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Perfume Chemistry

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Perfume Chemistry

Why is perfume so diluted? It's not that manufacturers are stingy.


The reason is actually aesthetic: Lots of alcohol spreads out the
smells so that you can distinguish them. In a perfume oil, you'd
encounter a jumble of smells. Smelling it would be like hearing an
orchestra play all the notes in a symphony at once. You might
register that you're smelling something sweet, but not that it's
mango, followed by jasmine, finished with cherry. Its diluted nature
makes the smell enjoyable.
In fact, most perfumes are engineered to have a three-part smell,
which unfolds after you apply it to your skin. You smell top
notes within the first 15 minutes of applying. These chemicals first
evaporate off your skin. Designers often put weird, unpleasant or
spicy smells in this phase so that they interest you but don't hang
around long enough to offend. Heart notes appear after 3 to 4
hours. The chemicals creating these smells evaporate more slowly
from your skin. They're probably what you remember about the
perfume; if it's a floral perfume, flowery smells go here. Base
notes stick stubbornly to your skin. You smell them within 5 to 8
hours of application [source: Sell]. Musky, watery, mossy and
woody chemicals often go in the base [source: Calkin]. The
word note is just perfume jargon for an individual smell.
Knowing that perfumes smell by evaporating, you can take better
care in applying them. When applying, spread the perfume, but
don't rub it in vigorously, because the heat you create will
evaporate the top notes and weaken the overall smell.
Chemical reactions can also morph your perfume on the shelf.
Visible light has enough energy to bust the bonds in fragrance
molecules, and bright sun will singe your perfume in as little as a
week [source: Turin and Sanchez]. Air can also corrode your
fragrance by oxidation -- the same process that turns uncorked
wine into vinegar. Storing your perfume at room temperature, in
the dark and in a spray bottle preserves it well. Then, it will have a
shelf life of at least two years [source: Sell].
But what about your chemistry? Your temperature and oiliness
seem most important. The top notes will evaporate faster from
warm and dry skin than cool and oily skin. Otherwise, by the time
the heart notes emerge, the perfume smells the same on everyone
[source: Turin and Sanchez].
You have learned about your perfume's structure and behavior.
You have spread, but not rubbed vigorously. Next, we'll look at
how the fragrance industry produces the stuff.

Source: http://science.howstuffworks.com/perfume2.htm

Accessed: 29/5/2017

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