Alcohol Extraction of DSS
Alcohol Extraction of DSS
Alcohol Extraction of DSS
Procedure:
Two teaspoons of DSS were dissolved in minimum water and 2ml of hydrochloric acid
(azeotropic) were added. The solution was evaporated to dryiness and then extracted with
95% alcohol. The green coloration was obvious at the first solution but also in the alcoholic
solution.
The alcoholic extract was evaporated and a white salt remained. I believe this to be an easy
method for concentrating ormus from DSS.
So, it seems to be a form of calcium chloride with some of its properties seriously altered...
I have no idea why.
What comes in mind is that possible Mg ions prevent the calcium from precipitating as
CaSO4 when sulfuric acid added (but it seems very improbable, I can check it easily soon).
So, if there are any ideas on what this salt could and what test to perform next, you are
welcome.
*evaporated residue is soluble in acetone, gives greenish residue. (KCl, MgCO3, MgOH,
K2CO3 are insoluble but CaCl2 is soluble). It is insoluble in naptha.
Thoughts: When acetone mixed with sulfuric acid the mixture it turns red solution, should be
test it.
What if once you have the red solution add to it irons vitriol or iron red solution
made by dissolving it in (sodium carbonate + ammonia chloride solution)?
Or just iron filings or both antimony and brown/red iron powder.
after doing allot of experiments i found for me the best way to extract DSS is with NaHO or
KHO, i precipitated the white mix of minerals, and after washing one's i backed it all until all
was dry on high fire in a stone pot, crushing it to a fine powder and add the white minerals
to some water and slowly add a dilute solution of hcl drop by drop, this will dissolve the
calcium and magnesium, after some time the solution looks free of magnesium (free of
white mist) but it is not, filter this and dry it agean, now crush this to a fine powder agean
and add it to the water agean, now slowly add some dilute hcl this wil agean dissolve all
free magnesium and calcium, repeat this 5-6x and you will be left with a light brown
precipitate witch is mostly M-state, wash this powder 5-6x and dissolve it with hcl this will
give a green gold chloride "Green lion..?" after this i precipitate it with NaCO3 (sodium
carbonate), this would give needle like pure white crystals,
next experiment is to add some of this crystals to some high content deuterium water, Dew
water collected ad the full moon,
and set it aside ad about 51-52c in a long neck round bottom flask, in the neck i will put
some wettable material to increase surface contact, this will enrich the water with more
deuterium, (frictional distillation)
i found some interesting articles on the ratio of deuterium in water. the it seems to be so
that deuterium and water only whant to exist in that ratio 1 : 5000 molls, and if one would
increase the amount of deuterium in the water, it will try to get the same equilibrium back
of 1 : 5000 this can be done by attracting water or be losing the deuterium in free solution,
this method is used to extract deuterium on a large scale, now this is interesting,
if the one would hermetically seal a flask with some m-state material and some high
contend deuterium water one could fantasize that the deuterium would like to go back to
equilibrium of 1 : 5000, it cant lose its extra light water because of the hermetically sealed
flask so the deuterium has to go some ware, and probable would like to bond with the m-
state, witch gives something like deuterated M-state. "red lion..?"
im not sure on what form of m-state to use a carbonate or the Hydro oxide NaCO3 or NaHO
(sodium hydroxide Naoh), or maybe even a Hydrocarbonate like NaHCO3 on a chemical
stand point i would say i wold use the Hydro oxide version because of the easy swap that
could take place with the Hydrogen and deuterium, but not sure one this, maybe some has
some ideas on this..
second of all, after doing some experiments with sodium carbonate I found it to be the
most awesome stuff there is... when i precipitate DSS with NaCo3 you will have 2
precipitates you can see the differents pretty good. the thing is that the m-state precipitate
is less reactive with HCL than the magnesium, so the most simple way to separate it is by
adding dilute HCL to the precipitate, this will dissolve the magnesium, and you will be left
with m-state.
when adding acid it bounces from a lower ph slowly up words again if the ph is about 3-4
and the bounce time is like 1 min than the stuff you have left is pure m-state, the ph of this
water above the bounced precipitate is about 8-8.5
i collected this precipitate and washed and dryed it, than i added some hcl to the precipitate
to dissolve it all, adding some water to it when all is dissolved, i filter this to get all gunk out
of it,
i am left with a super clear no color liquid, after slowly boiling this off i was left with a hard
crystal (melting point of the powder is at about 160c "this will happen on boildown") this
rocky powder was collected and grind in to a powder, this powder is very white and will
dissolve in water the ungrined crystal has a bit yellow to white color , the strange thing is
that this powder has a ph of about 10 when testing the powder directly, and when added to
distiled water the ph is also about 10, so this is a m-state chlorine salt witch is alkaline.
this is to my knowledge quite strange that a metal chlorine salt is alkaline, but this could me
my lag of knowledge.
when heating this powder on a spoon it melts and decomposes in to a brown to gray powder
with the same ph 10.
this powder is for sure not magnesium nor calcium because magnesium chloride
decomposition temperature, 714 °C (987 K) (on rapid heating: slow heating leads to
decomposition from 300 °C)
..
with love....
alkahest of Salt
well after some more experimentation,
i found that most steps above can be discarded, if you just make a salt solution en add
some sodium bicarbonate to bring the ph to neutral, and than slowly heating it... after some
time the water will become a bit cloudy, now remove the heat source as soon as this
happens,
there will begin to form a reaction... this will go on for some time after words you will have
your fluff.. filter this and redo the heating part for some more fluff,
--------
what happened in the previous post is that i headed it way to quick so the the magnesium
would precipitate out.
now the theory is... the sodium bicarbonate and the salts form a buffer solution this would
break apart the magnesium chloride and calcium chloride to form a magnesium and calcium
bicarbonate this is still a soluble salt with an execs of Co2 in solution, by slowly heating this
solution, it will produce Co2 gas witch bubbles true the solution this will carbonizes the orme
minerals and will precipitate out of solution as a orme carbonate.
to my knowledge... if one would do the urine path, and will do the dry method one would
calcine at one stage in time, (book of Aquarius) now if you calcine something like distiled
urine goop "for a lack of a better word" this will produce Co2 and would carbonize the orme
salts.
or if one would do the salt and dew path it by setting the salt(NaCl) outside on the ground
and let the dew breath in and out of it will give the salt a form Co2 boost, because the dew
is distiled from the earth, and is very pure it will attract minerals out of the atmosphere and
also Co2 this is combined with the dew witch is turn breathing in and out of the salt witch
would precipitate the orme minerals out and wild form a fluff or gooey (becouse of the mix
with the NaCl)
about the carbonate material properties.. it is very resistant to heat, which would correlate
with the heat resisted calcined material that is talked about in the books.
i think what is happening is that because of the heat some of the Co2 is realest from the
solution this will convert the magnesium and calcium bicarbonate in to magnesium and
calcium carbonate witch is not soluble in water and will precipitate out when the solution is
cooling down the Co2 out of the atmosphere is attracted to the solution and will redissolve
the calcium and magnesium carbonate to form a bicarbonate again, because of the low ph
of the solution it is forced to take up Co2 from the atmosphere.
a bicarbonate can be formed by bubbling Co2 gas true a carbonate solution according to
wikipedia.
i tested the precipitate to see if it was calcium, i did this by dissolving the powder in some
HCL water and and added H2SO4 to is no precipitate formed, i heated this solution (until
boiling) to see if it would precipitate but it did not, so i believe it not to be calcium
i also took some of the powder and took it under a microscope, buttyfull crystalline
structures is seen its realy a nice look
bigger picture http://trdunyam.khoai.vn/android/ima...5114968889.jpg
made with a phone true a microscope the quality is not super but
you can see what i mean by Crystals
bigger picture http://trdunyam.khoai.vn/android/ima...9935583343.jpg
Axismundi000
Modern lab centrifuge, would this have use for separation. It is not a traditional
Alchemical approach I admit.
------------ edit-----------
i forgot something imported to add, i dissolved this powder in some HCL and reprecipited it
with NaHO washed it and dryed it in a ceramic pan on high fire, there emerged a brownish
powder. grinned it up and backed it agean an high fire.. the resulting powder would not
dissolve in a HCL solution of ph 3. i also headed some of it up on a spoon on high fire, i very
white powder emerged from the brownish substance,
with love....
Last edited by Wigwam man; 12-20-2013 at 01:51 AM. Reason: link fix
i found that it still content allot of magnesium.. so i did some small experiment and this look
absolutely amazing !!!
i precipitated one half of the solution with NaCO3 (sodium carbonate)and this formed a nice
precipitate but still contained magnesium, the other half i Neutralized with Baking soda
(NaHCO3) and slowly brought up to Ph 8 - 8.5,
this will not precipitate anything at first, but when left for some days beautiful crystals will
form in the jar, on top of the water will flowed a thin crystal layer and on the bottom will
form transparent crystals, after filtration en washing it some times, when dry it will look like
very thin / fine crystalline power, this powder is very shiny and reflective . i will upload a
picture soon, this powder has a strong M-state effect, very subtile, and i do not need allot of
it.. i only take about 2.5mm of the back of a tea spoon...
this trick works quite well as well when i use just DSS and some water and than adding
baking soda i only need to do it 2 or 3 times.. magnesium and calcium should chemically
speaking not precipitate out but it does is some extend, this is probably because the m-
state takes it out when it precipitates, but after doing this 2 - 3 times it will be as clean as
Crystals :P
i also found that the green gold chloride is only green when there is allot of NaCl in
solution...!!
With Love...
According to the same source (Barry Carter website) and David Hudson's patent, gold
ormus prepared from the metal in its 'crude' form, attracts to magnet. If you move it
around in a magnetic field, there comes a saturation point after which it starts to jump away
(repel) from the magnet. I think that natural ormus found in water, air and sea salt is
already in this higher form, that is why it repels from the magnet.
Also, one researcher has reported that running the sea salt water through a magnetic trap
and after that precipitating the ormus results in more volume of ormus product per liter
compared to normal sea water.
http://tesla3.com/free_websites/ormus_gold_karl.html
Back in August 2004 while trying to find a safe alternative to making G-ORME I had
managed to produce 2 samples of large gold clusters that apparently had the capacity
to respond to a strong magnet.
See http://colloidalgoldmachines-central.com/uses/Uses2.html
Ever since I had chanced upon these results I have maintained a container of fine gold
fallout that tends to equal about 10mg for every large batch of colloidal gold as the
result of small thermal difference between the water temperature and the electrode
hardware.
As I did not have safe facilities to store or use the strong acids that are prescribed for
most G-ORME methods I opted to find another way that entails the use of commonly
available chemicals and materials that are generally safe to use in the non-lab
environment.
2. Hydrogen Peroxide - It is very available and quite powerful yet safe enough once
the hazards are understood.
Considering that the first sample was the product of regular experiments into gold
digestion and alternate g-orme production I failed to document the steps that led up to
the results other than the crude form of dried salt crystals prior to heat treating.
Even though I have spent many hours chipping away at this application over the past
year or so I feel it is important to point out that I am nearly clueless as to why this
simple process that I am about to detail for you can cause the effects that are being
demonstrated.
I am certain that we all have theory as to why... as do I myself however the question
still remains. What would cause this specific type of magnetic response to effect mere
gold particulate?
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## Page Two, http://research.colloidalgoldmachines-central.com/Orme-2.htm
This is the first documentation of this process and it is by no means complete in any
way. This is just the beginning of what I feel is a break point that helps to define
future experimentation towards a better understanding and hopefully a more refined
method and product under the heading 'Novel forms of G-ORME using common
household grade chemicals and wares'.
Blue, Black, Purple, Orange, Red, it is all the same as far as this fundamental
experiment has been defined.
I have been using waste batches of colloidal gold for some time for use in these
experiments as the next step makes the quality of the colloidal gold rather moot.
All of that pretty colloidal gold get put in a large container and shocked with 1 of 2
methods.
I opted for the salt water treatment this time around because it tends to make a more
purple fallout than a black fallout showing that the particles of gold are flocking in a
lower density with salt water however:
The original size of the gold particles is not changed simply do to forced
agglomeration. The objective is to end the colloidal state and remove the excess water
after the gold falls to the bottom of the container.
You may want a larger beaker, and by beaker I am saying you should use a pyrex
vessel for this part of the process.
The hydrogen peroxide is going to react with the gold and what is now a very weak
hydrochloric acid ( so I have read ) and even before you heat this mixture it is possible
for a fairly aggressive reaction to take place. Expect 'Heat' and 'Foaming reaction that
may exceed the volume of your container' !
The next part of this step is to add heat to your mixture of Hydrogen Peroxide,
Vinegar, Salt and Gold Fallout. Add heat until you are somewhere close to the boiling
point.
You do this once and most likely do not have to add more heat. It is otherwise
advisable to set your mixture vessel on a surface that is resistant to heat and chemical
damage. For about 2 minutes you should find the mixture foaming and generating its
own heat.
After 2 minutes it should have settled down a bit and the result (easier to see under
bright light) is a nice reddish gold dust on the bottom of your beaker.
I then use a large pyrex glass evaporation disk and dry out the solids.
Make sure you scrape all the salt, gold that dries out together. Do not discard any
apparent salt that accumulates, we need that for our next step.
## Page Three, http://research.colloidalgoldmachines-central.com/Orme-3.htm
The results should be a course purple salt that is rather uneven and granular.
Using a flat smooth surface, utility type razor blade you can chop the granules into
small pieces. It may also be useful to use a glass tube or some type of roller to flatten
the crystals before you chop them to a fine powder.
I also use a mortar and pestle to finish this refine step as it is important I felt to mix
the separated salt from our evaporation and the uneven gold/salt distribution by
grinding the dried product into a fine powder.
The fine powder product may not be a required step. In my first run of this process I
didn't bother to refine my powder and I felt that it may be better to have the best mix
of gold and salt prior to heat treatment to keep the gold particles from melting into
little nodules.
We want to keep the gold particles as small as we can for reasons that may become
clear in the next few steps.
BTW- It doesn't hurt to scan the current purple powder with a strong magnet just to
see if some might stick. I use a very thin piece of wax paper to cover the magnet as it
can be difficult to remove the little particles otherwise.
What I found was that a very small percentage (estimated 8%) of this dried purple
gold/salt stuff could be removed using a magnet. Fancy that!
I use a small platinum crucible however stainless steel ramekins would serve well and
can be purchased in kitchen wares for a reasonable price.
You need to heat this mixture until it is red hot and molten. Make sure it is completely
melted. (you shall most likely require a propane torch for this)
## Page Four, http://research.colloidalgoldmachines-central.com/Orme-4.htm
My second run at this process as described here resulted in a less potent (or apparently
less potent) product.
This could be some slight variation in the process between batch 1 and 2, or it could
be as simple as the finer powder product in run 2 combined with the salt makes the
powder sticky and less responsive to the magnetic test.
The best results I have documented are presented in the videos on 'page 1'.
The wash water issue boils down to this. I have dried samples of the wash water
suspecting that there are much finer particles of gold that are still floating around and
I have the most interesting results.
It may not be obvious at first glance but these are 3 and 4 sides pyramid shapes.
Look closely and you can see that these are in fact pyramids with height and not just
flat squares and triangles. The diatomic nature of the crystals is in stark contrast to
normal NaCl, table salt.
Table salt has an inverted pyramid structure that when fully grown ends up the very
familiar salt crystals that are little cubes. Apparently the gold is interlaced with the
salt in such a way as to effect the crystal lattice structure.
This is what I have to share at this time as I feel it is just the beginning for greater
developments in this field of endeavor.
## Page Five, http://research.colloidalgoldmachines-central.com/Orme-5.htm
(What has intent got to do with it?). I have had the opportunity to test contrasting
energy from people and the results (as scientific as such things can be) I can now
publish for whatever interest it is worth.
I chanced to know someone with very negative emotional states whom held for some
time 1 liter of a concentrated colloidal gold product which was returned to me after a
short time. (not a customer)
What do you do with a bottle of colloidal gold that you know has a tendency to absorb
the energy of the person who comes in contact with it?
I though 'hey' what an excellent chance to see how the energy would effect the gold.
The perfect experiment would be to see if I could reduce this colloidal gold and
process it according to the previous examples in 'orme' (though I realize that the label
may need further clarifications) and see what there is to see.
So I reduced the gold into a fine particulate same as I have in the previous examples.
As you can see. Nothing unusual at this point.
My colloidal gold fallout was much the same as before in the dried form before
annealing.
Here you can see the salt after anneal however as the red glow faded we begin to see
that something is not as it is supposed to be.
Notice how the gold and the salts separated during the anneal?
I should mention now that the pre-annealed sample was dragged with a magnet to
check for a percentage of gold that would react with a magnet and there was
effectively 0% material that responded to the magnet.
The end product after the anneal (when turned into a powder) had absolutely no
magnetic response either.
What I did was photograph the various stages of break down (rather than drop the
entire sample into a liquid after anneal) so that we could investigate the separation of
the various components.
Notice how the salt surrounds the gold on the top and bottom.
I find it interesting that the gold though heavier than the salts would tend to maintain a
density between a lower and upper layer of the hot liquid salt during the anneal.
Is this then the result of negative energy imprinting on the gold prior to this
experiment?
The same process. Two results. Love on the left, Hate on the right. You decide what it
is worth.
All content and photos copyright (c) 2005,2006,2007 Karl Reinhart of The
Shekinahguild.
--
Best Regards,
Khalid
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Best Regards,
Khalid