NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY

Basic Education Department

Module in

DRESSMAKING 10

MODULE 1: Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies Skirts

PART A
Plan Garment Design

Prepared by: ANNA LIZA S. GUZMAN-ANNO

Teacher

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CONTENT: PRODUCE LADIES SKIRTS

CONTENT STANDARDS: The learner demonstrates understanding on the principles

of designing and sewing of ladies skirts.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS: The learner plan, design and sew ladies skirts.

LEARNING COMPETENCIES: Draft and cut pattern for ladies skirts.

1.1 Plan garment design

MODULE 1: PLAN GARMENT DESIGN

At the end of the lesson, the students will be able to:

a. list down the principles and elements of design;
b. define and explain the principles and elements of design; and
c. differentiate the principles and elements of design.

Words to Study
• Dominance – something that stands out in relation to the elements of design
like color, texture and line.
• Equidistant – at equal distance; anything that is located ate equal distance
with the rest.
• Emanate – to flow out from a source or origin; spring from; originate from
• Scale – the relation between the real size of something and its size on a
map; model or diagram.
• Design – the arrangement of elements of art and principles of design.
• Fabrics – material of which a garment is made.
• Style – design created for a product in an effort to appeal to long term
criteria of what is beautiful or socially correct.
• Fashion – a currently accepted style of the moment. Style of dressing that
is prevalent among a group of persons at a given time.

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HOW DO YOU USE THIS MODULES?

Before starting the module, I want you to set aside other tasks
that will disturb you while enjoying the lessons. Read the simple
instructions below to successfully enjoy the objectives of this kit. Have
fun!

1. Follow carefully all the contents and instructions indicated in every

page of this module.
2. Write on your notebook the concepts about the lessons. Writing
enhances learning, that is important to develop and keep in mind.
3. Perform all the provided activities in the module.
4. Analyze conceptually the posttest and apply what you have learned.
5. Enjoy studying!

INTRODUCTION:
The personality of the wearer shows the kind of image he/she projects.
Personalities differ depending on the kind of clothing people wear. Most introvert
persons prefer clothes of simple yet classical cut with pastel or light colors.
Extroverts, on the other hand are creative, artistic, expressive and energetic.
Hence, they prefer clothing that is comfortable, attractive and fashionable. They
can wear all kinds of clothing of varied style, colors and design with confidence.

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No matter who and what we are, we must be well-groomed everyday to

be attractive and to project a pleasing personality. Designs in our clothes add
interest and beauty. Design in fabric refers to a pattern or figure that is printed
on it.

Checkpoint 1. LET’S SEE WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Challenge yourself by answering the given activity to see what you already
know on the following principles of design.

Direction: MATCHING TYPE. Match Column A with Column B. Write the letter of your
answer on the space provided before each number.

Column A Column B

1. Used as tools in judging the validity a. Balance

of a design.
2. The equal distribution of weight from b. Design
a central point.
3. One half of the design is the equal mirror c. Emphasis
image of the other side.
4. The objects on both sides are equal in d. Formal balance
weight but not identical.
5. A major part of the design emanates e. Informal balance
from a central point.
6. It is concerned with the pleasing relationship f. Principles of design
of areas.
7. A point of interest which is concentrated on g. Practicality and function
one part of the garment.
8. A pleasing sense of organized movement h. Proportion
which renders continuity of design.
9. Achieved when the fundamental elements i. Radial balance
express a single theme.
10. Two other considerations in choosing clothes j. Rhythm
outside of the design elements and principles.

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Principles of Design

The principles of design are often used as a tool to judge the validity of any work
of art including clothing designs. These are considered as value judgment because of
the subjective evaluations that are determined by and are expressions of cultural ideas
of this period. Each principle has a specific role in creating an aesthetically pleasing
garment or ensemble.

1. Balance
It refers to the equal distribution of weight (actual/visual) form a central point or
area. It is a state of equilibrium. The purpose is to bring into being a satisfying
relationship of all design parts. When the elements are pleasing, harmony is achieved.

Kinds of Balance

a. Formal/Symmetrical Balance- it occurs when identical objects are

equidistant from a center (real/imaginary) and the objects appear to equalize
each other. One half of the design is the exact mirror image of the other half.
In garments, formal balance may emphasize body irregularities. The equal
distribution of design parts from a center (real/imaginary) gives the eyes of
the observer “benchmarks” with which to judge or compare the body
conformation.
In creating an outfit using formal balance is easy, it is safe but may not
be very exciting. If a design appears too stable, or too predictable, it may
come across as boring or tiresome.

b. Informal/Asymmetrical Balance- It occurs when objects are arranged on

the either side of a center real or imaginary are equal (in weight/mass/) but
not identical. It is more a matter of visual impact rather than exact physical
weight distribution. It can be used to correct the appearance of body
irregularities. The eyes of the observer are not given exact duplicates with
which to compare one side of the body with the other.

The use of informal balance gives the designer more freedom of

expression than formal balance. It is more difficult to use because of the many
variations that are possible. When executed properly, informal balance is
intriguing because it has element of surprise.

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c. Radial Balance- It occurs when the major part of the design emanates from
a central point. The central point is the focal point. Pleats, seams, gathers,
darts, or motifs radiate from the focal point creating a sunburst effect. It is
found frequently in necklines where the neck or head is used as a focal
point. It is used in evening gowns to achieve a body clinging effect on the
bodice area.

Formal Balance Informal Balance Radial Balance

2. Proportion- it is the pleasing

relationship of areas. It is the design
principle that in concerned with the
relationship of the size of the parts to the
whole and to each other. It is sometimes
referred to as scale. It includes the
relationship of height, weight, depth and
the surrounding space of each design.

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3. Emphasis
It is dominance or concentration of interest in
one area of a design that prevails as center of
attention and is more eye arresting than any other
part. All areas maybe interesting, but not all areas
should have equal strength of interest. This implies
the use of subordination in other parts so that some
areas maybe emphasized. The face must be given
more emphasis. This is the part of the person that is
most unique and individualistic.
This could be achieved by color and texture
contrasts, necklines, jewelry, scarves, hairstyle and
make-up. Only one area must be the most important
or dominant, and all other ornamentation as
subordinate to it.
The following are some of the many ways to
achieve emphasis:
a. Repetition or concentration
b. Unusual lines or shapes, textures
c. Decoration on the contrasting background
d. Contrast or opposition
e. Progression

4. Rhythm

It is “a pleasing sense of organized movement that gives continuity to a design.”

It provides a transition from one unit to another that leads the eyes in a fluid
movement throughout the design. Without rhythm, the design may appear spotty or
disconnected. Rhythm results from a regular repeat or a gradual change.

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5. Unity
It is also called harmony. It is
achieved when the fundamental elements,
line, shape, color and texture have been
used to express a single concept or theme.
Unity is created when all parts of the design
are related, consistent and orderly. When a
design has unity, it gives an overall
impression that attracts and holds the
attention of the observer.

Checkpoint 2. Arrange the jumbled letters.

Direction: Rearrange the letters in the box to form the word that describe
the statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook.
1. It is the relationship of all parts of a design to each other and the whole
garment.
R A M O N Y H

2. Ana’s dress has two flower designs on both sides of her dress with the
same size, shape and color. What kind of balance is it?
M M Y E I S T R C L A

3. If there is a smooth flow of the elements of design in a garment, what

principle of design is in it?
H R H T M Y

4. It is the blending of all components of design.

R O P T I P O O N R

5. What principle of design is being emphasized in this

picture?
P H E S M A S I

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Style and Choice

The type of figure you have, its proportions and characteristics, should be given
due consideration when choosing your own garment designs. Determine which are
good and bad features and look for a design that enhances the good features and
camouflages the body irregularities.
Disguising faults naturally gives emphasis to the better points of figure. Selecting
a style which you find attractive but does not suit you is a mistake that should be
avoided.
It is important to consider the practicality of the style and the function for which
the garment is intended for. Other considerations include color, texture of the fabric,
line arrangement and shape.
Below are pointers that you can use as guide in personality styling. Go over
these pointers and determine carefully which figure type you belong to and use as basis
in choosing clothes.

Figure What to wear What not to wear

Tall and Angular Figure
1. Separates of 1. Tight fitting
contrasting colors garments
2. Double breasted 2. Clingy fabrics
coats and jackets 3. Outfits in one color
3. Fabric with bright
and bold patterns
4. Dresses that fall
from the yoke lines
5. Well-tailored trouser

Short and Slim Figure

1. Clothes with style 1. Bulky fabrics
lines taking the 2. Large prints
attention from the 3. Large tight belts
waistline. 4. Part-colored outfits
2. Skirts pleated into
the waist
3. Soft color and one-
color outfits
4. Small printed
patterns

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Tall and Plump Figure

1. Simple styles without 1. Clothes that have
fussy frills intricate style lines
2. Interesting collar 2. Sleeves with pleats
and neckline or gathers at sleeve
3. Separates that head
bypass the waistline 3. Fabrics that cling or
4. Matt surfaced fabrics have shiny surface
4. Bold all-over pattern
5. Pale colors
Short and Plump Figure
1. Simple styles with 1. Anything tight or
vertical tucks or with waistline
seams 2. Frills
2. Straight dresses with 3. Separates that
a narrow center contrast too much in
3. “V” neck lines color
4. Fabrics with vertical 4. Fabrics which are
stripes or small all- either bulky or with
over prints large bright patterns
5. Trousers
Figure with a Large Bust
1. “V’ neck lines 1. High neck lines
2. One-piece dress or 2. Empire line dress
with hip line interest 3. Frills on the bodice
3. Separates with a 4. Tight belts and
dark top and light tightly fitting waist
skirt 5. Short sleeves

Figure with a Large Hips

1. Styles that hang 1. Trousers
from the shoulder or 2. Hipsters skirts
a chest yoke line 3. Skirt or full-
2. Interesting neck line bottomed sleeves
detail 4. Tight belts at waist
3. Separates with a or hip level
bright top and a
dark-colored skirt

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Activity 1: Collage making.

Direction: Make a collage of different

pictures of garments wherein principles of design
were applied. Indicate what principles of design
are there. Do it together with your sister/brother.

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

Elements of design are the basic units of a visual image; they include form,
shape, space, line, color and texture.

1. Form- It is a three-dimensional object. An example is the human body. The

body can be viewed from different directions or angles, revealing the contours of
the form.

2. Shape- It refers to the outside dimensions of the contour of an object. When

the silhouette of the body is observed, the shape of the body is seen. Shape
encloses space. The shape of the body and the lines in a garment create an
overall form that defines its silhouette.

• Three Basic Dress Silhouettes (women)

▪ Straight/tubular- (a narrow skirt) dominated fashion since 1900.

▪ Bell Silhouette- (full skirt) it reveals feminine curves. It comes and goes in
fashion but remains popular in classics such as the skirt maker dress or
blouse and gathered skirt combination.

▪ Bustle/back-fullness- it has a limited appeal but is found frequently in

traditional wedding gown styles.

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3. Space- It is the background area found between shapes. Space divisions are an
important part of design. If the space is too crowded, the eye is distracted or
fatigued. The human eye seems to need space for visual relief.

4. Line- It indicates the dimensions of length and width. The edges of a line define
and create shape. Lines combine to enclose spaces. Lines create shape and form
and imply direction. It creates visual impressions.

Two kinds of lines

• Straight line- consists of three directions: vertical, horizontal and diagonal.

Vertical Horizontal Diagonal

Add height or Generally, add It assumes the
length to the width or breadth characteristic of the
body and make and make the body vertical and
it appears looks shorter. horizontal lines as the
narrower. It carries the eyes degree of slant
This is the across the body. approaches its
favored line extreme.
direction of The degree of slant
those who wish determines the
to appear taller illusion created.
and narrower. It If the slant is almost
leads the eye up that of vertical line,
and down the it adds height to the
body. body and width if
the slant is almost
that of horizontal
line.

A zigzag line is a series of connected diagonal lines. It forces the eyes

to shift direction abruptly and repeatedly in an erratic and jerky movement. This
is common in fabric designs because of the eye activity; a zigzag line tends to
increase the apparent mass or size of the area it covers.

• Curved line- it takes four directions; extreme, approaching a circle, gentle or

subtle or almost straight.
Curve lines generally follow the contour of the body and are flattering.
When curved lines exaggerate to a full design, these become very active and

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may easily be overdone in a design. Restrained curves are graceful, flowing and
gentle. A gradual transition in the change of direction of curved lines adds a
pleasing effect on the design.

5. Color- Color originates from a light source, that is either view directly or as
reflected light. Daylight or white light contains light waves for all colors. There is
no color without light! The absence of light is complete darkness or black.
The mixture of all visible light is white light. White light is made up of all
the colors in the rainbow. Water droplets in the air act like a prism does when
light passes through. It organizes random color light waves into the order of
their wave length. We see that organized pattern as a rainbow. These colors are
always in the same order and are called the Color Spectrum. When organized in
order around a circle; the color spectrum is called a Color Wheel.

Primary colors-
Secondary colors- (created when mixing two primary colors)

Tertiary colors- created by mixing primary and secondary colors

Dimension of Colors

a. Hue: Hue is the name of a pure color, such as red, blue, or yellow.
b. Value: Value is the lightness or darkness of a hue (color). The value of a hue
can be changed by adding black or white. Light values of colors are called tints.
Darker values of colors are called shades.
c. Intensity: Intensity is the brightness or dullness of a hue (color). Pure hues are
high-intensity colors. Dull hues are low-intensity colors. Intensity of color is
changed by adding varying amounts of its complimentary color. For example, to
make a bright green duller a little bit of red could be added to it.

Warm colors: Warm colors are colors that remind us of things that are warm:
they are red, yellow and orange.

Cool colors: Cool colors remind us of things we associate with cold or coolness.
They are blue, violet and green.

6. Texture- is a sensory impression understood by sight as well as by touch. The

visual aspect of texture is perceived by the eyes because of the degree of light
absorption and reflection of the surface of the material. Texture has definite
physical dimensions of weight, size, bulk and shape.
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Factors to Consider in Choosing Color of Clothes

• Age and sex. Bright colors are good for children, while light colors are for
elderly.
▪ Today all colors are in fashion for both boys and girls.

• Season and Time. In summer, light and cool colors like green, blue, pink,
white, light purple give a feeling of coolness.
▪ Warm colors like red, orange and yellow are good for rainy season.
▪ Likewise, dark and bright colors are best to wear at night these adds beauty
of the wearer, while very warm and bright glossy clothes make the viewer
and the wearer uncomfortable.

• Size and Shape of the Body. Warm colors increase the body size and enhance
the body line, while cool colors reduce its size. On the other hand, dark and
bright colors give a healthy look to slender person.

• Color of Skin, Hair, and Eyes. Dark colors look better on person with white
complexion, cool color is on with fair complexion.

• Occasion. Dark colors represent joy and happiness, they should be wear on
parties, weddings, festivals and other related occasion.
▪ Light and dull colors are for formal occasion.

• Fashion. Colors of dress keep on changing with the change of fashion, but color
in fashion should only be worn if it suits the personality, color and figure.

• Personality. Colors enhances the personality of the wearer, some people like
bright colors others preferred dull ones.

Colors express varied moods also. Warm colors indicate cheerfulness and
enthusiasm.https://www.preservearticles.com/education/what-are-the-factors-
that-affect-colour-choice-in-clothes/13167

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What the Color You Wear Say About You..

COLOR INDIVIDUAL’S COLOR INDIVIDUAL’S

MOOD and MOOD and
PERSONALITY PERSONALITY
Loyal and confident Loving and
passionate

BLUE RED
Happy and energetic Serene and soft

YELLOW GREEN
Elegant and Pure and full of
luxurious optimism

BLACK WHITE
With royal nature and Feminine and kind
charming personality

VIOLET PINK
Unique and exciting Steady and
person dependable

ORANGE BROWN

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With charismatic Adventorous center of

personality and choice attention

GOLD SILVER
Prefer your space and
self

GRAY

Checkpoint 3. Color of Mood and Personality

Direction: Write the color of mood and personality stated below to

the color representing them.
a. Happy, fun and positive in life.
b. Elegant, luxurious and with leadership.
c. Pure; Optimistic
d. Loyal and confident
e. Exciting person

Activity 2: Design on your own…

Analyze your figure. Decide the type of garment designs and

fabrics that bring out the best in you. Surf/sketch a garment
design idea and explain why you have chosen that garment
designs and fabrics.

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To create a garment that are flattering you need to know

the elements of Design such as line, color, and shape. And by
adding interesting details following the principles of design like
balance, proportion, rhythm, emphasis, harmony

Project Plan – is our guide in making a project and if

properly done helps us manage our resources correctly such as
time, money, materials and manpower resulting to the success of
a project.

Resources: You may read the following articles for more readings on
planning a garment design.

▪ Pictures were taken from Google.com

▪ Stitch and Design (Learning Module in Dressmaking and Tailoring-
Technology and Livelihood Education by: Ines Alcantara-De Guzman,
PhD)

Job well done, Northwesternian!

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