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Starting Plants Indoors from Seed

Fact Sheet
Becky Sideman, UNH Cooperative Extension Professor & Specialist 

Introduction
Gardeners can grow most annuals, biennials, and many herbaceous
perennials from seed. Sowing seed is less expensive than buying
established plants and requires little equipment. Vigorous plants
started indoors flower sooner than those started outdoors. Sowing
seed also allows gardeners to grow varieties that may not be available
at local greenhouses or garden centers.

Seeds
To raise quality plants, start with good quality seeds from a reliable
seed supplier. Choose varieties that are adapted to your area.
Many new vegetable and flower varieties are hybrids, meaning that
they are the result of hand-pollinating two different parent varieties. Starting your own seed can save you money, and it
Hybrid varieties often have more vigor and uniformity, and they may also allows you to grow varieties that may not be
available for purchase as transplants.
cost more than open-pollinated varieties. Some hybrids offer specific
disease resistance or other unique cultural characteristics.
Although some seeds will keep for several years if stored properly,
we suggest buying only enough seeds for the current year’s use. Seed
suppliers perform germination tests to determine the viability of seeds
before sale. Printing on the seed packet usually indicates the date of
the germination test and percentage of seed that germinated, as well
as any chemical seed treatments that may have been applied, and
other essential information.
If you get your seeds well in advance of the actual planting date or
are attempting to store surplus seeds, keep them in a cool, dry place.
Laminated foil packets help ensure dry storage. Paper packets are best
kept in tightly closed jars or containers and maintained around 40°F
with low humidity.
Some gardeners save seeds from their own gardens; however, such
seeds may be the result of random pollination by insects or other
natural agents and may not produce plants like the parent plants.
Those interested in saving seeds should stick with open-pollinated Some seeds will successfully germinate after
storage for one or more years; others, such as these
varieties, because seed saved from hybrids does not “breed true”; the parsnip seeds, have a very short viable life and
next generation won’t look exactly like the original variety. should be purchased new each year.
 Factors Affecting Germination
A seed sprouts only if it is viable and if the environment is conducive for
germination. Water, oxygen, light, and heat can all affect germination.

Water: The first step in the germination process is absorption of water.

A continuous supply of moisture without fluctuation in the growing
medium is important to ensure germination.
Light: Light stimulates or inhibits the germination of some seeds. Some
crops, including ageratum, begonia, browallia, impatiens, lettuce, and
petunia require light to help them germinate. Others, such as calendula,
centaurea, annual phlox, verbena and vinca germinate best in the dark.
Other plants do not have specific light requirements.
Seed catalogs and packets generally indicate light requirements. When
sowing light-requiring seeds, do not bury them. If they are covered at
all, cover them lightly with fine peat moss or fine vermiculite to allow
When sowing light-requiring seeds, do some light to reach the seeds. Provide supplemental light by suspending
not bury them. Provide supplemental
light by suspending fluorescent lights fluorescent lights six to 12 inches above the seeds for 18 hours per day.
six to 12 inches above the seeds for 18
hours per day. Oxygen: All viable seeds breathe. Their respiration rate increases dra-
matically during germination; therefore, the growing medium must
be loose and well-aerated. If the oxygen supply during germination is
limited or reduced (for example, in water-saturated media), germination
can be severely retarded or inhibited.
Heat: Most seeds will germinate over a wide range of temperatures, but
will have optimum temperatures for germination. For example, tomato
seeds will germinate at temperatures between 50°F and 95°F, but the
optimum temperature is around 80°F. Generally, a range of 65° to 75°F
is best for most plants. This often means the germination flats may have
to be placed in special chambers or on radiators, heating cables, or
heating mats to maintain ideal temperatures.

Media for Starting Seeds

A good germinating medium should be fine and uniform, well-aerated
and loose. It should be free of insects, disease organisms, and weed
seeds. It should also have low fertility and be capable of holding and
moving moisture by capillary action.
Artificial soil-less mixes offer all these desired qualities. The basic
ingredients of such mixes are sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite,
both of which are generally free of diseases, weed seeds and insects.
The individual ingredients are also readily available, easy to handle,
lightweight and produce uniform plant growth. You can make your
own mix using this recipe: 4 quarts of shredded sphagnum peat moss,
4 quarts of fine-grade vermiculite, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate
(optional), and 2 tablespoons of ground limestone. These mixes have
The basic ingredients of artificial soil-
less mixes are sphagnum peat moss
little fertility so seedlings must be watered with a diluted fertilizer
(left) and vermiculite (right). solution soon after they emerge.

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Containers
Garden centers sell many different types of wooden or plastic flats,
trays, cell-packs, and pots for starting seeds. You can also make your
own seed-starting containers by recycling plastic food containers or the
bottoms of milk cartons. Make sure to punch or drill a series of holes in
the bottom of each planting container to ensure proper drainage.
Garden centers also sell many types of peat pellets and peat or fiber-based
pots or blocks, where the container itself becomes part of the growing
medium. These can reduce the risk of root injury when transplanting, and Many types of containers are available
may be useful for those plants with delicate root systems. to home gardeners.

Seeding
The proper time for sowing seeds depends upon when plants may
safely be transplanted outdoors in your area. This period may range
from four to 12 weeks before transplanting, depending upon the
speed of germination, the rate of growth, and the cultural conditions
provided. See Timing Vegetable Transplants for basic guidelines on
when to seed vegetable transplants in New Hampshire. A common
mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold
seedlings back under poor light or temperature conditions. This
results in tall, weak, and often stressed plants which do not perform
These peat pellets are an alternative
well in the garden. growing media. Simply add warm water
After selecting your planting container and moistening the growing to them, let them expand, and then sow
a seed in their middle.
medium you have chosen, fill the container to within 3/4 inch from the
top with the medium. For very small seeds, top off the medium with at
least 1/4 inch of a fine, screened mix or a layer of vermiculite.
Firm the medium with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a
uniform, flat surface. If you are sowing in trays or flats, for medium
to large seeds, make furrows about one to two inches apart and 1/8 to
1/4 of an inch deep across the surface of the container. Sowing in rows
provides better light and air movement to help prevent fungal diseases,
and they are also easier to label and to handle at transplanting time A common mistake is to sow
than those that were broadcast. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the seeds too early and then
the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed as you move it along the attempt to hold seedlings
row. Lightly cover the seeds with dry vermiculite or sifted medium.
back under poor light or
Most seeds should be planted at a depth of about twice their diameter.
temperature conditions. This
Do not cover extremely tiny seed such as petunia, begonia, and results in tall, weak and often
snapdragon; simply press them into the medium or water them in with stressed plants which do not
a fine mist spray. perform well in the garden.
Larger seeds are frequently sown into some sort of a small container or cell
pack, two or three to a unit, eliminating the need for early transplanting.
Thin after germination, allowing the strongest seedling to grow.

Watering
After sowing seeds, wet the planting mix, ideally by using a fine mist
spray. Avoid splashing or excessive flooding which might displace small
seeds. Use care when hand-watering newly-planted seed trays to prevent

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 overwatering or drying out. Uniform moisture is the key to good
D i d Yo u K n o w ? germination and growth.
One way to achieve consistent moisture during germination is to use
Transplant young seedlings a clear plastic bag into which the whole flat or pot is slipped after the
while they are quite small. initial watering. Some seedling trays come with clear plastic dome lids
The ideal time to transplant for this purpose, and panes of glass would also work. If you use this
is when the first true approach, keep the plastic at least 1 1/2 inches from the soil and keep
leaves appear between the trays out of direct sunlight or the temperature may rise to the point
the cotyledons, which are where the seeds will be killed. Be sure to remove the cover as soon as the
sometimes called “seed” first seedling leaves appear.
leaves.
Germinating and Establishing Seedlings
After germination, seedlings must receive bright light. Insufficient light
causes seedlings to “stretch”, or elongate, as they search for light. In
general, more light is better. Sunlight intensity increases throughout the
spring; the later in the spring, the more light your seedlings will receive.
If a large, bright, south-facing window is not available, place the
seedlings under a fluorescent light. “Shop lights” suspended from chains
screwed into the ceiling are an inexpensive solution. Use two 40-watt,
cool white or full-spectrum fluorescent tubes. Position the plants six
inches from the tubes and keep the lights on about 16 hours each day.
Raise the lights as the seedlings grow.

Shop lights help provide proper

After seedlings are well-established, move the flats to a light, airy, cooler
lighting to seedlings. location, say at a 55° to 60°F at night and 65° to 70°F in the daytime.
This will prevent soft, leggy growth.

Transplanting and Handling

If the plants have not been seeded in individualized containers they
must be transplanted to give them proper growing space. One of the
most common mistakes made by plant growers is leaving the seedlings
in the seed flat too long so they get stunted or too tall and “leggy.”
Transplant young seedlings while they are quite small. The ideal time to
transplant is when the first true leaves appear between the cotyledons,
which are sometimes called “seed” leaves.
To transplant, carefully dig up the small plants with a knife or wooden
pot ladle. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual
plants. Gently ease them apart in small groups this will make it easier
to separate individual plants. Avoid tearing roots in the process. Handle
small seedlings by their leaves, not their delicate stems. Punch a hole in
the medium into which the seedling will be put at the same depth it was
growing in the seed flat. Small plants or slow growers may be placed one
inch apart and rapid-growing, large seedlings about two inches apart.
After planting, firm the soil and water gently. Protect newly transplanted
seedlings from excessive amounts of direct sunlight or direct heat
sources for a few days after transplanting.

Handle small seedlings by their leaves,

After transplanting, seedlings need nutrients. Some commercial soil-
not their delicate stems. less mixes have fertilizer already added. Many compost-based potting

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mixes often provide enough fertility to keep seedlings healthy until
seedling root systems fill the pot entirely, at which point they need to be
repotted in a larger pot with more media. If you are using a mix without
fertilizers, you will need to add supplemental nutrients. To fertilize,
use a soluble house plant fertilizer with the dilution recommended by
the manufacturer weekly after the seedlings germinate. Remember that
young seedlings are easily damaged by too much fertilizer, especially if
they are under any moisture stress.
Ideally, seedlings should be dark green and sturdy. Symptoms of
nutrient deficiencies include pale yellow foliage, purpling of leaves that
are not supposed to be purple, and/or bright yellow-green veins. These These little pepper seedlings were just
transplanted; the first two true leaves
signs are an indication that you should use a higher rate of fertilizer or
are visible between the two cotyledons.
fertilize more frequently.
Most plants transplant well, though some require very careful handling
because of delicate root systems. Some plants that should never be
transplanted are root crops (carrots, parsnips) whose taproot will be
damaged by transplanting. These are generally directly seeded outdoors.

Hardening Plants
Hardening is the process of acclimating plants so that they can
withstand the changes in environmental conditions that occur when
they are moved from a protected environment (greenhouse or home)
to the cold-frame, the field, or the garden. The outdoor environment,
especially early in the season, presents several stresses for plants:
wind, temperature extremes, lower relative humidity, and drastic
changes in watering practices and light quality compared to what they
experienced as seedlings. These stresses may stunt plants or even kill
them. Hardening exposes plants to these stresses gradually, rather than These tomato seedlings are showing
suddenly. Gradual exposure causes an accumulation of carbohydrates signs of nitrogen and phosphorus
deficiency, and should receive a higher
and a thickening of cell walls, strengthening plants. rate of fertilizer than they have been
Start hardening plants one to two weeks before planting in the garden. getting.
If possible, plants should be moved to a 45° to 50°F temperature indoors
or outdoors in a shady location. A ventilated cold-frame or a shelter
covered with shadecloth would work well for this purpose. When first
put outdoors, keep plants in the shade but gradually move them into
sunlight for short periods each day, gradually increasing the length of
exposure. Don’t put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when
temperatures are below 45°F. Reduce the frequency of watering to slow Hardening is the process of
growth but don’t allow plants to wilt. Even cold-hardy plants will be acclimating plants so that they
hurt if exposed to freezing temperatures before they are hardened. After can withstand the changes
proper hardening, however, they can be planted outdoors and light in environmental conditions
frosts will not damage them. that occur when they are
moved from a protected
Seeds that Are Difficult to Germinate environment (greenhouse or
Seed from some plants can have one or more types of dormancy which home) to the cold-frame, the
must be overcome before they will germinate. This is especially common field or the garden.
for woody ornamental and native perennial plants. One of the following
treatments may be required to promote germination for seeds with dormancy.

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Stratification:
To stratify seeds, first soak them overnight in water. Drain the seeds and place in moist sand or peat. Alternatively,
place the seeds between moistened (but not soaking wet) paper towels, and wrap in plastic wrap. Some seeds
will require storage for varying periods at warm temperatures (50° to 80°F), cool temperatures (34° to 50°F),
or some combination of the two. These same conditions can often be obtained under natural conditions by the
proper timing of outdoor planting. Warm, moist conditions are provided by summer planting while cool, moist
conditions are provided by fall planting. Treatment length varies with the type of seed from one to six or more
months.

Scarification:
Some seeds remain dormant only because they cannot absorb water or because oxygen and other gases are
excluded from the inner parts of the seed. Various techniques can be used to disrupt, or scarify, the seed coat
to allow penetration of water and exchange of gases. Scarification methods include filing or abrasion with
sandpaper, etc., or chemical erosion of the seed coat with concentrated sulfuric acid. Use such devices carefully
to avoid seed damage or injury to the applicator. Plant seeds immediately after treatment.
Some specialty seed suppliers offer seed that has already been treated or processed for you. Additional
information on germination requirements for specific plants can be found in the following resources, as well as
many other plant propagation textbooks and references.
• Harvested Seed: Germination Requirements, Royal Horticultural Society
• Chapter 8. Seed Pretreatment, in A Guide to Forest Seed Handling, FAO 1985
About the Author
Dr. Becky Sideman is an
Extension Professor in the Dept.
of Biological Sciences at UNH,
and is the state specialist for
Original fact sheet by Charles H. Williams, UNH Extension Sustainable Horticulture for
Ornamentals Specialist UNH Cooperative Extension.
Revised by Becky Sideman, UNH Extension Professor & Specialist, Her program emphasizes
April 2017 vegetable and berry crop
production including season
Reformatted by Marie-Eve Jacques, April 2017 extension for Northern New
England.

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