August 20-22, 2022 San Jose, California: Celebrating The Differences That Make Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Shine

Celebrating the differences that make professional beauty and aesthetics shine.
August 20-22, 2022

San Jose, California
Learn more at nailproshow.com
NP_ShadesofBeauty_FLPage.indd 2 2/10/22 12:30 PM

July/August
July/August2021
2022••Volume
Volume31,
32,Number
Number45••nailpro.com
nailpro.com
DIP TIPS
UV/LED Lamps & Implements
Neons, Summer & Skin Care
NP2207_cover_fcx.indd 2 7/18/22 6:08 AM

NP FPA Spread.indd 1 7/12/22 8:46 AM
JULY/AUGUST 2022
Contents
FEATURES
12 TROPICAL SUMMER
Meet nail artist duo Jose Cordova
and Lorena Cruz, and discover the
inspiration behind their cover for
this issue.
By Mai-Quyen Nguyen
22 THE LATEST TIPS ON DIPS

Brand educators and nail techs
provide the latest benefits and tips
for using dip products.
By Marcia Travelstead
26 THE CUTICLE HAS GOT TO GO!

A reminder of nail anatomy and how
to safely do cuticle work within the
scope of practice.
By Holly L. Schippers
29 VIDEO: CURETTE AND PUSHER
30 VIDEO: E-FILE
30 VIDEO: E-FILE TIPS
34 CAREER CHOICE
AND OPTIONS FOR
PROFESSIONAL GROWTH
Discover your options for your career
in the nail industry depending on
your interests, skills, education N
and resources. C
By Jaime Schrabeck
IN EVERY ISSUE
6 EDITOR’S NOTE
9 GURU'S GUIDE
10 PRO POINTERS
11 GOODY BAG
15 PORTFOLIO
16 INSIDE LOOK
46 TEST YOURSELF
47 AD INDEX
48 DAILY INSPO
44 || NAILPRO
NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022 2022
JANUARY/FEBRUARY
NP2207_TOC_DM.indd 4 7/18/22 10:48 AM

COLUMNS
14 POLISHED LOOK
ANOTHER DIMENSION
Guest artist Alexis Auer (@finger_paints_nailart)
revels in sculpting 3D gel designs, making her a
perfect match for designer Pierre Balmain.
By Karie L. Frost
22
18 NAILSPIRATION
DESERT DELIGHTS
Salon owner Lo Cruz (@blessedbythenailgods)
creates a desert-inspired, earth-toned set that
captures this vast ecosystem. By Audrey Latimer
20 SAVVY SALON
NAILSALOON
Andréa Vieira welcomes Nailpro to nailsaloon in
Washington, D.C.
31 PRO TALK
PURPLE HAZE
Clearing up the "purple haze" of confusion
surrounding the task of choosing a nail lamp.
By Paul Bryson
12
38 PRO TALK
WHERE AND HOW ARE MY PRODUCTS
PRODUCED?
Let us discuss how nail polishes are produced
and the impact of each method to the nail
industry. By Vivian Valenty
40 WORKSHOP
IMPLEMENTS
Breaking down what tools you need in your kit,
methods to take care of them and maximization
of their functionality. By Vu Nguyen
42 NAIL CLINIC
KOILONYCHIA
Learn more about "spoon nails," which
are caused by a wide range of underlying
conditions. By Tracy Morin
NAILING DIGITAL
15
CHECK OUT NAILPRO.COM
TRENDING NAIL TECHNIQUES

nailpro.com/22301497
From 3D encapsulation and gel overlay to press-
14
ons and the glass effect, the Nailpro Nail Show
2022 has several nail technique classes for you to
take and expand your knowledge.
SPATE TREND ALERT: TWISTS AND TURNS

nailpro.com/22288937
Swirl nails are back with even more style! See how
this trend is making an impact.
18 JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 5
NP2207_TOC_irv.indd 5 7/18/22 11:34 AM

EDITOR'S NOTE
NEONS, DIPS AND LAMPS

NAILPRO MANAGING EDITOR MAI-QUYEN NGUYEN SHARES WHAT IS ON HER
MIND THIS MONTH.
As we approach the end of summer, why not experiment with neons like those on Page 16, find new
tips on dip products on Page 22 and refresh your knowledge on Page 40 in our implements Workshop.
As a nail tech, you have plenty of career options that go beyond the industry, which Jaime Schrabeck of
Precision Nails in California delves into on Page 34. Our Pro Talks for this double issue discuss where
products are produced (Page 38) and what to look for when purchasing UV/LED lamps (Page 32).
If you have been missing in-person education, however, do not miss the Nailpro Nail Show and Master
Mai-Quyen Nguyen Challenge taking place from Aug. 20-22, 2022 where we will hold Workshops and Advanced Education.
Managing Editor, Nailpro Magazine We are so excited to finally come together in person after two years and cannot wait to link hands with
everyone! I am especially eager to see the creations from the live competitions. If you have not yet bought
mnguyen@allured.com
your ticket for the event, you can still register online at nailproshow.com or on-site at the San Jose McEnery
@maiquyenvnguyen
Convention Center in San Jose, California. See you there!
Here are a few products I will be trying this summer for my hands, feet, and bonus, my cleaning needs.
Cleaners, Compression and Creams
After getting sick in June, my urge to

clean my house was stronger than ever.
With no fragrances, dyes, preservatives or With constant handwashing
surfactants nor requirements of rinsing, and high, drying temperatures,
wearing gloves or masking, Force of Hydrating Cream is great to have
Nature Pro is an appliance designed on hand as a lightweight and
to use electricity to convert tap water nongreasy moisturizer with shea
with a capsule of salt, water and vinegar butter and coconut oil ingredients.
into an all-in-one multi-surface cleaner, Though I have no vacations
deodorizer and EPA-registered sanitizer planned, the light coconut and
and disinfectant. Available in 32- and eucalyptus scent smells like
64-ounce sizes. summer. It can make a refreshing
forceofnaturepro.com option for manicures and pedicures
at a nail salon or spa and at home.
pearnova.com
I love a good combo, especially for my dry heels that are subject to more activity and sandals
during the summer. Pairing Intense Night Repair and Hydro-Gel Socks helps lock in moisture
for more hydration. The former is a repair cream for heels, formulated with coconut, wheat
germ, almond and lavender oils, while the latter can be worn all day to provide compression,
protection and shock absorption and is made from nontoxic, medical-grade silicone.
elimcanada.com
6 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022
NP2207_ EditorsNote_fcx.indd 6 7/18/22 6:29 AM

Tune In!
Nailpro’s
Multimedia
www.nailpro.com/multimedia
NP_2021_Multimedia_print_ad.indd 1 2/10/22 1:32 PM

TRENDS | BUSINESS | PRODUCTS
by audrey latimer
S
A
r
o
t
i
p
B
guru’s guide 9
Trends
pro pointers 10
Business
goody bag 11
Products
NP2207_Guide_Happenings_Pointers_fcx.indd 8 7/18/22 6:50 AM

GURU’S GUIDE
SKIN IN THE GAME

As we transition from spring to summer, our clients are more than
ready to show off some skin. Summer has arrived, complete with
open-toed shoes, slides, crop tops, shorts and tanks. To prep for
the summer, skin care for our hands, nails and toes comes in three
important steps: exfoliating the old, hydrating the new, and of course,
practicing home maintenance in between professional services.
By Julie Kandalec
EXFOLIATION
The first step in my salon skin care regimen is
exfoliation. Gently buffing away dry skin first is
important so that we are not working backward and
hydrating skin that will be exfoliated away. In my atelier, I
offer dry manicuring using an e-file and diamond bits. It is a
highly requested service that works especially well on dry skin.
Instead of soaking the hands and trimming cuticles, the fine
diamond bits slough away any corner calluses, excess skin HOME MAINTENANCE
and hangnails, nearly eliminating the need for cuticle nippers Now that we have successfully smoothed and
or cutting. A dry manicure also helps nail services last longer rehydrated our client’s skin, it is their turn
by allowing the polish or enhancement to adhere better to to do a little home maintenance between
the nail plate, and the ability to get significantly closer to the appointments. It is the perfect time to educate them on
cuticle, giving clients much more time between appointments. the importance of maintenance and suggest a few retail
For waterless pedicures, you can use an e-file with specialty products to make a little extra money, too. Here are the three
pedicure bits. For soaking pedicures, invest in a good foot top retail products I love to recommend and how I tell my
scrub. Like nail file grits, be sure to start with the product or clients to use them:
tool that is the coarsest, then work to the smoother side or •Cuticle oil: Most clients know to apply it to the cuticle
product. Finish in a circular motion instead of back and forth; area, but not everyone knows the importance of the
this helps to seal and prevent peeling and cracking. underside of the nail as well, especially if they wear
enhancements. Cuticle oil helps prevent the natural nail
HYDRATION from curling and peeling from the enhancement.
Now that the skin has been exfoliated, it is •Hand cream: Keep it by the sink to apply after every hand
ready to drink in the much-needed hydration washing to lock in moisture, and before bed, paired with
provided by cuticle oils and lotions. Start with cotton gloves.
a hot towel wrap to open the pores—even in the summer •Foot cream: Apply post-shower, or my favorite trick:
months—this is a real treat. Drop on cuticle oil, then warm up preworkout. It will absorb by the time clients return
a deeply hydrating cream in your hands before applying. home, and the extra heat and friction from their workout
This is a fast and simple way to add a luxurious touch, instead will allow the ingredients to penetrate the skin better.
of applying it directly to the skin. Creams with ingredients
like shea butter, hyaluronic acid and ceramides have ultra- From beauty campaigns to backstage at New York Fashion Week,
hydrating properties. Always be sure to ask your client about Julie Kandalec (@julieknailsnyc) is the founding educator of Julie
allergies and sensitivities before any treatment. Take into K Nail Academy and the owner of Julie K Nail ARTelier in New
consideration the scent, texture and “slip” of a massage cream York City (@jknailartelier), an exclusive, by-appointment-only nail
when selecting your options. I frequently cocktail products art studio offering one-of-a-kind manicure services. Her clients
together to satisfy my client’s individual needs, including: include Camila Cabello, Jessica Chastain, Selena Gomez, Pete
•An all-over hand and foot cream with a light scent. Davidson, Dove Cameron, Joe Jonas, Mariah Carey, and Hailee
•A spa-like scented lotion—try combining two options like Steinfeld. Her work has been featured in Allure, Cosmopolitan,
floral and citrus. Elle, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, WWD, and on campaigns
•A very simple, classic hand cream that is hydrating yet will for Chanel, CND, Dior Beauty, essie, OPI, YSL Beauty, Tiffany &
not cause issues with clients with eczema or allergies. Co., Glossier, Bobbi Brown, Urban Decay and Maybelline. She
•A heavy, concentrated hand cream for spot treatment on is also the author of Nail Art Design Book and is a Nailpro 2022
frequent hand-washers such as hairstylists. advisory board member.
JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 9

PRO POINTERS
Slaying Sales
Did you know that cross-selling and upselling are one of the greatest ways to boost sales without
increasing pricing or hiring more people? The goal of both tactics is similar, which is to alternately
maximize profit and enhance customer experience. If you are unfamiliar with these selling styles, this
article will break down everything you need to know about incorporating these tactics into your salon.
By Maisie Dunbar
CROSS-SELLING 101 options. They may have come to the appointment with one
Cross-selling is the practice of suggesting relevant products specific service in mind, but when they learn of the salon’s
and treatments based on your customer’s buying behavior. many offerings, they might make a last-minute decision to
These supplementary products, services and treatments switch things up. During all appointments, provide consistent
can increase the average price of an appointment, enhance value. This ensures that when you upsell a client they realize
client retention, differentiate your brand and improve overall that while it is going to cost them more, your skills are worth
customer experience. A perfect example of cross-selling for the price increase. When upselling, create a feeling of urgency.
a manicure is adding a pedicure along with a hand and/or Learn what your client is getting their nails done for (i.e.,
foot scrub. vacation, bachelorette weekend, work trip, etc.), and explain
When formulating the best cross-selling strategy, be why the upsell option would be the best for their situation.
sure to study your cllient’s buying behaivor. Do they tend Another option? The bandwagon effect. Tell the client how
to splurge for special occasions? Do they stick to the exact popular and in demand a service is with other clients. Say
same products or services during each appointment? As the something along the lines of “All my clients have been
nail professional, it is your job to find their sweet spot. Once requesting X this week.”
you find it, maximize it. Upselling does not have to be a daunting task; in fact,
Pro tip: Utilizing salon software is vital when cross-selling it can be naturally included in a conversation during the
as it allows employees to have data that helps with marketing appointment. Listen for clues about your client and their
strategies for each client. It also ensures best practices for lifestyle. Perhaps they believe certain nail products or services
your road map to the client’s success. are sufficient; however, after a few simple questions, you can
provide them with better options. Pay close attention to how
UPSELLING 101 they talk about past services—maybe they are too shy to say
An upsell is when you add additional services or treats to they wanted something different. Provide maximum value by
increase the average ticket. This tactic persuades customers giving them the choice of high-quality nail sets.
to buy an upgraded or more expensive treatment. An
example of an upsell for a manicure will be a gel manicure or Maisie Dunbar (@maisiedunbar) is the president and founder of
a shellac. Maisie Dunbar Beauty Brands featuring BluffaJo Cosmetics. She
When approaching a potential upsell, there are a few is also a United Nations Goodwill Ambassador and a member of
things to keep in mind. Be sure to give the client multiple Nailpro’s 2022 advisory board.

GOODY BAG
All-In-One
The GelBottle’s All-in-One
To the Rescue
A tinted base gel, Bio Sculpture
BIAB is a hard-wearing, self- Conditioning Gel conditions the
leveling formula that acts as nail plate and promotes nail health
a base, builder gel and top in a concealer-foundation color. The
coat. This product is a clear product provides adhesion for thin,
soak-off BIAB with 50% less sore, damaged, dry and distressed
HEMA for no heat spikes. nails. biosculpturegel.com
thegelbottle.us
Best Foot Forward

The GelBottle Inc.’s E-Foot File is
both lightweight and ergonomic
and was designed for gentle yet
effective treatments that can be
achieved with minimal effort and
maximum comfort for your clients.
thegelbottle.us
Orange You Glad?

AMN SPA Sicillian Blood Orange Cuticle Oil
contains sweet orange oil, jojoba seed oil
and vitamin E in a blend that can be used
to calm stress and soothe dry irritated skin.
americanails.com
What a Gem
Jewelspa from US Crystal is a five-step spa pedicure
available in four variations, including Diamond Strength,
Ruby Rich, Sapphire Shower and Emerald Sooth.
Formulated with rosehip oil, cannabis sativa oil and 16
natural ingredients, the pedicures are meant to reflect
each jewel’s skin benefits. uscrystal.com

BEHIND THE COVER BY MAI-QUYEN NGUYEN
Q&A
HEADSHOTS COURTESY OF LORENA CRUZ AND JOSE CORDOVA; PROJECT CREATORS: LORENA CRUZ AND JOSE CORDOVA; NAIL TECH: JOSE CORDOVA; MAKEUP: CARMEN URIA; HAIR: CECILLIA MARTINEZ; MODEL: MARINA LUGO; PHOTOGRAPHER: TARA LEI
Nailpro: How long have you been a
licensed nail tech?
Jose Cordova (JC): I have been a licensed
cosmetologist for six years now.
Nailpro: Why did you become a nail tech?

JC: Growing up, my mom always got
her nails done. She loved rhinestones
and animal prints the most. One day, she
suggested I learned how to do nails. By
“suggested,” I mean she bought all the
products along with a nail magazine from
which I learned the application process.
I did nails as a hobby on my family while
living in Mexico. In 2016, I moved to
Phoenix, Arizona. After struggling to find a
stable job that I enjoyed, I decided to get
licensed to do nails in the states. That is
Tropical SUMMER where the real journey began.
Nailpro: When did you get into nail art?

For how long have you been creating?
MEET NAIL ARTIST DUO JOSE CORDOVA AND JC: About four years ago, I was ready to
LORENA CRUZ, AND DISCOVER THE INSPIRATION give up on the nail industry. Then I noticed
more and more people were creating
BEHIND THEIR COVER FOR THIS ISSUE. actual art on their enhancements. Little
by little, I started practicing. Soon after I
For some, summer may call for a tropical moved to The Spot Beauty, the salon I now
escape. While we do not all have the luxury or work at. There I was inspired by my friend
opportunity to travel, we may have access to a and mentor, Lo, to create more elaborate
pool, which is almost as good as the ocean… designs. Each day, my passion for nail art
Almost. Instead we can channel the refreshing kept growing and evolving.
atmosphere captured in these cover images from
Jose Cordova (@thenailonyx) and Lorena Cruz Nailpro: What is your inspiration behind
(@blessedbythenailgods) who are both based in the cover?
Phoenix, Arizona. JC: I had been seeing geometric nails a
“The inspiration behind this photo shoot came lot, usually ones with art inside the shapes
Jose Cordova from entrepreneurship. We wanted to collab (leaves, to be more specific). I combined
with our local artist from Phoenix, Arizona,” Cruz those geometric shapes with bright colors
explains. “Being in the beauty industry, we see and my newfound passion for tattoo art to
our connections and how much more we all create this set.
benefit if we work together to create greatness.
A perfect example of what doors we can open Nailpro: How do you conceptualize your
for one another when we work together. These nail art?
photos were inspired by summer fun under JC: My favorite thing to do is have a
the bright Arizona sun and an emphasis on the concept and allow the art to evolve as it
beauty industry with complete makeup, hair and wants to. I rarely have a vision of what I want
nails. [We wanted to express] having fun and the end product to look like. I allow the nail
Lorena Cruz looking beautiful [at the same time].” to speak to me and become what it wants.
NP2207_CreatingThe Cover_fcx.indd 12 7/18/22 6:58 AM

HOW-TO
HEADSHOTS COURTESY OF LORENA CRUZ AND JOSE CORDOVA; PROJECT CREATORS: LORENA CRUZ AND JOSE CORDOVA; NAIL TECH: JOSE CORDOVA; MAKEUP: CARMEN URIA; HAIR: CECILLIA MARTINEZ; MODEL: MARINA LUGO; PHOTOGRAPHER: TARA LEI
1. Start with a white base. 2. Add a geometric shape with 3. Outline your shape in black.
pop of color.
4. Create the silhouette of the 5. Mix clear and black gel polish 6. Add white for highlights.
flowers using black gel paint. to create shading within the flower.
Jose Cordova (@TheNailOnyx) was

introduced to nails as a teenager by
his mother who was a nail enthusiast.
He first learned how to apply nails
while living in Mexico with the help of
nail magazines and their step-by-step
tutorials. In 2016, after having tried
his luck in other industries, he realized
he needed to pursue nail artistry as
a career and got his cosmetology
license. He is a now a Phoenix-based
nail artist specializing in dynamic
7. Add a matte top coat. 8. Add embellishments, and you hand-painted nail art.
are done. NP
NP2207_CreatingThe Cover_fcx.indd 13 7/18/22 6:59 AM

POLISHED LOOK BY KARIE L. FROST
Newbie licensed nail tech Alexis Auer

(@finger_paints_nailart) already is well established
with a Chicago-based studio and online following
of 19K-plus. She specializes in “controlled chaos”
designs with mix-and-match, multidimensional sets.
Another
Dimension
When the House of Balmain came to fruition in 1945,
French women could not possibly foresee that the
way they dressed would forever change. But, the
designer behind it, Pierre Balmain, had the vision to
make it so, ushering in his “Jolie Madame” style of
dressing with sculptural silhouettes that flattered
the female form and highlighted the swish and
swerve of a woman’s every movement. It is
a style that remains in vogue today, but the
Balmain label has evolved, going heavy on
the theatrics of strong, architectural tailoring
mixed with an abundance of dimensional
luxurious materials, like lavish ropes,
sparkling chains, chunky turquoise disks
and shards of reflective lucite. It is all
enough to make a nail artist’s inspo
meter go through the roof! For guest
artist Alexis Auer, Balmain is the perfect
match; she revels in sculpting 3D gel
designs that seem to pulse before
your eyes, like these three Balmain-
inspired beauties she created.
Fall 2014 Spring 2020
Spring 2019
Inspired by Spring 2019 Inspired by Fall 2014

COURTESY OF ALEXIS AUER AND ANDREEA ANGELESCU
Inspired by Spring 2020
NP2207_Polished_Look_fcx.indd 14 7/18/22 7:05 AM

PORTFOLIO
2 Perfect Combo
Matte nails or shiny nails, that is the
question. On the other hand, why
not choose both? The whimsical
combination of the two finishes lends
an interesting aesthetic detail to any
nail set. Whether your client cannot
decide between the two or is
SUBMIT
FOR THE looking for some playful flair,
NEXT the matte-shiny combination is
THEM
SPIDERWE: a perfect pairing.
EBS!
1
4
5
8
3
6 7 9
1 @norwichnail 2 @im_pressd 3 @nails.by.jayme 4 @mr_satchel_nails 5 @polishedbyneena
6 @5gnails 7 @handittoheather 8 @wildflower.nails 9 @byaimee_
If you would like to submit your nail art for Nailpro’s Portfolio, look for the next theme by following @nailpromagazine on Instagram. Then send an email to alatimer@allured.com that
includes your name, Instagram handle and image of your license, along with your high-resolution photos. By emailing your photos, you grant Allured Business Media the right to use
any of your submitted images in Nailpro magazine, corresponding electronic media and/or marketing materials without any compensation. In addition, you grant Allured Business
Media the right to these images for future use without any compensation due.
NP2207_Portfolio_fcx.indd 15 7/18/22 7:20 AM

INSIDE LOOK
NEON Collections
What screams summer? Bright colors. Help your clients become walking neon signs with
their nails. Here, you can explore different aspects of these multicolored, sunshine-feeling
shades from ombre, glow in the dark and glitter to shiny and matte.
Aprés Nail
French Manicure Gel
Neon Ombre Set
apresnail.com
Electric Lolita Open Close Exit Space Tang Hi-Lite Lime Sour
Bio Sculpture
BioGel Live Life Loudly Collection
biosculpture.com
Poco Pop Sunshine Sway Retro Rock Violet Vibes Limelight Belle Of
The Bop
The GelBottle Inc. Revel Nail

Summer Edit Summer Drop-Ins
thegelbottle.us revelnail.com
T
Aster Crocus Flax Kingcup Matteverse Heyday Frolic Strut

L
Orange Princess Peppermint Princess Sugargloss Tiffany Flaunt Funhouse Parade
NP2207.08_InsideLook_fcx.indd 16 7/18/22 7:28 AM

LuxaPolish
Deadly Neons
luxapolish.com
Ugly Duckling Nails

Neon Gel Polish
Assorted Colors
uglyducklingnails.com
Flash Dragon Fruit Hard Candy Mandarin Dream It Ain’t Easy Purple Crush
Being Green
#196
Ugly Duckling Nails
Neon Coloured Acrylic
Assorted Colors
#133 #135 #138 #143 uglyducklingnails.com
#197
ORLY
Electric Escape
orlybeauty.com
Tangerine Dream Artificial Orange Kaleidoscope Eyes Neon Paradise Plastic Jungle Synthetic Symphony
Daily Charme
Glow in the Dark Neon Candy Coat
Charme Gels The Neons Collection
dailycharme.com lovecandycoat.com
Lollapalooza Summer Jam Coachella
Meadows Splendour Time Warp Noelle Gia Hanna Sian Summer Kiki
NP2207.08_InsideLook_fcx.indd 17 7/18/22 7:28 AM

NAILSPIRATION BY AUDREY LATIMER
DESERT DELIGHTS
From its stunning color palette to its wondrous landscapes, the desert is Mother Nature’s
latest muse for everything from interior decorating to summertime nail art. Lo Cruz
(@blessedbythenailgods), the owner of The Spot Beauty in Phoenix, Arizona, created a
delicious, desert-inspired set that perfectly captures all the earth-toned beauty of this
vast ecosystem.
“The design was inspired by an artist I follow on TikTok,” Cruz says. “@hannahhh.mp
creates hand-painted bookmarks, which helped inspire this design. I think it is amazing how
we can find inspiration from other artists—not just nail artists—for nail art, all brought to us by
social media. Expand your creativeness by watching other artists outside of your work field.”
NP2207_Nailspiration_fcx.indd 18 7/18/22 7:34 AM

Step 3:
Step 1: Step 2: Use a copper shimmer polish to outline Step 4:
Polish your nail a solid light pink. Using a turquoise color, draw your mountains’ skyline. Make sure to use Draw a moon and a couple of stars
Choose a medium-dark polish to your cactus. Cure. Make sure to shimmer, not a glitter base gel polish— to fill up the sky. Enjoy, and have
draw your mountain. Cure. use a fine line brush for your art. glitter will be too thick for the fine lines. fun recreating the rest of the set!
NP2207_Nailspiration_fcx.indd 19 7/18/22 7:34 AM

SAVVY SALON
nailsaloon
ANDRÉA VIEIRA WELCOMES NAILPRO TO NAILSALOON
IN WASHINGTON, D.C.
THE BACKSTORY
In 2013, I was living in Seattle, and
one evening, I was getting a pedi in a
less-than-ideal nail salon. It was a little
dirty, they had two TVs on different
channels going at once and technicians
were eating next to clients getting their
toes done. I rang up a friend, and as
we chatted, we started visualizing what
would make an experience like that
+Details
better. Right then and there, we began OWNER: Andréa Vieira
dreaming up a new kind of nail salon, a EST.: Oct. 6, 2014
place that felt different than any other STAFF: About 50 employees
nail salon we had ever been to. Three BENEFITS: We offer our
full-time team PTO, and since
weeks later, I had quit my job and moved
last year, we close on our
back to Washington, D.C., to bring it
anniversary to do an all-day
to life. Last year, I bought all the shares
team-building event. We
of the business and became the sole offer employee credits and
owner, which has been super exciting attend quite a few events
on a personal level. But, my motivation together, including a local
is the same as when I started: to provide charity’s annual formal gala,
my clients and team with a unique which is a team favorite. We
experience and to make everyone feel close early and get dolled
like they have a special place to go—a up; it is always a great night
place they can leave feeling a little better on the town—for a good
cause, for all of us.
than when they arrived.
THE LOOK
The overall aesthetic of the nailsaloon
has evolved from when we first opened. 2. Key components of our business offer one pedicure, one manicure and
In our initial years, we had a more are in client view. We clean our tools a maintenance “speedy” mani. But,
industrial/rustic vibe. In the last year, we in front of our clients, mix our drinks there is something else. One of my
have softened the look of both of our in front of our clients, and even biggest pet peeves is being upsold
locations and made them a little less though everything is quite visually at every turn. Not just in nail salons
neutral. We have added pops of color, unpolluted (I am super anticlutter), but anywhere. So for our Saloon Pedi,
flower walls and whimsy in our signage. being above board on everything is everything is included: callus remover,
But, two things have not changed: one of our tenets. scrub, hot oil and lotion. Same for our
1. Our space facilitates conversation, Saloon Mani. Since last year, we offer
meaning our technicians SIGNATURE SERVICES gel and Dazzle Dry, which clients have
accommodate their seating to our When we came up with our service loved. But, otherwise, our polishes
COURTESY OF NAILSALOON
clients. I used to always hate going to offering, we wanted it to be simple. and products are 5-free, unscented,
a nail salon with a friend and having People spend all day making and as toxin-free as we can find
to sit on opposite sides of the space decisions, and we wanted to eliminate them. It is why we do not offer nail
because the available technicians’ the need for one more when they implements or powders, use harsh
stations were far apart. walked through our doors. So, we glues, etc.
NP2207_Savvy_Salon_irv.indd 20 7/18/22 7:46 AM

Up Close With
Andréa Vieira
What was your first job in the
nail industry?
“My first job in the nail
industry was being a salon
owner. It is a pretty big leap
from not having been a
technician, so it is humbling
to learn from my colleagues
about the art and chemistry
of nail care. But, I have quite a
bit of experience in the service
industry…I have waited tables,
worked in catering and spent
most of high school and college
working retail.”
What inspires you?

“My team, our clients and our community’s
willingness to pull together during tough
times. I would not be able to quantify how
much gratitude they make me feel.”
always required masks for
What was the most challenging thing that
all, even when Washington, happened while opening your salon?
D.C., lifted mandates. In “COVID-19 turned our world upside down.
many ways, this has helped The first months of the pandemic were
us stay consistent (versus the intense, full of fear, uncertainty and anxiety.
But, all of that made me recommit to this
on-off masking our city has
business in a way that I—for a myriad of
experienced). During the reasons—was unable to before. I have never
Delta surge, I also instituted a been more grateful or excited to be a part of
vaccine mandate for our team. the nailsaloon and to be able to shepherd it
In my former life, I worked for into the future.”
public health nongovernmental
What piece of advice would you give to a
organizations, and I am pretty new salon owner?
adamant about doing our part— “Follow through. On everything. On your
even if it is small—to help reduce commitment to your team, to your clients.
the community spread. Be all in. Owning a business is not for the
faint of heart. Like with any job, you are
bound to feel frustrated, disappointed and
SOCIAL BUTTERFLIES stressed. But, if you are all in, truly all in, you
Come find us on Instagram will see that even the hard moments can be
THE GOODS (@thenailsaloon) and Facebook. really enjoyable.”
We currently do not retail any
I cannot discuss the nailsaloon without…
products at our salons. We are WHAT IS NEXT
“Explaining that we are more than ‘just’ a
exploring and are open to retailing We have lots of exciting things salon. I heard from two clients this week
products—if that process does not take happening at the nailsaloon this who described how, during a recent visit,
away from our focus and commitment year, and I cannot reveal all of we turned their crummy days around. It is so
to the client experience. them just yet but will give you humbling to know we are providing people
a respite in this messy world. Because of it,
a clue about one thing: more
our team and our clients feel like it is their
SANITATION AND SAFETY nailsaloons are coming. Keep an salon. In many ways, it is, and that makes me
We are obsessed about cleanliness eye on our social media to find so happy.”
and hygiene and have been pretty out more.
COURTESY OF NAILSALOON
conservative in terms of COVID-19,

working hard to help our team and
clients feel safe while in our space.
Everyone who enters the nailsaloon
must wash their hands, and we have
Come visit us… Website: thenailsaloon.com
@thenailsaloon
NP2207_Savvy_Salon_irv.indd 21 7/18/22 7:46 AM

Brand educators and nail techs provide the latest benefits and tips
for using dip products. By Marcia Travelstead
Are you looking to provide a flawless dip manicure, or are you still hesitant about using dips and need
to learn a few more tips? The first dip product appeared on the market decades ago; however, over
the years, dip powders have improved dramatically. Janice (Owens) Thompson, cosmetologist, former
educator for Backscratchers and owner of The Beauty Spot, in Ocean Springs, Mississippi, has worked
extensively with dip. She explains, “Dip is an interesting product—[the application looks simple; it is all
how you learn to control it].”
NP2207_Dip_Travelstead_fcx.indd 22 7/18/22 7:56 AM

Features/Benefits
For starters, why would nail technicians
choose to work with dip products?
What is in it for them and their clients?
Dana Leotta of Revel Nail mentions
these features:
• Durability and strength
• Crack/chip/water resistance (dip is
great for [clients] who work with their
hands or who are looking for a long-
lasting manicure)
• Can work well for those who are
trying to grow their nails or even
someone who has weak nails [as it
can provide durability]
• Long-lasting shine
• Dip powder can last anywhere from
three to five weeks
Jose Pablo Duarte, international and
director of education, Costa Rica team,
Cuccio, adds: “I recommend dipping as
two services in one, because in addition
to adding color to the natural nail, it
also provides hardness—a resistance
comparable to that of an acrylic.”

9 Dip Tricks
Preparation is key: Make sure the nail is Do not use too much product in
clean and dry. “When applying dip, it is very one coat: “Dip products should be
important the nail plate is clean and very dry. applied in very thin layers, allowing each
It is NOT recommended to get the nails wet layer to ‘dry’ or ‘cure’ before applying
prior to the service. Nails absorb moisture, which will more product.”
break down the bond of the dip and the nail (this —Janice (Owens) Thompson f
will happen with any nail enhancement product).
The nail must also be very clean of any dead skin or
pterygium. The product will not bond if [the nail is Use a recommended number of coats:
not prepped].” “Use a maximum of three coats of dip,
—Janice (Owens) Thompson depending on the length of the nail. One
coat is too thin and does not show the color as
much. Three coats can be too thick and may need
Be educated about the dip product you to be filed down more. Use more than two only if
are using: “Not all dip systems are the the nails are medium/long size.”
same. Some use a base coat similar to —Andrea Lugo, nail technician, Fort Myers,
glue; others use one that is like gel. Clients Florida
walk away not knowing what is on their nails, and
that is when misinformation gets spread. It is true of
any product—you should know as much as possible Dipping provides versatility: “The famous
before using it, but especially with something like perfect French technique is requested
a dip.” by our clients around the world—the
—Jess Alexander, social media manager, dipping has a container in which we introduce
Kupa, Inc. the nail at a 45-degree angle, leaving the much
desired, perfect smile line. In addition, we can
put our creativity and art into practice through
Use one product line on a client: “Just like this product because we can carry out techniques
all professional products with complete such as marbling, blurring, encapsulating and
product lines, it is recommended to use many others.”
only that line. I am a big believer in doing —Jose Pablo Duarte, international and director
just that. Using products that are designed to work of education, Costa Rica team, Cuccio
together will give you the best results. However,
plenty of nail professionals mix and match product
brands. The biggest issue with doing this is if you Buff carefully for smooth nails: “If lumps
are having a service breakdown (e.g., nails not or valleys are present after the full
lasting very long, chipping, lifting, etc.) and contact application and before the top coat
the product brand for troubleshooting, there is is applied, the product/nail needs to be buffed
nothing they can do having not been familiar with smooth. Dip powders are not thick like acrylic,
other brands.” and they file or buff out very easily, so work
—Janice (Owens) Thompson carefully as not to remove too much product.”
—Janice (Owens) Thompson
Shape the natural nails before using the dip

product: “A quick tip to using dip powders Experiment with different base and top
would be to use a glass nail filer to shape coats: “I use a gel base coat and then a
the nails. This way, you are not tearing gel top coat to finish. Using the gel base
layers away from your free edge; you are applying a coat first [helps ensure the] top coat is not going
smooth finish. One who typically gets this method of to chip.”
enhancement (dip powder) is someone who may be —Andrea Lugo NP
trying to protect their nail health.”
—Syreeta Aaron, educator and brand ambassador, Marcia Travelstead is a former nail technician and a
LeChat freelance writer who resides in Honolulu, Hawaii.

Dip Products
There are plenty of dip powders,
some of which are packaged in
full kits. Other options have 2-in-1
formulas that can be used for acrylic
or dip. Here are some new and
popular products to try.
LeChat
Holocene
lechatnails.com
Anew Blue
Awakening
Americanails
City Lights™ Dip’N Sculpt Powders
americanails.com
Rising Sea
Kiara Sky
Dip Powder Nail Kit: French and Color
Pure Purple
kiarasky.com
Fresh Start
Pink Revival

NP2207_CuticleGo_Schippers_fcx.indd 26 7/18/22 10:20 AM

The Cuticle
HAS TO GO!
A reminder of nail anatomy and how to safely do cuticle work within the scope
of practice. // Holly L. Schippers
N ail coatings serve many purposes from adding strength or length to simply adorning the nail with
color and embellishments. The key to successful nail coatings that last, without chipping too soon
or peeling off the next day, often lies in the foundational prep work. A healthy knowledge of nail
anatomy, combined with meticulous prep work, significantly increases the chances of success of all the nail
coatings you apply in the salon.
Nail school often provides the bones of what you need to successfully pass the individual state board tests
throughout the U.S. Unfortunately, as with anything related to the body, we often make discoveries, which
cause textbooks to become outdated. As recently as 2019, scientist Doug Schoon released information that
was a result of years of consultations with doctors, dermatologists, scientists, and medical textbooks. The
research, conversations and even personal microscopic experience culminated into a digital rendering of nail
anatomy that is now the most complete and medically accurate to date.

COURTESY OF DOUG SCHOON, LEADING SCIENTIFIC RESEARCHER SPECIALIZING IN THE
SCIENCE OF KERATIN, INCLUDING NAILS, HAIR AND EYELASHES.
NAIL ANATOMY of tissue that consists of one layer of CLOSE-UP WITH
stem cells. This tissue extending from CUTICLES
As you can see from the diagram, some
the nail matrix to the dorsal edge of the
of the terms we have grown accustomed Now we come to the cuticle, that pesky,
proximal nail fold is the eponychium.
to as an industry are represented as nearly invisible layer of dead tissue that
The eponychium is another part of the
well as some that may be new to you. adheres to the nail plate beginning out
nail anatomy that has evolved over the
Industrywide acquaintance of the to the distal edge. The cuticle comes
years, going from suspected cuticle
anatomy, along with proper use of the from the eponychium and attaches
to visible living tissue and now to a
terms in classes, conversations and sturdily to the nail plate before it has
layer of stem cells, as agreed upon by
client consultations, is the first step in emerged from the proximal nail fold. It
the medical and scientific community.
eliminating confusion when it comes to separates itself from the eponychium
These changes serve to highlight the
offering a safe service, what we should remaining attached to the nail plate. The
importance of continuing to educate
be doing as part of prep work and what cuticle serves an important purpose:
yourself on nail anatomy, science and
will improve the wear of nail coatings. It helps create the seal between the
technology throughout your career
Getting intimately familiar with nail keratinized proximal nail fold and the
to offer the best service possible to
anatomy is important for the safety of nail plate, which protects the matrix from
your clients.
your service, the health of your client’s
nail and the adhesion of any product
that you apply to the nail plate. The
matrix is what gives birth to the nail cells,
its length determining the thickness of
the nails, and is located at the posterior
of the nail under the skin. The proximal
nail fold is a flap of skin that covers the
matrix and extends from the edge of the
visible nail plate to the first joint of the
finger. Often mistaken for cuticle, the
keratinized area of the proximal nail fold
that rests against the nail plate is living
tissue and should not be cut or removed
in any fashion since it helps create a seal
that protects the matrix from bacteria.
On the underside of the proximal
nail fold, not visible to us during a
service, as you can see from the cross- Cuticle scissors or nippers are an option for the removal of flaps of loose skin, hangnails or other pieces of obviously
section diagram, is a very thin section unattached tissue that may be removed without causing trauma.

bacteria. Once it continues beyond this
seal, the cuticle becomes an adhesion
issue for your nail coatings, and in
some cases, a cosmetic flaw when it Removing living tissue is outside of your scope of
is disturbed without being removed,
practice as a licensed professional in the U.S., no
COURTESY OF DOUG SCHOON, LEADING SCIENTIFIC RESEARCHER SPECIALIZING IN THE
creating small bumps or ruffles in polish.

Imagine that you are going to bake
a batch of cookies. Take a piece of
matter which tool you do it with. That means
parchment paper and lay it on your
cookie tray, then put your balls of
cutting off or fully removing the keratinized
SCIENCE OF KERATIN, INCLUDING NAILS, HAIR AND EYELASHES.
cookie dough on the tray to bake

them. When you take the cookies out
proximal nail fold with nippers, cuticle scissors
of the oven, what has the sheet of or an e-file bit are all considered surgery on
parchment paper done for you? The
paper created a barrier that stopped living tissue and should be avoided at all costs!
your cookies from sticking to the tray.
In cooking, this is a good thing; in nail
coatings, it is not helpful at all. Imagine
the cuticle is an invisible, sticky piece of
parchment paper. If you do not remove
that piece of paper, it will prevent your
nail coatings from adhering to the nail
the way they are meant to. To further
the analogy, if you dig at your cookie
sheet aggressively with a sharp spatula,
you will scratch up the cookie sheet.
This same concept applies to a more
extreme degree on the nails; aggressive
cuticle removal can damage the nail
plate, over time causing integrity issues
with the structure of the nail itself that
affect the ability of the nail to hold a
nail coating.
Basically, the cuticle has got to
go—in a safe manner that leaves the
integrity of the nail plate intact. The
natural nail is the foundation for your
service and should be the primary
focus of your efforts for safe care.
CLICK ARROW ABOVE TO PLAY VIDEO
Cuticle can be removed in a plethora Learn tips on how to remove cuticles with a traditional
of ways depending on your personal curette and pusher.
DRY MANICURE VS. WET MANICURE

Nails should not be soaked in a bowl of water for any length of time during a nail service. Should you look at a microscopic
image of a nail plate, it almost resembles a sponge and has many similar traits when it comes to absorption. Take a moment
to mentally visualize what it looks like when you saturate a sponge with water. Does it stay the same size? Nails soaked in
water expand—the thinner they are, the more they expand. Next, think about how long it takes a sponge to completely dry
out and return to its original shape. This tends to take quite a few hours, meaning the nail will be one size when you apply
the polish or gel polish, and in several hours, it will be another size completely! In some cases, this enables the polish to be
peeled off in a full sheet; in others, it may just peel off in small sections or simply chip around the edges. For those educated
to this circumstance, a dry manicure means not using a cuticle product to remove the cuticle, and a wet manicure is the use
of a cream or product that will get the nail plate “wet” after using the removal product.
NP2207_CuticleGo_Schippers_DM.indd 29 7/18/22 11:04 AM

preference, the type of coating you are Does the polish or gel polish you intend The cuticle work for enhancements
going to apply and your education and to use ask that you do a dry manicure or or extensions is determined much the
experience level. use a cuticle removal product? (To make same way. Is there something specific the
sure everyone is on the same page, a manufacturer prefers as far as using or
dry manicure is one in which you do not not using a cuticle removal product? The
REMOVAL AND
use a cuticle removal product.) If you are next element is removing cuticle from the
SHAPE using a cuticle removal product, does entire nail plate. Oftentimes the cuticle
Natural nail coatings would be it need to be removed or deactivated is worn off in daily life, the nails rubbing
considered a nail polish that does not with water? The importance of checking against things, in and out of pockets,
require a light cure and gel polish. Nail each product’s instructions is that the purses and so on. In some cases, it can be
prep with cuticle work for a natural residue from some removal products extra sticky, and there
nail service can vary slightly from one can cause lifting or chipping in a polish will be some places that it has clung to
product to another. The first place to or gel polish that was not created to for dear life, just waiting to cause lifting or
start is your manufacturer instructions. work with it. peeling if you neglect to remove it. One
difference between some natural nail
services and enhancements is that you
often need to remove the surface shine,
which serves as an extra step that comes
behind your cuticle work for cleanup. If
you know that you are not going to be
removing surface shine with a file as part
of your prep, it will be important to do
meticulous cuticle work as its own entity.
Shaping the nail edge is an additional
part of prep that will add to the overall
finish in a natural nail service. For an
enhancement service, the shaping is
a critical part in making sure tips or
forms fit snuggly and are less likely to
have product, jagged lower arches, or
a misshapen front form in the final nail.
Shaping the nails can be done with
anything from a 240 to 180 grit file,
depending on the quality and refinement
CLICK ARROW ABOVE TO PLAY VIDEO of the file itself and the service you
are doing.
Cuticle removal from the nail plate can be done with an e-file if
Removing surface shine from the
you use a low speed.
surface of the nail is exactly what it
sounds like. When removing the shine,
which consists of dirt and oils, do your
best to be gentle, and remove as little
as possible beyond that shine. This
step is also going to vary from a 240 to
a 180 grit, depending on your service,
the product you are using and the
manufacturer.
The basics of nail prep come down
to following instructions and using
professional products that will give you
professional results when used as they
are designed to be used. A thorough
understanding of nail anatomy that you
continue to update as medical science
updates it gives you the knowledge you
need to keep the nail plate a safe, healthy
foundation, in addition to making you the
CLICK ARROW ABOVE TO PLAY VIDEO local nail expert your clients can trust. NP
Find bits that you are comfortable with, and get education Holly L. Schippers (@fingernailfixer) is a
on doing it safely without causing damage to the skin or USA-based award-winning nail professional,
keratinized proximal nail fold. globally known as the FingerNailFixer®.
NP2207_CuticleGo_Schippers_DM.indd 30 7/18/22 11:04 AM

BY PAUL BRYSON PRO TALK
Purple haze, in my salon

My UV curing lamp is on
Gels are hardened, the nails are bright
Her left hand’s done – now I’ll do the right.
.…with apologies to Jimi Hendrix (R.I.P.)
PURPLE HAZE –
CLEARING UP CONFUSION
ABOUT NAIL LAMPS
CLEARING UP THE “PURPLE HAZE” OF CONFUSION SURROUNDING THE TASK OF CHOOSING
A NAIL LAMP.
What is the difference between UV and LED? Which lamp UV bulbs have two disadvantages. First, they cure more
should I buy? Can I get one lamp that will cure everything? slowly than LED systems. Secondly, UV bulbs need to be
What is the difference? To understand the differences, we changed frequently, normally every six months, as they lose
should first recall how these lamps are similar. All nail curing curing power well before they visibly fail. Unfortunately, if the
lamps emit light energy, which reacts with light-sensitive bulb glows like it is still working, it is easy to forget to change
molecules in the product (“photoinitiators”) that start the it. Curing with an aged bulb can cause undercuring, leading to
curing reaction. This reaction hardens the nail by causing service failure and allergic sensitization due to skin exposure
the gel molecules to link up into long chains and networks to uncured product. By contrast, LEDs have a lifespan of
(“polymerization”). So far, so good. But, what are the approximately 10 to 50 times that of bulbs and can last for
differences between the two? many years.
Technology
The main difference between the old UV and the new LED So, ditch the old UV lamps and just go all LEDs, right?
technology is the light source. The first UV curing nail lamps Well…Not so fast.
relied on fluorescent bulbs, while the new technology is based
on “Light Emitting Diodes” (LEDs).
NP2207_ProTalk_Bryson_irv.indd 31 7/18/22 8:58 AM

A Question of Wavelength wasted space. Ideally, a lamp will also have a well-designed
U
For those who wisely slept through high school chemistry hand platform to guide the fingers (and especially thumbs)
(thus avoiding my fate, i.e., the rap by Gould, Michelle R., into the most efficient curing position.
“Behind the Scenes, Part 1,” Nailpro, April 2001), shorter Lack of intensity can cause undercure. Conversely, a light
light wavelengths mean higher energy. You will also hear that is too intense for the gel system can cause painful heat
people refer to light “frequency.” To understand frequency spikes and overcure, leading to service breakdown. Again:
versus wavelength, imagine a guitar string: pushing down Do not mix systems.
at one of the frets shortens the vibrating length of the string Wattage is not as useful an indicator. Wattage refers
(wavelength), so the sound is higher pitched (frequency), and to the electrical power used by the bulb or LED, and for
it takes a little more finger strength to pluck (energy). The geometric reasons, does not translate directly to the intensity
same relation holds for light: shorter wavelength = higher of light exposure at the nail—just as, for example, two cars
frequency = more energy. Most lamp manufacturers advertise with the same horsepower do not necessarily have the same
by wavelength, e.g., 365 nanometers (nm). top speed.
Why is wavelength important? Photoinitiators vibrate in
resonance with certain wavelengths. This vibration breaks Well, All That Is Way Too Complicated…
the chemical bonds and starts the cure. So, a gel formulated
to cure with 365 nm may not cure well with 405 nm, and vice Agreed. Choosing a lamp among the myriad of alternatives
versa. (Do not mix systems!) UV bulbs have a peak of 365 nm; is a real problem, and a “universal” lamp is impossible
the first LED systems that swept the industry were mostly 405 to make. Fortunately, the answer is simple: Use a lamp
nm, which require a different type of initiator. LEDs can now recommended by the gel manufacturer. If the gel and the
be had in 395, 385 and 365 nm, giving the gel formulators lamp are designed and tested to work together, several of
and lamp designers more choices. Some lamp manufacturers the problems are solved for you: The manufacturer will have
incorporate LEDs of more than one wavelength. taken into account wavelength, intensity, finger position, cure
All light sources except lasers emit multiple wavelengths. time and so on. The question then is not “what lamp to buy,”
Sunlight separates in a prism into a rainbow of colors, each but “what system to buy.”
a different wavelength. Similarly, although a 365 nm lamp is If you mix systems, you have no guarantee of performance
most intense at 365 nm, it gives off many other wavelengths. or even safety. The gel might look cured to the eye, but only
In fact, you cannot see 365 nm light—the lamp glows purple lab tests can verify this. This could hurt you in a court case
because the output includes violet wavelengths. Conversely, if the manufacturers are called to testify on their product’s
405 nm is visible violet—however, much of the curing power safety. If you did not use it according to directions, the
comes from the invisible UV wavelengths (Figure 1). case could go against you, as the judge and jurors might
conclude, “Well, she did not follow directions—it is her fault.”
Manufacturers make great efforts to fine-tune gels and lamps
to work together, so do not try to second-guess them.
Other Considerations
There are many conveniences available with lamps today:
automatic timers, portable cordless lamps, carrying handles,
more durable and easy-to-clean surfaces and the like. All
these features make the lamps easier and more pleasurable
to use. However, choosing a high-performance product
comes first, and using the right lamp for that product will
maximize the product’s potential. NP
Paul Bryson, a native Californian, earned his Ph.D. in

chemistry from University of Southern California and worked
in pharmaceuticals and electronics before joining OPI in
December of 1997. His work has included new product
Figure 1: A 405 nm peak nail lamp spectrum. (Courtesy of OPI) development, manufacturing troubleshooting, regulatory
compliance and lab safety. He has promoted salon safety in
The Importance of Intensity collaboration with other Nail Manufacturers Council members
and Geometry and as an advisor to the California Board of Barbering and
We all know that light appears brighter up close. The same Cosmetology. Finally, he contributed a chapter on nail lacquer
is true for nail curing lights. A good design will have enough chemistry for the textbook, Cosmetic Dermatology, Products
lights to give sufficient curing intensity to the nails and will and Procedures (Z. Draelos). Outside of work, he enjoys
allow the nails to be as close as practical to the lights, with little gardening, fishing and hiking.

UV/LED LAMPS
“There are many conveniences
available with lamps today: automatic
timers, portable cordless lamps, carrying
handles, more durable and easy-to-clean
surfaces and the like.”
Here are a few you can try.
The GelBottle Inc.

USB Flash Lamp
thegelbottle.us
Americanails
UltraCure 54W Cordless Dual Cure
americanails.com
OPI
STAR LIGHT
opi.com
Aprés Nail
Beta LED Lamp
apresnail.com

CAREER CHOICE
AND OPTIONS FOR
PROFESSIONAL
GROWTH
Your career in the nail industry can lead in many different
directions, depending on your interests, skills, education
and resources. Discover your options.
By Jaime Schrabeck
NP2207_CareerChoice_Schrabeck_fcx.indd 34 7/18/22 9:09 AM

W
elcome to the global, multibillion-dollar
beauty industry! Except that the beauty
industry analyzed and discussed by
economists, investors, journalists and CEOs has
almost nothing to do with our work as licensed
beauty professionals. The primary focus of the
beauty industry has always been on consumers,
not on pros. Three of the largest brands dominate
by manufacturing and distributing retail products,
particularly in the categories of hair care, skin
care and makeup. In contrast, “professional-only”
products and service sales (revenue generated by
performing services) represent a relatively small
portion of the overall market, and the portion
represented by nails even smaller.
When using terms like “nail tech,” “nail

pro” or “manicurist,” most of us envision
a person who provides services directly
to clients for compensation.
Why does this matter? Because our

career options in the beauty industry
fall into two distinct categories:
performing services directly on
clients and everything else. That is
no arbitrary distinction when state
governments require occupational
training and licensure to perform
services for compensation and when
they also regulate compliance with
health and safety regulations.

BEGINNINGS AT BEAUTY SCHOOL Investing in your nail career can be as simple and inexpensive as only
We all start somewhere, and for many of us, that place was beauty school. State renewing your license. Unless states require continuing education (CE), licensees
governments grant beauty schools, private and public, an exclusive role in never have to attend a class, study a textbook, demonstrate any skills or pass
their regulatory process: prepare students for the licensing exam. As a result, another examination as long as they pay renewal fees on time and do not lose
licensed professionals generally share the experience of completing a beauty their license through disciplinary action taken by the state’s regulatory agency.
school course as prerequisite. (Assuming a certificate of completion was earned Even with shared designation as licensees, we diverge in the use of our
through attendance and participation and not fraudulently obtained through licensure according to employment classification, workplace environment
mere payment.) (salon suite, full-service salon, spa, mobile, session, etc.), services offered, client
Nonetheless, a shared experience is not equal experience. Even within a demographics (gender, age, ethnicity, socioeconomic status, etc.) and other
particular state, the quality of beauty school education varies considerably. factors, many of which we cannot qualify or quantify for lack of data.
Despite completing their educational hours, not every student learns the basic Speaking of data, the government tracks how many licenses have been issued
knowledge and skills necessary to meet the minimal standards for licensure. and renewed but not necessarily whether those licensees actively work in the
(We know this because many struggle to pass the licensing examination.) industry or how much income they generate. At the federal level, the U.S. Bureau
Regardless of the quality of education, every licensee within a state obtains of Labor Statistics (BLS) documents different occupations, earnings and projected
the same license and is limited by the same scope of practice that defines what openings based on workers (employees only). The BLS defines our profession
licensees are allowed to do. If a licensee chooses to limit themselves to specific as “Manicurists and Pedicurists” who “clean and shape customers’ fingernails
services within a license type, that is their choice, but they still need a valid and toenails. May polish or decorate nails.” While the BLS projects “much faster
individual license. That is, an unlicensed person cannot legally provide than average” job growth for manicurists and pedicurists (bls.gov/ooh/personal-
“just pedicures.” care-and-service/manicurists-and-pedicurists.htm), the wage data does not look
promising, impacting how much self-employed pros can earn on their own.
CONTINUED PROFESSIONAL GROWTH
Ultimately, it is up to individuals to seek additional education, training and YOUR JOURNEY
experiences to continue in their professional growth. Be warned that advanced Assuming you are still interested in the nail industry and have skills/talents/
education does not expand the licensed professional scope of practice, no matter abilities worthy of compensation, how do you find your niche? Who can you
who provides the training/certification, how much time it takes or how much it trust to advise you? What are your goals, and how much are you willing to
costs. Self-descriptions that venture beyond the title on a government-issued compromise to reach them? What experiences will benefit you most?
license can embellish qualifications and training (certified, master, expert, etc.) Our industry encompasses so many different occupations: licensed service
and often disguise a lack of licensure (self-taught, influencer, enthusiast, etc.). providers (manicurists, estheticians, cosmetologists, etc.), salon owners,
Although you may come across the term “licensed podiatric nail technician,” there chemists, manufacturers, distributors, educators, consultants, marketers, event
is no such thing in my state of California or anywhere. organizers, publishers, writers, web designers and more. Determining which
situation suits you can be a challenge, but rather than be discouraged, it is best
to view the process as a journey of personal and professional growth.
Writing out your goals Multiple career options can be pursued simultaneously within the industry,
can help you decide resulting in multihyphenate bios. For example, licensees can operate their own
where you want to go businesses as an independent contractor or salon owner, provide education,
next on your journey. private label products, etc.
Working in the same industry, even when our work meets the definitions for
different occupations, we tend to combine all those occupations together and
label them our “career.” Strangely, it is only when we change industries that we
talk about “career change.”
Many beauty professionals aspire to operate their own salons.
Understandably, it is very appealing to envision a career in which we make our
own decisions, control our work environment, do what we love (performing
nails services!) and support ourselves. Immediately after beauty school, new
licensees feeling prepared not only for the realities of salon work but also for the
responsibilities of salon ownership defies reason when beauty schools do not
teach about the legalities of owning a business.
As a licensee and salon owner, I never worked as a salon employee and
always planned to work for myself. However, I can also attest to the unlikelihood
of success. Even with resources (primarily money), inexperienced salon owners
and manicurists struggle to provide quality services, build a loyal clientele and
maintain adequate cash flow. That is the reason why I encourage new licensees
to seek salon employment as their first position after beauty school, even if
being an employee is not their ultimate goal. Why repeat the same mistakes
made by others when you could be learning and earning without significant
financial risk?

BEAUTY OPPORTUNITIES AND BEYOND
If you are feeling less than excited about your current career path, the industry • Market Research Analyst
offers many different opportunities, and the potential to create your own. Some • Marketing Manager
of our most notable colleagues have become famous for what they do beyond • Materials Engineer
having their license: participating in nail competitions, hosting events, launching • Mechanical Engineer
products, developing techniques, educating other professionals, etc. The more • Operations Manager
you learn about the industry and yourself, the more your interests and career • Operations Mechanic
goals may change over time. • Packaging Designer
Want a more stable, conventional career? Explore options beyond your license. • Payroll Specialist
Consider the numerous occupations within the beauty industry that fall into • Photographer
the category of “everything else,” from entry-level positions to those requiring • Process Engineer
advanced degrees. We have options, to name just a few: • Product Formulator
• Accountant • Product Representative
• Account Executive • Product Safety Manager
• Account Manager • Product Tester
• Administrative Assistant • Project Engineer
• Advertising Manager • Project Manager
• Art Director • Public Relations Specialist
• Attorney • Publisher
• Beauty School Owner • Purchasing Manager
• Beauty School Instructor • Quality Control Manager
• Benefits Manager • Recruiter
• Business Analyst • Researcher
• Category Manager • Safety/Compliance Manager
• Consultant • Sales Associate
• Content Creator • Sales Manager
• Copywriter • Sales Support
• Cosmetic Chemist • Salon Manager
• Creative Director • Salon Owner
• Customer Development Manager • Salon Receptionist
• Customer Service Representative • Social Media Manager
• Data Scientist • Software/App Developer
• Digital Content Manager • Sourcing Analyst
• Distributor • Store Manager
• E-Commerce Manager • Supplier
• Editor • Supply Chain Analyst
• Educator • Supply Manager
• Electrical Engineer • Supply Planner
• Equipment Operator • Technical Operator
• Event Planner • Territory Development Manager
• Finance Manager • Textbook Publisher
• Financial Analyst • Test Developer
• Fulfillment Manager • Test Publisher
• Graphic Designer • Trainer
• Human Resources Manager • Transportation Planner
• Importer/Exporter • Video Editor
• Industrial Engineer • Videographer
• Industrial Quality Manager • Website Designer
• Information Technology Officer • Writer NP
• Inspector
• Lobbyist Licensed since 1992, Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D., works as manicurist
• Logistics Manager and owner of Precision Nails (@precisionnails), an employee-based
• Machine Operator salon in Carmel, California. Beyond her salon, Jaime advocates for
• Maintenance Mechanic compliance, co-hosts “Outgrowth: A Slice of Pro Beauty” podcast
• Manufacturer and advises California’s Board of Barbering and Cosmetology as
• Manufacturing Supervisor an expert witness.

PRO TALK BY VIVIAN VALENTY, PH.D.
Where and How Are My

Products Produced?
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN PRODUCTS ARE VISUALIZED, FORMULATED, COMPOUNDED AND
MANUFACTURED IN SMALL BATCHES IN HOUSE OR NOT? LET US DISCUSS HOW NAIL POLISHES
ARE PRODUCED AND THE IMPACT OF EACH METHOD TO THE NAIL INDUSTRY.
Per GlobeNewswire, in 2020, the global nail polish 2. A turnkey supplier is a contract manufacturer that
market surged to $18 billion from an early estimate of produces the bulk product and packages it into small bottles
$10.5 billion, outpacing sales for the lipstick category of to provide the finished goods of the brand name company.
cosmetics, the economic activity indicator. As a result, the This production is outsourcing, and the brand name owner
number of nail polish brands launched during the past essentially functions as a marketing company.
two years has increased to seize their share of the market 3. Compounders purchase intermediate mixtures and
opportunity. In this article, I will describe the where and blend them into the bulk polishes. They can employ a co-
e
how of nail polish production, what factors might influence packer or package the bulk products into finished goods.
of
the manufacturing decision of brand owners and the 4. Contract manufacturers produce the brand owner’s
possible impact of that decision. bulk polishes and intermediates (polish bases and
color dispersions).
Types of Manufacturers 5. A co-packer accepts bulk products in large containers
1. When a manufacturer processes the individual raw and transfers them into smaller bottles to provide the finished
materials to produce the bulk product and packages it goods for the brand name company.
into small bottles for its brand, it is a vertically integrated Outsourcing is available and utilized by small, medium
manufacturing and marketing company. and large corporations alike. It is especially advantageous to
NP2207_ProTalk_fcx.indd 38 7/18/22 9:16 AM

independent brand names of traditional nail polishes. Because same polish on a larger scale. This cost difference is due to
these consist of flammable solvents and nitrocellulose, the impact of labor. The labor cost does not scale up at the
manufacturers must handle them in facilities built to comply same rate as the batch size. For example, a 10,000-kilogram
with fire codes to prevent catastrophic incidents. The batch will not require 10 times the number of hours needed
construction of such buildings is a huge investment. to produce a 1,000-kilogram lot that requires five hours. The
I know of only two manufacturing companies located in the scaled-up lot would need the same number of workers and
northeastern United States serving as contract manufacturers probably will take no more than 10 hours versus 50 if labor
and compounders of traditional nail polishes. They also costs increased at the same rate as the batch size.
produce polish bases and color dispersions in bulk. Their Because the large manufacturers purchase larger
customers send their products to co-packers for packaging quantities of raw materials and ship more products, this
into the finished goods. Most medium-sized companies are situation enables them to negotiate lower prices from their
compounders purchasing the bulk intermediates producing suppliers. Small companies do not have the same privilege
custom colors by blending the color concentrates into the and pay more for raw materials and shipping. Thus, the polish
base and adding special-effect pigments. These companies produced by a large manufacturer for many customers will
act as co-packers for their brand name or as turnkey suppliers cost less than the product from a smaller company.
to small independent brands.
Quality
Outsourcing vs. Vertical Integration The size or type of manufacturer does not dictate product
Of Manufacturing quality. But, the specific organization’s mission and culture
Accountability define the quality of its products. If an organization values
It is more difficult to assign its level of sales and profit over pride in its product quality,
accountability when customers should beware. The responsible manufacturing
outsourcing production. organization will have checks and balances
When a product defect or and ranks quality above all else. Quality control
contamination issue arises, the tests and processes must be robust to catch
root cause of the problem is difficult to assess unless there errant raw materials and any missteps during
is excellent documentation of quality measures throughout production. Compromises in quality and
the entire supply chain process. The more significant ingredients for higher profit are a disservice to
number of manufacturers involved in the process, the more the customer and degrade the industry.
complex the assignment of liability becomes. A turnkey
supplier is best for the marketing company (brand name Product Differentiation
owner) outsourcing production because only one Traditional nail polishes on the market
manufacturer is involved. The marketing company are solvent-based and share a standard
that owns the brand name is responsible to the material set, therefore delivering the
FDA for compliance with its product to the FDA same overall message. These products
cosmetics regulations. The company that owns contain nitrocellulose, ethyl acetate,
the formulation is liable if the product is unsafe butyl acetate and isopropyl alcohol. They
for its intended use. Nothing beats purchasing are differentiated by their brands’ color
products from a vertically integrated manufacturing collections and by each brand’s package
and marketing company in the assignment of design and creative messaging. Some have
accountability for a defective product. botanical extracts at low concentrations
resulting in dubious benefits, except to serve
Cost of Product as a marketing message.
Product cost includes raw materials, packaging, labor, So, when considering how and which
shipping, waste disposal, overhead (clerical pay, various brands will best represent you to your increasingly discerning
insurance, rent, several taxes, marketing expenses, legal fees, clientele, identify the level of quality that speaks to your
employee benefits, etc.) and some profit if all goes well. business culture and creative essence. My advice is to do your
The marketing company outsourcing its production to research, do not compromise performance and never judge a
a turnkey manufacturer benefits from a fixed cost for its polish only by its color! NP
goods. In contrast, a vertically integrated manufacturing and
marketing company shoulders the cost of scrapped failed Vivian Valenty, Ph.D. (@nailpolishdoc), is the founder and
batches or remediated lots that failed initially because of president of VB Cosmetics, the creator and manufacturer of
minor errors in production. Dazzle Dry. She is also a member of Nailpro’s 2022 advisory
There are savings in production costs in manufacturing board. She obtained her doctorate in chemistry from Penn
due to the economy of scale. Everything being equal, the cost State University, and for the past 33 years, has been creating
of producing a small batch is higher than when making the products for the professional nail industry.
NP2207_ProTalk_fcx.indd 39 7/18/22 9:16 AM

WORKSHOP BY VU NGUYEN
IMPLEMENT BASICS
BREAKING DOWN WHAT TOOLS YOU NEED IN YOUR KIT, METHODS TO TAKE CARE OF
THEM AND MAXIMIZATION OF THEIR FUNCTIONALITY AND DURABILITY.
With so many implements available on the market and an A toenail clipper is a larger implement with a wider blade
abundant number of videos made by nonprofessionals, it can area that is designed to trim the toenail to the ideal shape,
be very tricky as to what to look for. The amount of nail care which helps prevent ingrown toenails.
products found online can be overwhelming, and many do not • Using a standard nail clipper on toenails can sometimes be
require a manicurist license to purchase. This can be a cause problematic. The thicker nail of the toe can be too much for
for great concern, especially when dealing with professional- the clippers to cut through and can cause the implement to
grade tools. In my 20 years in this industry, the tools I have break or malfunction.
used regularly were only just a few of the basic implements • Maintenance on nail clippers is very easy. After use, these
offered to professionals. So, let us get into some of the basic implements can go into an implement soaker for the
COURTESY OF APRÉS NAIL AND AMERICANAILS.
tools of the trade used in the salon and how to care for and required time and with the suggested disinfection mixture.
maintain them to maximize their use and life. • For a higher level of sanitation, an autoclave could also
be used. Autoclaves
The Nail Clipper are very similar to
• This is the most common manicure implement; however, pressure cookers
some may not know there is a difference between a nail in the sense that
clipper and a toenail clipper. Nail clippers are smaller and the machine uses
can easily cut down the length of natural nails. These can be heated, pressurized
found in many different finishes from gold to titanium. steam to sterilize
NP2207.08_Workshop_Implements_fcx.indd 40 7/18/22 9:20 AM

nonporous tools. The implements are placed inside a • S
anitation of cuticle nippers should be taken very seriously
sealed pouch that has a color-changing marker to assure and done meticulously and carefully because this is the tool
that the tool being used has been properly sterilized at that can most commonly make contact with blood. (This is a
the correct temperature. big no-no yet it is still common.)
The Toenail Clipper Cuticle Pushers

• Strong enough to cut through thicker, tougher toenails. • Used to push back the cuticle to
• This tool is not recommended to cut length on acrylic or dip expose the nonliving tissue in a simple,
nails as this can fracture the nail or damage the implement. smooth and easy motion.
• Maintenance for toenail clippers is the same as standard nail • C uticle pushers are crucial to a
clippers, and sanitation should follow the same process. successful manicure. Most professional
• Nail clippers and toenail clippers are so widely available nail care products will not stick to
and inexpensive; replacement is easy if these get dull the skin. Therefore, having that clean
after time. cuticle area and a skin-free nail plate can
extend the wear of polish, gel lacquers
Artificial Tip Cutters and enhancements dramatically.
• Cuts down tips in one motion—these are very similar to dog • M any cuticle pushers are dual ended with
nail trimmers. one end to use as an underside cleaner
• I would not recommend using this tool to cut acrylic or and one end to gently push back the
dip nails as this tool can fracture the nail or damage cuticle. This end can also be used to detail
the implement. the sidewalls to remove any remaining
• Maintenance for artificial nail tip cutters is the same as the nonliving tissue.
previous implements and sanitation should be the same. • C uticle pushers are usually inexpensive
enough that if these get dull after time,
Acrylic Nippers replacement is generally easy with no need
• Cuts away at thin enhancements and can help remove lifting for sharpening.
on artificial nails. These are the six must-have implements in my
• This type of nipper is commonly nail station. Keeping track of when your tools are
confused with cuticle nippers. These due for service or replacement is very important
nippers will have a larger jaw, and the and should not be delayed. I cannot stress enough
blade and head of the implement how important it is to sanitize the implements you
will not bend as easily. use—some implements have a special finish on them.
• The price for a really good pair of This can wear or chip away over time or even start to rust from
acrylic nippers can be pretty high; improper maintenance. Remember that if you choose to use an
however, they do usually tend to autoclave, be sure to use distilled water to prolong the life of
last longer if well-maintained. the autoclave unit. Also, be certain that the tools going in can
When these get dull, they handle the heat. With an abundance of options, the biggest
should be serviced and factor to keep in mind is personal comfort—comfort for your
sharpened by a professional. grip as well as for your client. The implements we use help us
• Sanitation on these is the achieve that perfect manicure or enhancement. Using the right
same as described for the tool for right the job will lead to better results and longevity of
previous implements. your finished product. And with these tools, happy nailing. NP
Cuticle Nippers With almost 20 years in the nail industry, Vu Nguyen

• Perfect to remove hangnails or (@voodoonails) has achieved many awards for his artistic
excessive dead tissue (cuticle). talents. He has been part of the Nailpro top 10 competitors,
• These blades need to always has created many covers for trade magazines, and is a member
COURTESY OF APRÉS NAIL AND AMERICANAILS.
be sharp. Do not use this of Nailpro’s 2022 advisory board. For the past 15 years, he
implement to nip at acrylic has been educating nail techs around the world and working
as this can dull the blades with the industry’s top techs and competitors. He trained his
or possibly bend them. younger brother, Robert, who was a finalist on TV’s Nailed It!
• A good pair of cuticle Vu also works closely with the nail world’s best chemists on
nippers can also be very product development and still loves teaching nail techs nail art
pricy, and service should and says, “There is nothing more rewarding to me than to share
be done regularly by a my knowledge of art and give those without any artistic bone
professional sharpener. the ability to be an artist.”
NP2207.08_Workshop_Implements_fcx.indd 41 7/18/22 9:20 AM

NAIL CLINIC BY TRACY MORIN
Koilonychia
SO-CALLED “SPOON NAILS” ARE CAUSED BY A WIDE RANGE OF UNDERLYING
CONDITIONS, BUT YOU CAN HELP IMPROVE THESE NAILS’ APPEARANCE AND
FUNCTIONALITY IN THE SALON.
When it comes to nail conditions that may point to an underlying

health concern, nail techs can be a crucial help to clients by pointing KOILONYCHIA FACTS*
them to a medical professional for further observation or testing. The
phenomenon called koilonychia, which presents as “spoon-shaped”
nails, is one of those conditions—caused by a range of potential • The term “koilonychia” is derived from the
culprits, some potentially serious and requiring further medical Greek word “koilos,” which means hollow, and
“onikh,” which means nail.
attention. By learning a bit about koilonychia, including its appearance
and causes, you will be well-equipped to lend a helping hand and
• 5.4% of patients with koilonychia have iron-
safely proceed with your nail services.
deficiency anemia, inflammatory skin disease
and onychomycosis.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
When describing koilonychia, Jeffrey M. Weinberg, M.D., clinical • In newborns, koilonychia presents as a normal
professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount variant in 33% of cases, especially affecting
Sinai in New York City, points to the comprehensive article “Nail the big toe, which regresses spontaneously
Abnormalities: Clues To Systemic Disease” by Robert S. Fawcett, M.D., after the age of nine once the nail plate
M.S.; Sean Linford, M.D.; and Daniel L. Stulberg, M.D., published thickens and hardens.
in a 2004 volume of American Family Physician. “Koilonychia is
• Koilonychia is considerably more prevalent
represented by transverse and longitudinal concavity of the nail,
in developing countries: 36%, or 1.4 billion
resulting in a ‘spoon-shaped’ nail,” the article states. “This abnormality
out of a 3.8-billion estimated population in
is sometimes a normal nail variant in infants, but it usually corrects
developing countries, versus 8%, or just under
itself within the first few years of life.” However, Weinberg adds that 100 million out of a 1.2- billion estimated
koilonychia is not very common in adults. population in developed countries.
According to Shari Lipner M.D., Ph.D., associate professor of
clinical dermatology and director of the nail division at Weill Cornell • When koilonychia is related to anemia, the
Medicine in New York City, if you are looking at a concave (curved nails return to normal within four to six months
inward) nail shape, you may be seeing koilonychia. “An easy way to of increasing iron intake.
test for koilonychia is to put a drop of water on the nail—for a person
with koilonychia, the water will stay on the nail and not fall off,” Lipner
explains. “People with koilonychia usually have no other symptoms, *“Spoon Nails” by Dipali G. Rathod and Sidharth Sonthalia
and the nails are not painful.” (www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK559311)
NP2207_NailClinic_fcx.indd 42 7/18/22 9:29 AM

A MULTITUDE OF CAUSES
Chris G. Adigun, M.D., FAAD, a board-certified
dermatologist at Dermatology & Laser Center of Chapel Hill
in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, notes that koilonychia can
be an important clinical clue to a variety of dermatological
diseases. These include psoriasis, lichen planus, alopecia
areata, onychomycosis (a fungal infection of the nails) and
genodermatoses (a hereditary skin disease). But, it may
also result from nondermatological causes, such as iron-
deficiency anemia, hypothyroidism, hyperthyroidism and
diabetes mellitus.
Repeated occupational trauma is another possible A dermatologist may do further blood testing to determine the cause
culprit, so you might even see koilonychia among your of koilonychia.
co-workers in the salon. “Repeated skin-irritant exposure—
most often occupational, such as chemical exposures HOW YOU CAN HELP
for hairdressers, or repeated water exposure among Although not required or trained, nail techs are in a prime
foodservice and healthcare workers, may also be a cause position to notice nail abnormalities—and potentially help
of koilonychia,” Adigun says. “Atopic dermatitis, or chronic the client by recommending a physician’s checkup. “If this
hand dermatitis, may also eventually cause koilonychia if it presentation is observed, then referral to a dermatologist
has been a longstanding issue.” would be helpful,” Weinberg says. “Nail professionals [can]
However, Weinberg adds that, most commonly, go online and Google images of this condition to familiarize
koilonychia is a manifestation of chronic iron deficiency, themselves with the clinical presentation. Koilonychia is
which may result from a variety of causes. “These include diagnosed by clinical evaluation, and after a laboratory workup,
malnutrition, gastrointestinal blood loss, gastrointestinal if iron deficiency is present, supplements may be helpful to
malignancy and celiac disease,” he says. “Additional causes improve the nails’ appearance.”
of koilonychia are high altitude, trauma and exposure to Luckily, in the case of koilonychia, your client should not
petroleum products. It can even be hereditary.” have to submit to arduous tests, at least initially. “Koilonychia
Lipner adds a few more possible causes: heart disease, is diagnosed with a careful physical examination, and no
systemic lupus erythematosus and Raynaud’s phenomenon. nail biopsies are generally needed,” Lipner explains. “If
Fawcett’s report also notes nail-patella syndrome as a your dermatologist suspects psoriasis or onychomycosis,
potential cause; this is an inherited condition that can also a noninvasive nail clipping is taken. For many of the other
include “hypoplastic, easily dislocated patellas; renal and conditions that might cause koilonychia, blood testing can help
skeletal abnormalities; and glaucoma.” determine the cause of the koilonychia.”
Interestingly, the report states that Though Lipner notes that there are no direct treatments
koilonychia also “occasionally occurs in for koilonychia, the condition will improve if the underlying
patients with hemochromatosis,” which problem is treated—for example, if the patient has
is a disorder in which extra iron builds up onychomycosis, an antifungal medication will be prescribed
in the body—in other words, the opposite to treat the problem and therefore improve or eradicate the
issue of iron deficiency or koilonychia symptoms.
anemia. Hence, when spoon But, in the meantime, how should you work with clients if
nails are present without koilonychia is an issue? Are there any things you can do to
an obvious associated help, or are there nail care steps you should avoid? Though nail
illness, the report notes techs should not diagnose or treat nail disesases or disorders,
that physicians should Lipner advises “Nail technicians [can get] familiar with the
order a complete presentation of koilonychia so the client [may] be referred to
blood count and ferritin a board-certified dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.
test, to determine In addition, people with koilonychia may benefit from gel
if iron deficiency or manicures. With that treatment, the indentation or concavity
hemochromatosis is in the nail is filled in, with the result that the nail looks better
causing the issue. esthetically and is more functional.” NP
Tracy Morin is a freelance writer and editor based in

Oxford, Massachusetts.
Sources: “Nail Abnormalities: Clues to Systemic Disease,” by Robert S.

Fawcett, M.D., M.S., Sean Linford, M.D., and Daniel L. Stulberg, M.D.
(https://www.aafp.org/pubs/afp/issues/2004/0315/p1417.html)
NP2207_NailClinic_fcx.indd 43 7/18/22 9:29 AM

TEST YOURSELF
QUIZ ..............................................
In each issue, you will find a multiple-choice

test that will allow you to demonstrate what
you have learned from our Nail Clinic column.
Discover answers to this month’s test on Page
42. Then check if you got them correct at the
bottom of this quiz!
1. If a nail tech suspects that a client has koilonychia, a

referral to a dermatologist can be helpful.
A. True
B. False
2. Nondermatological causes of koilonychia can include __.

A. Iron-deficiency anemia
B. Hypothyroidism
C. Diabetes mellitus 7. Clients with koilonychia may benefit from __ to help with
D. All the above the nails’ appearance and functionality.
A. Exfoliation
3. Too little or too much iron in the body can cause B. Nail soaks
koilonychia. C. Gel manicures
A. True D. None of the above
B. False
8. Repeated exposure to __ may be a cause of koilonychia.
4. Koilonychia presents as __. A. Skin irritants
A. Convex nails B. Water
B. A bacterial infection C. Oil
C. Spoon-shaped nails D. Both A and B
D. None of the above
9. Koilonychia is sometimes a normal nail variant in infants,
5. Koilonychia usually causes pain in the affected nails. but it usually corrects itself within the first few years of life.
A. True A. True
B. False B. False
6. Which of the following dermatological diseases might 10. Which of the following is/are typically used to diagnose
cause koilonychia? koilonychia?
A. Psoriasis A. Physical examination
B. Alopecia areata B. Nail clipping
C. Lichen planus C. Nail biopsy
D. All the above D. Both A and B
10) D 9) A 8) D 7) C 6) D 5) B 4) C 3) A 2) D Answers to July/August 2022 test: 1) A
NP2207_Test_Yourself_fcx.indd 46 7/18/22 9:35 AM

@nailpromagazine
EDITORIAL
AD INDEX
Editor in Chief Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com Premier Nail Source....................................44-45
Content Director Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Managing Editor Mai-Quyen Nguyen | 1-630-344-6068/mnguyen@allured.com www.premiernailsource.com
Senior Editor Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com
News Editor Pier Rogers | 1-630-344-6045/progers@allured.com The GelBottle Inc.............................................. 47
SOCIAL MEDIA www.thegelbottle.us
Social Media Specialist Angelina Lewis | 1-630-344-6052/alewis@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Uline.................................................................... 11
Director of Sales Tony Dellamaria | 1-630-344-6020/tdellamaria@allured.com
www.uline.com
Business Development Manager Shamella Anderson | 1-630-344-6030/sanderson@allured.com
Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
US Crystal.......................................................... 2-3
Advertising Production Assistant Kristie Lavaud | 1-630-344-6039/klavaud@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT www.uscrystal.com
Marketing Specialist Meghan Iles
Customer Service 1-847-559-7551/customerservice@nailpro.com
DESIGN
Assistant Design Manager James Fergus
Graphic Designer Laura Fenwick
Production Manager Kyle Torian
CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Marketing & Creative Director Kim Fry
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

Beauty Accelerate Face & Body spa expo
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine and conferences
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Beauty Launchpad magazine
Portuguese edition Beauty Go Pro Show
Perfumer & Flavorist+ magazine Nailpro magazine
Flavorcon Nailpro show
World Perfumery Congress WellSpa 360 magazine
Skin Inc. magazine WellSpa 360 Expo
Allured Business Media

1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
www.Allured.com
For Subscriptions: Online: www.nailpro.com/subscribe

For both the U.S. and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7551
(8 AM to 4:30 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816
Email: customerservice@nailpro.com
Address: Nailpro, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition.
Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change to become
effective. The publisher will attempt to handle unsolicited articles with care, but the magazine assumes no responsibility for them.
Materials will be returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed envelope with return postage. Address inquiries regarding edi-
torial policy and writer guidelines to the editor. The acceptance of advertising does not necessarily carry the endorsement of the
publisher.
Nailpro (ISSN 1049-4553) is published nine times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov./Dec.
issues by Allured Business Media.
Address: Nailpro, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403.
www.nailpro.com
All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Nailpro,
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403. Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream, IL and additional mailing
offices.
POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Nailpro, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009.
Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical
inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within
this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors
or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or affiliated with this publication.
Copyright 2022: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.
Nailpro is a registered trademark of Allured Publishing Corporation.
NP2207_Masthead_fcx.indd 47 7/18/22 12:05 PM

DAILY INSPO
ALYSSA FRONCE
@alyssanailtech
Alyssa Fronce grew up in the Central New York/Syracuse

area and lives there with her husband and son. After high
school, she worked as a receptionist at her sister’s salon.
At her sister’s encouragement, Fronce went to school and
received her nail license in 2010. “I have been a nail tech
for more than 12 years. Other than what little you learn in
school, I am completely self-taught, focusing on gel polish
on natural nails, dry (e-file) manicures and hand-painted nail
art,” she shares. “I am extremely detail oriented and a bit
of a perfectionist. I have found this great little niche in my
area that no one else offers, which has made me extremely
successful. Hand-painted nail art is my passion!” See what
inspires her to create.
IMAGES COURTESY OF ALYSSA FRONCE; HEADSHOT BY PAUL KAMMER OF EDGES PHOTOGRAPHY
1
FLORALS
“I absolutely LOVE floral
nails. When a client says,
‘Do whatever you want,’ floral
is usually what they get. I gain
inspiration for floral nails from
companies like Rifle Paper
Co., clothing patterns or real
flowers outside.”
NP2207_Daily_Inspo_irv.indd 48 7/18/22 10:06 AM

2
MIX AND MATCH
“These mix and match sets
are one of my favorite things
to do. They are not for everyone,
but when I have a client who
wants to do them, I get extremely
excited because they never
disappoint. Other nail techs on
Instagram provide me with inspo
for sets like these—this specific
set was inspired by
@gxbbygossipnails.”
3
SWEATERS
“Textured sweater nails are
so popular during the winter
and Christmas season; they look
good in any color. The matte
background with the textured
pattern really makes the design
pop. And the best part? This
design is very easy to achieve,
but the results look incredible. I
gained inspo from this specific
sweater [pictured].”
4
TORTOISESHELL
“Tortoiseshell will never
go out of style. These
nails are so fun yet so classy.
It can be paired with almost
anything and still look amazing.
The first time I did tortoiseshell
IMAGES COURTESY OF ALYSSA FRONCE; HEADSHOT BY PAUL KAMMER OF EDGES PHOTOGRAPHY
nails, I tried to figure it out by

looking at a pair of tortoiseshell
sunglasses and tweaked my
technique from there.”
5
ABSTRACT
“Inspo from abstract sets
can come from anywhere.
For this set, we combined all
these colors the client wanted
and ran with it from there—
adding things along the way that
seemed to fill in the gaps nicely.
We then topped it off with a
gold-foiled moon.”
JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | CV3
NP2207_Daily_Inspo_irv.indd 3 7/18/22 10:10 AM

Celebrating the differences that make professional beauty and aesthetics shine.
August 20-22, 2022

San Jose, California
Learn more at nailproshow.com
NP_ShadesofBeauty_FLPage.indd 2 2/10/22 12:30 PM

August 20-22, 2022 San Jose, California: Celebrating The Differences That Make Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Shine

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

August 20-22, 2022 San Jose, California: Celebrating The Differences That Make Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Shine

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

August 20-22, 2022 San Jose, California: Celebrating The Differences That Make Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Shine

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Celebrating the differences that make professional beauty and aesthetics shine.

August 20-22, 2022

Learn more at nailproshow.com

NP_ShadesofBeauty_FLPage.indd 2 2/10/22 12:30 PM

NP2207_cover_fcx.indd 2 7/18/22 6:08 AM

22 THE LATEST TIPS ON DIPS

26 THE CUTICLE HAS GOT TO GO!

29 VIDEO: CURETTE AND PUSHER

30 VIDEO: E-FILE TIPS

NP2207_TOC_DM.indd 4 7/18/22 10:48 AM

TRENDING NAIL TECHNIQUES

SPATE TREND ALERT: TWISTS AND TURNS

18 JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 5

NP2207_TOC_irv.indd 5 7/18/22 11:34 AM

NEONS, DIPS AND LAMPS

Cleaners, Compression and Creams

After getting sick in June, my urge to

6 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_ EditorsNote_fcx.indd 6 7/18/22 6:29 AM

NP_2021_Multimedia_print_ad.indd 1 2/10/22 1:32 PM

8 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_Guide_Happenings_Pointers_fcx.indd 8 7/18/22 6:50 AM

SKIN IN THE GAME

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 9

NP2207_Guide_Happenings_Pointers_fcx.indd 9 7/18/22 6:50 AM

10 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_Guide_Happenings_Pointers_fcx.indd 10 7/18/22 6:51 AM

Best Foot Forward

Orange You Glad?

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 11

NP2207_Guide_Happenings_Pointers_fcx.indd 11 7/18/22 6:51 AM

Nailpro: Why did you become a nail tech?

Tropical SUMMER where the real journey began.

Nailpro: When did you get into nail art?

12 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_CreatingThe Cover_fcx.indd 12 7/18/22 6:58 AM

Jose Cordova (@TheNailOnyx) was

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 13

NP2207_CreatingThe Cover_fcx.indd 13 7/18/22 6:59 AM

Newbie licensed nail tech Alexis Auer

Inspired by Spring 2019 Inspired by Fall 2014

Inspired by Spring 2020

14 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_Polished_Look_fcx.indd 14 7/18/22 7:05 AM

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 15

NP2207_Portfolio_fcx.indd 15 7/18/22 7:20 AM

The GelBottle Inc. Revel Nail

Aster Crocus Flax Kingcup Matteverse Heyday Frolic Strut

Orange Princess Peppermint Princess Sugargloss Tiffany Flaunt Funhouse Parade

16 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207.08_InsideLook_fcx.indd 16 7/18/22 7:28 AM

Ugly Duckling Nails

Lollapalooza Summer Jam Coachella

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 17

NP2207.08_InsideLook_fcx.indd 17 7/18/22 7:28 AM

18 | NAILPRO JULY/AUGUST 2022

NP2207_Nailspiration_fcx.indd 18 7/18/22 7:34 AM

JULY/AUGUST 2022 NAILPRO.COM | 19

NP2207_Nailspiration_fcx.indd 19 7/18/22 7:34 AM