Available in red and blue colorways.

Quilt finishes 78½" x 101½", or 55½ square.

Renaissance Garden by Jinny Beyer is a sophisticated new two-block quilt design. A traditional chain block alternates
with an original compass design. The compass blocks feature patches fussy cut from the collection’s paisley fabric and
appliquéd into the block in a hybrid technique that Jinny developed and calls “soft-edge piecing”.

All seam allowances are ¼-inch. WOF = Width of Fabric. Fabric 3 (Red Quilt). For middle border, cut 9 strips
Press seam allowances to one side. Read the entire pat- measuring 3" x WOF and set aside for Step 6. Cut 18
tern before beginning. Pattern assumes basic quilt- squares using Template E. Cut 17 squares measuring
making knowledge. 3" for Block C.

Instructions are for blocks that incorporate Jinny Fabric 3 (Blue Quilt). Cut 18 squares using Template
Beyer’s soft-edge piecing technique. If you prefer to E. Cut 17 squares measuring 3" for Block C.
use a traditional fussy cutting technique, refer to the
Fussy Cutting Instructions on page 6 and make the Fabric 4. Using Template B and referring to the
changes noted to the pattern. instructions below, cut 96 of Motif A for Block A and
48 of Motif B for Block B.
The pattern is written for the large quilt. See page
8 for changes related to the small quilt.

Step 1: Make Templates Motif B

Note that using Template A is optional; the patches
can be also be made using a rotary cutter and ruler.
Make two copies of Template B.

Use see-through template plastic to make the tem- Motif A

plates from the patterns on page 5. Using a permanent
marker, transfer all markings including the dashed sew-
ing line, seam intersection dots and grain line arrow(s)
from the patterns to the templates. Motif B

Step 2: Cut Fabrics

After cutting out the patches, be sure to transfer the
seam intersection dots from the templates to the
wrong side of the fabric patches.
Motif A

Fabric 1 (Background). Cut and set aside fabric mea-

suring 72" x WOF for Step 4 (Block C).
Cut 72 triangles using Template A, or cut 36 squares Place one of the B templates on the fabric, shifting it to
measuring 4¼"and cut once on the diagonal. cover Motif A as shown. Place the second B template
Cut 144 patches using Template B. on the fabric, shifting it to cover Motif B as shown.
Adjust the templates if necessary to ensure they do not
Fabric 2 (Red Quilt). Reserve 7/8 yard for binding. overlap. Draw a portion of the fabric design onto each
Cut and set aside 12 strips measuring 2" x 36" for Step template to make it easy to locate identical motifs else-
4 (Block C). Cut 72 using Template C1 and 72 using where on the fabric. Mark around the templates on the
Template C2. fabric. Move the templates, matching the marks on the
templates with the fabric designs, identifying and
Fabric 2 (Blue Quilt). For middle border, cut 9 strips marking the total number of patches required of each
measuring 3" x WOF and set aside for Step 6. Cut and motif. Cut out the patches.
set aside 12 strips measuring 2" x 36" for Step 4
(Block C). Cut 72 using Template C1 and 72 using
Template C2.
1
Fabric 5 (Border Print).
A
Borders: Note that the border strips are cut oversized in
length and will be trimmed to fit the quilt in Step 6.
The left edge of each strip should begin with the same
design motif. Be sure to include ¼-inch of seam

B
allowance fabric on both long sides of the strips.

2
(The seam allowance fabric is the solid or semi-solid

C
B
area between the printed design stripes.)

D
C1

E
From both the wide and narrow stripes, cut:
• two pieces measuring 94" long (top/bottom borders)
• four pieces measuring 62" long (side borders)
(The side borders are each made from two pieces; this
is essential to ensuring that the fabric design flows
smoothly around the quilt.) Set these pieces aside until
Step 6.

From the top and bottom of the remaining wide

stripes, cut 72 patches using Template D as in the illus- A Block
tration below. The dotted line on the template should
be placed just outside of the dark line on the stripe;
this creates a defining edge when the patch is sewn.

B Block

eight per block. After complet-

ing the soft-edge piecing, trim
the background fabric from
behind the appliqué.
Make
eight
Step 3: Make A & B Blocks units.
The A and B blocks are identical except for the fabric Sew a D rectangle to the base of four C2
motif that is used in the areas between the compass compass points.
points. Block A is used for illustration purposes. (Not
all diagrams to scale.) Please note that these illustra- Make four units.
tions do not show seam allowances. The compass
points should end ¼" before the edge of the units.
Sew one of these new units to opposite sides of an E
Follow the instructions below to complete one block. square.

Refer to the separate instruction on Soft-Edge Piecing

on page 7 for detailed information on making these
units. Prepare the Fabric 4 B patches for soft-edge piec-
ing, then pin them to the Fabric 1 B patches. Make Make one unit.
2
Sew a B unit to each long side of four C1 compass
points, taking care not to sew past the dot.

Make four units.

Sew one of the units just constructed to a C2-D com-

pass point, pivoting at the dot. Sew a second unit to
the opposite side. Repeat to make two half-blocks.

Make one unit.

Step 4: Make Block C

Block C alternates with the compass blocks in the quilt.

Cut the 72" x WOF piece of Fabric 1 reserved for this

Make two units. block into two pieces measuring 36" x WOF. From each
36" piece, cut the following:
• two pieces measuring 3" x 36"
• two pieces measuring 6" x 36"
Sew a half-block to • two pieces measuring 9" x 36"
each side of the There will be a total of four pieces of each size.
long center
compass Using the 2" x 36" Fabric 2 strips set aside for this block,
point unit, sew a strip to each 36" side of two 3" wide, two 6" wide
pivoting at and two 9" wide pieces. Press seam allowances towards
the dots, to the outside (grey arrows). Then cut each of these
make one sections into 17
unit. two-inch wide 6" (5½" after sewing)
segments.
2"
36"

Make one unit.

Center an A triangle over each C2 compass point and

sew to create a square block.

Repeat to make 12 of Block A and 6 of Block B.

Blocks finish 12" including seam allowance. This example shows the Fabric 2 strips sewn to a
6" x 36" section. After sewing, the section is sub-
cut into seventeen 2"-wide strips.

3
Cut the remaining 36" long pieces of Fabric 1 into 2" Add the borders to the quilt center, following the
wide strips. Each piece will yield 17 strips. instructions for a rectangular quilt and Adding Multi-
ple Borders in Framing a Quilt the Jinny Beyer Way.
Follow the diagrams and instruction below to make a For a video demonstration of the technique, visit:
block. Blocks finish 12" square including seam allow- www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips.
ances.
Step 7: Finish the Quilt
Sew a 3" Fabric 1 strip to Layer the quilt as follows: backing (wrong side up),
opposite sides of a 3" Fab- batting, quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers
ric 3 square, pressing the together, and quilt as desired.
seams toward the center.
Then sew the shortest Fab- When quilting is completed, trim backing and batting
ric 1/2 strip to the opposite even with the quilt top edges.
sides.
Make binding strips using reserved binding fabric. Bind
Continue sewing the strips the quilt using your favorite binding method or by fol-
to the unit in order of size, lowing the instructions in Binding a Quilt the Jinny
starting with a Fabric 1 Beyer Way at: www.jinnybeyer.com/promos/binding.
strip and then adding
the Fabric 1/2 strip. Small Quilt
Continue to press the
Fabric 1 strips toward
the center of the block. A C A C A

Repeat to make a total

of 17 blocks.
C B C B C

Step 5: Assemble the Quilt Center

Following the image on the right, sew four rows of five A C A C A
blocks beginning and ending with A block and alter-
nating with C blocks; and three rows of five blocks
beginning and ending with C blocks and alternating
with B blocks. Press the seams of the A rows to the left C B C B C
and the seams of the B rows to the right. Sew the rows
together as shown.

A C A C A
Step 6: Add the Borders
Note that all the border strips are cut oversized and are
trimmed to fit.
C B C B C
Middle Border: Sew the nine strips set aside for the
middle border in Step 2 together end to end. From
that length, cut two strips measuring 94" (top/
bottom) and two strips measuring 124" (sides). A C A C A

Quilt Assembly

4
 Template D

A
e
at
pl
m
Te

Line
Mirror

Tem
late p
B

Template Size Check

This box should measure

2 inches square.

If the box does not measure 2",

your templates will not be the
correct size.

If you are printing at home, be

sure your printer is set to print at
100% with “no scaling”.

Template C1

Template E

5
 Traditional Fussy Cutting Technique
Pattern Changes
Jinny’s soft-edge piecing technique lets you take full advantage of a fabric’s design motifs in your patchwork.
However, if you prefer to use a more traditional approach, fussy cutting the patches will also yield lovely blocks.

To use the traditional fussy cutting technique, follow the pat- A

tern, making the changes noted below.

Step 1

F
Template B is not required. Make an F/Fr template and a
G template from the patterns provided here.

2
C
G
Fr

D
Step 2

C1

E
Fabric 1 (Background). Do not cut the Template B
patches. Instead, cut 144 F and 144 F-reversed (Fr)
patches. (To cut a reversed patch, flip the template over so
the marked side is against the fabric.) Keep the F and Fr
fabric patches separated.

Fabric 4. The G template (not

the B template) is used to cut
the patches indicated. The same
process is used, but the G A Block
template will cover a smaller
portion of the fabric motif. The
cut patches will look similar to
the images here. Motif A Motif B
Cut 96. Cut 48.

Step 3
On page 2, rather than preparing the B patches for soft-edge B Block
piecing, sew the Fr-G-F patches together as illustrated below.
This unit is used instead of the soft-edge
pieced unit in the block assembly
instructions in the remainder of Step
3 of the pattern.

Template
F/Fr

6
 Soft-Edge Piecing
Soft-edge piecing combines patchwork and appliqué in the same unit. Here’s an
overview of the soft-edge piecing technique using the Renaissance Garden block.

Identify the Patch & Motif

To incorporate soft-edge patches in any block, identify an area in which a motif
from your fabric will fill the space or replace a patch. To make a template, trace
around the edges of the patch onto see-through template plastic and add ¼-inch
seam allowance around the outside. Draw a line through the center of the patch;
this is the mirror line. This template is used to mark and cut the background
patches and also to identify, mark and cut the design motifs for the soft-edge
pieces.(Diagram 1.)

Next, working with the patterned fabric, find a mirror-image motif that has a well-
defined edge. (A mirror-image motif is symmetrical, with one side being the exact
reflection of the other side.) Place the template on the fabric motif, making sure that the
mirror line on the template runs straight through the center of the fabric motif. Shift the
template to find a position where the mirrored motif will fit nicely within the inside
(sewing) lines of the template (Diagram 2). Mark a portion of the design onto the tem-
plate to make it easier to find the same motif elsewhere on the fabric.

Mark and cut the number of background patches and motif patches
required for your block (Diagram 3).

Complete the Soft-Edge Piecing

Trim the patterned patch approximately 3/8" (or your preferred appliqué seam alloance)
away from the portion of the design to be appliquéd. (Diagram 4.) Pin the trimmed patch
to the background patch and appliqué the trimmed edge down. Working from the front of Diagram 1: Make a template of the
the fabric, Jinny prefers to finger-press along a printed line on the fabric and then thread- patch which will incorporate soft-edge
baste the folded edges, however starch basting or needle-turn can work equally piecing.
well(Diagram 5.)

When the appliqué is complete, carefully trim away the background fabric now covered with the patterned motif. The soft-
edge pieced patch can now be used as a regular patch in the quilt block.
For a video demonstration of the soft-
edge piecing technique, visit
www.jinnybeyer.com/videotips

Diagram 3. Cut Diagram 4. Trim outside Diagram 5. Pin or baste the

Diagram 2. Position the template on the fab-
out the patches. the motif, leaving approxi- design patch to the background
ric, marking a portion of the design motif
mately 3/8" to turn under. patch, then appliqué in place.
onto the template.

7
 Small Quilt - Pattern Changes
A smaller version of Renaissance Garden features just five of the star blocks. Follow the Renaissance Garden instructions, mak-
ing the changes noted below.

Fabric Requirements Step 3: Make A & B Blocks

Fabric 1 - Red/Blue - 1½ yards Make a total of four of Block A and one of Block B.
Fabric 2 - Red - 11/8 yards, includes binding. Blue - 11/8
yards, include middle border. Step 4: Make Block C
Substitute these cutting and sewing instructions for those
Fabric 3 - Red - 5/8 yard, includes middle border. Blue - 1/8
shown on page 3. The diagram is still accurate, but the sec-
yard.
tion would measure 18" long, not 36" long.
Fabric 4 - Red/Blue - 2 yards
Fabric 5 - Red/Blue - 2 yards
Cut the 18" x 36" piece of Fabric 1 reserved for this block
Fabric 6 - Blue - ½ yard for binding.
into two pieces measuring 18" x 18". From each 18" piece,
3½ yards of fabric is required for backing. Fabric 3 suggested
cut the following:
for blue; Fabric 6 suggested for red.
• one piece measuring 3" x 18"
• one piece measuring 6" x 18"
Step 2
• one piece measuring 9" x 18"
Substitute these cutting instructions for Fabrics 1-5 on pages
There will be a total of two pieces of each size.
1-2.
Using the 2" x 18" Fabric 2 strips set aside for this block,
Fabric 1 (Background). Cut and set aside fabric measuring
sew a strip to each 18" side of one 3" wide, one 6" wide and
18" x 36" for Step 4 (Block C).
one 9" wide pieces. Press seam allowances towards the out-
Cut 20 triangles using Template A, or cut 10 squares mea-
side (grey arrows). Then cut each of these sections into eight
suring 4½"and cut once on the diagonal.
2-inch wide segments.
Cut 40 patches using Template B.
Cut the remaining 18" long piece of Fabric 1 into 2-inch
Fabric 2 (Red Quilt). Reserve ½ yard for binding. Cut and
wide strips. Each strip will yield 8 strips.
set aside 6 strips measuring 2" x 18" for Step 4 (Block C).
Cut 20 using Template C1 and 20 using Template C2.
Follow the instructions in the pattern for sewing the block
together, and repeat to make a total of 4 blocks.
Fabric 2 (Blue Quilt). For middle border, cut 5 strips mea-
suring 3" x WOF and set aside for Step 6. Cut and set aside
Step 5: Assemble the Quilt Center
6 strips measuring 2" x 18" for Step 4 (Block C). Cut 20
Sew three rows of three blocks, following the Small Quilt
using Template C1 and 20 using Template C2.
portion of the Quilt Assembly diagram.
Fabric 3 (Red Quilt). For middle border, cut 5 strips mea-
suring 3" x WOF and set aside for Step 6. Cut 5 squares Step 6: Add the Borders
using Template E. Cut 4 squares measuring 3" for Block C. Middle Border: Sew the five strips set aside in Step 2 together,
then cut into four equal lengths (approximately 53").
Fabric 3 (Blue Quilt). Cut 5 squares using Template E. Cut
4 squares measuring 3" for Block C. Add the borders to the quilt center following the instruc-
tions for a square quilt and Adding Multiple Borders in
Fabric 4. Using Template B and referring to the instructions Framing a Quilt the Jinny Beyer Way.
on page 1, cut 32 of Motif A for Block A and 8 of Motif B
for Block B.
Traditional Fussy Cutting Technique
If you choose to make your quilt using this optional tech-
Fabric 5. Because the small quilt is square (rather than rect-
nique described on page 6, make the following changes to
angular as with the larger quilt), from both the wide and nar-
Step 2:
row stripes, cut four pieces measuring the length of fabric for
• cut 40 F and 40 F-reversed (Fr) patches from Fabric 1
the borders. From the remaining wide stripes, cut a total of
• Cut 32 Motif A patches and 8 Motif B patches from Fabric 4
20 patches using Template D.

8
 Fabric Requirements - Large Quilt

Red Blue
Fabric 1
4¾ yards

0498-08 (P#111)* 1456-31*

Fabric 2
Red - 25/8 yards(includes binding)
Blue - 2¾ yards(includes middle border)

1454-03* 1454-01*
Fabric 3
Red - 1½ yards(includes middle border)
Blue - 1/3 yard(also suggested backing,
6 yards)
1456-03* 1456-01*

Fabric 4
5½ yards

1452-04* 1452-11*
Fabric 5
3½ yards

1453-04* 1453-11*

Fabric 6
Red - (suggested backing only, 6 yards)
Blue - 7/8 yard (binding)
1455-04* 1458-03*

Jinny Beyer has created a series of videos on design, color and quilting skills. Visit
www.jinnybeyer.com/videotips to see her demonstrate soft-edge piecing and how she frames a
quilt using her border print fabric, two of the techniques used in Renaissance Garden.

9
©2012, Jinny Beyer
Pattern Written by Elaine Kelly
 Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way
Jinny Beyer’s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which
coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners.
In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance is
provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across the
fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus an
additional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners.

For a video demonstration of this bordering technique, visit

www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips

Framing a Square Quilt

1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering
a motif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor
differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias
edges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a
measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt
from “ruffling” at the edges.)

2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of the Diagram 1: Mark the miter.
sides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print. Then carefully
move the triangle until the angled side touches the point where the top edge of
the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram 1.) Mark,
then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the quilt,
the seam allowance is already included.)

3. Carefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of the
strip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edge
of the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that the
design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motif
from the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at the
edges. Cut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the tri-
angle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.)

4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, mak- Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first.
ing sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.

5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. To
find the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the
short edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do the
same for each corner of your quilt.

6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to
the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each
side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning the border
to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider
than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, start-
ing and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from the inside
dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design elements on Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borders
both pieces. will have designs that “flow” around the corners.

1
©2010, Jinny Beyer
Framing a Rectangular Quilt
With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs will
automatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.

1. First, follow steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for the
short ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of the quilt
must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to
match, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exact
center of the quilt.

2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the border

print stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miter to
match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay the newly
cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning one mitered
edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilt on the
strip as in Diagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut it off ¼"
beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut one more
piece identical to it.

You also need two strips that

are the exact mirror images of
these pieces. Using one of the
strips you just cut, flip it over and lay it on a Diagram 4: Find and g
strip of border print, matching the fabric mark the center of the quilt
design exactly. (The two strips will be right on the border strip.
sides together.) Cut the miter and straight edges to
match the top piece. Using the newly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece.

3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these borders
to the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to a
rectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be a
seam at the center of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center will
mirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt.

Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangular

quilts have center seams.

Applying Multiple Borders

Jinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, she will
frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating fabric as
a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe from the border
print.

Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, when the
middle border is a fabric that doesn’t have to be matched at the corners, she
recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the second bor-
der to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border in the steps
above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after the first two bor-
ders have been completed and sewn to the quilt.

Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typically
sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. This allows her to
carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed on the border print
fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding. Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders

2
Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way ©2010, Jinny Beyer