Cotton
Cotton
Cotton
Md. Moniruzzaman
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Khulna University of Engineering & Technology
1
Cotton fiber
Cotton is the backbone of the world’s textile
trade. It is seed fiber.
The seed hair of wide variety plants of the
gossypium family is known as cotton
Feature: Low resiliency, Absorbent, natural
cellulose fiber, seed fiber and unicellular fiber.
TNA
Major cotton cultivating countries:
6
Processing chain for cotton
Sowing seeds and raising
seedlings in nursery pots
Transplanted
seedlings
Sprouting stage
Seedling stage
Bud stage
Flowering and boll
forming stage
Boll opening stage (Mature period)
There are four types of species(Botanical ) that
are grown for commercial cotton production:
1. Gossypium Barbadense – Known as extra-long staple cotton. Native to
tropical South America (8% of world production). This species grows as a
small, bushy tree and yields cotton with unusually long, silky fibers. To grow,
it requires full sun and high humidity and rainfall. This species is responsible
for these familiar cotton types; (Peru, Egypt)
Egyptian
Pima
Supima
Suvin
Barakat
Sea Island
Giza 45 (the rarest, longest cotton fiber available in the
world)
2. Gossypium Hirsutum – Native to Central America, west indies, Mexico, the
Caribbean and southern Florida (90% of world production). This strand of cotton
ranges from 22mm - 33mm. This species was specifically developed for the
American market and produces two of the most cultivated varieties of cotton:
- Short Staple American Upland
- Long Staple American Upland
3. Gossypium Arboreum – Tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less than 2%).
This species of cottons produces shorter staple fibers. It is usually found in
products of a lower quality.
American cotton:
This is cultivated in United States and south of North America.
Properties:
Length: Average 1 to 1.25inch.
Diameter: Average 0.021mm.
Color: Good natural color.
Indian variety:
This variety includes Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.
The average staple length ranges from 1/8 inch to 1 inch.
Mainly fibers are coarse and short fiber.
China cotton:
• This is the lowest grade commercial cotton.
• The fiber length lies between 0.5 to 0.7inch.
• It is twist is not highly developed that’s why it is not suitable
for producing better quality yarn.
Classification of cotton according to length
According to their staple length there are three types of cotton fiber,
Cotton Fiber consists of lumen and cell wall. The maturity index is depends upon
the thickness of the cell wall.
Mature Fiber:
It has well developed secondary wall.
It has very small lumen.
The cell wall of the moisture swollen fiber represents 50-80% of the round
cross-section.
Immature fiber:
It has thin Secondary wall
It has very large lumen
The immature fiber is U-shaped in cross-section
The thin walled immature fiber may not twist as they collapse on drying
The cell wall of the moisture swollen fiber represents 30-45% of the round cross-
section
Dead Fiber:
It has one primary cell wall
The bulk of the fiber is on the lumen
They remain undyed in dyeing.
The cell wall of the moisture swollen fiber represents less than 25% of the round
cross-section.
General Characteristics of cotton fiber:
Cotton as a natural cellulosic fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as,
Mechanical picker
Cotton Bale
Cotton Plants Cotton Boll Cotton
Bale
Objects of ginning:
Removes the fiber from the seed.
Remove the neps and wastage in some extents.
Collect the seed and seedless cotton fiber separately.
Separate the cotton fiber from the root position of the seeds.
Types of ginning:
1. Saw ginning
2. Roller ginning
Cotton Ginning Process Ginning Process Flowchart:
1. Saw ginning:
The disc number of saw gin is 10-100 and
production capacity is 100-1000kg/hr.
Procedure of saw gin-
1. The cotton with seed is stored in
hopper feeder by feed table or air flow.
2. Spiked roller throws the cotton with
seed on grid bar.
3. The discs of saw gin permits to entry of
seed free fiber through the hole of bar.
4. The empty path of bars (both sides of
saw teeth) permits to entry the fibers
but not seeds.
5. The separated seeds fall on conveyors.
6. The cotton lints are separated from saw
teeth by proper air flow.
7. The separated cotton lints is
transported by conveyor pipe.
Saw gin
2. Roller ginning:
The main part of roller ginning is spiked roller by which seeds are separated
from fiber by air flow.
a. The saw gin is used mainly for short and a. The roller gin is used for longer tuft of
medium length cotton. fibers.
d. The main functional parts of saw gin are d. The main functional part of roller gin
disc of saw teeth and grid bar. is spiked roller.
e. Ginning is done by pulling fiber with saws e. Ginning is done by gripping and
through ribs. stretching fiber through rollers/blades .
f. Production capacity 1800- 3400 kg/hr f. Production capacity 175- 225 kg/hr
(rotobars)
Faults of Ginning:
Fiber are broken at the middle position so that it becomes
shorter in length.
Crush seed remain with the cotton.
Neps are formed in cotton.
Remaining excessive trash in the cotton.
Remaining fibers with seed.
Organic Cotton:
Organic cotton is generally understood as cotton, from plants not
genetically modified, that is certified to be grown without the use of any
synthetic agricultural chemicals, such as fertilizers or pesticides. Organic
cotton is produced according to the internationally recognized organic
farming standards of the EU regulation 834/2007, the USA National
Organic Program (NOP), the Indian National Program for Organic
Production (NPOP) or the Japanese Agricultural Standard (JAS). Worldwide
production of organic cotton growing at a rate of more than 50% per year.
Organic Cotton
Bi-product of cotton fiber:
Seeds:
Uses: Oils (This oil is best raw material for soap manufacturing.)
Residue: After extraction of oil, the residue is used as food of
animals.
Hulls:
Uses: -Fertilizer.
-Foods for animals.
-Paper
linters:
Uses: -Photographic paper.
-Special bank notes.
-Plastic.
-Acetate and rayon.
Lint & linters:
Lint: The fibers, which are primarily obtained after separating cotton fiber from seeds,
are called lint. Lints are long fibers, which are used for textile application. e.g. yarn,
fabric etc.
Linters: After separating lint, there are some short fibers called linters. Linters are
found after second ginning. It is used as the source of pure cellulose for industry and
for stuffing upholstery and it is used for acetate and rayon.
Convolution
Convolution:
The mature fiber can be recognized by the Under the
microscope, the cotton fiber looks a twisted ribbon or a
collapsed and twisted tube. These twists are called
convolution. Convolution of Egyptian cotton: 230 /cm and of
Indian cotton: 60/cm.
Convolution
Grading Of Cotton Fiber:
Cotton fibers grading is done depending on their physical
characteristics such as length, strength, fineness, maturity,
trash content etc. This classification is called grading of
fiber.
Spotted : Sp
becomes yellowish in nature Because
Tinged : Tg
of continued exposure to weathering :
Yellow Stained YS
and the action of microorganisms. Light Grey : Lt Gy
Grey : Gy
Following are the color groups which
are present in cotton fiber:
Strict Good
Trash Content: : DGM
Middling
Trash is the impurities which are present there in :
Good Middling GM
the cotton fibers. The trash includes materials Strict Middling : SM
In ginning process, we separate the cotton fibers from seed. During this
process there is a chance of formation of entanglements of fibers (neps). Neps
are adversely affecting yarn and fabric appearance as well as quality. Presence
of neps and naps are two important factors to determine the quality of cotton.
Neps are small tangled knots of fiber that are visible as dots. This type of
cotton is known as neppy cotton.
Naps are large clumps or matted masses of fibers that contribute to the
rough appearance. This type of cotton is known as nappy cotton. The quality of
ginning is considered as better if it produces zero or minimum number of neps.
In general, the grading indicates the trash and color of the cotton like LM Tg,
M Lt Gy etc.
1. Cuticle: the outermost layer of cotton is known as the cuticle and is a thin
film of fat, pectin and wax.
2. Primary cell wall: Inside the cuticle the primary wall is composed mainly of
cellulose in which the fibers are arranged in a criss-cross pattern.
3. Secondary cell wall: Under primary wall, secondary wall is composed of
cellulose which constitutes the balk of the fiber.
•The outer most S1 is comparatively thin layer of fibrils oriented vertically
with an angle of 20-35. In this region the fibrils periodically reverse the
direction of the spiral.
•The S2 zone which is situated inside S1, accounts for the bulk of the
cellulose content and in this case, the fibrils are again in the form of helices
with a somewhat lower pitch of 20-30 and which like those S1, are organized
so that there are periodical reversal in the direction of the spiral.
•In very mature fiber the S3 layer can be detected adjacent to the lumen
and it consists of the mineral salt and the proteins.
4. Lumen: The hollow central core of cotton fibers is known as the lumen.
The cross section of the fiber is bean-shaped, swelling almost
round when moisture absorption takes place.
Chemical Structure of Cellulose/cotton Fiber
Cotton is mainly composed of cellulose, cellulose belongs to an important
group of organic compounds known as “Carbohydrates” this group includes
sugar, starch, etc.. They contain Hydrogen, Oxygen and Carbon.
Cellulose content of the raw cotton fiber ranges from 88 to 96 %. Cellulose is a
polymer of ß-D-glucose with a specific configuration shown in figure. The
cellobiose, repeating unit of cellulose, consist of two beta glucose molecules
linked together at the 1:4 carbon atoms. Two such cellobiose molecule can
combined together (with elimination of water) and thus forms a big molecule
structure.
Cellulose
Polymer system of cotton fiber:
Elongation at break: Cotton does not stress easily. It has an elongation at break
of 5-10%.
Moisture regain: Standard moisture regain is 8.5%
Specific gravity: 1.54 %
Coefficient of friction: 0.25 (for raw dry cotton, otherwise strongly changes for
treated and/or wet fiber)
Dielectric constant: 3.9-7.5
Dimensional Stability: Medium
Abrasion Resistance: Better
Chemical properties of cotton fiber:
Effects of acids and alkalis: Dissolved in high concentrated mineral acids
such as HCl, H2SO4 but high resistant to alkalis that’s why NaOH, Na2CO3, are
used for scouring of cotton. Concentrated NaOH is also used for cotton
mercerizing.
Effect of organic solvents: Cotton has high resistance to normal cleaning
solvents. Cotton is dissolved by the copper complexes, such as
cuprammonium hydroxide, cupriethylene diamine and concentrated 70%
H2SO4.
Effect of heat: Cotton has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat. It
begins to turn yellow after several hours at 1200C and decomposes marked
by at 1500C. As a result of oxidation, cotton is severally damaged after few
minutes at 2400C. Cotton burns in air.
Effect of sunlight: There is a gradual loss of strength when cotton is exposed
to sun light and the fiber turn yellow. The degradation of cotton by
oxidation is done when heat is promoted and encouraged. By sun light
much of the damage is caused by UV-light and by the shorten weaves of
visible light.
Effect of insects: Cotton is not attacked by moth grubs or beetles.
Micro-organism: Cotton is attacked by fungi and bacteria.
Dye ability: Direct, Reactive, Sulphur and Vat dye.
Increased strength of cotton fiber for
wetting:
When water molecules penetrate into
the interior of fiber, it lies between the
fibrils and into the amorphous regions
of the fiber polymer where they can
easily form hydrogen bonds with free
cellulose hydroxyl groups and the
water absorption causes the swelling
of the secondary cell was but little
fiber elongation. Although absorbed
water acts as a plasticizer, it also
cements the cellulose chains and fibrils
together by hydrogen bonding .These
are the reasons of increasing the
strength of cotton fiber for wetting.
Genetic modification
Genetically modified (GM) cotton was developed to reduce the heavy reliance
on pesticides. The bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) naturally produces a
chemical harmful to insects. The gene coding for Bt toxin has been inserted into
cotton, causing cotton, called Bt cotton, to produce this natural insecticide in
its tissues. In many regions, the main pests in commercial cotton are
lepidopteran larvae, which are killed by the Bt protein in the cotton they eat.
This eliminates the need to use large amounts of broad-spectrum insecticides
to kill lepidopteran pests. This spares natural insect predators in the farm
ecology and further contributes to noninsecticide pest management.
Identification of cotton fiber: