Facilitator Manual

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TRAIN THE TRAINERS PROGRAM
FOR
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

FOREWORD
Apparel & Textile sector is a natural choice of most developing countries on the
path to industrialization and employment generation. The abnormal raising wages
in developed countries have opened immense possibilities to enter and compete
for a rightful share of the world apparel and textile market. The evolution of this
industry therefore is possible by a combined effort of the local government’s
industrial policies, the entrepreneurial prowess of the private sector and the
flexibility and work ethics clubbed with skill of the labour force.
At IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative Limited, we have attempted to create

the SPV in the name of Apparel & Textiles (APPTEX) Manpower Development
Services Limited, on Private Public Partnership to hone the skill of the labour
force to achieve competitiveness through a very unique training method. Our
mission is to establish 200 training centers in next two years and train 5 lakh
people form rural Below Poverty Line (BPL). The initiative is named as SPRING
(Skill Programme for Inclusive Growth) and supported by Ministry of Rural
Development, Government of India with participation of the Apparel and Textile
Industry Association. The project envisages meeting objectives of the demand and
supplying gap of skilled manpower in the apparel industry and providing gainful
employment to rural youth. The project implementation and management is aptly
called Skill development and Employment in Apparel Manufacturing (SEAM).
The success of industry depends on good training and good trainers, so lets join
force to improve manpower development and enhance productivity.
RCM Reddy, IAS,
CEO & MD
IL&FS CDI Limited
| Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

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FOREWORD
I congratulate the IL&FS CDI’s Skill Development Initiative Team for having
established the pilot phase 15 training centers across 7 states and set for
expanding the second phase programme implementation. The initiative is very
important in view of providing right and quality sewing operators to the garment
industry, which needs to practice in globally accepted terms of productivity, quality,
waste reduction and quick response production. The one-month training in the
ILFSCDI training centers should become benchmark by itself, saving cost and
time for the garment manufacturers.
To meet the two fold objectives of skill development and provide gainful
employment to Rural Below Poverty Line (BPL) youths across the country, we
are planning to set up 200 training centers in next 2 years. The Train the Trainers
(ToT) programme for the second phase is being initiated now, will attempt to meet
the objectives as envisaged in the project. The role of trainers is very important
in the project implementation framework from selection to employment. This
unique programme leaves opportunities to the trainers to become skill trainer,
facilitator, motivator and change agent, transforming the economic and socio-
cultural livelihood of the trainees from the BPL families.
I take this opportunity to mention that networking closely with District Rural
Development Agencies, Potential Rural BPL Families, Potential employers
and allied industrial partners are very critical to the success of this programme.
The Train the Trainers programme Manual is carefully complied and equipped
with useful information. I wish every one the best learning and bright career
at IL&FS CDI’s Skill Development and Employment in Apparel Manufacturing
(SEAM) Initiative.
Dr. NVR Nathan,
Vice President,
IL&FS CDI Limited


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TABLE OF CONTENTS
I.)Introduction:
a.) History of vocational Training
b.) Role of a Trainer
II.) Production Methods with their relevance in Training
III) Understanding BPL and motivating them to join the Training Programme
IV) Guidelines for Interviewing and Dexterity Tests
V) Reviewing the K yan Content
Sewing Machine Operator Program
Total number of modules 13
Course1 Fundamentals of sewing machines

Introduction to Sewing
Module1 Machine to sewing
machines
Sub-module1 Definition of Sewing Machines
Sub-module2 Types of Sewing Machines

Classification of Sewing
Sub-module3
Machines
Parts of Lockstitch Sewing
Sub-module4
Machine

Working on a Sewing
Module2
Machine
Sub-module1 Right posture

Basics of Sewing
Module3
Machine Operation
Personal appearance at works
Sub-module1
place
Sub-module2 Correct posture of body
Sub-module3 How to put foot on pedal
Sub-module4 How to operate the pedal
Sub-module5 Practice of pedal operation
Sub-module6 Operation of knee lifter

Attaching the needle
Module4
and threading
Attaching a needle on
Sub-module1
lockstitch machine
Threading of lockstitch
Sub-module2
machine
Attaching a needle on overlook
Sub-module3
machine
Sub-module4 Threading of overlock machine

Winding the bobbin
Module5
thread
Sub-module1 Bobbin thread winder unit
Adjusting the bobbin thread
Sub-module2
winding
Setting the bobbin into the
Sub-module3
bobbin case
Sub-module4
tension
Setting the bobbin case into the
Sub-module5
hook

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Adjusting the sewing
Module6
condition
Sub-module1 Adjusting the Stitch Length
Adjusting the Thread Tension
Sub-module2
Nut
Adjusting the Pressure of
Sub-module3
Presser Foot
Sub-module4 Adjustment of Feed Dog
Adjusting the Thread Take-up
Sub-module5
Spring
Adjusting the Needle Thread
Sub-module6 Take-up Amount of the Thread
Take-up Lever
Cleaning of a sewing
Module7
machine
Procedure for Cleaning of a
Sub-module1
sewing machine
Sub-module2 Instructions For safe operation
Do’s and don’ts while

Module8
sewing
Sub-module1 Do’s while sewing
Sub-module2 Don’ts while sewing
Course2 Worksheets
Module1 Worksheets
Low Speed Straight Stitching
Sub-module1
and Fixed Position Stop
Sub-module2 Adjustment of Thread Tension
High Speed Straight Stitching
Sub-module3
Sub-module4 Manual Reverse Stitching

Sub-module5 Corner Stitching

Corner Stitching - Taking the
Sub-module6
Sewing Allowance
Curve Stitching (right curve and
Sub-module7
left curve)
Course3 Sewing Machine Folders and attachments

Module1 Aids for Sewing
Sub-module1 Introduction
Sub-module2 Plait Folder
Single Needle Shirt Yoke
Sub-module3
Attachment
Single Needle Shoulder
Sub-module4
Topstitch Attachment
Sub-module5 Sleeve Placket Binder
Single Needle Sleeve
Sub-module6
Attachment
Sub-module7 Cuff Setter
Sub-module8 Bottom Hemming Folder
Sub-module9 Front Placket Attachment
Course4 Sewing Problems

Problems of Stitch
Module1
Formation
Problems Arising from Stitch
Sub-module1
Formation
Sub-module2 Unbalanced Stitches
Sub-module3 Skip Stitches
Needle, Bobbin or Looper
Sub-module4
Thread Breakages
Sub-module5 Machine Not Feeding Material
Sub-module6 Variable Stitch Density

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Sub-module7 Staggered Stitches
Sub-module8 Loops in the Seam
Skipped Stitch at the Start of
Sub-module9
Sewing
Sub-module10 Machine Making Loud Noises
Sub-module11 Broken Needle
Module2 Seam Puckering

Sub-module2 Use of Thick Needle
Sub-module3 Excessive Thread Tension
Sub-module4 Defective Presser Foot
Sub-module5 Material Flops
Sub-module6 Defective Feed
Sub-module7 Fast Sewing speed
Factors for preventing
Sub-module8
Puckering
Damage to the Fabric

Module3
Along the Stitch Line
Fabric Yarn Damage While
Sub-module2
Sewing
Sub-module3 Needle Heating Damage
Course5 Construction of Men’s Shirt

Module1 Placket- Making
Preparation of Left Hand Side
Sub-module1
Placket
Preparation of Right Hand Side
Sub-module2
Placket

Pocket - Making,
Module2
Attaching
Sub-module1 Pocket Preparation
Pocket attaching
Module3 Yoke – Attaching

Sub-module1 Attaching yoke to the back
Sub-module2 Attaching yoke to the front

Sleeve Placket –
Module4
Making, Attaching
Upper sleeve placket
Sub-module1
preparation
Lower sleeve placket
Sub-module2
preparation
Attaching Plackets to the
Sub-module3
sleeve
Attaching - Sleeve,
Module5
Making - Side Seam
Sub-module1 Sleeve Attach
Sub-module2 Side Seam
Neckband, Collar -
Module6
Making, Attaching
Collar & Neck Band
Sub-module1
Preparation
Sub-module2 Collar & Neck band Attach
Sub-module3 Collar Attach to Body
Making and Attaching

Module7
Cuff
10 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

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Sub-module1 Cuff preparation
Sub-module2 Cuff Attach to Sleeve
Hemming, Button -
Module8
Holding, Attaching
Sub-module1 Bottom Hemming
Sub-module2 Button Holing
Sub-module3 Button Attaching
Course6 Construction of Men’s Trousers

Pocket – Making,
Module1
Attaching
Preparation of Pocket bag
Sub-module1
(front)
Sub-module2 Pocket attach (front)
Sub-module3 Back Pocket Making
Fly – Making,
Module2
Attaching
Sub-module1 Fly making and attach
Module3 Zipper - Attaching

Sub-module1 Zipper attach
Module4 Back Rise - Attaching

Sub-module1 Back rise attach
Front Back Pieces

Module5
- Attaching
Sub-module1 Front and back attach
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 11

Belt and Loop –

Module6
Making, Attaching
Sub-module1 Belt loop making
Sub-module2 Belt and loop attach
Module7 Bottom Hemming

Sub-module1 Bottom Hemming
Buttons –Holing,
Module8
Attaching
Sub-module1 Button Holing
Sub-module2 Button Attach
Module9 Bar tacking

Sub-module1 Bar tacking
Course7 Construction of Men’s Polo Shirt

Module1 Front placket -Making
Sub-module1 Preparation of Front Placket
Module2 Shoulder - Attaching

Sub-module1 Procedure for Shoulder Attach
Sleeve –Attaching,
Module3
Hemming
Sub-module1 Procedure for Sleeve Attach
Procedure for Attaching Front
Sub-module2 and Back Along Sleeve (Side
Seam)
Sub-module3 Hemming Sleeve Bottom.

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Module4 Collar -Attaching
Sub-module1 Procedure for Collar Attaching
Buttons – Holing,
Module5
Attaching
Sub-module1 Button holing and button attach
III) Training on an overlock Machine
V) Preparation of Session Plan (Review & Monitoring)
VII) Designing a Training Module Practical Exercises

HISTORY OF VOCATIONAL TRAINING

Training has existed since the beginning of time itself. The ability to communicate
a word or act to another being is an important part of human intelligence and has
enabled the evolution of knowledge and understanding to its prominent position
today. The earliest training was the transfer of survival information. This type
training continued as man and knowledge itself advanced.
Training developed into apprenticeships as society evolved. (This form of training
still exists today in highly skilled jobs.) The apprentice, or the trainee, was
assigned, or bound by contract, to a skilled master of the particular craft or art to
be trained. The master taught the apprentice over a period of years until the craft
or art was mastered. This was a good method of training skilled workers, but the
industrial revolution soon made the apprenticeship program obsolete.
In the early 1800’s, power driven machinery was invented on a large scale.
Power driven machinery gave rise to the industrial revolution - the age of the
machine. The small shop of the master craftsman gave way to the large factory.
Requirements of skill and knowledge were reduced from the total ability to partial
ability. Factories were built and villages and towns grew around them. Lifestyles
and work habits changed.
The most common type training still involved a teacher and the trainee and
was centered on the job. This method is called on-the-job training. The trainee
learned how to perform only part of the total manufacturing operation. Skills were
developed on a smaller scale than with the apprenticeship was the primary training
method until World War II. During this war, the training effort was organized so
that a large number of trainees could be taught a job in a short time period. The
vestibule method of training was developed to meet this need. The vestibule
method of training teaches the trainee how to perform the job before reaching the
production floor. The trainee is trained to do the job and then put on a production
assignment
During the war, an English doctor, Dr. Seymour, studied the effect of training
methods and sought improvements. Dr. Seymour’s efforts led him to a scientific
approach to the training effort that drastically reduced the learning time. Today’s
training methods are based on Dr. Seymour’s basic system. The training method
used in our plant is called Systematic Method of Training (S.M.T.).
During its evolution, training has retained the same basic definition -to result in
a skill or knowledge transfer from the teacher (instructor) to the student (trainee)
so that the desired modification in behavior results. That is training -a skill or
knowledge transfer. You, as the instructor, must transfer your skills and knowledge
to the trainee.

Chapter 1 | ROLE OF A TRAINER
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Background of the programme
The pilot programme of our skill development initiative starts with training sewing
machine operators who can be successfully trained and a placed as sewing
machine operators on the shop floor of the apparel industry. The programme also
addresses an important area of social responsibility of alleviating poverty levels
of the Rural BPL (Below Poverty Line) youth.
The uniqueness of the programme is

 Highly structured
 Strong Audio Visual Content
 Accelerated Module
 Objective based (Categories Knits / Woven)
 (Product Based: Shirts/ Trousers/ Polo Shirt)
 Third Party Scrutiny & Certification
 Inclusion of Soft Skills to imbibe industrial culture.
In a nutshell this programme is highly structured at the same time it allows
flexibility of providing more weight age on certain areas to adapt to the need of the
user industry.
Introduction
The trainer should understand her/his job responsibilities clearly before conducting
the course. The aim of the training course is to provide the trainees with the skills
of handling future tasks in a factory with high quality and efficiency.
The methods that a trainer should adopt for the implementation of an effective
training course are listed as follows for reference:
For this the trainer is supported with an adequate support of a Multi Media Based
audiovisual content and guidelines on subjecting the trainees through a structured
methodology, which could broadly be categorized into
 Familiarization with machine and Factory Basics.

 Threading and Control of the Machine.

 Familiarization with Fabric & Actual Sewing Conditions.

 Introduction to the Basic Product.
Methods
1. Duty
To train the new trainee to become a qualified sewing operator according to the
planned training program. Noting the training needs of the trainees, the skills for
them must be agreed with management on the skills inventory. (Skill Inventory is
the set of machine skills and skill levels required by a sewing factory to achieve
the desired out put. We will discuss the skill inventory in detail as we discuss
production systems followed in a factory. )
2. Supervision
Give instruction, as required and supervise the progress of the training program to
make sure the program runs smoothly. (We have an Audio Visual Content on the
K Yan, We will discuss in detail the how to evolve a session plan and Monitor it)
3. Quality
Check that the work is produced against quality specifications. Inspect some
of the work passed by the trainee, correcting them as necessary. To teach the
trainee with the concept of “Right at the first time” that the number of mistakes
happened during the program would be reduced. The concept of right first time is
very important keeping in mind that this training programme follows an accelerated
mode, as it is content rich there is no scope of replication. From the point of view
of the factory it reduces the amount of rework and start up losses.
4. Demonstration
To demonstrate standard sewing methods to the trainee, with the help of tools,
attachments, real samples, diagram and visual presentations etc. The K Yan is
an important device for introduction and reinforcing the concepts the trainer may
make evolve demonstration samples for practical and effective understanding of
the trainee.

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5. Program
The trainer should plan for the course beforehand. If there is problem among the
trainees, which may affect the training schedule, the trainer may need to adjust it
accordingly. As earlier discussed a session plan may be evolved keeping in mind
the local festivals and events, other conditions like staggering of power supply etc.
6. Job knowledge transfer

To educate trainees about the knowledge necessary for their jobs, which include
factory environment, quality standards, measurement, methods on machine
adjustment, name of cut pieces and operations etc. As far as possible try and
keep the original terminology, or may be bilingual but always try to familiarize with
the original terminology.
7. Record and report

To maintain an accurate and complete records of each trainee’s progress at all
stages of training for future analysis. We will evolve and discuss subsequently
about devising formats and monitoring progress of the trainees.
8. Safety and discipline

To educate the trainees about the safety rules which are related to their job and
to the plant in general, and help to create a sense of ‘safety consciousness’ for
each trainee. Trainees should work within the factory disciplinary procedures.
Trainee may also need to take First Aid training course if necessary. The trainer
need to check all the machinery is in safe working order or has been checked by
a competent person. The trainer also needs to ensure the new trainees know the
safety rules and obey them.
9. Planning
Planning the allocation of the trainees within each training session. Set the target
for each trainee, and prepare a chart showing the potential output of each of her
trainees for their jobs. Ensuring that cut work, garments from another sections,
thread and trimming etc is ordered, with adequate notice and checks on delivery
for the training program.

Skill requirement for a Trainer of sewing

operators programme
1. Sewing skill
The trainer is as good as the trainees who learn from him/ her. The trainer should
have knowledge in the garment production and is familiar with each operation in
the production system. He/She should also have skills to operate all the machines
on which the trainees are trained in the Training Programme. He/She must also
have skills to fix minor problems with the machines in use and changing or altering
the settings to demonstrate the variable effects of Machine settings.
2. Experience and education level

It would be better if the trainer has the education of at least 10th / 12th with 3 to
4 years of training or shop floor experience of the Sewing Industry / or college or
above and has prior working experience in the clothing industry. Basic Knowledge
of Computers and workable knowledge of English.
3. Knowledge about the clothing industry

The trainer should always keep his/her knowledge up-to-dated by attending other
training course; seminars and events as trainee usually count on their trainer
as their sources of new information. He should have a knowledge of production
systems, production planning, Skill levels and requirements required by various
types of clothing factories (For e.g. A small 50 to 60 machine factory may require
different type of skill set as compared to a 400 to 500 machine factory.)
4. Presentation skill
Training is an art of communication and so the trainer is required to have strong
presentation and teaching skills. He/She may need to adjust his/her teaching
methods in a flexible way for different students. As the target audience of this
course is BPL students who are generally from a background that they have not
had a chance to receive good quality of formal education. It is also to be kept in
mind that this is a skill imparting programme so the final out come is to enable the
operator to Sew. A good mix of presentation as well as demonstration skills will
also be required.

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5. Patience
Since trainees are often with very different background and experience, especially
from BPL families their learning abilities are also varied. However there might be
people with a good dexterity and coordination skills who will pick up skills faster
than the others and should be provided requisite skills to fit into a factory ‘s skill
inventory.
6. Motivation
The trainer would need to motivate the trainee and raise their interests during
the training program. One way to give the trainees more interest and satisfaction
in their work is to make them understand the vital role that they play in their
company. This could be coupled with role-plays and simulation exercises.
7. Communication
Keep people informed, since they will not feel part of something unless they have
a good idea of what that something is and how it works. Make sure that they
know how their job affects other people. Give praise where it is due; always say
please and thank you.
TRAINER THE CHANGE AGENT

The Trainer is the most important part of this programme; this could be simply
explained as follows. If you compare an industrial worker whose father was also an
industrial worker, he might be aware of how industries work, what is industrial culture.
He is familiar about industrial discipline; the concepts are not new or first hand.
Comparing this with somebody who is from an agrarian background or whose

background does not have an industrial interface the concepts of industrial culture
and discipline will only flow through the Trainer who is the entry point for the entrant
to the industry. The Trainers will not only be an instrument of imparting skills but
will also be medium for building the right kind of Industrial culture this establishes
the role of a trainer not only as a teacher but also as a complete mentor.

SOME SIMPLE GUIDELINES THAT CAN BE FOLLOWED:

All of us would appreciate would have the fond memory of a teacher, for the
reasons best known to us .We have appreciated our teachers for being our
mentors and preparing us for our life. We are perhaps going through very difficult
transitions that from being skilled people we are now into the task of creating
skilled people.
The Best player in the team may not be the best captain or the best coach; he
has to have the right mix of the subject skills as well as people skills. It would be
worthwhile to take some time remember our favorite teacher and write down why
we liked our favorite teacher, and what is it that we liked about him. We have dealt
with the role a Trainer has to follow now let us look at what could be some simple
ways of being an effective trainers
Personal Touch:
It is always good to have some kind of a personal touch and know people
personally, try to get the names of the trainees ask them to wear identity cards
and try to remember their names. Call out attendence personally.
Content Knowledge:
It is important to have a through knowledge of the content you could rehearse the
content, and practice exercises where you need to evolve greater confidence to
be able to handle it.
Available Resources:
Make a list of all the available resources; keep some extra material ready always
e.g. Paper exercises, Fabric Exercises, fabric cut parts etc. Check what needs
to be added, add whatever is possible. E.g. The K- Yan is one of the most
powerful resource at your disposal, you may need to develop some samples to
be demonstrated practically, when you are handling a module to prepare a shirt
collar which is covered very well in the K Yan content, but there is still a need to
give a practical demo.

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Work Place readiness:
Check and arrange the workplace if possible on the previous day evening it self,
or come early to class for making arrangements for fitting of attachments. Ask
the trainees to report 10-15 minutes to collect things like bobbin, bobbin cases,
thread spools fabric exercises practical material. During the training period it is
advisable for the trainees to come and do the needle attaching and threading
daily so as to reinforce their basics.
Maintaining Records:
It is seemingly one of the easiest exercises, at the same time it is one of the most
neglected areas, we tend to rely on our memory even though we know it might
not always assist us. The most important utility however would be analysis and
trying to find out how our efforts can be more fruitful.
Repetition:
As all of us are aware that this is a month long module and is highly structured we
may still find ways and means of reinforcing concepts and skill also ensure that
the demonstration and instructions are accurate and repeated in fairly the same
way, to avoid confusion in the minds of the trainee.
Maintaining Academic Rigour:
The Programme primarily involves imparting of skill but at the same time being
a structured programme should be made rigorous. Some pressure in terms of
achievement of goals and target must be maintained. This will also mentally
prepare the trainee to cope up with the pressure in the Apparel Industry. Try to
induce healthy competition.
Taking it in a nutshell the administrative responsibility of a trainer can be

briefly summarized as
 To help Training center to identify potential trainees from the BPL list
provided by DRDA in consultation with ILFS
 To conduct tests to select trainees as per the selection procedures as
guided by ILFS
 To conduct orientation programme for the trainees introduce the training

programme, objective, rules and regulation of the training;

 To provide kits to trainees and help them to use in appropriate manner;
 To facilitate smooth conduct of the training through K-Yans and practical
demonstrations using machineries, equipments and tools provided;
 To coordinate all training administration work and represent Training center
in IL&FS CDI and DRDA meetings;
 To coordinate with IL&FS CDI and DRDA for trainee's profile, data bank
preparation and report work;
 To supervise, prepare, record and report formats like trainees daily
worksheets, time tracking etc;
 To supervise maintenance of machineries, tools and equipments provided
to training centers and report; also contact Supplier of Machinery for any
machinery related matters including warranty and AMC etc;
 To supervise house keeping, security, safety procedures and report as
stipulated by IL&FS CDI;
 To facilitate trainees for daily transport/lunch or dormitory facilities;
 To manage all finance related matters pertaining to training centre, record
and report;
 To coordinate with industrial units for placement; industry contribution and
related matters and report;
 To prepare, file and send all periodical reports to ILFS, NIRD and DRDA
whichever applicable;
 To facilitate and conduct additional courses as required by the industry on
customized basis.
 To follow up and report any other matters related to training with
appropriate agencies

Chapter 2: PRODUCTION METHOD AND THEIR RELEVANCE IN TRAINING
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The Clothing is a competitive industry having a strong presence in Asian countries.
The Major Markets being the USA and Europe. Many Asian countries are major
manufacturing hubs to fulfill the global demand in clothing Cost competitiveness
therefore becomes necessary, as we and most of our neighboring countries are
manufacturing bases, it is very important to achieve competitiveness in terms of
cost and lead-time.
Production Systems
When it comes to Mass Production of Garments it becomes essential that a
system be devised to facilitate
 Achievement of Targets on time

 Keep the cost of Production minimal
 Reduce wastage and rework
 Track and Monitor products with ease
1. Make Through System:

The Make Trough System is one of the most primitive systems where one tailor
makes the entire garment. It is a set up where there are a large number of tailors
on one floor given a bundle of garment parts .The operators will complete the
garment. This system is obsolete, but may be followed in case of Hi fashion
garments; The skill level required is quite high therefore this kind of requirement
may need some basic knowledge of Pattern Cutting.
2. Unit Production System:

In order to understand unit production system it is important to understand the
concept of an assembly line. An arrangement of workers, machines, and equipment
in which the product being assembled passes consecutively from operation to
operation until completed. This may also be referred to as a production line. If we
analyze a Garment carefully we find that it can be sub divided into various parts.
Further one particular part may be made in several small steps

3. Progressive Bundle unit:

Progressive bundle unit is also a type of assembly line where series of pre decided
sequence of operations are performed on a pre determined size of a bundle. This
is also a type of assembly line, which aims at maximization of out put, maintaining
a high amount of work in process.
To understand production on an assembly line we have to

understand some concepts
Basic Pitch Time:
 Pitch time is the speed at which parts or products flow from process on a
manufacturing line.
 For e.g. if the pitch time is 50 sec. The materials for one garment is
introduced to the production line every 50 sec, and every 50 sec one
garment is finished.
 It could be simply calculated as Actual working time per day / Target
production quantity
 Basic Pitch Time is a unit of synchronization
Efficiency:
 Efficiency can be simply defined as the ratio of output to input

 The effect of efficiency can be observed from the below mentioned
example
 E.g. If 10 new employees join the company and they are at average
efficiency of 80%
 It can be mathematically expressed as 10 x 80% = 8 workers
 8 workers at an efficiency of 80% due to layout and production systems
 8 x 80% = 6.4 Workers
 6.4 Workers are subjected to efficiency 80 % of Management Systems
 6.4 X 80% = 5.1 workers
 It can observed that in spite of best of input the resultant efficiency is
5.1 workers

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Input :
 It is the amount of material or units that is put in the system for processing
to get the desired out put in our case it is the number of garments (in cut
parts) along with the required accessories.
Output:
 It is the amount of material or units that comes out of the system after
undergoing the predetermined process. In our case complete garments.
Through put Time:
 It is the time taken by a garment to come out of the production system for
e.g. if you put a Cut part bundle in the system today it will come out of the
system after 2 days as a complete finished garment.
Start up Time:
 It is the amount of time required for a new style of garment to reach

its optimum output.
Bottleneck operation:
 The operation in an assembly line that takes the longest time is known
bottleneck operation. It is the operation that determines the output of the
assembly line.
A. Definition of Industrial Engineering

Industrial Engineering is concerned with the design, improvement, and installation
of integrated systems of men, materials, and equipment. It draws upon specialized
knowledge and skill in the mathematical, physical and social science, together
with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design, to speedily
predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.

The Primary I.E. activities as spelled out by the American

Institute of Industrial Engineers are:
. Development and installation of wage incentive systems.
2. Development of performance measures and standards (including work
measurement and evaluation systems).
. Development and installation of job evaluation systems
. Evaluation of reliability and performance.
There are 2 questions that we usually ask in Industrial Engineering. They are:
what is the best way to do a job? What is a fair time the job should take? When
Industrial Engineering is used effectively, it can be showed that it can contribute
to the “good health” of the organization.
B. Work and Method Study

We think of it as a direct means of raising productivity.
Work and Method study concern themselves with the analysis in the way in which
a job is new being performed, and then the development of a better method.
However, it is difficult to say that the better method will be the best method because
usually, even engineered methods are subsequently improved by further analysis
or by changing equipment or tools.
Work Study is a generic term for those techniques, particularly method study
and work measurement, which are used in the examination of human work in all
its contexts, and which lead systematically to the investigation of all the factors
which affect the efficiency and economy of the situation being reviewed, in order
to effect improvement
Method Study is the systematic recording and critical examination of existing and
proposed ways of doing work, as a means of developing and applying easier and
more effective methods and reducing costs. The IE engineer will analyze how
the operator is doing the job e.g. how she picks up, how she sews and stops,
and how she disposes off the finished pieces. He will then decide whether the
time taken to perform these jobs can be reduced, for example, by re-positioning

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the pick-up location of the pieces. He will try to have the operator make full use
of both hands. He will also look at the stitching operation to see whether any
unnecessary steps in the job can be eliminated.
C. What are the objectives of Method Study?

The objectives of Method Study are:
. The improvement of processes and procedures

2. The improvement of factory, shop and workplace layout and of the design
of plant and equipment.
. Economy in human effort and the reduction of unnecessary fatigue or
movement.
. Improvement in the use of materials, machines and manpower.
5. The development of a better physical working environment.
D. Factors affecting the Method Study:

. Economic Considerations: Cost and benefit analysis.
2. Technical considerations: Make sure that adequate technical knowledge is
available with which to carry out the study.
. Human Relations: Method change and its effect on workers both
psychological and emotional.
E. Basic Procedures for Method Study

1. Select:
 Where there is high human idle time

 Where there is high machine idle time
 Where there is bottleneck and delay in production process
 Where there is poor quality products
 Where there is high production cost
 Where there is Subnormal productivity

2. Record:
 Workplace layout and surrounding environment

 Description of the work method
 Purpose of the work
 Machine, facility, tool and material
 Operator’s skill
 Motion details
3. Examine:
 Purpose of the work

 Actual work method
 Workstation
 Operator
 Time of work
 Work sequence
4. Develop:
 Workstation layout
 Working environment Tools, equipment and attachments
 Material
 Work instruction
5. Implement:
 Training of the work about the new method

 Receptivity of the worker to the new method
6. Maintain:
Follow up with the new method
Typical “WHY” Questions that we asked when we do the work and method study,
these questions greatly help in the analysis processes:
. “Why is this operation necessary?”

2. “Why is this operation performed in this manner?”
. “Why has this material been specified?”

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. “Why has this class of operator been assigned to do the work?”
5. “What is the purpose of the operation?”
. “How can the operation be better performed?”
7. “Who can best perform the operation?”
8. “Where could the operation be performed at a lower cost?”
9. “When should the operation be performed to give the least amount of
material handling?”
This secondary level of questions can further help us to dig deeper for the analysis
and get the solutions.
PURPOSE:
 What is done?
 Why is it done?
 What else might be done?
 What should be done? PLACE:
 Where is it done?
 Why is it done there?
 Where else might it be done?
 Where should it be done?
SEQUENCE:
 When is it done?
 Why is it done then?
 When might it be done?
 When should it be done?
PERSON:
 Who does it?
 Why does that person do it?
 Who else might do it?
 Who should do it?
MEANS:
 How it is done?

 Why is it done that way?

 How else might it be done?
 How should it be done?
TIME STUDY
A Scientific management method

F.W. Taylor (1985 - 1915) developed a famous scientific management method
emphasizing the need for the following three points if high productivity is to be
achieved.
. Determining the work methods: Work methods should be determined

based on scientific research, not experience.
2. Set fair work goals: The standard amount of work produced in a day
should be decided for each task based on scientific research.
. Worker training: The best work method should be discovered, and the
workers then trained in that method based on the best method selected
according to general applicability.
In other words, Taylor developed a method for breaking a job into its parts,
studying each of these parts to determine the best method, and then
measuring the time required for the average worker to complete the task
according to the defined method.
This method is known as time study, and has been adopted by many
different people and companies.

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Uses for standard time
Modern management techniques are highly dependent upon time. The “Time’’
factor can be used as follows.
Developing a rational plan
 A reference point for considering product delivery.

 A tool for developing a production plan.
Setting an appropriate product price
 A reference point for negotiating the cost of labor.

 Another factor in profit/loss calculations.
Improving productivity.
 Discovering problems and places for improvement in the work flow,

including bottlenecks and task with lots of waste, irrational procedures,
and inconsistencies.
 Comparing the time required and movements of two or more operators
performing the same task to discover places for improvement.
 Checking the effects of work improvements based on the time required.
 As the time data for process design.
 To determine operator skill levels.
*What is “standard time”?

Standard time is the time required by a worker with standard experience to
complete a given task when working at a pace sustainable for an entire workday
under normal working conditions and work methods.
Standard time thus comprises the following components.
 Standard time = actual time + allowance time.

 Allowance time is the break time required to continue working at a
consistent pace for one day.

 Standard time is not constant and unchanging. It is necessary to

periodically reassess the standard time to accurately reflect the current
work condition as workplace improvements and the introduction of new
equipment rationalize work procedures.
How to determine the standard time

The standard time can be determined by various methods. The most common
method used in sewing factories is the stopwatch method
Stopwatch Measurements
Cautions on measurements
. Carefully explain the purpose of the time measurement so that the

operators understand the purpose of being timed.
2. The position of the person taking the measurement should make it easy
for the observer to watch the operator, but should not be distracting to the
operator. A position diagonally behind or in front of the operator is
usually best.
. Before measuring the time, record the component task in the task column
of the time measurement sheet after observing the job to be measured.
The component tasks should be recorded as smallest measurable task unit.

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Component task classification and when to
record:
Job Component tasks and when to record
Sewing Taking the work Sewing by machine Placing
machine work piece (On holding table)
placing under
presser foot
When to Start of needle When needle stops When hand is
record movement start of when pulley stops taken from the
pulley turning (or as pre decided) work piece
(Or as pre decided)
Ironing Taking and placing Ironing Placing
the work piece (On holding table)
(bodice, other)
When to When iron is picked When is returned to When hand is
record up position taken from the
work piece
The points when recordings are taken must be consistently defined and followed
for greater accuracy and to prevent confusion during the timing process.
2. Other time measurement considerations

. For time measurements, keep your eyes, the stopwatch, and the operator
in line so that you can keep an eye on the clock and hand movements.
When there is a succession of short component tasks, sound can also be
used effectively.
2. Start the stopwatch at the start of the time measurement, and leave it
running until the number of required measurement has been completed.
. Record the stopwatch reading at the designated reading point on the time
measurement sheet.
For short repetitive operations 2-3 sec. each such as chained stitching and
stacked thread trimming, record the time required to complete a known
number (between 10-20) of operations

. Unexpected actions or changes in the work procedure may occur even

during repetitive tasks, record the total time for that task, and clarify the
relationship between task elements.
3. Number of measurement
The number of measurement taken will vary with the purpose for which the
results will be used. If for defining the standard time or improving work methods,
measurements should, in principle, be taken ten times (five or more times for
repetitive tasks performed at a steady rhythm).
4. Record working conditions

Work movements and work time are obtained as the result of various work
conditions, and can therefore be used as reference for similar jobs and component
so that other people can understand the condition under which the readings were
obtained.
5. Calculating and organizing time measurements

. When time measurements are complete, write the time for each
component task in red pencil on the bottom row of the measurements.
The time is used to calculate the difference between measurements.
2. Circle times that are clearly abnormal, and do not include these values
when calculating the average time.
. In the averages column of the time measurement sheet, record the
average times to one decimal point.
. Total the times in the component task average column, and record to the
totals column.
When there are two pieces per garment, e.g. pockets, and the time
measurement was for only one pocket, multiply the measurement by two
to obtain the actual time per garment for both pieces.
5. For short repetitive operations requiring 2-3 sec. each, such as chained

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stitching, thread trimming operations, divide the measured time by the
number of operations per garment to obtain the time per garment, and
record this figure in the actual time column.
. Determine and record an allowance factor. Work analysis, when
determining this work factor.
7. Calculate the standard time as:
Standard time = actual time x (1+ allowance rate), and round to the
first decimal.
Reusing standard time data

As lot sizes become smaller, it is necessary to organize and accumulate time
measurement data.
. The accumulated data can be used for similar tasks.

2. For new processes, it is then possible to measure the time of the process
within the production process.
Time analysis by V.T.R. recording

1. V.T.R. analysis
 This is a method whereby the job is recorded to videotape, which is then

played back to measure the job time.
 Time measurement by V.T.R. can be used to obtain accurate time
measurement in the following situations.
 Tasks with many extremely short component tasks.
 Tasks for which the time between repetitions is extremely long shared
tasks performed by plural workers.
 To improve time measurement precision
2. Features
 Action (movement) analysis can be done simultaneously.

 Complex tasks and shared tasks that are difficult to observe can be
analyzed more closely without overlooking important steps because of the

easy reply capability.

 The recordings can be shown to the operators for more effective training
identifying specific problems point.

Other time setting methods

 Prescribed time standard method Jobs or job methods performed or
used by everyone are broken down into the required action elements
to predefine a time cost on the properties of the action element and the
conditions. Generally called the "predetermined time standard" method.
Method time measurement (MTM) and work factor (WF) methods are
also known.
 Standard reference method: Time measurements are not actually taken.
Rather, data collected in the past is organized to define a standard model.
The job conditions are then applied to this standard model to obtain
standard time.
 Actual results method: The time is determined based on past
measurement and the production quantity.

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Task classification
Classification Content
Contributes directly to production; in the case
Primary Task of sewing machine work, refers to when the

needle is actually moving
Regular tasks associated with the main task;
contributes indirectly to the task objective.
Associated
In the case sewing machine work, refers, for
tasks
example, to placement of the work piece on
Main Tasks
the machine.
Specific unavoidable delay associated with
a task, and tasks occurring with irregular
Work frequency that cannot be included within the
Allowance nominal work time. Ex.: thread and needle
replacement, checking finished work, handling
of semi-finished goods.
Personal Time to go to the toilet, wipe off sweat, attend
Break time to other personal physiological needs.
Breaks for recovery from fatigue caused by
Fatigue
work; includes time to take breath, and short
allowance
Allowances breaks taken during lulls in work.
Unavoidable delays occurring irrespective
Workplace of the task being performed; includes delays
breaks occurring due to idle time and various
management concerns.
Other Actions that are obviously unrelated to the job;
includes personal conversation engaged in by
workers, time away from the workstation.
OPERATION ANALYSIS:
Any product in process of manufacture will undergo various steps till it converted
into a final product

Operation analysis is the step wise break up of the various steps involved in the
process of conversion of raw material to the final product.
In the case of a Garment it is the various steps that are involved in the conversion
from finished fabric to the finally packed garment.
The major stages are
 Cutting
 Sewing
 Finishing
The major process however is sewing which consumes the maximum time. The
various considerations that are involved in the detailed operation breakup are
 Type of Seams
 Volume of Production
 Time available
 Machinery Configuration
 Skill Inventory
The Industrial engineers will plan the entire workflow of the garment keeping in
mind the machine configuration. The Production Manager will then load the style
of the garment keeping his skill inventory in account.
Let us take the example of shirt listing down the various operations and skill
requirements

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Number of
O/P Per
STANDARD Machines
SR. Machine
OPERATIONS TIME Desired
NO. No of
(Assumed) for output
Units
of 800 pcs
1 Collar Run stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.07 448.00 2
2 Collar top stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.25 384.00 2
3 Band hem Single Needle Lock Stitch 0.75 640.00 1
Attach band to
4 Single Needle Lock Stitch 2 240.00 3
collar
5 Finish collar Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.5 320.00 3
Collar Band Edge
6 Single Needle Lock Stitch 0.21 2304.00 1
cut
Kansai Special Placket
7 Make placket 1 480.00 2
Making Machine
Make under
placket
9 Hem pocket Single Needle Lock Stitch 0.5 960.00 1
10 Attach pocket Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.97 243.20 3
11 Attach shoulder Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 480.00 2
Tops stitch
shoulder
Attach yoke to
13 Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 480.00 2
back
14 Attach sleeve Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.25 384.00 2
15 Top stitch sleeve Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.5 320.00 3
16 Side seam Feed off the Arm 1 480.00 2
17 Cuff hem Single Needle Lock Stitch 0.75 640.00 1
18 Cuff run stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 480.00 2
19 Cuff topstitch Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.97 243.20 3
20 Cuff attach Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 480.00 2
21 Cuff finish Single Needle Lock Stitch 0.83 576.00 1
22 Placket attach Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.25 384.00 2
23 Finish Placket Single Needle Lock Stitch 1.67 288.00 3
24 Bottom hem Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 480.00 2
25 Attach buttons Button Holing Machine 1.25 384.00 2
26 Sew button holes Button Sewing Machine 1 480.00 2
Brand label Programmable Single
27 1.25 384.00 2
attach Needle Lock Stitch
30.88 52

The above mentioned are approximate figures
Let us assume for example, that we use this as reference for planning the majority
of the operations are based on the Single Needle Lock Stitch so we require
majority of the operators to be Single Needle Lock Stitch.
Number of
Machines
SR. SKILL LEVEL
OPERATIONS MACHINE TYPE Desired for
NO. REQUIRED
output of
800 pcs
1 Collar Run stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch 2

LOW SKILL
2 Collar top stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 2
3 Band hem Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 1
4 Attach band to collar Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 3
5 Finish collar Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 3
6 Collar Band Edge cut Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 1
Kansai Special Placket
7 Make placket SEMI SKILL 2
Making Machine
8 Make under placket Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 2
9 Hem pocket Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 1
10 Attach pocket Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 3
11 Attach shoulder Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 2
12 Tops stitch shoulder Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 1
13 Attach yoke to back Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 2
14 Attach sleeve Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 2
15 Top stitch sleeve Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 3
16 Side seam Feed off the Arm HIGH SKILL 2
17 Cuff hem Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 1
18 Cuff run stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch LOW SKILL 2
19 Cuff topstitch Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 3
20 Cuff attach Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 2
21 Cuff finish Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 1
22 Slv placket attach Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 2
23 Finish Placket Single Needle Lock Stitch HIGH SKILL 3
24 Bottom hem Single Needle Lock Stitch SEMI SKILL 2
25 Attach buttons Button Holing Machine SEMI SKILL 2
26 Sew button holes Button Sewing Machine SEMI SKILL 2
Programmable Single
27 Brand label attach HIGH SKILL 2
Needle Lock Stitch

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The above mentioned are estimations of Skill levels required.
Even though these are single needle lock stitch operations they involve varied
degree of skill this brings us to the concept of SKILL INVENTORY and RATING
followed by the industry
SKILL INVETORY is the amount of collective skill available in a factory, across,

machine types, specialized machines, or operation types, an imbalance in the
skill inventory leads to build up of bottlenecks even at minor operations
At the same time if there are highly skilled operators the labor cost increases, the
ability of the manager lies in putting the right level of skill in the right operation.
A process called deskilling is also followed by the industry where the dependence
on skill can be reduced, this is done through breaking down operations into small
fragments, getting automated machines, using folders or work aids.
Rating is where operators are categorized into various categories depending on

their skill and dexterity and are often paid as per the grade. Rating also helps in
picking and placing operators on critical operations. Operator rating in itself is a
big subject.
The basic principle involves doing an operation as per the required quality in the
pre decided time
For e.g. If attachment of pocket it takes 2 minutes as per the required quality
standards.
If there are 3 operators
 Operator No.1 takes 1 minutes and 30 seconds he is more than 100%, we

can say that he is 125% efficient.
 Operator No.2 takes 2 minutes he is 100% efficient.
 Operator No.3 takes 2 minutes 30 seconds we can say he is 75% efficient
Based on the timing rating and skill sets of operators they are provided grades.

Chapter 3: TRAINING FOR ADULT LEARNERS
SELECTION OF OPERATORS
The Experiential Learning Cycle
Activity phase
Planning how to – Experience
use the learning

- Applying
EXPERIENTIAL Sharing reactions

LEARNING and observations
Generalising CYCLE - publishing
– understanding
and developing
Reflecting about
principles
consequences
- Processing
Adults learn best from and through experience. One’s own experience – both past
and present – and others’ experiences form a fundamental source of learning. But
merely undergoing an experience, feeling some emotion and getting some vague
impressions does not lead to a productive learning impact. We need to reflect on
the experience, analyse it – structure, dynamics and our reactions – and gain
insights, derive more broadly applicable principles. Based on these we prepare to
go through similar experiences in life with transformed vision that expresses itself
through changed behaviour.
Often during the continuous learning of our lives we go through all these steps
instinctively, rapidly. For instance, when faced with unpleasant experiences we
automatically withdraw, we decide to do something else next time.

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ADULT LEARNING
Adults come to a learning situation with a well-defined self-concept, and helping
them build up their self-concept can facilitate learning. Adults learn what they
think is relevant to their lives and their problems. Their learning is based on
experience. It is usually an emotional process, both in the sense that certain
emotions are associated with the process of learning and learning occurs
through feeling as much as thinking and acting. Adults choose whether to
learn or not i.e. they have to be ready and willing to be involved in the process.
The Trainer
The Trainer is central to any training program. The trainer is expected to play
many roles – as subject specialist; as behaviour scientist; as leader; as friend,
philosopher and guide.
The trainer has to sometimes play multiple roles and continuously move between
each. In an ideal situation, one could have a training team in which different
people with different competencies work together in training. However, that is
often not the case. Therefore the trainers’ competency and ability to move between
roles becomes important. This in turn makes it important for each of us to know
ourselves; what we can do; do we have the skills to play the different roles; how
do we deal with the stress and anxiety of taking on different roles.
As trainers who will be teaching and helping a variety of young people learn
skills, what is required in preparation is an understanding of self - a reflection,
an examination of the experience and an understanding of the is reason behind
a certain reaction. We need to be sure that we do what we speak and believe;
that we develop a sensitivity towards the learners and their process of self-
development and learning; and finally, as trainers train ourselves to observe and
sense the changing currents in a learning environment.
The Learning Environment

Recognizing the above principles, an appropriate learning environment then
becomes essential to facilitate learning for adults. Some of the characteristics of
a learning environment are:

 Valuing learners and their experience by recognizing his/her

uniqueness, experience, contributions, knowledge and capacity to learn.
This means that trainers pay attention to the learners, both in the formal
and informal settings and acknowledge what they are saying and sharing.
 Creating conditions that allow for easy, open, systematic and effective
sharing of past experiences. Sharing should be focused in relation to
the specific learning objective. Small group discussions and facilitated
expression of thoughts and experience are important to this. Sharing also
promotes critical analysis and opens up learners to new thoughts.
 Openness to self, openness to others, openness to learn, openness
to question, to examine and challenge is key to adult learning. An
environment that engenders respect and support encourages participants
and trainers to share feelings and thoughts without loss of face.
 An environment that makes participant feels psychologically safe and
comfortable i.e. the learner needs to be challenged and stimulated, but
not undermined. The learner should feel that he/she could make mistakes
and yet be acceptable to and accepted by others.
 Related to the above is the created of an environment of support
– emotional, intellectual and behavioural. It is important that as much as
facilitators and trainers support learners, they are also supporting each
other through the process.
Studies have shown that people remember 20% of what they hear, 40% of
what they hear and see and 80% of what they discover for themselves.
Learning Methods
People learn through different methods. Choosing the appropriate learning
method methods depends on what we want learners to learn and the content. In
our training program, the focus is on teaching new skills; the methods we use will
be as follows:
Lecture
The lecture method is an effective way to introduce new information or concepts

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to a group of learners. Learners always appreciate a concise, stimulating and
well-delivered lecture. A lecture works best when it prepared keeping in mind
the learners’ level of experience and understanding. This can be done by not
starting straight away, but first asking some questions relevant to the topic. Use
the information gained from the answers, add examples and illustrations to make
the topic more relevant to the context.
To give an effective lecture –
 Prepare; become very familiar with the subject matter

 Prepare supporting aids to illustrate the points being made
 Provide examples to link the subject to what the learners are doing
 Sequence the contents logically, sequentially and systematically
 Provoke learners to ask questions
 Maintain eye contact to see if they are following, if they are bored, if they
understand
 Keep to the time
 Be aware of your own body movements and facial expressions
 Speak clearly, loudly and use simple language
Demonstrations
Demonstrations refers to that method in which the learners are provided with an
opportunity to observe for themselves the object or processes that they wish to
learn. It can be real-life or through make believe. This method is used in conveying
complex information simply as seeing and understanding is considerably easier
that hearing and understanding.
Field Visits
Field visits refer to demonstrations in situ i.e. where the subject matter actually
occurs are happens in real-life. The emphasis is on observing, asking questions,
and understanding. Learners are not encouraged to participate in the activity
during a field visit. The trainer must remember to prepare the field adequately

before going out on a field visit. Learners also should be briefed about what they
should observe, about behaviour and norms that should be respected.
Practice & Apprenticeship
Practice and Apprenticeship are methods that are of paramount importance for
skill training. The difference between the two is that practice is done in a controlled
environment while apprenticeship is done in real life situations and is of longer
duration. It is also essential in both methods that the learner be supervised by the
trainer and given feedback.

Chapter 4 | SELECTING THE CANDIDATE
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A Sewing Machine Operator in an apparel-manufacturing unit is expected to
have the following qualifications, skills and attitude:
 Education – at least 8th class pass

 Age – between 18 to 30 years
 Physically fit – does not suffer from colour blindness and has good fine
motor skills
 Is hard working, disciplined, neat & clean
The most important is that she or he should
 Should know about garments

 Sew/stitch a seam within the pre-determined standard time
The selection process needs to be such that the candidates who are short-listed
meet most of the above criteria. Since the training program itself will address the
last two requirements, through the selection process we will try and identify those
candidates that meet the remaining criteria.
To ensure that the right candidates are selected, the process may be seen to
have three aspects to it –
. Meets eligibility criteria to participate in the program –

 Is resident in a rural area
 Is counted as belonging to a BPL family
 Is between 18-30 years of age (may be relaxed to 35 years in
special cases)
 Has completed at least 8th class (may be relaxed to 5th class pass in
special cases)
The candidate should be able to provide proof of meeting all the
above eligibility criteria.
2. Finger dexterity and colour blindness tests to meet basic fitness
requirements.
. Personal interaction and interview to assess the candidates’ attitude and

preparedness to participate in the training program and eventually be a

part of the organized work force.
This is the most sensitive and important aspect of the selection process
and has to be managed carefully.
Before we begin our interactions we need to be aware and understand the

socio-cultural and economic contexts of the candidates.
As candidates come from families that are counted as living below-the-poverty-line

(BPL), we should be aware that their life situation is of deprivation and exclusion.
The average family size maybe 5 persons with an average monthly income less
than Rs.1500.00. As per the government criteria, BPL families have little or no
land and few assets such as colour TV, fridge and some household utilitarian
items.
Socially, below-poverty-line persons may belong to those community-groups that

are traditionally oppressed and excluded. As a result of custom-related pressures
access to resources is also limited for many. Therefore, levels of education and
exposure are also low – which contributes to their lack of confidence.
As with any person who is not very self-confident, you will find that most of the
candidates who come for the selection will be quiet and shy, hesitant to ask
questions. To every thing you say they will nod and show that they understand,
but most often they may not follow anything you say.
Therefore, while talking to prospective trainees it is important that you remember

the following:
 Explain the program and the selection process in great detail.

 Use simple language while explaining. Do not use jargon.
 Encourage prospective trainees to ask questions.
 Treat every question and comment with respect.
 Answer the questions you can. If you are not sure of an answer say you
will find out and let them know.

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Women candidates will need special attention. Most often they will not come
alone and may be accompanied by a family member or friend. While conducting
the personal interview ask if you can speak to them alone. If they seem shy or
worried then say that it is ok for the person with them to sit during the interview.
However remind them gently that this is a job-related training program and such
an option will not be encouraged at the place of work.
Conduct the selection tests and interview in an open space or its equivalent
where people can see what is going on. This will reassure all participants, make
the process transparent and will eliminate opportunities for the spread of rumours
and incomplete information.
All selected participants will be asked to fill in an application form and sign an
undertaking. This form will be in the local language.
 Give a copy to the candidate.

 Read it with them.
 Explain each point again.
 Ask them if they have any doubts.
Ensure they understand and are clear about the meaning of enrolling in this
program.
Prepare selected candidates who plan to attend the training. Remind them that
since this training is work-oriented and job placement is its goal, discipline and
order is very important. Therefore, potential participants should
 attend the program regularly; 100% attendance is essential to obtain a

proper grade
 be on time and behave in an orderly fashion; potential employers are very
keen to get disciplined workers
 be ready to take up employment at the end of the training
Garment factory representatives identify people on the range of employment

positions for
The skills they seek and those they actually find in and around the catchments

Basic required skill may be distinguished into technical and non-technical skills.
Social and core skills
 Core skills include the ability to read, write, and perform basic
arithmetic functions.
Beyond these basic skills, factories also mention the importance of varying
degrees of formal education a trainee would have undergone
 Technical skills include the ability to operate fabric spreading and cutting
equipment, sewing machines (e.g., single-needle, double-needle,
overlock, zigzag, cover stitch, bartack, button and button-holing, and more
specialized machines), and pressing equipment, and an understanding of
quality control standards and procedures.
Job applicants may be screened for technical basics such as visual acuity, color
recognition, eye-hand coordination, and manual dexterity.
 Social skills include a wide range of assets that improve the chances of
workforce success, such as the ability to follow a set of oral directions,
communicate clearly, work in teams, take initiative to solve problems, the
willingness to take on new tasks or positions, and an understanding of
workplace rights and responsibilities.
 Industry knowledge starts with a broad understanding of the global
value-chain, in which garment manufacturing sector is situated, to an
appreciation of the role that garment manufacturing and exports play in the
development of the economy,
This above may be desirable because every factory would like to save on the cost
of Training, but as sewing industry requires large number of operators and given
the high turnover and rate of attrition it may not be possible to have large number
of experienced and highly skilled operators
At the entry point sewing Factories have very limited technical skill requirements,
on the production floor, all of them would prefer to hire sewing operators with prior
factory work experience and higher skill levels.
The above factories simply test whether job applicants can sew a Straight line

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using a single-needle machine, although some factories also evaluate sewing
speed, familiarity with double-needle, overlock, and more specialized sewing
machines is a plus.
In the absence of availability of skilled manpower factories also evaluate fresh job
applicants for:
 Hand-eye coordination
 Manual dexterity to handle more complex sewing operations
 Color recognition, visual acuity, pattern recognition
 Basic trainability, ability to listen and correctly respond to a sequence of
technical directions
 Literacy and numeracy: some factories test workers on their ability to
recognize letters or work with numbers, but most acknowledge that it is
extremely difficult to find workers with literacy or numeracy training.
Factories see advantages in training production workers in-house; on the other

hand, factories are also enthusiastic about hiring applicants with some skills.
workers in machine skills, work procedures, and human resources in their first
week or two on the job.
Factories observe workers during the first year of employment and may shift
them between various sewing operations preferably of the same machine type or
task. However, most factories do not expect or desire their production workers to
become multi-skilled. Assigning workers to a single operation minimizes training
costs and the difficulty of replacing departed workers and may also result in higher
productivity from specialization.

DEXTERITY TEST
As mentioned above from the point of view of assessing the basic skill level of
entry point operators we conduct the following tests.
The dexterity can be decided from among the below mentioned test:
A) Peg board Test: consists of four different colours each having space for 25
holes, there are in all 100 holes there are 100 pegs, which are bi colored. The
coloured part of the peg inserted into the respective color zone a straight-line
pattern is followed.
B) Pin Board: There is board with small holes the, candidate is expected to
pick up three pins or nails with one hand to insert them into a single hole using

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only one hand, the insertion has to be in a line wise sequence
C) Tube and marble test: Candidates are supposed to drop marbles through
a tube that corresponds to the size of the marble into a box which has two
compartments and circular holed lid once the thirty marbles are completed
the candidate has to insert the marbles again into the second compartment in
similar manner
D) Needle and thread test. There are 4 rows of needles 4 inches apart row
wise and column wise, the candidate has to thread them continuously in
sequential manner front to back, left to right, left to right.
E) Sewing Machine control test; this can be done where sewing machines
already exists. The test is explained in the Trainers Manual.
F) Diagrams from Colour Blindness chart which has numbers written
inside a dotted diagrammatic area. The candidate has to identify that number.

Instructions from the book need to be followed for identifying Colour-blind. For
people who do not understand English we ask them to match the numbers from
the written sheet to those in the diagram. We may also seek the assistance of a
qualified Doctor, whenever required.
G) Subjective Evaluation and candidates readiness to join the programme
and undertake the placement is also judged at moment.
LOTED (IN SEC)

TOTAL TIME AL-
MARKS / RIGHT
MAX MARKS
TEST NAME
POSSIBLE
SECOND /
CYCLES
SR. NO
TOTOL
CYCLE
CYCLE
1 PEG BOARD 1 100 100 0.3 30
2 PINBOARD 2.5 50 125 0.5 25
3 NEEDLE THREAD 4 15 60 1 15
4 MARBLE AND TUBE 1 60 60 0.5 30
TOTAL MARKS 100
The scoring pattern is as mentioned above in the table, above-mentioned all the
test can be done or selectively done as per the availability of machine / kits.
The passing score is from 40 to 50 and does involves amount of subjectivity.

Interviewing the candidates for their readiness to take up employment
after training.
Each candidate has to be explained and each candidate has to made

comfortable.

Chapter 5 | OVERLOCK MACHINE
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OVERLOCK MACHINE (FROM BOOKLET FOR
TRAINEES)
A.) Overlock sewing machine

The overlook sewing machine sewing machine is a useful sewing machine in
various ways such as over edging, overlapped seaming, etc. This machine serves
as a basis of making the garment together with the lockstitch sewing machine.
There are various models of the overlook sewing machine in accordance with the
use, namely, 1-needle, 2 to 3 thread overlock sewing machine, and 2-needle, 2 to
5 thread overlook sewing machine or safety stitch sewing machine.
Start Pedal Presser Pedal

B.) Structure
There is a motor under the sewing machine table; there are a start pedal and a
presser-lifting pedal
When depressing the start pedal, the motor runs, and the, force is conveyed to the
hand wheel of the sewing machine main unit through the belt. There is not much
difference between this machine and the lockstitch sewing machine. However,
the most different point of this machine from the lockstitch sewing machine is that
the looper in place of the hook works to make the seam.
Other different points from the lockstitch sewing machine are as follows.
. Upper and lower knives are attached near the needle. The machine makes
the overedging while the knives are cutting the material end.
2. Raising and lowering of the presser foot is operated by the presser-lifting
pedal. There is a presser lifting foot in place of a knee lifter
. Adjustment of the stitch length can be performed by the pulley located at

the right side of the frame and the stitch length-adjusting button.
2. Feed dog is separated in two parts, main feed dog and differential feed
dog. As a result, gathering stitch and stretching stitch can be made. It is
suited, therefore, to the materials, which stretch to a great extent.
C.) Basic instructions to operate an Overlock machine

. Sit in front of the sewing machine with the correct pose of body. Basically,
sitting is the same as that for the lockstitch sewing machine.
2. Put the right foot on the presser-lifting pedal.
. Put the left foot on the start pedal.
. Turn ON the switch button.
5. Hold two pieces of cloth with the left hand, and put one upon another
exactly with both hands. Simultaneously, depress the pedal, and the
presser with the right foot, and raise the presser foot.
. Insert the cloth under the presser foot with the left hand; decrease the

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depressing force of the right foot on the pedal, and the presser foot
comes down.
7. Press the cloth located on the cloth plate section of the sewing machine
with left hand, and support the two pieces of cloth approximately 20 cm in
front of the sewing machine with the right hand.
8. Depress the front part of the start pedal with the left foot to operate the
sewing machine. At the beginning make the depressing force of the pedal
low [rotation is slow]. After accustomed to the speed, increase depressing
force to become accustomed to the speed of the sewing machine.
9. When the right hand holding the cloth comes to cloth plate section of the
sewing machine, decrease the depressing force of the pedal, and the
sewing machine stops. [Feel that the toe is raised.]
0. Return both the hands to the home position and start the sewing machine
. When the sewing is over, stop the sewing machine
2. Hold the chain-off thread of the cloth end, and hang| on the thread trimmer
to cut it.
Practice the operation of the overlock sewing machine in accordance with the
aforementioned procedures.
. Prepare two pieces of the cloth of 20 cm long and 30 cm wide in

approximation.
2. Practice repeatedly while cutting off the overedging allowance.
. The midway stop of the sewing machine should be once during one cycle
of the practice. (It is approximately 15 cms from the start of the machine)

D.) Learning to attach a needle

Step 1: By turning the hand wheel clockwise, bring the needle to its highest
position, lift the needle guard upwards and turn the presser foot to the left
hand side
Step 2: Loosen the needle holder screw
Step 3: With a tweezers in the left hand insert the needle in the needle holder
such that the long groove faces you
Step 4: Fully insert the needle until it hits the end of the needle hole, tighten the
needle screw, and put the presser foot and the needle guard back to its original
position.

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F.) Threading an overlock machine
a.) Lower looper b.) Upper looper c.) Needle
In an overlock machine the threading goes in the following sequence
Lower looper threading Mechanism

Upper looper threading Mechanism
Needle threading mechanism

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FOR THE TRAINER
From the above the Trainees need to be familiarized in the following areas
A.) Structure of the machine
B.) Differences vis a vis Lock Stitch Machine
C.) Threading in the prescribed standard time
D.) Effect of Tension
E.) Practice on the machine as per the prescribed exercise
IMPORTANT EXERCISE
F.) Devise exercises to improve control of the trainee on the machine
G.) Make Samples to exhibit various defects in overlock

Chapter 6 | SESSION PLAN
Do you need a session plan? Yes!

Sound planning and preparation are the keys to successful delivery.
In your session plan you need to provide the documentation for the session
structure. It helps you keep track of where the session is going and where it has
been. It can also save a lot of time when you need to present the same lesson
again.
When you first begin to teach, your session plans will probably be quite formal
and detailed. As you gain experience with both the subject matter and the process
of teaching and learning, you’ll find yourself writing your plan out in your own form
of ‘shorthand’. This is OK. The important thing is not the document itself, but
the process of planning and reflecting on how you will scaffold learning for your
students.
You will need to look at a range of things when you plan how to best help your
students learn.
What should a session plan include?

 Topic/name of session
 Session goal
 Session outcomes
 Length of session
 Timing of session components
 Key points of session
 Session content
 Learning activities and delivery methods
 Resources and facilities.
Guidelines to making a session plan

 Review the K Yan Content Time
 Try to analyse approximately how many times the K yan will have to be run
 Approximately estimate time for re cap & revision
 Never do preparatory work during the session eg. cutting, threading etc

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 You will always need more time than required
 Make a format
 Observe the body language of the trainee
 If you need to deviate, deviate but have the time in mind
 Make it more practical & Interactive
 Try to devise feed back
Topics Time Estimated Topics Time Actual

1
2
3
4
Topics that could not be covered
Remarks
 Review
 Redesign

Reviewing and monitoring trainees
Name of the trainee Operation
TRAINEE ASSESMENT
STANDARD RE-
EXERCISE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 DATE
TIME MARKS

Remember, failing to plan is planning to fail!
Designing a Training Module Practical Exercises

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From the Topics covered design a training module
For the following
i. Attachment of pocket & Flap of a shirt
ii. Making a Shirt collar and attaching it
iii. Bottom hemming of Shirt
iv. Attaching Cuff
v. Attaching & Top Stitching Sleeve
vi. Making Front Pockets of a Trouser
vii. Making Welt Pocket of a Trouser
viii. Attaching Zip of a trouser
ix. Side Seaming and top stitching a trouser
x. Bottom Hemming of a Trouser
xi. Hemming Sleeves & Bottom of a Polo Shirt
xii. Making Placket of a Polo Shirt
xiii. Making Slit of a Polo Shirt
xiv. Attaching Collar of a Polo Shirt
xv. Side Seam of a Polo Shirt

Chapter7|QUALITYCONCEPTSTOBEFOLLOWEDINTHEGARMENTINDUSTRY
QUALITY
“The quality is nothing but providing the customer what he/she has never dreamt
of, forget alone specifying the need for it, however having consumed the product
the customer must feel that he/she wanted it all along”
or
“Quality is nothing but conformance to requirements”
or
“Fitness for use”
Why Quality? This is what US Congress says about importance

of Quality
“It is important we recognize a significant portion of our trade deficits is due to the
ability of foreign competitors to deliver higher quality products that are either novel,
less costly to produce, promise better service or some combination of the above.
What finally sank into US industry is the tremendous cost of ignoring quality.
In most traditional factories that cost is probably the biggest item on their list
of expenses, and it is always bigger than gross profit. But because the cost of
quality of rarely broken out in gory detail, management has no idea of its true
dimensions. When quality audits are performed, they invariably uncover huge
“hidden plants” staffed and equipped just to find and fix defective products.
The typical factory invests a staggering 20% to 25% of its operating budget in
findings and fixing mistakes.
As many as one-quarter of all factory hands don’t produce anything – they just
rework things that were not done right the first time. Add in the expense of repairing
or replacing the flawed products that slip out of the factory and into or more of
production costs.

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What is Cost of quality ?
Juran defines Cost of Quality as :
“Cost of poor quality consists of those costs that would disappear if our products
and processes were perfect.”
Philip Crosby describes Cost of Quality as :
‘Quality is measured by cost, which is the expense of non conformance-the cost

of doing things wrong. These costs are divided into prevention, appraisal and
failure categories.
Failure Costs
The costs generated when defective products are shipped to customers
(External)
 Repair
 Warranty Claims
 Complaints
 Returns
 Liability
Failure Costs
The costs associated with defective products, components and materials that fail
to meet quality requirements and result in manufacturing losses.
 SCRAP
 Rework or Rectification
 Down Grading
 Failure Analysis

Distribution of Total Cost of Quality

3.67% - EXTERNAL FAILURE
COST AS % OF TOTAL COST
2.28% - INTERNAL FAILURE

COST AS % OF TOTAL COST
26.52% - APPRAISAL COST

AS % OF TOTAL COST
67.56% - PREVENTION COST

AS % OF TOTAL COST
What does this mean in terms of potential savings ?

Even if the organization manages to bring down the Cost of Quality to 14% of
sales turnover from the current 18.01%, per annum
If it sets for itself a target of Cost of Quality at 6% of sales
The savings could be Rs. 4,59,61000.
There is a strong case of initiating a Quality Improvement Program aimed at

reducing Cost of Quality and improving profitability.

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Understanding AQL:
 Inspection
 How much to inspect?
 What is AQL?
 How to succeed?
Quality can’t be inspected

in. It has to be produced
right first time.
CT
REJE
IR
REPA
EP T
AC C
If not used intelligently, inspection only add cost and

becomes similar to a wire mesh filter (Jali) used for filtering sand

Inspection
“Visual examination or review of raw material (such as fabric, buttons, zippers,
sewing threads, trims etc.), partly finished components of, the garments and
completely finished garments in relation to some standard, specifications or
requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the
required measurements”
Introduction to Quality Control for Apparel Industry

How much to inspect?
 No Inspection
 Small Sample
 Large Sample
 100% Inspection
 Prior knowledge about the acceptability of quality
 Inherently Uniform process
 Homogeneous product
 Absence of prior knowledge
 Results of sampling show high defect rate
 Process not uniform
100% Inspection Test

Please perform 100% Inspection of the given product as per the specifications
provided and report the results
What is an Acceptance Plan?

 Set of procedures for inspecting incoming materials or finished goods?
 Identifies
 Type of sample (e.g. Single/Double/Multiple)
 Sample size (n)

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 Criteria (c) used to reject or accept a lot
 Producer (supplier) &. consumer (buyer) must negotiate what will
constitute GOOD and BAD quality
Sources of Variation Defect types

Critical
 The defect that could render the item totally unfit for use or result in
hazardous or unsafe condition for individual using or maintaining the item.
Major
 Defect other that materially reduce the usability of the product for its
intended purpose.
Minor
 Defect that materially do not reduce the usability of the product for its
intended purpose
Defect vs Defective
This piece of cloth is

defective, because it has
atleast one defect
3 Defects
AQL
“The AQL is the maximum percent defective (or the maximum number of defects
per 100 units) that, for purposes of sampling inspection, can be considered

satisfactory as a process average”
In layman’s language this means, when a buyer specifies a particular AQL for
sampling inspection, it is an indication that as long as the percentage of defective
garments in the shilpments (lots) supplied by a manufacturer is lower than the
AQL, most of the shipments will be accepted.
Acceptable quality level (AQL)

. Quality level of a good lot
2. producer (supplier) does not want lots with fewer defects than AQL to
be rejected
Lot Tolerance Percent Defective (LTPD)

“The LTPD is the largest proportion of defects that a consumer is willing to accept
a very small percentage of the time. Also represented as
• RQL (Rejecting Quality level),
• LQL (Limiting Quality level)
AQL

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How to succeed in AQL based final inspection by customers
 Ensure that your Process Average is less than AQL level
 This means assuming your customer inspects the shipment at AQL 2.5
then the average percent of defective products in your shipments level has
to be less than 2.5%
 How to find out Process Average
 After garment lots have been 100% checked in finishing room, draw
sample based on same AQL as your buyer and inspect all the pieces in
the sample. Record the number of defective pieced and percent defective
for that lot.
 Continue this practice for about 300 lots
 The calculate the average of percent defective recorded in the 300 lots.
This is your process average. If this is greater than AQL level you need to
take action towards bringing this down.
Building Quality Through Internal Customer - Supplier Chain

 Every body has customers and every body has suppliers
 Every body has to be involved in delivering quality
 Right now do we have customers and suppliers in this hall?
 Do we aim to satisfy our customers or we create problems for them?
 If we satisfy internal customers, the chances are that we will be able to
satisfy the end customer

Customer Supplier Chain

Indicative and Non Exhaustive
Customers Apparel Manufacturing Orgamisation Suppliers
Product & Fabric & Trim

Marketing Design
Proto Dev Sourcing
Store
Wear
Spreading &
House & Finishing Sewing
Cutting
Shiping
The Process Chain
OUTPUT
Customer Supplier Customer Supplier
INPUT
PROCESS ‘A’ PROCESS ‘B’
 Output of previous process becomes input to next process.

 No substandard input to be given to any process.
 No process shall allow substandard output to come out.
 Treat the next process as your valued customer.

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Prof. Bheda’s Process Model for Sewing
MOTIVATED PEOPLE
QUALITY QUALITY
INPUT OUTPUT
KNOW-HOW
= =
SKILLS
RAW MATERIAL PROCESSED
TRAINING COMPONENT
+
OR
SPECIFICATIONS PLANT & MACHINERY GARMENTS
This is how most departments work This is how we need to work
Can we work as a Team

How often we work as a Team:
who should be responsible for creating team culture in an

organization
For successful implementation of Total Quality in an organization you need

three things:
. Top management commitment

2. Top management commitment
. Top management commitment

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Reasons for Failure
 Belief that quality starts with inspection and ends with inspection
 Mainly quantity driven targets for the departments
 Departmental goals may not synergize with organizational goal
 Have no idea about the Cost of Quality in their organization
 Do not have a clear quality policy nor do they demonstrate commitment to
quality
 Employees of these orgal1izations are well aware of the 'Chalta Hai'
approach of the management
 To the extent possible they would like to blame others for the quality
problems of their merchandise
Steps for Organisation Specific Quality Improvement Program

 Analyse the data generated from strengthened appraisal & carry out
statistical analysis
 Initiate preventive actions on critical defect generating areas
 Establish procedures and overall systems and measure improvements
 Top management should review the results and plan further course of
action for which the total process can be followed allover again

Chapter 8 | FACTORY COMPLIANCE
FACTORY COMPLIANCE:
Any small, Medium, and large scale industries follow a specific set of international
standards, and follow the rules and regulations according to the laws mentioned
in it, and implement the laws in their management systems, then the organization
is said to be in full compliance with the standards.
SOCIAL Accountability
Social Accountability is the terminology created as a business response of any
company to take care of the employees and employer satisfaction. They also
benefit the company in their business by maximizing the profit, and maintain good
relationship between
 Employees
 Community
 Government
 Non-Government organizations
 Management
 Stakeholders
 Owners

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Social Accountability programs are often called as a “FACTORY MONITORING
OR CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY”.
At the end of the World War II, The International labour conference adopted a
declaration that all Human beings, irrespective of race, creed or sex, have the
right to pursue both their material well-being and their spiritual development in
conditions of freedom and dignity, of economic security and equal opportunity.
It also referred to the social aspect of economic and financial measures. The
Declaration then defined a number of specific objectives of the international
labour conference.
 Employment for all and raising the standard of living.

 Providing the facilities for training in regard to wages, Hours of work and
other conditions of work, calculated to ensure a just share of progress for all.
 Effective recognition of the Unions and their rights.
 The co-operation of management and workers in the continuous
improvement of productive efficiency.
 Collaboration of workers and employer in the preparation and application
of social and economic measures, social security measures, basic income,
medical care etc.
Many Businesses had already begun to recognize the commercial advantages
in adopting a social responsible practice. Now the companies have created their
own "Codes of Conduct"
SIGNIFICANCE AND MEANING:

PURPOSE
The Driving force behind the idea of international labour law was the idea of Social
justice. In the field of labour, the humanitarian concern originally appeared in the
face of conditions of great hardship imposed on the workers by industrialization.
It was the main motive of creating this movement. The first achievement was the
adoption on both and national and international levels of measures to protect
children from conditions of work that had shocked the public conscience.

The Expression “Social Justice” was introduced in the year 1919 in the peace
conference. The function of the international labour standards is to promote
balanced economic and social progress. Even when the labour legislation or
practice of a country has reached a certain level, it may be desirable for the
country to ratify a convention suitable for its own national situation.
As a result of new laws, Improvements were visible in economic, commercial,

technological, social and even cultural changes that have taken place in the past
two decades. In spite of this, Governments have been making new laws for their
labour legislation to meet new needs and accommodate new circumstances. By
making strong laws on labour conditions, social peace can be established on the
concept of peace, involving the establishment of stable, just, and harmonious
conditions between different countries.
Yet, many forces threaten progress. Extremism -religious, ethnic, and political
- is on the rise, often fuelled by growing disparities in the levels of development.
Despite the growth of democratic forms of government, violations of human rights
continue in too many countries. The number of armed conflicts currently increasing,
and the threat of Nuclear war between the countries exist, and there is always a
concern of nuclear weapons loosely controlled by the weak governments.

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STANDARD
Due to the rising public concern about the inhumane working conditions in
developing countries, led to the creation of “Council of Economic priorities and
Accreditation Agency” (CEPAA). Its purpose was to draw a Universal code or
practice for labour conditions in manufacturing industry, so that consumers in
the developed countries could be confident that the goods they were buying had
been produced in accordance with the recognized set of Standards.
CORE ELEMENT OF SOCIAL ACCOUNTABILITY

CHIlD LABOUR
As per the international labour law, and the United Nation’s convention of child
labour, emphasis on the child worker’s rights. It says no worker under the age
of 15, minimum lowered to 14, prescribed by the local law, and the international
convention is eligible to work in any organization. The Convention also focuses
on compulsory education for the children allover the world. Nearly 5 million child
workers are found in Asia alone, working under very harsh conditions.
Factors Contributing to the Child labour

 Poverty
 Family Compulsion
 Illiteracy
 Unawareness of the local law
 Social obligation
Factors that attracts companies towards Child labour

 Low Wages
 Can extract work for longer hours
 Suitable for small operations like embroidery, Carpet work etc.
 No Union or employee problems
 Adaptability to work in any condition.

Factors that affects child Labourers

 Verbal abuse
 Physical abuse
 Sexual abuse
 Deprived of primary and secondary education
 Exposure to hazardous working area
 Deprived of healthy food, which makes them physically unfit.
 Exposed to unhealthy working area, which attracts biological diseases.
Factors to prevent child labour

 Enforce strict law and implement it
 Create awareness about the child labour to the citizens
 Impartial legal proceedings against organizations that employ child
labourers
 By drafting powerful standard to eradicate child labour
 Convincing the organizations about the demerits and legal obligations of
child labour
 Creating awareness to the consumers to buy only socially accountable
products
 Emphasizing the businesses to work with socially acceptable standards
FORCED LABOUR
The International labour organization has formed a constitution and has attained a
convention on forced labour in the year 1930 with article No.29. It says to suppress
all activities on forced and compulsory labour in all forms. Certain exceptions
are permitted such as military services in which convict labourers, properly
supervised in the emergencies such as wars, fires, earthquake etc. In December
1997, 145 countries have accepted this convention. In the article No.105 of ILO, it
prohibits the use of compulsory labour by means of political coercion, punishment
for expressing political views, labour discipline, and punishment for participation
in strikes or discrimination. In December 1997, 130;countries accepted this

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convention. Forced labour in any form of bonded labour, prison labour, or Slave
labour is prohibited.
Caused for the Forced labour

 Due to the Demand of huge manpower to carry out tough tasks.
 Maximizing the profit
 Greediness of wealth
 Exploiting the Social negligence on forced labour
 To complete with the growing competition in the industry
 Rivalry between the countries to dominate the market.
Factors to prevent Forced labour

 Creating the awareness among the workers about the labour law
 Creating Unity among the workers relating to their issues
 Adopting a unified legislation aimed at improving the labour standards
 Enforcing better laws related to labour standards
 Creating awareness about the commercial advantages of following a
social policy.
HEALTH AND SAFETY

The International labour conference emphasis the need to provide safe and
healthy work environment, take steps to prevent injuries; regular health and safety
check-up; system to detect threats to health and safety; access to bathrooms and
potable water. The ILO, and SA8000 focusses the need for basic infrastructure in
the companies, and provide access to the workers. Companies that are producing
hazardous chemicals, heavy machineries, High voltage equipments, combustible
products, should make essential Health and safety precautions for the workers
like, adequate exits, Respiratory masks, gloves, First Aid equipments, Fire
gadgets, etc.,

Factors contributing to health and safety hazards

 Workers exposed to hazardous working area without adequate safety
measures
 Working with Heavy machineries without protective clothes, and
shockproof materials.
 Improper remedial measures in the case of an accident
 In-sufficient exits in the case of a fire accident
 Improper sanitary conditions may contribute biological diseases
 In-sufficient first aid gadgets in the companies
Factors to Prevent Health-and safety Hazards

 Providing best infrastructure
 Maintaining the shop-floor with sufficient exposure
 Properly maintained equipment and machineries
 Creating worker awareness about the safety measures to be taken in the
industry
 Ensuring that the worker is accessible to clean potable water, and
bathrooms
 Improving the confidence level among the worker about the company and
its policy
Periodical training and performance evaluation, could prevent accidents in the
company

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DISCRIMINATION
No discrimination based on race, caste, origin, religion, disability, gender, sexual
orientation, union, or political affiliation, or age; No sexual harassment, must be
practiced in any organization according to the international labour organization.
FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION AND COLLECTIVE

BARGAINING
As per SA Standards, Any worker is free to join any union, and the employer does
not reserve the right of directing the workers towards any union. It establishes
the right of all workers and employers to form and join organizations of their
own choosing, without prior authorization, and lays down a series of guarantees
for the free functioning of organizations without -interference by the public
authorities. In December 1997, 121 countries had ratified this convention. It
provides for protection against anti-union discrimination, for protection of workers
and employers organizations against acts of interference by each other, and for
measures to promote collective bargaining. In December 1997, 137 countries
had ratified this convention.

Factors that avoid freedom of association

 Suppressive Managements
 Autocratic Governments
 Fear of Political influence in the factories
 Fear of reduction in profits
 Expenses incurred in providing infrastructure to the workers
WORKING HOURS
The International Labour Organization states that most workers should not
have to work more than 48 hours a week on average, with at least one day off
for every seven-day period. The Employer cannot force a worker to work more
than 48 hours, without his acceptance. Voluntary overtime paid at a premium
rate and not to exceed 12 hours per week on a regular basis; overtime may be
mandatory if it is a part of collective bargaining agreement. Some people are
not covered by these rules. They are follows.
 Police, Army and Civil protection

workers
 Trainees Doctors
 Domestic Servants in private
houses

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A worker can work more than 48 hours if he accepts it, but it has to be informed to
the Employer about his willingness in writing. It is the duty of the employer to have
a record, to show that the employee has agreed to do overtime. Whenever the
worker changes his mind to stop working overtime, he has to give his employer a
notice period of 7 days. If the worker is been working over 48 hours a week and
he wants to stop, His pay will be reduced.
If the Employer tries to force the worker to work more than 48 hours a week, he
will be breaking the law. If the employer tries to treat the worker unfairly, dismisses
him or makes him victimized, the worker has all the right to complain it to the
local authority, and to the employment tribunal. Before approaching Employment
tribunal, the worker must raise his written grievance with the employer first.
Even though the worker is eligible for leaves, some leaves will not be calculated
while calculating the average working hours. They are Holiday leave, Sick leave,
Maternity leave, paternity leave, Adoption, parental leave, Lunch breaks, journey
to work, etc.
COMPENSATION
Wages paid for a standard workweek must meet the legal and industry standards
and be sufficient to meet the basic need of workers and their families; No
disciplinary deductions. The International labour organization emphasis on equal
pay for equal work. The UDHR also urges the companies to provide decent pay
package for the workers to support their families. The worker is also eligible to
claim his EPF, House rent allowance, Travel allowance, and retirement package.
Apart from the standard wages the company can also compensate the worker
in the form of Bonus, incentives, salary hike, to ensure retention of the skilled
workers, and can expect sincerity from the worker.

DISCIPLINARY PRACTICES
The company does not reserve the right to take any disciplinary action on the
worker, unless legally bounded. The International. The International law does not
provide the provision for the company to
 Make any disciplinary deductions in the wages

 Physically abusing the worker for any breach of discipline
 Depriving him of the benefits as an account of disciplinary action
 Harassment of the worker as a disciplinary action.
MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS
The Social Management system is important in any organization for maintaining
the standards, documents, and to address any non-compliance issues, to care of
the stakeholders, workers, and ensure the smooth functioning of the organization.
They also check for the non-conformal issues, its root causes, be it either from
internal or external sources, find remedial measures to address the Issues, and
practice best ethics, take decisions based on the social policy, to the do social
responsible business, and raise confidence among people associated with the
organization.
WORKPLACE POLICY
A workplace policy is a set of well-defined procedure to be followed in any
organization. It is a statement of purpose and a broad guideline, which acts as
a reference when there is any problem in the industry. A policy may be required
where there is a diversity of interests and preferences. It is a standard operating
procedure in a workplace. Well-written policies help employers manage staff
more effectively by defining more acceptable and unacceptable behavior in the
workplace.

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BENEFITS OF WORKPLACE POLICIES
 It improves the value of the organization and employment legislation.
 Demonstrates the efficiency of the organization.
 It ensures uniformity and easy in decision making process, and operational
procedures.
 Adds strength to the staff, and basic workers.
 Saves time when there is any problem.
 It improves stability and continuity, and maintains good working
environment.
 It assists in measuring the accountability and performance of the
organization.
 It clearly defines the roles and responsibilities of the employees.
STEPS TO DEVELOP WORKPLACE POLICY

The following steps helps to ensure that the workplace policies are successfully
introduced and implemented in the workplace.
1. Consult with the staff
 By involving the staff in developing and implementing the workplace

policies, promote awareness, bitter understanding and good working
environment. Staff involvement also helps to determine where and when
the policies may apply and its consequences.

2. Define the terms of the policy
 The terms and conditions of the policy should be clear and

understandable. The key terms should be defined in the beginning of the
policy, so that the employees can clearly understand what is meant. It also
explains what is acceptable and unacceptable behaviour in the workplace.
Examples of the acceptable and unacceptable behaviour can also be
mentioned. The policy must be clear about to whom does it apply to.
3. Publicise the policy
 Policies should be written in plain English and easily understood by all

employees. To be effective, policies need to be publicised and provided to
all existing and new employees. Policies can also be translated to other
languages to facilitate employees to understand easily.
4. Training and Regular Referral
 The policies may be explained to staff through information and through

training sessions. Copies of the policies should be easily accessible. It can
be made available through mail, or intranet systems. It will encourage the
employees, when CEO, senior managers and supervisors take the policies
seriously. The new staff should also be advised to follow the policy, and
keep undated with the organization’s operation procedures.
5. Implementation
 It is more important to implement the policy than to create a new

policy. It must be monitored that the policies are applied throughout the
organization. Anyone, who fails to follow, should be dealt with impartially
according to the procedures mentioned in the policy. It can be warning,
disciplinary action, or dismissal of any employee.

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6. Evaluate and Review
 Reviewing the policies according to the changes in the organization is

very important for smooth functioning in it. The Changes made must be
communicated with the employees, so that they can understand the new
direction of the organization.
POLICY CHECKLIST
Any policy should contain the following points, and must be clearly publicized in
the organization through Internet, notice board, or through the meetings.
 Aim of the policy

 Reason for creating the policy
 To whom does it applies to
 Explain acceptable and unacceptable behaviour
 Action to be taken, if not complying with the policy
 Date of creating or updating the policy.

TYPES OF WORKPLACE POLICIES

 Code of Conduct policy
 Recruitment policy
 Internet and Email policy
 Mobile phone policy
 Non-smoking policy
 Drug and Alcohol policy
 Health and safety policy
 Anti-Discrimination and Harassment policy
 Grievance handling policy
 Documents – suggestion – Thmia
 Discipline and termination policy
SAMPLE WORKPLACE POLICIES

Leave Policy
The Company closed for one week during the Diwali period every year. All
employees will be given notice period of 2 weeks prior to the holiday period. All
employees are allowed to take leave during that period. The company considers
the one-week as a paid leave, beyond which the leave will be considered as
leave without pay. All Employees will receive paid leave during national holidays,
and public holidays.
Dress Policy
The Company advises all its employees (both male and female), to be present
inside the factory premises with the standard uniform (Grey Trousers and White
shirt) along with Identification card, Black shoes, and safety gadgets. No Casuals
are allowed inside the factory premises, including T-shirt, Half pant, Hipster
pants, mid-riff tops, Jeans and earrings. Formal dressings are allowed inside
administrative building only.
Internet and E-mail Policy
Employees are allowed to access the Internet only for work-related purposes,

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sending and receiving e-mails, transaction of the folders within the organization,
sending and receiving of confidential documents within the organization, and are
allowed to access the websites related to work only. Employees are strongly
discouraged to visit objectionable websites like pornographic materials, criminal
material, trade secrets, sensitive information, gambling, downloading movies,
songs, and conducting illegal activities.
Smoking Policy
The Company declares the whole area, including administrative building, shop
floor, and storeroom, Generator room, Terrace of the building, lawn, lounge (both
men and women) as smoking free area. The company has zero tolerance with
any breach of law, and any violation attracts penalty, or disciplinary action from
the management.
Drug and Alcohol Policy
As the company is serious about the health and safety about its employees,
employees’ working under the influence of the alcohol is liable for disciplinary
action, as the blood alcohol should not exceed 0.05% for the healthy human
being. The company also advises its employees to work zero alcohol influence,
as they not only harm themselves, but also lead to serious accidents.
SOCIAL AUDIT PLANNING:

COMPLIANCE AUDIT
A Systematic, Independent and documented verification process of obtaining and
evaluating audit evidence to determine whether specified criteria are met.
DEFINITIONS
AUDITTEE
An auditee is a person or an organisation being audited.
AUDITOR
A person or a team who audits the organisation is termed as an Auditor.

FOCUSSED AUDITS
An Audit conducted on any particular activity or process or any discharges of the

auditee is called focused audit.
MONITOR
To systematically and repeatedly measure a parameter to track the changes or

establish procedure for current conditions.
LEAD AUDITOR
The Auditor who heads the team of auditors auditing the organisation.
NON-COMPLIANCE
If the clear evidence has been collected to demonstrate that a particular

requirement has not been complied, and is within the scope of the audit, then the
organisation is said to be in non-compliance with the requirement.
COMPLIANCE
If the clear evidence has been collected to demonstrate that a particular

requirement has been compiled, and is within the scope of the audit, then the
organisation is said to be in compilance with the requirement.
CHECKLIST :
Lists of all the activities, processes to be addressed during the audit including
a list of elements to audited and the type of observations to be made to assess
compliance.
AUDIT PLANNING
In achieving a successful audit, the value of good planning and preparation
cannot be avoided. Proper planning should ensure that appropriate resources
and equipment are available and time is allocated to carry out the audit in the
most efficient and effective way.
 An Audit plan should include the following key elements:

 Audit Objectives

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 Audit criteria
 Audit Scope
 Quality plan
 Assesment of Logistics
 Audit Timetable
 Roles and Responsibilities of the team members
 Allocation of proper resources the audit
AUDIT OBJECTIVES
The objective of the audit is to define what achieve and can be based on various
considerations such as management priorities, local legal requirements. It
establishes the method for each compliance audit.
The audit criteria are the defined requirements against which the auditor compares
collected audit evidence. The criteria may include regulatory requirements,
standards, guidelines or any specified requirements. The criteria also include any
proof, which is obtained during the audit, and the auditor can stop the audit, if the
found proof is a serious breach of the local legal law, and can notify the matter to
the corresponding authorities.
SCOPE OF THE AUDIT

The scope of the audit defines the extent and boundaries of the audit such as
locations, organisational units, activities and process to be audited, and the time
period covered by the audit.
QUALITY PLAN
The quality plan identifies the quality assurance procedures that will be undertaken
during the audit.

LOGISTICS FOR CONDUCTING THE AUDIT

The Lead auditor should be aware of all the local legal requirements and safety
requirements before conducting the audit. He should be aware of the number staff
needed for conducting the audit. The auditor must determine whether there are
any potential problems in carrying out the audit. He must also be aware whether
the bad weather could hamper the inspection.
AUDIT TIMETABLE
The Audit timetable should include the date and places where on-site activities will
be conducted, and the expected time and duration of each activity including the
opening meeting, safety induction when necessary, site inspection and closing
meeting.
SELECTING THE AUDIT TEAM AND ROLES OF TEAM

MEMBERS
The Lead auditor should determine whether other personal should be involved
in the audit process. The officers who have the working knowledge of the
auditee should be involved in the process from the beginning of audit planning,
provide background information, and if necessary, accompany the auditor on the
inspection. The Team members may assist with the audit evaluations, comment
on draft reports and provide suggestions for corrective actions. Technical experts
may be called in to provide specialist knowledge.
ALLOCATING APPROPRIATE RESOURCES

The Lead Auditor needs to ensure that the officers required for the audit are
available for the day, and ensure that sufficient resources are made available for
the audit to be undertaken.

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AUDIT CHECKLISTS
The Audit checklist assists auditors in conducting a thorough, systematic and
consistent audit. Checklists are used to guide on-stie observations and help the
auditor to assess whether evidence meets audit criteria. Checklists are used for
auditor purpose and do not force the company to fulfill what is been mentioned in
it. When developing a checklist, the Lead auditor should consider the experience
and knowledge of the auditor who will be using it, and the risks involved in the audit.
Even, less experienced auditors can use a detailed checklist that lists everything
they need to know and do, with less supervision from the lead auditor.

SAMPLE AUDIT PLAN

Date : ………………………………………….
Name of auditee : ………………………………………….
Address : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Date of (proposed) audit inspection : ………………………………………….
File no : ………………………………………….
Lead auditor : ………………………………………….
Support auditors : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Audit criteria : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Audit Scope : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Quality plan : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Audit logistics : ………………………………………….
(i.e. travel required, limitations on entry to
premises, quarantine requirements) ………………………………………….

………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Audit timetable : ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Roles and responsibilities of : ………………………………………….
audit team members ………………………………………….
………………………………………….
Resources allocation : ………………………………………….
(i.e., budget, personnel) ………………………………………….
………………………………………….

Chapter 9 | INDUSTRIAL SAFETY
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INDUSTRIAL SAFETY:
A. General View
Promotion of safety in the workplace require the co-operation of the employers
and the employees. Every manager and supervisors has a legal obligation to
protect the health and safety of the operatives at work. Every source of danger
has to be removed or at least recognized and marked as one. Safety procedures
and guidelines have to be written down in a safety manual, and included in the
training of operatives. Effective elimination of health hazards, and prevention of
industrial accidents requires strict attention by employers as well as employees.
As an employer, he/she:
 Should provide adequate training and information

 Should provide adequate protective equipment
 Should obey and follow the laws or regulations related to safety
As an employee:
 Has reasonable care been taken for the health and safety of yourself and
of other persons?
 Is personal protective equipment available? If yes, do you understand why
it is required, how to use it, its limitations, and how to keep it maintained?
 Do you dress properly at work?
 Have you ever tampered with safety guards or devices?
 Have you adopted "short-cut" method in performing your job?
 Do you have adequate training on safe working practices?
B. Safety on operating Sewing Machine and other machines

Before exchange the bobbin case, you should make sure the power was
switched off.

Motor with no cover
It is dangerous to operate a sewing machine without cover on its motor.
Motor with cover:
A good cover on the motor is similar to this one. It prevents the garment pieces
from touching the belt accidentally.
C. Lighting
Lighting is an essential provision for any workplace. It is preferable to provide
uniform illumination over the entire workplace by combining both natural and
artificial light. Good lighting helps us to see and to recognize hazards. It also can
reduce visual strain and discomfort which may affect the performance and health
of workers.
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In buildings or factory, artificial lighting is essential for work. There should be
facilities for general lighting, localized or local lighting to suit different purposes.
General lighting is designed for movement and casual work. Localized lighting
provides more intense illumination at the sewing workstation.
Daylight is the best and cheapest source of illumination. It can reduce the energy
costs but should be planned in the early stage of building design to maximize its
application. Making improvements in the later stage may be costly.
We should note that:
 Light sources should be well located, illuminating the workplace as well as

entrances and corridors.
 A workplace should have a comfortable and uniform illumination.
 Fine work usually need more light but too much light can cause eye-
strains.
 Extra light can be avoided by removing lights from your field of vision or by
reducing the light intensity.
 The optimum lighting for normal desk work is between 300 and 500 lux.
 Use local lights that are easy to clean and to maintain for precision such
as sewing workstation.
Glare can be avoided by:
 Reposition your workstation to prevent broad-band light sources from

falling within your field of vision.
 Repositioning the light sources
 Avoiding the use of well-polished surfaces and
 Reduce the contrast between your work area and its surrounding.
In clothing industry, the type of lamp you use is important. Generally lamps with
high luminous efficiency render colors poorly but fluorescent lamps give both
good color rendering and good vision. For color recognition tasks, use daylight
bulbs or fluorescent tubes.
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D. Occupational Hygiene and Safety

Gloves are provided for each worker in this factory so that their products can be
kept clean during the sewing operation.
The floor should be maintained clean, stable and non-slippery in order to make
the working environment more comfortable and safe for the workers.
The dust produced from the operation is inhaled by the worker. Personal protective
equipment such as mouth mask should be used by workers for similar job in the
workplace.
E. Distinguishing working areas and plant layout

The layout of a factory is deciding where to locate the manufacturing resources.
That is where to install the production facilities such as equipment, machines,
stores and operators. Thus layout determines the basic shape and appearance
of factory. It also determines the way the production flow. In other words it affects
how material and parts flow through the factory. Relatively small changes in the
position of a machine in a factory can affect the flow of materials. This in turn can
affect costs and efficiency of manufacturing. Layout design is one of the most
critical tasks of production management. It affects the factory efficiency, quality
and costs. If the layout is wrong, It can lead to confused flow patterns, inventories,
long process times, inflexible operations and high cost.
F. Fire Safety
In the event of a fire, a basic requirement for he safety of everyone is that there
should be adequate means of escape by which all are able to reach a safe place
without becoming overcome be smoke, toxic gases, heat or fire. The means of
escape should be clearly and accurately illustrated in floor plans (as shown at
the right). The floor plan should be properly displayed at prominent places in the
workplaces, easily viewed by all.
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G. Benefits of good workplace safety
. Increases productivity & quality of work
2. Increases working comfort
. Reduces the level of efforts
. Stimulates personnel to improve performance
5. Contributes to the competitive position of your company
The promotion of safety and health at work is not only a function of good
management but it is a normal management function. Safety and health objectives
should be effectively incorporated into a company’s overall management system
along with other management objectives such as production and quality control.
If standards of safety and health at work are to be improved, full co-operation

and commitment of all employees must be participated fully in the making and
monitoring of arrangements for safety at their place of work in order to arose their
interest in accepting their full share of responsibility.
IS YOUR JOB CAUSING YOU PAIN ?
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 Pain, numbness, or tingling in the shoulders, neck, back and hands affect
many sewing machine operators. These symptoms may be related to
your job.
 Symptoms may start gradually. Many people try to ignore them at first.
But if you ignore them, symptoms can get worse and become harder to
treat. Inform your employer and get medical care right away if you have
symptoms.
 These symptoms may indicate a serious injury that can interfere with your
work and personal activities. They can even lead to permanent disability.
Why do sewing machine operators have these problems?

 An uncomfortable work position. Sewing work forces you to hold your body
in one position for long periods. If it is an uncomfortable position, pain and
injury can result. Your position is determined by the "fit" of your chair and
foot control, your need to see the work, and your need to grasp or hold
materials in place.
 Repeated or forceful motions. Reaching, stitching, pinching, pulling...
hundreds of times a day. Each motion can cause small injuries to muscles
and joints.
 Long work hours and few breaks mean less time for muscles and joint
injuries to heal.
 Hard edges. If the edge of your chair, worktable or table legs press into
your body for long periods, it can damage nerves or other soft body parts.
HOW CAN INJURIES BE PREVENTED?

 By law, your employer is responsible for providing a safe and healthy
workplace. Here are some things you and your employer can do to
prevent injuries:
 Talk with others at work. Do workers have symptoms? Are the
causes of injury present? Does the employer know about preventive
actions to take?
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 Use adjustable chair. Employers should get durable industrial chairs
that have:
 adjustable seat heights
 padded seats
 swivel bases with five legs (not four)
 padded adjustable backrests
 Carefully evaluate chairs with built-in footrests and arm rests to make
sure they fit workers and the movements they make. If these parts
don't fit, adjust or remove them.
 Use foot supports. Foot supports are an important part of the
seated workstation. Employers may need a mechanic to adjust,
install, or build up foot supports in the right position for each worker
(height, forward/back and left/right).
 Adjust your equipment to "fit" your body. (see box on overleaf)
 Improve lighting. Employers should provide. gooseneck” lamps (in
addition to general room light) for each sewing machine, if possible.
Don’t use extension cords; they can cause tripping or fire hazards.
Older individuals need brighter light. Point the light so there are no
shadows where you stitch or prepare work.
 Check your vision. Prescription eyeglasses or contact lenses may
may help you at work. Employers can help by providing time off and
vision care insurance.
 Make reaching easier. Avoid twisting your back, or long reaches.
 Stack your materials and finished pieces close to you. place bins and
carts as close as possible. Install convenient shelves or tool holders
if needed.
 Provide training. A trainer/consultant should help each operator
adjust her entire workstation, including chair and foot supports.
Operators need to learn how to work the chairs, and what
adjustments to make. Also have the consultant train a few operators
to assist their co-workers. Each worker should know the early
warning symptoms of injury.
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 Take tiny breaks. Take frequent, five second breaks. Just lean
back, stretch, and and take a deep breath at least every 15 minutes.
In addition, get up and walk around every half hour or so. You will
probably find that you get more done, and feel better, too.
 Get medical care for symptoms.
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Chapter 10 | BASIC ERGONOMICS
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HOW TO ADJUST YOUR EQUIPMENT
FOR A BETTER “FIT”
[Refer Course 1 Fundamentals of sewing machine,
Module 3 - Basics of sewing machine operation]
Make your chair and foot controls support your body. If you can adjust your
equipment for a comfortable positions, many injuries can be prevented.
 Adjustable chairs are needed to do this right. If your chair is not adjustable,
you still may be able to make a few of these changes.
 Team up with a buddy. Help each other to adjust your chairs and other
equipment. It's easy to see another person's position. It's hard to see
your own!
. Check the chair seat tilt. The seat should be level, or tilted forward
(higher in the back) if you prefer.
2. Adjust the chair seat height for the comfort of your wrists, arms,
neck and shoulders.
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Chapter 10 | BASIC ERGONOMICS
 Wrists should be straight
SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
Feel Better!
Work Better!
Position that may cause pain
 Elbows close to your body

 shoulders relaxed
 head not bent over too far
. Next, support your feet for the comfort of your legs and back.
 Foot controls should be at a comfortable height and distance.
Have them adjusted or altered.
 Feet that are not on a foot control can be raised using a
foot rest.
. Move your hips back in the chair.
5. Adjust the back rest to support your lower back.
. Adjust or pad the knee control.
108 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Chapter 11 | TEAM MANAGEMENT & PERSONALITY DEVELOPMENT
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TEAM MANAGEMENT
Fundamental Techniques in Handling People
. Don’t criticize, condemn or complain.
2. Give honest and sincere appreciation.
. Arouse in the other person an eager want.
Six ways to make people like you

. Become genuinely interested in other people.
2. Smile.
. Remember that a person’s name is to that person the sweetest and most
important sound in any language.
. Be a good listener. Encourage others to talk about themselves.
5. Talk in terms of the other person’s interests.
. Make the other person feel important. and do it sincerely.
Win people to your way of thinking

. The only way to get the best of an argument is to avoid it.
2. Show respect for the other person’s opinions. Never say, “You’re wrong.”
. If you are wrong, admit it quickly and emphatically.
. Begin In a friendly way.
5. Get the other person saying “yes, yes” immediately.
. Let the other person do a great deal of the talking.
7. Let the other person feel that the idea is his or hers.
8. Try honestly to see things from the other person’s point of view.
9. Be sympathetic with the other person’s ideas and desires.
0. Appeal to the nobler motives.
. Dramatize your ideas.
2. Throw down a challenge.
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Be a Leader
How to Change People Without Giving Offense or Arousing Resentment
A leader’s job often includes changing your people’s attitudes and behavior. Some
suggestions to accomplish this:
. Begin with praise and honest appreciation.

2. Call attention to people’s mistakes indirectly.
. Talk about your own mistakes before criticizing the other person.
. Ask questions instead of giving direct orders.
5. Let the other person save face.
. Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be
“hearty in your approbation and lavish in your praise.”
7. Give the other person a fine reputation to live up to.
8. Use encouragement. Make the fault seem easy to correct.
9. Make the other person happy about doing the thing you suggest.
How to Stop Worrying and Start Living?

Fundamental facts you should know about worry
. If you want to avoid worry, do what Sir William Osler did: Live in “day-tight
compartments.” Don’t stew about the futures. Just live each day
until bedtime.
2. The next time Trouble--with a Capital T--backs you up in a corner, try the
magic formula of Willis H. Carrier:
 Ask yourself, “What is the worst that can possibly happen if I can’t
solve my problem?
 Prepare yourself mentally to accept the worst--if necessary.
 Then calmly try to improve upon the worst--which you have already
mentally agreed to accept.
. Remind yourself of the exorbitant price you can pay for worry in terms of
your health. “Those who do not know how to fight worry die young.”
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Basic techniques in analyzing worry
. Get the facts. Remember that Dean Hawkes of Columbia University
said that “half the worry in the world is caused by people trying to make
decisions before they have sufficient knowledge on which to base
a decision.”
2. After carefully weighing all the facts, come to a decision.
. Once a decision is carefully reached, act! Get busy carrying out your
decision--and dismiss all anxiety about the outcome.
. When you, or any of your associates, are tempted to worry about a
problem, write out and answer the following questions:
 What is the problem?
 What is the cause of the problem?
 What are all possible solutions?
 What is the best solution?
How to break the worry habit before it breaks you?

. Crowd worry out of your mind by keeping busy. Plenty of action is one of
the best therapies ever devised for curing “wibber gibbers.”
2. Don’t fuss about trifles. Don’t permit little things--the mere termites of life--
to ruin your happines.
. Use the law of averages to outlaw your worries. Ask yourself: “What are
the odds against this thing’s happening at all?”
. Co-operate with the inevitable. If you know a circumstance is beyond
your power to change or revise, say to yourself: “It is so; it cannot be
otherwise.”
5. Put a “stop-less” order on your worries. Decide just how much anxiety a
thing may be worth--and refuse to give it anymore.
. Let the past bury its dead. Don’t saw sawdust.
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Seven ways to cultivate a mental attitude that will bring you

peace and happiness
. Let’s fill our minds with thoughts of peace, courage, health, and hope, for
“our life is what our thoughts make it.”
2. Let’s never try to get even with our enemies, because if we do we will hurt
ourselves far more than we hurt them. Let’s do as General Eisenhower
does: let’s never waste a minute thinking about people we don’t like.
. Instead of worrying about ingratitude,
 let’s expect it. Let’s remember that Jesus healed ten lepers in
one day--and only one thanked Him. Why should we expect more
gratitude than Jesus got?
 Let’s remember that the only way to find happiness is not to expect
gratitude--but to give for the joy of giving.
 Let’s remember that gratitude is a “cultivated” trait; so if we want our
children to be grateful, we must train them to be grateful:
. Count your blessings--not your troubles!
5. Let’s not imitate others. Let’s find ourselves and be ourselves, for “envy is
ignorance” and “imitation is suicide.”
. When fate hands us a lemon, let’s try to make a lemonade.
7. Let’s forget our own unhappiness--by trying to create a little happiness for
others. “When you are good to others, you are best to yourself.”
The perfect way to conquer worry

. Prayer
How to keep from worrying about criticism

. Unjust criticism is often a disguised compliment. It often means that you
have aroused jealousy and envy. Remember that no one ever kicks a
dead dog.
2. Do the very best you can; and then put up your old umbrella and keep the
rain of criticism from running down the back of your neck.
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. Let’s keep a record of the fool things we have done and criticize ourselves.
Since we can’t hope to be perfect, let’s do what E.H, Little did: let’s ask for
unbiased, helpful, constructive criticism.
Six ways to prevent fatigue and worry and keep your energy
and spirits high
. Rest before you get tired.
2. Learn to relax at your work.
. Learn to relax at home,
. Apply these four good workings habits:
 Clear your desk of all papers except those relating to the immediate
problem at hand.
 Do things in the order of their importance.
 When you face a problem, solve it then and there if you have the
facts to make a decision.
 Learn to organize, deputize, and supervise.
5. To prevent worry and fatigue, put enthusiasm into your work.
. Remember, no one was ever killed by lack of sleep. It is worrying about
insomnia that does the damage--not the insomnia.
The Quick and Easy Way to Effective Speaking

Fundamentals of Effective Speaking
. Acquiring the Basic Skills

 Take heart from the experience of others
 Keep your goal before you
 Predetermine your mind to success
 Seize every opportunity to practice
2. Developing Confidence
 Get the facts about fear of speaking in public
 Prepare in the proper way
 Predetermine your mind to success
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 Act confident
. Speaking Effectively the Quick and Easy Way
 Speaking about something you have earned the right to talk about
through experience or study
 Be sure you are excited about your subject
 Be eager to share your talk with your listeners
 Speech, Speaker, and Audience
. Earning the Right to Talk
 Limit your subject
 Develop reserve power
 Fill your talk with illustrations and examples
 Use concrete, familiar words that create pictures
5. Vitalizing the Talk
 Choose subjects you are earnest about
 Relive the Feelings you have about your topic
 Act in earnest
. Sharing the Talk with the Audience
 Talk in terms of your listeners' interests
 Give honest, sincere appreciation
 Identify yourself with the audience
 Make your audience a partner in your talk
 Play yourself down
7. Making the Short Talk to Get Action
 Give your example, an incident from your life
 State your point, what you want the audience to do
 Give the reason or benefit the audience may expect
8. Making the Talk to Inform
 Restrict your subject to fit the time at your disposal
 Arrange your ideas in sequence
 Enumerate your points as you make them
 Compare the strange with the familiar
 Use visual aids
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9. Making the Talk to Convince
 Win confidence by deserving it
 Get a Yes-response
 Speakin with contagious enthusiasm
 Show respect and affection for your audience
 Begin in a friendly way
0. Making Impromptu Talks
 Practice impromptu speaking
 Be mentally ready to speak impromptu
 Get Into an example immediately
 Speak with animation and force
 Use the principle of the Here and the Now
 Don't talk impromptu--Give an impromptu talk
. Delivering the Talk
 Crash through your shell of self-consciousness
 Don't try to imitate others--Be yourself
 Converse with your audience
 Put your heart into your speaking
 Practice making your voice strong and flexible
2. Introducing Speakers, Presenting and Accepting Awards
 Thoroughly prepare what you are going to say
 Follow the T-I-S Formula
 Be enthusiastic
 Thoroughly prepare the talk of presentation
 Express your sincere feelings in the talk of acceptance
. Organizing the longer Talk
 Get attention immediately
 Avoid getting unfavorable attention
 Support your main ideas
 Appeal for action
. Applying What You Have learned
 Use specific detail in everyday conversation
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 Use effective speaking techniques in your job

 Seek Opportunities to speak in public
 You must persist
 Keep the certainty of reward before you
Don’t Grow Old. Grow Up!

The first step toward maturity –Responsibility
. Don’t kick the Chair. Be willing to account for yourself; don’t blame others.
2. Damn the Handicaps!- Full Speed Ahead. Don’t make a handicap an
excuse for failure.
. Five Ways to Ditch Disaster:
 Accept the inevitable; give time a chance.
 Take action against trouble.
 Concentrate on helping others.
 Use all of life while you have it.
 Count your blessings.
Action is for adults

. Belief is the Basis for Action. Know what you believe and act accordingly.
2. Analyze Before You Act.
. Two Wonderful Words that Changed a Life. When the time for action
arrives, don’t hesitate.
Three great rules for mental health: Know yourself, Like

yourself, Be yourself
. There’s Only One Like You Learn to know yourself by
2. Cultivating moments of solitude.
. Breaking through the habit barrier.
. Developing excitement and enthusiasm.
5. Conformity: Refuge of the Frightened. Be yourself by developing your own
convictions and standards; then have the courage to live with them.
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. Why is a Bore? Develop inner resources to avoid boring yourself and
others.
7. The Maturing Mind: Adventure in Adult Living. Develop your mind through
intellectual activity.
Marriage is for grownup

. How to Get Along with Women. Here are seven ways:
2. Give her appreciation.
. Be generous and considerate.
. Keep yourself attractive.
5. Understand a woman’s work.
. Be dependable.
7. Share her interests.
8. Love her.
9. Father Come Home. Children need fathers too.
0. How to Get Along with Men. Here are seven ways:
. Be good-natured.
2. Be a good companion.
. Be a good listener.
. Be adaptable.
5. Be efficient, not officious.
. Be yourself.
7. Be glad you’re a woman.
8. The Rediscovery of Love. We must develop a more mature concept of love.
Maturity and making friends

. Loneliness: The Great American Disease.
2. People are Wonderful. Learn to appreciate them.
. Why Should People Like You? They will like you if you like them and
develop qualities of warmth that attract others.
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How old are you?

. If You’re Afraid of Growing Old, Read This. Learn some of the facts
about aging.
2. How to Live to be 100 and Like it. To live longer, develop attitudes that
promote health of mind.
. Don’t Let the Rocking Chair Get You. Work as long as you can.
Maturity of spirit
. The Court of Last Appeal. When all else fails, try God.
2. The Food of the Spirit. Our spirit is nourished through prayer.
MEASURING PROCEDURES TO JUDGE

THE PROGRESS OF THE TRAINEES
. Observe the trainees weather they are following the Safety precautions as
instructed by trainer.
2. Observe the sitting, handling the material and operating procedures
of trainees.
. Check weather they are following cleanliness during the operations
. Observe and confirm that they are showing interest in learning procedures
5. By using a stopwatch check weather they are operating particular
operation as the per the time schedule.
. Confirm each exercise they are practicing is according to specified length
and dimension.
7. Confirm in each exercise they stop at desired point as specified
in worksheet.
8. Observe their pedal operating system and machine controlling system.
9. Observe the trainees weather they are threading the machine properly.
0. Confirm the stitch quality at each operation of the trainees.
. Check the Leg and hand co-ordination when they are working.
2. Check Visual and colour blind test so that they are fit when they complete
the training.
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Note: These are the general procedures of measuring the progress of the trainee,
in addition to these trainer can test the trainees in his own way and time to time
retrain them in which they are weak to improve and develop their skills to get
maximum out put from the trainees.
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Chapter 12 | ASSESSMENT MODULE
Train the Trainers

– An Initiative by IL&FS, certified by Methods Apparel Consultancy Pvt.
Ltd.
Test 1
Time allowed for total test = 30 minutes – To be conducted on day 6 (end of
week 1)
Part A –Verbal Questions for Trainee Assessment

Time allowed for Part A = 10 – 15 minutes
These questions will be having pictures as answers and no kind of details of

words so that it is more of a visual recognition exam than a theory paper. Main
elements would involve recognition of parts of sewing machine as applicable
(single needle lock stitch, flat lock and safety stitch over lock).
 Evaluation criteria – Objective evaluation on the basis of marks obtained.

5 Multiple choice questions. Total Marks = 20.
Taking into consideration the almost non existent literacy standards of the target
trainee group and the variety of language all the below will be more like a verbal
aptitude and a visual recognition test.
Trainers are supposed to conduct this test on an individual basis where candidates
(trainees) will be called upon and asked to recognize the parts of the machine as
per the questions below and mark objectively.
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Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
Q1. Name the two parts of the machine as marked below. What is their use?
(4 marks)
Answer 1 – The two parts are Needle and Pressure Foot
Needle is used for penetrate the fabric, making thread loop/ knot with bobbin or
looper and stitch formation.
Pressure Foot is used for holding and feeding the fabric.
(One mark each for recognition and specifying usage)
(4 marks)
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Answer 2 – The two parts are Pressure foot Bar and Thread Take Up Lever.
Pressure foot bar is used to loosen or tighten the pressure of the pressure foot.
Thread Take Up Lever is used for managing the thread uptake and feeding thread
and working in tandum with the needle.
Q3. Identify the below part and mention usage. (2 marks)
Answer 3
Above part is a bobbin in a bobbin case. It is used for a lock stitch machine for the
formation of a knotted lock stitch.
Q4. Name the three parts of the machine as marked below. What is their use?
(6 marks)
Answer 4 – The three parts are hand wheel, SPI setter and Back tack bar.
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Hand wheel is used for managing the needle up and down movement.
SPI setter is used for setting the SPI as per the fabric requirement.
Back tack bar is used for securing the seam.
(4 marks)
Answer 5 – The two parts are thread tension setter and throat plate cover.
Thread tension setter is used for adjusting the thread tension to get proper
stitch quality.
Throat plate is used as a cover so that the fabric does not get inside the machine
and also to view and manage bobbin and bobbin case as required.
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Over Lock Machine Questions

Time allowed = 10 – 15 minutes, Total Marks = 20 marks
 Evaluation criteria – Objective evaluation on the basis of marks obtained.
(4 marks)
(4 marks)
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(4 marks)
Q4. Name the part of the machine as marked below. What is its use? (2 marks)
Q5. Name the part of the machine as marked below. What is its use? (2 marks)
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(4 marks)
Test 1 - Part B -Threading the machine

Time allowed for Part B = 5 - 10 minutes
This test would include attachment of needle to the needle bar and threading the
needle.
Evaluation criteria – Objective evaluation on the basis of marks obtained as per

the time specified time standards.
Total marks = 10.
Time standard, For SNLS = 1 minute.
For Flat Lock and Safety stitch over lock = accuracy is the key, all needles, guides
and loopers should be covered in the correct sequence within a reasonable time
frame of 10 -12 minutes.
Full marks to be awarded to the candidate who attaches and threads the needle
within the defined time frame, in the correct sequence without missing any thread
guides.
No marks to the candidate for any mistake with the sequence or going over the
time specified.
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Test 1 - Part C - Understanding the cleaning of ones sewing
machine
Time allowed for Part C = 5 - 10 minutes
This involves practically going onto the machine and the workstation and
establishing that the machine and its various functional parts are lint and oil free.
Evaluation criteria – Subjective evaluation on the basis of examiners

observation.
Total marks = 10.
Full marks to be awarded to the candidate whose workstation is absolutely clean

and organized.
No marks to the candidate whose workstation shows signs of dirt and oil.
Test 2 – Paper Test –

Total time allowed 30 mins – To be conducted on day 12 (end of week 2)
This entire exam has to be conducted on paper exercises only, without threading
the needle. This is to determine the trainees ability to handle and maneuver the
sewing machine with good skill and confidence levels.
Exam to be conducted on Test exercise 1 & 2(as provided by Methods).

the time specified time standards and quality parameters.
Each paper to be marked on 50 marks each.
Weightage for correct timing marks to be awarded = 20% and for good quality =
80 %.
Which means for correct timings a candidate will get full marks = 10 and for an
excellent quality submit full marks = 40. This is done to lay more emphasis on
quality parameters rather than time.
Time for Test 1 = SMV = 3 minutes. Seam length = 232 cm or 91.5’’.
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Time for Test 2 = SMV = 2 minutes. Seam length =150 cm or 59’’.
Quality parameters –
. Any kind of deviation from the original sewing lines.
2. Dirty work. Please deduct 2-5 marks depending on the condition of
submitted test assignment.
. Any point of deviation from precise stops.
. Untidy curves.
Important –
SPI of the machine to be set at 10.
There should be no thread in the needle.
All machine setting should be done for paper which includes setting the tension
and feed dog etc.
No marks will be given for submission on time if the candidate scores less than
30 marks on quality part first. Candidates will get full marks if score on quality is
30 or higher and submission is done on time as mentioned for each exercise.
How to Measure the Quality – For Test Paper Exercise 1 and 2

Marks will be calculated as per the procedure mentioned below –
. Calculate the total length of deviations from the original sewing lines.
Please refer to diagrammatic representations below. Deviations are
marked as *.
2. Add all deviations.
. Total Stitch Length for Exercise 1 is = 91.5’’.
SPI = 10.
Hence total number of stitches for Exercise is = 91.5 X 10 =915.
. Total Deviations = x inches.

Total number of deviated stitches = 10x.
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5. Marks Obtained (%) = Acceptable quality of number of stitches
Total number of stitches
. Similarly For Exercise 2

Total Stitch Length for Exercise 2 is = 59’’.
SPI = 10.
Hence total number of stitches for Exercise is = 59 X 10 = 590.
Total Deviations = x inches.
Total number of deviated stitches =10x.
Marks Obtained (%) = Acceptable quality of number of stitches

Total number of stitches
Diagrams for Reference of calculation of Deviations from

Original stitch Lines
Measure Deviation*
*
*
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Exercise 1
Exercise 2
Test 3 – Fabric Tests -Time allowed 30 mins

– To be conducted on day 18 (end of week 3)
 Exercises on Fabric only.
This entire exam has to be conducted on printed fabric only with threaded
needle.
Pattern of print will be same as test exercise 1 and 2 done earlier on
paper.
Exam to be conducted on
. Test Exercise 1 & 2 on fabric and additionally,
2. Join and Top stitch two fabric plies.
Part A – Applicable for only Fabric Test 1 and Fabric Test 2

Exercises
First part of the exercise involves joining two plies of fabric – one printed with
the test pattern and the other should be plain without any marking. Candidate is
supposed to join the two plies without using any special guide and make an edge
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stitch (foot seam) along the four sides.
Part A will also have evaluation based on quality parameters as mentioned

below.

50 %.
excellent quality submit full marks = 10. This is done to lay emphasis on quality
and time parameters.
Time for Test 1 and Test 2 = SMV = 1.5 minutes.
Seam length = 102 cm or 40.15’’. (Back tack at start and end). This is based on
a A4 size of fabric for the exercise.
Calculation of % marks will be done exactly in the same manner as described for
previous tests.
7.5 marks on quality part first. Candidates will get full marks if score on quality is
7.5 or higher and submission is done on time as mentioned for each exercise.
Part B – Applicable for only Test 1 and Test 2 Fabric Exercises

After successful completion of “Part A” trainee can then proceed to “Part B” and
start sewing along with the pattern lines on the fabric.

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50 %.
Time for Fabric Test 1 = SMV = 3 minutes.
Seam length = 232 cm or 91.5’’.
Time for Fabric Test 2 = SMV = 2 minutes.
Seam length =150 cm or 59’’.
Time for Join and Top stitch two fabric plies (with back tack at start and end only
for top stitch) = SMV = 1.5 minute.
Seam length for both the operations – join and top stitch =24’’.
Calculation of % marks will be done exactly in the same manner as described for
previous tests.
75% marks on quality part first. Candidates will get full marks if score on quality is
75% or higher and submission is done on time as mentioned for each exercise.
 Both the panels should lay as flat as possible.
 Any kind of deviation from the original sewing lines.
 Any point of deviation from precise stops.
 Untidy curves.
 Uneven stitch density and tension.
 Concentrated seams
 SPI variations
 Dirty work.
 Top or bottom stitch loops.
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Important –
. Medium weight muslin/ cotton fabric to be used for testing purposes.
2. SPI of the machine to be set between 11- 12.
. There should be contrast thread in the needle.
. All machine setting should be done for fabric which includes setting the
tension and feed dog etc. This has to be done by the trainee prior to the
start of the test.
5. Trainee should be capable of setting the top and bottom tension of the
machine.
Test 4 – Stitching of Garment Parts (specific

to module selected by candidate)
Time allowed 30 mins. To be conducted on day 24 (end of the course)
Important -This test has to be conducted in the presence of an external

examiner.
Candidates will be asked to produce 2 garments parts from the lists below
depending on the product produced in that area.
Time given below for each exercise is for an operator efficiency of 40%.
. In case of shirt modules - Collar, a pair Cuff, pocket and sleeve placket.
A) Time for Collar = SMV = 7 minutes.
Seam length = 177 cm or 69.68 ’’.
The process of ready collar is to follow the sequence given below –
Hem Neck Band, Collar Run Stitch, Collar Trim and Turn, Collar Top Stitch,
Neck Band Attach to Collar.
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Quality Parameters and How to Mark
Points to measure (5 marks each)
. Collar balance.
2. Uneven top stitches.
. Collar Centre Out
. Collar Neckband Balance.
5. Seam Quality.
B) Time for a pair Cuffs = SMV = 6.30 minutes.
The process of ready cuff is to follow the sequence given below –
Cuff Hem, cuff run stitch, Cuff trim and turn and iron.
C) Time for Pocket = SMV = 2 minutes.
The process of ready single pocket (square shape) is to follow the sequence
given below –
Pocket Hem, Pocket Press and Pocket Attach.
D) Time for a pair of Sleeve Plackets = SMV = 4.25 minutes.
The process of sleeve diamond placket is to follow the sequence given below –
Sleeve placket press, sleeve placket attach with finish.
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2. In case of trouser modules -Zip attachment, bottom hem and welt pocket
making.
A) Time for Zip Attachment = SMV = 4.5 minutes.
Seam length = 94 cm or 37 ’’.
The process of Zip Attachment is to follow the sequence given below –
Right fly ready, zip attach at right fly, left fly attach and top stitch, zip attach
at left fly, J stitch.

Please note below marked defects and deduct marks for each defect
Points to measure (5 marks each)
. No tension in the attachment.

2. No pinching at the end of the zipper.
. J stitch – top stitch to be even.
. Edge stitch to be even.
5. Seam quality.
B) Time for Bottom Hem = SMV = 1.25 minutes.
The process of bottom hem is to follow the sequence given below –
The bottom hem is iron crease.
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D) Time for Welt Pocket making = SMV = 5 minutes.
The process of welt pocket making (ready measurement of 12 cm pocket opening)

is to follow the sequence given below –
Welt piece attach, trim, turn and press, top stitch welt pocket.
. In case of knit modules -Slit making, placket, bottom hem and collar
attachment.
A) Time for Slit making and finish = SMV = 4.5 minutes.
Seam length =20 cm or 15.75’’.
The process of slit making (both sides) of a polo t shirt (slit = 2’’) is to follow the
sequence given below –
Tape attach, tape finish.
B) Time for Sleeve attach = SMV = 2.30 minutes. Seam length =120 cm or
47.24 ’’.
The process of a pair sleeve attach of a polo t shirt is to follow the sequence given
below-
Pair of sleeves with a 5 thread over lock machine.
C) Time for Placket = SMV = 4.85 minutes. Seam length = 60 cm or 23.62 ’’.
The process of front placket of a polo t shirt (ready measurement of 6’’ placket
opening) is to follow the sequence given below –
Hem placket and trim, attach placket and trim, edge stitch on inner placket, edge
stitch on upper placket, box stitch.
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. Uneven top stitches.
2. Consistency of width of placket.
. No pinching at placket end.
. Evenness of placket box.
5. Placket pick angle to be accurate.
D) Time for Bottom Hem(all round) = SMV = 3.65 minutes.
The process of bottom hem (length = 50 cm, one side)of a polo t shirt with a flat
lock machine.
E) Time for Collar Attachment with piping = SMV = 2.40 minutes.
The process of collar attachment with piping of a polo t shirt with a Single needle
machine.

50 %.
75% marks on quality part first. Candidates will get full marks if score on quality is
75% or higher and submission is done on time as mentioned for each exercise.
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 Any kind of deviation from the original sewing lines.
 Any point of deviation from precise stops.
 Untidy curves.
 Uneven stitch density and tension.
 Concentrated seams
 SPI variations
 Dirty work.
 Top or bottom stitch loops.
Important –
. Medium weight muslin/ cotton fabric to be used for testing purposes.

2. SPI of the machine to be set between 11- 12.
. There should be contrast thread in the needle.
. All machine setting should be done for fabric which includes setting the
tension and feed dog etc. This has to be done by the trainee prior to the
start of the test.
5. Trainee should be capable of setting the top and bottom tension of the
machine.
Grading of Trainees
The Grades can be divided into A, B, C & D with A being the highest, B is second, C
is just passed, D is not passed and would be made to repeat before being passed.
In quantitative terms,
A grade would be given to an operator who scores more than 85%.
B grade would be given to an operator who scores between 75% - 85%.
C grade would be given to an operator who scores between 65% - 75%.
D grade would be given to an operator who scores less than 65%. This grade
stands for Fail.
This candidate will not be given a pass certificate.
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Chapter 5 | REVIEWING TH K YAN CONTENT
course 1
K YAN CONTENT WITH ITS VIEW TIME
The K Yan is loaded with a module on Textiles in multiple languages; it is absolutely
necessary to go through
Fundamentals
Course
of sewing 0:42:12
1
machines
Introduction to Sewing
Module1 Machine to sewing 05:10
machines
Sub-module1 Definition of Sewing Machines 00:25
Sub-module2 Types of Sewing Machines 00:45

Classification of Sewing
Sub-module3 03:15
Machines
Parts of Lockstitch Sewing
Sub-module4 00:45
Machine
Working on a Sewing
Module 2 03:05
Machine
Sub-module1 Right posture 03:05
Basics of Sewing
Module 3 05:08
Machine Operation
Personal appearance at works
Sub-module1 00:45
place
Sub-module2 Correct posture of body 00:41
Sub-module3 How to put foot on pedal 00:31
Sub-module4 How to operate the pedal 01:15
Sub-module5 Practice of pedal operation 01:25
Sub-module6 Operation of knee lifter 00:31
Attaching the needle and

Module 4 05:47
threading
Attaching a needle on lockstitch
Sub-module1 00:55
machine
Sub-module2 Threading of lockstitch machine 01:41
Attaching a needle on overlock
Sub-module3 01:00
machine
Sub-module4 Threading of overlock machine 02:11
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Winding the bobbin

Module 5 06:25
thread
Sub-module1 Bobbin thread winder unit 01:45
Sub-module2 01:05
winding
Setting the bobbin into the
Sub-module3 00:55
bobbin case
Sub-module4 01:25
tension
Setting the bobbin case into the
Sub-module5 01:15
hook

Adjusting the sewing
Module 6 08:50
condition
Sub-module1 Adjusting the Stitch Length 01:00
Sub-module2 Adjusting the Thread Tension Nut 01:55

Adjusting the Pressure of
Sub-module3 01:35
Presser Foot
Sub-module4 Adjustment of Feed Dog 01:15
Adjusting the Thread Take-up
Sub-module5 02:05
Spring
Adjusting the Needle Thread
Sub-module6 Take-up Amount of the Thread 01:00
Take-up Lever

Module 7 04:22
machine
Sub-module1 02:51
sewing machine
Sub-module2 Instructions For safe operation 01:31
Do’s and don’ts while

Module 8 03:25
sewing
Sub-module1 Do’s while sewing 02:25
Sub-module2 Don’ts while sewing 01:00

Course
Worksheets 0:26:28
2
Module 1 Worksheets 26:28
Low Speed Straight Stitching and
Sub-module1 03:05
Fixed Position Stop
Sub-module2 Adjustment of Thread Tension 04:55
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Sub-module3 04:45
Sub-module4 Manual Reverse Stitching 03:21
Sub-module5 Corner Stitching 03:31

Sub-module6 03:00
Sewing Allowance
Sub-module7 03:31
left curve)

Sewing
Course
Machine Work 0:09:56
3
Aids
Module1 Aids for Sewing 09:56
Sub-module1 Introduction 00:40
Sub-module2 Plait Folder 01:21

Sub-module3 01:25
Attachment
Single Needle Shoulder Topstitch
Sub-module4 01:45
Attachment
Sub-module5 Sleeve Placket Binder 01:45
Sub-module6 Single Needle Sleeve Attachment 01:15
Sub-module7 Cuff Setter 00:45
Sub-module8 Bottom Hemming Folder 00:45
Sub-module9 Open able Top Swing Folder 00:15

Course Sewing
0:39:23
4 Problems
Problems of Stitch
Module1 08:57
Formation
Sub-module1 00:55
Formation
Sub-module2 Unbalanced Stitches 01:31
Sub-module3 Skipped Stitches 01:35

Needle, Bobbin or Looper Thread
Sub-module4 01:45
Breakages
Sub-module5 Machine Not Feeding Material 01:45
Sub-module6 Variable Stitch Density 00:45
Sub-module7 Staggered Stitches 00:41
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 141


Sub-module9
Sewing
Module2 Seam Puckering 22:43
Sub-module1 Introduction 0:00:51
Sub-module2 Use of Thick Needle 0:04:15
Sub-module3 Excessive Thread Tension 0:06:35
Sub-module4 Defective Presser Foot 0:04:21
Sub-module5 Material Flops 0:01:15
Sub-module6 Defective Feed 0:03:45
Sub-module7 Fast Sewing speed 0:00:41
Sub-module8 Factors for preventing Puckering 0:01:00

Module3 0:07:43
Mechanical Damage While

Sub-module2 0:03:31
Sewing
Sub-module3 Needle Heating Damage 0:03:31
Course Construction
1:12:33
5 of Men’s Shirt
Module1 Placket- Making 08:00
Preparation of Left Hand Side
Sub-module1 05:00
Placket
Preparation of Right Hand Side
Sub-module2 03:00
Placket
Pocket - Making,
Module2 07:55
Attaching
Sub-module1 Pocket Preparation 04:10
Pocket attaching 03:45
Module3 Yoke – Attaching 07:25
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Sub-module1 Attaching yoke to the back 03:25
Sub-module2 Attaching yoke to the front 04:00
Sleeve Placket – Making,

Module 4 11:45
Attaching
Sub-module1 Upper sleeve placket preparation 04:00
Sub-module2 Lower sleeve placket preparation 02:00
Sub-module3 Attaching Plackets to the sleeve 05:45
Attaching - Sleeve,
Module 5 06:00
Making - Side Seam
Sub-module1 Sleeve Attach 03:00
Sub-module2 Side Seam 03:00
Neckband, Collar -
Module 6 15:48
Making, Attaching
Sub-module1 Collar & Neck Band Preparation 08:20
Sub-module2 Collar & Neck band Attach 03:25
Sub-module3 Collar Attach to Body 04:03
Making and Attaching

Module 7 08:15
Cuff
Sub-module1 Cuff preparation 03:35
Sub-module2 Cuff Attach to Sleeve 04:40
Hemming, Button -
Module 8 07:15
Holding, Attaching
Sub-module1 Bottom Hemming 02:20
Sub-module2 Button Holing 02:15
Sub-module3 Button Attaching 02:40
Construction
Course of Men’s
6 Trousers 0:48:15
Pocket – Making,
Module1 17:40
Attaching
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 143

Sub-module1 Preparation of Pocket bag (front) 04:25
Sub-module2 Pocket attach (front) 05:15
Sub-module3 Back Pocket Making 08:00
Module2 Fly – Making, Attaching 03:00
Sub-module1 Fly making and attach 03:00
Module3 Zipper - Attaching 07:00
Sub-module1 Zipper attach 07:00
Module4 Back Rise - Attaching 02:00
Sub-module1 Back rise attach 02:00
Front Back Pieces -

Module5 06:35
Attaching
Sub-module1 Front and back attach 06:35
Belt and Loop – Making,

Module6 04:50
Attaching
Sub-module1 Belt loop making 01:05
Sub-module2 Belt and loop attach 03:45
Module7 Bottom Hemming 01:00
Buttons –Holing,
Module8 03:20
Attaching
Sub-module2 Button Attach 02:20
Module9 Bar tacking 02:50
Sub-module1 Bar tacking 02:50
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Construction
Course
of Men’s Polo 0:22:25
7
Shirt
Module1 Front placket -Making 09:00
Sub-module1 Preparation of Front Placket 09:00
Module2 Shoulder - Attaching 02:30
Sub-module1 Procedure for Shoulder Attach 02:30
Module3 03:15
Hemming
Sub-module1 Procedure for Sleeve Attach 01:10
Procedure for Attaching Front
Sub-module2 and Back Along Sleeve (Side 00:50
Seam)
Sub-module3 Hemming Sleeve Bottom. 01:15
Module4 Collar -Attaching 06:40
Sub-module1 Procedure for Collar Attaching 06:40
Buttons – Holing,
Module5 00:50
Attaching
Sub-module1 Button holing and button attach 00:50
TOTAL VIDEO CONTENT VIEW TIME 4:21:12
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 145

K YAN: CHAPTER 1
The K yan is a very simple and effective and must use medium, Clicking on the
topics one can enter into the details
As you enter the fundamentals of sewing machines you will find the topics as
mentioned in the figure below.
Similarly when you click on the other topics you will find a detailed description
about the topics, the topics can be seen in the below mentioned screen.
As you enter into the detailed modules you will find these icons
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On clicking the icon shown below, you will get access to sub modules, and
summary, on clicking the icon in some specific modules and rolling over the
mouse on the diagram you will get access to the specific part. When you roll over
your mouse on the shirt icon you will get access to assessment. Clicking on the
icon you will enter the assessment module, in the assessment module when you
click close it will give you access to the questions for assessment
When you click the icon as shown under you will get access to a gallery, which
gives information
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 147

The icon indicated below gives access to details about the K yan
These 2 icons give access to Teachers notes and do it your self-module
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It is absolutely essential to follow the K yan, at the same time personal supervision
is also required.
Introduction to Sewing Machine to sewing machines

Module 1 05:10
Sub-module1 Definition of Sewing Machines 00:25
Sub-module2 Types of Sewing Machines 00:45
Sub-module3 Classification of Sewing Machines 03:15
IMPORTANT Sub-module4 Parts of Lockstitch Sewing Machine 00:45
TIME AS IN THE K YAN IS INDICATED ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE TOP OF

THE TABLE
 Run the K Yan for about 4 to 5 times

 Observe & asses if the number of times you repeat are enough for the
trainees to understand
 Design small exercise like fill in the blanks oral match the columns
 Lay special emphasis on parts of a sewing machine
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 149

SUGGESTED HOMEWORK FOR TRAINEE
 List out Parts of a sewing machine, with their functions
EXERCISES FOR THE TRAINER
 Design a test paper for a trainee based on the above with 50% weight age
on Sub Module 4 and 50% weight age on Sub Modules 1 to 3
 Design Your Teaching notes
Module 2 Working on a Sewing Machine 03:05

Sub-module1 Right posture 03:05

THE TABLE
 Run the K yan for about 4 to 5 times

 Explain the importance of right posture from the point of view of Fatigue,
Ergonomics, productivity etc.
 List down all the important points, ask the trainees to note it down
 Also refer the gallery in the K Yan content, the gallery is an eye like icon,
which has various sections one of the sections, has the animation of a
posture.
SUGGESTED HOMEWORK FOR TRAINEE
 Ask the trainees to memorize the advantages of right posture
EXERCISE FOR THE TRAINER
 Devise ways and means to teach the trainees right posture so that it
remains firmly within them as a habit, this could be assessed as random
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check or providing extra credit or appreciation.
 Design Posters or slogans for right posture.
Basics of Sewing Machine

Module 3 05:08
Operation
Personal appearance at
Sub-module1 00:45
works place
Sub-module2 Correct posture of body 00:41
Sub-module3 How to put foot on pedal 00:31
Sub-module4 How to operate the pedal 01:15
Sub-module5 Practice of pedal operation 01:25
Sub-module6 Operation of knee lifter 00:31

THE TABLE

 Pre determine where the number of stops are desired
 Sub Module 1 & Sub Module 2 can be combined together
 Sub Module 3,Sub Module 4, Sub Module 5 can be combined to gather
 The Sub Module 3,Sub Module 4, Sub Module 5 can be combined to
gather have to be followed by practical exercise the till the pedal control is
achieved
 The Pedal control exercise is done for 25 – 30 times or more appropriately
till pedal control is achieved. The control has to be assessed
 You could spread over the pedal control exercise over a few days
SUGGESTED EXERCISE FOR TRAINEE
 All trainees should try and achieve control of the pedal to take one stitch,
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 151

the trainee should be able count the number of needle bar movements.
 The Trainer should Asses and record the time taken by each trainee for
achieving this level of control.
 The posture of the trainee should be correct; the placement of feet should
be accurate.
 The Trainee should sit as if he were actually stitching.
Attaching the needle and threading

Module 4 05:47
Attaching a needle on
Sub-module1 00:55
lockstitch machine
Threading of lockstitch
Sub-module2 01:41
machine
Attaching a needle on over
Sub-module3 01:00
lock machine
Threading of over lock
Sub-module4 02:11
machine

THE TABLE
 The K Yan should be run step by step and threading should go along with
this simultaneously
 We will need a bobbin of thread for each trainee
 After having done this for substantial number of times the trainee should
able to achieve a timing of 5to7 minutes for attaching and threading of
overlock sewing machine
 The trainees should be able to attain a timing of 1 minute for attaching a
needle and threading the machine
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EXERCISE FOR THE TRAINEE
 The Needle Number, and type for overlock and single needle lockstitch
machines should be specifically known.
 As a habit ask the trainee to detach the needles daily and re thread the
machine as soon as he comes and seats him self.
 The Needle Number, and type for overlock and single needle lockstitch
machines should be specifically instructed with the difference.
Module7 04:22
machine
Sub-module1 02:51
sewing machine
Sub-module2 Instructions For safe operation 01:31

THE TABLE
 The procedure for cleaning has to be exhibited step by step run the K Yan
for about 4 to 5 times.
 Things required for this particular exercise is, waste cloth, lint brush, mild
soap solution
 The Module on cleaning has to be exhibited well as this is to be carried
forward as a permanent habit.
 Trainee has to told about the disadvantages of an unclean machine

 Trainee to memorize the disadvantages and list it down the next day
morning
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 153

 List down the various disadvantages of not cleaning the machine in

production as well as in quality
 Prepare your lecture notes.
 Random Notes , reward and punishment for all the trainees for cleanliness
of the machine
Winding the
Module 5 06:25
bobbin thread
Sub-module1 Bobbin thread winder unit 01:45
Sub-module2 Adjusting the bobbin thread winding 01:05
Sub-module3 Setting the bobbin into the bobbin case 00:55
Sub-module4 Adjusting the bobbin thread tension 01:25
Sub-module5 Setting the bobbin case into the hook 01:15

THE TABLE
 The procedure has to be exhibited step by step run the K Yan for about 4
to 5 times.
 We will need threads
 The complicated settings has to be differentiated from the settings that can
be done by the operator
 You may not disturb the complicated settings
 Each Trainee is to wind bobbin

 Setting the Bobbin into the bobbin case
 This is to be practiced and checked by checking stitch formation
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 Design your lecture notes
Adjusting the
Module 6 08:50
sewing condition
Sub-module1 Adjusting the Stitch Length 01:00
Sub-module2 Adjusting the Thread Tension Nut 01:55
Sub-module3 Adjusting the Pressure of Presser Foot 01:35
Sub-module4 Adjustment of Feed Dog 01:15
Sub-module5 Adjusting the Thread Take-up Spring 02:05
Adjusting the Needle Thread Take-up
Sub-module6 01:00
Amount of the Thread Take-up Lever

THE TABLE
to 5 times.
 We will need a small screw driver
 Need to stress on Sub Module 1, Sub-module 3,
 It is advisable not to disturb major machine settings, but every person
needs to be told about the settings
EXERCISES FOR TRAINEE
 Exhibit the effect in stitch formation based by changing tensions

 Try and make the operator to perfect in the setting of the presser feet
 Take a piece of cloth, make a row of stitches, change the stitch length,
make a row parallel to the first row
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 155

 Make the trainees do the exercise on various stitch lengths stitched on a

fabric piece and ask them to observe the difference
Module 8 Do’s and don’ts while sewing 03:25

Sub-module1 Do’s while sewing 02:25
Sub-module2 Don’ts while sewing 01:00

THE TABLE
to 5 times.
 This is more instructional in nature
 The reason for dos and don’ts should be explained
HOMEWORK FOR TRAINEES
 Ask the Trainees to memorize the Do’s and Don’ts
EXERCISE FOR TRAINER
 Suggest some ways of making this module more interactive

The first chapter brings us to an end of a lot of fundamental theoretical inputs the
practical exercises need to be stressed upon at the same time theoretical inputs
need to be reinforced.
All these concepts will be covered in First week of training, the concepts need to
be tested the evaluation methodology is a separate chapter where this is dealt
with in detail the trainees need to be periodically evaluated.
Please identify slow learners, devise test methods that are not very complicated.
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CHAPTER 2 OF KYAN
The crux or the heart of this module is worksheets, this will enable us to achieve
the most critical part i.e. the control over the machines. The exercises start in
a sequential manner, it is therefore essential that control is to be achieved in a
sequential manner.
By clicking on the icon as shown we can get access to a host of icons and by
the icon called the gallery will give access to various symbols used in
worksheets
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 157

Course 2 Worksheets 26:28

K YAN
Module 1 Worksheets
TIME
Low Speed Straight Stitching
Sub-module1 03:05
Sub-module2 Adjustment of Thread Tension 04:55
Sub-module3 04:45
Sub-module4 Manual Reverse Stitching 03:21
Sub-module5 Corner Stitching 03:31
Sub-module6 03:00
Sewing Allowance
Sub-module7 03:31
left curve)

THE TABLE
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Work sHeeT No.1 & 3
Low speed straight stitching & fixed position stop
NAME : DATE
START TIME: END TIME:
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 159


Module 1 Worksheet No 1 K YAN TIME
Low Speed Straight
Sub-module1 Stitching and Fixed
Position Stop
 Present the K Yan content let the trainee follow step by step instructions
 Check how the trainees are handling the paper and fabric, it should be like
a guide and control, some common observations are that trainees hold to
the paper or fabric too tightly.
 The other observation is that some trainees leave the paper or fabric to
run on the machine without trying to guide it along the line.
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NAME : DATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 161


Module 1 Worksheet No 2. K YAN TIME
Adjustment of Thread
Sub-module 2
Tension
 In case of paper exercises a slight push may be required to allow the
paper to run smoothly
 Regularly clean the feed dog as using paper lot of lint gets trapped in the
feed dog.
 This exercise should be started on paper; to begin with for a few exercises
the machine can be run on paper without thread once the control is
achieved one can thread the machine as this exercise is also to be done
on fabric and 2 plies of fabric
 Use of thread on both paper and fabric can also enhance the trainees
experience in setting tension under different conditions
 The trainee should be given the exercises and progressive improvement
should be monitored as per the format
 Exact stops have to be adhered to,
 For paper we can avoid thread, on fabric we can have thread and needle
using 2 plies.
 The trainee may be taken on the fabric once he has finished the paper
exercises.
 Please keep an eye on the posture of the trainee; he should sit as if he
were actually stitching.
 (Methodology same as that for evaluation methodology)
 Calculate the length, set the SPI at 10
 Count the Deviation from the guide lines of the exercise
 Write down the number of dots
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Work sHeeT No.1 & 3
Low speed straight stitching & fixed position stop
NAME : DATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 163


Module 1 Worksheet 3
Sub-module 3
feed dog.
should be monitored as per the format Annexure
 Exact stops have to be adhered to,
using 2 plies.
exercises.
 Write down the number of dots deviated
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Work sHeeT No. 4
Adjustment of thread tension
NAME : DATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 165


Module 1 Worksheet 4 K YAN TIME
Sub-module 4 Manual Reverse Stitching
feed dog.
 Accuracy of reverse stitching has to be attained 4 – 5 reverse stitches,
ensure accuracy of number of stitches and accuracy of the start and stop
points of reverse stitches is to be ensured.
using 2 plies.
exercises.
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Work sHeeT No. 5
corner stitching (with back tack at edges)
NAME : DATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 167


Sub-module 5 Corner Stitching
feed dog.
 Accuracy of turning at points has to be ensured, the needle has to be at
lower position when turning around the point, lift the presser foot.
 Follow back tack point wherever indicated
using 2 plies.
exercises.
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Work sHeeT No. 6
corner stitching (considering sewing allowance)
NAME : DATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 169


Corner Stitching - Taking
Sub-module 6
the Sewing Allowance
feed dog.
 Accuracy of turning at points has to be ensured, the needle has to be at
lower position when turning around the point.
 Follow the back tack symbols, wherever they are there on the exercises.
using 2 plies.
exercises.
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Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 171


Module 1 Worksheet 7 Curve Stitching K YAN TIME
Sub-module 7 Right curve and left curve
feed dog.
using 2 plies.
exercises.
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WITH NEEDLE WITHOUT THREAD ON FABRIC
Worksheet Number Number of Attempts Time Required Standard Time
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
WITH NEEDLE WITH THREAD ON FABRIC WITH NEEDLE & THREAD

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
WITH NEEDLE WITH THREAD ON FABRIC USING 2 PLIES, NEEDLE &

THREAD
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 173

Additional Exercises
Plain Seam and 1/16” Topstitching
Practice joining two pieces of fabric together, 50 pieces, Set of Strips 30 cm x 6
cm are attached in the following manner Attach two pieces of fabric together face
to face. Stitching at fabric edge with 1 cm seam allowance and reverse stitching at
both ends keeping in mind the following fabric edges should be matched, correct
and even seam allowance should be maintained, turn it and do a top stitch
Angular Pocket Setting: Pick up the right side of fabric piece on the machine
needle position. Attach angular pocket on the fabric piece. Stitching 1/16” pocket
line and symmetrically matched to the three sharpening. The Quality requirement
is that correct measurement of all side of pocket edges symmetrically matched
three sharpening. Correct corner turning without stitching of. Use both sides
attach pocket on both sides.
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Alternatively curved pocket seaming may also be tried
This exercise can be done on fabric as well as on paper; the exercise can be
done as follows
The operator can start from No.1 to No. 20 with exact, stops in the circle, this
will serve.
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 175

This will help us to achieve dexterity of eye; hand and foot motion can be used as
a practice, or a test for dexterity. We have also mentioned about this exercise in
the additional exercises required for control.

Space
Additional help to achieve control over the Machine, take a piece of fabric 3 inches
wide and 40 inch length the strip should be marked every 4 inches with double
lines which are exactly equal to the length of the presser foot.
The material should be made seamless; the machine has to be stopped in the
spaces provided i.e. double lines.
Alternatively lines can be provided for guiding the path.
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Sewing
Course4 08:57
Problems
Problems of K YAN
Module1
Stitch Formation TIME
Sub-module1 00:55
Formation
Sub-module2 Unbalanced Stitches 01:31
Sub-module3 Skipped Stitches 01:35
Needle, Bobbin or Looper
Sub-module4 01:45
Thread Breakages
Machine Not Feeding
Sub-module5 01:45
Material
Sub-module6 Variable Stitch Density 00:45
Sub-module7 Staggered Stitches 00:41
Sub-module9
Sewing
 The above module is theoretical, it would be slightly difficult for the trainee
to grasp
 Repeat the K Yan Module repeat it for 6 to 7 times,
 Ask the trainee to memorize or repeat
 This module has pre dominant theoretical content, all the trainers need to
facilitate, by creating samples
 Pick up problems make a tabulation of problem causes and samples
 Recommend ways and means to make the above module more interactive
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 177

 While preparing a session plan ensure that the contents in the above
chapter are spread over not to make the content very theoretical.
 It is very important to develop samples
 Find out a way for Displaying of Samples
Course 4 Module 2 Seam Puckering 22:43

K YAN
TIME
Sub-module2 Use of Thick Needle 0:04:15
Sub-module3 Excessive Thread Tension 0:06:35
Sub-module4 Defective Presser Foot 0:04:21
Sub-module5 Material Flops 0:01:15
Sub-module6 Defective Feed 0:03:45
Sub-module7 Fast Sewing speed 0:00:41
Factors for preventing
Sub-module8 0:01:00
Puckering
to grasp
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 Find out a way of displaying these samples

Course 4 Module3 0:07:43
Mechanical Damage While
Sub-module2 0:03:31
Sewing
Sub-module3 Needle Heating Damage 0:03:31
to grasp
CONSTRUCTION OF MEN’S SHIRT

The parts here are enlisted in the, diagram and it is important to list down all the
parts of the shirt.
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 179

This can be got from by clicking the icon shown below in the K Yan
Construction of
Course5 08:00
Men’s Shirt
Module1 Placket- Making K YAN TIME
Preparation of Left
Sub-module1 05:00
Hand Side Placket
Preparation of Right
Sub-module2 03:00
Hand Side Placket

THE TABLE

 Allow the trainees to follow the K Yan step by step, go along with the K-
yan please also have strict monitoring.
 The Placket may be made with or without the fusing or interlining
 It is advisable to do the exercise on full scale parts and train the students
on full scale parts, We may at first practice with smaller parts
 To have the experience of handling full scale parts are preffered
180 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

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 Check for straightness and cleanliness of stitches
 The K yan has do it yourself and self assessment exercises
 The part processed is a full part and therefore should be retained for
further operations
 You can go to self assessment exercises by clicking the icons in the
following sequence
 Prepare Demonstration samples for clarifying the operations to the

trainees
 Prepare stepwise samples; plan how many sets of samples would be
required.
 Prior to sewing a placket we may test for sewing of 25-inch straight stitch,
turn the seam and make a 25-inch top stitch/edge stitch with minimum
number of stoppages.
Construction of Pocket - Making,

Course5 07:55
Men’s Shirt Attaching
Module 2 Sub-module1 Pocket Preparation 04:10
Pocket attaching 03:45

THE TABLE
 Run the K yan for 4 to 5 times

 You will need the steam press to be on and a pocket pattern, templates for
marking pocket positions.
 Allow the trainees to follow the K –Yan step by step, keep close monitoring
simultaneously.
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 181

 Ensure that back tacks, and stitches are followed properly.

 Variations like parallel row of stitches attachment of flaps can be
incorporated
 It is advisable to do it on a full scale sample to familiarize the trainee on
handling and idea on pocket position
Construction of
Course5 Yoke – Attaching 07:25
Men’s Shirt
Module 3 Sub-module1 Attaching yoke to the back 03:25
Sub-module2 Attaching yoke to the front 04:00

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
You could devise simple step if some trainees find it complicated to turn and
match the correct sides.
Construction Neckband, Collar

Course5 15:48
of Men’s Shirt - Making, Attaching
Collar & Neck Band

Module 6 Sub-module1 08:20
Preparation
Sub-module2 Collar & Neck band Attach 03:25
Sub-module3 Collar Attach to Body 04:03
182 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

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THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
 Handling is very crucial as this involves stitching as along curvature please
observe the trainees if they are handling the collar attachment correctly.
 Quality check points required should be explained elaborately, explain the
quality requirements specifically and elaborately
 Complete all fusing operations prior to the commencement of the class.
Construction of Sleeve Placket

Course5 11:45
Men’s Shirt – Making, Attaching
Upper sleeve placket
Module 4 Sub-module1 04:00
preparation
Lower sleeve placket
Sub-module2 02:00
preparation
Attaching Plackets to
Sub-module3 05:45
the sleeve

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 You will need templates of upper sleeve placket and lower sleeve placket.
handling
 Handling is very crucial as this involves stitching as along angles please
observe the trainees.
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 183

 Quality check points required should be explained elaborately

 All Cutting and creasing to be completed prior to commencement of the class
 This operation may take more time but needs to be covered thoroughly
Attaching - Sleeve, Making

Module 5 06:00
- Side Seam
Sub-module1 Sleeve Attach 03:00
Sub-module2 Side Seam 03:00

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 You will need to use the over lock machine
 It is advisable to do it on a full scale sample to familiarize the trainee
on handling
 Handling is very crucial as this involves stitching along curvatures with
overlock machine.
 Make notches to facilitate identification of front and back
 Devise methodology to identify the right hand side and left hand side
sleeve and correct attachment of the same.
Module 7 Making and Attaching Cuff 08:15

Sub-module1 Cuff preparation 03:35
Sub-module2 Cuff Attach to Sleeve 04:40
184 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
 Complete all fusing operations prior to the commencement of the class.
Hemming, Button - Holing,

Module 8 07:15
Attaching
Sub-module3 Button Attaching 02:40

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
 As Buttonholing and Button sewing machines are not a part of the
configuration we can only demonstrate.
 Explain templates for button hole marking
 Explain the position of button hole marking while placing on the machine
 Make samples
 Explain Quality points and problems associated
 Remember this is just a demonstration module
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 185

 Devise a methodology that the trainee will remember the method

 Design your samples
 Design an exercise for defining the sizes of buttons
 Explain various types of button stitches
MAKING OF A SHIRT THROUGH THE USE OF FOLDERS

Sewing Machine
Course3 0:09:56
Work Aids
Module1 Aids for Sewing 09:56
Sub-module1 Introduction 00:40
Sub-module2 Plait Folder 01:21
Sub-module3 01:25
Attachment
Single Needle Shoulder
Sub-module4 01:45
Topstitch Attachment
Sub-module5 Sleeve Placket Binder 01:45
Single Needle Sleeve
Sub-module6 01:15
Attachment
Sub-module7 Cuff Setter 00:45
Sub-module8 Bottom Hemming Folder 00:45
Open able Top Swing
Sub-module9 00:15
Folder

THE TABLE
 Use the K Yan Module on Sewing Machine Work Aids

 Run it 4 – 5 times
 Fix the folders on to the machine
 Explain the trainees finer points of handling as per the K yan content
186 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
 Follow step by step as shown
 Demonstrate to all the trainees at least once

 Recommended that the trainees are made to complete a garment through
folders as they will appreciate the time saving and ease of operation.
 Evolve an assessment on how many times a trainee may be made to

practice and how many trainees should be given exposure to various kinds
of folders.
 Demonstrate the time difference to the trainees on the use and non-use of
folders.
 Explain the advantages of the use of folders
MAJOR EXERCISE FOR THE TRAINER IS THAT THEY NEED TO
LIST OUT AND EXPERIMENT THE USE OF VARIOUS COMPENSATING FEET

THAT CAN BE USED IN THE MAKING OF SHIRTS
 Explain the advantages of using the various compensating feet, and

demonstrate the different feet to the trainees.
 Design exercises to train the trainees on use of compensating feet.
FOR ALL THE ABOVE OPERATIONS SEE IF YOU CAN EVOLVE TIME
STANDARDS FOR THE TRAINEE, IN CASE OF SPECIFIC BREIFS IT CAN BE
USED AS A GUIDELINE FOR TRAINING
IF THERE ARE SOME INDUSTRIAL METHODS THE TRAINER KNOWS HE

MAY ALSO MAKE THE TRAINEES AWARE AND DEMONSTRATE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 187

PLEASE NOTE, COMPLETE ALL PREPRATORY EXERCISE BEFORE THE

COMMENCEMENT OF CLASS ALL DISTRIBUTION TO BE DONE BEFORE
THE COMMENCEMENT OF CLASS, DONOT CONSUME THE CLASS TIME
FOR SUCH ACTIVITIES
PLEASE NOTE, DISCOURAGE THE USE OF SCISSORS AS IT INCREASES

THE HANDLING TIME
FAMILIARISE TRAINEE WITH ALL OPERATIONS BUT YOU CAN

CONCENTERATE ON THE FOLLOWING
 COLLAR MAKING
 COLLAR ATTACH
 FRONT POCKET ATTACH
 SLEEVE PLACKET
 SLEEVE ATTACH TO ARM HOLE
CONSTRUCTION OF MEN’S TROUSER

Construction of
Course6 0:48:15
Men’s Trousers
Module1 Pocket – Making, Attaching 17:40

Preparation of
Sub-module1 04:25
Pocket bag (front)
Pocket attach
Sub-module2 05:15
(front)
Back Pocket
Sub-module3 08:00
Making

THE TABLE

188 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
simultaneously.
handling
 Before start of the class ensure that all cutting is complete
 It is important to develop proficiency on overlock machine also as some of
the preparatory operations require the use of overlock
 Please follow instructions like notch marks properly
 The methods of making the back pocket is quite elaborate and needs to be
done thoroughly
 Using full scale parts is advisable but thorough practice on miniature parts
is a must
 Try to teach the critical putting the v cut for back pocket otherwise we will
never be able to get a perfect welt pocket
 Prepare lecture notes

 Try and devise a simple method for the back pocket / welt pocket making
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Module2 Fly – Making, Attaching 03:00
Sub-module1 Fly making and attach 03:00


THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 It is advisable to do it on a full scale sample to familiarize the trainee
on handling
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 189


 The methods of making the fly is quite elaborate and needs to be done
thoroughly
is a must
 Prepare lecture notes, and demonstration samples

 Make the trainees do parts and observe the progressive improvement
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Module3 Zipper - Attaching 07:00
Sub-module1 Zipper attach 07:00

THE TABLE

 Allow the trainees to follow the K –Yan step by step
handling
 The methods of zipper attach is quite elaborate and needs to be done
thoroughly
190 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
is a must
 As zippers are expensive we may rip off the zipper and re use it
 Through practice is required before full scale operation.
 Prepare lecture notes, and demonstration samples

 Try and give practice of the zipper
 Explore the possibility of using zipper foot
 Make the trainees do the exercise on small parts first record the
improvement
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Module4 Back Rise - Attaching 02:00
Sub-module1 Back rise attach 02:00

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
 It is important to develop proficiency on overlock machine also as the
operation can be carried out with the use of overlock
 Using full scale parts is advisable but, thorough practice on miniature parts
is a must
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 191

 Explain the uses of different seams that are possible on the back rise
using different machine and stitch types.
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Front Back Pieces
Module5 06:35
- Attaching
Sub-module1 Front and back attach 06:35

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
handling
 It is important to develop proficiency on overlock machine also as the
operation requires the use of overlock
is a must
 Ensure that the trainee attains a fair amount of control on the overlock
machine.
192 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Belt and Loop – Making,
Module6 04:50
Attaching
Sub-module1 Belt loop making 01:05
Sub-module2 Belt and loop attach 03:45

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 Note this module is a very basic way of making belt loops
 Most of the trouser making units use a flat lock machine with a folder
 Explain to the trainees that this is just to make use of the lock stitch
machine and in training to complete the trouser.
 In the industrial method a folder is used for making belt loops , and belt
loops are attached using bar tack
 Explain the Industrial method and make them do the present method
because it will enable us to complete the trouser
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Module7 Bottom Hemming 01:00

THE TABLE
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 193


simultaneously.
 Pay attention to the direction in which in seam and outseam is turned
 Handling of the margin for bottom hemming is important
 Try and explore the possibility of using an attachment and a perimeter type
machine used for hemming at least make the trainees familiar
Construction of
Course6
Men’s Trousers
Module8 Buttons –Holing, Attaching 03:20
Sub-module2 Button Attach 02:20

Module9 Bar tacking 02:50
Sub-module1 Bar tacking 02:50

THE TABLE

 These machine configuration is not available with us so we need to show
this to student and give basic understanding of the process
 Familiarize with different types of button hole stitches
PLEASE NOTE, COMPLETE ALL PREPRATORY EXERCISE BEFORE THE

COMMENCEMENT OF CLASS ALL DISTRIBUTION TO BE DONE BEFORE
THE COMMENCEMENT OF CLASS, DONOT CONSUME THE CLASS TIME
FOR SUCH ACTIVITIES
194 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
IF THERE ARE SOME INDUSTRIAL METHODS THE TRAINER KNOWS HE
MAY ALSO MAKE THE TRAINEES AWARE AND DEMONSTRATE
PLEASE NOTE, DISCOURAGE THE USE OF SCISSORS AS IT INCREASES

THE HANDLING TIME
FAMILIARISE TRAINEE WITH ALL OPERATIONS BUT YOU CAN

CONCENTERATE ON THE FOLLOWING
 BACK / WELT POCKET

 FLY & ZIP ATTACH
 FRONT POCKET
CONSTRUCTION OF MEN’S POLO SHIRT
Contsruction of
Course7 0:22:25
Men’s Polo Shirt
Module1 Front placket -Making 09:00
Preparation of Front
Sub-module1 09:00
Placket

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 Ensure that Placket pieces are also fused
 Try to devise a method using pre cut pieces and try avoid using scissors
 Try to repeat the process and put it across
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 195

 Design an exercise to give practice of top stitching of the placket

 Try to give pre cut pieces to the operator
 Box Making will require some more practice
Construction of
Course7
Men’s Polo Shirt
Module2 Shoulder - Attaching 02:30
Procedure for Shoulder
Sub-module1 02:30
Attach

THE TABLE

simultaneously.
 Industrially overlock machine is used directly instead of a combination
of lock stitch and overlock machine, the industrial method can also be
explained
 Explain the shoulder tape attachment on overlock machine, which uses

mobilon tape
196 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
Construction of
Course7
Men’s Polo Shirt
Module3 03:15
Hemming
Procedure for Sleeve
Sub-module1 01:10
Attach
Procedure for
Attaching Front and
Sub-module2 00:50
Back Along Sleeve
(Side Seam)
Hemming Sleeve
Sub-module3 01:15
Bottom.

THE TABLE

 Explain the process of keeping the sleeves and positioning properly
 Proficiency of flatlock machine is also required
 This is only possible for centers having Knit Configuration
 Trainees are to be given an idea of different types of slits and their making
Construction of
Course7
Men’s Polo Shirt
Module4 Collar -Attaching 06:40
Procedure for Collar
Sub-module1 06:40
Attaching
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 197


THE TABLE

 Industrially a collar tape is used you can also explain this method
 Ensure that you have the collars
 You will also need to explain the procedure for closing of the collar seam
using a special tape or twill tape.
Construction of
Course7
Men’s Polo Shirt
Buttons – Holing,
Module5 00:50
Attaching
Button holing and button
Sub-module1 00:50
attach

THE TABLE

 Explain a the process well
 These machines are not available so explain the process available
 Explain about button marking.
198 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

course 1
Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 199

200 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

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

INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 

At IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative Limited, we have attempted to create

RCM Reddy, IAS,

IL&FS CDI Limited

 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Dr. NVR Nathan,

IL&FS CDI Limited

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 

 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

a.) History of vocational Training

b.) Role of a Trainer

II.) Production Methods with their relevance in Training

IV) Guidelines for Interviewing and Dexterity Tests

V) Reviewing the K yan Content

Sewing Machine Operator Program

Total number of modules 13

Course1 Fundamentals of sewing machines

Sub-module1 Definition of Sewing Machines

Sub-module2 Types of Sewing Machines

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 

 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Do’s and don’ts while

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 

Sub-module5 Corner Stitching

Course3 Sewing Machine Folders and attachments

Course4 Sewing Problems

 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Module2 Seam Puckering

Damage to the Fabric

Course5 Construction of Men’s Shirt

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 

Module3 Yoke – Attaching

Making and Attaching

10 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Course6 Construction of Men’s Trousers

Module3 Zipper - Attaching

Module4 Back Rise - Attaching

Front Back Pieces

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 11

Belt and Loop –

Module7 Bottom Hemming

Module9 Bar tacking

Course7 Construction of Men’s Polo Shirt

Module2 Shoulder - Attaching

12 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

III) Training on an overlock Machine

V) Preparation of Session Plan (Review & Monitoring)

VII) Designing a Training Module Practical Exercises

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 13

HISTORY OF VOCATIONAL TRAINING

14 | Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

The uniqueness of the programme is

 Familiarization with machine and Factory Basics.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. | 15

 Familiarization with Fabric & Actual Sewing Conditions.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

| Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

| Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

| Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

| Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd.

Seam 2007 © IL&FS Ltd. |

. The improvement of processes and procedures

. “Why is this operation necessary?”

. Determining the work methods: Work methods should be determined

. Carefully explain the purpose of the time measurement so that the

. Unexpected actions or changes in the work procedure may occur even