never meet' They
friends, neighbors, and cousins in an effort go to work long before sunrise working on
to dig up the recipes so we can relive those their feei al I daY.
moments. Library and lnternet searches
provide clues that tease and taunt, yielding They are historians, teachers, and mentors
products that come close but never match linking the past to the future. They nurture
the memory. The memories loom on the ho- young, aspiring pastry chefs; they are
rizon; their elusive nature is strong enough involved in their communities and profes-
to keep us searching for a lifetime' sional organizations.

My family had dessert every night after din- Pastry chefs dedicate their lives to master-
ner. Except for some of my mother's baked ing a trade, a craft, and an ad form, and
goods, our nightly desserts were from along the way they give us extraordinary
the bakery. To this day, no evening meal gifts. This story unfolds daily in large and
feels complete without some soñ of sweet small shops around the world. Quite often,
treat at the end, whether it is the corner the only praise or accolades many pastry
of a chocolate bar, half a cookie, or a fully chefs receive is second hand-many pastry
plated creation. chefs work hidden from view.
?aatrtl ehelq ded¡cate the¡r l¡vea
to uagterínd a trade, a ualt and
an art lorn, and along the watl
thetl ¡ve us ¿xtraord¡ndrq il1t4.

BRINGING IT HOME
ln a way, home baking enthusiasts are
no different. They rise early, work in hot,
cramped kitchens, scrub pots, wash coun-
tertops, purchase expensive i ngred ients,
buy the latest cookbooks, and fret over the
details with the same fervent obsession as
the professionals. And they do it to bring
pleasure, comfort, and joy to their fam-
ily, friends, neighbors, and colleagues. lt
may not be possible for you to have a fully
stocked professional kitchen, but it is pos-
sible to learn the properties and character-
istics of ingredients and to understand the
principles and techniques of production.

chefs agree that the best place to start

Al I
iswith the fundamentals. Every pastry chef
emphasizes the importance of knowing
and understanding the core techniques
that are used daily in professional kitchens.
Pastry chefs do not memorize recipes; they
understand how the formulas work. This
enables them to elevate their pastries to Passion-fruit mousse dome by William Leaman
a higher level and gives them the tools to
be creative. ln this book, we aspire to help
you understand pastry making on a deeper
level, to move beyond being just a recipe
duplicator. Armed with the knowledge and
guidance from professional pastry chefs,
anyone with the desire and determination
can create world-class Pastries.

As in a professional kitchen, it is advised to

read through the recipe before beginning.
Organization of ingredients and equipment
will facilitate production. Document your
results using notes and photographs. Over
time, your observations will be more acute,
and corrective measures will flow from your
knowledge. The pleasure you receive from
baking and making pastry will increase with
your understanding of the art and practice,
practice, practice. lt won't be long before
you are sharing your knowledge and experi-
ence with your friends and family ... and
having a lot of fun in the meantime' Lady Fingers by William Leaman
 TRANSFORMING A FEW BASIC INGREDIENTS INTO A VARIETY
OF PASTRIES AS DIVERSE AS TENDER LADYFINGERS, LIGHT-
YET.RICH CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, SOPHISTICATED TORTES,
FRurr rARTs, cREAMy Écmlns, AND cRtsp BtscoTTt
SEEMS MYSTERIOUS AND MAGICAL TO THE UNINITIATED.
INDEED, PASTRY MAKING IS FREOUENTLY THE LAST FRONTIER
FOR MANY HOME BAKERS AND ASPIRING PROFESSIONALS.

CHAPTER 1:
THE INGREDIENTS
Almost every pastry combines flour, butter, Speaking with the august group of pastry
sugar, eggs, and salt. Frequently, other chefs featured in this book, I heard four
ingredients, including chocolate, nuts, recurring themes:
spices, fruit, extracts, and especiallyva- . Use the best ingredients.
nilla, are added to enhance the basic . Respect the fundamentals.
flavors. An easy way to elevate your pastries . Document your results.
is to use the most appropriate and the . Practrce, practice, practice.
highest quality ingredients available for
any particu lar process. Of course, practice is the most fun part
of this equation-more so when you are
Familiarity with the properties and able to troubleshoot and solve problems.
characteristics of ingredients used in pastry (However, it is even more fun to avoid them
making allows pastry chefs to create classic in the first placel) Ingredient selection
pastries using traditional ingredients and and sourcing will become easier as you
techniques to achieve consistent results. learn the manner in which they influence
An understanding of the ingredients affords results. Then you'll be able to fix problems
pastry chefs the abi I ity to create i nterpreta- when they arise and manipulate recipes
tions of the same trad itional pastries. Re- without compromising the integrity of the
interpreting and personal izing traditional formulation. So let's start talking about the
pastries is one of the markers distinguish- ingredients you'll use most often.
ing pastry chefs from pastry cooks.
 Proleín number4 cdn be Mi4leddínl.
The 4ualítt1 ol the prlteín í4 luzre
ínportanf than the 7uqnfítrl.

FLOUR
Flour is the logical choice to begin the
study of pastry ingredients, since it is
found in all baked pastries. lt is milled
from wheat kernels to provide a variety of is no gluten in flour, only the gluten-form-
strengths, particle sizes, and other charac- ing proteins. When you add water to wheat
teristics. flour and agitate or mix them, gluten is
formed. When dough is properly developed,
Pastries that include f lour are typically a web of gluten permits the dough to be
leavened by physical, chemical, or bio- shaped and expand during rising and/
logical means (more on this on page 15). or baking (extensibility), yet controls the
Only wheat flour possesses the quality expansion and maintains the desired shape
gluten-forming proteins necessary to trap (elasticity).
these leavening agents. Flours from other
grains-such as rice, corn, oats, rye, and CLASSES OF WHEAT
buckwheat-contri bute to the character- There are six classes of wheat among tens
istics associaied with regional and ethnic of thousands of varieties: hard red winter,
pastries; however, they are typlcally com- hard white winter, hard red spring, soft
bined with wheat flour so that the pastries red winter, soft white, and durum.fhese
will have the gluten they need to be light, classes denote which part of the year the
tender, and uniform. wheat is planted, the color of the grain, and
the hardness of the grain. Soil conditions
Wheat kernels are seeds necessary for the and climate affect the quality of the gluten-
perpetuation of the plant species. They forming proteins.
contain the vital nutrients forthe nascent
stages of the next plant and are made up Hard wheat left in the ground during winter
of three parts: the bran, the germ, and the absorbs abundant amounts of nitrogen,
endosperm. Bran is the protective outer resulting in flour with high-quality proteins
coating, rich in minerals, cellulose, and required for bread production. Too much Durum has a substantial amount of
fiber. The germ has an abundant supply moisture in the form of rain or snow dilutes protein; however, the balance of glutenin
of enzymes used to convert starches into the nitrogen content, and too little moisture and gliadin is skewed, resulting in more
simple sugars (useful for fermentation), creates a nitrogen deficit, adversely affect- extensibility and less elasticity, making it
fats, and vitamins. lt is the embryo of the ing the proteins. better for pasta than pastry. lt is used to
next plant. The endosperm is the largest make bread, but in conjunction with other
part of the kernel and is made of starches, Because of its pale color and shorter, more types of wheat f lour.
proteins, and carbohydrates. easily broken gluten, soft white flour works
well for making cakes and pastries. Pastry Protein Levels in Flour
There are other components in f lour, such flour is milled from soft red winter and/or North American millers use protein content
as fats and moisture; however, in pastry soft white f lour, and it is ideal for tart crust, as a specification. European millers use
making, the main considerations are the cookies, pie dough and the like. Cake flour, the ash content of the flour, an indication
quality and amount of starches and pro- milled from soft red wheat, is bleached of the mineral content. For example, in
teins. Starches absorb Iiquids and provide white and is ground and sifted to a finer France, many bread bakers use Type 55
structure to baked goods. There are two consistency than bread and pastry flours, or Type 65 f lour for bread making. That
gluten-forming proteins in wheat f lour: which allows it to better absorb liquids and means that the ash content is 0.55 or
glutenin and gliadin. Glutenin provides sugars. lt is also softerthan pastryflour, 0.65 percent. The higher the number, the
strength, elasticity, and gas-trapping prop- helping it impart the characteristic light- higherthe ash content, indicatingthat less
erties to dough. Gliadin provides extensibil- ness and tenderness associated with cakes. of the bran and germ (where the minerals
ity (the ability to stretch). Technically, there are found) were discarded during milling.

*- .-f
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tr
Protein numbers can be misleading.
The quality of the protein is more important
than the quantity. For example, preschool- Whole wheat r4-r5"/"
ers use drops of white glue to hold pieces of High gluten r4%
paper in place; carpenters use an indus- 1 )O/
Durum
trial glue to hold their work together. But
a gallon of the white glue would not hold
Bread rI-12.5%
something together that a few drops of the Pastry 8-10%
industrial glue would. Cake 7-8.5%

Looking at the chart to the right, you see

that whole wheat flour has the most protein
and think that if you used it in place of
white f lour, your products would have
greater volume. The truth is, however, that
baked goods made with whole wheat f lour
will have smaller volume because the bran
flakes cut and shear the strands of gl uten,
impairing their ability to stretch.
 ,**{. ,,, .,,..
_.¡:ii:r':ll$**¡:, -r.

,r
.-iá¡i-

or for whipping with eggs (whether whole,

SWEETENERS yolks, or whites) in the production of cakes.
Other than f lour, sugars are the most lVoist brown sugars are useful for bun fill-
commonly used ingredient in pastries. ings, cookies, cakes, and similar products.
They contain carbon, hydrogen, and Supedine sugar is desirable for icings
oxygen and are classified as carbohydrates. and high-ratio cakes (cakes that contain a
All sweeteners fall into two groups: mono- higher ratio of sugar and liquid than typical
saccharides and d isaccharides. When cakes) made with the blending method.
using yeast as a leavening agent, mono- Powdered, or confectioners', sugar is used
saccharides are directly fermentable. for f lat (water) icings, stiffer cookies, tart
Drsaccharides must be converted to crusts, and décor. Honey, glucose, corn
monosaccharides by enzymatic action in syrup, and agave syrup are used for their
order to be metabol ized by yeast. drstinctive flavors in specialty products,
and they increase the shine of icings, frost-
Sugars come in many forms and from ings, and glazes. Molasses, a byproduct of
many sources. Pastry chefs usually select sugar ref ining, imparts an unmistakable,
granulated sugar for creaming with plastic earthy f lavor and color to pastries, while
fats (butter, shortening, etc.) in the produc- maple syrup is prized for its subtle f lavor.
tion of cakes, cookies, and similar products
FUNCTI()NS OF SWEETENERS Contributes to crust color and caramelized
Sweeteners play a wider role than just flavor: Sugar caramelizes when it is heated
simply adding sweetness. Here are several over 320"F (160'C). A caramelized crust
other roles that sweeteners play in pastries. is the first part of a baked good to touch the
(Keep in mind, all sugars are not created tongue, and it delivers a pronounced flavor.
equal. See the chart, "How Sweet lt ls," to Some f lavors from the crust migrate to the
learn more about relative sweetness.) interior of the product, creating layers of
f lavor.
Tenderizes: ln solution (a dough or batter),
sweeteners inhibit gluten development and Complements: Sugars com plement other
i ngredients, especial ly salt.
starch gelatinization. Sugar is hygroscopic
(it absorbs and retains moisture) and
d iverts a portion of the water from structure Contributes flavor: Sweetness is one of
builders like gluten and starch, resulting in the five tastes, Sweeteners such as honey,
tender products. molasses, piloncillo, palm sugar, jaggery,
demerara, and muscovado imbue pastries
Extends shelf life: This is also due to the with their unique, characteristic f lavors.
hygroscopic properties of sweeteners.
Honey, glucose, and invert syrups (made Preserves: Sugars inhibit mold develop-
with equal amounts of fructose and ment.
glucose) keep products fresher longer than
other sweeteners due to their increased
hygroscopic properties. A hygroscopic
ingredient attracts and retains moisture.

Promotes leavening: When you cream dry,

crystalline sugar with plastic fats or whip
it with eggs, the process traps air that is
usef ul for leavening. (Read more about this
in Chapter 3.)

Stabilizes egg foams: The dissolved sugar

inhibits the unfolding and subsequent link- Sucrose, or table sugar, is considered the
ing of the proteins. This is especially impor- control in comparing the sweetness values
tant when making meringues, whether of different sweeteners. lt has a value of
for leavening baked goods or for aerating 100. For example, if molasses were ex-
mousses. Superfine sugar works best for changed with sucrose (by weight), because
this application because it dissolves more it has a sweetness value of only 70, the
quickly than other granulations. baked product would not be as sweet.
Fructose t72
I nvert syru ps ro2
Sucrose (the control) 100
High fructose corn syrup 100
Brown sugar 97
Powdered sugar 97
Honey 80
Dextrose 75
Molasses /U
Maltose 65
Corn syrup (enzyme converted) 60
Malt syrup 42
Corn syrup (acid converted) 31
Lactose 16
 butter. European-style butter is especially
FATS AND OILS beneficial for use in laminated dough such
lf any food group other than carbohydrates as puff pastry (see page 65).
has come under public (or media) scrutiny
in recent history, it is most certainly fats. Oils used in the pastry kitchen are derived
Fats and oils also consist of carbon, hydro- from vegetable sources and have a greater
gen, and oxygen. They are an important tenderizing effect than many fats. Their
dietary source of body heaVenergy. Fats are flavor derives from their plant source.
a mixture of triglycerides that are semi- They do not contribute to leavening, bui
solid or solid at room temperature. Oils are they produce a moister product with an
also a mixture of triglycerides; however, extended shelf life. They are frequently
they are liquid at or below room tempera- used in quick bread products, such as
ture. Fats normally used in pastry kitchens pain d'epices(see page 40)
include shortening, margarine, lard, butter,
and oils. FUNCTIONS OF FATS AND OILS
Fats and oils, also known as lipids, are an
Shortening may be of animal or vegetable essential food group. All fats and oils are
origin, or a combination. lt has a melting derived from animal or plant sources. When
point of 110"F (43.3'C) and is excellent choosing fat for a baked item, it is good to
for creaming with crystalline sugars. Due to understand the source and the properties
its high melting point, products made with and characteristics associated with each
it may leave a waxy coating in your mouth. type of fat. Some fats are better for cream-
ing, others contribute to greater shelf life,
Margarine is made f rom partially hydroge- or flakiness, or specif ic flavors.
nated soybean and palm oils and includes
diglycerides and artif icial f lavors and . Tenderizing: Fat and oils encapsulate
colors. Professional pastry chefs largely flour particles, rendering them imperme-
eschew it. lts most notable benefit is its low able to water. Gluten is less likely to form if
cost. lt is best left as a table spread. water is unavailable to the flour. Fats coat
gluten strands, lubricating and shortening
Lard is rendered from the internal organs of them, making pastries more tender.
hogs. lt isthe hardest of all fats. Like short- . Flavor: Wh i le shorten ing has no f lavor,
ening, it is 100 percent fat. lt is prized for butter, lard, and vegetable oils have dis-
its distinct smoky f lavor in certain tradi- tinctive f lavors.
tional pastries. lts hard, granular texture . Flakiness: ln pie dough, pieces of fat in
produces flakier pie crusts than other fats, the dough melt in the oven, creating layers.
and it is an excellent medium for frying. lt I n puff pastry, layers of fat separate layers

has a melting point of 112"F (44.4"C). lt is of dough. As the pastry bakes, the water in
not as good for creaming. the dough leavens the product, and the fat
keeps the layers f rom merging.
All the recipes in this book call for unsalted o Leavening: Air is incorporated into fats
European-style butter. American butter during the manufacturing process. Highly
is 80 percent butterfat; European style emulsified fats created for high-ratio cakes,
is 82 percent. lt is most pliable at 60 to such as shorienings formulated specifi-
70"F (15.5" to 21.1'C). lt is soft at 80'F cally for cakes and icings, contain up to
(26.6'C), and it has a melting point of 10 percent air. These and other fats trap
88"F (31.1'C) with a final melting point additional air during the creaming process.
of 94'F (34.4"C). lt is the only fat that will Carbon dioxide and steam collect in the air
melt in the mouth, creating a clean "finish" cells created during creaming and allow
or luxurious mouthfeel. Butterflavorings the product to expand.
have been developed in laboratories and . Body and texture: lcings, frostings, and
added to other fats, but no other fat can fillings benefit from the use of solid fats,
match the complex f lavor and mouthfeel of most notably butter.

e- -i.!**$* "" + '-r3

 The pH number represents the power of hydrogen to form ionic bonds. The pH level has a
pronounced effect on baked goods, includingtheir quality, flavor, and shelf life.
Low pH (Acid) High pH (Alkaline)
Tart or sour taste Soapy or sodalike taste
Whiter crumb Darker crumb
Whiter crust Darker crust
Reduced volume Normal volume
Tighter grain More open grain
Si I ky texture Crumbly texture
Moister-longer shelf ifeI Moisture loss-shorier shelf life

Steam isgenerated from the evaporation of Double-acting baking powder is made from
LEAVENING moisture in certain doughs and batters. At one slow-acting and one fast-acting acid in-
2I2"F (IOO"C), water converts to vapor and gredient, bakingsoda, and afillerstarch to
AGENTS expands up to 1,600 times in volume. The
rapid expansion leavens products such as
keep the baking soda and acids separated,
preventing premature release of the carbon
Baked pastries are leavened by introduc-
ing one or more gasses into the dough or páte á choux (used to make cream puffs, dioxide. lt also absorbs moisture that may
batter, creating products that are light and éclairs, etc.) and puff pastry (palmiers, have been incorporated during manufac-
more easily chewed, are more digestible
jalousies, etc.). turing or from the environment. (Always
and palatable, and have greatervolume. keep baking powder tightly covered.) After
Leavening agents are categorized as physi- CHEMICAL LEAVENING AGENTS mixing, 20 to 30 percent of the carbon
cal, chemical, and biological. There are two main chemical leavening dioxide is released at room temperature,
agents: baking soda, also known as sodium leaving 70 to 80 percent to be released in
PHYSICAL LEAVENING AGENTS bicarbonate, and baking powder. When you the oven, giving it good "bench tolerance,"
Air and steam leaven baked goods by physi- combine baking soda with moisture and an orthe abilityto withstand the rigors of pro-
cal means. Air is incorporated into mixtures acid, it generates carbon dioxide. Baking duction and delays in production without
soda has twice the gassing power of baking any discernable damage. When exposed to
by creaming plastic fats and crystalline
sugar. The sharp edges of the sugar cut into powder. lt is alkaline, with a pH of 8.4 to heat in the oven, the generated gas seeps
the fat, trapping air in newly formed cells. 8.9, and when heated without an acid, it into air cells and is trapped by the coagula-
It is in these cells that steam and/or carbon generates carbon dioxide and sodium car- tion of gluten and other proteins (such as
dioxide will collect and expand when bonate, which combines with the fatty ac- eggwhite) in the recipe.
heated. Products made with the creaming ids in the recipe to produce a soapy taste.
process include quick breads, cookies, and Since baked products brown betterwhen BIOLOGICAL LEAVENING AGENT
cakes. Another method of incorporating air they're alkaline, baking soda promotes Yeast is used to leaven breads and pastries.
is through the use of egg foams. Whipping
good crust and crumb color and may be ln an environment of warmth, moisture,
whole egg, egg yolk, or egg white with crys- used in conjunction with baking powder to and an abundant food source, it produces
talline sugar creates a stable foam of air adjust a recipe's alkalinity for this purpose. carbon dioxide, which leavens baked
cells that will expand when heated, as well Baking soda also has a weakening effect goods. None of the pastries chosen for th is
as trapping gasses that will expand when on proteins. This contributes to spread in book are leavened with yeast, so we wi ll not
heated. Products made by whipping eggs cookies, which contain proteins in eggs spend a lot of time discussing it.
with crystalline sugar include ladyfingers, and flour.
angel food cake, and genoise.
The most widely used type of baking pow-
der used by professionals and home bakers
is double acting. Double-acting baking
powder has a neutral pH of 7. Baked goods
made with baking powder will generally
have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 (see chad above).
 tlnderefandin¡ the conpoeition ol
inyedienta leadq lo a yedler
underqtandí ng ol their czntrí butizn4
fo the t¡nal product

DAIRY
PRODUCTS
All the recipes in this book that require Whole milk is an emulsion of tiny fat glob- FERMENTED DAIRY PRODUCTS
milk were made with whole milk. Pastry ules in a water solution of protein, sugar, Buttermilk, sour cream, yogurt, and créme
chefs have many forms of dairy from which and mineral salts. lts composition varies fraiche are dairy products that have been
to choose: buttermilk, whipping cream' with the breed of cow food available to the acidified by the use of bacteria. Fermented
heavy cream, yogurt, sour cream, créme cow, time of day for milking, and geographic dairy products are common in chemically
fraTche, and, of course, butter. They all location. Fat and protein quality are the leavened products such as scones, bis-
originate with dairy cows. Some chefs most susceptible to variation. Whole milk cuits, muffins, and cakes, among others.
use goat's milk to create different f lavor is preferred over skim and low-fat milks for Quite often the ingredient is used in the
profiles. pastry making due to its physical makeup. name of the product, such as sour cream
Products made with whole milk will have coffee cake or buttermilk biscuits, due
Their functions in baked goods are a more pronounced f lavor, crust color, and to the characteristics they impart to the
. Flavor: Most dairy products are character- nutritional value, and they will be more product. The functions of these products in
ized as having a tangy flavor. Fermented tender and have greater keeping qualities. baked goods are:
dairy products (buttermilk, sour cream,
créme fraiche, yogurt, and so on), have a Most milk is pasteurized. Pasteurization . A distinctive tangy, and sometimes sour,
more distinctively sour, or tangt, f lavor. is a process used to kill harmful bacteria. flavor
¡ Crust color: Lactose, or milk sugar, is Unfortunately, all beneficial bacteria are . lncreased shelf life by lowering the pH
not fermentable by yeast, which means also destroyed in the process. Milk is also . An increasing in the gassing power of
that when milk or milk sugars are used in homogenized, which prevents the separa- products leavened with baking soda
yeasted dough, more sugars are available tion of the fat and water. M i lk is wh iter as
for crust coloration. a result, and the f lavor may be blander.
o Nutritional value: Dairy products contain There is a growing movement toward the
protein, fat, sugar, and minerals. lncor- consumption of raw milk. At this time, the
porating dairy products in a recipe adds only means to legally purchase raw milk is
nutritional value. to purchase it at the site of production; it is
. Tenderizing: The fat in dairy products, not sold in stores.
like other fats, inhibits gluten formation
and lubricates gluten that is able to form. Heavy cream is used as a liquid ingredient
in baking products such as quiche, créme
brülée, and other custards. More often it is
whipped and folded into mousses, Bavar-
ian creams, and similar products. lt may be
sweetened and flavored as a stand-alone
component, such as créme Chantilly (see
opposite page). Heavy cream with a fat
content of 40 percent is ideal for whip-
ping. Most heavy cream available in the
marketplace is 36 to 40 percent fat. When
cream is whipped, air is incorporated. Fat
globules link together and surround the air
cells, creating a stable foam.
 EGGS .
An egg minus its shell is approximately Moisture: Eggs are approximately 78
55 percent wh ite and 45 percent yolk. ln percent water (the remaining 22 percent is
North America, large eggs average I.76 solids), which enhances keeping qualities.
ounces (50 g). . Color, richness, and flavor: Products
made with whole eggs or egg yolks have a
Functions of eggs in baked goods: more golden interior, a more browned crust
. Tenderizing: Egg yolks are approximately or shell, and, depending on how much egg
50 percent moisture and 50 percent solids, is incorporated into the recipe, a distinctive
which includes 33 percent fat. The fat in "eggy" flavor.
egg yolks functions the same as other fats
¡ Crust color: Whole egg and water beaten
in lubricating gluten strands and keeping together provide a golden shine when
gluten at a minimum. brushed on the surface of products prior to
¡ Structure: Albumen (egg white) protein baking; whole egg, yolk, and water beaten
and the small amount of protein found in together add a luster to the golden shine.
the yolk coagulate when heated.
¡ Leavening: When eggs are whipped with All recipes in this book use hen eggs. They
crystalline sugar, air cells form. should be as fresh as possible. Due to the
. Emulsification: The lecithin found in egg high risk of salmonella, eggs should be
yolks assists in emulsifying doughs, batters, handled with care. lnspectthem before
and creams. purchasing and do not use eggs with
. Nutritional value: Eggs are a good source damaged shells. Store in a refrigeraior and
of protein and minerals. break eggs directly before using to prevent
excessive decomposition. Wash your
hands, equipment, and smallwares after
contact with raw eggs.

Shel I Porous protective layer Eggs are most easily incorporated into
Albumen (white) 87-88% water; 12-13% protein other ingredients when they are at room
50% water; fat, lipoproteins, lecithin temperature. lt is best to remove eggs from
Yolk
the refrigerator one or two hours prior to
Air cell* Empty space at the wide end of the egg
use. Or you can remove them right before
Chalazae Cord that keeps yolk suspended use and submerge them in warm water
-A small air cell indicates a fresher egg. Egg shells are porous; gas (oxygen) and moisture untilthey are at room temperature.
can pass through the shell. An egg loses moisture over time, and as moisture leaves the
shell over time, the air cell gets larger.
 OTHER FLAVORINGS Compounds, made with natural, artificial,
Essential oils, extracts, emulsions, and or a combination of the two flavors, are
compounds are available in natural and ar- available in f ru it and other f lavors. They are
tificial forms. While naturalflavorings may viscous solutions of flavorings and/or fruit
not be as uniform as artificial, they provide pulp, sugar, and stabilizers used to flavor
a truer f lavor. They are less stable due to unbaked items such as Bavarian creams,
the evaporation and oxidization of some of pastry cream, whipped cream, mousses,
FLAVORINGS the components. and icings. Compounds are available in
Scientists and chefs recognize four tastes: popular f lavors such as mojito, tiramisu,
sweet, salty, sour, and bitter; and they Essential oils, also known as essences, are piña colada, etc. Compounds make it
dispute the existence of a fifth: umami. Yet derived from fruits and plants and are highly
possible to make several f lavors of creamy
we are able to discern thousands of f lavors. volatile and aromatic. Stable oils such as f illings from one batch. For example, a

It is estimated that f lavor is 80 percent clove and peppermint may be extracted by pastry chef could make a single batch of
aroma and 20 percenttaste. Orthonasal steam distillation. Fruits with soft rinds are buttercream and flavor one portion of it
receptors alert us to the baking cinnamon hand-pressed to extract their compounds. with Kirschwasser for the Black Forest
rolls or apple pie next door or the orange Ether and alcohol solvents are used to torte, f lavor another portion with mocha for
being peeled behind us. They send signals extract other essential oi ls. Essential oi ls another project, and yet another portion
to the brain as to the experience we can are more potent than extracts and should with another flavor of choice.
expect when consuming a certain product. be used according the manufacturer's
Retronasal passages in the sinus and throat recommendations. Essential oils are more
transmit the remainder of the information consistent throughout the seasons and
to the brain so that we may make distinc- the years than fresh fruit. Orange oil and
tions between d ifferent foods, even those lemon oil would be acceptable to use when
closely related, such as oranges, tanger- recipes call for orange or lemon zest, such
ines, tangelos, and clementines. as pain d'epices(see page 41) or biscotti
(see page 32).
SALT
Salt, the organic compound of sodium and Extracts are alcoholic solutions of flavoring
chlorine, is indispensible to life. A case compounds, such as vanilla extract. The
could be made that it is equally indispen- flavor is typically between 2 to 8 percent
sible in baking bread and pastry. lt has essential oil. Extracts are available in
a neutral pH of 7, permitting its use in natural and artificial forms and sometimes
almost all preparations. lt harmonizes, en- as a combination of the two. There are
hances, and intensifiesflavors. ln yeasted varying qualities of extracts on the market;
dough, it regulates fermentation, tightens purchase them from a reputable source.
gluten, increases shelf life, and promotes
crust color in addition to its flavoring Emulsions are widely used in commercial
properties. ln pastries, salt assists in crust baking. They suspend volatile oils and aro-
formation and color, it makes sweet taste matic substances in a water and glycerin
sweeter and diminishes the impact of sour solution or a water and gum solution. Pure
and bitter tastes, and it binds and strength- emulsions contain 20 percent essential oil.
ens the structure-providing proteins found They are stronger than extracts and are eas-
in egg and f lour. ily incorporated into batters. They are used
primarily for baked products. Emulsions
Salt in formulations and recipes should are a lower-cost alternative to essential oils.
be balanced. For example, for bread, you They result in recognizable f lavors in the
should use 1.8 to 2 percent salt in ratio final product; however, they do not provide
to the weight of the flour. Other products the clarity and brightness is obtained from
include salt accord ingly. extracts and essential oils.
 Milk Ghocolate
Truff les, Ewald Notter,
page 1 45

CHOCOLATE
Linnaes, the great taxonomist, named the
cacao tree Theobroma cacaq theobroma
is Greek for "food of the gods. " Chocolate
is derived from this tree, which grows ex-
clusively within the 2Oth parallel north and
south of the equator. Ripe fruit is harvested
and opened after a few days to separate
the beans from the pulp. The beans and
pulp are fermented at ambient temperature
(tropical) to begin developing the f lavor,
and then dried. They are shipped and/or
. Gourmet chocolate (high-end specialty)
stored for cleaning, blending, and roasting, Dark chocolate is made of cacao solids, is made from select beans, either a blend
which encourages more f lavor develop- cocoa butter, and sugar. The amounts of or single origin . lt benef its f rom using more
ment. After roasting, winnowing removes sugar vary, accounting for bitter, semi- cacao sol ids and cocoa butter. The flavor
the nibs, which are then ground, mixed, sweet, bittersweet, and sweet chocolates. and finish of the chocolate is pronounced.
and kneaded and eventually conched, the They are advertised as a percentage, such smooth, and lingering.
final step in chocolate production. Conch- as 60 percent chocolate, which indicates . Couverature (finishing product) contains
ing improves the smoothness and "finish." 60 percent cacao solids and cocoa butter a minimum of 32 percent fat, which, prior
(meaning there is close to 40 percent sugar to the year 2000, came exclusively from
Chocolate has more than 600 volatile flavor in the chocolate). The greater the percent- cocoa butter. Currently, otherfats are
molecules-remember, red wine has only age, the stronger the chocolate f lavor. Milk permissible; however, reputable chocolate
around 200-making it one of the most chocolate is made of a reduced amount of manufacturers have disregarded the con-
complex f lavors of all. cacao solids and cocoa butter. The higher cessions made to candy manufacturers anc
percentage of sugar and milk solids can have remained true to their original mission
There are three varieties of cacao: Criol- overwhelm the chocolate f lavor. of providing the highest quality products
los, Forasteros, and Trinitarios. Criollo made with cocoa butter. Couverature, wher:
trees produce the highest quality beans. Manufactured chocolate is categorized by tempered, provides shine, f inish, snap, f la-
Because they are susceptible to a bevy of its purpose: vor, and other qual ities to enrobed candies il

diseases, the yield is low-they account for . lndustrial chocolate (mass marketed) is and pastries. With its higher percentage ,il

less than 5 percent of all cacao harvested. made from the lowest-quality beans and of cocoa butter, couverature is more fluid
Forestero trees, a hardier variety with has the lowest amount of cacao solids when melted, resulting in improved shine
milder flavored beans, account for most and cocoa butter. lt usually contains large and snap when used for dipping, enrob-
of cacao harvested and used. Trinitarios amounts of sugar and milk or milk solids. ing, or molding chocolate confections. lt
ü
are hybrids of criollos and forasteros with Sweetness is the dominant flavor. lt is not is available in white, milk, and dark forms.
ll
characteristics of both. recommended for baking and pastry. See Resources, page 172. i
 HERBS
Herbs, which were once used only in cook-
ing, have been growing in popularity with
pastry chefs, who are using them in both
sweet and savory pastries. Dried herbswill
be more consistent in flavor; however, fresh
will always provide a truer, more complex
flavor. Rosemary, thyme, tarragon, basil,
and other leafy green plants have passed
members of the mint family in usage in the
pastry kitchen. Paired with more traditional
pastry ingredients, they add floral accents
and inflections. Rosemary/apple, sweet
basi l/melon, lemon thyme/strawberry are
examples of combinations that work well
together. Most herbs were originally used
for medicinal purposes-much of their
early use was based on folklore and super-
stition. Some were believed to cause illness
and bad luck. Other herbswere believed to
encourage good health and good fortune,
in addition to warding off evil. Beginning
in the thirteenth century herbs became
more mainstream as a flavoring agent in
the kitchen.

COCOA POWDER
After the cacao beans are roasted and the
nibs have been separated, the nibs are
ground to a paste. The grinding process
creates heat, which liquef ies and releases
most of the cocoa butter. The remaining
mixture is referred to as chocolate liquor.
When chocolate liquor is cool, it is f irm and
known as unsweetened chocolate. Cocoa is
the powdered version of chocolate liquor. lt
is used to flavor and color pastries.

Natural cocoa has a slightly low pH

between 5 and 6, making it usefulfor
increasing the gassing power of baking
soda. Dutched, or dutch-processed, cocoa
has been treated with an alkali to neutral-
ize its acidity, raising its pH to 7 or higher.
This darkens and casts a reddish tint to the
cocoa in addition to softening and mellow-
ingthe bitterness of natural cocoa.
 Micro zester. This is usef ul for removing the
EVERY PASTRY CHEF'S KITCHEN SHOULD BE WELL STOCKED
zest of citrusfruits. lt leaves the bitter pith
WITH SPECIALIZED ITEMS AND TOOLS. PURCHASING THE behind, extracting only the zest with its
ITEMS IN THIS SECTION DOES NOT GUARANTEE PASTRY essentialoils.

PERFECTI0N, HOWEVER;THE RECIPES lN THIS B00K Fine screen sifter. Useful for sifting
ingredients or dusting finished items with
DEPEND ON ACCURACY AND PRECISION. confectioners' sugar.

Heavy-bottomed pots. Purchase at least

one large 5- to 6-quart (5 to 6 L) pot and
one smaller pot.

Wire whisks (two): A heavy, stiff one for

items like pastry cream, and a thin one for
whipping foams like heavy cream or egg
CHAPTER 2: whites.

Silicone baking mats. Baking parchment

EQUIPMENT AND is useful and practical, but these nonstick

mats are completely reusable.

Rounded bowl scrapers

TECHNIQUES Stiff, heatproof spatulas for folding

and stirring
Many of these items can be used for other Graduated measuring cups and spoons.
Flat-bottomed heat-proof spoons for cook-
projects in the kitchen. Tools that are used Measuring cups and spoons may be used
ing páte á choux, caramelizing sugar, and
for precise measurements are more impor- for liquids or if you opt not to weigh your
stirring any thick mixtures
tant than f lashy tools or tools that make dry ingredients. The recipes in this book
jobs easier; begin building your toolkit with were measured by scooping and scraping Disposable pastry bags. They are not very
these items. the tops of the cups and spoons with a flat "green," but they are more sanitary than
edge. When sifting was required, it was the reusable type. They may be used many
Digital scale with metric and U.S. imperial
times if they are washed between uses.
readings. Weighing ingredients is more 9:ry.:ll:1ry?rliire:
accurate and eff icient than volumetric Stand mixer with whip, paddle, and dough An assortment of pastry ti ps. You'l I use
measuring. The metric system allows for hook attachments. A stand mixer saves time, these for decorating and producing items
even greater precision than working with
.: TIqf i9 :f tu ::Tltr.l !t99ffi :
such as éclairs (see page 56), ladyfingers
(see page 113), meringue, (see page 169),
the U.S. lmperial system. Digital scales are
Digital thermometer. They read quickly
inexpensive, small, and easyto use. Look r3999rr:f99pl-e? 19_31.?1.9 .. . ..
and accurately. Some come with alarms
for one that measures up to 1 1 pounds
that can be set to a desired temperature, lcing spatulas. Choose one straight spatula
9lql!1"!:fr9t!:91lg"'. ......... and some have timers. These are useful for for finishing cakes (such as the Black
Subgram digital scale with measurements determining the temperature of cooked so- Forest torte on page 1 25) and one offset
to 0.1 gram. This is usefulforaccurately lutions such as the syrup for páte á bombe spatula for spreading batters (such as
weighing minute amounts of ingredients. or ltalian meringue, tempering chocolate, ladyfingers, see page 1 13). Both are used
A variance of one or two grams of f lour or checking the doneness of baked goods. for many other functions as well, such as
might not adversely affect the results of llltllg I Yl:l?','c 99Tl9l9lll: 9i9.
Oven thermometer. Even if your oven is
most recipes, but a similar difference in
calibrated periodically, an oven thermom- Dough cutter or bench scraper
chemical leavening or salt could create a
eter will allow you to bake in the same (Optional but useful) A torch is useful for
less-than-desi rable product. These scales
conditions every time.
are more accurate for smaller weights. lf heating a mixer bowl of cold ingredients,
you do not wish to purchase a sub-gram Commercial-weight aluminum baking pans caramelizing créme brülée, or loosening
scale, an alternative method of measuring with rolled edges conduct heai evenly. They items from their baking vessels.
would be to use one of the digital scales
9i9.f19".d 19 ?: l1l :!99lt?lt.:.........
mentioned above, but do not tare after the
Nonstick parchment paper
preceding ingredient. For example, if you
weigh 500gramsof flourand need 2grams Set of graduated mixing bowls
of baking powder, do not tare the scale af-
An 8-inch (20 cm) chef's knife, a paring
ter measuring the flour and add the baking
knife, and a serrated slicing knife
powder untilthe reading is 502 grams.
THE INCREDIENTS IN MOST PASTRY RECIPES ARE SIMILAR'
IF NOT THE SAME. SO HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO CREATE
SO MANY DIFFERENT STYLES OF PASTRIES? OF COURSE'
DIFFERENT PROPORTIONS OF INGREDIENTS ARE
RESPONSIBLE FOR SOME OF THE DIFFERENCES. BUT
THE REAL DIFFERENCE IS FOUND IN HANDLING, OR THE
TECHNIOUES. HERE IS AN OVERVIEW OF COMMON'
TRADITIONAL PROCESSES USED TO MAKE PASTRIES.

DOUGHS AND BATTERS

The creaming process is used for cook- The rubbing or biscuit method coats the The blending method is typically used
ies, quick breads, and cakes. lt requires particles of f lour with fat, encapsulating when liquid fats are part of the recipe or
crystalline sugar and a plastic fat (butter, them. The liquid in the recipe cannot when the recipe includes a large amoun:
shortening, or margarine). For successful penetrate that barrier and is less likely to of liquid ingredients and no fat, as wiih
combine with the flour to form gluten, re- pain d'epices(see page 41).
results, follow the guidelines listed below.
sulting in a more tender product. Keep the
Work with all ingredients at room following principles in mind when using Combine all liquid ingredients and
temperature. the rubbing/biscuit method. blend thoroughly.

Cream the plastic fat with crystal- Cube butter or other plastic fat and Combine all dry ingredients and blE-:
line sugar until pale yellow and light' refrigerate. to evenly distribute the leavening
The sharp edges of the sugar cut into the agent, salt, and any other dry ingredienis
fat, creating air cells that become a place Sift toCether the dry ingredients.
for gasses (carbon dioxide anC steam) to E Add the dry ingredients to the liqui:
collect and expand when heated, leavening ingredients.
the product.
E ,;*?il:,ÍiiHl#:?lTi?Í;t", /r
flour mixture ll
Mix just unti, incorporated
Add the eggs gradual lY to ensure a hand, cut or rub the fat and
stable emulsion. lf the eggs are added until it is the desired consistency. (For flaky
too quickly, the emulsion may curdle. crust, some particles of fat are left intact;
for a tender crust or product, the fat and
Using a curved plastic bowl scraper, f lour mixture are rubbed to a sandy consis-

scrape the bowl and mixer Paddle to tency with no remaining lumps of fat.)
free any cl umps of fat and/or sugar.
Add the liquid ingredients all at once
Add the blended dry ingredients; mix and combine.
on low speed just until the mixture
is homogenous. Overmixing results in the Vtix until just combined.
product imperfections of tunneling, tough- S
ness, and irregular shaPes.
 Whipping egg whites requires the most When whipping whole egg or whole egg
FOAMS care of all foams. To create a stable foam and yolk, the foam should reach the "rib-
Foams are used to lighten and/or leaven of egg wh ites, f irst clean the bowl with hot, bon stage." When whipped properly, air is
mixtures. Foams are made by whipping air soapy water. Rubbing the bowl with a cut trapped in the foam, which thickens it to
into egg white, whole egg, egg yolk, or any lemon and wipingwith a papertowel to cut the state that the foam collects or "rib-
combination of the above. Créme Chantilly any remaining grease will lower the pH of bons" on top of the foam when you drop
is also considered a foam; however, it is the bowl surface. Egg whites are alkaline, a small amount back onto the surface.
not used to leaven. lt is frequently used to so adding an acid can strengthen the foam, When the foam achieves the ribbon stage,
lighten mixtures such as chocolate mousse which is why many recipes call for the ad- it has enough air available for leavening.
(see page 89). dition of cream of tartar when whipping egg
whites. Begin whipping on medium speed
to uncoil the proteins so they can begin
linking together. Continue mixing on me-
dium speed while adding sugar gradually.
Continue mixing until the foam is stable.
Whipping on high speed def lates the foam
as quickly as air is introduced, and the
foam can become overextended, making it
less shiny and giving it a grainy texture.

Stiff, whipped egg whites

 &a..

Each of these preparations takes place on Italian meringue is used to stabilize:==

COOKED the stove to provide the intrinsic character-
istics identified with the products in which
whites for use in macarons, buttercre ¿^-.
and other pastries. lt can also be use: .:
lighten mousses. lt is a mixture of r,'- .: =
PREPARATIONS they are used.
egg white and sugar syrup that, like :-=
syrup in páte á bombe, has been cc:-=-
-
Páte á bombe, also called bombe paste,
is used to stabilize and provide the proper 250'F (rzr"C).
thickening and texture to mousses and
other creams. lt is a mixture of whipped Páte á choux has characteristics oÍ : -.-
egg yolk and sugar syrup that has been dough and batter. Flour is added tc ¿
cooked to 250"F (121"C). The syrup may mixture of boiling water and fat. Tl s
be made from sugar and water; glucose and gelatinizes the starch and tenderizE. .. =
water; or sugar, glucose, and water. gluten, permitting voluminous expa-: -
that creates a hollow container r,vitr : -' .
shell that can hold sweet and savc',' '
without damage due to moisture.

e;@--
 TEMPERING
CHOCOLATE
Cocoa butter crystals are destabilized when
chocolate is melted for coating candies and
pastries. Tempering is the restabilizing of
these crystals so the final product will have
a thin coating that is smooth, shiny, and
has a clean snap. There are several meth-
ods of tempering, such as tabling or seed-
ing (vaccination method), during which the
chocolate is melted, cooled, and in some
cases, heated again. These are traditional
methods with great merit and value.

A simpler and increasingly popular method

with professionals and home bakers, is the
direct method. To temper chocolate using
the direct method:
. Use an accurate thermometer and a
rubber spatula.
. Place the chocolate in a nonreactive
bowl and microwave on a medium setting. OTHER
Depending on the amount, microwave
for 20 to 30 seconds, remove the bowl, TECHNIQUES
stir, and repeat. Continue microwaving in Folding whipped cream or egg white into a
1O-second intervals, stirring in between. batter or cream determ i nes the ightnessI

. Monitor the temperature to ensure of the product. Aggressive or excessive

that the chocolate does not exceed 90'F folding can deflate the foam that is being
(30.2'C). folded into the other ingredients. Success-
A sturdy stand mixer is necessary for whipping, . When allthe chocolate is melted, but ful folding is easy but should not be taken
blending, creaming, and kneading.
before the temperature has reached 90"F for granted. These guidelines will help you
(30.2'C), evaluate the chocolate to as- understand this simple, but often misun-
sure that it is "in temper." lf some of the derstood, technique.
chocolate is still solid, return the bowl to
the microwave for a few seconds, increas- . Use a f lexible yet f irm spatula.
ing the temperature to 91'F (32.7"C). Stir . Holding the spatula vertically, begin
untilmelted. This process may be repeated, in the twelve o'clock position and draw
increasing the temperature to a maximum a straight perpendicular line to the six
of 94'F (34.4'C). Do not exceed 94'F o'clock position.
(34.4"C) or the chocolate will be unusable. . Rotate the spatula 45 degrees and move
. Use for molding, enrobing, décor, etc., the edge of the scraper to clean the side
monitoring the temperature and adjusting of the bowl as you move toward the nine
as necessary. o'clock position.
. To maintain the temper, set the bowl over . Lift the scraper and fold the mixture over
a pot of 90'F (30.2'C) water or occasionally on itself in the center of the bowl.
microwave the chocolate for 10 seconds. A . Rotate the bowl 90 degrees and repeat
heating pad covered with a towel also works the folding motion.
well to maintain the temperature. The . Repeat untilthe mixtures is homogenous
chocolate should remain warm and fluid. and lightened.
KANJIRO M()CHIZUKI
fHE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
 KANJIRO M()CHIZUKI

l:i':
 :,q

*:ta!,

Brsc0TTl
BY KANJIRO MOCHIZUKI
Biscotti, or twice-baked cookies, have
become a fixture of coffee shops and cafés U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
over the last few decades. Originally, they 8oz 227 o 1 cup
Unsalted butter*
were baked twice as a means of preserving
Granulated sugar 12 oz 340 g L 7z cu ps + 3 tablespoons
them. Toasting, the second bake, imparts
Orange zest From half an orange
lingering toasty, malted notes, highlighting
the natural flavors of the other ingredients. Whole egg 5 eggs
Some retailers keep them on display until Vanilla extract Ltablespoon +
they are sold out, citing the "they are 1 7z teaspoons

supposed to be hard and dry" page of their 1lb,8oz 680 g 5 % cups

training manual. Eating biscotti after they 1.8 oz 5og /:cup+2tablesPoons
Baking powder
have been freshly baked (as opposed to 1A-o
Salt 0.5 oz 2 teaspoons
sitting in jars for months) will rejuvenate
anyone's appreciation for them. They will Ci nnamon 0.06 oz 1.7 c % teaspoon

remain fresh in an airtight container for Walnuts, toasted and 3 cups unchopped
one week. coarsely ground or chopped* L2 oz 340 g chopped
Tempered couverture for dipping (optional, page27)
necipe notes: *Use European-style butter (minimum32% fat content)
**Any nut may be substituted.
 to 350"F (180'c or gas
E fflTj'ven tU :Jfi'.ilff-Tlxili,'*'ffi:l:
golden brown, firm around the bottom
ln the bowl of a stand mixer f itted edges, and starting to crack slightly,
with a paddle attachment, cream the approximately 15 minutes.
butter, sugar, and orange zest on medium
speed until pale yellow, lightened, and well Remove the pan from the oven and
mixed (a). place on a cooling rack to cool for
t hour.
g i,.'#1ffi[:;X';,iliJ?l!i;iiL, tfr when the rogs are coor, prace on a
medium EII
butter mixture (b) while mixing on cutting surface. Using a serrated
speed. Add the eggs in several increments, knife, slice the log on the diagonal into
waiting for each addition to incorporate 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces (h),
before adding the next (this helps to create
a stable emulsion). Lay the slices cut-side down on the
parchment-lined pan and return to
Turn off the mixer. Using a plastic the oven (i)
bowl scraper, scrape the sides of the
and paddle. Bake until the slices are toasted,
approximately 10 to i2 minutes.
ln a medium bowl, blend the flour, Turn the slices over and toast the other side
baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. to the same color, approximately 8 to 10
Add to the butter/egg mixture. minutes.

Mix lightly on low speed until just After the biscotti cool completely,
combined. you may dip them in tempered
couverature (see page 27 for instructions
Add the walnuts (c) and mix on low on temperi ng chocolate).
speed until smooth.

Divide the mixture into 14.5-ounce

@I2 C) portions (d).

Form into logs and roll to almost the

length of a half sheet pan, approxi-
malely 12 inches (30 cm) (e, f).

Place the logs on a sheet pan lined

with parchment paper.

Press the top of the logs lightly

to flatten the tops (e). The height
should remain the same; you're just mini-
mizing the curve.
 . :q

-*e

ry
tt
$
eÉ*rr
:'-J',
'

*
-#
'ñ
:€: t
.ffi
,,¡r!áS@*n¡¡

Combine the butter, sugar, and orange zest in the Add the egg mixture to the butter mixture.
bmru: bowl of a stand mixer. El
e.

ffidil.:
w
ry

L
,.d

* k;
dq w.
" .,-.,*::&

Roll logs to approximately 1 2 inches

p Form the dough into logs.
(30 cm).
 ndd tne coarsely chopped and toasted walnuts to the dough. Measure out 1-pound (455 g) portions of dough.
! lll

Flatten the tops of the loss. the diagonar into 1-inch rrices back on the pan, cut side
f,l tr ü1;x,ff¡?ffon E lll;*.
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTICE
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
FREDERIC DESHAYES
 PAIN D'EPICES
BY FREDERIC DESHAYES
,1/hen the spice trade routes were fjrst
:pened, pain d'epiceswas associated with
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
:re wealthier classes. lt was a naturally
Whole wheat f lour 7oz 200 c I 7+ cups
eavened (sourdough) product containing
ittle sugar. As sugar became more acces- Medium rye flour 24.7 oz 7OO g 6Vz cups
sible, it was incorporated into the recipe. Baking powder 2.3 oz A6o 5 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
Over time, the bread has evolved to be Allspice 0.2 oz 6g 1 tablespoon
rnore cakelike. The spice blend varies from
region to region and from family to family.
Cinnamon I.I oz 30g 4tablespoons+ 2 teaspoons
Nutmeg 0.2 oz 6g I tablespoon
The only fat in the recipe is found in the
egg yolk, yet the loaves remain tender and O.O7 oz 2g 1 teaspoon
.noist for a surprisingly long time. A favorite Ginger 0.7 oz <d 1 % teaspoons
during the holiday season, it has become Black pepper 0.04 oz
't o
7+ teaspoon
oopular year round. Some chefs use it as a Whole milk 2 cups
savory component, pairing it with strongly
Ílavored items includ ing foie gras and
Honey 2l cups
sausages.
Whole egg 2 aaa<
1

Granulated sugar 6.4 oz 182 g 3/acup+2tablespoons

Vanilla extract 3 teaspoons
Lemon zest 0.2 oz 6g i tablespoon
Orange zest O.2 oz 7o l tablespoon
0.6 oz 18g 1 tablespoon
 to 325'F (170"c or gas
II il:[:j"ven lO 3?ff¿::iiillli:,::?,1],13,"*,"0
crust that springs back when touched, and
Spray two 9 x 3 x 4-inch (23 x7 .5 x the sides of the loaf will have pulled away
10 cm) loaf pans with nonstick cook- from the pan. lnsert a clean skewer into
ing spray. Line the bottom and short sides the center of the loaf and remove it. lf the
of pans with a strip of parchment paper to skewer is clean, the cake is done.
ensure the release of the baked product (a).
Place the loaf pans on a cooling rack
Combine and sift together f lours, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes (d).
baking powder, allspice, cinnamon,
nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper to ensure lnvert the loaf pans to remove the
even distribution (b). Reserve. loaves. Remove the parchment and
return loaves to the cooling rack until com-
Warm the milk and honey to 70'to pletely cooled, allowing excess moisture to
75"F (27" to 24'C) in a saucepan escape.
over low heat. The mixture will blend and
homogenize more efficiently when the To bake muffins, preheat oven to
temperatures of the ingredients are equal. 375'F (190"C or gas mark 5). Line
Reserve. the tins with paper liners, or spray the
cavities and top surface of the tin liberally
ln the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with with nonstick cooking spray. Use a disher
the whip attachment, whip the eggs to fill the muff in cups to 75 percent of their
and sugar to aerate, approximately capacity. Bake for 12 minutes; reduce the
3 minutes. temperature to 350"F (180"C or gas mark
4) and continue baking until a skewer
Add the milk and honey to the inserted in the muffin comes out clean,
whipped egg/sugar mixture. Whip approximately 8 to 10 minutes. lf liners are
lightly to combine. used, the muffins can cool in the pans for
10 minutes before removrng. lf liners are
Replace the whip attachment with not used, remove the muff ins directly after
the paddle attachment. (This helps baking by tapping the sides of the muff in
prevent overaerating the batter, which tin on a hard, clean surface. Place the muf-
would result in an overleavened product fins right side up on a cooling rack.
that might collapse, resulting in a gummy
and doughy interior.) When cool, wrap the loaves or
muff rns in foil until you are ready to
Add flour mixture and mix on low serve. Store at room temperature. The flavor
just to combine. (Overmixing creates fully diff uses and blooms on the second
tough, rubbery loaves with tunnels in the day-your patience will be rewarded.
interior,)

Evenly divide the batter between the

prepared loaf pans (c). Use a disher
(ice cream scoop) or other device to prevent
splattering batter on the sides of the loaf
pans, if desired.

:::ilffi
 Spray loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray and line Combine the dry ingredients.
with parchment paper, I

CarefullV Rour the baüer into the prepared pans. Let the pans cool slightly before removing
I the loaves.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

INTERVIEW WITH IGINIO MASSARI

With appreciation to Biaggio Settepani, another great pastry chef , for translating
IGINIO MASSARI
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SBRISOLONA
BY IGINIO MASSARI
Sbrisolona originated in rural ltaly and
symbolizes seasonal and economic recov-
ery. lt was a neighborly exchange between U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
farmers'families, who would gather and Bread f lour* 14.I oz 400 g 3cups+2tablespoons
compare their individual cakes. lt was tra- Corn flour*" 3.5 oz 100 g 3/+
cup + 7z teaspoon
ditionally made in November after the har- Baking powder .4 oz 10g ltablespoon+ 1 teaspoon
vest, around the same time the new wines 3/+cup+%teaspoon
Almond flour 3.5 oz 100 g
debuted. With its dry texture, Sbrisolona is
perfect for dipping in wine. The different Vanilla bean, scraped I bean 1 bean 1 bean
family wines and Sbrisolonas were paired U nsalted butter, cubed*** 8.8 oz 250 g I cup
and judged by all the families-not in a Granulated sugar 7oz 2O0e I cup
contentious manner, but certainly a highly Salt 0.1 oz 2 4o 3/a teaspoon
competitive one. The fat used to make Whole egg lh aao
the cake was reserved and strained after
Egg yol k I1/zyolks
frying and roasting family meals in pans.
ln the countryside, nothing was discarded. Grand Marnier 3 teaspoons
The different fats provided distinctive, Ammon ium bicarbonate**** 0.18 oz 6o 2 teaspoons
pungent, and aromatic f lavors. Whether it 2 teaspoons
was chicken, beef, pork, game, fowl, or a Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
combination of fats, the f lavors contributed
Recipe notes:
to the individuality of the cakes. *Protein leuel II%-I2%
""Masa harina
***Use European-style butter (minimum32% fat content)
****Available from baking supplies specialist or ethnic
markets
 ln the bowl of a stand mixer f itted with
a paddle attachment, blend the bread s-

f lour, corn flour, baking powder, almond

flour, vanilla scrapings, and cubed butter
srys s

lightly. The mixture should be a rough,

shaggy mass.

Add the sugar, salt, egg, egg Yolk, and

Grand Marnier and mix lightlY.

Dissolve the ammonium bicarbonate

in the water and add to the dough. .?

Mix lightly untilthe dough is uniform

E}
(a).
'v
Place on a lightly f loured work surface
and form into a tight ball.

Flatten the ball and wrap the dough in

plastic wrap. Refrigerate overn ight.

The next day, preheat the oven to

Note the texture of the finished dough'
350"F (175"C or gas mark 4).
El
Buttera 1O x 2-inch (25.4 x 5 cm)
cake pan and line with parchment (b).

Remove the dough from the refrigera-

tor and crumble (c). Use the largest
holes on a box grater if necessarY.

Without packing or comPacting

them, gently place the crumbles in
the buttered and Iined cake pan (d).

Place the Sbrisolona in the oven and

bake until golden brown and a tooth-
pick inserted in ihe cake comes out clean,
approximately 30 to 40 minutes (e).

E Remove from the oven and dust with

confectioners' sugar (f).
'\
Reserve at room temPerature ¡tF,n
¡E until served. Stored in an airtight '_i
t :,..,.
1

container, it remains fresh for several days' :!*!!.]i.;r... .

Older Sbrisolona is dipped in coffee, tea,

Ss.:'
hot chocolate, or wine.

Gently pour the ctumbles into the

prepared pan.

i ;ii¡¡iri¡t¡Iilil
 Line the cake pan with parchment. Crumble the dough.
I !l

p Aale until golden brown.

Il
Dust with confectioners' sugar.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

f,

4
SÉBASTIEN ROUXET
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
SÉBASTIEN ROUXEI.
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PATE A CHOUX
BY SEBASTIEN ROUXEL
Páte á choux is a unique amalgam that
is neither dough nor batter. The f lour is U.S. lmperialWeight Metr¡c Weight Volume
cooked prior to baking, which swells and
572 cups
gelatinizes the starches. lt is leavened by
steam generated from the water in milk and
Unsalted butter" 1lb,5oz 595g 2r/+cups+ 1 tablespoon

eggs. Apprentices practice mixing, baking, Granulated sugar 3.5 oz 100 g Vz cup
and piping it thousands of times, and a Salt 0.6 oz 18g 1 tablespoon
great variety of pastries are made from this Bread flour 1 lb, 15 oz 879 c 6V+ cups + lzcup
simple preparation. Whole egg ? 6 oooc

Engadine nuss torte dough (for cream puffs) See recipe, page76 I recipe
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content).

iil¡ll|ffi
 ln a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the To pipe éclairs, hold the tip at a 45'
water, butter, sugar, and salt and bring angle slightly above the prepared
to a boil (a), sheet pan. Apply even pressure while
pulling back on the bag. Use a similar
Remove the pot from the stove and technique to pipe other shapes (e, f).
add the flour all at once.
lf time permits,freeze the shapes
Using a heavy, flat-bottomed spoon, before baking. Otherwise, refrigerate
mix well and return the pot to the for a minimum of one hour.
stove. Cook until the mixture forms a
smooth paste and cleans the sides of the Preheat the oven to 350'F (180'C
pot (referred to as panade). This swells and or gas mark 4).
gelatinizes the starch in the flour, helping
to set the structure of the shells (b). Remove the sheet pans from the
freezer and brush the shapes with
Transfer the mixture to the bowl of egg G). For cream puffs (round shapes),
a stand mixer fitted with the paddle place a thin, small disc of engadine nuss
attachment, torte dough (see page 76) on the moist-
ened surface (h). For chouquettes, another
Mix on medium speed. Move the Parisian treat, sprinkle the egg-washed
f lame of a torch around the bottom rounds liberally wilh sucre graln (pearl
of ihe exterior surface of the bowl for a sugaO. Use granulated sugar if pearl sugar
few seconds to expel excess moisture, if is unavailable.
necessary.
Place the pastry shapes in the
Continue mixing and incorporate the preheated oven and reduce the heat
eggs one at a time, pausing between to 330'F (170'C or gas mark 3).
additions to permit f ull incorporation. The
paste should be f luid and viscous when all Bake until the shapes are golden
of the egg has been incorporated (c). brown and no moisture is visible
on the surface, approximately 18Io22
Allow the mixture to cool to room tem- mrnutes. To double-check for doneness,
perature before piping so the pieces hold one of the shapes to your ear. lf you
will retain their shape. hear hissing, the moisture has not been
f ully expelled, and ihe pastry shells are not

Deposit the mixture in a pastry bag done. Continue baking until there is
fitted with a plain round tip approxi- no sound coming from the shells.
mately Vz inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, filling
the bag 60 percent full. Twist the open end
of the bag tightly, closi ng it to prevent the ttr Cool completely before
orfilling.
cutti¡g and/

mixture from working its way out of the rear

of the bag as you pipe.

Line a sheet pan with parchment

g Tofill the cream puffs, use a ser-
rated knife to remove and reserve
the top portion.
or a silicone baking mat. To pipe
cream puffs and/or chouqueltes, hold the Using a pastry bag f itted with a
bag perpendicular to and slightly above star tip, fill the cavity with créme
the prepared sheet pan. Holding the bag Chantilly (see page 17) (i). (Optional: place
stationary, apply even pressure until the a small amount of pastry cream lsee page
surface of the piped shape is touching the 1031 in the bottom of the cavity before pip-
tip, Release the pressure and remove the ing in the créme Chantilly.)
tiP (d),
(contrnued)
 Place the cut tops on top of
the filling.

Sift confectioners' sugar over the

surface of the cream puffs and
refrigerate until service. lf refrigerated for
a lengthy period of time, the puffs may
require a second sifting of sugar.

To fill the éclairs, use the tip of a

paring knife to cut a small hole in
each half of the bottom of the éclair.

Using a pastry bag fitted with a

plain (round) tip, fill the éclairs with
pastry cream (j).

Dip the éclarrs into tempered

couverature (see page 27 for
instructions on tempering chocolate) and
refrigerate until service.

Assemble other desired shapes, if

uslng (k). BrinS the water, butter, sugar, and salt to a boil.
!l

Pipe the dough into round shapes for

cream puffs.
 Note the consistency of the final dough.
Cook until dough pulls away from the sides of the pot. p
I

Pine the dough in straight lines for éclairs Pipe the dough into shapes, if desired. Brush the dough with egg wash or water.
!l tr El
(continued)
 Ton the cream puffs with a disc ol páte sucree. Fillthe cream puffs with créme Chantilly.
f[ E

F¡llthe éclairs with pastry cream. Assemble desired shapes using créme
E Chantilly to hold pieces in place.
EN-MING HSU
 PUFF PASTRY
BY EN.MING HSU
Puff pastry is the base for many traditional
and contemporary pastries. The lamina-
tion process alternates layers of dough and
layers of butter, resulting in a flaky pastry.
Pastry flour 7.I oz 2OO g .13l+ cups + 1 tablespoon
European-style butter with its higher fat Unsalted butter* O.9 oz 25e 572 teaspoons
content (reduced water content) is easier Cold water 7z cup minus 1 tablespoon
to work with and provides better layering. Distilled vinegar 2ml
Puff pastry is the base for Napoleons, Salt ño
0.2 oz % teaspoon
pithiviers, the popular tarte tatin, and the
Unsalted butter* 6.2 oz 175 g 1 7+ cups
Palmiers that follow. lts neutral buttery
flavor renders it equally useful for savory Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%falcontent).
applications.

IlifflÍ:["i["'iii.iiilii:lllBn, EIi[I1;Jj:1f,:?ii.iTi::lit;i]
of butter until it is pliable (e). Your goal is
lEliy:l?,lx:5ffi[]:ti?:i:lif
the rectangle formed by the creases that is
,
Melt the 0.9 ounce (25 g) of butter to make the butter and the dough the same closest to you (i).
until it just begins to soften; it should consistency, not necessarily the same tem-
be viscous, not liquid. perature. The butter should be malleable Fold the parchment over the butter
so it can be extended between the layers of and refold the creases to seal the
Combine the water and vinegar. Add dough and so it can be folded. envelope (j).
the salt and stir well to dissolve.
Fold a long rectangle of parchment Smooth out ihe butter packet with
Pour the vinegar mixture and the vis- paper in half (f). rolling pin and refrigerate until
a
cous butter into the well in the center needed (k).
of the flour (b). With the short side of the parchment
facing you, fold down the top and When ready, remove the dough from
Using your fingertips, gradually work bottom so that the center (unfolded part) the refrigerator and place on a lightly
the f lour into the liquid, using a plas- measures approximately 7.5 inches f loured work surface.
tic scraper to assist if necessary (c) (i9.5 cm) (g).
Using a rolling pin, shape the dough
into a 5- x l?-inch (13 x 30.5 cm)
E;:ii:i?,:i.11?,iJj",i.:,xie,?.?i:""8fi:Tffi",J,ffi ?[':ff 3"1,:'f ::' rectangle.
the center (unfolded part) measures ap-
Wrap the dough in plastic and refrig- proximately 4.5 inches (1 1.5 cm) (h). (continued)
erate for a minimum of 2 hours.
 Remove the butter from the parchment
envelope and place it on top of the
dough, covering two-thirds of the surface (l).

Fold the uncovered dough over half of

the butter. Using a dry brush, remove
the excess flour from the dough (m).

Fold the remaining ihird of the dough

(covered with butter) over the previous
fold, as if folding a business letter. Use a dry
brush to remove the excess f lour. Manipulate
the dough if necessary to ensure that the but-
ter is completely encased (n).

Wrap in plastic and refrigerate the

dough for a minimum of 15 minutes

Remove the dough from the

EII refrigerator and place it on a lightly
f loured work surface with the exposed (shori)

end nearestyou.

Make a well in the center of the flour.

Using a rolling pin, elongate the
rectangle to 5 x 12 inches (13 x 3
0.5 cm). Roll evenly and eff iciently to avoid
overmanipulating the dough.

Repeat the folding process as

described above.

Wrap in plastic and refrigerate the

dough for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Repeat steps 17 through 19 two

more times.

Refrigerate the dough for 2 hours.

Remove the dough from the

refrigerator and repeat the rolling
and folding process.

Wrap in plastic and refrigerate

overnight.

The following day, remove the dough

from the refrigerator and repeat the
rolling and folding process one f inal time.

Refrigerate for a minimum of Pound the butter with a rolling pin until ifs softened.
t hour. E
 ,:'
\
E
t,"
.,.i¡k.-
:i-::"t.s ür.r'.1

... ;l.i
1l

'l:.
:: rf ."l-,ir- ',
"

--¿¿

Pourthe liquids into the well. Gently mix until dough comes Form the dough into a rectangle.
I together and is smooth. I

Fold a long rectangle of parchment Fold the top and bottom so that the Rotate the parchment 90". Fold ¡n the top
in half. center measures approximately and bottom so the center measures approx-
7.5 inches (19.5 cm). imately4.5 inches (1L5 cm).
(continued)
 Fold the parchment ovef the butter and Gently roll the surface to smooth outthe
refold the creases to seal. butter.

Place the butter rectangle on Use a dry brush to remove excess flour. Fold the butter-covered third over the
top of the dough. @ previous fold.
PALMIERS
BY EN.MING HSU
Palmiers are crisp, light, flaky, and sweet
without being gooey. They are considered U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
petit fours sec-dry petit fours. They
are served with coffee and tea as well as
Puff pastry dough l recipe l recipe 1 recipe
Flour, for work surface
by themselves. They frequently appear
with other dry petit fours on buffets and Sugar, for sprinkling
mingmardise platters. They are best when
served fresh; freezing will cause them to
lose some of their crispiness.

Preheat oven to 375'F (190'C or Fold the edge of the dough facing Lay the slices cut side down on a
gas mark 5). you one-quarter of the way toward parchment-lined sheet pan (f).
the center (b)

E 5,.',[?:XT;:::'"|.t:ru;ffi;i,i:,?; !r Ford again, endingwith therorded ¡E:lffiii:;ffiili:ili.:HJJii'"

work surface. Il edge in the center of the dough. palmiers are golden brown and caramel-
ized, approximately 15 minutes.
Using a rolling pin, extend the Fold the opposite edge of the dough
dough until into a rectangle until it one-quarter of the way toward the Remove the pan from the oven.
is approximately % inch (0.3 cm) thick center (c). Working quickly, turn over each of
and approximately 16 inches (40.6 cm) the slices and return the pan to the oven.
by 10 inches (25.4 cm). Fold this side again, meeting the
first folded half in the center. Continue baking until the top is
Just before the dough is the proper golden and caramelized, approxi-
thickness, clear the work surface of Fold the two halves together, ending mately6to8minutes.
flour and cover it with sugar. Sprinkle the with the open side facing you (d).
top of the dough with sugar (a). Cool on the pan and store in an
Using a sharp knife, cut the strip airtight container.
Extend the dough to the proper into even slices, approximately
th ickness. 3/einchlo/zinch (1 cm to 1.25 cm) thick
(e).
 Snrinkle sugar over the surface of the dough.
!l

Fold the two halves together.

E
 Fold the edge of the dough one-quafter of the way toward the center. Fold the opposite edge in the same way.
fll !

lffi"
e#-r
' &a.

#
#

cutthe strip into slices. Place the slices cut-side down on a prepared pan.
El I
THE PASTRY CHEFS APPRENTICE
FRANZ ZIEGLER
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTICE
FRANZ ZIEGLER
TART CRUST/
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE
BY FRANZ ZIEGLER
The engadine nuss torte is one of the most
famous pastries (not including chocolate) U.S. lmperialWeight Menic Weight
from Switzerland. lt combines a tender, 10.6 oz 300 g 13l+ cups
Flour
slightly f laky pastry with chewy, n utty
Confectioners' sugar 1.1 oz 3oc V+ cup
caramel. Walnuts are traditionally used; ')d
Salt .07 oz 7a teaspoon
however, this version incorporates slivered
almonds to fill in the natural gaps formed Unsalted butter* 5.3 oz 150 g 11 tablespoons
when only walnuts are used. One of the Egg, lightly beaten 3 eggs
remarkable qualities of the engadine nuss Lemon juice From half a lemon
torte is its shelf Iife. lt keeps for weeks
Engadine Nuss Torte Filling
when stored tightly covered at room tem-
perature. lt is sturdy enough to ship around
(see recipe following) l reclpe
1 aoc
the world; there are several companies in Whole egg
Switzerland that do so. Serve this rich torie Recipe note, Use cold, European-style butter (minimum82% fat content).
in thin slivers.
 Combine the f lour, confectioners' Using a rolling pin, roll the dough in Place the filling on the sprayed work
sugar, and salt. Make into a mound on different directions to create a disc surface and form a ball. Flatten the
a flat work surface. that is approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) ball and press it out until it is nearly the
larger than the tari pan. Rotate the dough size of the tart pan.
Cut the cold butter into cubes and 90'several times throughout the process
add it to the dry ingredients. and dust the work surface with more flour, Place the filling on top of the half-
if necessary. baked crust and press it evenly to
Using a pastry scraper, begin choP- the edges of the pan (i).

a
ping the butter into the flour until the Roll the dough to a thickness of
butter is in small particles and the m¡xture % inch (0.6 cm). With the tines of Lightly moisten the top edge of the
resembles coarse cornmeal (a). a fork, pierce (dock) the dough and return dough with water (j).

4
to the refrigerator for a minimum of 30
f4|

Make a well in the mixture. Add the minutes to minimize shrinkage. Remove the dough circle(s) from the
i

i
lightly beaten egg and lemon juice. refrigerator and slide it into position
:l Use a circle cutter to cut two discs on top of the filline (k).
Using your f ingertips, gradually work of dough for each of the tart pan(s)
the flour/butter mixture into the liquid you are usrng. Press the edges of the circle into the
using a plastic scraper to assist, if neces- moistened dough around the edge
sary. Line the bottom(s) of the pan(s) with of the pan, encasing the filling.
one circle of dough each (e). Place
Form the dough into a rough ball (b). the dough circles for the top of the torte in Lightly beat the remaining egg.
Use the heel of your hand to smear the refrigerator. Brush the surface of the dough with
the dough across the work surface. Gather beaten egg (l).
the dough into a ball and repeat the smear- Place the tart pans in the oven and
ing process with the heel of your hand. bake until half baked, approximately Using the tines of a fork, apply
8 to 10 minutes; the dough will be pale medium pressure to make a
Form the dough into a tight ball, then and slightly dry. Remove from the oven. decorative pattern in the torte top (m).
wrap in plastic (c) and press to form a
disc (d). Using the dough trimmings, form Puncture the surface of the dough
aVz-inch (i.3 cm) cylinder long in a few places to allow steam
Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. enough to wrap around the interior edge of to escape.
the tart pan (f).
Bake until golden brown,
Preheat oven to 350'F (180"C Lightly moisten the edge of the approximately 30 to 35 minutes.
or gas mark 4). dough circle in the tart pan with
Remove from the oven and place on
I !F Remove ihe doueh from the
water (g).
a cooling rack.
e

; f,tace it on a rightrv
p
#";:nxl'jg' tE ::T;:?;#l'ffi:f::J,","'J',lT *.
bottom circle of dough (h).
n

; Remove the f illing (see recipe

^
5 following) from the refrigerator.

I Spray a work surface with nonstick

cooking spray.

;
 Note the texture of the flour mixture. Formthe dough intoa rough ball.
E E

Line the bottom of the tart pan with a d0ugh circle.

!l tr lllff flxli:
trimminss into a

';illlüüilHffi
 Wrap the dough in plastic. Í Press the doush into a disc.
E EI
-

d
tg
F
F
',,

E
"+É

Press the cylinder into the sides of the The l¡lled tart pan.
p Moisten the edges of the dough.
tart pan.
 Moisten the top edge of the dough with water. Slide another dough circle on top of the filling.
I f!

T
*
Brush the top of the torte with beaten egg. Use a fork to make a decorative pattern
I in the torte top.
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING
BY FRANZ ZIEGLER
The torte filling will keep in the refrigerator
for up to one month. lt has a high percent- U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
age of sugar and little to no water activity,
Walnut halves 7.7 oz 2I8g 2Vz cups
so no harmful bacteria can gain a foothold.
Slivered almonds I.6 oz A-A- a Vz cuP
Heavy cream rA cup

Water 7+ cup minus 1 teaspoon

1 tablespoon
Vanilla bean Va bean
U nsalted butter, softened
* 0.9 oz 26.39 2 tablespoons
O.4 oz 11.3g 1 teaspoon
Granulated sugar 8.8 oz 25Og IrA cup
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fa| content).
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING
BY FRANZ ZIEGLER
The torte filling will keep in the refrigerator
for up to one month. lt has a high percent- U.S. lmperial Weight Metr¡c Weight
age of sugar and little to no water activity,
Walnut halves 7.7o2 2I8C 2Vz cups
so no harmful bacteria can gain a foothold.
Slivered almonds L6oz /.4. o Vz cup
Heavy cream r/+ cup
Water 74 cup minus 1 teaspoon
Honey I tablespoon
Vanilla bean r/q bean
Unsalted butter, softened* O.9 oz 26.3 g 2 tablespoons
O.4 oz 11.3 g 1 teaspoon
Granulated sugar 8.8 oz 25Og IV+ cup
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%falcontent).
 Preheat oven to 350"F (180"C or gas
mark 4).

Combine the walnuts and almonds ,a&**

on a sheet pan and toasi lightly in the
oven, approximately 10 to 12 minutes (a).
After the nuts are toasted, open the
oven door and leave them in the oven
to remain warm.

Place the heavy cream, water, honey,

vanilla bean, and butter in a heavy-
bottomed pot. Keep warm over medium
heat, keeping the temperature below the
boiling point.

Place the glucose in a separate heavy-

bottomed pot with tall, steep sides
and place over medium heat.

Cook until the glucose liquefies, then

add a small amount of the sugar (b).
until the sugar is caramelized (c).
Toast the walnuts and almonds in the oven.

Continue adding sugar gradually until

all of the sugar has been added and it
is caramelized (d).

With caution, gradually add the

warmed cream mixture to the cara-
mel. The disparity between the two tem-
peratures will cause rapid, intense boiling
in the pot (e). Use a long-handled spoon or
spatula to stir.

When the cream mixture has been

fully incorporated, cook the contents
of the pot to a temperature of 232'F
(1 1 1'C) (f).

Add the warmed nuts and stir to

combine €).

Pour the caramel-nut mixture into

a container and refrigerate until
needed.

Carefully add the cream mixture t0 the caramelized

sugar mixture.
 T
ft+
;r*ñ

Add a little of the sugar at a time to Cook until the sugar mixture Gradually add the remaining sugar,
the glucose. caramelizes. cooking until caramelized.

Use a thermometer to check the temperature Stir the warmed nuts into the caramel.
ol the liquid.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

r
THADDEUS DUBOIS
THE PASTRY CHET'S APPRENTIGE
THADDEUS DUB()IS
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
BY THADDEUS DUBOIS
Pastry chef Thaddeus Dubois's chocolate
mousse uses a classic páte á bombe U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
preparation, a technique that provides
Dark chocolate* 74 oz 400 c
stability to all mousses and adds richness,
especially to chocolate mousse.
Unsweetened chocolate Ioz 3og
Heavy cream 1lb,5oz 600 g 2Vz cups
Egg yolk 6oz I75 g 3Vzyolks
Whole egg 2.5 oz 75g I1/z eggs
2.5 oz 75c Y: cup
3/a
Granulated sugar 5.3 oz 150 g cup
Recipe notes: Eggs should be at room temperature.
*Couverature q ua I ity 55-64%
 Combine the dark and unsweetened
chocolate in a heatproof bowl and
place over a pot of simmering water to melt.
After the chocolate has melted, maintain a
temperature of 100"F (37'C).

I n the bowl of a stand m ixer f itted with

the whip attachment or with a handheld

whisk, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks
(a). Refrigerate.

Place the egg yolks and eggs in the

bowl of a stand mrxer fitted with the
whip attachment. Whip the egg yolks and
eggs on medium speed.

Stir the water and sugar together in a

small saucepan. Cook over medium
heat until the mixture reaches 180'F (82"C)
and the sugar is completely dissolved.

Reduce the mixing speed to low and

slowly pour the sugar syrup into the egg
mixture, avoiding the sides of the bowl and Whin the cream to soft peaks.
the whip attachment (b).
I
After the syrup has been added, in-
crease the mixing speed to
medium-high.

Continue whipping until the mixture is

pale yellow, the outside of the mixing
bowl is cool, and the mixture forms a ribbon
(when the whip is lifted out of the mixture,
the mixture falls on the surface of the mix-
ture and does not sink into the mixture). This
isyour páte á bonbe(c).

Add the melted chocolate to the páfe

á bombe. Mix on medium speed to
incorporate (d).

When the chocolate is fully incorporated,

fold one-third of the whipped cream
into the chocolate mixture. This will lighten
the mixture so the remaining cream will not
def late when folded into ihe mixture. Fold in
the remaining cream (e).

Spoon or ladle into cups, glasses, or

molds (f), or leave in the mixing bowl
and portion later. Add the melted chocolate t0 the egg and
sugar mixture,
Cover and refrigerate the mousse until
it is ready to serve.
 Pour the sugar into the eggs while mixing. Note the consistency of the whipped egg and sugar mixture. This
I is your páte á bombe.

Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate m¡xture. Spoon the chocolate mousse into serving glasses.
p ¡l
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

'6i*terr Iüú
ftls
tFt
Sirit

Sovñr
KIRSTEN TIBBALLS
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
KIRSTEN TIBBATLS
ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM
BY KIRSTEN TIBBALLS
Italian buttercream is a lighter alternative
to French and American buttercreams.
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
Pastry chefs like it because it uses all the
Granulated sugar I |b,5.2 oz 600 g 3 cups minus
egg whites left over from pastries that
2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
require an abundance of egg yolks. Pouring
Water Vzcup+2tablespoons the hot sugar syrup into the whipping egg
Egg white 11 egg whites white cooks it to a safe temperature. Stored
Unsalted butter* I lb,IO.2 oz 743 g 37+ cups in an airtight container, ltalian buttercream
O.O4 oz 1o % teaspoon keeps for days in the refrigerator and is
useful for many projects. To use, remove
Vanilla extract 1 teaspoon
it from the refrigerator and leave at room
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content). temperature until it is soft and spreadable.
Transfer the buttercream to the bowl of a
stand m ixer f itted with the padd le attach-
I
ment. Mix on medium-slow speed until
the buttercream is smooth and Iight. I n a
u
huny? Melt a small amount of the cold but-
tercream in the bowl of a stand mixer (use
a torch or stove flame). Begin mixing on
medium speed, adding the remaining cold
buttercream in increments until it is fully
incorporated and the mixture is smooth
and creamy.
 I n a heavy-bottomed pot, stir the
sugar into the water. Place the pot over
medium-high heat. Place the probe of a
digiial thermometer in the pot.

While the sugar mixture cooks, begin

whipping the egg whites on medium
speed in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the whip attachment (a).

Do not stir the sugar syrup while it

cooks; wash the sides of the pot wiih a
wet brush to prevent crystallization (b). Boil
the syrup until it reaches 250'F (120'C) (c),
Remove the pot from the stove.

Lower the mixer speed to medium-low

and pour the syrup slowly into the egg
whites in between the whip and the side of
the bowl (d).

After all the syrup has been incorpo-

rated, resume mixing on medium speed
and whip until the meringue is cool. Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks.
I
Cream the butter in a mixing bowl to
soften it, or pound it with a rolling pin
until it's pliable. Add the butter gradually to
the cooled meringue.

Add the salt and vanilla after half of the

buüer has been incorporated.

Continue whipping until all ingredients

are combined and the buttercream is
smooth, light, and creamy.

Use directly or store in the refrigerator

until needed. To use refrigerated but-
tercream, melt a small portion over simmer-
ing water and add it to the cold buttercream
in the bowl of a stand mixer f itted with the
paddle attachment. Whip smooth.

VARIATIONS:
I For chocolate buttercream, add 8.8
!! orn.., (250 d
melted chocolate along
with the salt and vanilla (e).

For mocha buttercream, make a paste

with hot water and espresso-grind
instant coffee and add to the chocolate but- Wash down the sides of the pot to prevent
tercream to taste, approximately 2 ounces sugar crystals from forming.
(57 g), along with the salt and vanilla.
 Check the temperalure of the sugar syrup.
!

SlowlV pour the syrup into the whipped egg whites. The finished buttercream
I

flr?*" I
 1 OO THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

"T believe that the eavorq aide

and the paefrtl e¡de need fo
work fogelher lo help and
teach eaeh other."

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Eltiit
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ROBERT ELTINGER
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
PASTRY GREAM
BY ROBERT ELLINGER
Seldom eaten alone, pastry cream high-
lights and elevates other components. lt is U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
one of the f irst items a pastry cook learns
to make on the path to becoming a pastry
Whole milk 1 lb, 1.6 oz 500g 2cups+2tablespoons
Vanilla bean Vzbean Vzbean Vzbean
chef, and its cooking is a daily ritual in
busy pastry kitchens. lt is used as a baked Cornstarch 1.3 oz 38e Y+ Cup
filling in taris, Parisian flan, and Danishes. Granulated sugar 4.4 oz 726g rAcup+ 1 tablespoon
It is elevated to as starring role in Napo- Egg yol k 3.3 oz Q?O 2 yolks
leons, éclairs, and fruit tarts. L2oz 33g tablespoons
Unsalted butter, softened* 1 7z

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%faI content).

 ln a heavy-bottomed, nonreactive pot,
heat the milk, the vanilla bean pod,
and its scrapings until bubbles begin to form
around the edge of the pot (a). Set aside for
30 minutes, allowing the vanilla to infuse
the milk.

ln a medium bowl, combine the corn-

starch and 2.2 ounces (63 g) of sugar
Add the egg yolk and use a whisk to make a
smooth paste (b).

Stir the remaining 2.2 ounces (63 g) of

sugar into the infused vanilla/milk. Re-
the pot to the stove and bring to a boil. .
I
:

When the mixture begins to boil, .i

il
remove the pot from the stove. Slowly
pour one-third of the boiling mixture into the
yolk/starch/sugar paste, wh iski ng briskly.
This is known as tempering (c).

Quickly stir the tempered mixture into

the remaining milk mixture in the pot Bring the milk and vanilla bean and
scrapings to a boil.
and return to medium-high heat (d).
ri
Stirring vigorously and constantly with ii
ü,
a stiff wire whisk, cook until the mixture
is bubbling, approximately 2 or 3 minutes.

Remove from the stove and pour into

a shallow container (e). Alternatively,
#
pour the pastry cream into a clean bowl, then tfñ
place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water
and stir periodically to cool. $
*
When the pastry cream is 86-88'F
(30-3 1'C), remove it from the ice bath +
and briskly whisk in the softened butter (f).

To prevent a skin fromforming, place

plastic wrap or parchment paper on the
surface of the pastry cream and refrigerate
until cool.

When cool, transfer the pastry cream

to a covered, airtight container. Use
within three days. Before using, place the
pastry cream in a bowl and whisk smooth,

Pour tempered mixture into remaining

hot milk.
 Whisk the egg yolks with the cornstarch/sugar mixture. SlowlV add hot milk to egg yolk paste, stirring constantly.
Iil !l

four pastry cream into a shallow container to cool. Whisk in the butter,
!l
 Prepare the engadine nuss torte tart
crust as directed on page 76.

After the dough has f irmed and

relaxed in the refrigeratorfor 2 hours,
place it on a lightly floured work surface.

Tap the pastry a few times with a roll-

ing pin to soften the dough for rolling.

Roll the dough in different directions

to create a disc that is approximately
3 inches (7.5 cm) larger than the tart
FRUIT TART pan. Rotate the dough 90'several times
throughout the process and dust the work
surface with flour, if necessary.
BY ROBERT ELLINGER
Fold the dough in half and transfer
it to the tart pan. Gently press the
dough into the fluted sides of the pan (a).

Run the rolling pin over the edges to

trim the excess dough (b).

Place in the refrigerator for 30 min-

utes to 2 hours to allow the dough to
relax, keeping shrinkage at a minimum.
t&:r:,1

ée,, Preheat oven to 350'F ( 180'C or gas

' ' ]%' mark4).

4
t
* irF
Remove the dough from the refrig-
erator and use the tines of a fork to
,*€*t
il pierce (dock) the dough in the bottom
.,'1] ry,:3:::r of the pan. Refrigerate for at least 30
€i*.!!t minutes.

Lay a piece of parchment paper

inside ihe lined tart pan and fill with
dry beans or rice.

Bake untilgolden brown, approxi-

mately 12 to 15 minutes.
U.S. lmperialWeight Meüic Weight Volume
Engadine nuss torte crust I recipe Remove the pan from the oven.
Chocolate, melted 2oz 579 Remove the parchment liner
Pastry cream I3.9 oz 395 g and beans.

Fruit: fresh berries and

Brush the surface of the baked
assorted firm-fleshed
dough with beaten egg and return
varieties, sliced and diced 1 lb., 1.6 oz 500 g
the pan to the oven for 5 minutes, creating
227 g 3/+
Apricot preserves 8oz cup
a seal to prolong the crispness of the tart
Simple syrup 6oz 770 g 3/+ Cup shell after filling with the pastry cream.
 5

1i
*{:
:
:.

I
%
Press the dough into the tart Pan.
t**&
I
nun a rolling pin over the edges to trim.
g
#

Il Brush a thin laver of melted chocolate Fill the shell with an even layer of pastry cream.
lll over the surfaóe of the dough. E
(conti n ued)
 Remove the shell from the oven
and place on a cooling rack. When
the shell is cool, remove it from the pan
and paint the surface of the dough with a
thin layer of melted chocolate to ensure a
dry, crisp crust (c).

Deposit an even layer of pastry

cream in the tart shell, filling it
75-80 percent full (d).

Arrange fresh fruit in a symmetrical

or random pattern on the surface of
the pastry cream (e).

Combine the apricot preserves

and simple syrup in a small
saucepan over medrum-high heat and
boil approximately 1 minute or until the
mixture is smooth. Check for doneness:
the glaze should flow off a spoon, and
when dropped onto a cold plate, it should
thicken slightly. Strain and use warm. lf
the glaze thickens, rewarm and/or thin p Ananee the fruit on top of the pastry cream.
with more syrup.

Using a brush, lightly apply the

apricot glaze to the fruit (fl. lt will
seal the fruit, prolonging freshness and
maintaining its placement and providing
a sh iny surface.

Refrigerate until service. Fruit

tarts are best if eaten the day of
preparation.

Brush the fruit with apricot glaze.

E
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER
[] i,, ! ir i:li
LADYFINGERS/ROULADE
BY JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER
A simple cake with no fat other than the
trace amount found in the egg yolks, this U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weighl
cake is light, tender, and delicate. lt can
Cake f lour 4.3 oz l22g lcup+lteaspoon
be baked in rounds for layer cakes, as
ladyfingers, or in a thin sheet to be used as 04 oz lo I teaspoon
a rou lade. Egg white 6 egg wh ites
Granulated sugar 6.5 oz 183 g Icup+2tablespoons
+ 1 teaspoon
Egg yolk 6 egg yolks
Vanilla extract 1 tablespoon
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
 Preheat oven to 375'F (190"C or gas mark 5).
Line two half sheet pans with parchment paper
and set aside

Sift the f lour and salt three times and reserve.

ln the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip-

El ping attachment, whip the egg whites on
medium speed.

When the egg whites are frothy, begin adding the

sugar gradually.

Continue whipping until all the sugar is added and

the meringue is shiny and forms a soft peak (a).

Reduce the mixing speed to low and incorporate

the egg yolks and vanilla extract (b).

Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold the flour/
salt mixture into the batter (c),

For ladyfingers, use a spatula io place the batter Whip the egg whites and sugar until the meringue
forms a soft peak.
in a pastry bagfitted with a medium plain
(round) tip (d)

Deposit enough batter to fill the bag 60 percent

full. Twist the open end of the bag tightly to pre-
vent seepage.

With even pressure, pipe approximately 4-inch

(10 cm) strips of batter onto the parchment-
lined pans (e).

Using a sifter or shaker, liberally dust the piped

ladyf ingers with confectioners' sugar (f).

The ladyfingers may be placed in the oven at this

point, or you can lift the parchment from the pan
and hold it in a vertical positron to remove the excess
sugar (g). The amount of sugar on the surface of the
ladyf ingers determines the crust color and contributes
to controlling the shape.

Bake until the ladyf ingers are light golden brown

and f irm, yet tender.

Using a spatula, remove the ladyfingers from the

parchment after they have cooled.

Store in an airtight container or freeze for Fill a pastry bag 60 percent full with the batter.
future use. EI
ü

ll

IUU tne egg yolks and vanilla extract. Add the flour and fold in with a spatula.
I E

d
J:m l-e F

'w
¡!;*, ':

I ,',.
^

p Pine the batter in 4-inch (1 0 cm) strips. Generously sprinkle the ladyfingers with
confectioners' sugar.
Lift the parchment paper to shake off
excess sugar, if desired.
 t

TI

BUCHE DE NOEL
BY JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER
Búche de /Voé/ is the iconic Christmas cake
associated with France. lt is universal in U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
its popularity, and the entire family can
Confectioners' sugar,
participate in its simple construction and
for dusting As needed
decoration. Although any flavor combina-
tion of cake and filling can be used, this Chocolate mousse I lb, 8.7 oz-1 lb,
version is classic vanilla and chocolate. (see page 89) 12.2 oz 700 - 800 g
Chocolate buttercream
(see page 96) 1lb,6oz 624g
Cocoa powder, for dusting As needed
Italian meringue
(see nougat recipe, page 152)

]ffiM|WlFF[(F-----'-''.'''''''."''',.,Wmililñl$ilnilfiilllllll| ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,¡lllllll$llillfr I
 to 375'F (1 e."c gas
E il:n';j "ven
or
tE l,:[::;:L'.iffi l;]:n:"ii :;.
brush off the excess confectioners'sugar.
Spread the ladyf ingers/rou lade batter
evenly on a parchment-lined half Slice one end of the cake at an
sheet pan (a, b) angle (i). Reserve the cut portion to
form a stump on the log.
Bake until the surface is light golden
brown and the edges have pulled Cover the cake with chocolate but-
away from the pan, approximately 6 to tercream (page 96) (j).
8 minutes. The cake should spring back
when touched in the center and pull away Place the stump on top of the cake
from the sides. near the uncut end of the log and
cover it with the buttercream (k).
Remove from the oven and allow to
cool at room temperature. Drag a fork through the buttercream
to create a tree-bark pattern (l).
Sift confectioners'sugar onto a sheet
of parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 200'F (93"C)
ftl
E Loosen the cake and remove from the
rnvert it onto the sugar-dusted
i#m:f' Ig ;l¿Til,XTil:Sil?lt?Íily,:ií
tip. With even pressure, and using the
Remove the baking parchment from same technique as for piping cream
the cake (d). puffs, pipe small bulbs for the caps (m).
Use a spoon to smooth out the tops, if
Spread the chocolate mousse necessary (n). With the same pressure,
(page 89) in an even layer on the pipe the stems.
exposed surface of the cake (e).
Lightly dust the mushroom caps
Grip and lift the farthest edge of the
parchment and use it to begin rolling
@ with cocoa prior to baking (o).

the filled cake into a cylinder (f).

Continue rolling by pulling the

4 Use a small amount of melted
chocolate to attach the stems
to the caps.
parchment upward and toward you,
unti I the bottom edge of the cake is cen- Bake the meringue pieces with the
tered on the bottom of the cylinder. oven door ajar until the meringue is
dry approximately I hour.
hand (g) or
IB r[ilJ:Tf ';f;'bv
cyr inder,s edgeand 0,,,,,u1,tñi??T;:ji: EEl ff:j:tr[11:T:ii:L"J
:,,..n.
the parchment away from you (h). mushrooms, and then position them on
and around the log.
Refrigerate the cake until the choco-
late mousse is set, approximately
2 to 3 hours.
 *il
-.. 1 .'f,

Pour the batter onto a parchment-lined half Snread evenly with an offset spatula.
sheet pan. I

soread chocolate mousse overthe cake. rollthe filled Tichten the cylinder by hand.
!l tr ffj1;,:TrrlilrrJ:lro.,rr E
 toosen the cake from the pan. Remove the parchment from the bottom of the cake.
!l !l

0r tighten by holding a straightedge Cut off one end of the cake at an angle. Cover the cake with chocolate
against the cake while pulling on the E buttercream.
parchment.
(continued)
 cover the stump with the buttercream. Use a fork to create a tree-bark pattern.
f! I
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.1!:::::,:p

ti¡"*--,::-.&,
w.ffiffi
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'w
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Pipe meringue for the mushroom Smooth out the tops of the caps,
caps and stems. if necessary.

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 :&i.i
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TH()MAS HAAS
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,rilllllllllllllllll
BLAGK FOREST TORTE
UPDATED CLASSIC
Black Forest torte is a staple of German
bakeries. lt is bold with the f lavors of tart U. S. lmperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
chernes, Kirschwasser, and chocolate.
Unsalted butter* 8.8 oz 248g 2sticks+ltablespoon
It isfinished with créme Chantilly, which
provides a smooth, slightly sweet, and sub- Granulated sugar 9.7 oz 276 e L % cups
tle contrast. This version incorporates sour Cocoa 3.8 oz 108 g 1 cup
cream to balance the pH of the recipe- Hot tea 6 tablespoons
assisting the leavening power of the baking Sour cream 8.8 oz 248g i cup
soda, contributing a tangy flavor, extending
Whole egg 5 large eggs
the keeping qualities, and intensifying the
"chocolate" color of the cake. Vanilla extract l tablespoon
Cake f lour 6.5 oz 185 g I:/: cuPS
Baking soda O.2oz 6o 1 teaspoon
Salt 0.1 oz Lo % teaspoon
Chocolate, f inely chopped 6.5 oz 185 g
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fa| content).
 Assemble the ingredients and allow
them to come to room temperature.

Spray two 9 x 2-inch (23 x 5cm) cake

pans with nonstick cooking spray and
line with parchment.

Preheat oven to 350"F (180"C or gas

mark4).

ln the bowl of a stand mixer f itted with

the paddle attachment, cream the
butter and sugar on medium speed until the
mixture is pale yellow, light, and fluffy.

Turn the mixer off and add the cocoa.

Mix on low speed to combine (a).

After the cocoa is i ncorporated, m ix

on medium-low speed and add the hot
tea gradually, waiting for each addition to be
incorporated before adding the next (b). This
will prevent cocoa lumps and eliminates the
fne batter will be thick after adding the cocoa.
need for the messy sifting of cocoa. p
Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and
paddle with a bowl scraper.

Add the sour cream and incorporate on

low speed.

Combine the egg and vanilla and add to

the batter while mixing on low speed.

Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl

and paddle.

Sift together the cake flour, baking

soda, and salt. Add to the batter and
mix until lust combined.

Add the chopped chocolate and mix

until just combined (c).

Divide the batter between the pre-

pared pans (d), spreading evenly (e).

Bake i n the center of the oven u nti I a

wooden pick inserted in the center of
the cakes comes out clean, approximately
22to 25 minutes.
Divide the batter between the two
prepated pans.
 Add the hot tea slowly. Add thefinely chopped chocolate.
lil !
 Add the drained cherries.

Cool and reserve (c).

Cut each cake in half horizontally,

creating four layers. Wrap one layer
in plastic and refrigerate or freeze for futur:
use.

Place one layer on a cake circle or

serving platter. Brush the layer with
a mixture of equal parts kirschwasser and
simple syrup.

Use a pastry bag to pipe concentric

circles of créme Chantilly on the cake
top. Spoon cherry f illing between the circle.
of créme Chantilly (d).

KI RSCFI/CHERRY Place a second cake layer on the

créme/cherry fi I i ng. Brush the cake
I

with the syrup mixture. Repeat step 3, ther

TORTE FILLING add a third cake layer. Brush the third layer
with the syrup mixture.

Using an icing spatula, apply a thin

coat of créme Chantilly to the top and
lngredient U. S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
sides of the cake, creating a crumb coat.
Granulated sugar 5.3 oz 150 g 3/+cup+ltablespoon
This prevents crumbs on the outside of the
+ 1 teaspoon
cake. Freeze until f irm.
Water 3.5 oz 100 g L/+cup+3tablespoons
Tart cherries in juice 1 lb, 1.6 oz 500g 1 cup+ 1 tablespoon Remove the cake from the freezer.
+ 7+ teaspoon Using an icing spatula, cover the sides
Kirschwasser Y4 cup minus 2 teaspoons and surface of the cake with an even coat oi
créme Chantilly.
Red currant jelly 4 teaspoons
Cornstarch 0.1 oz 3.6 g
Using a pastry bag fitted with a star
tip, pipe rosettes of créme Chantilly
around the top edge

ln a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the sugar, half of the water, the juice of the Rinse, drain, and dry maraschino cher-
cherries, and Kirschwasser (a). Cook over medium heat, boiling until the liquid is ries. Place the cherries on the rosettes.
reduced to a thick syrup (a), approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
lf desired, use a paper cornet to pipe
To check forthe proper consistency, place a spoonful of the syrup on a granite surface decorative melted chocolate on the
or a chilled white plate. When the syrup is cool, pull a spoon through it. lf the streak
from the spoon remains open, the syrup is ready (b).
Apply chocolate shavings to the sides
Add the red currant jelly to the pot and melt over medium heat. of the torte.

Make a slurry with the remaining water and cornstarch. Add it to the boiling cherry/ Freeze until 30 minutes prior to
syrup mixture. Cook until thick and clear, approximately 3 to 4 minutes, service.
 ti
li
ir
l

Add the juice of the chenies and boil until thickened. Test the consistency of the syrup.
El E

nemove cherry mixture from heat and tet cool. Assemblins the torte.
!l lll
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
m-t'''
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.
rsr's

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"fr paetrq chel iq 4omeone who

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r'
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nuqt hüte th@ndnranee and the
courale to dedieale h¡q l¡le to one
d'Itq pafh. fi paatrt¡ chel nuqf have
s. "\d
a etryg work efhie and proper
t* :-Ó , have receptíVe 4en4e4,
to traín h¡q or h¿r
e."
 THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

INTERVIEW WITH KIM PARK

Translated by 0k-Kyung Choo, BS, iVlA
 w
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I:..!swi:.r3f ;
.;i.. -t
'e€

MADELEINES
BY KIM PARK
What if Proust had never tasted or writ-
ten about madeleines? Would they be as
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
popular as they are now? Actually, mad-
Unsalted butter, for molds* As needed
eleines were a favorite treat in high society
Versailles in the early 1700s. They may be Unsalted butter 6oz I7O g L 7z sticks
baked lightly for a tender cake or baked to a Bread flour 4oz 113 g '/z cup
darker color for a drier, more f lavorf ul cake Pastry f lour 4oz i13g '/- cup
with a slightly crisp crust to be dipped in Baking powder O.2 oz 5o 1 tablespoon
coffee or tea.
Salt O.2 oz 6o % teaspoon
Whole egg** 5 oooc
Granulated sugar 6oz 170 c 3/+
Cup
Vanilla bean i bean
Recipe notes: *Use European-style butter (minimum 82%fat content).
**Eggs should be at room temperature.
 *3.:::

Melt a small amount of butter Use a spatula to place the

and leave in a cool place to mixture in a pastry bag f itted
th icken. with a medium plain (round) tip.

Brush madeleine molds with Using medium pressure, pipe

thickened butter (a). Set aside. the mixture into the prepared
molds (f).
Preheat oven to 400'F (200"C
or gas mark 6). For symmetrica I madelei nes
without the traditional hump,
Melt the 6 ounces (170 e) of bake directly. For madeleines with a
butter and reserve. hump, refrigerate the filled pans for
7r/zhours prior to baking. Alterna-
Sift together the f lours, baking tively, the batter may be refrigerated
powder, and salt. Reserve. for 172 hours and then piped into the
molds.
ln the bowl of a stand mrxer
fitted with the whip attachment, When ready to bake, preheat
'iryii:,,
whip the eggs and sugar until they are oven to 400'F (200"C or gas
pale yellow, thick, and form a ribbon mark 6) oven and bake until golden
when you lift the whip (b). brown, approximately 13 to 15
minutes.
Scrape the vanilla bean and add
scrapings to the mixture. While they are still warm, tap Brush the madeleine molds with butter.

the molds on a solid surface to

Remove the whip attachment remove the madeleines (g).
and replace it with the paddle
attachment. (This prevents incorpo- When the madeleines are
rating excess air, which would affect cool, dust with confectioners'
the texture of the baked madeleines.) sugar (h),

Continue to mix on low speed,

adding the sifted flour mixture
gradually (c).

Remove one-third of the

mixture from the bowl and stir
the melted 6 ounces (170 d of butter
into it (d).

Add the butter/batter mixture

to the batter remaining in the
bcwland mix lightly (e).

Combine the butter mixture w¡th the

remaining batter.
 E

Add the sifted flour mixture t0 the batter,

El tr il[Hfr:iTd
butter into one-third

# é
*4"é'
.0 strips
fl Pine the batter in 4-inch cm)
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 &
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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
 i,ll

.e
É

-#

MARSHMALLOWS
BY ANIL ROHIRA
Untilyou've had a marshmallow made
the old-fashioned way, you might not fully U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume
understand the cult of marshmallow lovers.
Sheet gelatin I Z sheets
An artisan-made marshmallow is smooth,
light, flavorful, a bit chewy, and creamy. lce water, strained l cup minus l tablespoon
They are a study in subtlety and nuance. Vanilla bean 2 beans
Nothing overwhelms, nothing is over Water l cup minus l tablespoon
the top. And yet, they render the eater G I ucose 9.9 oz 28I g
speech less.
Granulated sugar 1lb,9oz 708c
Salt 0.05 oz 1.5 c 7a teaspoon

Cornstarch 6oz I70 g "/s cup

Confectioners'sugar 6oz I70 g I)/a cup
 llll
t:

,il

u
Line a half-sheet pan with Spray a second silicone
a silicone baking mat. baking mat with nonstick it{i

Spray the mat with nonstick cooking spray. Place the

cooking spray. Set aside. sprayed side on the surface of
the marshmallow and use a
Place the gelatin in the nontapered rolling pin to rollthe
bowl of a stand mixer mass f lat and even (f). Remove
and cover with the strained ice the second baking mat. rfr!

water. Soak for ten minutes. irl

Set the pan aside and

Add the scrapings of the reserve at room tempera-
vanilla beans. ture untilfirm, at least 3 to 4 'ii
lrll

hours. For optimum results,

Using the whip attach- leave the pan overnight.
ment, whip the gelatin/
water/vanilla mixture on low Sift together the corn-
speed. starch and confectioners'
sugar. Sift some of the mixture
ltl

ln a heavy-bottomed pot, onto a flat cutting surface (g). l

cook the water, glucose,

and sugar to 238"F (2I4'C) (a).
.
Remove the marshmal- i,l

Then add the salt. low from the pan and

lil

place it on the sifted starch/

Slowly pour the syrup sugar mixture. Sift more of the Check the temperature of the glucose mixture with
starch/sugar mixture on top of a thermometer.
into the gelatin mixture,
being caref ul to avoid the whip the marshmallow slab (h).
and the sides of the bowl (b).
Spray the blade of a large
After all the syrup has chef's knife with non-
been added, increase the stick cooking spray, Continue
mixing speed to medium-high. wiping and spraying the knife
as needed during the cutting
Continue whipping until process.
the mixture is cool, thick,
and spreadable, approximately Trim the edges of the
12 to 15 minutes (c). marshmallow and cut
into even squares (i, j).
Remove the mixture
from the bowl and Toss the cut marshmal-
spread it evenly in the prepared lows in the remaining
pan (d, e). starch/sugar m ixture (k).

Pour the marshmallow mixture onto the

prepared baking pan.

ü
 SlowlV nour the syrup into the whipped gelatin mixture. Note the consistency of the finished marshmallow mixture.
I E

ftr:1-

L
.3ta@.

Spread the marshmallow evenly using an offset spatula. Using a rolling pin and a silicone baking mat,
E roll over the marshmallow until it is flat and even.

(conti n ued)
 ,tl
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s '¡,.'.::r,:ffi
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Sift more of the confectioners' sugar Slice the marshmallow into long strips.
mixture on top of the marshmallow. E

Slice aSain, crosswise into squares. Toss the marshmallow squares with
I remain¡ng starcly'sugar mixture.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
MILK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
BY EWALD NOTTER
Truff les are named for their resemblance to
U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight the mushroomlike delicacy. With care and
respect, they are easy to produce in their
M i I k chocolate couverature Llb,4oz 567 g
simplest form: a ganache made from cream
Heavy cream 1 cup
and chocolate and a coating of tempered
Glucose Ioz 28e Ve cup chocolate. Without otherflavorings, such
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting as liqueurs, nuts, spices, etc., there is
Milk chocolate couverature, for dipping nothing to interfere with the pure f lavor of
chocolate. Most chocolate manufacturers
are producing high-quality milk chocolate
in which the chocolate is not masked or
overwhelmed bythe addition of milk and
sugar. The label will indicate the percent-
age of cocoa butter and cacao solids. Look
for a percentage ranging from 33 to 38
percent or higher.
 Chop the I lb, 4 oz(567 g) of couvera-
ture and place in a bowl.

E ;::ü.ffi ,'Jffi: ;:i# :;';i jx,

to a boil.

Pour the cream/glucose mixture over

the chopped couverature (a).

Stir smooth with a spatula (b).

Cover and cool to room temperature.

When the ganache is cool and set, use

a rubber spatula to stir the mixture
until it lightens in texture and color (c).

Place the mixture in a pastry bag

fitted with a medium plain (round) tip
(d) and pipe 3/q-inch (1 .9 cm) rounds on a
parchment-lined sheet pan (e). Pour the hot cteam/glucose mixture over the chopped chocolate.
E
Refrigerate untilfirm. When the
ganache is f irm, remove the pan from
the refrigerator

Wearing latex or vinyl gloves dusted

with confectioners' sugar, hand-roll
the piped ganache into small spheres (f).

Return the spheres to the pan and

return the pan to the refrigerator.

#
fr
f,

[,

li
l

tl

lr

li
Place eanache in a pastry bag.
I I
 Stir smooth with a spatula. Stir the Canache until it lightens in texture and color.
El El
, r:*{Éi,. r.,

p fine rounds of ganache onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Hand+oll the ganache into spheres.

:
I
!
t (continued)
I
I
¡
 Temper more couverature (see page
27 for instructions on tempering
chocolate).

Remove the truff les from the

refrigerator.

Using gloved hands, spread a small

amount of tempered couverature on
your palms

Rol I the spheres gently to coat

evenly (g).

Return the truffles to the sheet pan

and leave at room temperature to let
the couverature set.

Using a dipping fork, dip the truff les

in the remaining tempered milk
couverature.

Return the truffles to the sheet pan

and allow the couverature to set (h). Coat the spheres with tempered c0uverature.
E
lf desired, the truffles may be rolled
across a wire screen after dipping for
a spiked appearance. While the couverature
is soft, place the truffles on a cooling screen
or grid. Use the tip of dippingfork or a par-
ing knife to roll the truffle across the grid to
form the spikes.

Truffles after the couverature has set.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
LAUREN V. HAAS
NOUGAT
BY LAUREN V. HAAS
Variations of nougat are made in European
communities as a means to celebrate and U.S. lmperialWeight Meüic Weight Volume
preserve the f lavors of spring and summer.
Dried blueberries 4.6 oz 130 g I cup
This recipe uses ltalian meringue to
provide structure, consistency, and shelf Pistachios 6oz I7O e 1 7+ cups

life to a chewy, creamy celebration of local Candied violet petals 3oz 859 3/+ cup
ingredients Freeze-dried strawberries, chopped 1.7 oz 6ño Yz cup
Salt Pi nch Pinch Pi nch

U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight Volume

Dried egg white O.4 oz 1og I tablespoon
Granulated sugar 14.4 oz 410 g 1% cups
Fresh egg white 1% egg whites
Honey I cup
Glucose syrup Vz cup
Water 6 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
Vanilla bean 1 bean 1 bean 1 bean
Cocoa butter, melted I.8 oz 5og
Rose water 2 teaspoons
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
Tempered couverture for dipping (optional, page27)
 Prepare the inclusions: Gently stir together the
inclusions in a heatproof bowl and place in a warm
oven (a). The rnclusions should remain warm so they
can be evenly distributed throughout the nougat during
kneading.

Prepare the nougat base: Blend the dried egg

white with 1 ounce (30 g or 2 tablespoons) of the
sugar and combine with the fresh egg whites in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment.

Place the honey in a heavy-bottomed pot and heat

lo 248F (120'C). When the temperature of the
honey reaches 225"F (IO8"C), begin whipping the egg
whites on medium speed.

When the honey reaches 248"F (I20"C), pour it

o+D-t
F ' '' slowly into the egg whites (b), continuing to whip

*-.*-r*
¡

?_ t'S Meanwhile, combine the remaining sugar, glucose,

water, and vanilla bean scrapings in a separate
heavy-bottomed pot and heat to 3 1 1'F ( I 55"C).

Add the rose water to the sugar syrup and pour

'ae- i::: slowly into the egg whites as you continue to whip,
taking care to avoid getting syrup on the whip or on the
-lo ff*.
t sides of the bowl.

l==G=* e U Tilffir:the
mixing speed to high, and whip for

El.
Hr
k 1A
Add the melted cocoa butter and blend thoroughly
o'"é (c). Warm the exterror of the mixing bowl with a
kitchen torch, if necessary, to prevent any lumping of
the cocoa butter (d).

Dust a flat work surface with confectioners' sugar.

Remove the nougat from the mixing bowl, placing
it on the sugared work surface, and gently add the
warmed inclusions (e).

.{
Fold and knead the mass until the inclusions are
s
well distributed (f).

Ld*
" ,l#.,%'
#
Place the nougat between two nonstick baking
. ."-* # mats, With a rolling pin, roll ihe nougat into a
9 x 12-inch (23 x 30 cm)rectangle (g).
F%%f, F
li.
g:l
Let the nougat cool at room temperature. When

' ,
'
ssf
.'i*
ffi, cool, cut into desired shapes (h).

The cut pieces may be dipped in tempered

couverture (i).
 Combine the inclusions priorto warming. Add the honey to whipped egg whites.
I E

-4ñ

Add the warmed inclusions. Fold in the inclusions.

 Add the melted cocoa The finished nougat mixture.
E !l

I
Roll the nougat between nonstick mats
E
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
WILLIAM LEAMAN
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
WITLIAM TEAMAN
 I

*r,,uri,r,'njllllltillffi I
VANILLA BEAN MACARONS WITH
MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE
BYWILLIAM LEAMAN
Macarons have become the darl i ng of pas-
try aficionados-and for good reason. The U.S. lmperialWeight Metric Weight
chewy shells are an excellent vehicle for
Almond flour 10.6 oz 300 g 3 cups
carrying the f lavors and textures of sweet
minus 1 tablespoon
and savory fillings. With a little practice,
+ 1 teaspoon
they are quite simple to produce. This is
one of the few pastries that is made in a Confectioners' sugar 10.6 oz 300g 2r/zcups+ 1 tablespoon
variety of colors. Displays of different + % teaspoon
colored macarons brighten any pastry Vanilla bean 3 beans
presentati on. Egg white 7 egg whites
Granulated sugar 10.6 oz 300 e 1% cup
%cup+ 1 tablespoon
Chocolate ganache (see page 145) I recipe
 {

.,,;:i!ff'
Combine the almond Continue folding until the ;l
f lour and confectioners' mixture rs homogenous, ,!,:

sugar. Sift together (a). Add the soft, shiny, and flows evenly off t
scrapings of the vanilla beans. the spatula (f).
(Alternatively, for a smoother
macaroon, you may grind the Using a spatula, deposit .€
almond f lour, confectioners' the batter in a pastry bag
-.i
fitted with a medium plain
sugar, and vanilla bean scrap-
\-- c
ings in a food processorfitted
with the blade attachment and
(round) tip. Twist the open end
of the bag tightly to seal.
ljr
then sift.)
Using even, medium-
Mix three egg whrtes with firm pressure, pipe
the sifted f lour mixture to 2-inch (5 cm) rounds onto
form a smooth paste. silicone baking mats (g).

Place the remaining three Set aside at room tem-

egg whites in the bowl of a perature until the surface
stand mixer f itted with the whip dries, approximately 30 to 60
attachment. Begin whipping minutes
slowly. The egg white should be
frothy at this stage. Preheat oven to 200"F
(93"C or just below gas
Meanwhile, place the mark Yr). Sift the almond flour and confectioners' sugar.
granulated sugar and water
I
in a heavy-boüomed pot and Bake approximately 11
cook to a temperature of 246"F to 12 minutes. The sur-
(119'C), brushingthe sides of face of the macarons should be
the pot with a wet brush to pre- firm and dry, and the macarons
vent sugar crystallization (c). will have "feet" (h).

Continue whipping the egg Cool completely before

white on low speed while removing from the bak-
slowly adding the cooked syrup, ing mats
being careful to avoid getting
syrup on the sides of the bowl lnveft half of the maca-
and the whip (d). rons.

After all of the syrup Make a slight depression

has been incorporated, in the center of the invert-
increase the mixing speed to ed macarons with your thumb to
medium high and whip until allow for more f illing (i).
the sides of the bowl are cool
to the touch. The meringue Pipe the softened milk
will be glossy, firm, and form chocolate ganache onto
a medium peak. the inverted macarons (j). The
ganache should be soft enough
Fold one-third of the me- to spread to, but not over, the
ngue i nto the f lour/sugar
ri uu5v.
paste. I ncorporate thoroughly.
Fold in another third of the Place the remaining
meringue and incorporate thor- macarons on top of the SlowlV nour the syrup into the whipped egg whites.
oughly. Fold in the final third of ganache and gently press to !l
the meringue (e). adhere (k).
 Note the cons¡stency of the battet after adding the egg white' Brush down the sides of the pot with a wet pastry brush while
M cooking the sugar syruP.

q
¿
b.' i
t
::ii:ilt1l

i.:;ait

Note the consistency of the f inal batter.

fotl one-third of the meringue into the flout/sugar paste'
!l ¡l
(conti n ued )
 s:

t
¿
"i¡
b
"6

t..

Pipe 2-inch (5 cm) rounds The baked macarons. Use your thumb t0 make an indentation i:
onto baking mats. half of the macarons.

,s
jg
F..ii!:t:::':. "%e"
;É#:',:,:¡':'" '

Pine Sanache into the indentations. Place the tops on the macarons
I and press to adhere.
THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE
DACQUOISE AU CHOCOLAT
BY LAURENT BRANLARD
Dacquoise au chocolatis a studY in
contrasts. lt has a simple, understated
appearance: one disc, dusted with pow- Almond flour 2.8o2 80g
dered sugar, f loating on a layer of creamy 2.8o2 8og
Confectioners' sugar
chocolate filling above a second disc. A 3 egg whites
Egg white
crisp texture turns chewy as it melds with
the smooth chocolate. Large versions are Granulated sugar I.I oz 3og
sliced in wedges, like a cake or tart. lndi- Chocolate Mousse (see Page 89)
I recipe
vidual units may be picked up by hand' Chocolate Ganache (see Page 145)
l recipe
1 recipe
Créme ChantillY (see Page 17)
 Preheat oven to 390'F (1 99'C or gas Bake until the discs are golden and
mark 6). the edges are firm, approximately 15
minutes. Finish baking with the oven door
Draw two 8-inch (20 cm) circles on a slightly open for 1 or 2 minutes to dry out
sheet of baking parchment. lnvert the the discs. (The discs should be quite dry
parchment and place on a f lat sheet pan. because they will contain a moist f illing.)

Sift together the almond flour and Let cool, then remove the discs from
confectioners' sugar (a)' Reserve' TB the baking pan and trim the edges
with a paring knife if they are too dark and/
ln the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with or dry.
the whip attachment, whiP the egg
whites on medium sPeed.

When the egg white is frothY and

E Place one of the discs on a serving
tray and pipe chocolate mousse
(page 89) or whipped milk chocolate
foamy, add the sugar slowlY while ganache (page 145) around the edge in a
continuing to mix on medium sPeed' decorative pattern (e). Pipe créme Chantilly
or chocolate mousse into the center (fl.
Whip to a soft Peak. The meringue
should be glossY and firm. Place a disc on toP of the f illing
(g) and dust with confectioners'
Fold in the sifted flour-sugar mixture sugar (h).
(b). Fold quickly and efficiently to
prevent deflating the foam (c). Decorate with a rosette of the
reserved filling. Garnish as desired

E l;liñi:!?li:l flff:'l:ilffi:il' E
(round) tip' :1",. and serve at room tempera-
ture. This pastry is best served the day it is

g3[I.,[:'fi;:i;:'ffi::liiJn made

the drawn circles, beginning on the outside

edge (d).
 f

I
Sitt tne almond f lour and confectioners' sugar. Fold the flour-sugar mixture ¡nto the meringue.
I

""" w
''4+..

f
*á
:.

lto**

eine chocolate mousse or whipped ganache around the baked edge. Fill in the center with crdme Chantilly or chocolate mousse.
¡¡ E

.. .,.....¡ú4Dqrrnrnrru¡¡lrrr¡l¡li¡l¡t,li .
unñt
..
 "'* i&

eine circles of batter onto prepared parchment'

Note the consistency of the finished batter.
El lll

'nfr
i. .:. :
r :!si:i .

,,?,

.,;;:it¡il :,'::."$:

Pipe a rosefte of reserued filling in

Place the second disc on top of the filling. susar over the top of
El tr ill ;:fftj;;;trs' the center.
RESOURCES
TOOLS AND EOUIPMENT EDUCATION The Notter School, Orlando, Florida
Professional programs for professionals
ONLINE SOURCES FOR INGREDIENTS SCHOOTS OFFERING CONCENTRATED and serious home bakers overseen by world
AND SMALL WARES COURSES FOR SERIOUS PASTRY champion Ewald Notter
CO()KS www.notterschool.com
www.bakedeco.com
Quality supplies, tools, and equipment At-Sunrice Global Chef Academy, Richemont Fachshule,
Singapore Lucerne, Switzerland
www.bridgekitchenware.com Professional training and weekend classes Professional and advanced trai n i ng
A wide variety of cookware and accessories for enthusiasts programs
www.at-su n rice.com http ://ric he m o nt. zynex. ch/en lO5 _agbl
wwwchef rubber.com content. htm
Colorants, transfer sheets, tools, and CAST Alimenti, La Scuola Cucina,
eq u ipment Brescia, ltaly San Francisco Baking lnstitute,
Italian culinary school for professionals and So. San Francisco, California
www.chef sresource.com serious cooks Professional and weekend baking programs
Tools, gadgets, cookware, and small www.castalimenti. it www.sfbi.com
appliances
The French Pastry School, Chicago, lllinois Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School,
www.fantes.com World-class pastry chef instructors for Brunswick, VlC, Australia
professional and dedicated home cooks I nternational ly trained award-winning chefs
Dependable source for cooks'wares since
1906 www.f rench pastryschool.com give instruction in making modern and
exquisite chocolates and pastries
www. jbprince.com lnternational Baking Academy, www.savourschool.com.au
Baking mats, bags, pastry cutters, tools, Weinheim, Germany
and more German Bread and Pastry Program
www.akadem ie-wei n hei m.de/i nternational- PERIODICALS
www. le-sanctuaire,com academy.html
Herbs, spices, books, and small electrics café-sweets
Johnson & Wales Universit¡ Providence, Japanese pastry magazi ne
www.oldwi I knotsca les.com
I Rhode lsland; Denver, Colorado; Miami, www.amazon.co. jp
Scales for every professional Florida; Charlotte, North Carolina
Associates and Bachelor's Degrees Dessert Professional
wwwpastrychef .com available, continuing education, and www.dessertprofessiona l.com
Professional-grade tools and high-qual ity Chef 's Choice classes for weekend warriors
ingred ients www.jwu.edu Le Journal du Patissier
www. jou rna d u patiss er.f r
I i

www.pastryitems.com The King Arthur Flour Education,

Pastry cutters, baking mats, baking sheets, Norwich, Vermont Pastry and Baking North America; Pastry
scales, and appliances An ever expanding and rotating selection of and Baking Asia Pacific
classes for baking aficionados www.pastryna.com
www. k i n ga rth u rf lo u r. com/ba ki ng/
LITERATURE Paticceria I nternazionale
The Lenotre Culinary and Pastry School, www. pasticceriai nternaziona le. it
www.chipsbooks.com Plaisir, France
Professional training and advanced classes SoGood...
www jessicasbiscuit.com www. Ienotre.f r/en/ecoles_lenotre. ph p www.sogood magazi ne.com

www. kitchenartsand letters.com

wwwquarrybooks,com
CONTRIBUTORS
Kanjiro Mochizuki Ewald Notter
Japan Switzerland
www.notterschool.com
Frederic Deshayes
France Lauren V. Haas
USA

Italy William Leaman

www, igi n io-massari.com/en USA
www. bakerynouveau.com
Sebastien Rouxel
France Laurent Branlard
France
En-Ming Hsu www.sheratonch icago.com/l b/pdfs/la u-
USA rent_bran lard_bio. pdf

FranzZiegler
Switzerland
www.franzziegler.ch

Thaddeus DuBois
USA

Kirsten 'l'ibballs
Australia
www.savourschool.com.au

RobeÉ Ellinger
USA

Jordi PuigveÉ Colomer

Spain
www. sweetngo. com/ski n/porta l. aspx

Thomas Haas
Germany
www.thomashaas.com

Kim Park
(Kim, Deok-Kyu)
South Korea

Anil Rohira
lndia
Nathan Mitchell Stamm is an associate
instructor in the lnternational Baking and
Pastry lnstitute within the College of Culi-
nary Arts at Johnson & Wales, Providence,
Rhode lsland. His area of specialization is
artisan baking. He studied at Dunwoody
Technical College in Minneapolis; the
French Pastry School in Chicago; the San
Francisco Baking lnstitute in San Francis-
co; and L'ecole Lenotre in Plasir, France.

ln 2006, he won the silver medal and was

recognized for best workmanship at the
National Bread and Pastry Championship.
ln 2008, he won the award for artistic
design atthe National Bread and Pastry
Championship.

H is work has been featured in Dessert

Professional, Modern Baking, Rhode lsland
Monthly, Pastry's 8es1 and Pastry and Bak-
ing North America. He is a consultant for
bakeries and manufacturers as well.

Favorite color: bread

Ultimaie goal: to be a Southern
gentleman-it's a work in progress
'%"

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