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Womens Notes

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Young women of medium height, l60–172 cm (5 ft 3 in–5 ft 71/2

in)
Size code 6 8 10 12 14 16

Bust 76 80 84 88 92 96

Waist 56 60 64 68 72 76

low waist (6 cm below waist) 68 72 76 80 84 88

Hips 82 86 90 94 98 102

back width 31.4 32.4 33.4 34.4 35.4 36.4

Chest 28.8 30 31.2 32.4 33.6 34.8

Shoulder 11.5 11.75 12 12.25 12.5 12.75

neck size 34 35 36 37 38 39

Dart 5.2 5.8 6.4 7 7.6 8.2

top arm 25.5 26.5 27.5 28.5 29.5 30.5

Wrist 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 17

Ankle 22.5 23 23.5 24 24.5 25

high ankle 19.5 20 20.5 21 21.5 22

nape to waist 39.8 40.2 40.6 41 41.4 41.8

front shoulder to waist 39.8 40.2 40.6 41 41.4 41.8

armscye depth 19.8 20.2 20.6 21 21.4 21.8

waist to knee 57 57.5 58 58.5 59 59.5

waist to hip 19.7 20 20.3 20.6 20.9 21.2

waist to floor 101 102 103 104 105 106

body rise 25.9 26.6 27.3 28 28.7 29.4

sleeve length 57 57.5 58 58.5 59 59.5

sleeve length (jersey) 53 53.5 54 54.5 55 55.5

Women of medium height, 160–172 cm (5 ft 3 in–5 ft 71/2


in)
Size code 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Bust 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122
Waist 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 94 100 106
low waist 70 74 78 82 86 90 94 98 104 110 116
Hips 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 117 122 127
back width 31.4 32.4 33.4 34.4 35.4 36.4 37.4 38.4 39.8 41.2 42.6
Chest 28.8 30 31.2 32.4 33.6 34.8 36 37.2 39 40.8 42.6
Shoulder 11.5 11.75 12 12.25 12.5 12.75 13 13.25 13.6 13.9 14.2
neck size 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42.4 43.8 45.2
Dart 5.2 5.8 6.4 7 7.6 8.2 8.8 9.4 10 10.6 11.2
top arm 24.8 26 27.2 28.4 29.6 30.8 32 33.2 35.2 37.2 39.2
Wrist 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 17 17.5 18 18.7 19.4 20.1
Ankle 22.5 23 23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.7 27.4 28.1
high ankle 19.5 20 20.5 21 21.5 22 22.5 23 23.7 24.4 25.1
nape to waist 39.8 40.2 40.6 41 41.4 41.8 42.2 42.6 43 43.4 43.8
front shoulder to waist 39.8 40.2 40.6 41 41.4 42.3 43.2 44.1 45 45.9 46.8
armscye depth 19.8 20.2 20.6 21 21.4 21.8 22.2 22.6 23.2 23.8 24.4
waist to knee 57 57.5 58 58.5 59 59.5 60 60.5 61 61.5 62
waist to hip 19.7 20 20.3 20.6 20.9 21.2 21.5 21.8 22.1 22.4 22.7
waist to floor 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111
body rise 25.9 26.6 27.3 28 28.7 29.4 30.1 30.8 31.8 32.8 33.8
sleeve length 57 57.5 58 58.5 59 59.5 60 60.25 60.5 60.75 61
sleeve length (jersey) 53 53.5 54 54.5 55 55.5 56 56.25 56.5 56.75 57
Extra measurements (garments)
cuff size shirts 20.5 21 21 21.5 21.5 22 22.5 23 23.5 24 24.5
cuff size, two-piece sleeve 13 13.25 13.5 13.75 14 14.25 14.5 14.75 15 15.25 15.5
trouser bottom width 20.5 21 21.5 22 22.5 23 23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5
jeans bottom width 18 18.5 18.5 19 19 19.5 19.5 20 20 21 21

A size 12 from the size chart on page 12 (for fashion garments) is used for this illustrated example.
bust 88 cm shoulder 12.25
cm
nape to waist 41 cm back width 34.4 cm
waist to hip 20.6 cm dart 7 cm
armscye depth 21 cm chest 32.4 cm
neck size 37 cm

Square down from 0; square halfway across the block.

1) 0–1  1.5 cm. basic back neck


2) 1–2 armscye depth +0.5 cm; square across.
3) 2–3  ½ bust+ 5 cm [i.e. for 88 cm bust: (88  2)+5  49].
4) Square up and down; mark this line the center
front line.
5) 3–4  0–2
6) Add an extra 0.5 cm for each size up above size
14. Example for size 20: 3–4  0–2 plus 1.5 cm.
7) 1–5 nape to waist (syce depth); square across
to 6.
8) 5–7  waist to hip ; square across to centre front
line.
9) Mark point 8, giving ½ hip +2.5cm ease.
Back
1) 0–9  1/5 neck size - 0.2 cm; draw back neck curve
1–9.
2) 1–10 1/5 armscye depth - 0.7 cm; square halfway
across the block.
3) 9–11 shoulder length + 1 cm; draw back shoulder line to
touch the line from 10.
4) 12 center of shoulder line.
5) 12–13 draw a dotted line 5 cm long and sloping inwards 1
cm.
6) Construct dart 1 cm wide with this line as center
7) 2–14 1/2 back width + 0.5 cm ease; square up to 15.
8) 14–16  1/2 14–15.
9) 17  ½ 2 -- 4;
square down with a dotted line to point 18 on waistline, and point 19 on the hipline.
Front
1) 4–20 1/5 neck size - 0.7 cm
2) 4–21 1/5 neck size -0.2 cm; draw in front neck curve 20–21.
3) 3–22 ½ chest measurement ½ width of Dart ; square up.
4) 3–23 ½ (3–22);
5) square down with a dotted line to point 24 on waistline and 25 on hipline.
6) 26 is the bust point 2.5 cm down from 23; draw a line joining 20–26.
7) 20–27 dart width ; draw a line joining 26–27.
8) 11–28 1.5 cm; square out approx. 10 cm to 29.
9) 27–30 draw a line from 27, shoulder length measurement, to touch the line from 28–29.
10) 22–31 one third the measurement 3–21.
11) 32 is midway between 14 and 22; square down with a dotted line to point 33 on the waistline
and point 34 on the hipline.
Draw armscye as shown on diagram, touching points 11, 16, 32, 31, 30; measurement of the curves:
sizes 6–8 from 14 2.25 cm from 22 1.75 cm
sizes 10–14 from 14 2.5 cm from 22 2 cm
sizes 16–20 from 14 3 cm from 22 2.5 cm
sizes 22–26 from 14 3.5 cm from 22 3 cm
Draw round the outer edge of the shape from 1–21 to complete the block. When shoulder seams are
joined it is essential that the neck and armscyes are smooth curves.

Easy fitting bodice block


A size 12 from the size chart on page 12 (for fashion garments) is used for this illustrated example.
bust 88 cm shoulder 12.25 cm
nape to waist 41 cm back width 34.4 cm
waist to hip 20.6 cm dart 7 cm
armscye depth 21 cm chest 32.4 cm
neck size 37 cm

Square down from 0; square halfway across the block.


0–1 1.5 cm.
1–2  armscye depth + 2.5 cm; square across.
2–3 half bust plus 7 cm [i.e. for 88 cm bust: (88  2)+7  51]. Square up and down; mark this line the centre
front line.
3–4  0–2
Add an extra 0.5 cm for each size up above size 14. Example for size 20: 3–4  0–2 plus 1.5 cm.
1–5 nape to waist t; square across to 6.
5–7 waist to hip ; square across to 8.

Back
0–9 1/5th neck size -- 0.2 cm; draw in back neck curve 1–9.

1–10 one fifth armscye depth measurement minus 1 cm; square halfway across the block.
9–11 shoulder length measurement plus 1 cm (0.5 cm ease and 0.5 cm extra length). Draw back
shoulder line to touch the line from 10.
2–12 half back width measurement plus 1 cm ease; square up to 13.
12–14 half the measurement 12–13.
Front
4–15 one fifth neck size minus 0.7 cm.
4–16 one fifth neck size minus 0.2 cm; draw in front neck curve 15–16.
15–17 half the standard dart measurement.
3–18 half chest measurement plus 1 cm, plus half the measurement 15–17; square up.
18–19 half the measurement 3–16 minus 2 cm.
3–20 half the measurement 3–18; join 15–20 and 17– 20 to form a dart.
11–21 1.5 cm; square out 15 cm to 22.
17–23 draw a line from 17, shoulder length measurement plus 0.5 cm, to touch the line from 21–22.
18–24 half the measurement 12–18; square down to point 25 on the waistline and 26 on the hipline.
Draw armscye as shown on diagram, touching points 11, 14, 24, 19, 23; measurement of the curves:
sizes 6–8 from 12 2.25 cm from 18 2 cm
sizes 10–14 from 12 2.5 cm from 18 2.25 cm
sizes 16–20 from 12 3 cm from 18 2.75 cm
sizes 22–26 from 12 3.5 cm from 18 3.25 cm

A size 12 from the size chart on page 12 (for fashion garments) is used for this illustrated example.

armscye measure the armscye sleeve length 58.5 cm

Draw a perpendicular line from the armscye line at 1 touching the front armscye.
1–2 one third armscye measurement (sizes 8–14 minus 0.5 cm, sizes 16–22 minus 0.3 cm); square across.
3 midway between 1 and 2; square across to 4 on the back scye line; mark balance point; continue line.
1–5 half the measurement 1–3; mark front balance point as shown. Mark adjacent armscye point 5A with
balance point.
6 front shoulder point.
5–7 the measurement of the curve 5A–6 plus 1 cm (plus
1.25 cm sizes 16–20; plus 1.5 cm sizes 22–26); join with a
line. Mark top sleeve balance point at 7.
8 back shoulder point.
7–9 the measurement of the curve 4–8 plus 1 cm (plus
1.25 cm sizes 16–20; plus 1.5 cm sizes 22–26); join with a
line. Mark back sleeve balance point at 9.
10 the underarm point on the side seam; mark with a
balance point.
5–11 the measurement of the curve 5A–10 less
0.3 cm; join with a line.
9–12 the measurement of the curve 4–10 less 0.3 cm; join
with a line.
Square down from 7.
7–13 sleeve length to wrist; square across both ways for
wrist line.
Square down from 11 and 12 to wrist line to marl points 14
and 15.

Draw in outline of sleeve head:


12–9 hollow the curve 0.75 cm.

9–7 raise the curve 1 cm.


7–5 raise the curve 2 cm at x (one third of distance 7–5).
5–11 hollow the curve 1 cm.

Draw in line of wrist:


14–13 lower the curve 1 cm.

13–15 hollow the curve 1 cm.


For slight sleeve shaping narrow sleeve at wrist 3–5 cm.
The elbow line is on the waistline of the block.

Note It is important that all ‘curved measurements’ are measured very accurately along the
curved line. The sleeve is based on the body blocks to ensure a perfect fit at the armscye.

Ease at the sleeve head


The ease in the sleeve head is drafted to give a full rounded appearance to the sleeve head. For a
flatter insertion reduce the ease allowance in the draft; see notes 5–7 and 7–9.

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