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cheese 63

middle-class household, known as Le their large exposed surfaces inevitably


Ménagier de Paris, includes this formula develop rancid flavors from contact with
“To recognize good cheese”: air and plastic wrap. Exposure to light in the
dairy case also damages lipids and causes
Not at all white like Helen, off-flavors in as little as two days; in addi-
Nor weeping, like Magdalene. tion it bleaches the annatto in orange-dyed
Not Argus, but completely blind, cheeses, turning it pink. Pregrated cheese
And heavy, like a buffalo. has a tremendous surface area, and while it
Let it rebel against the thumb, is often carefully wrapped, it loses much of
And have an old moth-eaten coat. its aroma and its carbon dioxide, which also
Without eyes, without tears, not at contributes the impression of staleness.
all white,
Moth-eaten, rebellious, of good Cool, Not Cold If cheese must be kept for
weight. more than a few days, it’s usually easiest to
refrigerate it. Unfortunately, the ideal con-
But these rules wouldn’t work for young ditions for holding cheese—a humid
goat cheeses (white and coatless), Roque- 55–60ºF/12–15ºC, simply a continuation
fort (with its pockets of whey), Emmental of its ripening conditions—is warmer than
(eyefull and light), or Camembert (which most refrigerators, and cooler and moister
should give when thumbed). As always, than most rooms. Refrigeration essentially
the proof is in the tasting. puts cheese into suspended animation, so if
These days, the most important thing is you want an immature soft cheese to ripen
to understand that bulk supermarket further, you’ll need to keep it warmer.
cheeses are only pale (or dyed) imitations of Cheeses should never be served direct
their more flavorful, distinctive originals. from the refrigerator. At such low temper-
The way to find good cheeses is to buy atures the milk fat is congealed and as hard
from a specialist who loves and knows as refrigerated butter, the protein network
them, chooses the best and takes good care unnaturally stiff, the flavor molecules
of them, and offers samples for tasting. imprisoned, and the cheese will seem rub-
bery and flavorless. Room temperature is
Cut to Order Whenever possible, buy por- best, unless it’s so warm (above about
tions that are cut while you watch. Precut 80ºF/26ºC) that the milk fat will melt and
portions may be days or weeks old, and sweat out of the cheese.

Cheese Crystals

Cheeses usually have such a smooth, luscious texture, either from the beginning or as
a hard cheese melts in the mouth, that an occasional crunch comes as a surprise. In fact
a number of cheeses develop hard, salt-like crystals of various kinds. The white crys-
tals often visible against the blue mold of a Roquefort, or detectable in the rind of a
Camembert, are calcium phosphate, deposited because the Penicillium molds have
made the cheese less acid and calcium salts less soluble. In aged Cheddar there are often
crystals of calcium lactate, formed when ripening bacteria convert the usual form of
lactic acid into its less soluble mirror (“D”) image. In Parmesan, Gruyère, and aged
Gouda, the crystals may be calcium lactate or else tyrosine, an amino acid produced by
protein breakdown that has limited solubility in these low-moisture cheeses.

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