Dimensional Stability
Dimensional Stability
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Gülseren Kurumer
Dokuz Eylul University
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1
Pamukkale University, Buldan Vocational College, Denizli, Turkey, e-mail: mkalkanci@pau.edu.tr
2
Adnan Menderes University, Department of Computer Engineering, Aydın, Turkey.
3
Dokuz Eylül University, Department of Textile Engineering, Izmir, Turkey.
ABSTRACT
When anti-shrinkage precaution is taken for finishing processes, shrinkage could be observed with cotton and viscose fabrics by 8-
15% and 20%, respectively. Therefore, capability of estimation of shrinkage rate for fabrics at the end of finishing would be a significant
advantage. This study tried to estimate the shrinkage of single jersey and interlock fabrics at the end of relaxation processes by means of
the Artificial Neural Networks (ANN). To that end totally 72 varieties of fabric were manufactured in two groups of the elastane and the
non-elastane fabrics. Then, in each of two groups included 36 different varieties on the basis of single jersey and interlock weaving types
using six different raw materials in three different densities. The processes were applied to fabrics during finishing process are thermo-
fixing, washing, drying and sanforizing process. ANN model was used to predict dimensional change at the end of the sanforizing. For
ANN, the two-layer feed-forward perceptron, also called single hidden layer feed-forward neural network was used to estimate
dimensional change of width and length. Finally, the ANN exhibited successful performance in prediction of dimensional change in
fabrics. The prediction of the dimensional properties produced by the neural network model was proved to be highly reliable (R2> 0.98).
Keywords: Dimensional change, ANN, estimation, finished fabric, finishing
Activity / Tested
Measurement Point No Test Standard Measurement Point
Characteristics
Course Density Right After Process in the Machine
1 TS EN 14971
Measurement After Dry Relaxation
Wale Density Right After Process in the Machine
2 TS EN 14971
1.Raw Fabric (Knitted Measurement After Dry Relaxation
Fabric) Areal Density Right After Process in the Machine
3 TS 251
Measurement After Dry Relaxation
Right After Process in the Machine
4 Fabric Roll Width -
After Dry Relaxation
After Drying
1 Dimensional Change TS EN ISO 3759- 2009
After Sanforizing
2.Finished Fabric Areal Density After Drying
2 TS 251
(Finishing) Measurement After Sanforizing
After Drying
3 Fabric Roll Width -
After Sanforizing
2.2.2. Wale Density Measurement as to minimize variation caused by the finishing process
(Table 3). The processes were applied to fabrics during
The loop stitches, which are 1 cm wide of the fabric, were
finishing process are thermo-fixing, washing, drying and
counted by means of a lupe. This measurement was
sanforizing process.
repeated five times at different areas of the fabric for each
specimen; and their average value was taken into Washing process was carried out with 1/6 flotte ratio. The
consideration (TS EN 14971). fabrics emerged as a rope in the washing process were
squeezed by water in a tube-cutting machine and turned
2.2.3. Areal Density Measurement
into a dekatur (folded fabric) and dried in a drying machine.
2
The weight of the 100 cm fabric specimens prepared with Sanforizing process has been applied to the fabrics for
the sample cutter was weighed using a sensitive scale. This dimensional stability. At the end of the sanforizing process,
measurement was repeated for five different areas of fabrics the dimensional change and areal density values were
and their average was taken into consideration (TS 251). measured and recorded as shown in Table 3.
2.2.4. Fabric Width Measurement 2.3.1. Areal Density Measurement
2
The width of all manufactured fabric rolls were measured by The weight of the 100 cm fabric specimens prepared with
tapeline and recorded. This measurement was repeated the sample cutter was weighed using a sensitive scale. This
three times at different areas of fabrics; and their average measurement was repeated for five different areas of fabrics
was considered. and their average was taken into consideration (TS 251).
2.3. Fabric Finishing Processes 2.3.2. Fabric Width Measurement
Following measurements of the raw fabrics used in the The width of all manufactured fabric rolls were measured by
empirical study, they were incurred in finishing process to tapeline and recorded. This measurement was repeated
obtain finished fabric specimens. Knitted fabrics were three times at different areas of fabrics; and their average
processed according to their fiber types in the same way so was considered.
Figure 1.Shrinkage scale (for measuring dimensional change) and signing fabric.
2.3.3. Dimensional Change In the present study, MATLAB ® Neural Network Toolbox
was used for creating Multilayer Feed-Forward ANN that
In order to determine longitudinal and latitudinal shrinkage has three layers as input layer, hidden layer and output
or elongation afterwards of the finishing process, layer.
dimensional change test was applied to specimens. After
each finishing process, the dimensional change was In the ANN model, initial weight and bias values were
measured (TS EN ISO 3759- 2009). A special pattern was assigned randomly; and task of changing weights was
used to determine longitudinal and latitudinal shrinkage or performed online basis. In other words, the established ANN
elongation. In the beginning of finishing treatments, all alters weights one unit at each iteration online basis.
fabrics were drawn on the dimensional pattern (50cm x Whereas sigmoid activation function was used as the
50cm) using a permanent marker. After each finishing activation function, training of the ANN model, commenced
process, dimensional change was measured by means of a with determined network parameter, is continued until
shrinkage scale that is shown in Figure1. Measurements certain number of iteration (epoch) (It was set as 1.000 for
were taken inner borders of the first drawn line on the ruler this study). The activation function employed in the study is
(35x35 cm). a sigmoid function that yields continuous responds in certain
pattern with respect to the data entered into the function.
3. Artificial neural networks and structure These responds are certainly not discrete. Thus, sigmoid
ANN, which is the computer system, is developed by function is commonly applied because it refers the most
modelling of human brain. Main properties of ANN are appropriate function for the problems requiring sensitive
automatically creating, deriving and exploring new evaluations. The important point is that function needs to
information using learning like human brain. Technically, the allow derivation operation.
major task of artificial neural networks is to predict an output 3.1. Input Parameters
data set with respect to the entry data set given to them. In
accomplishing this task, the network is required to be Dimensional change in finished fabrics prepared for garment
trained with examples of the relevant incident so that it could manufacturing is determined by numbers of factors such as
make a generalization which enables the system to predict raw material, knitting conditions and finishing processes.
output set corresponds to the similar events [19-20]. Before delivered to garment manufacturing facility, fabrics
incur sanforizing process at the finishing stage as the last
Areal density(g/m2)
Areal density(g/m2)
Fabric Roll Width
Yarn Type
desired
Given input and output parameters, longitudinal and hidden layer of the ANN model was increased from 3 to 50
latitudinal dimensional changes that could arise as a result so that the weights of the model yielding the most accurate
of sanforizing process were predicted in centimeter with result could be recorded.
respect to yarn types.
In this article, it was determined that the ANN model gave
the most accurate result with hidden layer having 14 nodes
4. Results and Discussion
(Figure 2). Mean Absolute Error (MAE) value of this ANN
In order to test consistency of the obtained results, model is dimensional width 0.7623 and dimensional change
performance value (accomplishment or accurate estimation height 1.1619. MAE values of the first 10 sample is shown in
value) was measured. Thus, the number of node(s) in the Table 8, and all values is plotted in Figure 3.
Figure 2. Artificial neural network diagram illustrated for dimensional change in finished fabric
Sample No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Dimensional Change
0.1760 1.9848 1.0700 2.4036 0.2165 5.7511 1.6119 1.4067 0.4178 3.6911
(cm - Width)
Dimensional Change
2.4464 6.7724 1.6965 7.5441 1.0408 3.4202 0.7061 3.7837 0.8337 7.7827
(cm - Length)
For evaluation of the dimensional change in finished fabrics, process displayed difference with respect to the one
output values were digitalized according to measurement predicted by the ANN.
results. For instance at the end of the drying process, if
Given the obtained results through the ANN model, the
shrinkage was measured as -13.2% cm with the 50x50 cm
performance plotting in Figure 4 ceased the iteration after
pattern with respect to the fabric input value, the real value
11 steps according to the MSE (Mean Square Error) method
was digitalized as 43.50 cm similar to the value at the first
after the best error value (where minimum error occurs) was
raw in Table 8. In other words, width of a fabric with 50 cm
obtained regarding the Training, Validation and Test values.
original dimension was measured as 43.40 cm at the end of
In Figure 4, after the data was determined for training of the
the sanforizing process. On the other hand, the ANN model
ANN model, test and validation data were run in the ANN
predicted the output dimension as 43.24 cm. In terms of the
model following the training, the smallest of these three
fabric width, the difference between the measured and
values was displayed on the MSE value plotting. In other
predicted values was 0.16 cm that was considered
words, whereas the data isolated for the training purpose
prediction error of the ANN model. After the raw fabric was
were used during training of the ANN model, the most
incurred all operations following its entry, width of the raw
appropriate MSE value was given as validation plotting for
fabric in 50 cm dimension was measured at the end of the
the values predicted based on the training, validation and
sanforizing process as 43.40 cm. On the other hand, the
test data during performance testing of the model.
proposed ANN model predicted this dimension as 43.24 cm.
Accordingly, it was observed that the model exhibited the
Similarly, whereas the length of the fabric in 50 cm original th
best performance at the 11 iteration. This iteration was
size was measured as 46.70 cm at the end of the
determined as the most successful prediction model since
sanforizing process, it was predicted by the ANN model as 2
the model displayed correlation coefficient (R ) was 0.96132
46.297 cm.
(Figure 5). It could be observed that the error displayed by
Table 9 exhibits data regarding randomly selected specimen the ANN model reduced as number of iteration increased.
taken at end of processes. According to the table, fabric After the training of the model, correlation coefficient was
width and lengths measured at the end of the sanforizing determined as 0.96132 that suggests strong correlation
between the real measurements and predicted values.
Table 9. Data of samples of finished fabrics at the end of processes (in cm)
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