Eat well and prosper José Pizarro

Black beans
Felicity Cloake
How to make the
Ottolenghi’s Chinese New Year with ham hock perfect fishcakes
Miguel Barclay Rachel Roddy
Aubergine milanese Italian breakfast
dipping biscuits
Meera Sodha
Chickpea and Kitchen aide
potato curry Pressure cookers
Ravinder Bhogal Tom Hunt
Pot-roast chicken Coffee kombucha
with winter citrus
Grace Dent
Benjamina Ebuehi ‘A gamechanger for
Issue No.260 Saturday 14 January 2023 Vegan orange friands vegan restaurants’
2 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 Yotam Stir-fried romaine
with sweet-and-
sour cashews
Ottolenghi
Prep 8 min Steamed greens provide a touch
Cook 20 min of comfort and respite from
Serves 4 the cacophony of flavours and
Cost About £1 textures in a Chinese-style feast.
a head This dish is quick to make and
best served hot, but it’s also
For the cashews
50g cashew nuts, lovely in a sandwich with some
halved cold cuts and/or boiled eggs.
2 tbsp satsuma juice
(ie, from 1 satsuma),
or tangerine or
First, make the sticky cashews.
orange juice Set a large, high-sided saute pan for
½ tsp honey which you have a lid on a medium-
I always think that New Year’s eve falls ⅛ tsp chilli flakes
½ tsp sesame seeds
high heat. Add the cashews and
toast, tossing frequently, for five
a bit too close to Christmas to be made ¼ tsp sesame oil
½ tsp vegetable oil, minutes, until golden. Pour in
the most of. We’re all too full and knackered plus 1 tbsp extra for the satsuma juice, cook, stirring
the stir-fry
to lean into yet more celebrations so soon, Fine sea salt and
constantly, for 20 seconds, then
black pepper add the honey, chilli flakes, sesame
and lack the headspace to make resolutions seeds, both oils, an eighth of a
For the stir-fry
for the year ahead. Chinese New Year, on the 2 romaine lettuces
teaspoon of salt and a good grind
(550g), cut of pepper. Mix well to coat, tip
other hand, which is next Sunday, is so well widthways into out on to a tray and set aside.
PHOTOGRAPHS: PHOTOGRAPHS (INCLUDING COVER): LOUISE HAGGER/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: EMILY KYDD.

timed that everyone might want to mark it. 3cm chunks

1 tsp rice-wine
Wipe the pan clean, put it back on
a high heat and add a tablespoon of
Not only do we have the renewed energy to vinegar
1 tsp honey vegetable oil. Once it’s hot, add the
think about another feast, the food associated 1 tbsp satsuma juice
¼ tsp sesame seeds
lettuce and a quarter-teaspoon of
salt, and mix quickly to coat. Cover
with the Spring Festival is exactly what we 10g mint leaves,
the pan and leave the lettuce to
PROP STYLING: JENNIFER KAY. FOOD ASSISTANT: KRISTINE JAKOBSSON. INSET: GETTY IMAGES

roughly chopped
should be eating at this time of the year: steam for three minutes, stirring it
ste
once halfway through. Remove the
on
steamed greens, slivers of aromatic ginger lid and cook for five minutes more,
and chilli, toasted seeds and sticky nuts. stirring frequently, until the lettuce
sti
has wilted, then mix in the vinegar,
ha
Hop along! Happy year of the rabbit! honey, satsuma juice, sesame
ho
seeds, a tablespoon of chopped
se
mint and an eighth of a teaspoon
mi
of salt, and take off the heat.
Mix in three-quarters of the
sticky nuts, then tip into a large,
sti
shallow bowl and serve with the
sh
remaining cashews and mint
rem
scattered all over the top. 
sc

Vegetarian Vegan Gluten

en free Dairy free Feast 3
 Spiced longevity
noodles with
crispy duck

Prep 25 min Longevity noodles are eaten at

Cook 2 hr Chinese New Year to symbolise a
Serves 4 long and happy life. Use extra-long
Cost About £2 noodles, such as fresh youmian,
a head from an Asian food store, or large
nests of dried noodles from the
2 x 320g duck legs
Salt supermarket. To reduce the
3 tsp aleppo chilli cooking time – and to turn the dish
4 garlic cloves, vegan – simply omit the duck.
peeled and crushed
¼ tsp ground white
pepper (or ½ tsp Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/
if not using the gas 9. Pierce the skin of each duck leg
Sichuan pepper six times with the tip of a sharp knife,
below)
½ tsp fennel seeds, then season with three-quarters of a
lightly crushed in teaspoon of salt and lay skin side up
a mortar on an oven rack set on top of a tray.
8 Sichuan
peppercorns, lightly
Roast for 30 minutes, until golden,
crushed in a mortar then turn down the heat to 185C
(optional) (165C fan)/gas 4½. Turn the legs skin
10g knob fresh side down, roast for another 20
ginger, peeled and
julienned minutes, then flip again and roast
3 bundles dried for 25 minutes more, until the skin
medium egg is nice and crisp. Remove, leave to
noodles (190g)
rest for five minutes, then use two
110g beansprouts
65ml vegetable oil forks to shred the meat and skin
1 tbsp light soy sauce into large pieces (discard the bones).
1 tbsp dark soy sauce Put the chilli, garlic, white pepper,
1½ tsp chinkiang
vinegar (or 1 tsp fennel, Sichuan pepper (if using)
rice-wine vinegar and ginger in a large bowl.
mixed with ½ tsp Half-fill a medium pan with water,
soy sauce) bring to a boil, then cook the noodles
30g spring onions,
julienned according to the packet instructions,
1 tsp sesame seeds, adding the beansprouts for the last
toasted minute of cooking. Drain, then set
the colander over a large bowl and
leave to steam dry for a minute.
Meanwhile, put the oil in a small
saucepan on a medium-high heat
for three or four minutes, until it’s
visibly hot, but not smoking. Pour
the hot oil over the chilli and garlic
mixture in the bowl, then stir in
both soy sauces and the vinegar.
Add the noodles and toss gently to
coat, taking care that you do not
break them up.
Transfer to a lipped platter,
scatter the shredded duck, spring
onions and sesame seeds on top,
and serve hot.

4 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023

 Steamed fish with
vinegar and soy

Prep 25 min A steamed whole fish is often the medium heat. Add the oil and the
Cook 20 min centrepiece of Chinese New Year leek and ginger mixture, and fry,
Serves 2-4 celebrations, and is believed to stirring, for two minutes, until the
Cost About £4 bring prosperity and abundance leeks have softened but not coloured.
a head for the coming year. This method Tip out on to a lipped platter and
of steaming is not only speedy, put the pan back on the heat.
175ml rice-wine
vinegar it’s also all that is required to Strain the infused sauce mix into
80ml Shaoxing wine bring together the flavoursome the saute pan, then discard the star
75ml soy sauce sauce. For ease, I have adapted anise and scatter the remaining
1 star anise
1 tsp fennel seeds
the usual approach and used strained spices over the cooked leek.
1 tsp cumin seeds fish fillets, but by all means go Bring the sauce to a simmer, then
1 tsp aleppo chilli down the more traditional route place an oiled steamer basket on
2 tbsp demerara and use a whole fish instead, if top. Lay in the fish fillets skin side
sugar
1 large leek (200g), you prefer. If you don’t have a down, cover and steam for three
dark green tops steamer, just fry the fish and serve to four minutes, until the fish is
removed, the rest it with the sauce and aromatics. opaque and cooked through (cook for
cut first into thirds
and then into
longer if your fish fillets are thicker
matchsticks Put the first eight ingredients in a or if you’re using a whole fish).
25g knob fresh small saucepan with four tablespoons Lift the steamer off the heat,
ginger, peeled and of water. Bring to a boil on a then use a spatula gently to lift out
cut into matchsticks
(use a mandoline, if medium-high heat, then turn down the fish (peel off and discard the
you have one) to medium, simmer for 10 minutes, skin, if you like). Arrange the fish
2 tbsp vegetable take off the heat and set aside. fillets on top of the leeks and pour
oil, plus 1 tsp extra
Mix the leek with half the ginger, the sauce all over the top. Serve
to finish
4 x 90g skin-on and put a wide, high-sided saute hot with the reserved ginger, chilli
sustainably sourced pan for which you have a lid on a and coriander scattered on top.
sea bass, sea bream
or red snapper
fillets, each about
2½cm thick
1 red chilli,
deseeded and
julienned
10g coriander,
leaves and soft
stems

Feast 5
6 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 José Pizarro Black beans
with ham hock
Spill the beans and cabbage

Soak Overnight The area around Tolosa in the

Prep 10 min Basque country is famous for its
Cook 1 hr 30 min beans, from purple to black, and
Serves 4 they tend to be firm with a creamy
Cost About £3 texture and gorgeous nuttiness;
a head if you can’t find them, use dried
black beans, turtle beans or
400g dried alubias
I love British winters, and being negras de Tolosa, kidney beans instead. The dish is
or any other dried traditionally made with chorizo,
outside on crisp, cold days, as well as black beans morcilla and pork belly, but this is
3 tbsp extra-virgin
steaming up at indoor parties. Although olive oil, plus extra
a simplified version of the original.
to finish It features only a small amount
people say January is the deepest, 2 medium onions, of meat, and plenty of fabulous
peeled and finely
darkest month, we have incredible sliced
winter vegetables, with just a little
pimentón for its lovely warmth.
winter produce, such as iron-rich 1 large leek, trimmed
and finely sliced
brassicas and sweet leeks, all of which 1 fresh bay leaf
A few sprigs each
Soak the beans in cold water
overnight. The next day, drain the
are begging to be part of warming soups fresh thyme and
oregano beans, tip them into a pan and add
and stews. Dried beans are another 2 garlic cloves, enough cold water to cover by about
peeled and finely 2½cm. Bring to a boil, turn down the
winter essential, being both hearty and sliced
heat and simmer for an hour, until
1 tsp pimentón de
affordable, so I always have some in la vera the beans are just tender.
1 good pinch chilli Meanwhile, put the oil in a large
the store cupboard, ready for action. flakes, plus extra
pan or casserole on a medium heat,
to finish
250ml white wine then gently fry the onions and
500ml chicken stock leek, stirring, for 10 minutes, until
Salt and black softened. Add the herbs, garlic
pepper
and spices, fry, stirring, for a few
PROP STYLING: LOUIE WALLER. FOOD ASSISTANT: HANNA MILLER. INSET: GETTY IMAGES

200g cavolo nero

or curly kale, thick minutes more, then pour in the
stalks rem
removed and wine, raise the heat and leave to
PHOTOGRAPH: YUKI SUGIURA/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: AYA NISHIMURA.

discarded or saved bubble until reduced by half.

for stock
stock, the rest
shredded Drain the beans, reserving
180g shredded
shr ham a couple of ladlefuls of their
hock cooking water, and add both to
2 tsp sherry
she or
moscate
moscatel vinegar
the onion pan. Add the stock,
season generously and simmer
gently uncovered for about
20-30 minutes, until the beans
are very tender and the juices
have reduced and thickened.
Add the cavolo nero, cover the pot
and cook for four or five minutes,
just to wilt. Stir in the shredded
ham hock and vinegar, just to heat
through, then ladle into bowls and
serve with a drizzle of extra-virgin
olive oil, a scattering of chilli flakes
and a good grind of black pepper.

Feast 7
Miguel Barclay Aubergine
milanese
The £1 store
cupboard
Prep 10 min Here’s my meat-free twist on a
Cook 20 min classic Italian dish. I especially
Serves 1 love the contrasting texture of the
Cost About £1 crisp, seasoned breadcrumbs and
the buttery-soft aubergine flesh.
Salt and pepper Definitely cook this on a medium-
1 tbsp plain flour
1 egg, beaten low heat, so you get a lovely, even,
1 handful golden colour.
A comparatively bulky veg that breadcrumbs
1 x 1cm-thick slice
can hold its own, the aubergine aubergine
Start by bringing a saucepan of
Olive oil salted water to a boil. Grab three
can definitely be the star of the show. 100g spaghetti plates and put the flour on one, and
¼ onion, diced
That’s the trick behind cooking for £1: 1 garlic clove,
season, the beaten egg on another
and the breadcrumbs, seasoned, on
what can I buy that is cheap but peeled and sliced
⅓ x 400g tin the third. Dredge the aubergine in
substantial enough to fill up a plate? chopped tomatoes the flour, then in the egg, and then
in the breadcrumbs, and fry gently
Aubergine has a luxuriant quality in a splash of olive oil on a medium-
that gives it a premium status among low heat for about seven minutes on
each side, until golden brown and
vegetables, making it a perfect meat cooked through.
substitute without the disappointment. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in
the boiling water until al dente,
then drain.
In a separate pan, fry the onion
and garlic in a splash of olive oil on
a medium heat for a few minutes
and, just as the garlic starts to
brown, add the chopped tomatoes,
season and simmer for about 10
minutes, until the tomatoes have
m
broken down into a nice sauce.
bro
Mix
Mi the drained pasta with the
sauce, adding a little of the cooking
water to loosen as required, and
serve with
wi the crumbed slice of
aubergine alongside.
aubergin

8 Feast
ast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 Chinese aubergine
and sticky rice

Prep 5 min This intricately presented dish is

Cook 30 min actually really easy to prepare – just
Serves 1 score the aubergine flesh and mix
Cost About £1 up a simple marinade. The key is
getting the marinade to go all sticky
100g rice as you keep basting the aubergine.
Salt
1 aubergine
2 tbsp sesame oil Heat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/
2 tbsp honey gas 5. Put the rice in a saucepan
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 pinch chilli flakes
with 200ml water, add a pinch
1 garlic clove, of salt, and cook for about seven
peeled and grated minutes, until all the water has been
1 pinch sesame seeds absorbed and the rice is cooked.
½ spring onion, cut
into thin matchsticks Cut the aubergine in half
lengthways, score the flesh all over
PHOTOGRAPHS: YUKI SUGIURA/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: VALERIE BERRY. PROP STYLING: LOUIE WALLER. FOOD ASSISTANT: ALICE EARLL.

in a diamond pattern, making sure

you don’t cut through the skin,
and put on an oven tray or dish.
Next, mix the sesame oil,
honey, soy, chilli and grated garlic,
then spoon over the aubergine
and bake for about 20 minutes,
periodically spooning the
marinade over the aubergine.
Once the marinade is nice
and sticky and the aubergine
is cooked through, pour any
remaining marinade from the
tray over the top, sprinkle with
the sesame seeds and spring
onions, and serve with the rice.
Recipes adapted from Meat-Free One
Pound Meals and Super-Easy One
Pound Meals, both by Miguel Barclay
and published by Headline at £16.99.

Feast 9
10 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 Meera Sodha Chickpea and
potato curry with
The new quick paratha
vegan
Prep 5 min You’ll need a blender or small food
Cook 55 min processor to make this. You can
Serves 4 find pre-made paratha in Indian
Cost About £1.50 supermarkets, if you don’t want to
a head make your own.
1 onion, peeled and
roughly chopped First make the curry paste. Put the
Potato curry was the defining dish 2 tbsp tomato puree
(40g)
onion, tomato puree, oil, garlic,
sambal oeleck and lime leaves in a
of my youth and, if I’m honest, I didn’t 75ml neutral oil
– I tend to use
blender and blitz to a smooth paste,
love it back then (sorry, Mum). But, as rapeseed oil stopping to scrape down the sides as
5 garlic cloves, necessary (if your blender is
sometimes happens with things you peeled struggling, add water a tablespoon
2½ tbsp sambal
disliked as a child (antiques, Neil oeleck – Yeo’s is at a time to loosen the mix). Scrape
my go-to, and is the paste into a large saucepan and
Diamond and my sister, for example), probably the easiest cook on a medium heat, stirring
to find in the world
they come full circle and in later life food aisle of larger
often, for about 10-12 minutes, until
it starts to come away from the sides
you find a certain intense sort of love supermarkets and in
south-east Asian of the pan and releases some of the
for them. Today’s recipe isn’t my food stores
4 fresh or frozen
oil back into the pan.
Stir in the salt, the chickpeas and
family’s potato curry, though; rather, it’s makrut lime leaves,
deveined their water, the potatoes and the
one I made with an urge in my belly to 1½ tsp fine sea salt coconut milk, turn up the heat and
500g maris piper
bring to a boil, which should take
feel at home again, and I was so pleased potatoes, or another
about five minutes. Turn the heat
fl
floury variety,
with the results that it might becomee pe
peeled and cut into to low and simmer for a further 20
3cm pieces minutes, stirring occasionally, until
a defining dish of my adult years. 2 x 400g tins
the potatoes are fudge-soft.
PROP STYLING: JENNIFER KAY. FOOD ASSISTANT: KRISTINE JAKOBSSON. INSET: GETTY IMAGES

chick
chickpeas, not
drain
drained If you’re making the paratha, clean
1 x 400ml
40 tin and lightly flour a work surface.
coconu
coconut milk Unwrap the pastry and pinch off
PHOTOGRAPHS: LOUISE HAGGER/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: EMILY KYDD.

For the paratha

p about 60g per paratha (save any
(or use shop-
sh excess pastry for another use). Roll
bought onones) each piece into a ball, then squash
1 x 500g block
bl puff
pastry doug
dough
between your palms to form a patty.
Plain flour, fo
for Coat both sides with flour, then roll
dusting out into a 18-20cm round and repeat
with the remaining dough.
Put a nonstick frying pan on a
medium-high heat and, when hot,
lay in one pastry round and cook for
a minute and a half, turning every
30 seconds, until dark brown spots
appear and there is no visible
uncooked (ie, translucent) dough on
either side. Transfer to a plate and
repeat with the remaining dough.
Ladle the curry into a large bowl
or individual bowls, and serve with
abbig pile of parathas alongside.

Feast 11
12 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 Ravinder Bhogal
Hello sunshine

The bounty of bright lightly, then transfer to paper. Melt the butter in oven tray lined with
citrus brings delight to the plate. a pan on a low heat, then baking paper and dust
even the darkest of Add the fennel seeds brush generously all over with icing sugar. Heat a
winter days. Use every and orange zest to the both sides of the sliced knob of butter in a large
precious part – skin, flesh pan, fry briefly, then brioche. Lay the bread on frying pan, lay in a few
and juice – to add sharp, pour in the stock, the tray and toast in the slices sugared side down
sweet and bitter flavours Pernod and orange juice, hot oven for 25 minutes, and cook until
to savoury dishes and and whisk in the ‘nduja. until golden. Leave to caramelised. Dust with
puddings alike. Carefully place the cool a little, then more icing sugar, flip and
chicken, garlic, fennel generously spread one caramelise for another
Pot-roast chicken and citrus back in the side with marmalade. minute or two. Transfer
with ’nduja, fennel pot, add the olives and Turn down the oven back to the tray, wipe out
and winter citrus bring to a boil. Leave to to 160C (140C fan)/gas 3 the pan and repeat with
bubble for two minutes, and line a 900g loaf tin the remaining brioche.
then cover and pop in with baking paper, letting Transfer to the oven
the hot oven for 30–35 it overhang the sides. to heat through for five
Prep 20 min minutes, until the Arrange the slices of minutes, then serve
chicken is cooked all the bread inside it, as if you topped with caramelised
Cook 45 min
way through. Sprinkle were rebuilding the loaf. clementines and a scoop
Serves 4 with parsley and serve. In a bowl, whisk the of vanilla ice-cream.
Cost About £4 a head eggs, egg yolks, creme
Marmalade toast fraiche, caster sugar and Flu-busting
2 tbsp extra-virgin pudding the vanilla seeds until citrus juice
olive oil smooth, then whisk in
Sea salt and black the cream. Pour this all
pepper over the bread, in
4 whole chicken legs Prep 25 min batches if need be. Prep 5 min
(ie, thigh and drumstick) Leave to soak for a good
Soak 30 min Makes 4 glasses
2 medium fennel bulbs, 30 minutes, then scatter
each cut into 4-6 wedges Cook 1 hr 15 min Cost About £1 a head
over the extra sugar and
1 garlic bulb, cut in half Chill 4 hr + bake for 45-50 minutes,
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLA O SMIT/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: SAM DIXON. PROP STYLING: ANNA WILKINS

3 blood oranges, cut Serves 8 100g jaggery, grated

until golden and firm,
into 8 wedges 2½cm knob fresh ginger,
Cost About £2 a head and a skewer comes out
2 lemons, cut into peeled and finely grated
clean. Leave to cool in 2½cm fresh turmeric,
wedges
Juice of 2 seville or navel 150g unsalted butter, the tin, then chill for finely grated
oranges, and the zest of 1 plus extra for frying four hours, and ideally Juice of 4 blood oranges
1 tbsp fennel seeds 400g brioche loaf, cut overnight, until firm. Juice of 4 limes
150ml chicken stock into thick slices To make the caramel Sea salt and black
60ml Pernod, or dry 200g marmalade clementines, swirl the pepper, to taste
white wine 4 eggs and 4 egg yolks sugar, 100ml water, Chaat masala, to taste
3 tbsp ’nduja 600g creme fraiche lemon peel and vanilla Some thin orange and
150g green olives 150g caster sugar, plus pod in a saucepan on a lime slices, to garnish
Finely chopped flat-leaf extra for dusting medium-high heat until
parsley, to garnish 1 vanilla pod, split and the sugar dissolves. Put the jaggery, ginger,
seeds scraped out (save Bring to a boil and turmeric and 125ml
the pod for the caramel) continue to swirl for
Heat the oven to 200C water in a small pan and
350ml double cream eight to 10 minutes,
(180C fan)/gas 6. Put cook on a low heat until
Icing sugar, to finish until you have a dark
a large casserole on a the sugar dissolves.
Vanilla ice-cream, or
medium-high heat and amber, almost bitter Bring to a simmer, bubble
clotted cream, to serve
add the oil. Season the caramel. Carefully fish for three minutes, until
chicken well, then fry For the caramel out and discard the you have a light syrup,
until golden brown all clementines lemon peel and vanilla leave to cool, then chill.
over and transfer to a 200g caster sugar pod. Add the clementine Mix the citrus juices
large plate. Lay the The juice of 1 lemon, rings, lemon and with a litre of water.
fennel wedges and plus 1 thin strip of zest clementine juice – be Strain the jaggery syrup,
halved garlic heads cut 3 clementines, peeled, careful, because it will discarding the solids,
side down in the pan, pith removed and cut spit – stir to combine, then mix with the citrus
cook until lightly horizontally into rings then leave to cool. juice and add salt,
browned all over, then 2 tbsp clementine juice Heat the oven to pepper and chaat masala
transfer to the chicken 180C (160C fan)/gas 4. to taste. Decant into a
plate. Add the orange Heat the oven to 180C Turn the pudding out of jug and add the slices of
and lemon wedges, cook (160C fan)/gas 4 and line the loaf tin, cut it into orange and lime. Serve
briefly to caramelise an oven tray with baking thick slices, lay it on an poured over ice.

Feast 13
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Fiona Beckett
Whites to drink with
spicy Asian food
You could be forgiven for having the Wine with spicy food is
impression that the entire country is contentious, of course, and there’s
doing dry January, but only 130,000 still a school of thought that you’re
of us did so in 2022, according to being pretentious or wilful in
Alcohol Change (that said, there must drinking anything but lager.
have been many thousands more Obviously, as a wine lover, I disagree,
who didn’t sign up). So it’s easy to and there are many wines that work
forget that they are still a minority, perfectly well with Chinese food.
and that there might be many who The ones most people instinctively
think January would be improved by reach for are aromatic whites,
a glass of something slightly stronger. especially gewürztraminer and
Foodwise, too, I find that now is riesling. But do they work? Yes, for
a time when I react against the rich, the most part, although the problem
heavy fare of Christmas and have with wines of such distinctive
even got marginally bored with character is that they can jar as often
comfort food. I want the zip, zing and as they hit the spot. For instance,
fiery kick of Korean, Sichuan and gewürztraminer is great with duck
other spicy cuisines, and the clean (especially if ginger’s involved), but
freshness and crunch of south-east less good with dim sum or steamed
Asian salads. Fortunately, we have fish. (Asda has a very decent one in
Chinese and Vietnamese New Year its Extra Special range at £7.50,
next weekend to scratch that itch. though it’s not as good as the
Seifried in today’s pick), while a The good This drink uses the acidity and
delicate, dry riesling won’t make sweetness of balsamic vinegar to
Four aromatic whites much headway with mapo tofu,
mixer add depth to the classic negroni,
worth exploring say. The fierier the dish, the more Black gold and uses orange blossom-infused
sweetness you generally need. negroni gin to add a layer of floral notes.
In fact, Alsace so dominates the It’s on the menu at our newest
Emiliana Novas Riesling conversation about wine and spice Serves 1 trattoria, Jacuzzi, on High Street
2021 £9.59 Rannoch that many other wines don’t get For the infused gin Kensington, London, which
Scott, 13.5%. Has a vivid much of a look-in. Try other 200ml London dry opens later this month.
lime streak that goes well countries’ take on those grapes – gin
2g orange blossom
with Vietnamese salads New Zealand is particularly strong First make the orange blossom
PHOTOGRAPH: ROB LAWSON/THE GUARDIAN. DRINK STYLING: SEB DAVIS

tea (or dried orange

on aromatics – or travel farther blossom) – we use gin. Bring a small pan of water
Ara Single Vineyard Pinot afield with Argentina’s torrontes, the one from The to a simmer, and put the gin and
Gris 2022 £8.99 (on offer) Portugal’s fernao pires, Greece’s Tea People orange blossom tea in a large,
Waitrose, 13.5%. An off- moschofilero and the many For the drink heatproof bowl. Set the bowl over
dry Kiwi that would work iterations of muscat and moscatel. 30ml orange the simmering water, making sure
with chicken noodle salad It’s also Tryanuary, after all. blossom-infused the base doesn’t touch it, and
And just for you dry Janners out gin (see above leave to warm gently for about 10
and method)
Seifried Gewürztraminer there, I know I’ve recommended it 30ml Campari minutes. Pass the hot gin into a jug
2021 £12.99 Waitrose, before, but it’s worth mentioning 15ml sweet red through a sieve, leave to cool to
12.5%. A stunning, off-dry again: I really like Saicho’s sparkling vermouth – we room temperature, then decant into
use Martini Riserva
gewürz. Try with Sichuan jasmine tea. At £17.99 a bottle, it is Speciale Rubino
a jar or bottle and seal.
food or Thai red curry more expensive than I feel it should 15ml good balsamic To make the drink, fill a tumbler
be – and more than any of the wines
b vinegar – we use with ice, pour in the gin, Campari,
Adega de Pegões in my pick today – but it would be Aceto Balsamico di vermouth and balsamic vinegar, and
Modena Ponti
‘Selected Harvest’ White great for a Chinese New Year dim 1 orange slice, to stir to combine and dilute slightly.
2021 £9.99 Majestic, 13%. sum feast. As would, of course, garnish Garnish and serve.
Aromatic Portuguese jasmine or chrysanthemum tea, 1 sprig fresh thyme, Alessandro Tobaldi, bar manager,
to garnish
white to sip with sushi albeit rather more cheaply. Big Mamma Group UK

Feast 15
16 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
 Benjamina Ebuehi Vegan orange
friands
The sweet spot

Prep 20 min Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/

Cook 25 min gas 6. Brush the insides of a cupcake
Makes 6 or friand tray with melted butter,
Cost About £1 then dust lightly with flour.
a head In a bowl, mix the flour, almonds,
baking powder, icing sugar and salt.
70g vegan butter,
melted, plus extra In another bowl, whip the
It’s taken me a while to come round for greasing
40g plain flour, plus
aquafaba by hand for two to
three minutes, until it’s frothy.
to aquafaba, the liquid leftover in a tin extra for dusting
90g ground almonds
Add this to the dry ingredients
of chickpeas, as an egg replacement. I was ½ tsp baking powder and mix to combine. Add the
100g icing sugar orange zest and the 70g melted
convinced that everything I made with it A pinch of salt butter, and stir until smooth.
Zest of 1 orange
would have the faint taste of pulses, but About 100ml Pour the batter into the prepared
aquafaba, drained moulds and top each one with
I was wrong. Now I appreciate how useful from 1 x 400g can a scattering of flaked almonds.
chickpeas
an ingredient it can be when baking for A handful of flaked
Bake for 20–25 minutes, turning
the tray once about halfway
those who don’t eat eggs. Here, the almonds
through, until the cakes are lightly
aquafaba gets whipped until frothy and For the syrup
Zest and juice of
browned and springy to touch.
While the friands are baking,
is then mixed into an almondy batter, 1 orange
2 ½ tbsp caster make the syrup. Use a potato
producing sweet little cakes with a chewy sugar peeler to pare long strips of zest
1 tsp orange
off the orange, then slice them up
exterior and soft, syrup-laden insides. blossom water
thinly and put in a pan with the
(optional)
sugar, the juice from the orange
and the orange blossom water, if
using. Bring to a boil, then turn
down the heat and simmer for
PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: BENJAMINA EBUEHI.

a few
fe minutes, until the mix is
PROP STYLING: ANNA WILKINS. FOOD ASSISTANT: JULIA ADEN. INSET: GETTY IMAGES

syrupy and the zest has softened.

syr
Spoon
S some syrup on to the
baked friands while they are
ba
still warm, then leave to cool
st
completely before serving.
co

Feast 17
Felicity Cloake
Masterclass:
fishcakes
Prep 25 min 1 Prepare the 2 Boil and crush
Cook 25 min potatoes the spuds
Serves 2 Peel the Put the potatoes
Cost About £1.50 potatoes, then in a large pan
a head cut them into with a generous
evenly sized shake of salt and
400g floury
potatoes (eg, maris chunks. Floury cover with cold
Fishcakes have fallen off the menu piper)
Salt
potatoes are water. Bring to
best here, a boil, then turn
in recent years, which is a shame, 250g fish (see step 3)
1 tbsp chopped
because waxy down the heat
because they’re a delicious way to make chives new potatoes and simmer
1 tbsp capers (see will struggle to until tender, but
what is, rightly, a pricey ingredient go a lot step 7) hold together. not mushy.
2 anchovy fillets
further. Based on one of the greatest of in oil, drained and Sweet potato Drain, return
finely chopped will also work, briefly to the hot
culinary love stories, fish and potatoes, 1 egg, beaten either alone or pan to dry off,
40g flour, for
they’re almost infinitely adaptable to suit coating
in combination then roughly
with the white crush, so they’re
both your audience and what you have 100g dried
breadcrumbs variety, and a mixture of
available, so feel free to p y around.
play A generous knob
of butter
you could also mash and
vegetab oil
1 tbsp vegetable add about larger lumps.
75g broccoli,
broken into
small florets,
peas or finely
diced carrot to
the potato pot
towards the end
of cooking.

1 Peel and boil the

potatoes until
tender, then roughly
crush, but no so
much as to turn
them into mash

5 Prep your fish

of choice – just
about any will work
here – then poach
in water until just
beginning to flake 6 Prep the extra
flavourings -
capers, anchovies,
chives, spring onions
and mustard seeds
all work well

18 Feast
F
Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023
3 Choose 4 Or use frozen 5 Poach any 6 Flake the fish 7 Mix in other 8 Flour, crumb 9 Fry until
your fish or tinned uncooked fish Drain the fish flavourings, and chill golden
You can use just Defrost frozen Put any fresh or thoroughly, then shape Put the Put the butter
about any fish fish or seafood defrosted fish in remove the skin, Stir in the remaining egg and oil in a
you like here, before use, and a pan of water, if necessary chives, capers in a shallow frying pan on
though I think drain anything bring up to a (I give it to the and anchovies bowl, and tip a medium-high
a mixture is tinned. If it’s in simmer, then dog), and leave (or seasoning the flour and heat and, once
nicest – water, get rid of turn the heat to cool. Break of your choice, breadcrumbs it’s hot and
something that (or add it to right down and into large flakes such as chopped on to separate the foam has
smoked, pet food, as cook gently for and add to the dill pickles and saucers. Dip subsided, lay in
something white long as it isn’t three to five potatoes. If spring onions, each fishcake in the fishcakes,

PHOTOGRAPHS: ROBERT BILLINGTON/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: LOÏC PARISOT

and something brined), but if minutes, using raw or chopped the flour, then in batches if the
oily, say. Fish it’s in oil, you depending on prawns, shell green chilli, the beaten egg pan is small,
pie mix will also might like to the size of the and briefly fry grated ginger and finally the and cook for
do, while mix some of it fillets, until the them in a little and mustard breadcrumbs, five minutes,
fishmongers are into the cakes to skin, if any, oil until just seeds). Season until thoroughly until golden and
often delighted flavour them pulls off easily pink, before lightly, and mix coated. Chill for well crusted
to get rid of later, so set it and the flesh is adding. And if gently, adding at least half an underneath.
scraps for a aside for now. just beginning you’re using enough beaten hour (and up Carefully flip
knock-down to break into tinned or other egg just to bring to 24 hours), to over, repeat
price. Or go flakes (you’ll ready-cooked it all together. firm up. on the other
down the be cooking it fish or seafood, Use your hands side, then eat
seafood route again later). add it now. to form the mix immediately.
– crab works into four large The Guardian
really well; big cakes or six aims to publish
prawns should smaller ones. recipes for
be chopped. fish rated as
sustainable
by the Marine
Conservation
Society’s Good
7 Mix the fish
and flavourings
into the spuds with
Fish Guide.

enough beaten egg

to bind everything,
then season well

8 Shape the mix

into patties. Put
the flour, egg and
breadcrumbs on
three plates, then
coat the cakes in each
9 Melt butter and
oil in a pan, fry
the fishcakes (in
batches, if need be),
until golden on both
sides, then serve

Feast 19
 Kitchen aide
How to get the best from
a pressure cooker
What are the advantages of
pressure cookers?
“You’ll soon get to a point where
you can make educated guesses, Waste not ...
Charlie, Lincoln
What really sets pressure cookers
though.” For example, rice, pasta
and pulses, which are cooked by
Spent coffee
apart from other bits of kitchen kit,
notes food writer Catherine Phipps,
absorption, are a game of ratios:
Phipps uses 2:5 rice:liquid for
Tom H
T Hunt
is their versatility: “I don’t see them risotto, while basmati requires “No problem,” Mabel said as she
as a gadget, but a saucepan with equal parts rice and water. Brothy handed me a huge bag of used
a specially adapted lid,” says the chickpeas, meanwhile, are a coffee grounds. “Last week, someone
author of Modern Pressure Cooking. favourite of Arturi’s: “Soak dried asked me for some to make a plant-
“You can use them for everything chickpeas in cold water for 12 hours, based leather.” I walked out grinning
you would a normal saucepan, and then drain and transfer to the from ear to ear, happy to connect
much more besides, plus you cut pressure cooker with fresh water with a local barista and to have just
70-75% of the cooking time.” Stefano until barely submerged.” Add salt, scored a kilo of Browns of Brockley’s
Arturi, of the Italian Home Cooking olive oil and aromatics (garlic, bay, finest used coffee grounds.
blog, adds: “I can make dishes that rosemary and/or a parmesan rind), Across the world, almost 10bn
would otherwise take hours [stews, then cook for 10 minutes: “Wait for kilos of coffee beans are consumed
chickpeas] in a fraction of the time, the pressure to drop naturally, then each year, and they are grown on 10m
and with no loss of flavour – in taste.” If the chickpeas aren’t quite hectares across the so-called bean
fact, pressure cooking intensifies soft, cook for a few more minutes belt, an area roughly 25 degrees on
how things taste.” And all for a more, then set aside, covered, for either side of the equator. Imagine
fraction of the cost, too: “It’s a great 30 minutes. “Spoon them and a little the impact if the waste from all that
ally in reducing water and energy of their golden broth over toast.” coffee were repurposed to make
consumption when you’re cooking Pressure cookers are also useful food stuffs, fertiliser, leathers,
things such as vegetables, because for getting veg on the table quickly. skin-care products and even biofuel.
you need very little of either.” In the case of sprout tops, kale and
Which pressure cooker you go broccoli, say, Phipps puts “a slick of Coffee kombucha
for, however, depends on how water in a pressure cooker”, adds Measure two litres of boiling water
you cook, how many you’re feeding just-washed greens, brings up to into a heatproof glass or ceramic
and how much room you have. pressure, then switches it off. jug, stir in 130g unrefined sugar and
“If you’ve got very little counter “Fast release and it’s done, often in 700g used coffee grounds, then leave
space, get one you can leave on the seconds.” There’s no compromise on to infuse overnight. The next day,
hob,” Phipps advises. “You can then taste, either: “I often cook broccoli at strain through a non-metallic sieve
use it as a saucepan, too.” Electric demos and people tell me, ‘I’ve never into a fermentation jar, add 300ml
pressure cookers, meanwhile, had such broccoli-tasting broccoli’,” kombucha (homemade or shop-
might suit those who “have lots of she says. “Pressure cookers are just bought) and gently float a kombucha
worktop space, are used to slow- so good at preserving flavour.” scoby on top. Cover the jar with a
Printed at Walstead Group, Elvington, York YO41 4AU

or multi-cookers and like that way Anna Berrill clean tea towel, secure it in place
of cooking”; they also come with Got a culinary dilemma? with a rubber band, then store in
a multitude of accessories, such as Email feast@theguardian.com a warm (roughly 20C) spot out of
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN LEWIS; GETTY IMAGES

air-fryer lids and yoghurt makers. direct sunlight. After a few days,
In terms of size, bigger is often start tasting the kombucha –
better, Phipps says, because it gives depending on the ambient
you more options; she has cooked temperature, it will take between
as much as 500g dried beans in her three and 14 days to ferment. When
four-and-a-half-litre pressure cooker you are happy with the flavour,
and as little as 50g rice. strain into sterilised bottles, and
You would also be wise to follow keep back 300ml to kick off the next
recipes designed specifically for batch. Store in the fridge or leave to
pressure cookers, “because it isn’t ferment a second time, which will
obviously intuitive”, Phipps says. carbonate the drink.

20 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023

 Cookery writer of the year

Rachel Roddy
Tales from an
Italian kitchen
Breakfast biscuits grandmother would buy a bag of six
The Passi bakery in Rome is long biscotti all’uovo, as well as eggs
and quite narrow, with terrazzo tiles themselves. Their nature and Italian
and an L-shaped, glass-fronted habits mean they are also known
counter. Even on the coldest day, it as biscotti da inzuppare, biscuits for
is warm, and when it rains, they dipping, or breakfast biscuits.
strew sawdust on the floor to prevent In a large bowl, lightly beat two
slipping. The bread is stacked on eggs, then add 50ml whole milk,
shelves and in crate-like sections 50ml vegetable oil, the grated zest
that line the walls. The counter is of a large orange and 100g caster or
home to everything else pulled from golden caster sugar. Once everything
the ovens in the back: a few is well mixed, add 300g plain flour,
typically Roman hot dishes, lengths a teaspoon each of baking powder
of pizza and focacce, tarts, cakes, and bicarbonate of soda, and a
and buns and biscotti. Hundreds pinch of salt. Mix first with a fork
of biscotti. and then your hands, until you have
The word biscotto, like biscuit, is a consistent and tacky dough (if it
a generic word with a Latin sticks to your hands, add a little
root, panis biscoctus, which refers to more flour). Set the oven to 180C
bread (panis) cooked (coctus) twice (160C fan)/gas 4, line a baking tray
(bis) to make it durable. It is a with greaseproof paper and put
durable “rusk” that requires dipping some sugar on a plate. You now
in liquid to make it edible. Over the have a choice: for larger biscuits,
centuries, this rusk evolved and break off lumps of 70g, for smaller
sweetened into hundreds of ones 40g lumps (it might be an idea
different forms, some of them to weigh the first few, to set an
twice-cooked, others not, many example). Roll each lump into a ball,
with new names, others then roll the ball into a log and roll
simply biscotti al latte (milk that in the sugar. Arrange the logs,
biscuits), biscotti savoiardi (sponge well spaced out, on the lined tray,
fingers), biscotti regina (small logs then flatten them slightly, so they
covered with sesame seeds). Then look like mini surfboards. Dust with
there are stout oval biscotti di icing sugar, then bake for 20
Prato from Prato in Tuscany, which minutes, until they are puffed up
are traditionally dipped in sweet and light gold in colour. Remove
wine, and are also known and lift on to a drying rack to cool.
as cantucci, though they have cat’s tongues, hazelnut-and- Ready, steady, dip: A few years ago, I bought a bag
travelled the world as honey tozzetti, biscotti with Rachel Roddy’s of tozzetti with honey that were as
breakfast biscuits
simply biscotti. chocolate drops, sultanas or a hard as a mountain face and
PHOTOGRAPH: RACHEL RODDY/THE GUARDIAN

Back at Panificio Passi, a rectangle fingerprint of apricot jam and floury impossible to eat without dunking
of pizza with cheese and mushrooms biscuits half-dipped in chocolate in milk or, better still, wine. This is
is steaming the glass just in front of called fiammette (little flames). rare, though. Most of the time,
me. A few metres away, a little girl The biggest on display dipping or dunking is a choice rather
is breathing on her section of are biscotti al latte, milk biscuits, than a necessity. And that is
counter, then dragging her index which look and taste like a baby certainly the case with these
finger through the condensation. rusk crossed with plain cake and a milk-egg-dipping-breakfast biscuits
The counter is long and the metal sponge finger. In Sicily, biscotti inspired by those in the L-shaped
trays of biscuits are well spaced. all’uovo, or egg biscuits, are similar: counter at Passi. And which, of
There are ring biscuits made with Vincenzo remembers the cry of the course, can be eaten any time you
wine, waffle-like pizzelle, pale and egg man as he arrived at the end of want (I like mine at 11am or 4pm
soft almond balls, wholemeal plaits, the street, and how occasionally his with a cup of tea).

Feast 21
Grace Dent
‘This is a gamechanger
for vegan restaurants’

PHOTOGRAPHS: OLA O SMIT/THE GUARDIAN

Jam Delish, a glitzy independent my workings: Jamaica has the world’s Jam Delish
down an Islington back street, is largest Rastafarian community; 1 Tolpuddle Street,
a noteworthy new opening for Rastafarians follow a meat-free diet; London N1,
several reasons. First, it’s not a vast, and Britain is home to many vegans, jamdelish.co.uk.
laughably expensive, 200-seater, Jamaicans and Jamaican food-lovers, Open Tues-Fri
5-10.30pm, Sat
all-day, mock-Mediterranean bistro, not to mention Rastafarians. So you’d noon-10.30pm, Sun
which is what just about every think that, somewhere along the way, 1-7pm. From about
investor is backing these days, plant-based brown stew “fish” or £40 a head à la
knowing that a fool and his £28 for macaroni “cheese” with fake bacon carte (three-course
set menu £34), plus
substandard, citrus-doused carpaccio might have become mainstream. drinks and service
are easily parted. Second, it is a Instead, Jordan Johnson, Jam
Jamaican vegan restaurant that Delish’s co-founder, found it tough to
serves fake goat curry (pictured right, find decent versions of his favourite
top) and saltfish that is certainly not Jamaican food, so began during
fish. This is unusual. lockdown as a dark delivery kitchen
Sure, Jamaican vegan food should in Wimbledon, before appearances
probably be more commonplace, if as a market stall and a residency in
you think about it logically. I’ll show Soho’s The Sun & 13 Cantons, where

22 Feast The Guardian Saturday 14 January 2023

 Restaurant writer of the year

the likes of Raheem Sterling, Lily

James and the stars of the Black
Panther movie franchise reportedly
enjoyed the Jam Delish experience.
Now, it has a permanent home
and is fronted by Jamie Oliver’s
Fifteen alumnus Nathan Collymore.
And the new place is the opposite of
po-faced. It plays loud Jocelyn
Brown, D Train and Nights Over
Egypt by the Jones Girls. There’s a
sophisticated cocktail menu serving
Antiguan zombies and amaretto
sours, as well as a “shooter” section
including Jägerbombs and slippery
nipples (AKA sambuca and Baileys)
that I have not seen since a 1992 girls’
holiday to Tenerife. They also sell
Boost Energy, and one entire side of lentils, oyster mushrooms and sticky grilled confit yam and scotch
the restaurant is a “living greenery” plantains the stars of the show. At bonnet sauce made with sweetened
wall made of artificial foliage. If all Jam Delish, Collymore rather coconut. Possibly my favourite dish,
that makes Jam Delish sound noisy, humiliates the likes of Mildred’s and however, is the Caribbean fish tacos
young and odd, well, it is a bit, but on Lewis Hamilton’s Neat Burger by (left, below), which are delightful,
a miserable Tuesday night in January, serving up complex, visually lovely, soft-shell tortillas with lemon
it was hectic, while many other yet hearty plates of “oxtail” stew pepper-glazed tofu “codfish”,
places nearby had a graveyard feel. brimming with jackfruit, butter pineapple and mango.
And, frankly, Collymore is a beans, wild mushrooms, plantain, Haters of fake meat products such
vibrant talent and a gamechanger for sweet potato and herb cassava Instafeed as seitan, tofu, TVP and the rest will
the vegan cooking scene. Good dumplings. Or a “nibble” of grilled have issues with Jam Delish, because
plant-based dining is about textures, roti with three generous dishes of they feature throughout the menu,
contrasts, balance, plating and, above jerk baba ghanoush, plantain but mainly to add realism rather than
all, making natural items such as hummus and a wondrous burnt flavour. The real pleasure is in the
spring onion and chilli butter. glossy sauces, the heat and the
The cooking makes you keep crunch. It’s in the expert use of
asking: “But how? How is this garlic, thyme, pomegranate and
happening without butter, cream, The 750g marrons peanut. And in the bizarrely meaty
glacés panettone
stock or, well, meat?” Because vegan that lasted
buttermilk oyster mushrooms, deep-
food is so often dreary. It can be so approximately 24 fried and served with sweet plantain
dry, it would choke a dromedary, or, hours in my house ketchup and green avocado puree.
worse still, it can look delicious, yet And lest you think pudding is just
taste like polystyrene. I have eaten a drab vegan sorbet, no, there’s also a
enough of this well-meaning but sumptuous ice-cream sandwich
ultimately awful nonsense in my made with rich rum cake, chocolate
long, windy lifetime to know genius banana ice-cream, chocolate soil and
when I see it, and Jam Delish’s fried a potent Guinness punch sauce. Jam
“chicken” with ackee and green Delish won’t be to everyone’s taste,
lentils is just that, all sitting around The delicious, low- but if it’s to yours and you want the
carb cauliflower
a griddled slice of soft Caribbean ‘rice’ pudding I’m meat-free versions of Montego Bay’s
squash, with a jug of dark, intense eating to make up finest, this is hearty, accomplished
and drinkable gravy alongside. for the panettone and memorable cooking. Save me
Callaloo and codfish comes with @gracedent a spot by the plastic aspidistras.

Feast 23
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