Fuelless Engine 50 HP-Free Energy

Creative
#362
SCIENCE PART ONE
& Research Copyright 2002 - 2005
PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA
es
ellles
The Fuell esss
ENGINE PART 1
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C Copyright 2005
ENC
Thank you for buying these plans, we hope you I Copyright 2005 Creative Science
SC
enjoy them. E
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The Fuelless Engine is our trade mark and is a spin C RE
off of Nikola Tesla technology as well as our own.
This motor is like no other electric motor in the world.
You can run this motor on 300 to 2,000 volts dc,
(using a special coil design as well as the designs
included in these plans, see our high HP plans as well,
they have even more info that you may need. )
Please Keep all of this information to yourself!
When Free Energy Electric Motors are allowed

to be manufactured here in the USA Then we maybe
able to offer more information, more designs etc..
Our Smallest Low hp motor, uses our spiral coil technology,
Even more than what we are offering here.... Keep These motors or engines are very compact and high efficient.
your eyes and ears open to world wide news as well
as to our websites. This device does produce free
energy and can be used to run a dc or ac low rpm Copyright 2005 Creative Science
generator. We suggest you build and use our Sp500
low rpm generator. $70 for the plans.
You can make the outer case out of just about

anything you want, just keep to the basic design.
Keep in mind these motors were designed as simple
homemade devices. We have tried our best to keep
it as simple as possible for everyone. The outer
motor casing can be a square wooden box or large
steel or aluminum cylinder piping, or as you see in
the photo to the right 2 round motor ends with long
bolts. The higher the horsepower the more sturdy the
motor casing structure should be. Some of our
customers have used 14” blue/green sewer piping.
Many people do not know this but an Engine can also be Our RC Nano Flux High Hp Fuelless Engine #362-RC
called a motor and an electric motor can also be called an For High Voltage Power Supply see page 32
engine. These terms have been debated since the early
1900’s and to this date.
COVER
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Copyright 2002 - 2005 Creative Science & Research
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Knowledge is Power!
Introduction
What is Free Energy?
There are many examples of free energy, one example is the sun. The
sun gives off free energy and we collect that energy in the form of heat
and electricity everyday. We use solar cell technology to collect the
suns electrical energy and turn it into usable electricity. But is the sun
perpetual? No, but some people when they think of free energy they
tend to think of perpetual motion, but they are not always the same.
When the DC electric motor was invented it was found that it gave off Free Energy
free energy in the form of back emf. This new type of free energy Solar Panel
reversed the incoming polarity of the motors copper coils ( incoming dc
pulses ), causing the soft iron cores ( electro magnets ) of the top of
the motor coils to change poles, from north to south. This changing of Diodes
polarity and poles caused by the free energy from the back emf,
caused the motors to work against themselves and this is still going on
in many DC motors that are manufactured to this day. So now we see
that all common DC electric motors used today produce free energy in
the from of back emf and is not being used or designed in a way to +
take full advantage of this free energy output in which earlier design
engineers seen as a disadvantage rather than a high efficiency DC Motor
solution.
What is back emf? Back emf is free energy caused by a collapsing

magnetic field generated in a coil of copper coated wire wrapped
around a soft iron core. For example if you take a common isolation
transformer or a High Voltage Microwave oven transformer and pulse it
with 12 to 24 vdc very quickly into it’s primary, the transformer will
produce free energy in the form of back emf from the primary and the
secondary coils. Both primary and secondary coils now become AC
because of the free electrical energy produced by the back emf. As an
example to help simplify it a bit more lets do a test. For this test you
will need a DC volt meter, a one way diode and a electrolytic capacitor
rated at 50 v x 4700 uf ( you can buy these on line at any electronics
HV MicrowaveTransformer
supply company or Radio Shack store ). Now connect the diode to the
+ positive end of the capacitor, if the diode is pointing in the correct
position you can connect a small 9 volt battery and it will be able to
Schematic
charge the capacitor, if it does not then the diode is pointing the wrong
Fig 1
Primary Secondary
+ +
SW Electrolytic Transformer
12 vdc battery Capacitor
Diode +
one way DC Volt Meter
Introduction 1
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If you are using an isolation transformer it really does not matter

which side you use as the primary. Now connect your DC volt
meter to the capacitor, + to + and negative to negative. Now
connect the negative black wire lead to the negative of the
battery and to the positive lead wire of the capacitor before the
diode, after the diode would be a direct connection to the plus
side of the cap, you do not want to do that, because when the +
polarity reverses the diode will direct it to the positive side of the
Wall Transformer
cap. Now connect the other end of the black negative wire to the
negative terminal of the 12 vdc or 24 dc battery. Now connect Wall transformers can be taken apart and the
transformers used as electromagnets or for the test
the positive red wire to the primary leads of the transformer and described in introduction page 1. Old wall transformers
are also a good source for copper coated wire.
to an ( SW ) on and off switch as shown in Figure 1. Now tape a
penny to the top of the soft iron core of the transformer and then
tape a 4” long x 1/8” thick x 1” wide piece of steel on top of the
penny. When DC voltage is applied to the primary coil the metal
will be pulled down to the soft iron core or to the top of the HV
Transformer indicating a strong magnetic flux.
To operate: Turn the ( SW ) switch on for 3 seconds, while the

SW is on, notice your volt meter is at zero, showing no energy
coming into the capacitor. ( You will notice that the steel bar you
taped on top of the penny is now attracted to the transformer).
So in just 3 seconds you have made a powerful electromagnet
from the center iron core of the transformer, north is on top and
south is on bottom or depending on which side of the coil you
place the + side of the battery on. Amperage Meter
Now after 3 seconds turn off the 24 vdc power, the positive flow
of electrons will now reverse because the electromagnet was
turned off. this is similar as the effects of a permanent magnet
generator.. When the magnet passes into the coil area and to it’s
center a voltage is produced in the wire, when the magnet is
then moved out from the center of the coil and leaves the coil
area this reverses the polarity and produces another flow of
electrical energy ( back emf ) the same amount of energy as
before. You will notice the volt meter needle move when you
turn off the power. This is free energy from a collapsing
magnetic field. Capacitors also store and collect free energy
between it’s plates in the form of r...? energy. Electrons are then
stored and collected on the metal plates. RPM Meter ( laser type )
You can buy at
http://www.allelectronics.com
An example of a
HV Electrolytic
Capacitor, good for HV power supplies. Introduction 2
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Question: What is a Capacitor?

Capacitor’s come in all shapes and sizes, for example, 2 pieces of
aluminum or copper sheeting spaced 1/16” apart is considered a
Capacitor. Both sheets of metal must be the same size. A wire lead
is connected to each as shown in Figure 2. A DC voltage is then
applied to the air capacitor and energy is stored in between the
metal plates. Much like a battery but is different in that the electrical
energy can be discharged all at once. This is why it is dangerous to
handle a capacitor that is charged without thick rubber gloves, if the
charge is of a high voltage and of a high micro farad rating (
amperage ) the discharge can kill you. The Fuelless Engine uses DC/ac Volt Meter
capacitance to it’s advantage that is why this motor works so well.
It will be to your advantage to build your own homemade HV
Capacitor(s). See our plans # HVC1 for only $9.95
There are 2 types of Capacitors, The dry type and the wet type.
An electrolytic capacitor is a wet type and is good for many things
such as HV step up power supplies. Electrolytic Photo caps are
the best, they are very high efficient. An electrolytic type capacitor
will always have a + plus side and a negative side marked on them.
A dry type or AC oil filled type capacitor is not electrolytic, AC or DC
can be applied to them. You can place the + positive charge lead A HV Electrolytic Capacitor
on either side of the capacitor and it will not harm the capacitor. 450 vdc x 350 uf
WARNING! Always wear rubber gloves, long sleeve jacket and

rubber shoes when working with HV charged capacitors. Always
discharge them when you are done and keep them away from
children and adults who are not educated in HV capacitors. It is
always best to put up High Voltage signs in your lab. You can buy
these signs on the internet at:
http://www.speedysigns.com/signs/danger_signs.asp or at most
hardware stores. ( Our motors use both types....)
The bigger the plates the more amperage can be stored, or the more plates you add and stack one
on top of the other the more amperage will be stored, this increases the ( uf ) micro farads. The air
space in figure 2 can be considered the die electric, as it is called. You can build a large HV capacitor
using aluminum or copper sheeting and 3mil mylar as the die electric. Again see our HVC1 HV
Capacitor plans for $9.95 USD.
Figure 2
- 24 vdc or higher HV Oil filled Capacitors
- Electrons stored here
( For line poles etc..)
1/16” air space R....energy stored here......
+ Electrons stored here

+ 24 vdc or higher
Introduction 3
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Free Energy & High Efficiency

Free energy and high efficiency work hand in hand, you can not
have one with out the other. Nikola Tesla discovered what he called
radiant energy in the early 1900’s, It seems electrons can not work
without this so called radiant energy. radiant energy and electrons
work together as one, but are also separate from each other. It is
my theory that radiant energy travels faster than electrons and as it N i k o l a Te s l a
travels pulls the electrons with it. It seems the electrons are always Inventor of AC
following behind the ( so called ) radiant energy. When this energy and many high
is charged into a high voltage capacitor the electrons collect Voltage products
themselves on the 2 metal plates. Electromagnetic coils store such as ac motors
energy just like a capacitor. If the copper or aluminum wire is and generators as
wound side by side as perfect as one can get to form a coil, then well as HV Tesla
the efficiency of that coil ( or motor ) will go way up storing and Coils. Wireless
Electricity etc...
releasing free energy and reusing it within itself. This is why we like
to use spiral electro magnetic air coils for our motors.
Brush Commutator Sw’s
Photo 1 is just an example of one of our

many experiments in testing and building
a small free energy low hp motor.
Here you see us using a 2 stack air core
spiral coil. #37 copper wire test model.
Notice that the spiral coil is at a great
distance from the neodymium magnet.
Even at this distance the motor ran very
well. Of course the closer the magnet is to
the electromagnetic spiral coil the higher
the efficiency and the rpms as well as
horse Power.
Spiral Coil
Photo 1 of small test model of a Fuelless Engine
or you can also call it a motor as well as an engine.
+ 300 vdc input pulses at about .05 milliamps.
No spaces between wires
Our special spiral coils can be any shape or size.
Introduction 4
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Copper Coated Wire and High Capacitance!

Again when copper coated wire is wound in a perfect side by side method the coil will produce a
very high capacitance much like a capacitor. The more number of winds the higher the
capacitance, this is what every motor design engineer longs for. Let me illustrate this in Figure 3
below. If we take 2000 feet of #25 AWG copper coated wire and double it back by 1000 feet,
keeping it perfectly parallel with each other you will get a high capacitance just like a capacitor.
Winding the same 2000 feet of wire around an air core bobbin will produce far more capacitance if
each wind is perfectly wound side by side, right to left. You can get an even higher capacitance
than that if you wind your coils into spirals and stack them. WARNING! Please notice, this is our
invention and is not for sell nor can it be manufactured anywhere in the world. But we do give you
permission to test and build one for yourself. You can not copy or sell or give away our information in
anyway shape or form without our permission.
Figure 3
+ 1000 feet #25 AWG wire
1000 feet
No air space
1000 + 1000 = 2000 ft total
A common DC motor vs our Fuelless Engine: A common DC motor is designed to be an amperage hog! ..
It uses large gauge wire ( fat wire ) with very few turns for it’s motor coils. The coils are then of a low resistance. Doing it
this way is a waste of energy and money! The windings are also hand wound on most of these motors and are not
perfectly wound side by side as they are in transformers. By using more copper wire or more winds and using smaller
gauge wire ( thinner wire ) the efficiency of the motor goes way up. Also notice figure 4, the copper wire is wound around
a movable rotor of soft iron, this is not an efficient way of doing it. It is best to allow the magnet to move inside of the
copper coil. As we do with our Fuelless Engine motor. This creates a powerful generator and motor. As the DC input
voltage is passing through the coils to turn the motor the motor’s rotor magnet acts as a generator causing the flight
patterns of the electron /atoms to collide creating more energy! This is why you can see more energy output than input.
For example: we can input 1200 vdc into our motor coils and get a demonstration of about 10,000 volts back out at the
commutator brushes in the form of arcs, sparks and plasma balls. If we ever learn how to harness that energy the motor
will produce an even larger display of high efficiency! The more winds of copper coated wire, the higher the efficiency!
Soft Iron Rotor Core sheets glued together

( moves = rotor )
A Common DC Motor Permanent

What we like to call an amperage hog!
N S M a g n e t s
Ceramic type
Figure 4 ( Does not move )
= stator
Copper coated wire coils

are hand wound, not efficient Brush Commutator
at all. or ( SW ) Switch.
Both copper coils are
connected to both plates.
For more information see this web site:

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Http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/magnetic/mothow.html Introduction 5
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Basic Motor timing Operation ( ½ cycle )

Example of one half cycle. 12:00 Position
Basic motor operation: 1:00

N
Step 1
Notice that we are not using the same size E
magnets ( Disk type ) in this example, but ONSCIENC Strong Cut away
E S Attraction!
applies to both. IV SIDE VIEW
EAT North to South
R S & S Repels
C S
When the north pole N of the rotor
AIR
magnet is pointing toward the 1:00 CORE
position the brushes on the commutator HV DC
contact the copper acting as a buss bar #27 Copper wire N

switch. High Voltage DC is then applied 6:00 +
to the coil which creates a powerful
Step 2
magnetic field ( using only milliamps ) A
ON 3:00
N
S
strong south magnetic pole is created
within the spiral coils which in turn pulls S
the north pole of the rotor magnet AIR
downward toward the coils, and at the CORE
same time is repelling the south pole of

N
the rotor magnet pushing it upward. As +
the magnet turns within the coil it
creates a very high voltage generator S
Step 3 CE
effect into the back emf of the motor coil IE
N
SC
This is FREE ENERGY! OFF Inertia IV
E
EAT
C R
When the north pole of the magnet N
reaches the 6:00 position the brush
commutator switch turns off power to the N
coil and inertia takes over until the north AIR
CORE
pole reaches the 1:00 position again,
S HV DC
then the entire process starts all over

again. This is all done very quickly. Only
Polarity of coil reverses when power is turned off. +
one set of brushes need to be used if
Using 2 coils for more HP
using only one coil as in the drawings.
A 2nd coil can be used which would be S
1:00
placed in the top position and therefore 4

N
sets of brushes would be needed. Using N
a 2nd coil would pull the North pole
upward when it is in the 7:00 position S S
creating more motor torque and
horsepower! Voltage is greatly multiplied N
when the Free Energy generator effect
takes place. ( 1000 vdc in x 10,000 vdc
output ). Notice Step 3, Magnetic Poles of
coil change when power is turned off, coil Introduction 6
then repels North magnet.
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

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Motor Commutator Operation
We pulse the negative of the HV DC
Fig 1 ON 1:00
To HV DC
Power Supply
ON
Copper or brass
springs
To Coil Commutator
N
Black tape
Thick
Commutator SW
Black Tape
Copper pipe Brushs Qty 2 2nd not seen
it is behind the 1st one.
FRONT VIEW
Copper pipe = buss bar
The negative of the HV dc coming from the

S Insulation or epoxy
high voltage multiplier is connected to the

left brush and the right brush is connected to SIDE VIEW
the coil side that makes the south pole. The
positive is connected to the other side of the 6:00
coil.
Thick insulation must be used, such as thick We pulse the negative of the HV DC
black tape or the back emf sparks will be so
great it will destroy any thin insulation used. Fig 2 OFF 1:00
The back emf voltage output is far greater
than the front emf voltage input! S
For the buss bar:
We use copper pipe, Copper pipe is great for
OFF
using as a buss bar for the commutator. We
then use black tape for insulation as seen in
Figure 1 & 2. The copper pipe commutator
is connected to the rotor shaft. You can also Commutator
use PVC pipe and glue and wrap copper foil Thick
around the pipe, you can use 3M spray Black Tape
adhesive to keep the copper foil in place.
Copper foil tape could also be used.
See internet for suppliers. N SIDE VIEW
E
E NC
For High Voltage PowerCI
Supply see page 32S 6:00
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WARNING! We are not responsible for anything in these plans, you build at your own risk! The
motor can run on high voltages by very low milliamps, but the power supply carries high voltage by
3 amps. if you make skin contact with the power supply death or injury could result! High Voltage
can kill! always wear rubber gloves, rubber shoes, rubber or plastic lab coat as well as eye protec-
tion. Label all high voltage parts and work area with High Voltage warning signs! Once your motor
is complete encase the motor in some kind of safe motor housing. Encase all electrical parts. Since
you are building a high voltage motor do a professional job! Do not be sloppy! WARNING! #2
Our motors can give off strong (RF) Radio frequencies if commutator spark is not controlled! The
larger the spark the more RF output. Keep all sensitive electronic equipment at least 20 feet or
more away from motor while running. ( If RF sparking occurs at brush commutator area ). Do not
use Digital voltage meters, use analog type,( needle type ). Electronic equipment might be
protected if you place them in thick steel boxes. While running tests.
N38 Neodymium
Magnets
All Aluminum
Structure
Spiral coil air core

motor coil. Each one
is connected in series
and stacked and glued
one on top of the other.
Copper/brass spring brushes

Homemade copper pipe
brush commutator
Almost looks like a stack
of pancakes doesn’t it? I
guess you could call this
a spiral coil pancake
motor.
This motor is very high

efficient if the commutator
sparks are controled.
360 vdc negative wire

from the 360 vdc power
_ + supply is connected to
the copper /brass spring
360 vdc brushes, power supply
connects to the left and
power supply the right brush wire goes
to the motor coil. The 360
vdc + goes to the other
+ side of the motor coil
terminal.
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#362 PART ONE
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WARNING!
You can not copy or duplicate any part of these plans in any
shape or form without the written permission from Creative
Science & Research. You can not resell copy or give away
these plans in any part. that includes photo’s etc.. As well as
our videos. Round type
Our New Spiral Coil Technology!

These plans are for your eyes only, ( excluding Family members
and those who may want to help you build this device. ) This device
uses a new discovery which we discovered more than 2 to 3 years ago.
It involves the use of spiral coil technology! Which we have Copyright
and Patent pending on. Many of you who have purchased our old #362
plans will notice that these plans are somewhat different, We no longer
use the Ed gray design but use a combination of new and old
technology.
Copyright 2005 - Fuelless Engine is a brandname of Creative Science & Research
Copyright 2005 Creative Science & Research Copyright 2005 Creative Science & Research
r
c Powe
1200 vd ply
Sup
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Small hp motor Our Large hp motor
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Creative Science & Research
Spiral Coil Technology
#27 copper coated wire. Very High Efficient

Layered like pancakes!
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#362 PART ONE
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Our Fuelless Engine technology is basically, high efficiency, free energy, electric generator and motor
technology, and uses new technology developed by David Waggoner and Rick H. of Creative Science &
Research. Our small spiral coil pancake motor is very high efficient. The rotor has 1 7/16” Diameter N38
Neodymium magnets connected to it’s shaft. HV DC current is applied to the motor coil and spins the rotor
very quickly. The commutator brush assembly acts as a switch to turn on the HV DC current at the proper
time, so the magnets will spin correctly. This engine / motor is also based on Nikola Tesla Technology. Free
Energy has been suppressed since the early 1900’s and is still being suppressed to this date. No one can
manufacture or sell any free energy device at any time! If you do decide to build this motor you must keep it
to yourself under lock and key! Take your time, study the plans well and take it one step at a time. Our
Video shows the motor running as well as many other features. If you build this motor right it will run on
small milliamp currents and demonstrate high rpms and hp. We have had a lot fun with this motor and I
know you will to. Free Energy is being produced in the form of back emf and is being reused by the motor
coil and by it’s capacitance, causing this motors efficiency to sky rocket!
Copper/brass spring brushes

Homemade copper pipe
brush commutator
RPMS ARE ADJUSTABLE

If you apply less voltage the
motor will run at a lower
rpm. if you apply more
voltage the motor runs at a
higher rpm. If apply more
pressure to the brushes the
motor will run faster.
_ +
360 vdc
120 VAC power supply
Clamp Amp Meter
This motor can run only on milliamp currents. Back emf is free energy created from a collapsing
magnetic field generated in a coil of copper coated wire wrapped around a soft iron core or air core.
Back emf can also be stored in batteries or large capacitors to be reused.
By using thousands of winds of copper coated wire in our coils we have been able to increase the
capacitance and efficiency of the motor, causing the motor to run on very little amperage. ( When the
commutator is controlled ). If we input 360 vdc in to this coil, the motor will clearly demonstrate an
output of about 3,600 vdc at the brush commutator SW. For research purposes we use 120 vac and
then step it up using our dc HV multiplier ( Diodes and Capacitors, see #378 plans for only $9.95 ) The
voltage is stepped up to 360 vdc. This motor can also be ran by using a 12 volt dc battery, 115 ac x
75 watt inverter, passed through our #378 HV dc multiplier. Most all free energy devices must have a
small input of energy to get the free energy reaction started!
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#362 PART ONE
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Parts & Supplies 1/4” or 1/8” PVC Plastic
1. PVC Sheeting - 1/4” x 12” x 12” ( White )

or ( 1/8” thick ). Supply Sources: Sign and or Screen
printing shops near you. Internet. Sign supplies,
screen printing supplies. This will be used as the
base for the pancake coils to sit on.
2. PVC PIPE 2 1/4” Diameter ( White ) Cut out 8” D

x 3/4” tall x about 3/16” thick Part #1
Part #2
3. QTY-1 6 to 10 lb spool of copper coated wire.

Or sometimes called magnetic wire. ( Double
coated ) size #27 AWG = .0149 inches Part #3
Supply Sources: Internet, ( use search engines )

MWS Wire Industires CA. 818-991-8553
C E
* This wire is for the motor spiral coil. Patent Pending EN
I
EIS Wire Company Louisville, KY SC 1/4” Plywood
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502-636-0384 A
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Alphacore.com or Reawire.com
Part #4
4. 1/4” plywood 12” x 12” ( Optional )
This will be cut to 8” Diameter and used
to help firmly support the 1/4” PVC 8” D Cut out 8” D
base while winding and applying spiral coil wire.
1/8” Aluminum sheet
5. QTY-1 Aluminum Sheet 1/8” thick 10” x 10” Part #5

This will be for the Aluminum donut motor base. You
can also cut this out using a drill press circle cutter from
sears.com 7 3 8 ” outer diameter x 3 5 8 ” inner diameter
5a. Qty - 1 Aluminum Donut motor base spacer

Cut to 6 ½” outer diameter x 3 5 8 ” inner Diameter. Cut out 7 3/8” D
Part #5a
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Parts & Supplies Thick paper or 3 mil plastic
6. Paper or 3 mil plastic

used as die electric separators, to separate each spiral coil
layer. The center circle must be cut just a hair bit bigger than
the PVC pipe ( see 2. ) each one of these will slip over the
PVC during assembly.
7. Soldering Gun and Solder Part #6

You will need a soldering gun to solder wires Cut out 8” D
Soldering guns and solder can be purchased at any electronic
supply company or www.radioshack.com/
If you do not know how to solder Radio shack sells a beginers

book of electronics. Soldering is fun and easy.
Part #7a
Or see internet keywords “ how to solder “
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
or http://www.bobvila.com/FixItClub/ Part #7b
8. 2-ton DEVON 2 part Epoxy

For gluing magnets to rotor shaft.
Suppliers: Hardware Stores Internet,
www.Texaswoodcarvers.com
8a. QTY -1 INDUSTRO WELD Part No. 8280

J-B WELD makes strong, permanent repairs when welding isn't
possible or practical. We use this to bond and make our 2-ton DEVON
homemade copper pipe brush commutator. ( SW ) 2 part Epoxy
Part #8
9. N38 Neodymium Magnets QTY- 4
1.46” outer diameter x .275” thick Http://www.devcon.com/
Suppliers: Internet, http://www.allelectronics.com/

or www.Kjmagnetics.com Part #9
9a. Qty -1 1/8” thick aluminum for brush assembly holder.

Cut to: 3 1/4” x 2 2/16” then bend at a 45 degree angle
N
on the shortest end.
N38 Neodymium Magnets
9b. PVC Plastic Insulators 1/8”
Qty-2 Front Bend here

Part # 9b Part #9a
Back Page 5
Use Nylon nuts and bolts to connect the brushes and PVC plastic
Part # 9b insulators to Part # 9a
#362 PART ONE
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Parts & Supplies

10. Drill press: a small bench type and a large floor type are best.
If all you have is a bench drill press that will work.
You will also need a drill press circle cutter. Drill Press
Supply #10
Floor type
Supplier: you can buy these online at www.Sears.com
11. Qty- 32 steel washers ( fender washers ) size: 5/32 x 7/8

item # 290002
Part #11
Supplier: Ace hardware at: www.acehardware.com
12. BRUSH ASSEMBLY Part #12a
Part #12b #10b
Copper or brass spring material: 0.009” thick

An old customer gave us some brass spring stripping
in rolls. We used this in small strips as contact brushes.
So I am not sure were you can find it. You maybe able to
use tempered carbon spring strips from smallparts.com Small Circle cutter for drill
I am not sure how well it would work but it should work press. Cutting PVC and plywood
just fine. Also see: www.ksmetals.com foil and brass shim #258
it is a bit thin, but you may be able to stack 2 of them together.
#10a Table Top Drill Press
Another option is to use spring motor carbon brushes with our
copper pipe commutator’s.
This is what we used on our smaller

and larger motors. I am not sure where
you can find them. But they must have
a spring to them. ( heat treated? )
It is very important to have good contact
or the motor will run rough or at half
speed.
13. PVC all purpose glue

For gluing the center PVC pipe to the PVC 8” diameter
Small Bench Drill press for
round sheet. #14 winding spiral coils by hand. You
will need to open the top and turn
14. 3M Spray adhesive pulley by hand. Or you can convert
To get surfaces of 8” pvc the drill press to a variable speed
and paper sticky so copper #13 drill press using a 90 vdc conveyer
belt motor and speed controller?
wire can stick to it when winding. From www.grainger.com
Page 6
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
Parts & Supplies

15. Qty-1 7/8” outer diameter x 1.25” length copper pipe. You
can use any size copper pipe close to that such as 3/4” or 1” pipe Part #15
would work fine. This is the brush commutator SW. It fits on
the 5/16” rotor shaft.
Copper Pipe
16. Qty -1 5/16” or a 9/32” outer diameter round rod for rotor
shaft. You can buy steel round rod at a hardware store or at your
local machine shop as well as www.smallparts.com best steel to
buy is the Ground tool steel SAE 0-1 5/16” x 14” long. Part #16
Small Parts.com call: 1-800-220-4242
there fax number is: 1-800 423-9009
17. Qty - 2 Needle bearings

5/16” bore x ½”diameter. These bearings are for the 5/16”
5/16” steel round rod
shaft to ride on. You simply drill a ½”or less hole in each of the Rotor Shaft
2 motor end blocks and then use a bench vise to press these
bearings into the holes. Part #17
18. Qty- 2 Shaft Collars ( Stainless Steel )

These collars are adjustable and help keep the rotor shaft in
Place during operation.
Suppliers: www.Grainger.com
www.lucasindustrial.com/products/shaft_collars_couplings/solid_collars/
19. Qty- 2 Shaft Block motor ends.

You can use aluminum or stainless Needle Bearings
steel DO NOT USE Steel. Steels
attract magnets and will slow down Part #18
motor = resistance.
½” Thick x 2” wide x 1 3/8” tall
Supplier: www.smallparts.com Shaft Block

Local Machine shop Part #19
5/16” Stainless Steel
http://www.allmetalsinc.com/
Shaft Collar
You can buy any length you want, then cut it to the size shown above.
You will need ½” x 2” aluminum bar or it maybe called aluminum
rectangle.
20. QTY- 6 Machine screws steel 6 - 32 x ½” Course thread 6 -32 tap
21. QTY - 1 6- 32 Tap ( high carbon steel ) www.acehardware.com
22. QTY - 6 6 -32 lock washers
Page 7 Bench Vise

#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
Our Small Horsepower Pancake Motor:

These motors are very unique. They can be designed to be very light weight for aircraft design as
well as fit in small tight areas. The picture you see below is just one of many motors we built for
testing purposes. As you can see we applied masking tape to hold the brushes in place, you
would want to use copper, aluminum or stainless steel nuts and bolts to keep the brushes from
moving. Making them with an adjustable pressure screw is even better. It would be very simple to
design this motor to be a super flat motor! ( As small as 1/8” thick )! This type of motor can be
used in many different type of applications, the possibilities are endless! If aluminum wire is used
for the spiral coil(s) and the spiral coil(s) made to 24” to 34” in diameter ( used as a wing span ),
one could build a very powerful, light weight, electric motor aircraft. We have many designs
and ideas just like this still on the drawing board and many filed away. As an inventor and
research scientist I have found out there is never enough time to build all the hundreds of ideas I
have in my head, it would take a life time. I hope you enjoy building my motors.
Thank you
David Waggoner
sales@fuellesspower.com
For High Voltage Power

Supply see page 32
Page 8
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
Our Small Horsepower Pancake Motor:

It is best to start off using Qty- 2 N38 or N40 Neodymium magnets. Make your adjustments
then if you like you can attach the other 2 magnets. Be careful when handling these magnets
they are among the strongest magnets in the world! Wear safety goggles. Magnets can attract
very quickly to each other, shatter and break.
N
+
+
6- 32 x 1/4”
Machine
Screws
N CE Drill hole
C IE slightly
S
E smaller
ATIV than the
C RE head of
the screw
so the
motor
Make about 19 layers of
#27 AWG spiral coils + mount can
be adjusted.
Or you can
make as a
tight fit.
Part # 5
Motor Mount
Aluminum
Donut 1
6 2 Inch OD
Disk 3
7 8 Inch OD Part # 5a ( hidden
under Part #5 )
Aluminum Donut Tap out
Spacer. Use 2 way (thread for
carpet tape to short bolts )
drill bit 3-7/64”
5 attach to top coil tap = 6-32
3 8 Inch ID array.
If this spacer is not 5
thick enough, use
3 8 Inch ID
thin washers to
Page 9
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
Part # 18
Part # 12a
Pa
rt #
19
Par
t#9
a
N
Part #
9
Part # 2
PVC pipe
+ Part #
9
+ Pa
rt #1 9
9 Part #
rt # 9
Pa
6 6- 32 x 1/4”
rt #1 Machine
Pa Screws
Part # 5
Aluminum
Donut
Copper pipe
Part # 5
Homemade copper + N CE
pipe commutator. IE
Entire assembly = SC
E
Part # Cm26 Spiral coil Array ATIV
glued to 1/4” PVC Copper foil RE
sheeting ( Disk ) input leads C
entire assembly =
Part # Sa27
You will begin making the Spiral coil array first, this maybe the hardest to do, but will be well worth the
effort. You will first wind each spiral coil layer at a time. Each layer is connected in series or you can wind
the bobbin in a conventional electromagnet way, much like the windings of the primary coil of a transformer,
right to left method side by side. This method is less efficient than spiral but will work. You will then be
using 3M spray adhesive to get the wire to stick to your base while you are winding the wire side by side
and turning the base. The wire does not need to be cut when you get to the end of the wind, but is wound
back through the paper spacer(s) ( which should be the same thickness as the wire )and back through the
slit in the center of the coil or PVC pipe. You will be winding one layer at a time from a continuous wire roll
or 6 lb spool of #27 AWG copper coated wire. Once you have about 19 to 20 layers then solder the copper
foil input leads to the 2 input coil wires. At this point you have 2 options; 1. You can leave the spiral coil
array just the way it is or 2. completely coat it with 2 part clear epoxy to protect the coil array from damage
( Recommended ) You can do this by making a wooden mold from plywood or other, to loosely fit the coil
array inside of the wood mold, allow about a 1/8” space on top and a 1/4” space on sides and bottom. You
can use small finishing nails, nailed through the bottom of wood mold at about 1/4” length through the back
of the wood. Then lay the array on top of the nails. Again, you will want the epoxy about 1/8” thick on top
and about 1/4” thick on the sides and the bottom. DO NOT ALLOW BRUSHES ( part #12a ) to hit any part
of the rotor shaft ( Part # 16 ) while running, motor will short out and run slow.
Page 10
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
See internet for Conversion Charts: http://convert.french-property.co.uk/

or http://www.onlineconversion.com/
“ = Inch
You will be needing about
8 Inches 21 sheets of thick paper,
Outer Diameter cut to 8” diameter.
( OD )
PART # 1 PART # 6 The center holes must be
1/4” thick PVC cut to a tight fit to fit over
1
the center pvc pipe.
14 Inches You can use an X-Acto
knife or a special paper
circle cutter that you can
purchase on the internet at
art supply stores. The
paper ( center hole ) must
1/4” PVC Coil Base Thick paper as coil spacers fit tight around the pvc
Should be as thick as wire or
a little less.
pipe.
Http://www.makingmemories.com/products/tools/circlecutter.cfm
You will need a Drill press Circle cutter from www.sears.com. Install the Circle cutter in the drill press. Now
adjust the cutter to cut a 8 inch diameter cut. Set drill speed for 250 rpms or less. Begin cutting the 1/4 PVC
slowly. Cutting about 1/16” deep cuts at a time. Use your depth adjuster control on your drill press to control
the depth amount to cut. If you try to cut to deep and to fast the cutter can lock up. Now drill a 1 1/4” hole in
the center for the winding bolt to go through. If you do not wish to cut these parts yourself there are laser
cutting companies in your area or on the internet that can do it for you for a small fee. Also I have not yet
tried it, but you may be able to cut your thick paper with the drill press circle cutter. Use spray adhesive to
hold you material down.
Now cut part # 5 and #5a ( 1/4” thick 3

aluminum donut spacer ). Now sand E 78 Inches
the edges of the both parts with med PART # 5 B ( OD )
sand paper then with fine sand paper.
PART # 5 Motor base: Mark center
marks as shown with a fine point 1
1 2 G
permanent marker. Mark all drill hole
areas then drill holes A, B, C & D with
F I 7
Inch
CENTER
a 7/32” drill bit. Drill all these holes A

8
5
8 C
32
3/4” from the edge of disk. Now drill 3
G, H, I, J holes using a 3/16” drill bit. H J
4
Part # 5a motor base spacer:
Mark part #5a with the same center 3 Inch
marks as part 5, now lay part #5 over 16 5 Inches
top of part #5a and make sure center 38 ( ID )
holes line up ( F ) then take a fine D
point marker and mark a center mark
through A, B, C & D holes onto part 5.
Now drill 7/64” holes so you can tap
out the holes. ( thread them so bolts
can screw into them.) CENTER
Page 11
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
Air Core Bobbin and Motor Coil

Top View Figure #1
Rotor Shaft
N
C E
EN
Use #27 copper High Voltage
coated wire, double
DC Input I
coated = about 4 lbs
SC
or 290 ohms
+ IV E
T
EA
CR
The above drawing is an example of just one motor coil. When a DC voltage is applied a strong magnetic
flux is created in the center space of the coil creating a strong electromagnet. The coil is very high
efficient! You can create a north pole or south pole magnetic flux in the center of the coil by using the
positive on one side or the other. Only the top part of the coil is used in this drawing, the bottom is not used and is wasted.
The bottom side of the coil can be used as another motor source or transformer generator type device while the motor is running.
Making a spiral coil can be some what time consuming, but it will be well worth it in the end. The above
drawing ( Figure #1 ) is just an example of a small hp spiral coil motor. It is best to use a spiral coil and is
the most efficient way to build this motor. But you do not have to use a spiral coil, you can use the left to
right winding method, each wind should be side by side, starting from the left and then going to the right
and then back to the left, No spaces and no overlapping other than overlapping for each layer. Each layer
should be covered with very thin rigid cardboard or plastic or you could use 2 part 5 min epoxy on each
layer. Another option is to use square wire, it would lay side by side much better than round wire, but
maybe more expensive.
Again the coil will also be acting as a large high voltage capacitor and if you have ever built a capacitor
you know that the plates must be of the same size and have equal amounts of spacing or die electric
spacing. So the more capacitance in the coil the more free energy. The motor will reuse this energy to
help run itself, causing the motor to be very high efficient. If you wind the coils any old way having spaces
and many over laps of wire the motor will work but will be less efficient. Winding the coils should be a
very slow process it will take a long time but will be well worth it! Transformer coil companies have
machines that can turn the wire side by side perfectly, but those machines cost thousands of dollars. You
could contact a transflormer and or coil manufacture and they would wind the coils for you. Or you might
try a motor repair shop in your area they may have a machine to do it as well. If you are good at
designing and building, you could make your own automatic coil winder using long bolts ( Fine thread )
as a mover nut assembly. The nut and the wire guide will ride the long bolt. To turn the mover wire nut
guide you will need a 90 vdc conveyer belt motor with a speed controller from grainger.com it would cost
about $125. You will also want to add a switch to reverse the polarity of the motor so it will reverse and
bring the guide back the other way. You could use magnetic replay switches at both ends of the bobbin,
and of course you would want to make them adjustable. You could try converting a small lathe. The higher
the resistance the less amperage the motor will need to run on and the higher the efficiency! ( the more winds the better )
Page 12
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Fig 2
Fig 3 Drill Press
SIDE VIEW PVC Pipe

Of PVC Bobbin
1/4” PVC sheet
1/4” or 1/8” PVC bobbin
If you carefully study the motor coil and rotor magnet design you will see that it is very
different from any other motor that is manufactured today! This is not just a motor but a
motor generator that produces free energy to help run itself! Most all generators and
motors today use copper coated wire wrapped around a soft iron core. And the iron core
does not move. If the same control method is used it should be possible to increase hp by
using soft iron cores for both stator and rotor. You can make your own soft iron cores by
using soft iron power ( as round as you can get ) and mixing the iron power with 2 part
epoxy and making a wooden mold to make your own molded iron cores. This is the best
way to make a homemade iron core and is the most efficient. There are companies that will
make the molded iron core for you to any size you wish. ( Search the internet ) The iron
cores should be made strong. Most companies mix the epoxy and soft iron powder together
and pour it into the mold, then they compress the mixture with about 400 to 600 lbs of
pressure to squeeze out the access epoxy and air bubbles. It is then allowed to dry and is
heated. By making soft iron cores this way there is no need to use laminated iron cores,
which is widely used in most motors and transformers today. Once you learn the technique,
you can build soft iron molded cores to any size or shape that you want. When the molded
cores are magnetized, each nano size ( round is best ) piece of soft iron within the molded
iron core, acts like a magnet! And since the molded core has thousands of these tiny
magnets stacked side by side the iron core can become a high efficient super electro- EXAMPLE OF A
MOLDED IRON
magnet when energized by the high voltage flowing through the copper coil. CORE
Before you can start spinning the motor coil

a PVC bobbin must be made, as well as a MORE POWER!
Bobbin coil turn table. ( if building a larger Epoxy
motor ). For small coils we use a table top Coating
drill press as a coil spinner, we use a 90 N S N S N S N S N S N S
vdc motor with controller to control the spe- Iron powder
ed. The 90 vdc motor controller uses 120 Epoxy coating around each nano powder of iron
vac and then steps it down to 90 vdc to run so the nano pieces do not short each other out.
the motor. Option 2 is to build a large round
wooden table with a Lazy Susan connected to the bottom. The PVC bobbin can be taped
with 2 way carpet tape to the top of the wooden Lazy Susan or held down with wood screws
or nuts and bolts. you will need to turn the entire structure by hand. Which is a very slow
process.
Page 13
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Spiral Coil Construction

1/4” or 1/8” PVC Plastic
PVC Bobbin:
Use a matt knife or a table saw with a fine blade to cut the 1/4” PVC square sheet.
You will then need to cut a 8” circle out of the 12” x 12 “ pvc sheet. Use a drill press
circle cutter to do this. It is best to circle cut on an 1/8” or more aluminum sheet.
Bolt down all materials to drill press table or use C-clamps. Now cut your 2 1/4”
PVC pipe to about 3/4” tall and then center it on the 8” PVC disk and glue it using
all purpose PVC glue. Let dry and then cut 2 slits in the sides of the pipe using a
hacksaw or other. The slits are so the wire can go through. Now drill a ½” hole
in the center of PVC disk and connect a ½” long bolt into the hole.
Use 2 washer and 2 - ½”nuts to attach. Drill a small hole in
toward the center of disk, this is for the 1st start wire lead. Cut out 8” D
Part #1
Cut to 8” diameter
TOP VIEW Part #2
Fig 1a 1/4” PVC Disk

Fig 2
PVC PIPE
Glued Here
Wire lead hole

or Start hole B
N CE
C IE 1/4” or 1/8” PVC bobbin
S
E
ATIV
E
CR
½” long bolt and

washers and nuts.
Fig 2a Or bolt can be less Drill Press
than ½” to fit your Fig 3
Chuck
drill press chuck.
SIDE VIEW PVC Pipe

Of PVC Bobbin
1/4” PVC sheet
1/4” or 1/8” PVC bobbin

Page 14
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
ASSEMBLY: Your PVC Bobbin should now be done and been allowed to dry for about 24
hrs. Attache the ½” long bolt connected to the PVC bobbin to your drill press chuck and
tighten. Unplug your drill press. Place a paper protector around the PVC center pipe ( part #2
) paper should fit tightly and flush on the bottom with the PVC disk. Now spray the top of the
PVC disk with 3M adhesive spray, let it dry for about 2 to 3 minutes. Open the top lid of the
drill press. Place your 5 to 6 pound spool of #27 Copper coated wire upright on the floor in
between your legs were you will be sitting in front of your drill press the wire will come off
from the top very easily.
Now it’s time to begin turning the wire onto the PVC Bobbin. Place the beginning of the wire
in the start hole area B. allow about 12” to come through the hole and tape it to the bottom of
the PVC bobbin using masking tape. Now you will want to start spinning the large pulley on
the drill press by hand to get things started. Don’t rush, but take it slowly and at the same
time guiding the #27 wire side by side around the PVC pipe part #2. Try to keep your first
wind as close to the PVC pipe as you can. ( no spaces and no over lapping ). Try using the
end of a razor blade ( the end that is not sharp, see photo ) use this to guide, press down and
push the wire into position so it will also stick well to the spray adhesive. Be careful not to
scratch the coating off the wire, if you do then paint the exposed area with enamel paint or
other and let it dry before going on. You may have to re-spray with adhesive. Make sure you
have good ventilation, use a fan if you have to and a mask. Once you have about 1.5” wide
of wire wound around the PVC pipe and flat to the PVC disk surface, you can plug in your
drill press, ( Drill press must be converted to a low rpm adjustable speed drill press by using
a 90 VDC conveyer motor and speed controller ) and turn on your speed controller at it’s
lowest speed, keep one hand on the speed control and one hand guiding the wire onto the
disk. If you mess up you can Quickly shut off the motor. Don’t worry it’s not that hard, you will
get good at this the more you do it. When you become better at it, then you can speed up the
motor a bit more. Wind the wire all the way to the end of the disk, Stop the motor... You have
now completed one spiral coil layer.
Now mix 2 part epoxy and spread it thin and even onto the top of the wire. Make sure you
cover the entire area of wire. If epoxy is still sticky and not dry you can place your Part #6
paper separator over top of it and smooth it down flat and place a 8” donut plywood board or
steel weight over top of that and let it dry for 35 to 40 minutes. If 2-part epoxy has already
dried, then re-spray the top of the wire with 3M spray adhesive. Now take part #6 ( the
paper die electric separator, cut as shown on page 5. ) Spray one side of the paper with the
3M spray adhesive and spray the top of wire again with a thin coat of spray adhesive, let dry
for 2 to 3 minutes then place the Part # 6 Paper over top of the copper wire spiral coil that you
completed. Press down firmly getting out as many air bubbles as you can. * Now spray the
Top of paper with a thick coat of 3M spray adhesive. Take the wire straight through the paper
slit and through the left slit in the PVC pipe ( part #2 ), then the wire should be inside of the
PVC pipe you then direct the wire back through the 2nd right slit in the PVC pipe and start
winding your 2nd spiral coil layer on top of the first layer. Repeating the same steps as you
did before. Continue, keeping to these steps until you have about 19 to 25 layers. The more
layers the better! See photo’s on next page, page 15 they maybe helpful.
Page 15
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
Page 16
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
# 27 AWG Wire
#34 AWG Wire used for another coil prototype.
Page 17
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
Page 18
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
Step One Step Two Step Three
TOP VIEW
C E
IEN
SC
VE
TI
E A
Step Four CRStep Five Step Six
No spaces
For illustration
purposes only
Now that you have successfully completed your motor coil Using a volt meter with ohms and capacitance
capabilities take an ohms resistance reading and write the results on top of the paper of the coil, next take a
capacitance reading and do the same. You will now need to weigh the entire coil and write that down as
well.
Page 19
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine
Paper Die Electric Separators
3rd Spiral Coil etc..

2nd Spiral Coil
First Spiral Coil
Side View of Spiral Coil Array. Paper can over lap 1/4” or less or can be even with copper ends.
Optional Bobbin and Winding Method
1/4’ PVC
PVC pipe
Side View of 8” Diameter PVC Bobbin
Again, there is an optional winding method instead of

winding spiral coil layers and is much easier but a bit less
efficient. It is the conventional left to right method. Take
apart an old microwave oven transformer or wall Fill gap with Air Gap
transformer and slowly remove the wire and you will get a epoxy or
autobody
good idea of how to wind your coil. Each wire is wound filler
side by side left to right then right to left, No spaces or over
lapping of wire except to start a new layer. Each layer
should be coated with a thin layer of 2 part epoxy or thin
cardboard ( Non flammable electrical type cardboard ).
STARTER
You can pay a motor repair shop to wind the coil or coils for WIRE
you or a transformer or electromagnet manufacture. It is
cheaper to do the winding yourself. There is a 3rd option:
you can wind each layer the best you can ( sporadic Large wire for illustration
winding, of course the efficiency will be much lower than purposes only.
using spiral coil layers.
Page 20
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

+
1
Part # 5a 6 2 Inch OD Once the spiral coil array is built and is coated
with 2 part epoxy for protection, You will then be
attaching part #5a to the top of the spiral coil
array using 2 way carpet tape. If part # 5a
Tap out needs to ever be removed you can do so by
(thread for
short bolts ) soaking the carpet tape with mineral spirits or
drill bit 3-7/64” paint thinner. At this point you should have 4
tap = 6-32 holes on the top of part # 5a that are tapped out
( threaded ) Part # 5 will then be fitted with the
5 entire motor assembly when completed and
3 8 Inch ID
connected to the coil assembly and bolted into
place using short bolts. ( Lock washers and
Option 2: Motor mount spacer can also be cut to same size steel washers should be used as well ).
as Part #5 if you like. Cut to 7 3/8” OD if desired.
Shaft Block Motor Ends: Part # 19

If you have purchased a ½”x 2” aluminum bar from smallparts.com or your
local machine shop, you will then need to cut 2 pieces at 1 3/8” long. Then
drill your holes as shown in below drawings and tap ( thread ) the holes. (
You could line them up with the holes on part #5 and mark your drill holes
that way ). Once you have threaded them you can then insert the 5/16”
needle bearings into both motor ends by pressing them in with a bench vice.
Now attach the motor ends to part #5 using Qty 4 6-32 x ½”machine
screws. It is best to also use steel washer and lock nuts.
Part #’s 19 QTY - 2 Threaded E

NC
CE
6 32 tap IE
C
NT
S “
E R
ER
C RE
ATIV
5 “ CENTE
8
1 3/8” 5
8
½”
Ho “ C
le
1
16
2”
½”
Page 21
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Rotor Shaft & Magnet

Assembly
Now it’s time to assemble the 5/16” x 14” rotor shaft and magnet assembly. You will work on the
north pole side of the rotor shaft first. You can find the north pole of the magnets by using a
compass. Use a fine point, black permanent marker and mark your first magnet with a small N.
Then find the south pole of your 2nd magnet and mark it with an S. Care must be taken when
handling these magnets! read all safety instructions your Neodymium magnet supplier gives you.
Use protective eye wear. These magnets are hard to handle so you must take your time. We use
N38 Neodymium magnets, it’s best to use N40 or higher but they are much more expensive and
harder to work with. Neodymium magnets are the most powerful permanent magnets in the world!
You will be using 2 part Devon epoxy. ( a 2nd option is to glue magnets with professional magnet
motor glue and then epoxy the air spaces. This special glue is called LOCTITE 7649 and
LOCTITE 326 it is a 2 part mixture as well. We did not use this on our first prototype and our
motor is running very well so far. Clean the 5/16” round rod pieces with Lacquer thinner or other.
Hands and work area must be kept very clean! Mark the area’s were the magnets will be placed,
No need to glue the bottoms of the magnets just place them in place and apply glue to the bottom
side areas first. Placing the magnets: Secure the 5/16” round rod motor shaft assembly ( see
next page or use clamps ) Use both hands, left hand on your right wrist, right hand holding magnet
and slowly come at the rotor shaft rod were magnet(s) will lay, Come in at an angle, you do not
want the magnets to snap to the surface with all the magnets force, you must hold back some of
that force and help slide it into place. Magnets can break and shatter! Start with your first magnet,
line it up dead center and glue it very well with epoxy, Let it dry for about 2 hrs. Then you can
apply the 2nd disk magnet on the other side.
Now glue the air spaces in between the magnets with 2 part epoxy then let it dry overnight. You can
block the ends off with masking tape so epoxy will not drip out. Always keep in mind the rotor must
be as well balanced as you can make it. The rotor will be turning at very high rpms, if it is off
balanced the entire motor will vibrate and can vibrate parts loose. Use tape as wall molding to
keep the 2 part epoxy in. Make sure there are no holes in tape or the epoxy will leak out. Once
you have finished the north pole side use masking tape and card board to protect it from damage
or other magnets coming in contact with it when you start the south pole side. Use lacquer
Thinner or xylene to clean parts before applying epoxy.
5/16” Round rod Motor Shaft Assembly

Magnets and copper pipe commutator
will be attached to this rod.
Model 1
Page 22
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Rotor Shaft & Magnet

Assembly
N
E
ENC
I
SC
E
TIV
R EA
C Wax Paper
5/16” Round Rod
Step One Magnet Spacer
Top View
Use 2 - part clear epoxy N38 or N40 Neodymium Disk magnet

to glue 5/16” round rod area of placement after spacers are
spacers into place glued into place.
Lay wax paper flat on a table top. Then lay the 5/16” x 14” round rod rotor shaft on top of the wax paper.
Tape the rotor shaft to the table top using strong heavy duty tape on both ends so it will not move. Cut
qty -2 5/16” round rod spacers as shown. Sand and clean with mineral spirits or other paint thinner, let
dry then mix and apply ( longer drying ) 2-part clear epoxy onto the middle of the shaft area, apply epoxy
also to the 2 5/16” spacers, cover them in it. Then place the 2 5/16” round rod spacers into place as
shown. Then tape to long 14” pieces of 5/16” round rod Top View
on both sides of spacers to keep them in place. Then
place a heavy flat object on top of the rod and spacers
and let dry overnight. Optional : Once this is dry you can
then drill 2 small precision holes through both the
spacers and the center round rod for steel pins to fit in.
Apply epoxy to pins before placing them in holes.
Mark 2 - N38 magnets with center marks. Now carefully place your magnets in the center of rod over top
of 5/16” spacers. Place the first one then the 2nd one, north on one side, south on the other. Get them as
well balanced as you can on the rotor shaft. Now tape open ends and all epoxy fill all spaces, cover the
magnets also. With a thin layer of epoxy. You may need to go back later and apply a 2nd or 3rd coat.
Page 23
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Contact Brush’s
Black tape &

Clear tape
+ Commutator & Brush Assembly
+
JB Weld
Epoxy
Homemade Copper Pipe
Commutator Copper pipe
Part # Cm26
Part # Cm26
5/16” soft steel collar
This is our homemade copper pipe commutator, designed by Dave Waggoner. It is designed to turn on
and off the incoming DC negative voltage to the High voltage motor coil. For example, when 360 vdc is
applied to the coil and commutator switch, and the commutator turns to the on position, the large motor
coil or spiral coil is excited by electrons and causes the coil of wire to become a powerful electro magnet,
which has a north and south pole. This same commutator principle can be used on any size motor you
wish. The larger the motor the bigger in diameter you would want to make the copper pipe commutator.
The Copper pipe commutator shown above acts like a buss bar and when it comes in contact with the
brushes it completes the circuit allowing electrical energy to flow. Timing the motor is easy. When the
Copper pipe commutator is fully assembled simply turn your magnet N to the 1:00 position and mark
were the end of brush is in contact with copper pipe. Then turn to the 6:00 position and again mark were
the end of the brush’s are in contact with the copper pipe. Now using your marks as a guide apply
insulation black tape from the 1:00 position to the 6:00 position. See Introduction page 7.
STEP ONE STEP TWO

Drill small holes
5/16” ID on one side. 5/16” ID
PVC Washers 1/4” thick or 1/8” thick
Use a drill press circle cutter to cut 2 PVC washers

to fit perfectly inside the 2 ends of the copper pipe.
5/16” soft steel collar They must fit very tight. The 5/16” holes must be
dead center. You can use carbon, steel, aluminum
or plastic for your washers. These washers will be
used for molding and keeping the 2 part epoxy
STEP THREE inside of the copper pipe as well as keeping the
5/16” round rod centered in the middle while epoxy
Cut a piece of 3/4” Diameter” x 1 ½” length is drying. This will give you a perfect 5/16”
or 2” OD x 1 ½” L copper pipe that you can buy at
any hardware store.Use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe.
STEP FOUR
Cut a small piece of 5/16” round rod to 2 inches long.
1 ½”
Page 24
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

STEP FIVE
Sand 5/16” round rod with fine sand paper 5/16” Round Rod
PVC Washer C
then clean the round rod and inside of
pipe with lacquer thinner. Let dry, then C
Apply Grease
place copper pipe upright on wax paper.
Now apply white axle grease to the Fill with 2 part A
surfaces of A , B , and round rod. Do not JB Epoxy
allow white grease to come in contact
E
with the inside of the copper pipe. Now E
Apply
place washer D flat on the bottom inside Grease
of pipe. Mix 2 part JB weld Epoxy very B
well and fill E area ( inside of copper D
pipe ) to the line of A . Now place C PVC Washer D
washer down into pipe and push firmly to
squeeze out all air bubbles. Allow to dry
overnight. TOP VIEW
STEP SIX
Remove washer and round rod carefully,
turn round rod slowly and pull out. Cut
small shallow cuts with Xacto knife in
bottom B it will be the flattest area.
STEP SEVEN Cut small slits in top B

Grease the round rod again and place
back into the 5/16” hole, now place the Figure #3
5/16” collar onto round rod and down onto 12:00
Fig 4
the top surface of B . Now glue steel CEDouble thick 1:00
IEN Black Tape
collar to the dried JB epoxy surface, apply SC
E
JB weld to the bottom surface and all
ATIV
around the seams. Be careful not to get
C RE
any epoxy on the round rod.
Let dry overnight or 8 to 12 hrs then

remove round rod.
6:00
STEP EIGHT
Again timing the motor is easy. When the Copper pipe commutator is fully assembled simply turn your
magnet N to the 1:00 position and mark were the end of brush is in contact with copper pipe. Then turn to
the 6:00 position and again mark were the end of the brush’s are in contact with the copper pipe. Now using
your marks as a guide apply insulation black tape from the 12:15 position counter clockwise to the 6:00
position. See Introduction page 7 or fig 4 above. ( You may need to adjust the length a bit? ) Trim all access
tape off with an Xacto knife or sharp razor blade. Once you have applied the black tape you will then need to
apply clear shipping tape over the black tape. The reason is that the black tape is a rubber and it is hard for
the brush’s to slide over. You want the least amount of resistance as you can get. Use double thick black
tape. If you do not use double thick tape the back emf voltage and amperage is so high that it will burn holes
right through your tape to the copper. The copper pipe, the tape and the brush’s also act as a HV Capacitor.
During motors operation the brush commutator area will clearly demonstrate more power output than input, in
the form of plasma arcs as well as large high voltage & amperage sparks and spikes which must be
controlled.
Page 25
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Model 2
PVC Bobbin with

Aluminum ends and
5/16” long bolt to attach
to drill press during winding.
Voltage Doubler, 360 vdc. see plans #378

HV Power Supply $9.95 plus shipping.
Model 3
#2
OPTIONAL
#1
CARBON
BRUSHES
Wire Terminal from Home Depot
Page 26
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Part E
Part D
N
Part N #2
Parts Q #1
Part N
Large steel washer for
roller bearing cover.
Part “U” CENTER
Part “K” Nylon bolts

& NUTS
J-B Weld epoxy. would be in
Glue to front of “D”
center, they
support arm
are on side
for illustration
Part M purposes only.
Part A
8 3/8”
E
NC
C IE
S
E
ATIV
C RE
Part B
12”
PART K SHAFT COLLARS Part N

Roller Bearing To fit 5/16” D or buy one and drill it to size 5/16”
Inner Diameter 5/16 You will need a qty of two. The first shaft collar is
You can buy these to hold the shaft into place, allow a 1/8” space or
at Grainger.com more between collar and Part “D” The 2nd steel
or from a skate shop. shaft collar is to be epoxied ( Glued ) to one end
of the finished commutator.
PART “M”
3” BEND 3” BEND 2 ½”
Use a 8 ½” x 3/4” x 1/16” or best to use 1/8” steel bar. This is used to hold the Brush Assembly.
Page 27
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Commutator Brush Assembly

OPTION 2
SIDE VIEW
½” x ½” Steel or workable plastic ( PVC would work also )
Long Push Spring If using Aluminum use a 6-32 x 3/8”

steel machine screw. Tap drill hole
Motor Carbon Brush with 6-3 NC. Drill hole size is 7/16”
suggested size,
About, 5/16” x 1/4”
1/4” x 1 1/4” x 2” L
Aluminum or PVC
JB Weld Epoxy if using PART “ G “
metals, PVC glue if using
PVC material
Drill hole size is 7/16”
1/8” Plastic washer same size as

part “ G “
#2
The number one and number 2 brushes must not short each other out. #1
They must not be electrically connected to each other only when the
copper buss bar makes contact with them. It is best to make the entire
assembly with PVC sheeting, not including the steel holder. If you use
metal material you will need to insulate #1 and #2 from each other. You
can do this by using epoxy glue in between the steel square and the
aluminum base ( Part “ G “ )
If using metal, make sure you apply 3 coats of spray enamel to all
metal surfaces, ( Not including carbon brushes ) Again the Commutator
assembly acts as an on and off switch and must be timed correctly so
the motor runs smooth and does not work against itself. As the copper
pipe buss bar ( # 3 ) rotates with the motors rotor shaft, the carbon
brushes hit the buss bar making a complete circuit.
Top View Copper Pipe

Acts as a Junction
Buss Bar SW.
1 1/4” separates the brushes

from contacting each other.
Nylon Bolts Cut all the way around pipe.
1 ½”
Use a very fine hacksaw
blade to cut spacers, fill
spacers with epoxy and
2” 1 ½”
4 sand smooth.
Page 28
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Copper Pipe Buss Bar Assembly #2

#1
STEP ONE STEP TWO

Cut a piece of 3/4” Next using rough sand
paper, sand the inside of
Diameter Copper pipe.
the copper pipe really
Cut to 1 ½” length 1 ½” well and then clean with
lacquer thinner. Surface 1 ½”
must be free from dirt.
STEP THREE
Using a Q-Tip, Grease a piece of card board a little larger than the copper pipe
diameter, this is so the epoxy will not stick to the Card board surface and can be
removed when dry. You now need to fill the copper pipe with Epoxy, so slowly
squeeze out enough J-B Epoxy to fill the inside of the copper pipe, follow all
directions on the J-B Instructions, Mix the 2 parts very well and start placing the
epoxy inside of the copper pipe. Let dry 24 hrs, I prefer to wait 40 hrs, but the
instruction do not tell you that. We use J-B Epoxy because it is the best on the
market and can stand up to 600 degrees.
Figure #3
STEP FOUR
Now you must find the exact center of the pipe and Figure #4 Acts as a Junction Bar
score it with a sharp punch. You will be scoring or
punching a small hole into the top of the epoxy. You
Separates the brushes
will now need a drill press. Place the copper pipe up- from contacting each other.
ward as seen in figure #3. Make sure bottom surface Cut all the way around pipe.
is very flat, if it is not the hole will be crooked and the Make a double wide cut.
commutator will ride with the shaft crooked and cause 1 ½”
an off balance at high speeds. Start off with the
Use a hacksaw
smallest drill bit you have and work your way up until blade to cut spacers, double wide
you have a hole the same size as your shaft rods 1 1/4” cuts, fill spacers with epoxy and
outer diameter. sand smooth.
STEP FIVE Fill in the cuts with epoxy, let dry 24 hrs then sand
Now using a fine point marker, mark your cut marks down until smooth. Now take a 5/16” steel shaft
on the outside of the copper pipe piece. As shown in and place it back into the epoxy hole, now place a
figure #4. Use a fine tooth hacksaw to cut. steel 5/16” shaft collar onto the steel rod and epoxy
Cut a long center cut all the way around the copper it to the end of your new commutator,
pipe leaving a 3/4” space. Cut all the way through the ( remove the plastic end first. )
copper and just up to the hardened epoxy fill. Do not
cut to deep into the epoxy fill.
Page 29 of #32
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Cut two 1 5/16” x ½” x ½” x 1/16” Square steel.
” “F”
ART “F PA RT
½” P #1
#2
1 5/16”
½” + +
Copper holding Plate

5/16” x 1/4” Motor Brush
PART “F”
J - B weld or PC 7 EPOXY
Plastic Separator
PART “ G” 1/4” PART “ G”
RT “F”
PA 2”
Fill with PC 7 Epoxy or J - B weld about 1/4” deep.
1 1/4”
Brush: grease brush and place inside of square steel part # “F”, Let sit and
dry for 24 hrs, then remove brush and clean it off.
OPTION 3
Back side
As an alternative to using brushes, you could replace with heat
of motor
treated brass, copper or you could call it metal brass spring. Place
the copper on part “ M “ and bend the copper upward. You can
use wood or plastic as the base. It is very important to make a
good strong contact with copper pipe buss bar. + +
Page 30
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Drill holes to: 7/64”

3/4” 3 ½” 3 ½” 3 ½”
5/8”
12”
Aluminum 1/8”channel, Drill holes to 7/64”. You will need a qty of - 2. You will need to tap out each
hole, ( Thread it ) using a 6-3 NC tap plug style.
PART “C” Rotor Shaft
5/16” steel round rod
12”
1 7/8”
You will need three short pieces, two for the magnets to be used as spacers and one for a Shaft mold for making Commutator.
PART “D & E” Rotor Support Arms
2 ½”
Use ½” aluminum bar. Check at: Machine shops, Steel suppliers in your Yellow Pages,
Steel salvage yards etc... Drill two holes on each arm, use a 5/16” drill bit. After you
install roller bearing assembly on part “ D “, remove roller bearing and drill a bigger hole
using a 11/32” drill bit. On Part “ E “ Drill only halfway through, so the 5/16 rotor shaft
Part “ D “
Part “ E “
can turn on it.

Part “ D “ Part “ E “
Center Center
Roller bearing assembly, Use a large steel washer, assemble this after you put
the Rotor shaft and arms together Once your shaft is running through Part “ D “
hole, you can then place the Roller bearing onto it. Grease the outer part of the
bearing, Predrill 2 or 3 holes in the large steel washer, place the large washer
over top of the roller bearing, center and mark your holes, use a 7/64” drill bit
and tape out your holes with a 6-3 NC tap, then attach the washer to Part “ D “
with 6-32 x1 ½” bolts. Now mix up some J-B weld or Pc7 Epoxy and fill the 4 1/4”
3 11/16” inside beneath the washer and all around the roller bearing. ( Make sure 3 11/16” connected in parallel,
bearing is greased well so you can remove it to later drill your larger hole.
The reason you need to dril l a larger hole later is so your rotor shaft can turn
½”
more easily. Let epoxy dry for 24 hrs, then remove your Steel washer roller
bearing plate, then remove your roller bearing, drill a bigger hole in Part “D” then
place you bearing back onto the molded roller bearing assembly.
2 ½”
Page 31
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

Www.FuellessPower.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA
High Voltage Power Supply

A fast and easy way to build a high voltage power
supply using 9 volt dc batteries. Since our motor
can run on small milliamp currents it could take
hours and sometimes days to drain the batteries.
If a low rpm high voltage generator was connected
to the motor and allowed to re-charge the batteries
the batteries could last for much longer. It is a
very simple set up. Simply connect the 9 volt Creative Science & Research
batteries in series using 9 volt battery caps. COPYRIGHT 2005
WARNING! Connecting more than two 9 volt
batteries in series raises the voltage and can
cause death if negative and positive terminals 9 Volt battery cap:
come in contact with human flesh. Use rubber Twist the ends together
gloves. We are not responsible for anything in and solder. Then tripple
coat with rubber dip or
these plans you build at your own risk. It can be other means.
safe if you use caution and follow high voltage
rules.
It is a good idea to spray each battery with 2 coats
of clear spray paint to help insulate them from + + + + + +
each other since they are so close together they + 9 VOLT 9 VOLT 9 VOLT 9 VOLT 9 VOLT 9 VOLT
can act as a HV capacitor and store energy which BATTERY BATTERY BATTERY BATTERY BATTERY BATTERY
can also shock you. You could use alligator clips

on the end of the + and negative terminals for Example of how to connect in series.
testing your motor. For safety reasons it is a good QTY-6 = 54 VDC
idea to wrap each battery array in clear plastic
wrap. Keep away from children! these
batteries have enough amperage to
+ 198 VDC Top View
light a 100 watt x 120 volt light bulb.

You can purchase 9 volt batteries fr-
om companies that sell them in large
qty at whole sale prices. I have seen 198 VDC
them as cheap as 50 cents each. Our
9 volt battery power supply should onl-
y be used to test motors and coils and
not for long term use unless you rech- QTY- 44 = 396 VDC. Cost per battery .50 cents each = $22.00
arge them. If you can get a good deal
on 9 volt rechargeable batteries that One way diode LOW RPM HV GENERATOR
would be the best thing to use. You
+
will need to build our High voltage ac 12 volt
HV Cap
to dc power supply using special photo car battery 175 WATT
caps and diodes. Ask for order #378 N

HV power supply $9.95 plus shipping. +
+
175 watt Optional Solar

You can buy 9 volt battery caps online inverter HIGH VOLTAGE E
SC
IECells, Glued to
NC
E
at: www.radioshack.com/ or at: changes POWER SUPPLY CR

EA
TIV
motor for added
www.allelectronics.com/ OPTIONAL: 12 vdc to + input power!
Steps up 175 vac
Custom made super high efficient solar 115 vac to 360 vdc - 1200 vdc
?
cells can be added to help with input the voltage is variable.
power.
Page 32
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

INCREASING HORSE POWER

Increasing horsepower is simple and there are many different ways in which you can do it. More
horsepower can be achieved by scaling up model 1 and model 2 motors and making them bigger. You
would then want to use a larger diameter coil wire, for example instead of using #27 AWG wire you would
want to use #22 or #25 depending on the HP needed. The disk magnet for example would be about 4” to
8” in diameter ( much larger than in model 1 ). Another way is to add more magnets to model 2 shaft
and make your coil bobbin longer. Also by adding more coils to the motor will greatly increase the
horsepower. ( for examples see drawings below ). By adding more magnets you will then need to ad
more brush commutator switches for each set of coils. If you use a coil for the top and a coil for the
bottom these 2 coils would fire at the same time. The top coil for example would be a north pole electro
magnet and the bottom coil would be a south pole magnet. Both coils would use the same brush and
commutator assembly. You can also increase the HP by adding another brush commutator switch and
powering the back emf stroke. What I mean is, when the south pole of the rotor shaft magnet is in the
1:00 position, the bottom of the magnet would be in the 7:00 position and when the coil magnets fire,
each coil will be attracting and repelling both poles of the magnet therefore increasing the HP. Another
way to increase HP is to get the magnets as close to the wire as you can, the closer you get the more HP
you will get. Even just a 1/16” space can make all the difference in the world! Keep in mind that magnet
manufactures can custom make any size or shape neodymium magnet you want. DO NOT USE
CERAMIC MAGNETS they are to weak. To wire 2 coils to fire at the same time using one set of brushes,
simply connect them in parallel. Test each coil with a low voltage supply and a magnet or a compass to
find which wires will produce the desired pole of each coil.
SIDE VIEW Model 3
N N N N
Electromagnetic South Pole Flux
More HP! Add more magnets, also use ½”round rod for a rotor shaft.
One coil set up, less HP
Model 4
Electromagnetic North Pole Flux
N
N N N N
S
Electromagnetic South Pole Flux
Two coil set up, More HP! Page 33

#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

More Horsepower: Option 2

Steel Rotor Shaft
2” x 2” Square steel bar.
2” x 2” x 2” N40
You can take this to a Fig 101 Side View
Neodymium
machine shop and have
Fig 103 Magnets
them turn the ends
down to 1” round on a
N Model 4
metal lathe cutter or S
You can use hollow
square tubing
and machine
S N S
N
1” center N
steel
end
pieces
This S
is a view
and bolt of the shaft
them on. only without MOTOR COIL 1 # 22 AWG copper coated wire
the magnets for Spiral Coils
connected.
See fig 02
Example of cardboard templet
Cut out a cardboard templet to measure and find the exact

hole area that the magnet will be spinning inside of. Once you
find the perfect fit then use this templet to trace a 1/4” PVC
Bobbin top with. And cut with a band saw or other.
Fig 102
CUSTOM MADE N40 - NEODYMIUM MAGNET
Rotor Magnet
N
It is best to have a magnet Fig 104

2” x 2” N38 or N40
manufacturer custom
N
Neodymium make one large N38

Magnets or N40 Neodymium
N
Magnet shaped
like this. Then all
N
N that you need

N to do is to
N slip the ma-
gnet over rotor shaft
S the and glue. You
S N
N N would want to
apply glue to
S surfaces first and
N N N then slip magnet
over square shaft
S 8” S area.
6” D x 8” L - or - for more HP 12” D x 18” L.

6”
Page 34
#362 PART ONE
The Fuelless Engine

MODEL # 3 Air Core bobbin coil design, works best!
Aircore type: we used #27 copper coated wire and constructed the bobbin
with 1/8” PVC sheeting purchased from a sign supply company. 3 strand
We then used N38 Neodymium magnets glued to a small steel rod used as the rotor shaft.
The magnet was place ½ way inside of the top of the bobbin coil and turned inside there of.
Page 35
#362 PART 2
The Fuelless Engine

Bonus Pictures for CD #1 Customers at end
This bobbin was used for

generator coils in a spiral coil
method. Very hard to wind. Best
to use an oval shape bobbin.
Page 36
#362
The Fuelless Engine
Page 37
#362
Page 38
#362
Page 39 THE END

Fuelless Engine 50 HP-Free Energy

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Creative

& Research Copyright 2002 - 2005

PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Please Keep all of this information to yourself!

When Free Energy Electric Motors are allowed

You can make the outer case out of just about

The Fuelless Engine

What is back emf? Back emf is free energy caused by a collapsing

The Fuelless Engine

If you are using an isolation transformer it really does not matter

To operate: Turn the ( SW ) switch on for 3 seconds, while the

The Fuelless Engine

Question: What is a Capacitor?

WARNING! Always wear rubber gloves, long sleeve jacket and

+ Electrons stored here

The Fuelless Engine

Free Energy & High Efficiency

Brush Commutator Sw’s

Photo 1 is just an example of one of our

No spaces between wires

Our special spiral coils can be any shape or size.

The Fuelless Engine

Copper Coated Wire and High Capacitance!

Soft Iron Rotor Core sheets glued together

A Common DC Motor Permanent

Copper coated wire coils

For more information see this web site:

The Fuelless Engine

Basic Motor timing Operation ( ½ cycle )

Basic motor operation: 1:00

contact the copper acting as a buss bar #27 Copper wire N

same time is repelling the south pole of

then the entire process starts all over

placed in the top position and therefore 4

The Fuelless Engine

Motor Commutator Operation

We pulse the negative of the HV DC

The negative of the HV dc coming from the

high voltage multiplier is connected to the

The Fuelless Engine

Spiral coil air core

Copper/brass spring brushes

This motor is very high

360 vdc negative wire

The Fuelless Engine

Our New Spiral Coil Technology!

Copyright 2005 - Fuelless Engine is a brandname of Creative Science & Research

#27 copper coated wire. Very High Efficient

The Fuelless Engine

Copper/brass spring brushes

RPMS ARE ADJUSTABLE

Clamp Amp Meter

The Fuelless Engine

Parts & Supplies 1/4” or 1/8” PVC Plastic

1. PVC Sheeting - 1/4” x 12” x 12” ( White )

2. PVC PIPE 2 1/4” Diameter ( White ) Cut out 8” D

3. QTY-1 6 to 10 lb spool of copper coated wire.

Supply Sources: Internet, ( use search engines )

5. QTY-1 Aluminum Sheet 1/8” thick 10” x 10” Part #5

5a. Qty - 1 Aluminum Donut motor base spacer