Exam Horticulture
Exam Horticulture
Exam Horticulture
Overview
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viii. Other crops – e.g. sweet corn, okra, asparagus.
2. Fruit Crops
i. Tree fruits – fruits borne on trees (e.g. mango, lanzones).
ii. Nut fruits – fruits borne on trees but which enclosed by a stony
structure (e.g. cashew1, pili).
iii. Small fruits – fruits not borne on trees and are small (e.g. strawberry,
grapes).
iv. Herbaceous fruits – fruits not borne on trees but borne on plants with
upright succulent, supporting stem (e.g. banana, pineapple).
3. Ornamentals
Classified according to their special uses, based on the specific plant part
aesthetically valued and on the form in which the plants are maintained or
marketed.
i. Cut flowers of florist crops – plants grown for their flowers (e.g. gladiolus,
roses).
ii. Cut foliage or florist greens – a plant whose foliage provides the
background in floral arrangement (e.g., fern, palm, asparagus).
iii. Flowering pot plants – a plant grown in containers for their beautiful
flowers, usually used for display purpose (e.g. chrysanthemum, santan,
bougainvillea).
iv. Landscape plants – plants used for landscaping purposes. Almost all the
ornamental fall under this category.
v. Foliage plants – plants grown for their attractive foliage, can tolerate low
light intensities (e.g. begonia, philodendron).
vi. Turf – used for lawns or greens (grass for golf) – e.g., manila grass,
Bermuda grass.
4. Plantation crops
Classified according to their usual components; may have different cultural
practices but their principal products can be substituted for one another.
i. Oil crops – grown for their oil content (e.g. coconut, oil palm).
ii. Fiber crops – grown for their fibers which are used for textiles,
cordage, pulp, paper, twines, sacks, bags, mats, decors (e.g. abaca,
maguey).
iii. Beverage crops – used for brewing non-alcoholic drinks (e.g. coffee,
cacao, tea).
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iv. Spices, condiments and essences – used to provide special flavors,
scents and colors to food, perfumes, soaps and body dressings (e.g.
black pepper, vanilla, canella).
v. Latexes and resins – crops where products of the sap (latex) tapped
from the bark or fruit peel are obtained (e.g., rubber) – chico, papaya,
pili, rimas, which are classified under fruit crops.
vi. Medicinal and botanical pesticides – crops with curative, laxative or
pesticidal properties. e.g. bunga, lagundi, neem
B. Classification according to growth habits
1. Vine – requires support for upright growth.
2. Shrub – with several more or less upright stems; woody; perennial.
3. Herb – succulent and has self-supporting stem.
4. Tree – with single central stem and usually taller than shrubs at its peak height.
C. Classification according to life span
1. Annuals
- single growing season
- perpetuated by seed
- include major crops of the world
- all grains and many legumes
2. Biennials
- two growing seasons (2 years)
- 1st year accumulate food reserves
- 2nd year produce reproductive flowers and seeds
- carrots, onion, cabbage
3. Perennials
- continue growing indefinitely
- most add new growth each year
- some are perennial in one climate annuals in another
- cotton, tomato, etc.
Importance of horticultural crops
1. economic importance
2. nutritive value
3. aesthetic, therapeutic and recreational importance
4. traditional uses
- maximizing/ preventing soil erosion
- medicinal value
REFERENCES
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Bautista, O.K. (ed), 1994. Introduction to tropical Horticulture, SEAMEO, SEARCA and
UPLB College Laguna, pp.13-67. Pava, H.M. and Abellanosa, A. L., 1995 Introduction
to Crop Science, 2nd ed., CMU, Musuan, Bukidnon, pp. 43-51
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:________
TEST; identify the following items.
2._________________ A single central stem and usually taller than shrubs at its peak
height.
7.________________ A crops grown mainly for their leaves (e.g. pechay, alugbati).
9._______________A crops with swollen underground stem or roots (e.g. sweet potato,
onion, gabi, carrot, radish).
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12.____________________ Crops belonging to cucurbit family (e.g. squash,
watermelon).
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LESSON 3
1. planting systems
a. square
b. quincunx
c. hexagonal or triangular
d. contour system
2. distance of planting
3. laying out of the area
4. planting
5. digging holes
6. planting the trees
Planting System
1. Square
- consists of setting a tree in each of a square whatever the planting
distance; and
- most common system of planting because it is the simplest to lay out and
makes operation easy by mechanical means.
A
Np = --------
S2
where:
Np = no. of plants
A = area
S2 = square of planting distance (spacing)
X Permanent trees
O Fillers
The quincunx or diagonal system makes use of a square with an additional (or
fifth) tree in the center. Thus, a square system can be made into quincunx by placing a
tree in the middle of the square. There will be maximum utilization of the area during the
early growing and fruiting years. However, when trees become large and start crowding
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one another, removal of the fifth trees may become necessary. Furthermore, a larger
tree population can be planted in an area using the quincunx system compared with the
square system. However, mechanically carrying out the different cultural operations on
the diagonal system is difficult, especially if the land is not flat.
where:
Table 1. Planting distance of various fruit, vegetable and plantation crops for
square and other systems of planting.
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Castor 0.5 m Radish 0.30 x 0.10 m
Notes:
a. Planting distance will also depend on other factors.
b. Entries like “2.0” and “4.0 – 6.0 m” indicate square planting, the second referring
to a range of spacing between rows or between , as the case may be.
c. Entries like “0.75 x 0.10 m” indicate a planting system other than square.
3. Hexagonal or Triangular system - trees are planted equidistant to one another
from every direction to form an equilateral triangle.
A
Np = --------------
S2 x 0.866
where:
A = area
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REFERENCES
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:________
Given; Jackfruit
L = length of the area-20
W = width of the area-10
S2 = square of planting distance-8m
A = area- 5 hectares
Np = number of plants -2,000
Answer;
2. 1. Formula; Np = A/S2 + (L/S – 1) (W/S – 1)
Given; Avocado
L = length of the area-15
W = width of the area-8
2
S = square of planting distance-8m
A = area- 3 hectares
Np = number of plants -1,200
Answer;
3. Formula;
A
Np = --------------
S2 x 0.866
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Given; Mango
A = area- 2 hectares
Answer;
4. Formula;
A
Np = --------------
S2 x 0.866
Given; Tomato
A = area- 2 hectares
Answer;
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LESSON 4 Propagations
SEED PROPAGATION
Structure of Seeds
A seed is mature ovule. It consists of an embryo, its food reserves (endosperm,
cotyledon) and the seed covering called testa or seed coat.
Types of Seeds
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1. Orthodox – seeds that could be kept for longer periods compared with others
under the same environmental conditions, provided they are properly dried and
stored, e.g. atis, chico, guyabano, okra, eggplant, all legumes, etc.
2. Recalcitrant – seeds which cannot withstand drying and should not be permitted
to dry out before planting, e.g. durian, mango, citrus, cacao, rubber, avocado,
lanzones, etc.
Important characteristics of good seeds:
1. damage-free
Seed Testing
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Petri-dish or filter paper method – ten
seeds (10) will be sown in each of ten
petri-dishes lined with moistened filter
paper.
the transition of seeds from a dormant state to intensive vital activity, as a result
of which the embryo begins growing and a sprout is formed from which a young
plant develops; the initial stage of plant ontogeny.
Calculating Percent Germination
Various methods have been used by seed scientist and technologists to break the
dormancy of seed.
A. Scarification:
Any treatment i.e. physical or chemical that weakness the seed coat, is known as
scarification.
In this method there are various way to break hard seed coat such as:
1. Seeds are either rubbed on a sand paper manually. At the time of rubbing care
should be taken that not to damage the axis of the seed e.g. Green gram &
subabool.
2. When seed coat is too hard i.e. of woody nature, the seed coat has to be
removing completely by breaking it. E.g. Rubber (Havea app) seed India teak
wood seed.
3. Soaking treatment: Soaking hard seed coat in concentrated or diluted solution of
sulphuric acid for 1 to 60 minutes, it remove seed coat impermeability. E. g.
cotton seeds, India teak wood seeds etc.
B. Temperature Treatments:
1. When the dormancy is due to embryo factor i.e. the seed is incubating at low
temp. (0- 5o C) over a substratum for 3 to 10 days placing it at optimum temp.
Required for germination. E.g. mustard. – (Brassica campestrits)
2. Some seeds required a brief period of incubation (from a few hours to one to five
days) at 40 to 50 oC before germinating at required temp. ( in this method care
should be taken that moisture content of the seed is not more than 15% e.g.
paddy (Oryza Sativa)
3. Hot water treatment is also an effective method of breaking hard- seed ness in
legumes. In this method the seeds are soaked in water at 80oC temp. For 1 – 5
minutes (depending up on the type of seed) before putting for germination.
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C. Light Treatments:
Same seeds do not germinate in dark thus it provides continuous or periodic exposure
of light is essential e. g. Lettuce (Lactuca Sativa) required red light (660nm) or white
light is essential for germination to occur.
Most widely used growth regulators are gibberellins and kinetics e.g. seeds of sorghum
crop presoaking seed treatment with GA3 at the conc. Of 100 ppm have been used for
breaking seed dormancy
Among other chemicals potassium nitrate (0.2%) and thio – urea (0.5 to 3%) are widely
used for breaking seed dormancy in oat (Avena Sativa), barley (Hordeum vulgare),
tomato (Lycopersicon spp).
(For prepare 100 ppm solution of GA3, weigh 100 mg of GA3 & dissolve in a few drops
of alcohol and make up the final volume (1000 ml) by adding distilled water).
(50 ppm kinetin 5 mg dissolved in few drops of alkaline made with sodium hydroxide
and makes the final volume 100ml it gives to final conc. Of 50 ppm)
To get the percent germination of the test seed it is better to determine the number of
seeds to be sown. You may follow the given formula in determining the percent
germination.
Example: you have sown 100 eggplant seeds and only 85 had germinated. You can
determine the percent germination of your eggplant by substituting the formula with your
values.
Therefore, percent germination will be:
% germination = 85 x 100
100
% germination = 85
A good seed should have at least 80% germination.
http://www.agriinfo.in/?page=topic&superid=3&topicid=81
Germination test
1. Ragdoll method – use of a piece of cloth as big as a handkerchief. The seeds
are placed in 10 rows with at least 10 seeds/ row.
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3. Petri-dish or filter paper method – 10 seeds will be sown in each of ten petri-
dishes lined with moistened filter paper.
Formula:
no. of seeds germinated
% germination = --------------------------------- x 100
no. of seeds sown
recommended rate/ha
Adjust amount of seed = -------------------------------- x 100
%germination
Dormancy refers to the inability of the seed germinate when provided with proper
environmental conditions for germination.
Hastening Seed Germination
Scarification is any treatment that removes the seed coat or alters it,
making it more permeable to water. Mechanically and carefully cracking or
breaking the seed with a hammer or cracking sees between the jaws of a
vise, rubbing with sand paper, scratching, soaking with water or acids.
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:________
#1 Germination test
1. Ragdoll method – use of a piece of cloth as big as a handkerchief. The seeds are
placed in 10 rows with at least 10 seeds/ row.
Work at home
Materials;
1. Prepare 100 seeds of any of the following (rice, corn, monggo, sitao, sunflower,
squash)
2. Towel or handkerchief.
3. Stick
4. Water
5. Label
6. tying materials
Procedure;
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1. Prepare handkerchief make sure it is wet for faster germination of seeds.
2. Row the seeds by 1o with at least 10 seeds per row.
3. Put the stick at the edge of handkerchief then roll until the next edge of the
handkerchief.
4. Tie both side of the roll handkerchief into the stick.
5. Then sock it into the prepared water make sure it is fully wet for fast germination.
6. then put label to the finish product see to it the date process, kind of seed use, date
of opining the ragdoll etc.
7. the seed germination will be 5-7 days, depend on the quality of seeds use.
2. Seedbox method – 100 seeds will be sown in rows containing a sterile medium
composed of sand, compost and ordinary garden soil (1:1:1 ratio)
Work at home
Materials;
1. Prepare 100 seeds of any of the following (rice, corn, monggo, sitao, sunflower,
squash)
2. box at least .5 meter width and length.
3. prepared sterile medium compost.
4. Water
5. Label
Procedure;
1. Prepare the box with soil media.
2. Row the seeds by 1o with at least 10 seeds per row.
3. Use watering can to water the seeds inside the box.
4. Then sock it into the prepared water make sure it is fully wet for fast germination.
5. then put label to the finish product see to it the date process, kind of seed use, name
etc.
6. the seed germination will be 5-7 days, depend on the quality of seeds use.
3. Petri-dish or filter paper method – 20 seeds will be sown in each of 5 petri-dishes
lined with moistened filter paper.
Work at home
Materials;
1. Prepare 100 seeds of any of the following (rice, corn, monggo, sitao, sunflower,
squash)
2. prepare transparent dish or petri dishes (5).
3. prepared moistened filter paper if available (optional tissue paper)
4. Water
5. Label
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Procedure;
1. Prepare the petri dishes.
2. Row the seeds by 5 with at least 20 seeds per dishes.
3. put 20 drops water inside each dishes.
4. then put label to the finish product see to it the date process, kind of seed use, name
etc.
5. the seed germination will be 5-7 days, depend on the quality of seeds use.
LESSON 5 Production
SEEDLING PRODUCTION
Plants may be grown from seeds or other vegetative parts like tubers, corms and
cuttings. Plants grown from seeds may either be direct-seeded or transplanted. The
decision whether to transplant or direct seed may depend on the following factors:
1. Rate of regeneration – seedlings like tomato and cabbage have fast of root
regeneration, hence, even if damaged can easily regenerate new roots. In
contrast, seedlings of bean and cucumber have slow rate of root
regeneration, hence, if damaged will take a longer time to regenerate.
2. Types of root system – radish, carrots and beets have long tap root which if
damaged will result in malformed root; hence, they are generally direct-
seeded.
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3. Rate of germination and seedling growth – seeds which have the fast rate of
germination and seedling growth are generally direct seeds can easily survive
and compete with weeds but seeds with slow rate of germination and initial
seeding growth cannot compete effectively with weeds, hence, they are
generally transplanted.
4. Size and cost of seeds – generally big seeded crops are direct seeded while
small seeded crops are transplanted. Expensive seeds are recommended for
transplanting to utilize all seeding and avoid too much wastage.
1. Select high quality seeds – seeds with high germination and vigor are
recommended to be sown. Seeds must be free from seed borne diseases.
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Brushing – is another method of hardening which is done by passing a long
pole several times over the canopy of the seedling to induce morphological
changes.
C. Asexual Propagation
REFERENCE
A. Budding – is similar to grafting except that only one bud eye is used as scion.
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3. chip budding
Reason for Budding
b. a horizontal cut is made through the bark about one third (1/3) the
distance around the stock.
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a. starting about 1/2 “ below the bud, a slicing cut is made under and about 1
inch beyond the bud; and
b. about 3/4 inch above the bud, a horizontal cut is made through the bark
and into the wood, permitting the removal of the bud piece.
a. the shield piece is inserted by pushing it downward under the two flaps of
bark until the horizontal cut on the shield and the stock are even; and
b. the bud union is then tied tightly with some wrapping materials, e.g.
polyethylene plastic/budding tape.
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https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/06-grafting/03-buddingtypes/06-grafting-
budtbud.html
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a. a double blade knife or budding knife is used to make parallel horizontal cuts
about 1/3 the distance around the stock; and
https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/06-grafting/03-buddingtypes/05-grafting-
budpatch.html
a. when patch bud is ready, the bark from the stock is removed and the bud
is inserted; and
B. Grafting
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Grafting - is the art of connecting two pieces of living plant tissue together in such a
manner that they will unite and subsequently grow and develop as one
plant.
Scion - is the short piece of detached shoot containing several dormant buds,
which when united with the stock, comprises the upper portion of the graft
and from which will grow the stem or branch or both of the grafted pant.
Root stock- is the lower portion of the graft; the root system of the grafted plant.
1. incompatibility
2. kind of plant
3. temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during and following grafting
4. growth activity of the stock plant
5. propagation techniques
6. virus contamination, insects and diseases
7. plant growth regulators
Mother Plant – refers to a tree whereby seed for rootstock and scion were obtained.
1. regular bearer
2. prolific bearer
3. bears fruit superior quality
4. free from diseases
5. resistant to adverse climatic condition
Characteristics of a Good Method of Propagation
1. dependable
2. economical
3. produce plants that are true to type
4. easy to perform
Steps in Grafting
2. cut back the stock to the point where the bark easily separates from the wood;
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3. choose the scion with a diameter as big as the stock;
8. wrap the graft union by winding a polyethylene strip around it; and
9. cover the scion with polyethylene plastic.
Important Tips for Successful Grafting
2. Buds on scion must be plump and dormant but ready to burst into growth.
3. Union between scion and stock takes principally between bark and wood
hence, it is necessary to align them carefully.
4. Cuts on the stock and scion must be straight, smooth and free of fibers. A
sharp knife is necessary.
6. The scion must be securely tied to the stock. Too little pressure will result in
the wrap falling or the scion shifting while too much pressure will crush the
tissue.
Side grafting
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Finish product of side grafting
https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/06-grafting/02-graftingtypes/12-grafting-side.html
Cleft Graft
The cleft graft is a simple, low-skill graft to try. You don’t need finesse with a knife
or complex equipment: your grafting knife and a butcher’s cleaver saw, or similar home
tool and little else are all you need to try it out on a fat, living rootstock. A fresh tree stump
will do.
Cleft grafts are for joining scions to a relatively large piece of wood, the size of a
major branch or as large as a stump. You could use a cleft graft to topwork a tree to turn it
into a new type of tree, or to change over parts of it.
If you want to create a novelty fruit tree in which you combine, for example, many different
apples on one tree, a cleft graft is a graft you might use on fat, major scaffold branches (a
graft for somewhat smaller branches would be the side-stub graft).
Materials Needed
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Grafting knife
Clefting Tool: This is a specialized tool for exactly this kind of graft. It has a long
wedge blade area blade for splitting and a hook end for prying and holding the
cleft apart.
Mallet
Sealing wax
Alternative Materials
Unlike most other grafts, there is a way to cleft graft with just simple tools. You should still
make the graft in very early spring and use the rootstock and scion described above, but
the tools described below can take the place of the specialized implements above.
Instead of a grafting knife, use a high quality and sharp paring knife or pocket
knife may suffice to cut the one-year wood.
For the clefting tool, a butcher’s cleaver, ax, long chisel, or similar tool may
suffice. A saw may work, too. A fat chisel will be helpful.
Instead of a mallet, a hammer or even a two-by-four or a block of wood will do.
No wax? If you are working on a very low stump, you can pile soil on the whole
stump, the cleft and all around the union and this may work to seal in moisture
well enough.
Before starting, note that this project is best undertaken in early spring. All plant material
should be dormant. Ideally, this graft is made when the buds of the rootstock are
beginning to swell. If you cannot see buds, approximate with a time in late winter.
1. Cleave the rootstock. Position your cleaving tool on the diameter on top of your
rootstock. Using your mallet, drive it in. You want the split to go down about six
inches. Leave a fat chisel, wedge, or similar tool in the cleft center to hold it open.
2. Make a long wedge at each scion’s base. This wedge is long and tapering to a
point, about six inches long total. If you are skilled enough with the grafting knife
to do it, the two faces of the wedge should not be parallel to each other, but
rather on a slight angle to create a fatter non-face side and a thinner non-face
side. This will better fit into the cleft.
3. Insert the scions the full depth of their wedge bottoms. Two scions go in each
cleft, one at each point where the cleft intersects the ring of cambium. This ring is
located just inside the bark of the rootstock and scion. Try to line up the cambium
layer of the scion with the bark as you insert it. If the scion wedge you made was
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the more advanced, non-parallel faces type, the fatter side goes to the outside of
the cleft.
4. Using wax or soil, seal the unions against drying.
5. Follow up with general aftercare, such as humidity control, until the union fully
takes. Also, at some point, after your scions have grown on, choose the
healthiest and truest-growing of the two scions, and eliminate the other.
1.https://www.thespruce.com/thmb/JMzCd3W7oCbN61-w1ezi6QlrKU0=/960x0/
filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(webp)/Innesto_a_spacco_diametrale.svg-
5817760b3df78cc2e8e96c2e.png
2.https://www.google.com/search?
q=cleft+grafting+steps&rlz=1C1GGRV_enPH859PH859&sxsrf=ALeKk03JJH8MfQmjIzdHXbp_9duHCZfL5A:
1597034172184&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ajGxRQRbdEaqaM%252CI2uTmD2W9Ah4bM
%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRcdlhB7aU-GmGw5NssnHmOYrfkYA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi4ppv054_rAhUh-
2EKHYSjDCcQ_h0wAHoECAkQBA&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=poOmob4zfCzDPM
Figure 4. Cleft grafting
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Step 1: Vertical Incisions
Make four 3-inch vertical incisions through the rootstock's bark, starting at the
top. Slip a small rubber band on the rootstock, stopping just below these vertical cuts.
With the point of a knife, separate the bark from the wood at the tip of the rootstock.
Peel the bark down in four 3-inch-long flaps. Cut off an equal-sized piece of rootstock
with shears after peeling back the bark.
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Step 3: Connect Scion and Rootstock
Place the cut end of the scion inside the four flaps, lining up each cut surface
with a flap.
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Step 5: Protect the Graft
Protect the graft by wrapping it with a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, then a
piece of plastic.
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Figure 5. Bark grafting
https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/06-grafting/02-graftingtypes/08-grafting-
inarching.html
Figure 6. Inarching
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C. Layering
1. simple to perform;
2. gives a high degree of success;
3. an inexpensive method of propagation;
4. can be produced in a shorter time;
5. produces true to type plants; and
6. no rootstocks needed.
Steps in Air Layering:
1. select a pencil size branch;
2. the branch should be girdled for a distance of about 1 inch;
3. scrape the cambium layer properly; and
4. a ball of sphagnum moss (or coconut fibre soaked in water) is placed
around the girdled section and wrapped with polyethylene film at each
end.
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Steps for making an air layer include:
1. Girdle stem.
2. Remove several leaves around wound.
3. Pack area with moist sphagnum or peat moss.
4. Cover moss with polyethylene plastic and tie each end.
5. Check to make sure moss remains moist until roots form.
6. After roots are visible inside the bag, the rooted stem can be cut from the mother
plant and potted.
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Reflective foil or black plastic may be used to protect the rooting area of the
layer.
Air layers are usually made on stems from the previous season's growth. Best
results are from shoots with several leaves on stems that are actively growing.
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Because it can be so humid in the tropics, air layering can be successful by
girdling the stem and covering with aluminum foil.
https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/08-layering/01-layering-air.html
Figure 7. Air layering or marcotting.
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:____
1. Air layering or marcotting. Please refer to the lecture above for you to know the
process and procedure.
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2. Grafting Please refers to the lecture above for you to know the process and
procedure.
LESSON 6
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PRUNING AND Trimming
1. good growth
2. develop a strong and open framework
3. control general configuration
4. rejuvenate old plants
5. improve productivity
6. flowering
Pruning procedure
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2. If a big step is to be removed, first make a small cut underneath the stem before
starting the next cut above.
4. Paint the cut or brush them with coal tar to prevent entrance of micro-organism.
Trimming – is a term for techniques that control the growth of plants in terms of shape,
size and spatial direction.
Trellis – any material that gives support to plants that cannot stand on their own.
Types of Trellis:
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Tel # +63 (083) 228-8756 / email: marvelous.college@yahoo.com
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:____
Test 1. Discuss briefly the following items.
2. Pruning procedure
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Dish Gardening
Dish Gardening & Windowsill Gardening Dish Gardening. A dish garden is a pleasing
arrangement of several different plants in a single container. The container can be of almost any shape
or size and may be made of most any material. Dish gardens are especially valuable because they can be
easily placed at various vantage points throughout your home. Some suggested locations might include
tables, mantles, pedestals or windowsills. The success or failure of your dish garden is largely dependent
on the plants’ ability to adapt to a wide range of conditions. Planting technique, type of container, soil
mixture, watering and lighting are the most important considerations in assembling and caring for your
dish garden.
α Container. The container may be round, square, oval, oblong or any other shape you desire. It
may be made of any material from glass to clay pottery. If brass, copper or iron containers are used,
they should always have some type of liner. Aluminum foil, a polyethylene bag or a plastic liner all suit
this purpose very well. The color or your container should be neutral and able to fit easily into the
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surroundings. Various shades of green, brown or yellow seem to work very well. Take care to choose a
container not less than 3 inches deep. Few containers provide drainage and most are too shallow for
interesting plantings. The ideal container should be deep enough for a one-inch layer of gravel and
charcoal beneath the soil, plus at least 2 to 3 inches of planting soil.
α Soil. Use a prepared potting soil or a mixture of one part sand or perlite, one part soil and one
part peat moss. Add one level teaspoon of a 5-10-5 fertilizer for each six inch pot of soil added.
α Drainage. Use any coarse material such as gravel or broken flowerpots. Charcoal should be
mixed in to provide oxygen.
α Plants. Three to six small plants, depending on container size, are usually sufficient to make a
pleasing dish garden arrangement. Dish Gardening & Windowsill Gardening 2
α Construction procedure. ƒ Select your container. Make sure it is at least 3 inches deep, but not
more than 6 inches deep. Remember to line all metal containers. ƒ Add the necessary drainage material
consisting of charcoal, gravel or crushed clay pots. There should be from ¾ to 1-inch of drainage
material.
ƒ Select and group plants according to similar growth requirements. For example, low light, high
moisture plants in one container while high light, low moisture plants are grouped in another. This
practice of grouping plants according to similar requirements is extremely important for a successful
dish garden. In considering plant groupings, you must also take into account the leaf textures, colors and
growth habits of the various plants. A pleasing variety of the different types of plants should be one of
your primary goals. While contemplating your planting arrangement it is best to leave the plants in their
containers. By doing this you will be able to try several different arrangements without injuring the
plants. For a symmetrical planting, feature a tall plant in the center with shorter plants on either side.
For an asymmetrical design, place the tallest plant off center, balanced by lower plants on the opposite
side.
ƒ Once you have decided on a pleasing arrangement, add from ½ to ¾-inch of soil on top of the
gravel. Next, carefully remove the plants from their containers, arrange them in place and add soil. Do
not set plants deeper than they were in their pots. Firm the soil around the plants and water thoroughly,
but do not soak.
ƒ Regular care of the dish garden will include regular watering according to requirements,
thinning overgrown plants, and insect control.
Name:_______________________________Yr.&Sec:____________Date:____
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Long Quiz
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1. Types of Trellis
2. Pruning procedure
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Test 111 Solve the following items.
1. Formula; Np = A/S2 + (L/S – 1) (W/S – 1)
Given; Jackfruit
L = length of the area-20
W = width of the area-10
S2 = square of planting distance-8m
A = area- 5 hectares
Np = number of plants -2,000
Answer;
Given; Avocado
L = length of the area-15
W = width of the area-8
S2 = square of planting distance-8m
A = area- 3 hectares
Np = number of plants -1,200
Answer;
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