© Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
The Authors 14 Burkina Faso 127
Getting Started 18 Highlights
Itineraries
128
128

Itineraries 23 Climate & When to Go

History
128
128

29
The Culture 131
Snapshot Religion 132

30
Arts 132
History Environment 133

39
Food & Drink 134
The Culture OUAGADOUGOU 134
AROUND
OUAGADOUGOU 146
The Music of
West Africa 58 THE SOUTHWEST
Bobo-Dioulasso
148
148

Arts & Craftwork 67 Around Bobo-Dioulasso

Banfora
154
155

Peoples of West Africa 73 Around Banfora

Gaoua
157
158

Environment 80 Around Gaoua 158

THE SOUTH & SOUTHEAST 159

Benin 89 Fada N’gourma

Parc National d’Arli
159
159
Highlights 90 Ranch de Nazinga 159
Itineraries 90 Tiébélé 160
Climate & When to Go 90 THE NORTH 160
History 90 Ouahigouya 160
The Culture 92 Dori 162
Religion 93 Around Dori 163
Arts 94 Gorom-Gorom 163
Environment 95 Around Gorom-Gorom 164
Food & Drink 95 BURKINA FASO
DIRECTORY 165
COTONOU 95
TRANSPORT IN BURKINA
AROUND COTONOU 102 FASO 168
THE SOUTH 102
Porto Novo 103 Cameroon 171
Ouidah 106 Highlights 172
Grand Popo 108 Itineraries 172
Lake Ahémè & Around 109 Climate & When to Go 172
Abomey 110 History 174
Dassa Zoumé 113 The Culture 175
THE NORTH 113 Sport 176
Parakou 113 Religion 176
Djougou 115 Arts 177
Natitingou 116 Environment 177
Boukoumbé 117 Food & Drink 178
Parc National de la Pendjari 118 YAOUNDÉ 179
Kandi & Around 119 DOUALA &
Malanville 120 THE SOUTHWEST 184
Parc Regional du W 120 Douala 184
BENIN DIRECTORY 120 Limbe 188
TRANSPORT IN BENIN 124 Around Limbe 191
10 CONTENTS

Mamfe 195 FOGO 244 ATLANTIC COAST

NORTH-WEST PROVINCE 196 São Filipe 244 RESORTS & SEREKUNDA 303
Bamenda 196 SAL 246 WESTERN GAMBIA 313
Around Bamenda 198 Santa Maria 247 South Coast & Inland 313
Ring Road 198 Espargos 248 North Coast & North Bank 317
WEST PROVINCE 201 OTHER ISLANDS 248 CENTRAL & EASTERN
GAMBIA 318
Bafoussam 201 Brava 248 Bintang Bolong 319
Foumban 203 São Nicolau 248 Tendaba 319
NORTH & EXTREME Boa Vista 249
NORTH PROVINCES 205 Kiang West National Park 319
Maio 250 Soma & Mansa Konko 319
N’Gaoundéré 205 CAPE VERDE DIRECTORY 250
Garoua 207 Farafenni 320
TRANSPORT IN CAPE Georgetown
Maroua 208 VERDE 253 (Jangjang-Bureh) 320
Mandara Mountains 211
Parc National de Waza
EAST PROVINCE
213
213
Côte d’Ivoire 255 Gambia River National Park 321
Basse Santa Su 321
Highlights 256 GAMBIA DIRECTORY 322
Garoua-Boulaï 213 TRANSPORT IN GAMBIA 326
Climate & When to Go 256

328
Bertoua 214
History 256
Bélabo 214
The Culture 260
Ghana
Batouri 214 Highlights 329
Religion 262
Yokadouma 215 Itineraries 329
Arts 262
Moloundou 215
Environment 263 Climate & When to Go 329
Réserve de Biosphère
du Dja 215 Food & Drink 264 History 329
Lobéké, Boumba-Bek & Nki 215 ABIDJAN 265 The Culture 333
SOUTH PROVINCE 216 THE EAST COAST 273 Sport 335
Kribi 217 Grand Bassam 273 Religion 335
Around Kribi 219 Assinie 275 Arts 335
Ebolowa 219 THE WEST COAST 275 Environment 337
Campo 219 Tiagba 275 Food & Drink 338
Parc National de Sassandra 275 ACCRA 339
Campo-Ma’an 219 Around Sassandra 276 AROUND ACCRA 353
CAMEROON DIRECTORY 220 San Pédro 277 THE COAST 354
TRANSPORT IN Grand-Béréby 278 Kokrobite 354
CAMEROON 224 Parc National de Taï 278 Gomoa Fetteh & Senya

229
Bereku 356
THE CENTRE 278
Cape Verde Yamoussoukro 279
Winneba 357
Apam 358
Highlights 230 THE NORTH 281
Itineraries 230 Abanze 358
Man 281
Climate & When to Go 230 Anomabu 358
Around Man 282
History 230 Cape Coast 359
Bouaké 283
Kakum National Park 362
The Culture 233 CÔTE D’IVOIRE
Religion 233 DIRECTORY 284 Domama Rock Shrine 363
Arts 234 TRANSPORT IN CÔTE Elmina 363
Environment 234 D’IVOIRE 288 Brenu-Akyinim 364
Food & Drink
SANTIAGO
234
235
The Gambia 291 Shama
Sekondi-Takoradi
365
365
Praia 235 Highlights 292 Busua & Dixcove 368
Assomada 239 Itineraries 292 Princess Town 369
Tarrafal 239 Climate & When to Go 292 Axim 370
SÃO VICENTE 240 History 293 Beyin & Nzulezu 370
Mindelo 240 The Culture 295 Ankasa Nature Reserve 371
Around São Vicente 242 Religion 296 THE EAST 371
SANTO ANTÃO 243 Arts 296 Ada 371
Ribeira Grande 244 Environment 297 Keta 372
Paúl 244 Food & Drink 297 Akosombo 372
Porto Novo 244 BANJUL 298 Ho 373
 CONTENTS 11

Around Ho 375 LOWER GUINEA 431 Environment 468

Hohoe 376 Fria 431 Food & Drink 469
Around Hohoe 377 Bel Air & Sobané 431 MONROVIA 469
THE CENTRE 377 Boké 432 AROUND MONROVIA 474
Kumasi 377 GUINEA DIRECTORY 432 THE COAST 474
Around Kumasi 384 TRANSPORT IN GUINEA 436 Robertsport 474
Boabeng-Fiema Monkey
Sanctuary 385 Guinea-Bissau 439 Buchanan
Greenville
475
475
Yeji 386 Highlights 440 Harper 476
THE NORTH 386 Itineraries 440 THE INTERIOR 476
Tamale 386 Climate & When to Go 440 Tubmanburg 476
Tamale To Hohoe 389 History 440 Gbarnga 476
Larabanga 389 The Culture 443 Ganta 477
Mole National Park 389 Religion 444 Sanniquellie 477
Wa 390 Arts 444 Yekepa 478
Wechiau Community Environment 444 LIBERIA DIRECTORY 478
Hippo Sanctuary 391
Food & Drink 445 TRANSPORT IN LIBERIA 480
Bolgatanga 391
Around Bolgatanga
Gambarga Escarpment
393
393
BISSAU
ARQUIPÉLAGO DOS
445
Mali 482
BIJAGÓS 450 Highlights 483
Navrongo 393 Ilha de Bolama 451 Itineraries 483
Paga 394 Ilha de Bubaque 452 Climate & When to Go 483
GHANA DIRECTORY 394 Orango Islands National History 484
TRANSPORT IN GHANA 399 Park 453 The Culture 486
Guinea 403 João Vieira – Poilão
National Marine Park 453
Religion
Arts
487
488
Highlights 404 Other Islands 454
Environment 490
Itineraries 404 THE NORTHWEST 454
Food & Drink 490
Climate & When to Go 404 Quinhámel 454
BAMAKO 490
History 404 Cacheu 454
AROUND BAMAKO 501
The Culture 407 Parque Natural dos
Tarrafes do Rio Cacheu 454 THE CENTRE 501
Religion 407 Ségou 501
São Domingos 455
Arts 407 Around Ségou 504
Varela 455
Environment 408 Djenné 504
THE NORTHEAST 455
Food & Drink 409 Around Djenné 507
Bafatá 455
CONAKRY 409 Mopti 508
AROUND CONAKRY 417 Gabú 456
Sévaré 512
FOUTA DJALON 418 THE SOUTH 456
Around Sévaré 513
Mamou 418 Saltinho 456
DOGON COUNTRY 513
Dalaba 419 Buba 457
Bandiagara 519
Pita 421 Catió 457
Sanga 520
Doucki 421 Jemberem & the
Cantanhez Forest 457 Bankass 521
Labé 421 Koro 521
GUINEA-BISSAU
Mali-ville 423 DIRECTORY 457 THE NORTH & EAST 521
Koundara 424 TRANSPORT IN Timbuktu (Tombouctou) 521
UPPER GUINEA 424 GUINEA-BISSAU 460 Around Timbuktu 528
Dabola
Faranah
425
425 Liberia 462 Gao
Around Gao
529
533
Kankan 426 Highlights 463 Hombori 533
Siguiri 427 Itineraries 463 Around Hombori 534
FOREST REGION 428 Climate & When to Go 463 THE SOUTH 534
Kissidougou 428 History 463 Sikasso 534
Macenta 428 The Culture 467 Around Sikasso 535
N’zérékoré 429 Sport 468 THE WEST 535
Lola 430 Religion 468 National Parks 535
Bossou 431 Arts 468 Kayes 535
12 CONTENTS

Around Kayes 537 Ayorou 594 Maiduguri 664

Yélimané 537 Filingué 595 Around Maiduguri 664
Diamou 538 THE SOUTH 595 NIGERIA DIRECTORY 665
Kéniéba 538 Dosso 595 TRANSPORT IN NIGERIA 669
MALI DIRECTORY
TRANSPORT IN MALI
538
543
Gaya
Parc Regional du W
596
596 Senegal 673
Mauritania 547 Dogondoutchi
Birni N’Konni
597
597
Itineraries
Climate & When to Go
674
674
Highlights 548 Tahoua 598 History 675
Itineraries 548 Maradi 599 The Culture 677
Climate & When to Go 548 Zinder 601 Religion 679
History 548 Diffa 603 Arts 679
The Culture 551 Nguigmi 604 Environment 681
Religion 552 THE NORTH 604 Food & Drink 682
Arts 552 Agadez 604 DAKAR 683
Environment 552 Aïr Mountains & Ténéré GREATER DAKAR &
Desert 608 CAP VERT PENINSULA 696
Food & Drink 553
Arlit 611 Île de Gorée 696
NOUAKCHOTT 553
THE ATLANTIC COAST 559 NIGER DIRECTORY 611 Île de la Madeleine 697
Nouâdhibou 559 TRANSPORT IN NIGER 616 N’gor & Les Almadies 698

620
Yoff 699
Parc National du
Banc d’Arguin 561 Nigeria Lac Rose 699
THE ADRAR 562 Highlights 621 Rufisque 700
Atâr 562 Itineraries 621 Keur Moussa Monastery 701
Azougui 564 Climate & When to Go 621 Kayar 701
Terjît 565 History 621 PETITE CÔTE 701
Chinguetti 565 The Culture 625 Toubab Dialao 701
Tanouchert 567 Sport 626 Réserve de Bandia 701
Ouadâne 567 Religion 626 Popenguine 702
Around Ouadâne 569 Arts 627 La Somone 703
THE TAGÂNT 569 Environment 628 Saly 703
Tidjikja 569 Food & Drink 628 Mbour 704
Tichit 569 LAGOS 629 Nianing 705
THE SOUTH 569 AROUND LAGOS 637 Joal-Fadiout 705
Rosso 570 THE SOUTH 638 THE SINÉ-SALOUM DELTA 705
The Road to Mali 570 Ibadan 639 Palmarin 705
Oualâta 570 Oshogbo 641 Djifer 706
MAURITANIA DIRECTORY 571 Benin City 642 Ndangane & Mar Lodj 706
TRANSPORT IN Port Harcourt 644 Fimela & Simal 707
MAURITANIA 573 The Niger Delta 646 Foundiougne 707

Niger 577 Umuhaia

Calabar
647
647
Toubakouta
Parc National du Delta du
Saloum
707

708
Highlights 578 Around Calabar 650
Itineraries 578 CENTRAL & NORTHERN
THE CENTRE 650 SENEGAL 708
Climate & When to Go 578 Abuja 650 Thiès 708
History 578 Jos 652 Diourbel 710
The Culture 581 Bauchi 655 Touba 710
Sport 583 Yankari National Park 655 Kaolack 711
Religion 583 Gashaka-Gumti Desert de Lompoul 712
Arts 583 National Park 655 Saint-Louis 712
Environment 583 THE NORTH 656 Around Saint-Louis 717
Food & Drink 584 Kaduna 656 Senegal River Route 718
NIAMEY 584 Zaria 658 EASTERN SENEGAL 720
AROUND NIAMEY 593 Kano 659 Tambacounda 720
NORTH OF NIAMEY 594 Around Kano 663 Parc National du
Tillabéri 594 Sokoto 663 Niokolo-Koba 721
 © Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 13

Bassari Country 723 Kabala 766 Bafilo 796

CASAMANCE 725 Mt Bintumani 767 Kara 796
Ziguinchor 727 SIERRA LEONE Around Kara 798
Basse Casamance 731 DIRECTORY 767 Mt Kabyé & Around 798
Casamance Nord 734 TRANSPORT IN Niamtougou 799
Haute Casamance 737 SIERRA LEONE 770
Tamberma Valley 799
SENEGAL DIRECTORY
TRANSPORT IN SENEGAL
738
742 Togo 772 Parc National de la Kéran
Dapaong
800
800
Sierra Leone 746 Highlights
Itineraries
773
773
TOGO DIRECTORY
TRANSPORT IN TOGO
802
805
Highlights 747 Climate & When to Go 773
Itineraries 747 History 773 West Africa
Climate & When to Go
History
747
747
The Culture
Economy
775
776
Directory 807
The Culture 750 Sport 776
Transport in
Sport
Religion
751
751
Religion
Arts
777
777
West Africa 830
852
Arts 751 Environment 777
Environment 752 Food & Drink 777 Health
Food & Drink 753
FREETOWN
AROUND FREETOWN
753
760
LOMÉ
AROUND LOMÉ
778
786 Language 861
879
THE SOUTH 787
THE SOUTH & EAST 761
Bo 762
Aného 787 Glossary
883
Tiwai Island Wildlife Kpalimé 788
Sanctuary 763 Klouto 791 Behind the Scenes
Atakpamé 791
888
Sulima 763
Bonthe 763 Badou 793 Index
Kenema 764 Parc National de Fazao-
THE NORTH
Makeni
765
765
Malfakassa
THE NORTH
793
794
World Time Zones 902
Outamba-Kilimi
National Park 766
Sokodé
Bassar
794
796 Map Legend 904

Regional Map Contents

Cape
Verde
p231 Mauritania
p549
Mali
p484 Niger
p579
Senegal
p676
The
Gambia Burkina
pp294–5 Faso
Guinea p129
p405 Benin
p91 Nigeria
Guinea-
Bissau Côte p622
Ghana
p442 d'Ivoire p330
p257
Sierra Cameroon
Leone p173
p748 Liberia Togo
p464 p774