Water Cistern Construction
Water Cistern Construction
Water Cistern Construction
Introduction
This publication is one of nine that has been translated from Norwegian. They are taken from a series of publications produced
by the Norwegian Building Research Institute (NBI) series, “Byggdetaljer,” which literally translated means “building details.”
The translations were done by Dr. Nils Johanson and Richard D. Seifert of the University of Alaska Fairbanks with the cooperation
and permission of NBI, Oslo, Norway. The financial support for the translations and printing came through the Alaska Department
of Community and Regional Affairs, from USDOE Grant DE-FG06-80CS6908. The publications use the original index code of
the Norwegian “Byggdetaljer” series so that specific translations can be directly cited. All questions on these translations should
be directed to Richard D. Seifert, Cooperative Extension Service, P.O. Box 756180, University of Alaska Fairbanks, Fairbanks,
Alaska 99775-6180. Phone: 907-474-7201
Figure 122
Installation of gutter
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20 – 30 m3 (5,000 to 7,000 gal) where 1m3 is 1000 L. 217 Vinyl cloth or polyethylene can also be used as a liner
For cabins and seasonally occupied buildings, the neces- material in cisterns. The storage tank can be buried or
sary volume generally ranges from 500 to 3,000 gal. stand above ground (Figure 25).
212 Cistern volume should be determined by the local 22 Placement
average annual precipitation and the available Placement of cisterns depends on local site conditions.
collection surfaces. The tank should be protected against heat, mechanical
loads, and so on. When installations will be used year-
Two inches of precipitation yields one gallon of water per
round, winter freeze protection for both the foundation
square foot of collection surface. The collection surface
and the water supply system must be considered. Figure
is measured horizontally. For a roof, it is the floor area of
22 shows some placement possibilities.
the house plus the area of eave overhang. A good rule of
thumb is to subtract about 10% of the calculated water
volume to allow for loss by flushing, overflow, and so on.
213 The shape of the cistern should allow for easy placement
and maintenance. Divide the cistern into several separate
compartments so that water flow will enhance
bacteriological self–cleaning. For systems designed for
year-round use, it is necessary to have a minimum of two
separate tanks so that cleaning and maintenance can be
done without having to empty the cistern. All cisterns
must have a manhole lid in order to clean the entire
internal surface.
214 The construction material for the cistern must be water
tight. In addition, the inside surface must not give off
substances that make the water unsuitable for drinking.
Traditionally, poured concrete systems have been the Figure 22
rule, but lately prefabricated systems made of plastic or Examples of placement of systems.
glass fiber–reinforced polyester are popular. These
systems are especially the well–suited for summer houses, 221 In the case of seasonal use or installations where there is
cabins, and seasonal-use buildings. no electricity, the tanks should be placed so that gravity
feed can be used to deliver the water. This can be
215 Poured concrete cisterns are generally used for buildings accomplished by placing the cistern in sloping terrain, in
which have year-round occupancy. The shape is totally the attic, or on a support under the eaves. The water can
arbitrary and, with careful design, the cistern will blend be pumped by hand from the cistern to a day tank in the
into the overall landscaping. The year-round cistern attic or to another place higher than the outlet pump
must be protected against freezing to avoid leaks and to (Figure 221)
assure a continual water supply throughout the winter. If
the concrete cistern is buried, groundwater must not The cistern can be placed underneath the building in the
penetrate the cistern. On frost susceptible soils, cracks in basement or buried outside for some freeze protection.
the cistern may occur, increasing the danger of ground-
water infiltration. See recommendations for placing of
poured cisterns (Figure 22).
216 Prefabricated tanks of plastic are an appropriate cistern
solution. Plastic materials are usually maintenance–free
and tight enough that they can be buried. There are
several cistern types on the market. They vary in shape
and hold up to 1000 gal of water. Some manufacturers
deliver larger tanks by special order. To obtain good
storage capability and to avoid emptying when cleaning,
it is necessary to put the tanks in series or to have several
separate tanks. The price of prefabricated cisterns will
generally decrease with size on a relative cost-per-gallon Figure 221
basis, the larger the cistern, the cheaper the per gallon Schematic drawing for a gravity–fed pressure system with a
cost. (This also is true for special orders up to 20 or 30 m3.) cistern pump and a day tank.
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222 If the cistern is buried as shown in Figure 222, the fill
material must be packed in tightly around the tank,
especially the lower quarter of the tank. Fill material,
such as sand or gravel with a diameter of less than 0.5
in can be used. Mechanically crushed rock must not be
used. Nor should fill material that contains frost–
susceptible material such as clay be used. If the cistern
is subjected to uplift pressure due to a high groundwater
table, it must be secured. Avoid placing the cistern
where there will be mechanical loads, such as vehicle
traffic, on the tank.
Figure 232
Cistern built partly above ground.
Figure 222
Schematic drawing for placement and backfill of buried cistern. 233 The concrete should be C-20 1:2.5:2.5 (cement/sand/
23 Cisterns cast in place gravel). Use clean aggregate with a maximum diameter
of 25mm (1 in). The floor is poured, compacted, and
231 The container should be constructed at one end of the leveled after the initial set. Smooth it with wood and
house for ease in collecting water from downspouts on steel trowels. When the forms are removed, after
either side of the roof. There must be a lid for each about a week, cover the interior and exterior walls
chamber with an opening of .7m x .7m (2 ft x 2 ft). The with a mixture of cement and fine sand. (The walls can
lids must be lockable. also be polished and smoothed with steel trowels
instead of being covered with a layer of cement mortar.
The bottom of the container must have a gradient of 1 This will ease the cleaning process.)
to 50 to a drain so that the container can be totally
emptied of water. The container must be buried at a There are additives that can be added to the mortar to
frost-free depth, and in many locations, the walls and reduce water penetration.
roof must be insulated (see point 3). The container
must never be placed where the water from a sewer 24 Masonry cisterns
line can infiltrate the system. Cisterns can be made of masonry, such as lightweight
concrete. Special blocks are used that have room for
232 A tank with crawl space over the concrete deck is mortar and reinforcement (Figure 24).
shown in figure 232. The roof water is directed from
the downspouts over the tank’s inclined roof to the The inside of the cistern is covered with a good cement
intake box. Between the container and the wooden mortar and the surface is coated with a water–sealing
walls of the house, there must be a water–tight barrier layer. The watersealing layer can also be added directly
made of roof tar paper with the joints glued together to the mortar.
(Figure 232). Ensure good drainage under and around
the container so that contaminated or polluted water
cannot penetrate. The terrain must always slope away
from the container to ensure drainage.
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Figure 26 a
Examples of GAP cisterns
Figure 24
Cistern made of lightweight concrete
31 Placement
Figure 311
Frost protection using the soil geothermal heat (in
nonpermafrost areas only).
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312 If the cistern is placed on solid rock, significant 314 In maritime coastal climates there are often large
warming by the soil is not likely and the bottom must variations in temperature during the winter. With a
usually be insulated (Figure 312a). If the cistern cover large, insulated, year-around cistern, the stored heat in
is more than 8 to 10 square meters (80 - 100 sq ft) it the water will often be sufficient to prevent freezing
may be advantageous to insulate as shown in figure during a short cold period. If the cold period is
311. Boards of extruded polystyrene are recommended prolonged, freezing will usually start at the coldest
for this application because they resist moisture and surfaces. By placing the intake a bit above the bottom
normal loads. As small a surface area as possible is of the cistern, longer frost-free operation can be
recommended. Cylindrical cisterns should be insulated maintained. The intake pipe should be insulated and
with batt insulation (Figure 312b). heated with a heat tape. The heat tape can be threaded
inside the pipe or wrapped around it. If thermostatically
controlled, 2 to 4 watts per meter might be sufficient.
If the heat tape itself can be frozen, then freezing can
take place, and the heat tape can be used as a thaw
cable. This type of heat tape can be operated manually
and should have a capacity of 25 watts per meter. See
Figure 314. In a well–insulated installation thawing
will take about 30 minutes. The electricity must be
shut off after thawing to avoid overheating.
Figure 312a
Frost protection of cistern on rock.
Figure 312b
Frost protection of prefabricated cisterns above ground. Figure 314
Placement and frost protection of intake pipe in the cistern with
temperature sensor in the outside air.
313 If the cistern is excavated down to a frost free depth,
frost problems are avoided. However, this in itself
leads to several other problems, such as difficulties in 315 Heating with a thermostatically controlled heat tape
cleaning, and may not be practical. A better solution will afford good protection against freezing. The tape
would be to insulate the ground above the cistern as is placed in loops on the tank bottom and intake and
shown in figure 313. The necessary depth of soil cover wired to an automatic thermostat that will turn on at
will depend on the thickness and the extent of the the appropriate temperature (Figure 314 and 315). A
insulation. well–insulated cistern will need heat tape with a
capacity of about 10 watts per square meter of surface.
There are two main types of heat tape. Traditional
cables have a fixed resistance per length. If the
electricity is used directly, the cable can be used in a
fixed length. If a change in length is desired, use a
transformer. There are also self–regulating cables that
can be cut to the desired length without changing the
heating capacity. A transformer is unnecessary. The
heating increases with a decrease in temperature in
such cables. The temperature sensor is placed inside
the cistern and the tape will operate whenever the
temperature is below freezing (Figure 315).
Figure 313
Frost protection of cistern buried in soil.
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4 MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION
41 Cleaning
Regular cleaning of the cistern is necessary to maintain
pure, potable water. Microbiological activity in the
sediments causes a slime-like substance to grow on
the inside of the cistern. The growth increases with
temperature and the coating will, if not removed
regularly, impart taste to the water. Cleaning is usually
done once a year. Use a stiff brush, water, and baking
Figure 315
Frost protection of cistern with heat tape.
soda. Finally, wash the area with ample amounts of
The temperature sensor is placed inside the cistern. clean water. Careful cleaning of the collection area
(the roof and downspouts) along with a good intake
316 Sediment traps, filters, and plumbing must be secured filter and cold storage, can lengthen the time between
against freezing. Cold temperatures and snow on the the cleaning. Summer cisterns must always be cleaned
roof, combined with solar heat and snow melt during by emptying and decommissioning at the end of the
the day, can lead to a frozen filter system. Figure 316 season. The cistern openings should be plugged after
shows the filter insulated together with the cistern. If cleaning for winter storage.
this causes problems, the filter can be insulated
separately and heated with heat tapes. Problems can 411 Gutters and pipes normally require no maintenance
also be solved by allowing roof water to bypass the but must be cleaned, usually in both the spring and the
filter outside the cistern in the winter season. If the fall. Cleaning should be part of the maintenance routine
filter and cistern temperatures are above freezing, a whenever the filter is checked.
positive heat flow in the downspout will occur and
prevent freezing. 412 When decommissioning summer cisterns, the
downspout must be vented to the ground in the normal
way. Excess water spray can cause the building to rot.
5 REFERENCES
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Visit the Cooperative Extension Service web site at
www.uaf.edu/coop-ext