VETERINARY SUPPORT ASSISTANT

DIPLOMA COURSE

ASSIGNMENT FIVE

HANDLING ANIMALS

Overview and learning outcomes

Overview

• Approaching an animal
• Typical restraints and handling equipment
• Behaviour
• Correct dog and cat handling methods
• Exotic handling

Outcomes

• Understand why it is important to approach and handle an animal safely

• Identify the different restraints and handling equipment used and understand how they are
used

• Know the importance of understanding animals’ behaviour when they are being or about to
be handled

• Understand how to correctly handle dogs and cat for basic veterinary procedures

• Learn how to correctly handle exotic pets.

APPROACHING AN ANIMAL

• Always assess the patient first

• Ask the client to describe the animal’s normal behaviour before approaching
• Address whether the owner is going to help the situation or hinder it
Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 1
The very important thing to keep in mind when handling any kind of animal is that less restraint is
often the best kind of restraint. This does not mean that you’re not in control, just that you use the
least restraint necessary to maintain control of the animal. Every situation and animal are very
different, and restraining them successfully will require many different methods. You will just need
to find out through experience which method works best in which situations.

Approaching a non-emergency animal

• Take time to gain the animal’s confidence. You can do this by

o Using the animal’s name
o Having a reassuring, calming tone of voice

• Don’t stand over the animal; lower yourself so you are on the animal’s level.

• You should approach animals from the front and avoid their blind spots.

• Avoid high-pitched, excited talk. Yelling or screaming should never be used, as it can cause
the animal to become more fearful or aggressive.

At this point, look for a good response, for example if the animal sniffs your hand or wags its tail.

If the response from the animal is unfavourable, then it may be better to remove the owner, as
animals will often improve their behaviour once the owner has gone.

A word of warning

Sometimes an animal can seem very friendly with the owner, but then become very aggressive when
the owners leave, or if the animal has been placed in a kennel. With this in mind, you always need to
be on your guard; never assume that the animal will be good this time just because it was good last
time you did something with it.

Emergency

Briefly examine the animal and the situation from a distance first; only approach once you are sure
that it is safe to do so.

You need to be aware that the animal might be frightened, in shock or in pain, so your approach
should be slow and calm, while talking softly to the animal and maintaining eye contact. Never
lunge, corner or run to the animal.

When attempting to move any animal you need to think: safety first.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 2

You want to:

• Prevent injury to you, others around you and the animal

• Avoid making the animal’s injury worse
• Prevent any kind of driving accident due to the animal
• Prevent escape of the animal

‘Ambulatory’ means it can walk.

‘Non-ambulatory’ means it can’t walk.

TYPICAL RESTRAINTS AND HANDLING EQUIPMENT

Your hands

These are very effective forms of restraint, because your hands are sensitive to the amount of
pressure that is being placed on the animal and can quickly change position according to the
situation. They can be used for gently stroking a dog or firmly grasping a struggling cat.

Although hands can be the most versatile and useful tool you have, they are also the most vulnerable
to injury, so it is important to recognise when they would be placed in danger or not be appropriate to
use.

Lead and collar

The most common tool used to handle dogs at the vets is a lead and collar.

Always check that the owner has fastened the dog’s collar tight enough before taking the dog away
from the owner. I have seen many a dog slip its collar to escape from the nurse or vet in an attempt to
return to its owner.

A slip lead is highly recommended for restraining dogs, as it is impossible for the dog to slip its
collar. You will find that this normally controls even the largest dog.

Leads can be misused, with disastrous consequences; never drag or strangle an animal with a lead. If
the animal starts to struggle, pull and jerk away from you, pause and let the dog calm down, and then
try again.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 3

Towels

A towel is a very useful tool for almost all pets. A towel can be used to decrease an animal’s level of
excitement or anxiety by covering the head and body, and can help protect from sharp claws, teeth or
beaks. Care must be taken not to suffocate the animal.

Control pole/dog catcher

This is used to safely handle extremely aggressive dogs. Used appropriately by an experienced
person, it is a very effective tool. Inappropriate or unskilled use can cause serious injury to the
animal, and risk to you and others around you.

A dog catcher should always be removed once a muzzle has been placed on the animal.

Cat grabber

This is a very simple but effective means for capturing and controlling cats. It is widely used in
rescue situations where the cat is in a confined space or stuck in a hard-to-reach place. It is
particularly useful for dealing with feral cats, where it reduces the need for manual contact with the
animal.

Again, used appropriately by an experienced person, it is a very effective tool, but used
inappropriately or by an unskilled person, it can cause serious injury to the animal, and risk to you
and others around you.

Nets

The net is a tool that is handy to use on wildlife, fish and birds. It lets you safely handle them and
transfer even the most aggressive small animal.

Muzzles

Muzzles are used when an aggressive or potentially aggressive dog needs be handled. There are
nylon and plastic basket ones available.

A strip of bandage can be used as a temporary muzzle. But remember that a weak or poorly made
muzzle may lead to a false sense of security and thus the possibility of being bitten. A dog will often
try to remove its muzzle, so it is important that it is fitted securely on the animal.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 4

Even with a very securely placed muzzle, you must use the correct handling to prevent injury from a
dog that resists; just because its teeth are controlled doesn’t mean it’s not going to hurt you.

Muzzles designed for cats extend up to cover the eyes, reducing visual stimulation. For some cats
these can be useful for calming them and helping to protect the handler from injury, but from my
experience I have found that they make the cat more agitated.

A muzzled animal should never be left unattended due to the risk of asphyxiation and/or vomiting.

Drugs

For animals that are just too aggressive or stressed to handle safely for basic procedures, sedation
and/or general anaesthesia may be necessary to allow you to handle them.

Pet boxes/Carriers

For smaller dogs, cats and other pets, a pet carrier is a good option.

It must:

• be of a suitable size for the animal, so that it can sit comfortably but not be too big
• be escape-proof
• have adequate ventilation
• have observation windows so you can see the animal

You can put owner-scented material at the bottom of the carrier to help keep the animal calm.

Never leave an animal that is recovering from an anaesthetic unattended in a carrier.

Crush cages

A crush cage, restraint cage or squeeze cage is generally used for sedating cats, with a door that is
the end, and a top opening lid. It has a moveable internal wall that can be eased across gently to hold
the cat against the side of the cage, allowing a vet to inject it. These must be used with great caution
to prevent the cat from being harmed.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 5

Vehicle safety

It is important to remember that in a vehicle accident, an unrestrained animal could be seriously

injured, or injure people in the car. These unrestrained animals can also distract the driver, and be the
cause of an accident. Even animals that are normally very well behaved in the car could get
frightened by something and make a beeline for the driver’s feet or lap. Even following an accident,
an unrestrained animal could escape and be run over or cause another accident.

So, take care and ensure that the animal is safely secured in a seatbelt harness, pet carrier, dog crate,
or behind a dog guard. Never put a carrier in the boot of a saloon car, as the animal could suffocate.

BEHAVIOUR

It’s important to understand what dogs are saying with their bodies so you can predict what the
animals are about to do, or are doing.

To really read animals’ body language takes experience, so wherever you can, watch animals. Look
at their different body parts (ears, tails, eyes, lips, hair, and overall posture). See if you can start to
predict which body stances lead to which actions.

Dogs

Signs of confidence:

• Standing tall
• Tail up
• Tail wagging in a slow sweep
• Ears pricked up or relaxed
• Direct look
• Relaxed
• Smaller pupils

Signs of fear:

• Lowered stance
• Tail down or tucked under
• Tail wagging frantically
• Looking away or turning head away so that whites of the eyes show
• Dilated pupils
• Dogs often bark out of fear in an attempt to keep a distance from the feared thing.
Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 6
Raised hackles can be a sign that a dog is worked up, and it does not necessarily mean they are
aggressive, just that they are on high alert. Some dogs raise hackles more often than others.

Dominant body postures:

• Standing over another dog

• Standing tall
• Placing the dominant dog’s chin or foot over another dog’s shoulders
• Calmly accepting other dogs licking at their lips or staring

Some confident, dominant dogs will roll on their backs, exposing their bellies, in an attempt to
reassure a more submissive dog/person, or to get that other dog/person to play. A dominant dog will
still look you in the eye while on its back.

Submissive body postures:

• Lowered head and body

• Allowing other dogs/people to stand over them
• Licking at other dogs’ lips and corners of the mouth
• Looking away from the other dog/person
• Rolling on its back and craning the head away, while covering with/tucking in their tail.

Play bow (the dog’s invitation to play):

• The dog’s tail and butt is in the air

• The front legs are lowered
• Ears are up and forward
• Mouth is open
• Eyes are relaxed
• Barking

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 7

Signs of aggression:

• Stiff legs and body

• Growling
• Lowered head
• Ears pinned back
• Eyes narrow and fixed
• Lips sometimes drawn back in a snarl
• Hackles up and erect
• Tail straight out
• Intense stares

CATS

Cat talk

Cats use sound mostly to communicate with humans, and much less with other animals.

• Meow
o General signal that a cat wants attention.

• Chirrup
o Is a greeting.

• Purr
o Usually means the cat is happy, but a cat will also purr when it is in pain.

• Hisses and growls

o Are used when a cat is threatened and challenged. This means “back off”, and it is not
a good time to approach the cat.

Posture

An upright posture with the head held high means the cat is confident and contented.

A cat lowering its head and turning it sideways while avoiding eye contact means lack of interest,
and is not aggressive.

In the presence of danger, the head will move downwards and the back will start arching, the cat
getting ready to attack if the need arises.
Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 8
Lying on its side or back with legs spread outwards means a very relaxed cat.

Ears

The ears straight up, slightly facing forward and the whiskers relaxed are the signs of a happy and
alert cat.

Ears flat, facing sideways or back means an angry and frightened cat.

Moving away with ears turned back means a nervous cat, and is an early warning of aggression.

Tail

• Wagging tail
o The cat is angry; this is the exact opposite to dogs

• Tail straight up
o When a cat is happy

• Tail goes down

o As the cat becomes more alert, indicates a neutral to a slightly aggressive posture

• Tail facing down but with a definite kink at the base

o Aggressive cat

• A ‘bottle-brush’ tail – tail up and bushy

o Indicates an angry, emotionally charged cat

• Tail twitches slightly

o Normally means “I am interested, and ready to play”.

Eyes

• Cats with eyes fully open and looking straight at you

o says “I am listening”

• Half-closed eyes means

o “I am sleepy and content”

• Slit-like eyes
o A calm, content cat
Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 9
 • Dilated pupils
o Excitement or aggression

Staring directly into the cat’s eyes will always be interpreted as an aggressive behaviour.

Head

• A cat holding its head up is a content and confident cat.

• Head goes down at the sight of danger.
• Head turned sideways says “I don’t want to fight”.
• Head butting means “I want to be friends with you”.

Areas on a cat’s body where pheromones are present are the neck, chin, cheeks and bottom.

When you stroke a cat it will raise the pheromone areas to expose them. By stroking around these
areas you transfer some of the pheromones on to your hands. This will indicate that you are a friend.

Paws

• Retracted claws means a relaxed cat.

• Extended claws means the cat is ready to fight.
• A swiping movement of the paws indicates a battle-ready state.
• Kneading dough is a kitten-like behaviour; as a kitten feeds on her mother’s breast it will
knead to stimulate the milk flow. So, kneading is always associated with pleasure.

CORRECT HANDLING METHODS

Veterinary nurses do spend most of their day handling animals of all sorts of breeds, shapes and
sizes, so it is important to know how to do it properly. The guidelines below are useful in most
situations, but you will need to be aware of the animal’s condition so that you do not cause any harm
to any injures. For example, don’t lift a dog with abdominal problems by the belly or grab a fractured
leg to stop a cat from moving.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 10

Carrying cats

Do not carry them in your arms from room to room, as it is very easy for a cat to become scared and
try to escape from you. Always use a cat carrier/box. If you are carrying a cat to move it from one
area to another in the same room, then you need to know how to carry it correctly. Place its
hindquarters under your elbow, pressing the animal to your body. You want the cat to lay on your
forearm (of the same arm), with your hand on their chest, holding the front legs securely. Have one
finger between their front legs. If the cat starts to wriggle then you can use your other hand to scruff
the cat (grasping the back of the neck of an animal in order to control it. It is one of the best ways of
discouraging bad behaviour in cats).

Carrying small and medium-sized dogs

For small dogs use the same technique as above, but don’t scruff a dog while carrying it; use the
other hand to steady or pet it. To lift and carry a medium-sized dog a short distance, place one arm
under the dog’s neck, just in front of its legs. Do this securely to prevent you from being bitten or
dropping the dog. Place the other arm either round its bottom or under its belly. Pull your arms and
the dog towards your chest.

Lifting and carrying large dogs

It can be difficult to lift large dogs. Two people should lift them; one puts their arm around the dog’s
neck and the other arm goes under the dog’s chest. The other person puts one arm under the dog’s
belly and one around its bottom. The two people should be standing side by side.

Giant breeds of dogs should either be treated on the floor or lifted with a hydraulic lift.

Cats

Restraint for blood tests

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 11

 Restraint for general examination

Restraint for lateral recumbency

NOTES

Cats

An aggressive cat might have to be wrapped in a heavy towel for restraint.

Dogs

Restraint for blood tests

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 12

 Restraint for general examination

Restraint for lateral recumbency

With the dog standing, reach across the dog’s back and hold the dog’s front legs with one hand and
the rear legs with the other (placing your middle finger between the legs), then gradually lift the
dog’s legs up off the table/floor, letting the dog’s body slide slowly against your body until the dog is
laying on its side. Use the forearm of the arm holding the front legs to restrain the dog’s head by
gently pushing down, pinning the dog’s head to the table/floor. A larger dog will require two people
but the technique is the same, only one person takes the front end and one the back end.

Restraint from standing position

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 13

NOTES

• Never let a dog jump down from a table or bench.

• A shy or scared dog may need more time spent with it to make it feel more secure.

• Moving slowly and speaking softly will stop you from alarming the dog.

• Commands like “SIT”, “STAY”, “COME”, “DOWN”, “NO” or “OFF” are useful to
encourage dogs to cooperate with you.

• Saying “do wee wees”, “quickies” or “be quick” can be very useful if you’re trying to get a
urine sample.

• If the vet wishes to examine a dog on the floor, then back it up to wall or corner to prevent it
reversing out of the way; it’s like having a second pair of hands.

• Only lift the dog when it is absolutely necessary.

EXOTIC HANDLING

Rabbits

It is necessary to support the rabbit’s bottom at all times. One good way of lifting a rabbit is by
grasping the skin over the shoulder with one hand and gently lifting it with the other arm, cradling
the body, the head resting in the crook of your arm. Rabbits must never be lifted by the ears. A rabbit
placed on its back will generally stay still and calm. Be aware that rabbits sometimes bite, and they
can inflict painful scratches with their hind legs. Rabbits can have their backs broken if mishandled,
resulting in paralysis.

Guinea pigs

Guinea pigs rarely bite, but are very easily frightened and will make noises and squirm to avoid
being held. The hind limbs must be supported at all times. Care must be taken not to stress them too
much, as they can have fits brought on by stress.

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 14

Rodents

When picking up a rodent, it is best to scoop it up by cupping your hand under its body. Never
squeeze or tightly grasp the body. If holding a wiggly rodent, you can try gently holding its scruff
with one hand while supporting the body in the palm of your other hand. Be careful when holding
rodents, as a relatively short fall can cause injuries. It is best to hold them just above a table with a
towel acting as a soft surface in case it falls or jumps. To pick up an aggressive rodent, place a cup or
paper tube on its side in front of them, and gently herd the rodent into the tube or cup, and then pick
up the tube and rodent.

Snakes

Handle them gently by supporting their body weight in your hand or arm. If one snake is wrapped
around something, then gently unwrap/unbury them as you lift.

Lizards

Pick up the lizards by sliding your hand under its tummy, with your index finger up towards their
neck between their front legs, with their bottom resting on your wrist or arm.

Turtles and Tortoises

These should be held with two hands, with fingers both on top of the shell and underneath to support.

Birds

Small birds may be held in one hand, head between the second and third fingers, body and wings
held with your thumb and other fingers, and controlling the legs.

Large birds need to be handled gently, but be supportive.

Hold the bird so that it is balanced by resting its weight on your forearm, its head under your left
arm, its legs held between the fingers of your left hand with its tail pointed away from you. The
bird’s chest must not be restricted at any time. The bird’s respiration must be monitored continuously
during handling, and if the bird becomes too stressed, the bird should be placed in a quiet, warm,
dimly lit place to recover.

TUTOR TALK: You have now come to the end of this assignment. Answer the questions
relating to the work that you have just covered and return them to the College for marking.

© Copyright Reserved
Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 15
STUDENT NOTES: Please use the space below for recording what you consider to be
any pertinent information or notes. You may find it helpful to refer back to it later on!

Veterinary Support Assistant Diploma Course – Assignment Five – Page 16