Chapter 6 (Late Middle Ages)

1. Barbette: Sam Carter & Emily Prueitt

A barbette is like a wimple because it goes under the chin to hold the head piece
in place. It’s usually worn with a fillet. The Barbette is usually made of linen and
passed under the chin from temple to temple. It usually covered the ears. The
linen was secured at the top of the head with a pin. The fillet that was worn with
the barbette looked like a crown but was made out of cloth. It was required to
wear with a crown.
Sources:https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/barbette/#:~:text=A%20piece%20of
%20linen%20which,coverings%20during%20the%20Middle%20Ages. 
https://ruthjohnston.com/AllThingsMedieval/?p=310#:~:text=It%20began%20with
%20a%20linen,never%20pictured%20without%20a%20barbette. 
Pg. 132, Survey of Historic Fashion, Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith Eubank

2. Bowl Crop- Emily Prueitt 

The bowl crop was named because it looked like an inverted bowl. Below the bowl
shape the head was shaved. The pageboys had a sort of bowl crop. This was popular in
the 15th century. This haircut has also influenced modern hair in the 80’s and 90’s and
even today. The Bowl cut is also called the mushroom cut.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/711568809871089818/ 
Survey of historic costume
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowl_cut 
3. Coat of Plates - Jillian Hohnholz and Mads Wilkins
 What a coat of
plates was a jacket covered with metal plates. The plates were overlapped and
riveted together and this offered protection. This usually didn’t weigh too much
unless one was going to war. This was especially popular around the 15th
century because this was the time of the Hundred Years’ War, which made
military gear popular and made changes where needed to existing military gear.
The plates at times were able to be bent or modified to fit accommodations.
https://steemit.com/history/@robinvuurdraak
http://www.historyofarmor.com/armor-history/history-of-plate-armor/
https://irongatearmory.com/product/visby-coat-of-plates/

4. Corset (Allie Stoddard)

The corset, also called “stays,” are made to be shapewear, creating an illusion of a
certain shape underneath a garment. During the late middle ages, the corset began to
be shaped like a V, narrowing the waist and emphasizing the chest. A corset could be
worn over or under a garment, though they were usually more decorated when seen
outside a garment.
Sources:
https://www.britannica.com/corset
https://eriehistory.org/blog/the-changing-silhoutte-of-victorian-womens-fashions-the-
history-of-the-corset
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History-of-corsets 

5. Cote-Hardie :Sabrina & Celesta

a. Originated from the outertunic or sir coat. Basically the same idea as an overcoat
in the middle ages used for outdoor wear. Fitted garment normally having buttons
down the front center of it. Both men and women woud wear them although
typically at different lengths. Originally worn by lower classes but with time and
style became high end fashion. This garment is very similar to that of a kirtle,
although more fitted and for both men and women.
b. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/483433341220089485/
 c. https://www.chegg.com/flashcards/2-the-medieval-world-ch-5-699fa5b2-f9eb-
4b12-a124-565032de5f1e/deck
d. Page 152 of Text Book

5. Crackowe - Michaela Facuri

The other name for crackowe is poulaine. Crackowe is a style of shoe that men wore
that were elongated and exaggeratedly pointed at the toe. This shoe was named after
the Poland capital, Krakow, because it was believed to have originated from there. It is
also known as poulaine because of the phrase souliers à la poulaine, "shoes in the
Polish fashion", referring to the long pointed beak of the shoe instead of the shoe as a
whole. The most extreme crackowes had the point of the toe extend as far as twenty-
four inches beyond the wearer's foot. The men who wore these shoes with extreme
lengths had to wear thin chains that connected the toe to the knee for support. Though
all shoes were pointed, the length varied, and only the wealthy and nobles wore
extreme forms of the shoes. These shoes originally were around during the 12th century
and by 1410 were out of fashion. Though during the 15th century, the style made a
comeback.
Sources: 
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (Page 154-155)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crakow
https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/
crackowes-and-poulaines  
6. Dagging – Annie Diviney
It remained popular through the 1500s.

Textbook
Dagging and Slashing - History Costume - Martel Fashion (martelnyc.com)
dagging | Fashion History Timeline (fitnyc.edu)
7. Doublet: Sabrina Walmer
a. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/23241
b. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)
c. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/doublet

d. Fitted men’s coat that originally came from Spain. Were meant to worn over the
underclothing or shirts. It was supposed to fit the mens body exactly. Not many of
these pieces of garments have survived into todays society. Most of them are
long gone. This one below was a high quality one as it has special embroidery
with silver golden silk fibers. They could be personalized for different events. The
one below was also padded and might have been for fencing. Even though
doubets were worn over shirts and drawers they were also worn under other
clothing types. Maybe some sort of overtunic. With time they were developed into
a more fashionable piece with their poofy sleeves and tight fit.

e.

f.
9. Footed Hose-Kyla Pratt & Michaela Facuri
They were worn by both men and women, but the men typically had a leather sole sewn
to the bottom, so shoes were not required. Men’s tunics and overcoats grew shorter
over time, so the hosen were cut on the bias in order to snugly fit the calf because at
this time it was fashionable to show off the shape of the leg. It covered the calf and foot
like a stocking or long sock and was made of wool. Wealthier men may have worn hose
made out of silk or velvet.
Sources:
https://rosaliegilbert.com/hose.html#:~:text=Footed%20hose%20were%20popular
%20with,sole%20sewn%20to%20the%20underneath. 
https://www.encyclopedia.com/sports-and-everyday-life/fashion-and-clothing/clothing-
jewelry-and-personal-adornment/hose-and-breeches 
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-
in-the-Middle-Ages/Hose-and-Breeches.html 

10. Fret- Karlie Brown and Esther Wambold

A fret the net part of women's headdresses. It looks like a hair net but was worn as an
adornment to the hair. It was also known as a caul. It was made of silk, silver and gold.
It was worn by royalty and nobility. 
Medieval Headdresseshttps://rosaliegilbert.com › headdresses
https://theticklishpear.tumblr.com/post/95060583016/medieval-clothing-a-masterpost-of-
sorts 
How to Make a Medieval Women's Headdress | eHowhttps://www.ehow.com › Get
Crafty › Art Projects 
11. Gambeson - Jillian Hohnholz
Gambeson is a padded undercoat worn with armor. The wearer would first put on a
close fitted shirt and braies. On the same layer he would wear hose as well. All
appendages would be covered by metal, and on his torso he would place the
gambeson. Over the gambeson would lay the chain mail or hauberk / haubergeon, and
the metal plates to cover the torso. Gambeson was made of several layers of fabric and
often stuffed with wool, horse hair or other padding type materials. Sometimes they
would saturate the padding with salt. This heavily quilted garment would likely help with

comfort and prevent chafing.

Sources: Survey of Historic Costume, https://forgeofsvan.com/product/gambeson/ ,
https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/ufarm/hd_ufarm.htm 

12. Gipon–Annie Diviney, Hope V

Tunic that was worn beneath armour. Padded front. Was first a military garment. Button
front and reached to the knees. Also known as a pourpoint. The gipon was always
kept at a certain length. When the lengths started changing, it’s named
changed to a “ pourpoint”. By the 15th and 16th century it morphed into a
doublet. A gipon was very simple and undecorated. It offered protection and
was often worn under clothing or armor. Ornamentation was minimal in
contrast to other garments of the time.

http://web.ceu.hu/medstud/manual/SRM/male.ht

Gipon | clothing | Britannica

13. Gown- Larissa, partner

Rosalie's Medieval Woman - Cotes and Tunics

https://www.hisour.com/european-fashion-history-1400-1500-32341/ 
https://historicenterprises.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=100_125 
This was the everyday loose fitting tunic being the main garment of both sexes. It was
called a cote during this time, but many modern people consider it to be a tunic. It is
worn as an outer layer and can be anywhere from knee length to full length. They can
include different necklines depending on the era. Gowns were worn over kirtles or
undergowns. Sleeves were often heavily decorated. 

15. Hennin-Mads Wilkins

 https://medievalbritain.com/type/medieval-life/clothing/medieval-hennin/
A hennin was a tall, cone-shaped headdress worn by women in France and
Burgundy. The hennin typically had no brim and a flat top and its height ranged
from a few inches to a yard (its name comes from a word meaning “to
inconvenience”). This hat was worn slightly tilted backwards and hid the hair and
the hairline. A circular veil was draped over the hennin with the front edge draped
just above the eyes and the rest behind the head and the hennin usually had a
jewel or small loop at the forehead. 
https://medievalbritain.com/type/medieval-life/clothing/medieval-hennin/
https://rosaliegilbert.com/hatsandhennins.html
Survey of Historic Fashion
17. Houppelande-Kyla Pratt
 g. This was an outer garment worn by both men and women in the late
medieval period. It was like a long, flowy cloak with flared sleeves that
buttoned up at the neck. Because it used so much fabric, it was mainly
worn by people who were wealthy. Men typically wore them shorter, but
women always wore them floor length. Men also wore a belt beneath the
waist and women wore theirs beneath the bust.
g. https://nationalclothing.org/653-medieval-houppelande-%E2%80%93-
opulent-and-regal-outerwear.html 
g. https://medieval-market.com/details.php?id_towar=24  
19. Huke - Hope Vander Meiden
The huke was a garment worn by upper class men. It originated as a covering for
armor. It’s closed over the shoulders and open at the sides. In the shorter versions,
there was a slit. In longer versions, there was no slit. 

https://lowelldesigns.com/the-gothic-period-medieval/

https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/
FashionHistoryoftheHIghandLateMiddleAgesClothingo-the11th-15thCentury

24. Parti-Colored: Sarah Smith

Parti-Colored, also known as mi-parti. A method of decoration where one half or

one quarter of a garment was made in one color and pattern and the other or
others in a different one. Both men and women would wear parti-coloured. Some
examples are ladies gowns, men’s tunics, hoods, and cloaks but it was the
masculine hose which were most treated this way. It was split down the middle
and was typically worn by musicians, jesters, or liveried servants.
 Source: 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/particolored/
http://www.larsdatter.com/particolor.htm
Survey of Historic Costumes Pg 148

25. Page Boy (Haircut) - Esther Wambold

The pageboy haircut gets its name from medieval English pages as it is believed to be the hairstyle that
they favored. It is a shoulder length hairstyle with the ends rolled under. It was a popular hairstyle for
women in the 20s, 50s and 60s. 
 
100% Virgin Remy Human Hair,Quality Hair Extensions Wholesale. (2022). Nadula.com.
https://www.nadula.com/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-pageboy-haircut/ 
‌Pageboy Haircut: Timeless and Stylish. (2022). Schwarzkopf.com. https://www.schwarzkopf.com/article-
overview/hairstyling/pageboy-haircut.html#:~:text=This%20style%20gets%20its%20name,pageboy
%20hairstyles%20and%20straight%20bangs. 
‌Merriam-Webster Dictionary. (2022). Merriam-Webster.com.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/page%20boy 
‌ 

30. Poulaine - Celesta Graham

 Poulaine (French), also known as Crawkowe (English), was a type of shoe with a
pointed toe named after Poland. This style can be seen in earlier eras, but as it
decreased in popularity in other parts of Europe, it remained popular in Poland,
until it was once again returned in western Europe. Because the toes extended
so far outward, they were often stuffed with a variety of materials or attached to
the knee to keep them out of the way of the wearer while they walked. Although
pointed shoes were a popular style in this time era, Poulaines were used as a
symbol of status and wealth, as they exaggerated the length of the pointed toe. 

Sources:

*Survey of historic costume, fifth edition

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/poulaine/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81228

31. Pourpoint:Ruby Alder

The pourpoint (pour-pwant), also known as the doublet (dub’let) or gipon (jhi-
pahn), was originally military dress. For military uses, it was a sleeveless
garment, fitted closely with padding in the front. It was worn alone as armor,
under armor, or even on top of the armor. After 1340 it became normal for civilian
men to wear this. For civilians, it was closefitting, worn with long hose, and had to
be laced up like women.
  
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-
in-the-Middle-Ages/Pourpoint.html
http://web.ceu.hu/medstud/manual/SRM/male.htm 
Survey of Historic Costume
33. Smock-Larissa Crandall

Smocks or shifts (‘chemise’ in French) were the most basic undergarment of all
women and men in sixteenth-century Europe. Men's smocks were most often
referred to as shirts. They were made from linen, sometimes silk, and later
cotton, and sat closest to the body. Smocks and shirts were worn underneath
every type of clothing. Though these were often plain some might have been
decorated around the neckline and sleeves. Men’s and Women’s shifts or
smocks were mostly similar with small differences. 
Rosalie's Medieval Woman - Chemises
Back to Basics: The Smock in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries
34. Custom of Buttoning Men’s Coats- Karlie Brown
 The custom of buttoning men’s coats buttoning left over right comes from the
construction of the breast plate. It was made this way for battle. “Impacts of lance and
sword were expected to hit primarily on the knight’s left side,” another source says,
“because male soldiers also often drew their weapons with their right hand,
building their clothes with the buttons on the right side would have made it a lot
easier to adjust and unbutton with their free left hand.” So it is generally accepted
that the reason mens coats button on the right side is because of battle. Another
interesting fact about women’s buttons being on the opposite side, is so their
servants could dress them easier with their dominant hand. 

https://www.insider.com/why-mens-and-womens-shirts-button-on-different-sides-
2016-11 
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/heres-why-mens-and-womens-
clothes-button-opposite-sides-1-180957361/#:~:text=Thus%2C%20men's
%20jackets%20button%20left,free%20left%20hand%2C%20Garber%20writes. 
https://www.rd.com/article/womens-mens-shirt-buttons-different-sides/ 
Survey of Historic Costume: Chapter 6