L-l043

SMOKED FISH
Johnie H. Crance*

Interest in various ways to prepare and utilize QUALITY

Production of smoked fish in Texas is inconse- Fish and other meats spoil as a result of decom-
quential compared to some other areas, and very position or breakdown of the flesh by bacteria and
little research in this field has been done in the enzymes. Therefore, the principal considerations
Gulf states. In the U.S., production is centered in handling, processing and storing fish or other
around the Pacific Northwest, the Great Lakes and, foods are reduced bacteria and retardation of bac-
to a lesser extent, in the eastern states and Florida. teria growth and the autolytic action of. enzymes.
During 1960, about 28.5 million pounds of smoked This must be considered from the time fish are
fishery products were produced in the U.S. and harvested until the end product is consumed.
about 8 million pounds were imported.
Smoking was used by prehistoric man to cure After fish die, spoilage bacteria begin to multi-
fish. Today, properly smoked fish is a high quality ply quickly and the autolytic action of enzymes in-
food item. It is considered a delicacy, enjoyed by creases. To repress or retard these deteriorations,
nearly everyone who is privileged to eat it. It is good sanitary practices and proper refrigeration are
one of the many ways that fish can be enjoyed as a necessary through all the processes before, during
food. The gourmet can enjoy its piquant flavor at and following smoking.
many restaurants and delicatessens and the ad-
Freshly caught fish should be washed thor-
venturous chef can test his culinary skill when pre-
oughly in cool, clean water, dressed, washed again
paring it in the home smokehouse.
and then iced or frozen immediately. The initial
Traditionally, only a few species of fish such washing removes most of the mud, debris, slime
as salmon, chub, sturgeon, sablefish and mullet are and surface-growing bacteria from the skin and
used in the U.S. for smoking. Information is lack- helps reduce bacteria invasion into the flesh when
ing on the smoked quality of many species of fish the fish is butchered. Carefully clean each fish to
native to Texas. In Florida, Alabama and some avoid bruising or tearing the flesh or puncturing
other areas, smoked mullet is sold in local markets the intestines. Intestines, gills, kidneys and blood
as a delicacy. Mullet is one of the most abundant decompose quickly and should be removed im-
species along the Texas coast, but only a small mediately to maintain high quality. The quality
number is utilized in the state. Likely, black drum, and freshness of fish cannot be improved but it
red fish, mackerel, catfish and other native species can be maintained under proper conditions.
are also suitable for producing a smoked product.
However, the suitability and marketability of these Fillets, steaks or fish in the round may be
species have not been determined and are awaiting smoked. Fish size and individual preferel).ce will
someone's ingenuity and innovation to do so. determine what cuts are smoked. The smoking
process involves three basic steps: salting, drying
*Former Extension area marine fisheries specialist, Texas A&M
University, Galveston.
and smoking or barbecuing.

23.2

T xas A&M Univ rsity • Agricultural Extension Service • John E. Hutchison, Dir ctor • Coli g& Station
 SMOKING Drying removes excess moisture from the sur-
face of fish and forms a pellicle. The pellicle is a
The primary reason for smoking fish is to
glossy firm "skin" and is important for good qual-
impart a desirable flavor. The salt and heat in-
ity. It gives the fish a desirable appearance, helps
volved with the smoking process provide little
seal in natural juices and aids in the absorption
preservative quality. Smoked fish is highly perish-
of the smoke flavor. If fish are smoked or barbe-
able and must be properly refrigerated or frozen
cued before the pellicle forms, the flesh will erupt,
if it is not consumed soon after the smoking proc-
resulting in an unattractive product.
ess is completed.

Salting or Brining
Smoking
Salt gives flavor and firms the flesh by remov-
ing moisture. Fish may be brined lightly or heav- A variety of equipment is used to smoke fish.
ily, depending on the desired product. The salt Some people merely hang the fish over an open
content of smoked fish must be about 2 to 4 per- fire. This method is similar to that used by the
cent to be generally acceptable to the consumer. cave man.
Heavily brined fish may have a salt concentration
of up to 10 percent. At this concentration some A number of commercial fish dealers in the
temporary preservative action is provided, but the Pacific Northwest use a modified version of a
salt content must be reduced to 2 to 4 percent by smokehouse designed by the Washington State
soaking the fish in cold, running water before it is Department of Fisheries. Some smokehouses are
smoked. equipped with devices that accurately control the
air velocity and temperature, smoke quality and
Fish are brined in clean, sanitized containers
volume and humidity. Smokehouses of simpler
using clean, cold water (38 degrees F. or below)
design but with less quality control features are
and relatively pure salt. The size of the pieces of
more commonly used. Most hardwoods are suit-
fish and the degree of brining desired determine
able for smoking fish. Oak and hickory are com-
the amount of time that the fish remain in the
monly used. Pine and other resinous woods that
brine solution. The weaker the solution the longer
give off acrid flavor should not be used.
the immersion time. Coho salmon steaks and fil-
lets are brined in a salt solution having a salinom- Study applicable health regulations and con-
eter reading of 30 degrees (II ounces of salt per sult health and other regulatory authorities before
gallon of water) for 16 hours. Whole, eviscerated building a smokehouse or producing smoked fish.
Coho salmon are brined in a salt solution having Smokehouse design and sanitary equipment and
a salinometer reading of 25 degrees (9 ounces of practices are important and may be regulated by
salt per gallon of water) for 48 to 72 hours. state or federal agencies.
Mullet are brined by two methods in Florida.
They are soaked in 90 degree salinometer brine The hot smoked process or barbecuing is rec-
(40 ounces of salt per gallon of water) for 2 to 4 ommended for smoked fish. This process gives a
hours, or they are soaked about Y2 hour in 40 smoked flavor and cooks the fish so that no further
degree salinometer brine (15.6 ounces of salt per preparation is required before eating it. Hot
gallon of water). The fish are then washed, smoked fish is cooked at a higher temperature and
dredged in salt, placed in a container for 1 to 3 has a longer shelf life than cold smoked fish.
hours, rinsed briefly in cool, clean, fresh water and
Hot smoked or barbecued mullet are smoked at
dried.
a temperature of about 200 degrees F. for 2 to 4
hours or until the flesh is cooked. The U.S. Food
and Drug Administration has set standards for
Drying
hot smoked chub, a fish commonly smoked and
Fish can be dried in the smokehouse or in a marketed in the Great Lakes region. The internal
cool, well ventilated area. An ideal place for dry- temperature for chub must be at least 160 degrees
ing is a "cool room" equipped with a system for F. for at least 30 minutes during the smoking
circulating refrigerated air. Fans may be used to process.
hasten drying. Maintain a relative humidity be-
low 75 percent. Approximately I to 3 hours are The time period for the entire smoking process
required to dry the fish. The shorter the time the (salting, drying- and smoking-) should be kept to
less the bacteria will multiply. a minimum.
 AFTER SMOKING teria contamination. Do not handle smoked fish
unless it is necessary.
After fish are smoked and cooked, extinguish
the fire and cool the fish quickly while still in the Remember that smoking fish adds flavor but
smokehouse. Then transfer the smoked product very little, if any, preservative qualities or shelf
to a refrigerated area (38 degrees F. or colder) and life. The storage and refrigeration requirements
chill. When chilled to 38 degrees F. or below, in- of smoked fish are the same as for uncooked fresh
dividual pieces are wrapped in wax paper. If it is fish.
to be eaten within 2 or 3 days, it is refrigerated
at 38 degrees F. or below. If it is to be kept longer, Infonnation in this publication is based on
it should be frozen immediately. the work of numerous researchers. A list of ref-
erences pertaining to production of smoked fish
Follow strict sanitary practices while handling follows.
or wrapping smoked fish. This helps avoid bac-

REFERENCES

Anderson, C. L., and R. K. Pedersen. 1951. The Lantz, A. W. 1964. A Practical Method for Brin-
Preservation of Fish by Smoking and Drying. ing and Smoking Fish. Dept. Fisheries of Can-
I n Marine Products of Commerce. Reinhold ada, Trade News 16: 14-17.
Pub. Co.: 394-417.
Lantz, A. W., and M. Vaisey. 1970. Flavor Effects
Berg, lola 1. 1971. Smokehouses and the Smoke of Different ''''oods on Whitefish Smoked in a
Curing of Fish. Washington State Dept. of Kiln with Controlled Temperature, Humidity
Fisheries, Olympia, Washington: 23 pp. anJ Air Velocity. Jour. Fish. Research Board
of Canada 27(7): 1201-1207.
Brawner, Jack and Phillip A'brarns. 1956. How to
Produce and Sell Smoked Florida Mullet. Flor- Seagran, H. L. et ai. 1970. Guidelines for the Pro-
ida State Board of Conservation, Tallahassee, cessing of Hot-Smoked Chub. V.S. Dept. In-
Florida, Educational Series No.8: 16 pp. terior, Fish and ''''ildl. Serv., Bur. Commercial
Fish., Circular 331: 23 pp.
Dougherty, Jack B., and Harry L. Seagran. 1966.
Stansby, ~1aurice E. (Editor). 1963. Industrial
Steps to Effective Sanitation in Smoked-Fish
Fishery Technology. Reinhold Pub. Co.
Plants. V.S. Dept. Interior, Fish and Wildl.
Serv., Bur. Commercial Fish., Circular 259: 12 Waters, Melvin E., and D. J. Bond. 1960. Con-
pp. struction and Operation of an Inexpensive Fish
Smokehouse. U.S. Dept. Interior, Fish and
Dudley, Shearon et ai. 1970. Sportsman's Guide to Wildl. Serv., Bur. Commercial Fish., Fisheries
Handling, Smoking, and Preserving Great Lakes Review 22(8): 8-] 2.
Coho Salmon. V.S. Dept. Interior, Fish and
Wildl. Serv., Bur. Commercial Fish., Circular Weckel, K. G., and Duane Wosje. 1966. Brine
346: 28 pp. Salting of Great Lakes Chub (Lellcichthys hoyi)
for Smoking. Univ. 't\Tisconsin, ColI. Agr., Exp.
Draudt, H. N. 1963. The Meat Smoking Process. Sta. Research Report 24: 12 pp.
Food Technology 17: 85-90.
Articles by the Torry Research Station
Greig, R. A., and H. L. Seagran. 1965. A Rapid P. O. Box 31
:Method for Determining the Salt Concentra- 135 Abbey Road
tion in Fresh and Smoked Chub. V.S. Dept. Aberdeen, Scotland AB9 8DG
Interior, Fish and WildI. Serv., Bur. Commer- 1. Kippers - Torry Advisory Note No. 48
cial Fish., Commercial Fisheries Review 27(12): 2. Recommendations for the Preparation of
18-21. Salmon - Torry Advisory Note No.5.
Jarvis, Norman D. 1945. Salting, Smoking, and ~. Smoked White Fish Recommended Practice for
Other Methods of Curing Fish at Home. V.S. Producers - Torry Advisory Note No.9.
Dept. Interior, Fish and Wildl. Serv., Fisheries 4. Smoked Fish - Recommended Practice for Re-
Leaflet 18: 22 pp. tailers - Torry Advisory Note 14 (Revised).
Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Texas A&M University and the United States Department
of Agriculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914.
3Y2M-3-72 SEA