SECTION I

ELECTRICAL GUIDELINES FOR RESIDENTIAL AND LIGHT

COMMERICAL CONSTRUCTION

Contents

1. SCOPE

GENERAL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

2.1 General
2.2 Additions to Installations
2.3 Precautions in Wet and Damp Conditions
2.4 Flexible Wires
2.5 Inspection and Testing

3. TEMPORARY SERVICES

3.1 General
3.2 Location
3.3 Operation

4. SERVICE ENTRANCE WIRING

4.1 General

Table G-1 Recommended Sizes of Service Entrances

4.2 Mechanical Support and Overhead Clearances

4.3 Service Conductor Size and Type

Table G-2 Recommended Sizes and Types of Conduit for Underground Service Entrances

4.4 Underground Service Entrance to a Utility Pole

4.5 Meter Sockets
4.6 Main Disconnects
4.7 Service Ground (Earth)
4.8 Branch Circuit Bonding
4.9 Grounds and Neutral

5. SERVICE PANEL BOARDS

5.1 General

6. BRANCH CIRCUIT WIRING

6.1 General

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6.2 Branch Wiring Systems
6.3 PVC Conduit

Table G-3 Recommended Sizes of Pipe Conduit

6.4 Wire for Conduit

6.5 Amp. Rating of Common Copper Wire Sizes

Table G-4 Amp Rating of Common Copper Wire Sizes

6.6 Romex Wiring

6.7 Receptacles and Switches
6.8 Outdoor Receptacles
6.9 Wiring of Outlets
6.10 Toggle Switches

Table G-5 Number of Socket Outlets Recommended for a Small House

7. LIGHT FIXTURES AND LIGHTING OUTLETS

7.1 Location of Fixtures

7.2 Fixture Boxes
7.3 Outdoor Fixtures

8. SPECIAL WIRING

8.1 General

9. SMOKE DETECTORS

9.1 General

10. OCCUPANCY CERTIFICATE

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 SECTION I

ELECTRICAL GUIDELINES FOR RESIDENTIAL & LIGHT COMMERICAL

CONSTRUCTION.

1. SCOPE

These guidelines are intended to cover single-phase electrical services through 100 amps for
residential and light commercial construction of less than 2500 sq. ft. in area and of not more
than two storeys.

All three-phase services, hazardous locations such as gas stations, etc. and any service over 100
amps shall be installed by an experienced electrician in accordance with the requirements set out
in the relevant Government regulations, or Regulations for the Electrical Equipment in Buildings
issued by the Institution of Electrical Engineers (IEE) of Great Britain and to the satisfaction of
the Electrical Inspector of the Ministry of Communications and Works.

The Electrical Guidelines which follow are however based on the National Electrical Code
(NEC) as published by the National Fire Protection Association of Boston , Massachusetts, USA
and may not be fully consistent with the IEE Code. When conflicts are found to exist between
the IEE standards and these Guidelines the former shall supersede.

Installers of electricity wiring and electrical equipment must therefore consult with the
Electrical Inspector and the Grenada Electricity Services Ltd. for the appropriate methods to be
used for all installations.

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2. GENERAL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

2.1 General

a) The safe and adequate installation of electrical wiring is of the utmost importance. The
leading cause of fires in many developed countries is defective or overloaded electrical
wiring. In addition many persons are killed and injured each year from contact with
faulty or incorrectly wired electrical systems.

b) Electrical contractors and all persons installing electrical wiring or electrical equipment
should be aware that in accordance with the Electricity Regulations all electrical
installations must be approved by the Electrical Inspector. The Power Company shall
not provide the electricity service unless the Inspection Certificate signed by the
Electrical Inspector is available.

c) In the event that any inconsistencies are found between these guidelines and any
electricity legislation or regulation in force in Grenada, the requirement of such
legislation or regulation shall apply.

d) The following are specifically applicable to electrical installations and supply in

Grenada:

- Supplied voltage……………400/230v,50Hz
- Single phase service…………60amps
- For single phase connection, a maximum of two (2) meters can be connected to a
building without a split unit. All meters must be at the same location.
- For a three phase connection, a splitter unit must be used when two or more meters
are connected to the building.
- Wiring Colour code
Single phase a.c. circuit---------------------------------- red or yellow or blue
Three phase a.c. circuit ---------------------------------- red, yellow and blue
Neutral a.c. single phase or three phase circuit-------- black
Earth conductor---------------------------------------------green and yellow

e) The only allowable switch receptacle in bathrooms are pull cord and shaving units
which should not be within arms length of any water supply in the absence of GFI
receptacles

e) Improper wiring is potentially fatal. Only licensed electricians should install

electrical systems.

2.2. Additions to Installations

a) No addition, temporary or permanent, should be made to the authorized load of an

existing installation, unless it has been ascertained that the current rating and the
condition of any existing wires and apparatus (including the incoming mains wire)

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which will have to carry the additional load are adequate for the increased loading, and
the earthing arrangements are also adequate.

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2.3 Precautions in Wet and Damp Conditions

a) In damp situations every item of apparatus should be of dust proof and damp proof
type. No apparatus unless suitably protected should be installed in a position where it is
exposed in water.

b) Every lamp-holder for a bayonet cap lamp in any damp situation or on any situation
where it can readily be touched by a person in contact with or standing on earthed metal
should be earthed or constructed of insulating material and for a bayonet type be fitted
with a protected shield.

c) In a situation which may normally be wet or damp, electrical installations should be

effectively connected to metal materials such as sinks, water pipes etc, to ensure
continuity of earthing.

2.4 Flexible Wires

a) Flexible cords if not properly installed and maintained can become a common cause of
fire and shock.

b) Flexible wires should not be used for fixed wiring except for the short lengths used to
connect fixed apparatus to the mains. Flexible cords should not be fixed where exposed
to dampness or immediately below water pipes. They should be open to view
throughout their entire length. Flexible cords should never be fixed by clips.

c) Connections between flexible cords and cables should be made with an

insulating connector, and this connector should be enclosed in a box or in part of a
luminaire.

2.5 Inspection and Testing

a) General

Every installation and alteration to an existing installation should be inspected and

tested on completion of the installation in accordance with the relevant Electricity
Regulation. It is recommended that testing be carried out every five years to ensure
that the system has not deteriorated due to effects of the environment on the wiring or
to other causes.

b) Inspection

Special attention should be paid to flexible cords which are connected to portable
appliances.

In old installations the insulation of cables where they enter the main switch should be
carefully examined as very often the insulation becomes damaged due to heat.

All fuses should be checked to ensure that they are the correct rating to protect the
circuit wires which they control.

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 c) Testing

The tests are normally carried out by electrical inspectors employed by the Government
to test and certify all installations. The tests are normally carried out in the following
sequence:

i) Continuity of circuit wires

ii) Continuity of protection wires

iii) Earth electrode resistance

iv) Insulation resistance

v) Verification of polarity

vi) Earth fault loop impedance

vii) Operation of protective devices

d) Insulation Resistance

The insulation resistance to earth should be less than 1 meg-ohm at 500 volts when
measured with all fuse links in place, all switches closed, and the live and neutral wires
connected together.

e) Verification of Polarity

Verification of polarity is carried out to ensure that all single pole switches, including
switches on socket outlets, are connected to the live wire or supply.

3. TEMPORARY SERVICES

3.1 General

Building sites usually need temporary power of some sort to allow use of power tools, lights, etc.
Careful planning of the temporary service can save time and money in the finished work at the
dwelling. The temporary service must be installed with the same care as a permanent
installation, since many electrical accidents can occur on the job site.

3.2 Location

a) The best location for the temporary service is on the utility service pole that eventually
will feed the permanent installation. If it is possible to get the utility to install the
needed poles without obstructing the access to the building site with overhead wires,
etc., a more satisfactory arrangement will result.

b) If the owner provides his own 4” x4” timber pole, it must be well braced and placed in
an area where it will not be damaged by job site activities. The maximum distance
from the utility pole to the temporary mast 100 ft. Make sure the overhead service

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 cable (supplied by the power company) will have clearance of at least 12 feet over
driveways and service roads. If you must cross a public road, a minimum of 18 feet
clearance is required.

c) The temporary service unit must be protected from the rain by using all rain-tight
electrical equipment or by placing the unit in a small weatherproof building with a pad
locked door.

d) The receptacles used on any electrical service must be of the three- wire type with a
ground pin. A bonding wire must be connected to the panel neutral bar, panel box
enclosure, all metal switch boxes, and the outlet (green) grounding screw on the
receptacles. A ground rod is absolutely essential. The Electrical Inspector will not
issue certificate for a service connection if it is improperly grounded.

3.3 Operation

a) Use only three wire outdoor (orange) extension cords on the job site, and check to see
that all power tools are properly grounded or are of the plastic “double insulated” type.
If the “U” shaped grounding pin on a tool cord is damaged or missing, replaced the
plug at once, connecting the green wire in the tool cord to the “U” ground pin. Inspect
all cords and tools daily for signs of damage and repair or replace them at once.

b) Never use any power tool in the rain or in a wet area. If you must use tools in a damp
location, stand on at least 2” of dry wood and wear rubber- soled boots or shoes. Bare
feet, wet ground, and a power tool are a guaranteed deadly combination.

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4. SERVICE ENTRANCE WIRING

4.1 General

a) The location where the electric lines from the power company enter the building is
called the “service entrance.” Residential service entrances are rated in amps, with the
standard sizes of 60, 100, 125, 150 and 200.

b) The information supplied below would be useful to developers and electricians

constructing dwellings and small buildings used for business where air-conditioning and
electric stoves or similar appliances are used.

c) Table I-1 below shows what size service entrance will be required, based on total square
footage of the building, including decks and outbuildings, and whether or not electric
cooking and/or full house air conditioning is used.

Table I-1

Recommended Size of Service Entrance

Total sq. ft. No electric stove Electric stove or air Electric stove and air-
Conditioner Conditioner
Up to 1000 60 amps 100 amps 125 amps
1000 – 2000 150 amps
Over 2000 Professional design
require

Note: Air conditioning means full house central a/c. If you have only one or two window
units in bedrooms, etc. use the middle column.

The minimum service entrance size for a dwelling house of more than 1,000 square
feet is 60 amps. The Power Company should be consulted for the requirements for
other buildings.

4.2 Mechanical Support and Overhead Clearances

a) The service mast pipe or conduit must be strongly fastened to the building by means of
two hole straps with lag bolts into structural members of the building frame. The
service mast must be made of galvanized steel pipe unless there is a nearby solid
portion of the building to which the power company can attach their guy wires.

b) Do not use pvc pipe for service masts since the mast takes all the strain of the entrance
cables and the extra loading caused by wind. If the service mast penetrates the roof or
soffit of the building, it should be flashed with a flexible rubber collar to prevent a leak.

c) The service mast must be high enough to allow for the following clearances (above

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 grade) of cables:

Over roofs and other buildings: 8 feet

At the service entrance location: 10 feet

Over sidewalks, paths and driveways: 12 feet

Over public streets and parking lots: 18 feet

d) The service cables must also be not less than three feet horizontally from windows,
doors, porches, and fire escapes.

e) The mast must be higher than the required clearance because the cable will droop in the
middle of its run and the power company will attach the cable somewhat below the top
of the mast.

4.3 Service Conductor Size and Type

a) Table I-2 below gives the sizes of type THW copper wire and conduit required for
service masts or underground service entrances:

b) Leave at least 2 feet of extra service wire hanging from the weather head for the power
company connections. Tape or paint the neutral wire with a white band or stripe.

Table I-2

Recommended Sizes and Type of Conduit for

Underground Service Entrances

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
60 amps: Three # 6 (13mm) wires in 1-1/4” rigid PVC conduit

100 amps: Three # 4 (22mm) wires in 1-1/4” rigid PVC conduit.

125 amps: Three # 2 (34mm) wires in 1-1/2” rigid PVC conduit.

150 amps: Three # 1(42mm) wires in 1-1/2” rigid PVC conduit.

200 amps: Three # 2/0 (67mm) wires in 2” rigid PVC conduit.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

4.4 Underground Service Entrances – to a Utility Pole.

Underground service lines may not normally be provided. Consumers can however supply

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 underground cables as part of their installation to locations specified by the Power Company. It
is recommended that the Power Company be consulted as early as possible if underground
service is required.

The following basis rules should be followed:

a) Underground service entrances are to be run in schedule 40 pvc conduit of the above
sizes (Table I-2) for distances up to 75 feet. Over this distance and up to 150 feet, use
the next larger size in the table. Runs of over 150 feet must be calculated by an
experienced electrician using the actual expected load, or a new pole must be set closer
to the building by electricity provider.

b) The conduit must be buried at least 18” deep along the run. The pole end must run at
least 10 feet up the pole and be equipped with a weather-head. The meter is generally
to be located on the building end of the run unless special permission is obtained from
the side away from the power company to place the meter on the pole. Run the pvc
conduit up the pole on the side away from any traffic to avoid damage from vehicles.
The pvc must be firmly strapped to the pole every 2 feet.

4.5 Meter Sockets.

a) The first electrical item after the weather-head and service mast is the meter socket.
Meter sockets are normally supplied by the electricity provider. The socket should be
mounted at eye level in a location that is safe from damage and easily accessible to the
meter reader. There should be a clear space of at least 3 feet in front of the meters to
allow easy access and reading. Do not put meter sockets in locked rooms without the
permission of the power company.

b) 100 amps sockets have four jaws for the meter plus a neutral/ground bar in the middle.
They have 1-1/4” hubs which can be reduced with a bushing to 1”. Although meter
sockets come in both indoor and outdoor types, the outdoor is suitable to use anywhere.
100 amp sockets can be used for 125 amp services.

c) 200 amps meter sockets are slightly larger than the 100 amp size. They normally come
with a blank plate on top and you must order “hubs” in the pipe size you need. 200
amp meter sockets can be used for all size services up to 125 amp.

d) The two hot leads from the overheads service mast are connected to the top lugs of the
meter socket and the neutral (white) wire is connected to the middle bar. If your
service is underground, you must loop the wires from below up to the top of the socket.
The square type meter cans have more room in them for this situation. Be careful not
to put the wires in such a position that the meter cannot be plugged in later.

e) The connection to the meter and all other electrical connections must be very tight and
protected from water. Use glued or threaded joints in all electrical service pipe and
treat it just as if it was a plumbing connection. Be careful not to “skin” the insulation
off the wire when pulling it through pipe and fittings.

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4.6 Main Disconnects.

a) Next in line after the meter socket is the main disconnect. The main disconnect is a very
important safety device for the home, as it allows the power to be quickly shut off in case
of fire or emergency. The following rules apply to main disconnects:

i) There must be only one main disconnect for each dwelling or apartment.

ii) The main disconnect must be mounted within 10 feet of where the
service entrance wires come through the wall of the building.

iii) The handle of the disconnect must be mounted at least 3 feet and not
more than 6’ 6” from the ground.

iv) The main disconnect must be easily accessible (not in a locked room)
and clearly labelled “MAIN DISCONNECT.”

b) Main disconnects are usually a circuit breaker in residential service, but fused switches
may be used. Use only outdoor (“rain tight”) rated equipment outdoors.

c) A main disconnect may be mounted in a box of its own at the meter location or be
included as part of the circuit breaker panel. If the circuit breaker panel is to be more
than 10 feet from where the service entrance wires come through the wall of the building,
then you must use a separate disconnect box mounted near the meter and service entrance.
If you do use this separate disconnect, then your breaker panel can be a “main lugs only”
type with no main breaker no matter how far it is mounted from the meter location.

d) If possible, plan to have the breaker panel within 10 feet of the meter, so that a main
breaker panel can be used. This arrangement is less expensive and easier to install.

e) Use the same size pipe and wire to connect the meter to the disconnect and the disconnect
to the panel as was used in the service mast.

4.7 Service Ground (earth)

a) All service entrances must be properly grounded. The power company will not connect
to any service that does not have a ground. The usual ground for a dwelling is an 8 foot
plated rod driven in the ground near the meter location. This rod is connected to the
neutral bar of both the meter socket and the main disconnect/panel by a copper wire of
#6 minimum size.
b) A special ground rod clamp is used to connect the wire to the ground rod. The wire
may be bare or have green plastic insulation, and must be placed so it cannot be
damaged by traffic, etc. It is best to run the wire inside a ½” pipe for protection. Keep
the wire as short as possible.

c) It is good practice to connect to the ground rod to a reinforcing bar in the foundation.
This will help in giving a better ground.

d) In some locations, it is not possible to place a ground rod because of rock or hard soil.

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 In this case, a ring of #6 bare copper wire must be placed completely around the
dwelling and be connected to slab reinforcing bar at all corners of the building. This
loop of wire must be buried as deep around the foundation as possible. Tie the two
ends of the loop together and connect these to the neutral bars of both the meter socket
and disconnect/panel.

e) If the building has steel frames or steel forms for the floor, these must be firmly
connected to the building electrical ground. Use #6 copper wire clamped or welded to
the steel and protect the joint from moisture. Metal roofs may also be grounded, but
run the wires only on the outside of the building, not in walls.

f) Any metal plumbing (except gas) must be bonded to the electrical ground rod. This
includes the water heater and major water appliances such as pumps, water heaters, and
washing machines. Use #10 copper wire for this purpose.

g) All metal electrical cabinets must be bonded to the ground system. Circuit breaker
panels include a special screw that is to be put through the neutral bar and driven into
the metal box. Make sure this screw is in place.

4.8 Branch Circuit Bonding

a) The service panel board contains a neutral/ grounding bar that is connected to the
metal box as above. All white, green, and bare copper wires from the branch circuits are
connected together at this bar, along with the neutral (white or “middle conductor”) from
the meter and the bare wire from the ground rod or ground loop.

b) The bare ground wire from each branch circuit installed must make a continuous
path from the ground bar in the service panel to the last receptacle, fixture, or appliance
on the circuit. The common practice of putting two ground wires under one green screw
on a receptacle is bad practice. If someone removes the receptacle, the continuous ground
path is broken. The correct way of insuring a ground is to join the bare wires together in
the back of the box with a wire nut along with a short pigtail to connect to the ground
screw on the receptacle.

c) If metal switch boxes are used, as is common in concrete construction, every box
must be connected to the ground wire. Each type box must be connected to the ground
wire. Each type box has a tapped hole in the back for this purpose. Short green
grounding pigtails with the proper screw attached are available already made up at low
cost, and can be used for this purpose. Do not depend on the screws that hold the
receptacle in the box to provide a ground, nor use any short cuts like wrapping the ground
wire around a cable clamp or similar.

d) Plastic boxes do not need to be grounded, but the ground wire should be run as
described above.

4.9 Grounds and Neutrals.

a) Many persons are confused by the different between the ground (bare) wire and the
neutral (white) wire. Since they are both connected together at the service panel, they
seem to perform the same function. This is not true.

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 b) The purpose of the ground wire is to ensure that the metal parts of any electrical box,
fixture, or appliance can not develop a voltage to the earth due to a fault or defect. The
ground wire is large enough so that if a defect occurs, the circuit breaker or fuse will
open, protecting persons from electric shock.

c) The neutral wire is the return path for the normal flow of current to the fixture or
appliance. It is connected internally to the appliance or fixture and does not contact the
metal case or housing.

d) The earth and neutral wires should be joined together only at the service panel.

5. SERVICE PANEL BOAR

5.1 General

a) The most common service panel in use today is the circuit breaker type. These are
available in sizes from 40 amps with a capacity of two poles to 225 amps with a
capacity of 42 poles. (A “pole” is a space for one single circuit breaker.)

b) The usual sizes of panels for dwellings are as follows:

60 amps: 8 or 12 poles

100 amps: 12 or 20 poles

125 amps: 16 or 24 poles

200 amps: 30 or 42 poles

It is good practice to install the largest panel available for the intended service capacity,
since spare spaces always seem to be used up sooner or later.

5.2 Breakers

a) A two pole circuit breaker has a tie between the handles and shows 220 volts at the two screw
terminals. A single pole breaker has only one screw terminal with 120 volts.

b) The breakers to be installed in a panel are usually as follows:

Electric stove: 50 amps 2 pole #6 three core + ground

Clothes dryer: 30 amps 2 pole #10 three core + ground

Water heater (large): 30 amps 2 pole #10 three core + ground

Water heater (small): 20 amps 1 pole #12 two core + ground

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 Water pump (240V): 15 amps 2 pole #14 two core + ground

Air conditioner (240V): 20 amps 2 pole #12 two core + ground

Air conditioner (120V): 20 amps 1 pole #12 two core + ground

Laundry: 20 amps 1 pole #12 two core + ground

General purpose: 15 amps 1 pole #14 two core + ground

c) Connect the black wire to the screw on single pole breakers, and the black and red wire to
each screw on 2 pole breakers. All white wires go to the neutral bar. Join all white wires
together at every switch or outlet box.

6. BRANCH CIRCUIT WIRING

6.1 General

a) Dwelling or small business premises which will be equipped with electrical

appliances such as an electric stove and refrigerator must have the following minimum
circuits: (For a 120 volt service)

- Two (2) 20 amp 120 volt outlets in the kitchen plus circuits
for the stove and refrigerator

- One (1) 20 amp 120 volt outlet in the dining area.

- One (1) 20 amp 120 volt outlet in the laundry area plus
circuits for the washer and dryer.

- One (1) 20 amp 120 volt outlet in the garage (if the house
has one) or outdoor receptacles near front and back door.

- One (1) additional 15 amp 120 volt general purpose lighting

and receptacle circuit for each 300 square feet of living
space. Each one of these circuits may feed 5 or 6 outlets or
fixtures

To this number must be added any special circuits needed for pumps, yard lights,
freezers, water heaters, air conditioners, etc.

a) In addition, each dwelling should have minimum lighting fixtures as follows:

- One (1) wall switch outdoor fixture at each outside entrance.

- One (1) switched fixture in each garage, (where constructed)

utility area. This can be either wall switched or switched at
the fixture with a pull chain, etc.

- One (1) switched fixture in each bathroom and near the

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 kitchen sink. In some jurisdictions the switches for the
bathrooms are placed on the wall immediately outside of the
bathroom.

In any event the switch should not be in a position where it can be reached by a
person in the bath tub, shower or at the kitchen sink.

- One (1) switched fixture or switched outlet in each room of

the dwelling.

6.2 Branch Wiring Systems.

The wiring used in small dwellings will fall into one of two types; either PVC conduit (used in
concrete construction) or romex cable (used in timer construction).

6.3 PVC Conduit

a) Conduit must be used in all cast concrete slabs, or concrete block walls. It
must be used in timber construction in places of public assembly, such as
restaurants, churches, schools, stores, offices, etc.

b) Conduit may be in timber dwellings if desired

c) Conduit must be used for underground wiring unless special underground cable
is used.

d) Electrical grade PVC pipe is grey in colour, although the white plumbing pipe
may be used if that is all that is available. Table I-3 below shows the sizes of
pipe used and the maximum number of wires (not including bare or green
ground wires) that can be used in each size. It is always permissible to use a
larger size pipe if you need extra room to get around a difficult wire pull.

e) A run of PVC conduit should have no more than three 90 degrees bends
between boxes. The reason for this is allow the wire to be easily be removed
by pulling if it is ever damaged in the future.

f) PVC electrical joints should be glued as watertight as if they were plumbing

fittings.

g) Use only electrical bends, fittings, and elbows with PVC conduit. Plumbing
fittings do not have the necessary room to allow wire to be pulled in or out of
the conduit. Each run of pipe should end in a male adapter and a lock nut
where it joins a thin metal box. Plastic boxes can have a glued joint.

h) Tape up conduit ends and boxes or stuff them with paper to prevent concrete
from plugging them up during a pour. Leave the conduit empty until all the
rough-in work is finished.

i) Liquid soap can be used to help ease the friction in pulling wire into empty

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 conduit. Do not use grease or oil for this purpose, as it will damage the wire
insulation over time.

j) Use care in pulling wire into conduit so that the insulation is not “skinned” by
the edge of the pipe, box or fitting. Pulling wire requires two persons, one to
pull and one to feed the wire in the pipe carefully. Pull all wires at the same
time to prevent tangles in the pipe. Pull wire out from the center of the box it
comes in to prevent kinks. Wire on reel should be set up on an axle so it rolls
off with no kinks.

k) Do not pull a wire splice into a pipe. Splices must be made in an accessible
box with a securely fastened cover. Placing pull boxes in a long run of
conduit will make the job of pulling wire easier.

l) PVC conduit can be bent by gently heating with a gas torch or heat lamp.
Rotate the pipe and move the heat source from side to side while bending. Use
a wet sponge to cool the pipe quickly after bending. Make all bends on a
gentle curve and do not bend more than 90 degrees (right angle).

m) Conduit must be firmly strapped to walls and ceilings. Use plumbing pipe
straps or plastic ones made especially for conduit. A strap is needed every four
feet. Always run conduit parallel to wall and ceiling lines for a neat
appearance. Keep conduit close to a surface wherever possible to give it
protection from being damaged.

n) Conduit should be continuous, sealed and glued, from box to box. Do not
leave gaps near the ends or try to fish wires through voids in block, etc.
Special fittings available to help out in almost any situation, and they are not
expensive.

Table I-3

Recommended Sizes of Pipe Conduit

Pipe size Usual wire size Maximum wire size

½ 6 #14 or 4 #12 3 #10
¾ 8 #12 or 6 #10 3 #8
1 4 #6 or 3 #4 3 #4
1-1/4 3 #2 Same

6.4 Wire to be used in Conduits.

a) The wire usually used in conduit is single conductor copper, either solid or stranded. It
comes in several types of insulation as follows:

Type “TW”: Soft plastic suitable for dry locations only above
grade.

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 Type “THW”: Soft plastic suitable for wet or dry locations.

Type “THHN” or “THWN”: A harder plastic with a

clear nylon coat. This wire is thinner and pulls more easily
than the types above. It is suitable for wet and dry locations as
well as areas exposed to oil and grease.

Type “XLP/USE”: A hard plastic. Can be

directly buried in the ground with no conduit. Very stiff and
hard to pull through conduit.

b) Solid wire is used up to size #10. Larger wire is stranded for ease of use.

c) Small sizes (#14, 12, 10) are available stranded, but require a special crimp lug for
connection and are not recommended for residential wiring. Do not use any wire size
smaller than #14 for electrical power wiring.

6.5 Amp. Rating of Common Copper Wire Sizes

Table I-4 gives the amp. Rating of common copper for normal use. For safe installations care must
be taken not to exceed the safe current carrying capacity of the wires by attaching more equipment
than shown for the sizes shown in the Table.

Table I-4
Amp Rating of Common Copper Wire Sizes

Size number Apms Common use

14 15 Lighting and small power
12 20 Kitchen and laundry power
10 30 Water heaters, clothes dryers
8 and 6 50 Stoves, welders

6.6 Romex wiring

a) Romex is a made of two or more insulated wires combined with a bare wire and covered
with a plastic jacket. It may be used for indoor wiring in wood frame construction. Do
not use romex outdoors or in concrete.

b) Romex comes in boxes of 250 feet and spools of 1000 feet. When you open a box of
romex, punch out the centre of the box and pull the wire from the centre of the coil. This
will keep the wire from twisting as you use it. If you use the larger spools, set the spool
up on a pipe so it can turn as you pull off the wire.

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 c) Romex is made in two and three wire types. The two wire type has a black and white
wire and is used for general purpose 120 volt wiring. The three wire type has a black, red,
and white wire and is used for 240 volt circuits and special wiring of three-way light
switches and split circuits.

d) Romex is also made in all the common wire sizes as shown in the table above.

e) Romex wiring must be hidden in walls in normally occupied areas. Romex wiring can be
run through holes drilled in rafters, joists and studs. Do not drill any hole larger than1/3
the width of any piece of lumber. Keep the Romex wiring well back from the edge of any
stud so that it will not be hit by nails when drywall or panelling is installed.

f) If Romex wiring must be exposed, keep it tightly stapled to the surface so that it is
protected from damage. A short piece of pipe can be used to protect the romex in
exposed areas or where it must run through a block wall, etc.

g) Romex can be used with either metal or plastic boxes. The metal boxes have a special
clamp to grip the romex; the plastic boxes require that you staple the romex within 6” of
the box.

h) When pulling romex through walls or floors, make sure that the insulation is not
“skinned” off the wire. All spices must be made in a box with a cover that can be
inspected after all construction is finished. Do not bury splices or boxes in walls or floors
where they can not be reached. Poor wire splices are the number one cause of electric
fires, so be sure to use proper “wire nut” or terminal for all splices. Twisting or soldering
the wire is not permitted.

i) A special type of Romex called “UF” cable is made for outdoor use. UF wire can be
directly buried in the ground or run exposed on the outside of the buildings as long as it is
protected from physical damage.

6.7 Receptacles and Switches

a) Receptacles are available in sizes and voltages to match most all branch wiring
requirements. The most common type of receptacle is the 15 or 20 a 230 volt single
receptacle. Special receptacles are made for higher amperage or voltage and are designed
to match the common wire sizes.

b) General purpose duplex receptacles must be placed along all inside walls of a dwelling so
no spot on the wall is more than 6 feet from a receptacle. This rule applies to all areas
except kitchens, bathrooms, laundries and garages. You may put 5 or 6 outlets on one 15
amp circuit breaker. Receptacles are normally mounted 12” from the floor and 6 inches
above counters.

c) Kitchens must have at least two 20 amp duplex receptacles at the counter space in
addition to the standard wall outlets. These two outlets must be wired to individual 20
amp breakers and are intended to serve heavy appliances such as toasters, fry pans etc.

d) Bathrooms need only one receptacle mounted high near the bathroom sink. This
receptacle must be the “GFI” or similar type that shuts off if there is any leakage that may
cause an electric shock. The GFI receptacle should be installed in accordance with the

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 instruction on its package and tested every month by pushing the test button.

e) Do not mount any outlet or switch so that it can be reached from the bathtub. (This
includes pull chain light switches.)

f) Laundry rooms (where an electric washing machine is being used) need one 15 amp
single outlet for the washing machine and one 20 amp duplex outlet for the iron, etc. An
electric dryer will need a 30 amp 240 volt outlet.

g) Garages need only one 20 amp duplex outlet.

h) Receptacles and switches must always be mounted in a suitable metal or plastic box.
Never install an outlet or switch without a box.

6.8 Outdoor Receptacles.

Each dwelling must have at least one receptacle. This must be the GFI type with a weather-proof
cover. Again, follow the instruction on the box when installing this outlet, and test it monthly.
This outlet is usually located near a door.

6.9 Wiring of outlets.

Receptacles would normally have three screws as follows: green for the ground wire, silver for the
white neutral wire, and bronze (or black) for the black wire. Make sure that the wires are
connected correctly to the proper screws. Do not put more than one wire under the screw. If there
is need to connect more wires, put a short jumper wire on the outlet and use a wire nut to join the
other wires. Tighten all terminal screws firmly.

Table I-5

Number of Socket Outlets Recommended

For a 3 Bedroom House

Area Minimum number Recommended number

Kitchen 4 4
Dining room 1 2
Living room 3 5
Master bedroom 2 2
Other bedroom 2 2
Corridor 1 1
Garage, workshop or storeroom - 1*
Total 15 19

 Must be water proof

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6.10 Toggle Switches

a) Most general purpose light switches are rated for 15 amps, although 20 switches are
available. Use single pole switches for all 120 volts circuits. Some switches do not have
a ground (green) screw and depend on the metal switch box for an earth. Although
switches have a silver and a bronze screw, you should put switches in the black (hot)
wires only. Never switch a neutral (white wire.

b) toggle switches are normally mounted 4 feet 6 inches from the floor and on the latch side
of doorways.

c) Special switches are made for switching a light from two or three different places. A
wiring diagram is usually shown on the carton, but you may need the help of an
experienced electrician for this sort of circuit

d) 240 volt circuits such as water pumps need a two pole switch to break both the black and
red wire. The neutral (white) wire is carried straight through with no switching.

e) Table G-5 gives the recommended number of socket outlets for a standard three bedroom
house.

7. LIGHT FIXTURES & LIGHTING OUTLETS

7.1 Location of Fixtures

a) Lighting fixtures are usually mounted on an electrical box flush in the ceiling or wall.
The only exception to this is in hung ceiling construction, where the wiring may be run
directly to the box on the fixture. Do not use a light fixture as a splice box unless it is
designed for this use.

b) Fixtures should be mounted at least 8 feet from the floor, unless there is not enough
height, in which case they should be mounted as high as possible.

c) Light fixtures generate heat and can cause fires. Do not put a surface type light fixture
in any location, such as a closet shelf, where burnable goods can come in contact with
the fixture.

d) Fluorescent light produce more light for less power and are recommended for lighting
large areas. A fluorescent fixture must be securely grounded or it will not light reliably.

6.2 Fixture Boxes

a) Fixture boxes are usually round types and must be securely mounted to take the weight

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 of the fixture. A box with a ¼” stud on the back is available to hold heavy, large
fixtures. There are also fixture bars made to hold a box the fixture mounts on.

b) Fixtures usually have a black and white wire or bronze and silver screw terminal that
should be matched up with the correct circuit wire colour. The bare ground wire must
be connected to the metal body of the fixture or the fixture mounts on.

6.2 Outdoor Fixtures

6.3 Fixtures for outdoor use must be marked as being suitable for the location. “Damp” location fix -
tures can be mounted outdoors in protected locations such as under overhangs, on porches, etc.
“Wet” location fixtures can be mounted in exposed areas. Make sure all fixtures are securely
grounded with the bare or green wire attached to the metal parts.

8. SPECIAL WIRING

8.1 General

When wiring a dwelling, give some thought to the telephone and other needs such as cable TV
which is now available in many areas, and may be a requirement of the house owner. The utility
companies should be contacted as they would usually provide the required wire and advice in
installing it. Special wall plates are available for telephone and other outlets to make a neat
installation of these services.

9. SMOKE DETECTORS

9.1 General

Smoke detectors are inexpensive battery operated devices that can provide a valuable warning in
case of fire. For a large dwelling or business premises it is recommended that a smoke detector
be mounted in each sleeping area, hall way and other areas in the building. The Fire Service
Department should be consulted as early as possible during the design of the building for advice
on the placing of smoke detectors.

10. OCCUPANCY CERTIFICATES

The Authority shall not issue an Occupancy Certificate until the electricity wiring has been
inspected and approved by the Electrical Inspector of the Ministry of Communications and
Works.

The Grenada Electricity Services Ltd. shall not supply power to any building until the
Electrical Inspector has inspected the building and approved the electricity wiring.

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