Scobro

Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page .............................................
2
Tube Resources ................................................................. 4
Biasing your Rivera Amp ................................................... 10
Definition of Terms .......................................................... 14
Rivera EQ Guide............................................................... 17
General Rivera Links......................................................... 22
Rivera Modifications ......................................................... 26
Rivera Power Tube Guide ................................................. 28
Rivera Preamp Tube Guide ............................................... 34
Rivera Speaker Guide ....................................................... 46
Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page
:: Scobro's Home Page :: Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page ::
:: Preamp Tube Guide :: Power Tube Guide :: Definition of Terms :: Tube Resources :: Biasing your Rivera Amp :: EQ Guide :: Speaker Guide
:: Modifications :: General Rivera Links ::
Email: scobro@softhome.net
Last Updated: December 25, 2003

Major addition to the website. Richard Johnson has written up a how-to biasing page specifically for Rivera amps. If ya got a question on bi-
asing, he's the man. I know nothing. As for my part, I did some html cleaning. If anyone experienced funky inconsistent font sizes, it should be
cleaned up now.
Two bits of advice
One: It's always better to find your own "great tone" then trying to imitate some famous guitarist's "great tone". Everyone plays the guitar differ-
ently in some manner and we all use different equipment. It gets more exaggerated when we're talking about a famous guitarist from a different
era and a different tax bracket. Whatever made that particular tone "work" for them will usually only sound like a poor imitation if we tried it on
our own skills and equipment.
Two: Rivera is the best at what they do. Rare is any modification a straightforward improvement, but usually simply a lateral change. No more is
true then the saying, "Just because it worked for them, doesn't mean it'll work for you." Tweaking is an expensive sport, especially when you get
it wrong. The only exception to this rule is tubes. Like with almost all amp companies, Rivera must rely on in-production tubes because the better
NOS tubes lack the consistent availability and price at the bulk they need.
Preamp Tube Guide / Power Tube Guide
Definition of Terms / Tube Resources
Different tubes sound different in different amps, just how it goes. These two guides are specifically for Rivera amplifiers and should help
you along in finding that elusive tone you're looking for. Before you check them out, take a quick read through Definition of Terms page. For
more info on tubes and some places you can buy them from, go to the Tube Resources page.
Biasing your Rivera Amp - by Richard Johnson.
EQ Guide - The basics of EQ'ing the Rivera.
Speaker Guide - Description of speaker available from Rivera.
Modifications - Common Rivera mods.
General Rivera Links - More and more stuff.

Tube Resources
:: Current Tube Manufacturers :: Tube Relabelers :: Online Tube Retail Stores :: Auction Sites :: Bias Tools :: Guitar Amp Bias Meters ::
Current Tube Manufacturers

This list is based upon the commonly used brand names that retail stores will use. The whole tube producing process can be very convoluted
with many independent entities along the chain before appearing in retail stores.
Ei / Electronic Industries (Yugo) [Yugoslavia] Mediocre tubes with the exception of their 12AX7. A popular preamp tube used as a Telefunken
substitution though its tone is still in the category of the Eastern European midsy murky tone. Due to its noise problem, and a high defect rate be-
cause of it, this tube is normally only used in clean.
JJ Electronics (Teslovak / Tesla) [Slovak Republic] The name "Tesla" is defunct but people still call them that, as it's the same tubes. Once an in-
dependent manufacturer, they're now in association with Groove Tubes and Penta Laboratories. The tubes that Groove Tubes imply they manu-
factured themselves were made by JJ Electronics. A few guitar amp manufactures still use these tubes but for the most part, they have been re-
placed by other brands producing better tubes. The ECC83-S has the signature Eastern European midsy murky tone, however the similar sounding
Sovtek 12AX7EH is by far a superior tube.
New Sensor (Sovtek / Electro Harmonix) [Russia] Sovtek has a large catalog of tubes for guitar amps and the only manufacturer with a variety of
guitar preamp tubes. The new "Electro Harmonix" series are a good quality line, a description never given to Sovtek previously. The only hold
over is the 6L6EH, which is the same as their previous 6L6WXT+. This is a very bright tube intended as a substitute for the RCA 6L6GC tube re-
quired in Fender Tweed style amps and will not tonally work in many other types of amps. The Sovtek's preamp tubes, despite their advertise-
ments, have the same signature Eastern European midsy murky tone of varying degrees of quality. New Sensor also sorts and matches their own
tubes as well as other brands. Online catalog available.
Svetlana [Russia] Specialized in power tubes, Svetlana has been a long favorite of guitar manufacturers and guitarists for their good tone and
sturdy reliability. Many consider their tubes to be near equals of vintage American tubes like GE. On their website, there is a well written article
about tubes. Svetlana was going to manufacture a much needed 12AX7 tube based on the Mullard ECC83, however only the initial prototype has
appeared and nothing more since.
Shuguang (Valve Art) [China] Like Sovtek, Shuguang has greatly improved their power tubes by attempting to recreate notable vintage tubes.
Earlier Chinese power tubes were considered so bad that many guitar amp manufacturers warned that the use of them could damage the amp. And
like Sovtek, Shuguang is now considered one of the better power tube manufacturers along with Svetlana. Shuguang is also producing the Sino
Chinese 12AX7A tubes that are required in most high gain guitar amps. They were plans on producing the better 7025-STR preamp tube, how-
ever at this point, the project may have been scrapped.
Note, Chinese tubes are inconsistently labeled. They are usually branded either Chinese, Shuguang, Valve Art, or by the relabeler Ruby
Tubes. The actual specific Chinese manufacturer is sometimes difficult to ascertain, however luckily there is no tube type overlap and can be
listed as a single group.
Tube Relabelers
A Relabeler is a company that imports tubes from various manufacturers, sorts out defects of all types, and then sells them to wholesalers
and retailers. In the process, the Relabeler will wash the original imprint off the tube, place their own imprint, and place them in their own boxes.
Guitar stores who do not have the expertise or equipment to deal with tubes can open up their wholesaler catalog, buy in small quantities,
and stock them along with the guitar amplifiers they sell.
The common misconception that these companies manufacture their own tubes stems mainly from the Groove Tubes marketing ploy of
completely renaming the tubes they import.
Fender Musical Instruments - Those Fender labeled tubes you see in guitar stores are done by Groove Tubes.
Groove Tubes - The tubes that Groove Tubes imply they manufacturer are done so by JJ Electronics (Tesla) and can be purchased by any retailer
carrying Tesla tubes. The one exception is the GT-KT66 power tube, which is produced solely for Groove Tubes. Groove Tubes offers graded
power tubes. The high price of Groove Tubes is more representing of the convenience of being able to buy these tubes most anywhere then the
quality of these tubes.
New Tube Company - This relabeler is not as widespread as Groove Tubes or Ruby Tubes but they're in most wholesaler's catalogs. Online cata-
log available.
Ruby Tubes / Magic Parts - Ruby Tubes carry various types of tubes though the main specialty is Chinese tubes. For some Chinese tubes, espe-
cially recently produced ones, Ruby Tubes will be the only relabeler offering them.
Sovtek / New Sensor - Most wholesalers and retail stores will only purchase Sovtek tubes from Sovtek. However, they also process other brands.
Online catalog available.
Online Tube Retail Stores

The easiest tubes to purchase are currently produced Preamp Tubes, mainly for reasons that they're relatively inexpensive and simple to re-
place. When purchasing Power Tubes, they should be well sorted and well matched. Power Tubes can sound fine initially and begin to show prob-
lems a month later. Well sorted Power Tubes can minimize this issue. Also, Rivera amps benefit from tightly matched Power Tubes. Guitar amps
actually sound better with slightly unmatched Power Tubes. However, with amps that have a High / Low Power Switch or Vintage (Triode) /
Modern (Pentode) Switch like a Rivera, badly matched Power Tubes will cause a noticeable hum that is independent of the Volume and Master
Volume knobs. Sometimes this is unavoidable since tubes tend to drift with use.
The best place to buy NOS tubes from is still that local guy who sells tubes inside his garage. If you need to go through a retailer, the general
rule is "what you pay is what you get." Cheap NOS tubes, despite the name brand, are likely to result in cheap tone.
Note, not all retailers that deal with guitar tubes are experienced with guitar amps. The types of tubes used in guitar amps are also commonly
used in pro audio equipment and vintage radios. If you are as yet unconfident with your tube knowledge, I recommend purchasing from a retailer
that sells tubes specifically for guitar amps.
Antique Electronic Supply [Tempe, Arizona] This place is an old favorite of tech hobbyist for various parts. They sell currently produced preamp
tubes. Online catalog available though difficult to browse through.
ATSI, Advantage Tube Services (Ken Chait) [Lake Worth, Florida] Catalog includes NOS and currently produced tubes for guitar amplifiers.
Online catalog available.
KCA, Kropotkin Classic Amplification (Mike Kropotkin) [Sterling, Virginia] Popular online retailer for their well sorted NOS tubes specifically
for guitar amps. KCA also sells some currently produced tubes. Inventory is listed on the website.
New Sensor / Sovtek [New York, New York] Most retailers do not sell the full Sovtek catalog, like the 12AX7WB and 12AX7LP that Rivera
uses. Online catalog available.
NBS Electronics (Willie Whitaker, aka Lord Valve) [Denver, Colorado] Popular online retailer for currently produced tubes specifically for guitar
amps. Catalog available by way of email. NBS stands for No Bull Shit.
The Tube Store [Hamilton, Ontario, Canada] Popular online retailer for currently produced tubes specifically for guitar amps. Graded power tubes
available. Excellent layout of online catalog.
Triode Electronics (Ned Carlson) [Chicago, Illinois] Popular online retailer for currently produced tubes for guitar amps. Online catalog available.
Tube World Inc. (Brendan Biever) [Sheboygan, Wisconsin] Large catalog of various NOS and ANOS tubes. All ANOS tubes have a description
of the condition. Inventory list on website.
Vacuum Tube Valley [Lakeport, California] Popular magazine on tubes and tube amplifiers. VTV also sells some NOS and currently produced
tubes. Inventory list on website.
WiWi Tubes (Lorenz Tang) [Hong Kong, China] Large stock of various types of NOS tubes. Can be a good bargain if you don't mind the long
distance shipping. Inventory list on website.
Auction Sites
Auction sites are like swap meets. People don't go to swap meets to buy something specific but to find a bargain. It's very difficult to win an
auction on a specific tube at a bargain price, as this is usually a tube that is in high demand. Buy the specific tubes you want, and will be relying
on, from a retailer. Then collect the just-for-fun tubes on auction sites.
Do not get emotionally caught up in the auction. Before bidding on a tube, check tube retailer sites that list their prices. Your highest bid
should be well below what you can get retail, as it is less likely to be as well sorted. Decide on your highest bid and keep to it.
The tube's label does not necessarily denote the true manufacturer. The one reliable constant is the "Made in" print. For example, if the GE
tube reads "Made in Hungary", then it's a Tungsram. Check or ask the seller for the "Made in" print and this will either help to authenticate the
brand or at least give you an idea of its relative tone and quality. The Definition of Terms page has a listing of the country locations of major tube
manufacturers.
Tips:
Find auctions that end on days that people are less likely to be online like weekends and holidays. There will be less "snipers", those who bid
at the last second, to drastically increase the price.
Find auctions that are badly posted causing fewer potential bidders to find it. For example, a seller auctioning off 5751 preamp tubes but
doesn't include "12AX7" in the header. Most guitarists usually only enter "12AX7" in their search.
There are many sellers that are retailers auctioning off surplus or unwanted stock. Email them to see if they're willing to sell to you directly.
For the lazy, enter your high bid at the beginning. This can sometimes scare away other bidders, but unfortunately, it usually doesn't.
eBay - For tubes, eBay is the only online auction big enough for this specialty market. Easily the biggest offerings of NOS tubes on the Internet.
Bias Tools
These are some basic tools for biasing a tube amplifier. See Richard Johnson's "Biasing your Rivera Amp".
Fluke Corporation - The best manufacturer of Digital Multimeters.
Power Designs - Manufacturers of Variac.
Guitar Amp Bias Meters

These easy-to-use products allow a guitarist to fine tune their tube amplifier's bias themselves. Run the power tubes cool for a smoother tone
with high clean headroom. Or run them hot for an aggressive tone with an earlier breakup. Note, these products were not intended to bias an am-
plifier for new power tubes.
Alessandro Bias and Matching Meter (Alessandro High-End Products) - Analog meter of the Plate Current. This requires knowledge of your
amp's Plate Voltage before adjustments can be made. This product does not need a power source.
Bias King (Ambient Sound) - Digital readout of the Cathode Current. This requires knowledge of your amp's Plate Voltage before adjustments
can be made. Originally produced by Svetlana. Powered by the power tubes' AC filament, which is fine in a Rivera.
Bias Rite (WeberVST) - Digital readout of the Cathode Current. This requires knowledge of your amp's Plate Voltage before adjustment can be
made. Powered by an internal 9 volt battery. Coming soon: Ultimate Bias Rite. Digital readout of the Plate Voltage, Cathode Current, Screen
Voltage, Control Grid Voltage, and Static Dissipation Wattage. With this information, you should be able to bias an amp with this meter.
Biasing your Rivera Amp
By Richard Johnson
Email: ricjohn2@bellsouth.net
Updated: October 18, 2003
For reference, Willie Whitaker's (Lord Valve) "How to Bias Your Amplifier" and Rivera's "Biasing Instructions" is still on the website.
Let's get this part out of the way right now…
WARNING: Your amplifier is a dangerous place to poke around. It has lethal Voltages in it. If you don't know what you're doing, then take your
amp to a tech. If you are game then give it a try. Just be very careful. At any rate I take no responsibility for the use of the information in this
document. You are totally at your own risk.
Why Bias an Amp

Why bias an amp? The same reason you set the idle on a car - because your amp will sound and perform better. Plus with biasing you can change the way your
amp reacts. You can set it to be really clean with a lot of headroom and dynamics, or set it to break up quickly with a more compressed sound. To not be over
technical, biasing an amp sets the amount of idle current on the output tubes.
Methods of Biasing an Amp
There are several ways to Bias an amp. One is with a Test Oscillator and an Oscilloscope (or 'Scope). This is how most techs bias an amp, is the method recom-
mended by most manufacturers. Another way to bias is called the Transformer Shunt Method. This is a great method because it only requires a Digital Voltage
Multimeter (DVM) and some alligator clips. A third method is the Cathode Resistor Method. This usually involves modifying the amp and isn't very easy to use on
a Rivera, since the power tube sockets are on a circuit board. However, there is an easier way to use the Cathode Resistor method, which is to use a couple Biasing
tools on the market. One is called the Bias Probe which actually includes a built in meter (but only works with amps using AC heater voltage - so it one works on the
M and S-series Rivera amp) and the other is the Bias Kit from Groove Tubes (my choice) which requires an additional DVM. The final method is to measure the Main
idle current method, which is the method recommended by Rivera. We'll call this the Rivera Method. The Rivera method requires an AC Mains Current meter, but
a DVM will work as well and since they are inexpensive, I'd recommend getting the DVM for this method.
I am not going to describe the Scope method because it requires expensive equipment, including a scope an oscillator and a dummy load in place of the speaker. I
will describe the transformer shunt and how to use the Groove Tubes Bias Kit. I used to use the Transformer shunt method extensively, but ended up buying the
Bias Kit, because I'm lazy. With the Bias Kit you don't have to remember where to clip the DVM's leads. This is nice if you own several different brands of amps.
Both these methods work great but aren't quite as easy as the Rivera Method (Mains Current), so this is the method I'm going to describe.
Getting Started
First, get a matched pair or quad of output tubes if you are changing tubes. Rivera uses Svetlana brand tubes but I've found that JJ/Tesla and good NOS tubes work
well too. (Hint - check out the page on output tubes…). Don't worry about getting a "Name" re-branded tube from one of the fancy resellers. You just need a de-
cently matched set from a reputable seller. If your amp has Rivera tubes in it you can also just buy the same rated tubes - however, you still might want to re-bias
to get just the sound you want.
You also need a DVM. You can get one from your local Radio Shack for under $50. A regular voltmeter isn't good enough, you need the digital variety.
You also need a jeweler's screwdriver, or better yet a small insulated screw driver.
Unplug your amp's power cord and footswitch. Also remove any guitar chords from the input jacks of the amp. Remove the amp's chassis from the case. On most
Rivera's you can do this by removing the back panel and then unscrewing all of the screws on the top of the amp cabinet. Unplug the speaker and reverb wires (if
the amp has reverb). I find that you can usually place the amp on top of the cabinet. Just don't rest the amp on the power tubes, but you can rest it on the trans-
formers. Un-plug the speaker cable - this is important. The Rivera method is opposite of most in that it requires that the first speaker jack has no connection. If your
amp has a Modern/Vintage (or Pentode/Triode) switch make sure it is in the Modern (Pentode) position.
WARNING - be very careful inside the amp. Do not poke around with your fingers. You can seriously hurt or even kill yourself by touching the wrong component.
With the amp open and the circuit board facing you, locate the bias pot. This is generally a small black plastic part with a white screwdriver adjustment in the mid-
dle. This is how you adjust the flow of current to your power tubes and "bias" the amp.
The Bias Pot looks something like the above.
Make sure the amp is turned off before starting.
Biasing to Rivera's Recommendations
Clip the negative (black) probe of the DVM to the chassis of the amp. The positive (Red) lead needs to be connected to pin 8 of one of the power tubes. These con-
nections are not easy to clip to. Fortunately, you can clip the positive lead to a connection on the Speaker jack output board. Locate the Speaker one jack and di-
rectly behind it you will find a small black wire connected to the board. Connect your DVM positive lead there. Set the DVM to the Auto Voltage setting and turn it
on.
Make sure there is nothing connected to the speakers jacks of your amp. Connect the power cord and turn on the power switch. Wait a minute and turn on the
stand by switch. Let the amp warm up for a minute or two. Read the DVM meter. If it is fluctuating over a large range then wait a while longer until it settles down.
Once it is stable or fluctuates only a little bit you are ready to adjust your amp.
A good place to start setting your bias is with the Rivera defaults. Use the following settings from the Rivera FAQ as a starting point:
R30 and Chubster 40 Models are set to 70 MADC Total for both tubes, or 35 MADC for each.
All of our 55 and 60 Watt Output Stages are set to 80-85 MADC for both tubes, or 40-42.5 MADC for each tube.
All of our 100 watt models are set for 160-170 MADC for all 4 tubes, or 40-42.5 MADC for each.
Locate the bias pot and adjust the pot until the DVM reads within the above values for your model of amp. Now you have your amp properly biased!
Additional Notes on Biasing
This section will discuss the merits of using different bias settings than the recommended ones. The only wrong settings are those at the extremes or those that
cause the power tubes to glow red. If your tubes are glowing red (not orange) then you need to turn off the amp and lower the bias. If you don't lower the bias,
the tubes will last for minutes instead of months.
Why would you want to set the bias to a different setting? The reason is to fine tune the amp to your style or needs. Biased to stock settings the Rivera amp will
cover a lot of great sounds; I personally find them perfect for my needs.
But let's say you play blues and don't want the cleanest clean. You want a slightly gritty clean and you'd like the amp to break up earlier and have a hotter sound.
You can bias the amp hotter. Then you might want to set the bias to 45-50 MADC for a 55/60 watt amp. Just make sure the tubes are not glowing red. Disconnect
the meter, turn the amp off. Hook up the speaker and your guitar and play the amp. Is it too gritty or break up too soon? Back off the bias setting a little and try
again.
Let's say you play steel in a country band and want the cleanest sound. You would then want to bias the amp colder. So your might bias that 55/60 watt amp to 35-
40 MADC to increase the clean headroom.
Remember the best setting is the one that gets you the sound and feel you want.
More Information
Of course the Rivera website's FAQ has a lot of great information. Some good references on tube amps in general are "The Tube Amp Book by Aspen Pittman" and
"A Desktop Reference of Hip Vintage Guitar Amps" by Gerald Weber. I learned a lot from these books and some of the contents of this article are derived from what
I learned. Also if you know a good tech, buy him lunch and pick his brain (but don't be too much of a pest!), you'll learn a lot.
Definition of Terms
:: Preamp Tube Guide :: Power Tube Guide :: Definition of Terms :: Tube Resources :: Biasing your Rivera Amp :: EQ Guide :: Speaker
Guide :: Modifications :: General Rivera Links ::
ANOS (Almost NOS) - Out of production tubes that are slightly used. Sometimes a bargain as American and Western Europe tubes will often
last much longer then current modern era tubes. See NOS.
Clean - Undistorted acoustic-like clean tone. Unlike "headroom" that refers to volume, "clean" refers to tone. For example, a Fender Strato-
caster sounds cleaner then a Les Paul Gibson.
Gain Stage - The Gain Stage of the preamp produces the initial amplification before entering the power stage (power tubes). The power stage
does the bulk of the amplification. Of the preamp tubes, those in the Gain Stage have the most effect on the tone and are the most sensitive to
noise. For a Rivera, the American Channel's gain stage slots are V1 & V3. The British Channel are V1, V2, & V3. And those with a high gain
channel, are V1, V2, V3, & V4.
Graded Power Tubes - Matched power tubes that are sorted into "graded" groups with a similar plate current. This is a service by tube com-
panies for a guitarist to be able to switch out the power tubes in their guitar amplifier without needing a bias adjustment. However, the guitar
amplifier will not sound perfectly the same each time. A tube amplifier's bias will naturally drift over time and most graded power tubes have
similar plate current, not exactly. There is no industry standard and all tube companies' graded power tubes are incompatible with other grading
systems.
Headroom or Clean Headroom - The amount of volume a tube or amplifier is capable of producing before breaking up into distortion.
JAN (Joint Army Navy) - American tubes built for the military in comparison to tube made for civilian commercial use. Because the military
released their stockpile in the 80's, it's often cheaper to buy the military version then the civilian version originally used in vintage amps.
Modern Era Tubes - Eastern European, Russian, and Chinese tubes produced about 1980 and on. See below.
NIB (New In Box or NOS In Box) - NOS tubes that are in the original box. The box will deteriorate long before the tube itself so most NOS
tubes are sold in plain white boxes. However, tubes in their original boxes are considered to have proof of authenticity and thus sold at a higher
price.
NOS (New Old Stock) - Tubes that are no longer being manufactured, thus Old, but never been used, thus New.
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) - For example, the tubes that came with your new amplifier are the OEM tubes.
OT (Output Transformer)
Utility Tubes - Mediocre sounding preamp tubes with the three basic necessary qualities for the gain stage slots; brightness, low noise, and
high gain. Without these three qualities, the amp will sound too muffles, too noisy, and too thin for a good tone to matter. Not common usage.
Vintage - In guitar terms, this refers to music equipment built in the 50's and 60's. Unfortunately, this has become a catchword used by music
companies to advertise anything as "good". It is worthy to note that the vintage craze had its merits in the 80's. For example, when your only
choice was either a new Fender guitar or an old 50's / 60's Fender guitar that sounded much better. Today, there are numerous manufacturers
producing quality equipment that is on par or better then the old stuff, like Rivera. The truth about the vintage sound is that most guitarists don't
like it.
Vintage Era Tubes - American and Western European tubes generally produced before 1980. See below.
Common Vintage Era Tube Manufacturers

America (US): RCA, GE, Philips / Sylvania, Tung Sol
Britain (UK): Mullard, Brimar, GEC
Holland: Amprex
West Germany (FRG): Telefunken, Siemens
France: Mazda, Visseaux
Defunct Modern Era Tube Manufacturers

East Germany (GDR): RFT
Hungary: Tungsram
China: Sino
Common Modern Era Tube Manufacturers (in production)

Russia: Svetlana, New Sensor (Sovtek / Electro-Harmonix)
Slovak Republic: JJ Electronics (Teslovak / Tesla)
Yugoslavia: Ei (Yugo)
China: Shuguang (Valve Art)
Nation Initials: US (United States), UK (United Kingdom), FRG (Federal Republic of Germany), GDR (German Democratic Republic).
Company Initials: GE (General Electric), GEC (General Electric Company), Ei (Electronic Industries), RCA (Radio Corporation of America), RFT (Radio Funk Technik).
Rivera EQ Guide
:: Introduction :: American Channel :: British Channel ::
Introduction
The function of the EQ is to get the most out of your amp; to get as much of your guitar tone through the band mix without resorting to a
volume war. Though you can set the EQ to have the amp sound similar to a famous so-and-so, this usually will result in a less then satisfactory
tone because of the differences in equipment that made the famous so-and-so's tone "work".
Testing your EQ
Here is a convenient way of testing your EQ settings. Place the amp near your stereo then put in a CD that closely represents the style of
music you play. Even though you might not be able to test run at the same volume level as the band, the EQ settings (Treble, Middle, Bass) will
usually be the same or similar in low and high volume levels. Remember that the amp will take about 5 minutes to initially warm up and 45
minutes to completely settle in. Before then, it'll sound a little more mushed then normal.
American Channel
The following is a neutral setting that is the easiest to begin with. The scooped crystal clean sound of the Fender Blackface or the throaty
deep midsy sound of the Fender Tweed. Start with the Fender Blackface setting. This may sound thin by itself but it cuts through the mix
nicely. The Fender Blackface setting works also well with the less EQ forgiving Vintage (Triode) mode.
Fender Tweed
Channel 2 (American)
Volume Treble Middle Bass Master Focus Presence
4 5 5 2-3 4-6 5 5
Fender Blackface
Channel 2 (American)
Volume Treble Middle Bass Master Focus Presence
4 5 5 5 4-6 5 5
Notch
EQ:
By setting the Treble, Middle (Notch pulled), Bass, Focus, and Presence all to 5, this will give you the fullest and most natural tone. Or in
the case of the Fender Tweed settings, the Bass at 2-3 to compensate for the over abundance of low end. When setting the EQ in clean, less is
better. A far ranging EQ will only take away from the tone. To customize the clean tone, the best thing to do is change the tubes or guitar pick-
ups. A good clean tone is difficult to force by way of the EQ.
If the clean tone is too harshly bright, instead of trying to adjust with the EQ, try lowering the guitar's volume and tone knob. For example,
from 10 / 10 to volume at 9 and tone at 7.
Focus / Presence:
A 5 / 5 setting will have the most natural tone and be a convenient compromise for both channels. For those going for the cranked Fender
sound, set the Focus at 4 and Presence at 6 for a top end bite.
Volume / Master / Boost:

The above settings are for a mellow clean tone. For a hot clean tone, there are two options. The simplest option is to turn down the Vol-
ume (preamp) knob a bit and hit the Boost. This will put a sparkle in the clean tone. The second option is to turn the Master up to 10 and adjust
the overall volume with the Volume knob. This is the better sounding option though it is only good at higher volumes and it will greatly de-
crease the life span of the power tubes.
British Channel
The following is a low gain, Marshall Plexi-esque style tone, which allows the Rivera's natural warm transparency to really shine. A
common mistake by guitarists is to try and find the right distortion by continuously turning up the Volume (preamp) knob by the specious as-
sumption that if a little is good, then a lot must be better.
Marshall Plexi
Channel 1 (British)
Volume Bass Middle Treble Master Focus Presence
3-4 5 4-6 5 4+ 5 5
EQ:
By setting the Treble, Middle, Bass, Focus, and Presence all to 5, this will give you the fullest and most natural tone. The Middle can be adjusted for a slightly
scooped or mids boosted tone. In this low gain setting, a wide ranging EQ will only take away from the tone. Unlike clean, the EQ on the British Channel is more
flexible and straightforward. For example, to get more low end, raise the Bass. To get less high end, lower the Treble. Note, the more distortion that is coming from
the Power Tubes, less the EQ will be effective.
Focus / Presence:
A 5 / 5 setting will have the most natural tone and be a convenient compromise for both channels. For a more deep Marshall sound, set the Focus at 10 and
Presence at 9.
Volume / Master / Boost:

Set the Volume (preamp) right at the point where the amp will distort when playing chords but will be clean when playing single notes. This is the most dyna-
mic vintage distortion sound.
General Rivera Links
Rivera Research & Development (Harmony Central reviews)

13310 Ralston Ave
Sylmar, CA 91342
Phone: (818) 833-7066 / Fax: (818) 833-9656
Email: rivera@rivera.com
Fender Style Guitar Amplifiers

Fender Musical Instruments (Harmony Central reviews)
Allen Amplification (HC) - Blackface clones.
Belov Amplifiers (HC) - Single-ended class A Blackface style amp.
BluesLand Amplification (HC) - Tweed style amps.
Blues Pearl Amplifiers (HC) - Tweed style amps.
Tony Bruno Custom Amplifiers (HC) - Vintage Fender style amps.
Carlson Amplification (HC) - Blackface style amp.
Carr Amplifiers (HC) - Class A Fender style amps.
Clark Amplification (HC) - Tweed clones.
Diaz Amplifiers (HC) - Blackface SRV style amps.
Holland Amplifiers (HC) - Tweed style amps.
JoMama Music (HC) - Fender style amps.
Maven Peal Instruments (HC) - Tweed style amps.
TopHat Amplifiers (HC) - Vintage Fender style amps.
Victoria Amplifier Co. (HC) - Tweed clones.
Wild Amplification (HC) - Tweed clones.
Marshall Style Guitar Amplifiers

Marshall Amplification (Harmony Central reviews)
Aiken Amplification (HC) - Low powered Plexi style amp.
Audio Cage (HC) - Plexi style amps.
BluesLand Amplification (HC) - Plexi style amp.
Tony Bruno Custom Amplifiers (HC) - Vintage Marshall style amps.
Holland Amplifiers (HC) - Vintage Marshall style amps.
Maven Peal Instruments (HC) - Plexi style amp.
TopHat Amplifiers (HC) - Vintage Marshall style amp.
Vox Style Guitar Amplifiers

Vox Amplification (Harmony Central reviews)
Alessandro High-End Products (HC) - Class A Vox style amps.
Dr. Z Amplification (HC) - Vox style amps.
Matchless Amplifiers (HC) - Vox style amps. Out of business.
TopHat Amplifiers (HC) - Class A Vox style amps.
Other Vintage Style Guitar Amplifiers

Dumble Amplifiers (HC) - Out of business.
Fuchs Audio Technology (HC) - Dumble style amps.
K&M Analog Designs (HC) - Dumble style amps.
Hiwatt Amplification (HC) - Now owned by Fernandes Guitars.
Standel Amps (HC)- Now owned by Requisite Audio Engineering.
Modern Guitar Amplifiers

Apollo Amplifiers (HC)
Bogner Amplification (HC) - Westwood Music's website.
Budda Amplification (HC)
Carvin Guitars (HC)
Crate Amplifiers (HC)
Custom Audio Electronics (HC)
Diezel Amplifiers (HC) - Salwender International's website.
Egnater Custom Amplifiers (HC)
Engl Amplifiers (HC)
Guytron (HC)
Hughes & Kettner (HC)
Kendrick Amplifiers (HC)
Laney (HC)
Mesa Boogie (HC)
Peavey Amplifiers (HC)
Rocktron Corporation (HC)
Soldano Custom Amplification (HC)
VHT Amplification (HC)
Solid-State Guitar Amplifiers

Roland Corporation (HC)
Evans Custom Amplifiers (HC)
Polytone Musical Instruments (HC)
Webb Amps (HC)
Amp & Studio Covers

Le Cover Co. - Rivera orders their amp covers from this place. If you need an amp cover, they have all the Rivera measurements.
Modern Guitar Pickups (HC)

Actodyne General Incorporated - "Lace Sensor" humbucking single pickup style pickups.
DiMarzio
EMG - Active pickups.
Joe Barden Pickups - Humbucking single pickup style pickups.
Kinman
Rio Grande Pickups
Seymour Duncan - All types.
Hand-wound Vintage Style Guitar Pickups (HC)

Chandler Musical Instruments
Harmonic Design
Lindy Fralin Pickups
Lollar Custom Guitars
TV Jones - My personal favorite.
Wolftone Pickups
Miscellaneous Info
Aiken Amplification - Check out Randall Aiken's Tech Info section. Everything you want to know about tube amps. What's Class A or AB? What's a solid-state or tube
rectifier?
Guitar Amp Evolution - Read about the evolution of the preamp from the early Fender Tweed to the modern high gain Soldano.
Guitar Notes - Internet link guide for guitarists.
Harmony Central - If you're a guitarist, you should know about this place already.
Harmony Central Guitar Forum FAQ - Great read with lots of info. Though some of it is more one person's opinion then fact. At the bottom of the page, you have to
read "Are you a Shemp?" and "Single Coil Manifesto". The absolute truth.
Jack's Home Page (Stevie Ray Vaughan FAQ) - The FAQ includes information about SRV's gear.
Rivera Modifications
Email: scobro@softhome.net - For more information or if you have technical questions about these modifications, please contact Rivera. If you
just want my opinion, I'm game.
Adjustable Boost Mod

This is the most requested Rivera modification. Two knobs are installed on the back of the amplifier allowing you to control the amount of boost for each
channel. This is particularly helpful for guitarists that use the American Channel boost on the fly, as there is a heavy volume increase.
High / Low Power Switch

Vintage (Triode) / Modern (Pentode) Switch
All Rivera amps can be modded to include these switches.
The High / Low Power Switch will cut the output power by 1/4. The lesser wattage will shorten the range of the top highs and deep lows causing the tone to
be a bit more focused on the midrange. The overall volume drop is similar to turning the Master about a .5 to 1 down.
In normal Modern (Pentode) operations, the power tubes do not amplify even-order harmonics. The only even-order harmonics within the final signal are
those amplified by the preamp tubes. In Vintage (Triode) operations, the power tubes do amplify the even-order harmonics at the cost of halving the watts. The re-
sult is a more accurate reproduction of the original signal that is also a fuller smoother tone. The term Vintage associated with Triode operations is a misnomer as
no major vintage guitar amplifier ran in Triode.
Increase / Decrease Gain

The gain from each individual channel can be increased or decreased. This will affect the preamp section only (Volume knob) and not the power section (Mas-
ter Volume knob). An increase in gain will cause the amp to be slightly louder and a decrease to be slightly softer with equivalent Volume knob settings.
The American Channel's gain can be decreased for higher clean headroom. Though there will be a slight decrease in the preamp volume, the Volume knob can
be turned up farther for a louder clean tone.
The British Channel's gain can be increased for a more modern sound, however it will not reach Mesa Boogie like high gain full saturation distortion. For that,
you will need an amp like the Knucklehead Reverb.
It also can be useful to decrease the gain on the British Channel. By setting the Volume low and the Master high to push the power tubes, the Rivera amp can
obtain the vintage low gain transparent distortion similar to that of the late 60's and early 70's. Setting the Volume knob below 3 will cause the amp to sound flat.
Scoop Switch
The British Channel's Middle EQ knob is modded so that it can be pulled out for a modern style scooped voicing. The normal British Channel's EQ is based on a
Marshall Plexi (that was based on a Fender Tweed). If you're sending your amp to Rivera to have the British Channel's gain increased, think about having this mod
as well. The Scoop Switch was introduced with the Fandango and Knucklehead Reverb.
Rivera Power Tube Guide
Email: scobro@softhome.net - Feel free to email me if you have any questions. If it's about a tube recommendation, be sure to tell me which
Rivera amp and what type of guitar you use.
Update July 3, 2003 - Only minor changes.
Introduction
:: Choosing the Right Power Tubes :: Changing Power Tubes :: Output Transformer ::
Rivera Power Tube Recommendations

:: 6L6 :: 5881 / 6L6WGB :: EL34 :: 6CA7 & KT-77 :: KT-66 :: 6550 & KT-88 ::
Introduction
The Power Tubes have the greatest effect on the amplifier's overall tone. It is the Power Tubes that gives the tube amp the signature tube
sound. The first preamp slot (V1) is the second most important for overall tone.
Choosing the Right Power Tubes

As a generalized rule, match the guitar pickups to the power tubes. For the scooped voiced sound of Fender style single pickups, use the
scooped voiced sound of 6L6 tubes. For the midsy sound of Les Paul Gibson style humbucker pickups, use the midsy sound of EL34 tubes. By
doing this, the power tubes will greater emphasize the sweet spot of the guitar.
One major exception is when style is preferred over function. For example, most Blues and Jazz guitarist with humbucker / P-90 pickups
play through a Fender style 6L6 based amp.
Changing Power Tubes

Whenever you replace the power tubes, you will need to have your amp biased. All tubes slightly differ from one to another, even between
the same brand and type. Unlike the Preamp section which is self-biasing, the Power section needs to be adjusted in order for the Power Tubes
to run in the correct voltage.
Being that there's enough voltage in a guitar amplifier to electrocute you, even when it's unplugged, it's generally recommended that you
get an amp tech to bias the amp for you. If you're a DIY'er with some electronic knowledge, biasing an amp is another way to custom voice
your own tone. Though with a Rivera, there's an inherent compromise between wanting to run the power tubes cool for the American Channel
and hot for the British Channel. See Richard Johnson's "Biasing your Rivera Amp".
A way around having to bias your amp is to buy your power tubes from Rivera. Rivera offers graded power tubes in matched sets from 1-
10. If, for example, your amp came with Svetlana EL34's with a #3 on it, you can order a #3 set of Svetlana EL34's from Rivera and install
them without needing a bias adjustment. The tubes will be already within specs your amp has been bias to. The amplifier itself will also have
some bias drift over time. The only way to get your Rivera to sound the same is to bias the amp to Rivera's specs each time you replace the
power tubes. Note, other companies offer the same type of service but there is no industry standard for grading.
For amps with two power tubes, about 50-watt amp, another short-cut technique is to buy matched quads. Install two of them and have the
amp biased adjusted for them. When these burn out, install the other two without a biased adjustment. By the time the second pair is burned
out, the amp could use a bias adjustment anyway due to natural amp bias drift. Be sure to tell the retailer you're buying the power tubes from
that you are using this technique. They will often pair up the quads for you.
Installing a different type of power tube, like an EL34 to a KT-66, will sometimes require a resistor change for the amp to bias in the cor-
rect voltage range. This is an inexpensive mod that can be done by most amp techs.
Note, when purchasing power tubes for your Rivera, request tightly matched power tubes. Guitar amps actually sound better with slightly
unmatched Power Tubes. However, with amps that have a High / Low Power Switch or Vintage (Triode) / Modern (Pentode) Switch like a
Rivera, badly matched Power Tubes will cause a noticeable hum that is independent of the Volume and Master Volume knobs. Sometimes this
is unavoidable since tubes tend to drift with use.
Output Transformer (OT)

Currently, Rivera has three types of output transformers; 50-watt EL34 OT, 100-watt EL34 OT, and 50-watt 6L6 OT. Rivera is planning
to produce a 100-watt 6L6 OT for a future amp. This does not mean that you have to have an EL34 with an EL34 OT. A set of two 6L6's can be
installed in an amp with a 50-watt EL34 OT and will sound the same as if with a 50-watt 6L6 OT. However, the mismatch will cause a power
inefficiency, producing slightly less watts then with a OT made for the tubes you have installed. Another words, 6L6 tubes with a 6L6 OT will
produce slightly more watts then 6L6 tubes with an EL34 OT.
Power Tube Recommendations

6L6 Tube:
When Fender began producing guitar amplifiers, they based them on an RCA hi-fi design. RCA gave free use of these designs to promote the use of their
tubes, in this case, the 6L6 power tube. The beam tetrode 6L6 has a round scooped voiced uncolored "white" tone that is crystal clear in clean and a Bluesy over-
driven style of distortion when pushed. The American 6L6 makes up a large part of the signature Fender sound. In comparison to the EL34, 6L6 tubes have slightly
less output.
6L6 tubes are best suited for those using mostly or only guitars with single pickups, like a Fender guitar through Fender amp sound. 6L6 tubes and single
pickups are both scooped voiced which compliment each other's sweet spots. Humbucker / P-90 pickups will retain the full-bodied tone in distortion, a common
combination for traditional electric Blues like BB King and Buddy Guy. In clean, Jazz through a Fender style tone, muddiness can be a problem. One solution for this
is higher wattage speakers.
The British Channel will lose much of the signature Marshall grind but it wasn't unusual to use 6L6 or similar tubes in Marshall amps. A notable example is Jimi
Hendrix. Jimi switch out the stock British made Mullard EL34's in his Marshall Plexi with American made Tung Sol 6550's. 6550's sound like 6L6's except much louder
and they tend not to distort when pushed. Jimi did this to have his Marshall better fit the tone of his Fender Stratocaster.
6L6 tubes are also known for high gain distortion. Though the 6L6 is mostly associated with Fender powered American Blues, Country, R&B, etc, it was also
used in the original high gain amps (Mesa Boogie "Mark I" & Soldano "SOL 100"). To solve the problem of extreme muddiness in high gain distortion, the mids were
dropped out. The 6L6 naturally distorts in a scooped voiced fashion.
Best Currently Produced - Svetlana 6L6GC. This 6L6 is a standard favorite by many guitar amp manufacturers and guitarists for its good tone and sturdy reli-
ability.
Alternative - Shuguang (Valve Art, Chinese, Ruby) 6L6GC-M. A good and very inexpensive tube. So far, this tube has not shown the reliability problems of the
earlier version, 6L6GC STR, like thin glass and tube rattle.
All Time Best - Sylvania 6L6GC / Philips 7581A. In the early 1970's, Sylvania specifically built this 6L6GC for Fender. It's open crystal clear sound is a favorite
for Fender Blackface type amps. The commercial 6L6GC version is extremely rare and extremely expensive, however the military version isn't. Currently, the Philips
7581A is still widely available and unfortunately, spiraling quickly up in price. As of yet, relatively affordable for the quality, though unlikely for long.
Not Recommended Notable NOS - RCA Blackplace 6L6GC. These tubes were OEM in 1950's and 1960's Fender amplifiers. Because their historical status, it is
the most famous and sought after NOS 6L6 tube. One reason for its demand is its unique tone that is required in Fender Tweed style amps to sound right. In a
Rivera amp, the RCA 6L6GC will sound harshly ultra bright. Very expensive through still somewhat available.
5881 / 6L6WGB Tube:
The 5881 / 6L6WGB has slightly less output then a 6L6 with an earlier break up. These tubes are a favorite in Fender style amps to distort at a lower volume.
5881 is the military designation and 6L6WGB is the commercial designation.
Currently Produced - Sovtek 5881WXT. Dull tone but extremely sturdy. Fender and Marshall will use this tube as OEM in many of their amps for its ability to
survive retail stores. The Sovtek 5881WXT is not technically a 5881, but for a guitarist, it's close enough.
All Time Best - Tung Sol 5881 / 6L6WGB. Very rare and very expensive.
Alternative NOS - Philips / Sylvania or GE 5881 / 6L6WGB. Still widely available but expensive.
EL34 Tube:
Marshall originally had American 6L6 tubes in their guitar amplifiers back when the JTM45 was essentially a Fender Tweed Bassman clone. After deciding that
importing American tubes were too expensive and that close was good enough, Marshall switched to the domestic 6L6 British equivalent, the GEC KT-66. After find-
ing this too expensive as well and desiring something with more output, they moved over to the British made Mullard EL34 for their "Plexi" amps in the late 1960's.
It is the EL34 that has defined the sound of British Rock.
The pentode EL34 has a midsy crisp sound with a grind crunch distortion when pushed. The EL34 does not have the crystal clean sound or the headroom of
the 6L6. However, because of the higher output, you can run an EL34 clean at a higher volume then a 6L6.
The EL34 is best suited for guitars with humbucking / P-90 pickups, like a Gibson through a Marshall sound. EL34 tubes and humbucking / P-90 pickups both
have a midsy tone that compliments each other's sweet spots. EL34 tubes work also well for those using single pickups, though it will have a less full-bodied tone
then with 6L6 tubes. A notable example of the typical "Les Paul Gibson through an EL34 equipped Marshall" setup is Angus Young from AC/DC.
The American Channel will not enter Fender territory without 6L6 tubes. However, the modern EL34 is a more versatile tube then the 6L6, easily usable with
single pickups and humbucking / P-90 pickups in clean and distortion. EL34 tubes are not known for their clean tone but it can remove some the muddiness in hum-
bucking / P-90 clean tones. Though most Jazz guitarists using a tube amp will use a 6L6 equipped Fender style amp, EL34 tubes can offer more "spacing" between
the chords, making it easier to EQ.
Best Currently Produced - Svetlana EL34. This EL34 is a standard favorite by many guitar amp manufacturers and guitarists for its good tone and sturdy reli-
ability.
First Alternative - Shuguang (Valve Art, Chinese, Ruby) EL34B STR. A very clean sounding EL34. A good choice for those who prefer EL34 tubes yet frequently
play clean.
Second Alternative - Sovtek (Electro Harmonix) EL34EH. This tube is a return to the crisp grind of the Mullard style EL34 and a good choice for those who play
mostly in distortion. However, despite the Mullard comparisons, the consensus is that the EL34EH is tonally slight below or equal to the Svetlana EL34 and Shu-
guang EL34B. Note, the EL34EH has had some reliability issues so I recommended buying this tube from a retailer with an excellent sorting process.
All Time Best - Mullard EL34. Somewhat available yet extremely expensive. Tonally, this is a very different tube then most other EL34 tubes. Nearly all other
EL34 tubes have a cleaner tone and higher clean headroom. This middle-of-the-road characteristic is better suited for modern channel switching amps. However, it
is far from the deep aggressive grind produced by cranked Mullard EL34 tubes.
Notable NOS - Siemens EL34. Very rare and very expensive. This was the first of the cleaner EL34 tubes manufactured and the original OEM Rivera power
tubes.
6CA7 & KT-77 Tube:

The beam tetrode 6CA7 is commonly called the American version of an EL34 due to having the same output. However, the American made 6CA7 is tonally of
the 6L6 family. The American made 6CA7 tubes are extremely rare and extremely expensive.
The beam tetrode GEC KT-77 has the same tone of a GEC KT-66 at the output of an EL34. The GEC KT-77 is extremely rare and extremely expensive.
Only Currently Produced 6CA7 - Sovtek (Electro Harmonix) 6CA7EH. This is the first real beam tetrode 6CA7 made since the original American RCA, GE, and
Philips / Sylvania 6CA7 power tubes. For those who want something that sounds similar to a Svetlana 6L6GC, yet at the output of a Svetlana EL34, try this tube.
This is a new tube and not as frequently used as 6L6 or EL34, therefore, reliability reports from the Internet and from my own sources (hint... you guys) will be
slow in coming.
KT-66 Tube:
The beam tetrode British made GEC KT-66 is historically best known for the short period in the mid to late 1960's when they were OEM in Marshall's before
being switched out in favor of the louder and less expensive Mullard EL34's. The KT-66 has about the same output of a 6L6 and slightly less then an EL34.
The KT-66 is slightly scooped voiced with a thick "milkshake" warm British style tone. Not the crystal clean sound of a 6L6 but a favorite of Fender style amp
users for an alternative to the 6L6 glassy bell-like tones. When pushed, it produces the famous "milkshake" distortion. A notable example is Eric Clapton in Cream
using a Les Paul Gibson through KT-66 equipped Marshall Plexi amp.
In distortion, there is no preference for types of pickups with KT-66 tubes. Both single and humbucker / P-90 pickups will sound equally well. In clean, single
pickups will have a good warm full tone. However, for humbucker / P-90 pickups, do not use this tube for clean. Humbucker / P-90 pickups will sound mushed and
bleary in clean.
Note, all Rivera amp heads and most of the combos can fit larger KT-66, KT-88, and 6550 power tubes. One that cannot is the Rivera combo amp, the Su-
prema. Be sure to contact Rivera if you are unsure of the power tube's fit.
Best Currently Produced - Shuguang (Valve Art, Chinese, Ruby) KT-66. Well received and commonly considered to be tonally very similar to the original.
Alternative - Groove Tubes GT-KT66. This is an exclusive Groove Tubes product made for by JJ Electronics. In comparison to the Shuguang KT-66, this tube is
expensive and of slightly less quality. The lesser quality may simply due to being forced to buy tubes matched and sorted by Groove Tubes where as the Shuguang
KT-66 can be purchased from a retailer with higher standards.
All Time Best - GEC KT-66. Very expensive and surprisingly, only moderately rare.
6550 & KT-88 Tube (high wattage):

The beam tetrode 6550 tubes are tonally similar to the 6L6 with a scooped voiced crystal clean sound. The beam tetrode KT-88 is tonally similar to a KT-66
with a warmer, less crystal clear, sound then a 6550. In a Rivera, four 6550 or KT-88 tubes will produce about 150 to 160 watts. Two 6550 or KT-88 tubes will pro-
duce about 75 to 80 watts.
The most common use of 6550 and KT-88 tubes in Rivera amps are for guitarists that need a louder clean tone and do not require a full-bodied distortion
tone. When pushed, these tubes do not produce the harmonically rich distortion like lower wattage tubes but tend to stay clean and just get louder. With any in-
crease in wattage, the tone will become brighter, deeper lows, and have a lesser emphasis on the mids. The brightness can easily be compensated for by the use of
darker preamp tubes.
In combination with an EVM-12L "Vintage" speaker, the Rivera can by turned into a modern Jazz amp. The distortion is sacrificed, becoming cold and clinical.
However, a small Rivera combo will be capable of producing a quality clean tone loud enough for most small clubs without a PA system.
Two other reasons guitarists use high wattage tubes.
First, guitarists seeking to get a Jimi Hendrix sound out of their Marshall amp use 6550 tubes. Jimi switched out the British made Mullard EL34 tubes for
American made Tung Sol 6550 tubes. He wanted the tone of a 6L6 to better fit his Fender Stratocaster yet as loud as possible. Jimi did turn up his Marshall amps to
10, but much of the distortion was derived from the preamp section or a fuzz pedal. For those not performing in stadium sized venues, a 6L6 is a better alternative.
Second, shredders like to use 6550 tubes in their high gain amps for the tight exactness to play a billion notes a second.
Note, all Rivera amp heads and most of the combos can fit larger KT-66, KT-88, and 6550 power tubes. One that cannot is the Rivera combo amp, the Su-
prema. Be sure to contact Rivera if you are unsure of the power tube's fit.
Best Currently Produced 6550 - Sovtek (Electro Harmonix) 6550EH. The previous versions of this tube were always on par with Svetlana but this improved
version is now the one to get.
First Alternative 6550 - Svetlana 6550C. This 6550 has been a long time favorite of guitar amp manufacturers and guitarists for its good tone and sturdy reli-
ability. Recently, the improved 6550EH has surpassed this tube.
Second Alternative 6550 - Shuguang (Valve Art, Chinese, Ruby) 6550 STR. Considered to have a better overall tone then the Svetlana 6550, however they are
not as consistently rugged and reliable. If you buy these from a retailer with a good sorting process, you should not have a problem.
All Time Best 6550 - Tung Sol 6550. Very expensive though somewhat available.
Notable NOS 6550 - GE 6550A. Moderately expensive and somewhat available.
Best Currently Produced KT-88 - Svetlana KT-88. The Svetlana KT-88 has a warmer sound then the Svetlana 6550 yet both have a very similar tone. Because
of this, the KT-88 is an expensive tube when compared to the significantly lesser expensive Svetlana 6550.
First Alternative KT-88 - Shuguang (Valve Art, Chinese, Ruby) KT-88. The Shuguang is far less expensive then the Svetlana KT-88 with an equally quality tone.
However, unlike the Svetlana version, the Shuguang KT-88 has had some reliability issues. I recommend buying this tube from a retailer with an excellent sorting
process.
Second Alternative KT-88 - Sovtek (Electro Harmonix) KT-88EH. New KT-88, too early to say anything about.
All Time Best KT-88 - GEC KT-88. Extremely rare and extremely expensive.
Rivera Preamp Tube Guide
Email: scobro@softhome.net - Feel free to email me if you have any questions. If it's about a tube recommendation, be sure to tell me which
Rivera amp and what type of guitar you use.
Update July 3, 2003 - Only a few minor changes.

Note, the initial batches of the Shugaung recreations of the Sino Chinese 12AX7A had a few quality issues, including noise. This is the
likely reason Rivera decided to continue using the Sovtek 12AX7WA. Lord Valve at NBS on his 5/11/03 spam catalog has begun offering a
ninth edition "C-9" version, which seem to be of near similar quality to the original Sino Chinese 12AX7A. From another source, I'm told the
"C-9" designation is reference to the tooling that Shugaung took from the Sino factory and that the increase quality is likely just the Shugaung
factory getting better at making this tube. I've placed an emphasis on the Chinese 12AX7A now in my guide. It's a little early to do this cause
Lord Valve is very quick on offering new productions before anyone else. But I still really really don't like the Sovtek 12AX7WA.
Introduction
:: Perfect Preamp Tube :: Chinese Preamp Tubes :: Sovtek Preamp Tubes :: Original Fender & Marshall OEM :: Military & Commercial
Tubes ::
Rivera Preamp Tube Recommendations

:: Preamp Tube Layout :: V1 :: V2 :: V3 :: V4 :: V5 :: Examples ::
Reference
:: Checking for Microphonics (noise) :: Non-Typical Rivera Preamp Tube Layouts :: Preamp Tube types ::
Introduction
Preamp tubes are very easy to experiment with. They're relatively inexpensive and simple to change, as they do not require a bias adjust-
ment like Power Tubes. Check your Rivera manual on the exact instructions on how to replace preamp tubes.
You can automatically assume that Rivera has installed the best current manufactured tubes in your guitar amp. There is still a large stock
of unused out of production preamp tubes, or NOS, which are still affordable. Nearly all guitar amp manufactures are unable to use NOS tubes
because of the lack of consistent availability and price, especially at the bulk quantities needed.
Though NOS preamp tubes can be expensive, they will often last 3 to 4 times longer then those currently being produced. With the variety
and quality of NOS tubes, an investment in a single key tube can customize and noticeably enhance the tone of your guitar amp.
For those who can't afford NOS, which is becoming more and more of us, don't sweat it. As NOS becomes unaffordable, tube manufactur-
ers have in turn been producing some very well made tubes. All is not lost. Most NOS tubes are overpriced. We are at the point where NOS
tubes are nearly depleted. Most NOS tubes are now priced for their rarity more so then their quality.
Perfect Preamp Tube

The ideal preamp tube has four sonic qualities; brightness, low noise, lots of gain, and good tone. Brightness is what keeps your amp
sounding open. If the preamp tubes are too dark, the amp will sound muffled. Gain is part of what gives your amp a full-bodied tone. The use of
too many low-gain preamp tubes will cause your amp to sound thin.
The unusual thing about this, good tone is the least needed requirement. Without the first three, your amp will sound too muffled, too
noisy, or too thin for good tone to matter. A tube with great tone but with some deficiency can be used effectively, as explained below, by plac-
ing them in less sensitive slots and the use of what I call "Utility Tubes".
Utility Tubes currently manufactured are the Chinese 12AX7A, Sovtek 12AX7WA, and Sovtek 12AX7WB. These tubes have everything
you want in a tube (brightness, low noise, lots of gain) except good tone. These three sonic qualities are especially important in the gain stage
slots (V1-V3 or V1-V4 for Rivera's with a high-gain channel).
Chinese Preamp Tubes

The original OEM preamp tubes used in Rivera amps were the Sino Chinese 12AX7A or STR-7025. During its initial production, the Chi-
nese preamp tubes were OEM in the majority of guitar amps, including Fender's and Marshall's. The STR-7025 was the most sought after tube
for high-gain amps for its combination of extreme gain and extreme low noise. The Shuguang factory in China is producing a reproduction of
the Sino Chinse 12AX7A. The initial batches of these reproductions were not of the same quality and could not be used in the bright high-gain
low-noise manner in which the Chinese 12AX7A were known for. The current batch being produced can be used like the original, though un-
fortunately, it is still not quite to the same level of quality.
You will often here guitarists describe these tubes as either the best or worse preamp tubes around. The truth is, they're both. The Chinese
12AX7 series are the best Utility Tubes available. They're bright, very quite, and have lots of gain. Everything you want in a tube except good
tone. Played clean, they're 2-dimentional and smear your tone. Distorted, it's the cause of the "wasp-in-a-jar" tone of the 80's.
It's always a good idea to keep a few Chinese 12AX7A tubes on hand. When experimenting, whenever the amp stops sound right, filtering
in a few Chinese 12AX7A tubes should solve the problem. Also, the Chinese 12AX7A tubes burn out quickly. It's one of the few tubes bright
enough to keep Rivera amps sounding open, including other amps as well, but unfortunately, the brightness is the first to go.
Sovtek Preamp Tubes

Sovtek was once best known for their reputation of shit-in-a-glass tubes. The tone of their preamp tubes, along with Tesla / JJ and Ei, all
have the same Eastern European signature murky midsy tone with varying degrees of quality. The distortion gurgles more then grinds and clean
is on the glossy side. Recently, Sovtek managed to produce some very good preamp tubes. The LP series (12AX7LPS for AC filaments and
12AX7LP for DC filaments) and Electro Harmonix series (12AX7EH).
Most of the Rivera amps run DC filaments preamp except the M/S Series and TBR, which use AC filaments. More info can be found on
Rivera's FAQ page. You will usually only see the 12AX7LPS at guitar stores for reason that most guitar amplifiers have AC filaments. The
12AX7LPS can be placed in a DC filament amp but will be noisier the necessary. Placing a 12AX7LP in an AC filament amp will cause it to
loudly hum.
The LP series have an excellent tone but has two issues. One, they're too dark to be used in more then one or two preamp slots. Second,
they have a feedback problem (high pitched whine). The feedback will only be apparent if placed in the gain-stage slots (V1-V3 or V1-V4 for
Rivera's with a high-gain channel). This tube can be usable in V2 if you're not using high amounts of distortion.
The 12AX7EH, advertised as Electro Harmonix brand, is the first preamp tube since the Chinese preamp tubes to have a good amount of
gain and be extremely quiet. This is especially important in high-gain amps. However, like the LP series, these tube are also too dark to be used
in more then one or two preamp slots. Note, the initial 12AX7EH batch sold was relabeled Sovtek 12AX7LPS tubes.
The Sovtek 12AX7WA and 12AX7WB are Utility Tubes. The difference is that the 12AX7WA is slightly brighter, where as the
12AX7WB has a little more gain.
Original Fender and Marshall OEM Preamp Tubes

In the 50's and 60's, the original Fender preamp tube was the American made RCA 12AX7 or 12AX7A. Of the American NOS tubes,
RCA is the most sought after brand. With the exception of the Phase Inverter and perhaps Reverb slot, the RCA tube is not a recommended
tube for the Rivera. RCA has a great tone but its severe highs will make your Rivera trebly harsh, especially when run in distortion. American
made tubes are the best tubes for an American Fender sound with their scooped voiced "white" tone, but stick with other brands like GE, Phil-
ips / Sylvania, Tung Sol, etc.
In the 60's and 70's, the OEM preamp tube in a Marshall was the British made Mullard ECC83 (European equivalent to a 12AX7). This
tube contributed much to the signature sound of the classic Marshall Plexi's of the late 60's and 70's. The Mullard ECC83 has a midsy warmth,
extended lows, lots of gain, and when run into distortion, will begin to break up only on the edges first, giving you a wonderfully tight and
transparent sound. Like most NOS preamp tubes, Mullard ECC83 or CV4004 (European Military equivalent to a 12AX7) tubes being sold to-
day are too noisy to be used in any gain-stage preamp slots other then V2. Alternatives to the Mullard, though not necessarily less expensive,
are the British made Brimar or Holland made Amprex. A distant alternative is the Hungarian made Tungsram, which is often sold at much
lesser price then a Mullard.
Military and Commercial Tubes

Around the 1980's, both the US and Britain released their stockpile of military tubes. The availability difference this caused resulted in the
military tubes often being less expensive then their commercial counterpart. The military tubes are supposed to be the more rugged of the two.
However, sometimes they're an altogether different tube and sometimes there the same tube, it all depends on the brand and year they were
made. In my recommendations, I often recommend the military equivalent simply because it's less expensive. The tonal difference is minimal.
The only benefit of the commercial version is to be authentically vintage, which is a pointless matter with a Rivera amp.
Preamp Tube Recommendations

Typical Preamp Tube Layout:
V1 - First Gain Stage for both channels
V2 - Second Gain Stage for British Channel
V3 - Final Gain Stage for both channels
V4 - Effects Loop & Reverb
V5 - Phase Inverter
Check here for Non-Typical Preamp Layouts. For example, stereo amps or amps with a high-gain channel.
Note: I use the Sovtek 12AX7LP recommendation below because the majority of guitarists use a Rivera with a DC filament preamp. For
those with the M/S Series or TBR, use the Sovtek 12AX7LPS instead. More info can be found at Rivera's FAQ page.
The preamp amp slots start (V1 to V5) from the side you plug your guitar in.
V1 (1st Gain Stage for both channels)

After the Power Tubes, the gain stage slots (V1-V3 or V1-V4 for Rivera's with a high-gain channel) have the greatest effect on your tone.
The first slot (V1) will define much of your tone for both channels and is also a very noise sensitive slot. Click here for instruction on how to
check a tube for microphonics (noise). Cause guitarists obviously want different things out of their Rivera amps then others, there is no "best"
tube for everyone in this slot, tone wise or price wise.
Economical - Sovtek 12AX7EH. This is a good place to start. The 12AX7EH has an excellent tone and is very quiet. The clean is a bit
murky with an emphasis on the mids. The distortion is smooth and creamy. Because it is dark, you will need to fill much of the other slots with
brighter Utility Tubes. For example, the Chinese 12AX7A or Sovtek 12AX7WB in V2 & V3. The Sovtek 12AX7LP is a similar tube, however
it has a feedback problem (high pitched whine) which makes it usable for only clean and a light amount of distortion.
American NOS - JAN Philips 12AX7WA/7025 or JAN GE 12AX7WA/7025. These tubes are overprices in comparison to current pro-
duced tubes but are the few American made tubes still somewhat available. American made tubes are known for their scooped voicing and
round uncolored "white" tone. The clean has a crystal clear jangle. The distortion has a transparent Bluesy overdriven tone but it will not have
the full-bodied midsy distortion of most European made tubes. Both 12AX7WA tubes are on the low-gain side of a 12AX7. Though they are
not dark tubes, they are too dark to be used in all five of the preamp slots. These tubes are not ultra quiet so it is not recommended to use them
in this slot if you are using high amounts of distortion.
Low Gain American NOS - GE 5751, Philips 5751, Sylvania 5751, etc. A 5751 has 70% gain of a 12AX7. The use of a lower gain tube in
this slot will result in a cleaner, smoother, more transparent sound with an increase in clean headroom. This is especially beneficial to those us-
ing thicker strings or a hollow body guitar where muddiness if often an issue. A 5751 is best used in clean or low to moderates amounts of dis-
tortion. In heavy distortion, the tone will noticeably lack bulk. As of now, 5751 tubes are one of the few types of NOS tubes still affordable to
anyone.
Note: Do not use a tube with a lower gain then a 5751 in this slot. For example, the 12AY7 (44% gain of a 12AX7) was often used in the
first slot of the Fender Tweed amp. In a Rivera, the American Channel will sound fine but the British Channel will sound thin and whinny.
Also, use only 12AX7 or equivalents in the other gain stage slots. Gain is part of what gives the amp a full-bodied tone. For example, the use of
a 5751 on slots V1-V3 will cause both channels to sound thin.
British NOS - Mullard, Brimar, or Amprex ECC83 (European equivalent of a 12AX7A) or CV4004 (European Military equivalent to a
12AX7). These are the best tubes for those looking for the classic vintage British deep grinding distortion. Because of the high-gain and em-
phasis on the mids, the clean will sound aggressive and filmy. These tubes are best used in the classic low-gain distortion, as it does not have
the ideal low noise for high-gain distortion.
Best All-Around NOS - Telefunken ECC83 (European equivalent to a 12AX7). The German made Telefunken ECC83 is considered the
consensus best preamp tube ever made. This tube is a favorite among the pro audio scene and Vox AC30 users. The clean has a smooth full-
bodied tone with a slight emphasis on the mids. The distortion is warm and creamy. The tube is on the low-gain side of a 12AX7. Because of
the high demand and very limited supply of this tube, the Telefunken ECC83 is extremely expensive and overpriced. This is a good tube for
those looking for a more European warm clean then the American crystal clean. There is a debate on the differences between the ribbed-plate
and smooth/flat-plate Telefunken ECC83. However, from my experiences and others, there are no differences when dealing with a guitar amp.
The Mullard M8137 is a similar style tube but equally rare and pricey.
V2 (2nd Gain Stage for the British Channel)

This slot has little effect on the American Channel but it is the second most important for the British Channel. V2 is the least noise sensi-
tive of the gain stage slots, which allows tubes normally not usable in V1 & V3 to be workable here.
Economical - Chinese 12AX7A (or Sovtek 12AX7WB). Utility tubes to keep the amp sounding right.
Alternative Economical - Sovtek 12AX7EH. For those who like a creamy distortion, this is an excellent tube to use. Note, do not use more
then one Sovtek 12AX7EH (or 12AXLP) in the gain slots (V1-V3 or V1-V4 for Rivera amps with a high gain channel) unless a very dark tone
is the purpose.
NOS - Mullard, Brimar, or Amprex ECC83 or CV4004. By placing one of these tubes in V2, the British Channel will take on the deep
grinding distortion without altering the American Channel. This slot is especially good for vintage tubes, which normally do not have the ultra
low-noise requirement for medium to high amounts of distortion. For example, a Mullard CV4004 in V1 or V3 will be noticeably noisy but be
very quiet in V2.
Alternative NOS - RFT or Tunsgram ECC83. The Eastern Germany made RFT and the Hungarian made Tunsgram were the first Mullard
remakes. Though they are not widely available in the NOS scene, when they are available, they are usually sold at half the price of a Mullard.
These tubes are a nice alternative to the usual in-production tubes and they won't break the bank of heavily sought after NOS preamp tubes. Of
course, don't expect these tubes to sound like a real Mullard.
V3 (Final Gain Stage for both channels)

Of the gain stages, this has the least effect on the tone. However, a tube with lots of gain is still needed here to keep a full-bodied tone. The
first and final gain stages are the most sensitive to noise.
Economical - Chinese 12AX7A (or Sovtek 12AX7WB). This is the best place for a Utility Tube where tone is the least factor yet gain and
low noise is the most important factor. The use of an expensive NOS tube will show little benefit.
V4 (Effects Loop & Reverb)
This slot drives the Effects Loop and Reverb. It will have little effect on the tone and noise level.
Economical - Sovtek 12AX7EH or Sovtek 12AX7LP. The smooth colorized tone can give the Reverb and Effects Loop an atmospheric
sound, almost analog tape-esque feel. Do not use this tube if you are already using two 12AX7EH or 12AX7LP tubes. Three of these tubes in
your amp will cause it to sound overly dark and muffled.
Alternative Economical - Chinese 12AX7A. A good tube if the amp is on the dark muffled side, especially if you're already using two
Sovtek 12AX7LP or 12AX7EH elsewhere.
Low Gain American NOS - 5751 (70% gain of a 12AX7) or 12AT7 (60% gain of a 12AX7). A lower gain tube will increase the clarity
while sacrificing some of the full-bodied tone of a 12AX7. A common Fender Reverb Driver is a 12AT7, which will create a crystal clear style
reverb. The price of NOS 5751 and 12AT7 tubes are still very affordable.
Note: A technique used to get more gain out of the Rivera amp is to connect a cable directly from the Effects Loop "out" to the "in" creat-
ing a pseudo extra gain stage. In this case, you should treat the V4 slot like a Final Gain Stage and stay with a low noise high-gain 12AX7.
V5 (Phase Inverter)
The Phase Inverter has the least effect on the tone and noise of any preamp slot.
Economical - Chinese 12AX7A, Sovtek 12AX7EH, or Sovtek 12AX7LP. Common tubes for the Phase Inverter. Use a Chinese 12AX7A
if you're already using two Sovtek 12AX7LP or 12AX7EH elsewhere.
Low Gain American NOS - 5751 (70% gain of a 12AX7) or 12AT7 (60% gain of a 12AX7). The use of lower gain tube can smooth up the
tone by easing off the power tubes. The 12AT7 is a common Fender Phase Inverter for a smoother clean tone. A 5751 is often used in Marshall
amps to smooth up the tone yet not lose too much of the distortion's aggressiveness. The use on an RCA tube here can brighten up the top-end
highs a little without the negative RCA bright harshness when used in other slots.
Examples:
Original Rivera OEM

V1 - Chinese 12AX7A or STR-7025
Current Rivera OEM
V1 - Sovtek 12AX7WB or Chinese 12AX7A
V4 - Sovtek 12AX7LP or Chinese 12AX7A
V5 - Sovtek 12AX7LP or Chinese 12AX7A
Most Economical
V1 - Sovtek 12AX7EH
V2 - Chinese 12AX7A
V3 - Chinese 12AX7A
V4 - Chinese 12AX7A, Sovtek 12AX7EH, or 12AT7 (American)
Recommended
V1 - Sovtek 12AX7EH
V2 - Brimar CV4004
V3 - Chinese 12AX7A
Best All Around

V1 - Telefunken ECC83
V2 - Mullard CV4004
V3 - Brimar CV4004
V4 - Telefunken ECC83*
V5 - RCA 12AT7, RCA 5751, or Mullard CV4024
Best Fender Clean

V1 - 5751 (American)
V2 - Mullard CV4004
V3 - Brimar CV4004
V5 - RCA 12AT7
Best Marshall Crunch

V1 - Brimar CV4004
V2 - Mullard CV4004
V3 - Brimar CV4004
V5 - Mullard CV4004
* The smooth clear sound of a Telefunken ECC83 is an ideal tube for the Effects Loop & Reverb. However, the price of a Telefunken ECC83
makes this a strict ultra luxury for a slot that has little to do with the overall tone. An inexpensive Sovtek 12AX7LP or 12AX7EH will sound
near similar.
Reference
Checking for Microphonics (noise)
Place the preamp tube you wish to check for microphonics in the V2 slot. Unplug the guitar cable from the amp and set your amp to the
following:
Channel 1 (British) Channel 2 (American)
Volume Bass Middle Treble Master Volume Treble Middle Bass Master Focus Presence
10 10 1 10 2-3 1 10 1 10 10 - -
boost boost
These settings will isolate the preamp tube in the V2 slot. With each channel, you can individually check both parts of the tube and see
how much noise it generates. To simulate the vibrations caused when you play your guitar through it, moderately tap around the top of the amp
with your fist or palm of your hand.
Non-Typical Rivera Preamp Tube Layouts

If you're having some difficulties extrapolating recommendations above with the layouts below, email me and I'll see what I can do.
S120 stereo amp

V1 - First Gain Stage
V4 - Effects Loop & Reverb
V5 - Phase Inverter
V6 - Phase Inverter
TBR-M stereo rack amp

V4 - Effects Loop
V5 - Effects Loop
V6 - Phase Inverter
V7 - Phase Inverter
TBR-SL stereo rack amp

V2 - Second Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V3 - Final Gain Stage for American Channel, Third Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V4 - Effects Loop & Final Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V5 - Effects Loop
V6 - Phase Inverter
V7 - Phase Inverter
Bonehead
V2 - Second Gain Stage for British & High Gain Channel
V3 - Final Gain Stage for American & British Channel, Third Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V4 - Effects Loop & Final Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V5 - Phase Inverter
Knucklehead Reverb
V2 - Second Gain Stage for British & High Gain Channel
V3 - Final Gain Stage for American & British Channel, Third Gain Stage for High Gain Channel
V4 - Final Gain Stage for High Gain Channel, Effects Loop, & Reverb
V5 - Phase Inverter
Preamp Tube Types
US Commer- Europe Com- Europe Milita-

US Military = mu (gain)
cial mercial ry
12AX7 7025 ECC83 CV4004 = 100 mu
- - - M8137 = 80 mu
- 5751 - - = 70 mu
12AT7 6201 ECC81 CV4024 = 60 mu

12AY7 6072 - - = 44 mu
12AV7 5965 - - = 41 mu
12AU7 5814* ECC82 CV4003 = 20 mu
*12AU7 US Military = 5814 / 6189 / 5963 / 6680

Rivera Speaker Guide
Introduction
:: Rivera Speakers :: Vintage Fender :: Vintage Marshall :: Open-Back / Closed-Back and Front-Mounted / Rear-Mounted :: AlNiCo vs. Ce-
ramic Magnets :: Speaker Size and Multiple Speakers :: Speaker Wattage ::
How to Choose the Right Speaker
Speaker Profiles
:: Vintage 30 :: G12T-75 :: EVM-12L :: JBL M-121 :: Los Lobottom :: Blue :: Greenback :: Classic Lead ::
Speaker Links
:: Speakers :: Speaker Cabinets ::
Introduction
Rivera Speakers
Rivera custom voices their speakers to the speaker cabinet or combo. If you plan to experiment with speakers, get an amp head instead of a
combo. Beyond the flexibility of being able to use multiple speaker cabinets, the speakers itself can be switched out for a similar type without a
problem. A combo, on the other hand, will not be as musically "spot on" if you switch out the speakers. For more information, contact Rivera.
Note, all speakers will sound stiff at first. With use, they will ease up into a more organic tone.
Vintage Fender
The signature vintage Fender sound is the open-back speaker cabinet with front-mounted American-made Jenson speakers (AlNiCo mag-
nets). Today, Jensen is just a brand name of a company owned by Recoton. Though they do produce a line of Jensen Speaker reissues, most
consider them insufficiently authentic. The current favorite Jensen reproductions are made by WeberVST.
Note, unless you want to recreate the Fender Tweed or Blackface sound, I do not recommend Jensen style speakers. Celestion speakers
will sound better in clean and distortion.
Vintage Marshall
The signature vintage Marshall sound is the closed-back speaker cabinet with rear-mounted British-made Celestion speakers. The first
Marshall's used the Celestion G12 speakers (AlNiCo magnets). These were also used in Vox amps like the notable AC30. Beginning with the
late 60's Plexi amps, Marshall switched to the Celestion Greenback speakers (ceramic magnets). Celestion, of course, is still around and both of
these speakers are available. The G12 is now sold as the Celestion Blue.
Open-Back / Closed-Back and Front-Mounted / Rear-Mounted

The Open-Back speaker cabinet has a clear airy sound where as the Closed-Back speaker cabinet has a deep punchy sound. The Closed-
Back has a more hi-fi sound with deeper tighter lows and top highs. It is also the more efficient speaker, producing more volume at equivalent
amp settings. The Open-Back has more of a mid-range emphasis and a relaxed loose tone.
Front-Mounted speakers have a more open clear tone then Rear-Mounted speakers. Front-Mounted speakers are generally the better
sounding type mounting, especially in clean. However, the distortion tone will benefit from the hollow resonance of Rear-Mounted speakers.
Rear-Mounted speaker require a Closed-Back speaker cabinet.
Home / Pro Audio speaker cabinets are Front-Mounted Closed-Back speaker cabinets.
Note, many speakers and speaker cabinets will require or sound better with a specific front / rear mounting and open / closed backing. The
best choice for the type of backing and mounting sometimes will be the one Rivera made for the amp despite the style of music you play.
AlNiCo (aluminum, nickel, & cobalt) vs. Ceramic Magnets

All notable vintage amps, with the exception of the Marshall Plexi, used AlNiCo speakers. AlNiCo speakers will give your tone a com-
pressed smooth loose feel. It is often describe as having a "chime" tone because of its soft highs and loose lows. Ceramic magnets are more hi-
fi, what goes in is what comes out. This gives the speakers a very tight responsive sound. All speakers available from Rivera use ceramic mag-
nets.
Speaker Size (8", 12", & 15") and Multiple Speakers

Larger the speaker, more and deeper the bass and looser the sound. Smaller the speaker, less and shallower the bass and tighter the sound.
More speakers, more expansive the tone, more and deeper the bass, and a louder overall sound. Using only a single speaker will sound
small and "boxed in". One way recordings create that big deep bassy guitar tone is to use lots and lots of amps and speakers.
Multiple speakers will not sound the same as a single speaker of the same type. For example, two 60-watt Celestion Vintage 30 speakers
will be louder then a single 60-watt Vintage 30, but it will not tonally sound the same. The differences in total wattage of the speakers will
make a difference. A single 75-watt G12T-75 will tonally come closer to two Vintage 30 speakers.
Speaker Wattage
The wattage of a speaker refers to the highest amount of watts it can take before resulting in damage. There is no industry standard, but it's
recommended the total watts of the speakers your plugging into is higher then the wattage of the amplifier. For more information, see How to
Choose the Right Speaker below.
How to Choose the Right Speaker

1) Match the speaker wattage to your guitar string size.
Lower wattage speakers are best used with thin strings. Low wattage speakers are darker and have shallow lows, which causes it to have
an emphasis on the mid-range. When a speaker cannot reproduce the top highs and deep lows being sent into it, the speaker will squish and fo-
cus the sound into a narrower range. The effect is that the tone is thickened. Thin strings naturally produce a thin bright tone. When used
through low wattage speakers, the brittle top highs are rolled off, the bass becomes fuller, and the tone is thickened.
Higher wattage speakers are best used with thick strings. Higher the wattage, more hi-fi the speaker becomes, accurately producing the top
highs and deep lows. Thick strings naturally produce a thick dark tone with deep lows. High wattage speakers are capable of producing the
deep lows and the top highs, keeping the tone open and clear.
Thin strings in a high wattage speaker will sound brittle and thin. The highs become brightly harsh and the lows seem nonexistent. There
is more apparent bass in low wattage speakers because all the deep lows the speaker cannot reproduce is being focused up higher to a range it
can produce. Thick strings in low wattage speakers sound dark and mushed. There is so much deep lows that is being focused up higher that it
dominates the tone.
2) Use the appropriate speaker for your style of clean and distortion.
Generally, higher wattage speaker are better for clean and lower wattage speakers are better for distortion. For example, the Electro-Voice
EVM-12L "Vintage" open clear tone is ideal for clean and the Celestion Vintage 30 creamy tone is ideal for distortion.
Each has an exception. Thin strings (like .009) will sound better in clean with a Vintage 30 then an EVM-12L for reasons pointed out
above. In high gain distortion, a higher wattage speaker like the Celestion G12T-75 becomes the better speaker. Though it is sacrificing the
creamy tone of the Vintage 30, the G12T-75 is capable of producing the deep lows that high gain distortion creates, keeping your tone nice and
tight. Another option is to mix different speakers. A popular setup is to use both Vintage 30 and G12T-75 speakers in the same speaker cabinet.
Speaker Profiles
Celestion Vintage 30 (60 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)
Best used with: Solid-body guitar / .008 to .010 strings / mostly distortion
The Vintage 30 is Celestion's solution for a speaker that has a smooth tone, creams up in distortion, and yet with a bass that remains deep
and tight. This is ideal for those looking for a vintage style clean and distortion tone but do not want to use a vintage recreation with their limi-
tations, like the Celestion Blue. Rivera uses the Vintage 30 speaker in their Rock oriented amps, like the Knucklehead, and vintage oriented
amps, like the Quiana.
Celestion G12T-75 (75 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)

Best used with: Solid-body or hollow-body guitar / .009 to .011 strings / clean and distortion
The G12T-75 is Celestion's do-everything speaker. In comparison to the Vintage 30, the G12T-75 is brighter and has a deeper bass. The
distortion is more scooped and will cream up though not as much. The clean is more open and clear. Rivera uses the G12T-75 as their standard
speaker. (The previous standard Rivera speaker, G12T-85, is no longer being manufactured).
ElectroVoice EVM-12L "Vintage" (200 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)

Best used with: Solid-body or hallow-body guitar / .010+ strings / super clean
The EVM-12L "Vintage" is the most common high watt guitar speaker. Favored by guitarists who prefer or need a super clean tone. The
top highs and deep lows of this speaker keep the tone open and clear. This speaker will not warm up in distortion. A few notable guitarists have
utilized this speaker in distortion, usually in light distortion with thick strings. Others simply for a unique if not ideal tone. Rivera uses the
EVM-12L in the BM100.
Two notes. First, this "Vintage" model is sold only to amp manufacturers and sound better then the newer standard model. If you buy an
EVM-12L from a place other then Rivera, be sure to request the "Vintage" model. For more information, see the Rivera FAQ. Second, the
EVM-12L is a very heavy speaker. If you want to use more than one speaker, I recommended either getting multiple single-speaker speaker
cabinets or using lighter Celestion speakers.
JBL M-121 (300 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)

Best used with: Hallow-body or acoustic guitar / .011+ strings / clean only
This is the most hi-fi of the speakers commonly used for guitar amps. JBL speakers are usually used in acoustic guitar amps where one
doesn't want the speaker to color the tone. Rivera uses JBL speakers in the acoustic / electric Sedona amp. The Sedona is built for an acoustic
guitar that is capable of using an electric guitar. Note, like the EV, this is a very heavy speaker.
Rivera Los Lobottom

SUB 1 (300 watt solid-state power amp, one JBL M-222 12" speaker) - Best used with a 1-12", 2-12", or 4-10" speaker cabinet or combo.
SUB 2 (500 watt solid-state power amp, two JBL M-222 12" speakers) - Best used with a 4-12" speaker cabinet.
Rivera has described the Los Lobottom as a "Bass Boost", but it is more of a "Bass Cleaner".
When a guitar amp amplifies, it produces frequencies below the actual note you're playing. When a speaker, like the Celestion Vintage 30,
is unable to produce these frequencies, they muffle, or fart out these lows. The Los Lobottom splits these deep lows and sends them into a high
watt amp and speaker better capable of handing these frequencies. Your tone becomes open, solid, and expansive.
The effect of the Los Lobottom is very subtle. It is not a slap-in-the-face improvement in tone. The benefits best show in a band situation
where you can use a bassier tone without smushing over the bass guitarist's tone.
Don't be put off by the solid-state power amp running the Los Lobottom. Solid-state has a quick response time to keep the your tone to-
gether in comparison to a tube's noticeable delay. There is no benefit of a tube's soft highs and warm mids. The solid-state amp makes the Los
Lobottom considerably smaller, lighter, and less expensive.
The Los Lobottom works best if you're using lower wattage speakers like the 60-watt Celestion Vintage 30 speakers or 75-watt Celestion
G12T-75. There will be no benefit when used with a high watt speaker like the EV or JBL, as these speakers are capable of producing the deep
lows.
The following are three speakers that are not available from Rivera but are worth noting.
Celestion Blue / G12 (12 watts, AlNiCo magnet, 12" speaker)

The G12 was the original Celestion speaker used in the first Marshall and Vox amps. Now sold as the Celestion Blue, this speaker has a
very smooth and relaxed tone. Though it has richly textured highs and mids, the bass is very shallow and an undefined smear. This is a general
characteristic of AlNiCo speakers. A deep tight bass style speaker requires a ceramic magnet. The Celestion Blue is the best AlNiCo guitar
speaker available. However as with most vintage reproductions, they have their limitations and are only usable for specific vintage tones.
G12M Greenback (25 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)

The G12M Greenback is noted for being used in the late 60's Marshall Plexi amps and the common Rock speaker in the 70's. Unless a gui-
tarist wanted to recreate the Rock tones of the 70's, the Vintage 30 is a better speaker. What some describe as a "woody" tone can also be inter-
preted as a bright brittle tone. The bass is also as shallow and smeared as the G12.
Classic Lead / G12-80 (80 watts, ceramic magnet, 12" speaker)

According to Celestion, this is the closest style speaker to the defunct Rivera Celestion G12T-85. Both have a similar brightness to the
G12T-75 but with a deeper tighter bass. Each has a clear open clean tone and will not cream up that much in distortion. However note that
Rivera opted to use the G12T-75 as a replacement for the G12T-85, not the Classic Lead. The Classic Lead is a good alternative to the heavy
EVM-12L. And for those who are running high gain full-saturation distortion, like the Knucklehead Reverb, this speaker will produce a modern
style scooped distortion with a tight low end.
Note: WeberVST speakers

WeberVST brings two benefits over Celestion speakers. One, they are very accessible to customized speakers with little or no extra fee.
Two, they have the best Jensen recreation. However, unless one specifically is seeking to recreate a Fender Tweed or Blackface tone, Jensen
speakers will sound like lesser speakers. Overall, Celestion speakers will sound better in both clean and distortion. I do not recommend We-
berVST unless you are seeking a style of speaker not available from Celestion.
Speaker Links
Speakers
Celestion (Harmony Central)
Eminence (HC)
EV (ElectroVoice) (HC)
JBL (James Bullough Lansing) (HC)
Jensen - Now owned by the Recoton Corporation. (HC)
WeberVST (Weber Vintage Sound Technology) (HC)
Speaker Cabinets
Daedalus Music (Harmony Central) - Custom made acoustic guitar speaker cabinets. Electric guitar cabs available as well.
Jenkins Sound Shop (HC) - Fender style speaker cabinets.
Raezer's Edge (HC) - Portable Jazz guitar speaker cabinets.
Shawnee Custom Speaker Cabinets (HC) - Custom made speaker cabinets.

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Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page .............................................

Last Updated: December 25, 2003

Two bits of advice

Biasing your Rivera Amp - by Richard Johnson.

EQ Guide - The basics of EQ'ing the Rivera.

Speaker Guide - Description of speaker available from Rivera.

Modifications - Common Rivera mods.

General Rivera Links - More and more stuff.

Current Tube Manufacturers

Online Tube Retail Stores

Fluke Corporation - The best manufacturer of Digital Multimeters.

Power Designs - Manufacturers of Variac.

Guitar Amp Bias Meters

Updated: October 18, 2003

:: Scobro's Home Page :: Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page ::

Let's get this part out of the way right now…

Why Bias an Amp

Make sure the amp is turned off before starting.

Biasing to Rivera's Recommendations

Additional Notes on Biasing

Common Vintage Era Tube Manufacturers

Defunct Modern Era Tube Manufacturers

Common Modern Era Tube Manufacturers (in production)

:: Scobro's Home Page :: Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page ::

:: Introduction :: American Channel :: British Channel ::

Volume Treble Middle Bass Master Focus Presence

Volume Treble Middle Bass Master Focus Presence

Volume / Master / Boost:

Volume Bass Middle Treble Master Focus Presence

Volume / Master / Boost:

Rivera Research & Development (Harmony Central reviews)

Fender Style Guitar Amplifiers

Marshall Style Guitar Amplifiers

Vox Style Guitar Amplifiers

Other Vintage Style Guitar Amplifiers

Modern Guitar Amplifiers

Solid-State Guitar Amplifiers

Amp & Studio Covers

Modern Guitar Pickups (HC)

Hand-wound Vintage Style Guitar Pickups (HC)

Adjustable Boost Mod

High / Low Power Switch

Increase / Decrease Gain

:: Scobro's Home Page :: Scobro's Rivera Amplifier Page ::

Update July 3, 2003 - Only minor changes.

Rivera Power Tube Recommendations

Choosing the Right Power Tubes

Changing Power Tubes

Output Transformer (OT)

Power Tube Recommendations

6CA7 & KT-77 Tube:

6550 & KT-88 Tube (high wattage):

Update July 3, 2003 - Only a few minor changes.

Rivera Preamp Tube Recommendations

Perfect Preamp Tube

Chinese Preamp Tubes

Sovtek Preamp Tubes

Original Fender and Marshall OEM Preamp Tubes

Military and Commercial Tubes