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Panthenol

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Technical Information

June 2006 Supersedes issue dated March 2006 MEMC 050504e-04/Page 1 of 14

Panthenol

D-Panthenol USP, D-Panthenol 50 P, D-Panthenol 75 W, DL-Panthenol 50 W


Active ingredient for further processing in the cosmetics industry. Improves the appearance of skin and hair.

= Registered trademark of BASF Aktiengesellschaft

Hair Care Skin Care Oral Care

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Panthenol

Structural formula


Synomyms Molecular formula Molar mass Grades available Panthenol, pantothenyl alcohol, provitmain B5 , dexpanthenol C9H19O4N 205.3 g/mol D-Panthenol USP D-Panthenol 50 P D-Panthenol 75 W DL-Panthenol 50 W

INCI name

D-Panthenol USP Panthenol

D-Panthenol 50 P Panthenol (and) Propylene Glycol

D-Panthenol 75 W Panthenol (and) Water

DL-Panthenol 50 W Panthenol (and) Water

CAS-No.

81-13-0 (DPanthenol)

81-13-0 (D-Panthenol), 57-55-6 (Propylene glycol)

81-13-0 (D-Panthenol), 7732-18-5 (Water)

16485-10-2 (DL-Panthenol), 7732-18-5 (Water)

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Panthenol

Specification

D-Panthenol USP Parameter Identification Assay Aminopropanol Organic volatile impurities Appearance Refractive Index Specific Rotation Water Content Residue on Ignition

Specification Limits Conforms Minimum 98.0% Not more than 102.0% Not more than 1.0% Conforms Clear, viscous liquid Min. 1.495, max. 1.502 Min. +29.0, max.+31.5 Max. 1.0% Not more than 0.1%

D-Panthenol 50 P Parameter Identification Assay Aminopropanol Appearance

Specification Limits Conforms Minimum 50% Maximum 55% Maximum 0.5% Clear liquid

D-Panthenol 75 W Parameter Identification Assay Aminopropanol Heavy Metals pH-value Appearance Residue on Ignition

Specification Limits Conforms Minimum 75% Maximum 1.0% Maximum 10 ppm 5.5 to 7.0 Clear liquid Maximum 0.3%

DL-Panthenol 50 W Parameter Identification Assay Aminopropanol Heavy Metals Appearance pH-value Residue on Ignition

Specification Limits Conforms Minimum 50% Maximum 2.0% Maximum 20 ppm Clear liquid 4.0 to 7.5 Maximum 0.5%

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Panthenol

Applications

Panthenol is an active ingredient for sophisticated cosmetic skin care and hair care products. It improves the appearance of skin, hair and nails. D-Panthenol is the provitamin of D-Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5). D-Pantothenic acid plays a key role in the human intermediary metabolism. It is a part of the Coenzym A. Deficiency of Vitamin B5 results in many dermatological disorder. Coenzym A is important for: Role in the skin: Role in the hair: Role in nail care: improves hydration imparts flexibility long lasting moisturizer prevents hair damage thickens hair improves luster and sheen deep penetrating moisturizer stimulates epithelisation has wound healing effect has an anti-inflammatory effect structure and function of living tissue resistance of the mucous membrane growth and pigmentation of hair

Only the D-Panthenol is the provitamin of D-Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), not the L-Panthenol. The human body converts D-Panthenol to Vitamin B5, which is D-Panthotenic acid. DL-Panthenol is a lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. Due to the fact that only D-Panthenol is converted to Vitamin B5 and not LPanthenol, the racemic DL-Panthenol has only half of the physiological activity of the D-Panthenol. These include stimulation of epithelisation, wound healing effect and anti-inflammatory effect. But for all the none physiological activities like moisturizer effect, improvement of hair structure, giving luster and sheen to the hair D- and DL-Panthenol are equally active. The D-Panthenol USP and 50 P are also applied in the pharmaceutical industry. The main areas of pharmaceutical application are syrups, drops, ampoules, creams, gels and capsules. In liquid multi-vitamin and Vitamin B complex preparations D-Panthenol is nearly always preferred to the D-Pantothenates because it is usually considerably more stable at the pH values below 5 usually employed in these preparations. Monographs The D-Panthenol USP meets the requirements of the monographs of USP.

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Panthenol

Recommended concentrations Skin care (D-Panthenol) Face creams Body lotions Hand cream Lipsticks After shave lotion Anti-perspirant Sun protection lotion After sun lotion Soap and bath preparations Hair care (D-Panthenol or DL-Panthenol) Shampoo Hair spray Styling mousse Conditioner (rinse-off) Conditioner (leave-on) Nail care (D-Panthenol or DL-Panthenol)

Panthenol, % 0.5 - 5.0 0.5 - 5.0 0.5 - 2.0 0.5 - 3.0 1.5 1.0 5.0 0.5 - 1.0 1.0 - 5.0 1.0 - 5.0 0.5 - 3.0 0.1 - 5.0 0.1 - 5.0 0.1 - 0.5 0.1 - 0.5 0.5 - 5.0 0.1 - 0.5 1.0

For skin care products the use of D-Panthenol is recommended. For hair care and nail care products both D- and DL-Panthenol can be used. Solubility Panthenol is readily miscible with water, ethanol, methanol and propylene glycol. It is insoluble in oils and fats. Panthenol can easily be incorporated in the water phase of cosmetic formulations. The pure Panthenol (D-Panthenol USP) is highly hygroscopic. The Panthenol solutions (D-Panthenol 50 P, D-Panthenol 75 W and DL-Panthenol 50 W) are very easy to handle, because they have a low viscosity. D-Panthenol USP Heat to reduce the viscosity D-Panthenol 50 P Easy to pump D-Panthenol 75 W Easy to pump DL-Panthenol 50 W Easy to pump

Technical properties and handling

Handling

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Panthenol

Approval status

Panthenol has EINECS Numbers. The products have been approved for sale in Europe, Japan and the USA. D-Panthenol USP EINECS-No. 201-327-3 (D-Panthenol) D-Panthenol 50 P 201-327-3 (D-Panthenol), 200-338-0 (Propylene glycol) D-Panthenol 75 W 201-327-3 (D-Panthenol) DL-Panthenol 50 W 240-540-6 (DL-Panthenol)

Efficacy

The trend in modern cosmetology is towards formulas containing substances with proven therapeutic efficacy. The effects of topically applied Panthenol have been confirmed in a large number of studies. D-Panthenol is an active, biologically stable form of Pantothenic acid, which is Vitamin B5. It plays a fundamental role in the metabolism of all cells. Topically applied Panthenol is absorbed by the skin and transformed into Pantothenic acid (G. Stttgen, H. Krause, Arch. Klin. and Exp. Dermat, 209, 578-82 (1960)). An ointment with Panthenol prevents erythema due to UV light (R. Lange, Med. Klin. 52,1379 (1957); H. Tronnier et al, Z. Haut- und Geschlechtskrankheiten 21, 224-32 (1956)). A cream with 5% Panthenol accelerates the healing of superficial wounds by 30% (H. Weiser, G. Erlemann, Parfmerie and Kosmetik, 68, 425-428 (1987)). A cream with Panthenol regularly applied to the skin improves the moisture content of dry skin significantly (E. Wagner, Panthenol und Phytantriol in der Kosmetik, Parfmerie und Kosmetik, 75, 260-267 (1994)). A D-Panthenol ointment protects the lips against solar herpes (H. Stellmann, rztl. Praxis 7, 16 (1955)). A shampoo with 0.5% Panthenol was diluted 1:10 with water and applied to the hair. A deposit of Panthenol up to 36.4 g/g hair after one cycle and up to 115.7 g/g hair after five cycles of treatment was determined. The penetration of Panthenol in hair was determined in the same way. After one cycle up to 7.5 g/g hair and after five cycles up to 21.5 g/g hair were measured (E.Wagner, Panthenol und Phytantriol in der Kosmetik, Parfmerie und Kosmetik, 75, 260-267 (1994)). A rinse-off conditioner with 0.5% Panthenol applied once to the hair and rinsed off with water has a moisturizing effect on the hair for over 180 minutes. With water there is an effect for only 10 minutes (G.Erlemann, R.Merkle, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Vitamin E und Vitamin A in der Kosmetik, SFW, 117, 379-384 (1991)). The high water content prevents damage to the hair caused by combing, brushing, blow-drying and perming.

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Panthenol

Typical formulations

Skin care In all formulations D-Panthenol USP can be replaced with D-Panthenol 75 W or D-Panthenol 50 P. After shave balm % A 0.25 Ingredients Pemulen TR-1 Supplier INCI name (6) (11) (1) (1) (1) (1) (20) (28) (20) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Tocopheryl Acetate Bisabolol Alcohol

No. 07/00030

10.00 Miglyol 812 1.50 0.10 B 1.00 1.00 5.00 0.05 C 0.08 Vitamin E Acetate Bisabolol nat. Cremophor CO 410 D-Panthenol USP Glycerin 87% Tylose H 4000 Sodium Hydroxide

15.00 Ethanol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Panthenol Glycerin Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Aqua Sodium Hydroxide

66.02 Water dem.

Production:

Mix the components of phase A. Allow phase B to swell and stir it into phase A whilst homogenizing. Neutralize with phase C and homogenize again. No. 54/00017 Ingredients Cremophor WO 7 Bees Wax 3044 PH Eucerinum Anhydricum TeCero-Wax 1030 K Aluminum Stearate Magnesium Stearate Luvitol EHO Bisabolol nat. 1,2-Propylene Glycol Care D-Panthenol USP Preservative Aqua Perfume Heat phases A and B separately to about 85C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to 40C, add phase C and homogenize again. Viscosity: approx. 25 000 mPas

Baby Cream % A 6.00 2.00 1.00 2.00 0.50 0.50 8.00 0.20 B 7.00 4.00 q.s. C q.s. Supplier INCI name (1) (73) (55) (73) (10) (10) (1) (1) (1) (1) (20)

PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Petrolatum Bees Wax

10.00 Vaseline

Microcrystalline Wax Aluminum Stearate Magnesium Stearate Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Bisabolol Propylene Glycol Panthenol Zinc Oxide

10.00 Zinc Oxide 48.80 Water, dem.

Production:

Properties:

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Panthenol

Vitamin Body Lotion % A 2.00 2.00 8.00 7.00 3.00 1.00 0.50 0.40 B 4.00 3.00 q.s. 5.90 C D 1.20 2.00 q.s. Production: Ingredients Cremophor A 6 Cremophor A 25 Paraffin Oil Luvitol EHO Imwitor 960 K Lanette O Abil 350 Phytantriol D-Panthenol 50 P 1,2-Propylene Glycol Care Preservative Water, dem. Luvigel EM

No. 62/00078 Supplier INCI name (1) (1) (1) (11) (27) (44) (1) (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol Ceteareth-25 Mineral Oil Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Glyceryl Stearate SE Cetearyl Alcohol Dimethicone Phytantriol Panthenol, Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol

Aqua (1) (1) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylates Crosspolymer Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E Acetate Perfume

Heat phases A and B separately to about 80C. Stir phase B into phase A whilst homogenizing. Stir phase C and homogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phase D and homogenize again. Viscosity: approx. 18000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ pH value: approx. 6.0 No. 50/00062 Supplier INCI name (6) (1) (1) (1) (1) (20) (1) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Bisabolol Tocopheryl Acetate Panthenol Alcohol Glycerin Aqua dem. Triethanolamine

Properties:

After Sun Lotion % A 0.40 Ingredients Carbopol 1342

15.00 Luvitol EHO 0.20 q.s. 1.00 B 1.00 3.00 C 0.20 Bisabolol rac. Perfume Vitamin E Acetate D-Panthenol USP Glycerin 87% Triethanolamine Care

15.00 Ethanol 96% 64.20 Water, dem.

Production:

Mix the components of phase A. Dissolve phase B and stir into phase A whilst homogenizing. Neutralise with phase C and homogenize again. approx. 7500 mPas Haake Viscotester VT-02 pH value: approx. 6 Viscosity:

Properties:

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Panthenol

Sun protection lotion, O/W % A 2.00 2.00 3.00 0.20 2.00 3.00 0.50 B 2.00 2.00 3.00 q.s. C D E 0.30 0.40 1.00 0.20 q.s.
Production:

No. 53/00135 Supplier INCI name (1) (1) (11) (44) (1) (1) (25) (1) (1) (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol Ceteareth-25 Glyceryl Stearate SE Dimethicone Benzophenone-3 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Panthenol, Propylene Glycol PEG-25 PABA Propylene Glycol

Ingredients Cremophor A 6 Cremophor A 25 Imwitor 960 K Abil 350 Uvinul M 40 Uvinul MC 80 Amphisol K D-Panthenol 50 P Uvinul P 25 1,2 Propylene Glycol Care Preservative

66.40 Water, dem. Carbopol 934 Triethanolamine Care Vitamin E Acetate DL-AlphaTocopherol Perfume (6) (11) (1) (1) (1) 12.00 Miglyol 812

Aqua Carbomer Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Triethanolamine Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol

Heat phases A and B separately to approx. 80C. Stir phase B into phase A whilst homogenizing and continue homogenizing for a while. Stir in phase C, neutralize with phase D and homogenize again. Cool to about 40C, add phase E and homogenize again. Viscosity: approx. 2000 mPas pH value: approx. 7.0

Properties:

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Panthenol

Hair care In all the formulations D-Panthenol can be replaced with DL-Panthenol 50 W. Hair Setting Gel Super Hold with Luviskol VA 64 W % A B C 0.50 0.67 Ingredients Carbopol 940 Triethanolamine Care Cremophor CO 40 Ethanol 96 % Perfume (1) (1) VP/VA Copolymer Panthenol, Propylene Glycol D-Panthenol 50 P Preservative Allow phase A to swell and neutralize with phase B. Solubilize phase C. Weigh phase D into phase C and dissolve clearly. Stir phase C+D into phase A+B. Viscosity: approx. 22000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ pH value: approx. 6.9 No. 03/00117 Ingredients Cremophor A 6 Cremophor A 25 Lanette O Luvitol EHO Phytantriol Luviquat Care 1,2-Propylene Glycol Care DL-Panthenol 50 W Preservative Aqua (54) Hydrolyzed Silk Cosi Silk Soluble Perfume Preservative Heat phases A and B separately to about 80C. Stir phase B into phase A whilst homogenizing and continue homogenizing for a while. Cool to about 40C, add phase C and homogenize again. Viscosity: approx. 13 200 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ pH value: approx. 6.4

No. 04/00076

Supplier INCI name (6) (1) Carbomer Aqua Triethanolamine Aqua (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Alcohol

50.00 Water, dem.

30.33 Water, dem. 1.00 5.00 0.10

12.00 Luviskol VA 64 W 0.40 q.s.

Production:

Properties:

Conditioner % A 2.00 1.00 6.00 6.00 0.30 B 7.70 5.00 2.00 q.s. C 2.00 q.s. q.s. Production: Supplier INCI name (1) (1) (27) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1)

Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol Ceteareth-25 Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Phytantriol Polyquaternium-44 Propylene Glycol Panthenol, Aqua

68.00 Water, dem.

Properties:

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Panthenol

Conditioner Shampoo % 40.00 5.00 5.00 3.00 0.50 q.s. q.s. q.s. 2.00 44.50 Ingredients Texapon NSO Plantacare 2000 Tego Betain L 7 Luviquat Care D-Panthenol USP Perfume Preservative Citric Acid Sodium Chloride Water, dem. (20) (20) Citric Acid Sodium Chloride Aqua

No. 08/00579 Supplier INCI name (27) (27) (44) (1) (1) Sodium Laureth Sulfate Decyl Glucoside Cocamidopropyl Betaine Polyquaternium-44 Panthenol

Production:

Weigh out the components and dissolve them clearly. Adjust the pH value with citric acid to approx. 6-7. Viscosity: pH value: approx. 2500 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ approx 6.5

Properties:

Clear shampoo for fine hair % A 3.00 5.00 q.s. B 3.00 0.50 q.s. q.s. 1.00 2.00 Production: Ingredients Amphotensid B 5 Plantacare 2000 Perfume Aqua (1) (1) (20) (47) (20) Polyquaternium-44 Panthenol Citric Acid Laureth-3 Sodium Chloride Luviquat Care

No. 08/00594 Supplier INCI name (27) (159) (27) Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Decyl Glucoside

12.00 Texapon N 70

73.50 Water dem. D-Panthenol USP Preservative Citric Acid Rewopal LA 3 Sodium Chloride

Weigh out the components of phase A and mix them. Add the components of phase B one after another and dissolve them clearly. Adjust the pH value to about 5-6. Viscosity: 3890 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+ pH value: 6.0

Properties:

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Panthenol

Suppliers

1.

BASF Aktiengesellschaft 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany Tel.: +49 (621) 60-0 Telefax +40 (621) 60-42525 Noveon Inc. 9911 Brecksville Road, Cleveland OH 44141-3247, USA Tel. 1 216 447-5000

6.

10. Brlocher GmbH, Freisinger Strae 1, 85716 Unterschleiheim, Germany Tel.: +49 (89) 14373-0 Telefax +49 (89) 14373-312 11. Sasol Germany GmbH Paul Baumann-Strasse 1, D-45764 Marl, Germany Phone: 49 2365 49-4863 Fax: 49 2365 49-6935 20. Merck KGaA Frankfurter Strae 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany Tel.: +49 (6151) 72-0 Telefax +49 (6151) 72-2000 or +49 (6151) 72-3110 25. Givaudan S.A. 5 chemin de la Parfumerie, 1214 Vernier-Geneve, Switzerland Tel.: +41 (22) 780-9111 Telefax +41 (22) 780-9595 27. Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Care Chemicals Henkelstrae 67, 40191 Dsseldorf or P.O. 13064, 40551 Dsseldorf, Germany Tel.: +49 (211) 7940-0 or 7940-2298 Telefax +49 (211) 798-2016 28. Clariant GmbH - Functional Chemicals Div, Personal Care, 65926 Frankfurt/Main Tel: +49 (69) 305 44291 Telefax +49 (69) 305 89129 44. Degussa Care Specialities 710 South 6th Street, Hopewell VA 23860, USA Tel. 1 800 46-1890 German adress: Goldschmidtstrae 100, 45127 Essen, Germany Tel. 0201 173-0 47. Witco Corporation One American Way, Greenwich, CT 06831, USA Tel.: +1 (203) 552-3373 Telefax +1 (203) 552-2893 Witco Surfactants GmbH Industriegebiet West, Postfach 11 60, 36392 Steinau an der Strae Tel.: +49 (6663) 540 Telefax +49 (6663) 54129 54. Cosnaderm Chemische Rohstoffe GmbH Siemensstr. 12, 68526 Ladenburg Tel.: +49 (6203) 92730 Telefax +49 (6203) 9273-20 or +49 (6203) 9273-23 55. Beiersdorf AG, Unnastrae 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany Tel.: +49 (40) 569-1 Telefax +49 (40) 5693434

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Panthenol

56. Angus Chemical Company., 1500 E. Lake Cook Road, IL 60089, Buffalo Grove, USA Tel.: +1 (847) 215-8600 Telefax +1 (847) 215-8626 Angus Chemie GmbH Huyssenallee, 45128 Essen Tel.: +49 (201) 81093-0 Telefax +49 (201) 81093-15 73. Thomas C., Tromm GmbH, Feuerstr. 7-17, 50735 Kln (Weidenpesch), Germany Tel.: +49 (221) 974552-0 Telefax +49 (221) 974552-30 159. Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co. Chemische Fabriken, Max-Schwarz-Str. 3-5, 56112 Lahnstein/Rh., Germany Tel.: +49 (2621) 12-0 Telefax +49 (2621) 12407 Stability and Storage Panthenol is stable at room temperature. It is stable against light and air but not heat. Heat (above 70C) can cause racemization to D-Panthenol and cleavage to aminopropanol and pantolacton for D- and DL-Panthenol. The recommended pH-value for Panthenol in cosmetic formulations is 4-8. The storage stabilities of the different Panthenol grades differ. If it is stored in the original sealed containers at 15 - 25C it has at least the following shelf life: D-Panthenol USP Shelf life 36 months D-Panthenol 50 P 36 months D-Panthenol 75 W 12 months DL-Panthenol 50 W 12 months

Safety Data Sheet

Safety Data Sheets are available for all the Panthenol grades. They contain the main results of the toxicological studies . D- and DL-Panthenol are non-toxic and non-irritant. While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, OR THAT DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE. Further, you expressly understand and agree that the descriptions, design, data and information furnished by BASF hereunder are given gratis and BASF assumes no obligation or liability for the description, designs, data and information given or results obtained, all such being given and accepted at your risk. June 2006

Note

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Panthenol

BASF Aktiengesellschaft Fine Chemicals Division - Cosmetic Solutions - 67117 Limburgerhof - www.cosmetics.basf.com

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