CHAPTER 7

RIZAL IN SPAIN, FRANCE, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND ITALY

Rizal in Barcelona
Barcelona, the greatest city of Cataluña and Spain’s second largest city was also
the site of the 1992 Olympics where Jose Rizal first stayed. He had unfavorable
impression of this city because he thought it was ugly with dirty little inns and
inhospitable people, but later he changed his bad impression and came to like the city.
He met fellow Filipinos, some were his classmates from the Ateneo. They gave
him a party and in return, he gave them the latest news and gossips in the Philippines. It
was in Barcelona where Rizal wrote a nationalistic essay entitled “Amor Patrio” (Love of
Country), and gave it to his friend, Basilio Moran, the publisher of Diariong Tagalog on
August 20, 1882.
He used his pen name Laong Laan originally written in Spanish and translated by
Marcelo H. del Pilar in Tagalog. In this essay, Rizal urged his countrymen to love their
fatherland, the Philippines. Rizal’s second article in Diariong Tagalog was “Los Viajes”
(Travels) and the last but failed to be published was “Revista de Madrid” (Review of
Madrid).

Rizal in Madrid
From Barcelona, Rizal moved to Madrid, the capital city of Spain. On November 3,
1882, Rizal enrolled in two courses, Medicine and Philosophy and Letters in the
Universidad Central de Madrid (Central University of Madrid). He also studied Painting
and Sculpture in the Academy of Fine Arts and took lessons in French, German, and
English. He attended operas and concerts to improve his knowledge on music. He spent
his money wisely and never on wine and women. His only extravagance was the Spanish
lottery.
Jose Rizal sometimes spent his time visiting the home of Don Pablo Ortiga, a
former liberal-minded Spanish Civil Governor of Manila, where Rizal met his two
daughters, Pilar and Consuelo. It was Consuelo who again awakened the lonely heart of
Rizal. On August 23, 1883, Rizal wrote a poem “A La Señorita” which was dedicated to
Consuelo. With great will power, Rizal did not allow the romance to blossom because he
was still engaged to Leonor Rivera and his friend Eduardo de Lete was deeply in love
with Consuelo.
While in Madrid, Jose Rizal joined the Circulo Hispano Filipino. Upon the request
of the members, he wrote the poem entitled “Me Piden Versos” which he declaimed
during the New Year’s Eve reception of Filipinos in Madrid. Rizal spent his past time
reading books until midnight. He brought books and two of his favorite books were
Uncle Tom’s Cabin and The Wandering Jew.

Rizal in Paris, Capital City of France

During his summer vacation, Rizal went to Paris and stayed there from June 17 to
August 20, 1883. Like all tourists, Rizal was attracted by the beautiful sights of Paris. He
visited important landmarks like the Place de la Concorde, Arch of Triumph, Bois de
Boulogne, the Madelaine Church, and others.
Rizal spent his hours visiting museums, botanical gardens, art galleries, and
hospitals. Prices of food, drinks, theater, laundry, hotels, and transportation were too
high. He was even mistaken as a Japanese.
When Rizal returned to Madrid, he completed his medical course and was
conferred the degree of Licentiate in Medicine by the Universidad Central de Madrid,
but could not be given his diploma because he could not present his thesis. He also
completed his studies and obtained the degree of Licentiate in Philosophy and Letters
and was qualified to become a professor in Humanities in any Spanish university.
After his studies in Spain, he went back to Paris. He was 24 years old and already a
physician. It was in Paris where Rizal worked as an assistant to Dr. Louis de Wecker, a
leading French ophthalmologist. Under his tutelage, he rapidly improved his knowledge
on ophthalmology.

Rizal in Germany
From Paris, on Feb. 1, 1886, Rizal left for Germany. On February 3, 1886, he
arrived in Heidelberg, a historic city in Germany famous for its university and romantic
surroundings. While in Heidelberg, Rizal worked at the University Eye Hospital under the
direction of Dr. Otto Becker, a distinguished German ophthalmologist. During weekends,
Rizal visited the scenic spots including the famous Heidelberg Castle.
 In his mood of homesickness, Rizal wrote on April 22, 1886 a fine poem “A las
Flores de Heidelberg” (To the Flowers of Heidelberg). On July 31, 1886, Rizal wrote his
first letter in German to Prof. Ferdinand Blumentritt in Austria. Blumentritt answered
the letter and sent two books and that was the beginning of a beautiful friendship that
lasted all their lives.
On August 9, 1886, Rizal left Heidelberg and proceeded to Leipzig, and on
November 1 to Berlin. Rizal was enchanted by Berlin because of its scientific
atmosphere and the absence of racial prejudice. In Berlin, Rizal lived a frugal life. He
lived in poverty there because no money arrived from Calamba. He ate only one meal a
day consisted of bread and water. His health broke down due to lack of proper
nourishment. He began to cough and feared he was going to be sick with tuberculosis.

Rizal in Switzerland
From Germany, Rizal crossed the frontier to Switzerland. He stayed in the city of
Laussane with his companion, Dr. Maximo Viola from June 2–3, 1887. They continued
their tour until they reached Berne and later to Geneva, a Swiss city and one of the
beautiful cities in Europe. Aside from visiting tourist spots, Rizal and Viola went boating
on the lake.
Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. In June 23, they parted
ways. Viola returned to Barcelona, while Rizal continued the tour to Italy.

Rizal in Italy
From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and Florence. On
June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the capital city of Italy. On June 29, Rizal visited for the
first time the Vatican. He was impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly that of
St. Peter’s Basilica, the St. Peter’s Square, and even the colorful guards. After a week of
wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines. He had already
written to his father that he was coming home.
 CHAPTER 8
THE FIRST RETURN TO THE PHILIPPINES

First Homecoming
After five years of memorable sojourn in Europe, Rizal returned to the Philippines
in August 1887. Rizal was warned by Paciano and other relatives not to return home, yet
he did not heed their warning. He was determined to return to the Philippines for the
following reasons:
1. To operate on his mother’s eyes;
2. To serve his people who had long been oppressed by Spanish tyrants;
3. To find out for himself how the Noli and his other writings were affecting Filipinos and
Spaniards in the Philippines; And
4. To inquire why Leonor Rivera remained silent.
Rizal’s arrival was like a storm over his novel. One day, Rizal received a letter from
Governor General Emilio Terrero requesting him to go to Malacañan Palace. Rizal went
to Malacañan. He was informed by the Governor General of the charges and explained
that he merely exposed the truth. Rizal’s enemies were powerful. The Dominicans
examined the text of the Noli and found it to be subversive of public order and ordered
the importation, reproduction, and circulation of the book be absolutely prohibited.
Repercussions of the storm over the Noli reached Spain. During the days when the Noli
was the target of a heated controversy, all copies of the Noli were sold out.
What marred Rizal’s happy days in Calamba was the death of his older sister,
Olimpia, and the news circulated by his enemies that he was a German spy. Rizal’s
exposure of the deplorable conditions of tenancy in Calamba and the friars, forced him
to leave his country for the second time in February 1888. He was then a full-grown man
of 27 years of age.
Rizal in Hong Kong
On February 3, 1888, after a short stay of six months in Calamba, Rizal left Manila
for Hong Kong on board the Zafiro. He arrived in Hong Kong in February 8.
In Hong Kong, Rizal stayed at the Victoria Hotel and he was welcomed by the
Filipino residents including Jose Maria Basa. In February 18, Rizal, accompanied by Basa,
boarded the ferry steamer Kiu-Kiang for Macao. During his two-week visit in Hong Kong,
Rizal studied the Chinese life.
On Feb. 22, 1888, Rizal left Hong Kong on board the Oceanic. His destination was
Japan.

Rizal in Japan
Rizal arrived in the Land of Cherry Blossoms on Feb. 28, 1888. He was enchanted
by the natural beauty of Japan, the charming manners of the Japanese people, and the
picturesque shrine. There he met a Japanese girl and fell in love with her. She was Seiko
Usui, whom Rizal affectionately called O-Sei-San.
Rizal first arrived in Yokohama in February 28, and on the next day he went to
Tokyo. There he was invited to live at the Spanish Legation although he was staying at
Tokyo Hotel. Rizal did not know how to speak the Japanese language although he looked
liked a Japanese. To avoid embarrassment, Rizal decided to study the Japanese
language.
O-Sei-San’s beauty and affection almost tempted Rizal to settle down in Japan.
Rizal saw in lovely O-Sei-San the qualities of his ideal woman: beauty, charm, modesty,
kindness, intelligence, and sincerity. O-Sei-San reciprocated his affection. She helped
Rizal in many ways. She was more than a sweetheart, guide, interpreter, and tutor. Rizal
bade farewell to her. The beautiful romance between them came to a sad ending.
Sacrificing his personal happiness, Rizal had to carry his mission of being acquianted
with different people in Europe and resumed his voyage leaving behind O-Sei-San.
Despite his sorrowing heart, Rizal enjoyed the pleasant transpacific voyage to the United
States.
Rizal in the United States
Rizal first saw America on April 28, 1888. His arrival was marred by racial
prejudice. Rizal arrived in San Francisco on board the steamer Belgic. All passengers
were not allowed to land and the ship was placed under quarantine on the grounds that
it came from the Far East where a cholera epidemic was raging. After a week of
quarantine, all first class passengers including Rizal were permitted to land.
On May 4, 1888, Rizal arrived in San Francisco and registered at the Palace Hotel
and stayed for two days. He left for Oakland, then to Sacramento and on May 6, he
arrived in Reno, Nevada. He continued his trip then to Colorado and Nebraska, then
Chicago, Albany and on Sunday of May 13, he reached New York. He visited the scenic
and historic places and on May 16, 1888, he left New York for Liverpool on board the
City of Rome.

Rizal in London
From New York he arrived in London and in Liverpool on May 24, 1888, before
proceeding to London. For a short time, he stayed as a guest of Dr. Antonio Regidor, an
exile and a practicing lawyer. By the end of May, he transferred to a new boarding
house owned by the Beckett family. It was here that Rizal met Gertrude Beckett, a true
blooded English woman. Her case with Rizal was quite different from the others because
it was a one-way affair. She showed sign of being very much in love with our hero. It was
she who carried Rizal’s breakfast to his rooms and his tea in the afternoon. Rizal’s charm
and chivalry might have been interpreted by the English lass as a proposal. It was then
that Rizal made up his mind to leave London before this new development grew serious,
because he respected the love of Gertrude or Gettie as she was called

Rizal Back in Paris

From London Rizal went back to Paris in March 1899, and it was extremely
difficult for a visitor to find living quarters there. For a short period, Rizal lived in the
house of his friend, Valentin Ventura. He transferred residence several times, moving
from one hotel to another.
Although life in Paris was gay, Rizal continued to be very busy. Hours were too
precious for him to waste. In his spare time, Rizal used to dine at the homes of his
friends.
 On Dec. 25, 1889, Christmas Day, although Rizal lived a frugal life, he prepared a
sumptuous Christmas dinner for some of his friends. After a one month stay, Rizal
prepared to go to Brussels in Belgium.

Rizal in Brussels
On January 28, 1890, Rizal left for Brussels, capital of Belgium. He left Paris for two
reasons:
1. the cost of living in Paris was very high; and
2. the gay social life of the city hampered his literary works especially the writing of his
second novel, El Filibusterismo.
Rizal was accompanied by Jose Albert when he moved to Brussels. There Rizal
became busy writing his second novel which was a continuation of the Noli. Aside from
this hectic schedule, Rizal wrote articles for La Solidaridad and letters to his family and
friends.
In Brussels, Rizal received news from Juan Luna and Valentin Ventura that many
Filipinos in Spain were involved in gambling. He wrote to M. H. del Pilar on May 28, 1890
to remind the Filipinos in Madrid not to gamble, but to help work for their fatherland’s
freedom.
While in Brussels, Rizal came to know Suzanne Jacoby or petite Suzanne who was
attracted to him. Like other women, Rizal ignored her, and when he left for Madrid she
cried.

Rizal Back in Madrid

In August 1890, Rizal arrived in Madrid. He tried all legal means to seek justice for
his family and the Calamba tenants but they were all to no avail. On top of his
misfortune, Leonor Rivera, whom he was engaged for eleven years, broke his heart by
saying that her mother was against their relationship?
Because of the disappointment in Madrid, Rizal took a vacation on the French
Basque Coast upon the invitation of the rich Boustead family. He had befriended
Eduardo Boustead when they met in Paris, where the latter was also with his two
charming daughters (Adelina and Nellie). It was here when he had serious romance with
Nellie and finished the last chapter of his second novel, El Filibusterismo. His one month
vacation worked wonders for Rizal. He spent it in scenic beaches and the festive
atmosphere made him forget the bitter memories of Madrid. Rizal, having lost his
beloved Leonor, came to entertain considerable affection for Nellie whom he treated to
be a real Filipina. He had intention to propose marriage to her. Rizal’s marriage proposal
failed because he did not like to give up his Catholic faith; Nellie was a Protestant and
besides, the parents of Nellie, especially her mother, did not like Rizal as a son in law.
Although they could not get married, Rizal and Nellie parted as good friends.
From Madrid, he went back to Brussels where he became busy revising and
polishing the manuscript of El Filibusterismo. He went to Ghent where he searched for a
printer for his novel. At last on Sept. 18, 1891, El Filibusterismo came off the press. Rizal,
a very happy man, sent two copies to Hong Kong one for Basa and the other for Sixto
Lopez. The book was dedicated to the three Filipino priests who were executed in the
Philippines.
After the publication of El Filibusterismo, Rizal left for Hong Kong where he lived
from November 1891 to June 1892. He left Europe because life was unbearable and he
really wanted to see his family and his country.

Rizal Back in Hong Kong

Rizal arrived in Hong Kong on Nov. 20, 1891 and was welcomed by the Filipino
residents, especially his old friend Jose Ma. Basa. While in Hong Kong, Rizal sent a letter
to his family asking permission to return home.
Rizal’s family composed of his father, brother, mother and sisters who arrived late
had a reunion in Christmas of 1891. It was one of the happiest yuletide celebrations in
Rizal’s life. It was in Hong Kong where Rizal practiced his knowledge in ophthalmology,
He joined the clinic of a Portuguese physician Dr. Lorenzo Marquez who became his
friend and admirer. He had many patients and its here where he successfully operated
on his mother’s left eye so she was able to read and write again.
In May 1892, Rizal made up his mind to return to Manila. Relatives and friends of
Rizal opposed his decision to return home. Not even fear of death could deter Rizal from
his decision. On June 19, 1892, he spent his 31st birthday in Hong Kong. He had a
premonition of his death for he wrote two letters, one addressed to his parents,
brother, and friends; and the second letter to the Filipinos. He gave them to his friend
Dr. Marquez for safekeeping and instructed him only to open the letter after his death.
 To earn a living for himself and for his family, Rizal practiced medicine. A
Portuguese physician, who became his friend, helped him to be an ophthalmic surgeon.
In due time, he became a successful medical practitioner. He had many patients
including British, Chinese, Portuguese, and also Americans. Some of his friends who
were in Europe gave him substantial and moral aid in his medical practice in Hong Kong.
Rizal possessed the quality of a great ophthalmic surgeon. Had he devoted his lifetime
to the practice of medicine he would have become one of Asia’s eminent
ophthalmologists.