1.

Ease the garment comfortable around the armhole, neckline and bodice

2. Grain the garment cut in the lengthwise grain

3. Line the structural lines like dart, pocket, pleats, collar side seam, armhole,
neckline and hemline properly made

4. Balance the parts of the garment equally made with equilibrium. Are the collar tips the
same? How about the pockets? The sleeves

5. Set the parts properly attached like the sleeves, the collar, the waistband and
pockets

 Pinning – fastening particles together using pins

 Snagged – seized quickly
 Suspended – stopped temporarily
 Pucker – fold wrinkle
 Placket - a finished opening in a garment
 Interfacing -fabric used to give support and body to garment areas such as buttons,
buttonholes, collars, cuffs and lapels.
 Staystitch -stitch through a single thickness of fabric in the seam allowance 1/16 -1/8 inch
from the seam line to prevent the stretching of garment bias edges.
 Topstitch -to stitch on the top an even distance from a seam edge or fold. Stitching shows
on the right side of the garment.
 Snip - to cut with a quick stroke using
 Alter - to make changes on drafted or completed garment so that it corresponds to body
measurement
 Crease -a folded line pressed into a material
 Stride -to set with leg on each side of something
 Sagging -to sink or bend downwards and away from usual position
 Closure - article that is used to close an opening, like buttons, snapper and zipper
 Glide - to move along smoothly, evenly and easily on a surface
 Seat - hips
 Grain - the lengthwise or crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric area
 Casual Apparel - an informal clothing worn for specific use
 Finishing - the final set of operations and the process in sewing the garment
 Hem - a finished edge made on a garment.
 Touches – modifications made by applying fine details on finished garments.
 Tack - a fastening in needlework and a temporary stitch
 Trim – to make neat by cutting away parts
 Clip – to trim or cut with scissors or shears
 Excess – the part that is too much
 Snip – to cut with a quick stroke with a pair of scissors
 Damp –slightly wet
 Lint –the soft down of raveled or scraped linen
 Pile – end of yarns extending above the surface of the fabric
 Lapel – the part of the front of a coat attached to the collar which is folded up
 Setting – substance added to the fabric to improve its appearance and add to the fabric
 Accent – a distinctive emphasis on a dress
 Fasteners - devices used to close the openings of garments and facilitate their wearing.
 Trimming – any ornamental addition to the garment. It is also used to enhance or add beauty to
the garment.
 Wringing – to wrist or squeeze the cloth with force
 Grainlines – the direction of fabric threads
 Wrinkle – crease in clothes

KEY POINTS IN PREPARING CUT PARTS

1. Use both hands to anchor work flat on the table.

2. Separate the big units from the small units.
3. Place the cloth parts flat on the table.
 4. Label the units to avoid confusion when sewing.
5. To get easily the garment parts to be sewed first, place them at the right side of the sewing
machine table.

PINNING A GARMENT TOGETHER

Pinning

When pinning, pins are placed perpendicular to the edge of a fabric, pattern to the edges of any kind
of seam preparatory to basting or stitching, to the folded edge of a dart, pleat, tuck, or hem, and to seams
fitted right side out. In this way the two layers are kept smoothly.If you can baste or stitch over the pins
in a straight line, and the pins are easily removed. If pins are placed parallel to these edges. The edges
pucker unevenly.
Pins are placed parallel to seams fitted to wrong side out and to circumference seams not turned
under for the first fitting so as to establish new lines in fitting and cutting.

Method of Inserting Pins

1. For matching ordinary seams, hold the work up and insert pins at right angles on the seam lines
of both layers.
2. for lapped seams, pleats and other flat work on the table, use the fingers of both hands spread to
serve as weight to push up a little fold while the right hand pushes the pin through. Smooth out
the work before lifting the hands entirely away, as in basting.

PRESSING TECHNIQUES

Pressing is important at all stages of sewing to shape and set stitched lines. Steam iron and
ironing board are essential.

The fabric should be free of folds and wrinkles before beginning to work. If the lengthwise fold
interfered with the placing of the warp and woof threads in proper position, then it should be removed. No
one is able to cut or construct a garment successfully if the material is not smooth. Remember, never
press the material with the thread in a diagonal or in less direction. The crosswise of filling threads must
be checked for their right angle position to the lengthwise or warp threads.

FABRIC TYPES AND CARE GUIDE IN PRESSING

Acrylic - a man- made fine soft and luxurious fabric with the
bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic,
dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body
 If ironing is required, use moderately warm iron.
Cotton - a natural fiber from the cotton plant’s seed pod.
 A higher heat setting is needed in the dryer. (Cotton takes longer to dry than
less absorbent fibers)
 Can be ironed with a hot iron, and does not scorch easily.

Linen - a natural fiber from flax, a blast fiber taken from the
stalk of the plant. Hemp, Ramie and Jute are similar to linen but the plants are
processed slightly different
 Linen fabrics may need frequent pressing, unless treated for crease
resistance

Polyester - a strong man-made fiber that is resistant to crease

and thus keep it shape
 If ironing is needed, use a moderately warm iron.

Rayon - it is from cellulose, it has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural

cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities
and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics
 Press the article while damp on the wrong side with the iron at a moderate
setting.

Silk - a natural fiber from the cocoon of the silkworm

  If ironing is required, use a moderately warm iron.

Spandex - a man made elastic type fiber that can be stretched

many times its length and then spring back to the original length

 If ironing is required, iron rapidly and don’t leave the iron in one place too
long.
 Use a low temperature setting on the iron.

Fine Points:

1. Have a pin cushion to fit your wrist or pin on your dress.

2. Don’t mix needles, especially threaded ones, with your pins.
3. Don’t put pins in your mouth.
4. Pointing a pin away from you is awkward; toward you, is graceful and efficient.
5. Patterns are pinned to cloth first along grain line, then near the edges.
6. Remove pins after basting and stick them in your handy cushion rather than leaving them on the
machine or table.
7. If pins are used in place of basting, with heads up, they will be just right to pull out with your
right hand, when you stitch at the machine with the bulk at the left of the presser foot. Pull out
each pin just before it reaches the presser foot. Some of the newer machines have a flexible
presser foot which can stitch over pins. But the heads must be pulled far enough to the right so
as not to strike the feed of the presser foot, or they will blunt the needle.
8. Buy fine sharp pins. Discard dirty, dull, bent pins – they will ruin your material.
9. On fine fabrics, use needles or weights (bean bags) for holding the pattern down. Tiny safety pins
are good markers on nets, laces, and other loose materials which shed pins quickly; cellophane
tape and paper clips on plastics. Satins are not snagged if pins are parallel with the float.
10. Pressing over pins makes marks difficult to remove.
11. Busy workers learn to use more pins and less basting.
12. Use two pins, one crossed over the other, to mark exact point for snap, button or loop.
When the garment is cut, each piece is a unit As work progresses, two or more pieces are combined to
form a new unit.
This is called unit method of construction. It is an organized way of assembling a garment.

There are four units in bodice pattern:

1. front
2. back
3. sleeves
4. collar

How does a garment form or combine?

1. Complete all markings

2. Do stay stitching
3. Sew darts
4. Finish plackets

It is a great advantage on the part of the dressmaker or tailor to know how parts of the garments are
joined together systematically, putting the pieces part by part. Here are the advantages of unit method
construction.

1. It takes less time to construct the garment.

2. Parts of the garments which go together can be easily found because they are kept
together in unit.
3. Each section of the garment is handled less.
4. Transferred marks may be checked carefully and sewing may be completed on each
piece as the pattern is removed.
5. Short period of time may be used to advantage by working on a
simple unit.
Kinds of Seam Finishes

The following seam finishes are commonly used in tailoring:

Plain seam. This seam is often used for

dresses, collar, linings, blouse, and skirt
made from fabric that do not ravel. The two
edges of the fabric are simply pinned or
basted together and stitched.

French Seam. This is used on a fabrics on

which seam edges would show unattractively.
This seam is a seam within a seam.

Overcasted Open Seam. To prevent

raveling in dress fabrics such as rayon
and silk, the seam should be overcasted
either with both edges together or
separately.

Zigzag open seam. When only a zigzagger is

available, this seam finish for open seam is
used. However, edges are over-edged when
there is an over edging machine.

Lapped Seam. This is made on the right side

and is excellent for joining yokes when the
stitching is used as a decorative finish.

Preparing Parts for Sewing

Each cut piece of material needs to be prepared carefully. You can start
with the smaller details of the garment to be sewn. The suggested preparations
below can be applied in your project.

For Pocket : Pocket is a finished pouch in a garment used to

carry small items only.

 Fold and stitch upper edge for about ⅛ inch.

 Fold hem allowance to right side.
 Stitch around pocket close to seam line.
  Trim seam and corners, notch covered seam
allowances.
 Turn hem and top stitch
 Fold and press seam allowances in place

For Flap : Flap serves as cover for patch pocket, usually

applied with appropriate fastener like button. It is a piece of
fabric with variety of shapes to adapt depending on what is
desired by client.

 Apply facing to flap

 Stitch facing to flap right sides together. Leave
straight edge open
 Trim seam and corners, notch out curves
 Trim flap and press
 Baste 5/8” (1.5 cm) from raw edge
 Stitch close to finished edges
 Make buttonhole in flap

For Collar: It is an article stitched to the neckline of the

garment

 Apply interfacing to color

 Place right side together, stitch facing to collar,
leaving neck edge open
 Trim seams and corners. Clip curve edge.
 Turn collar; press

For Front and Back Shirt/Blouse

 Stay stitch from neck edge

 Stay stitch back neck edge

Front Facing

 Apply “fusible” to facing.

 Edge finish long inside edge.
 Press under 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm on shoulder edge.
 Trim to ¼ inch or 0.6 cm.
 Clip neck edge at curves.

Sub Assembly

In this stage, the prepared units of construction will be ready to attach or

join in place.
 Pin the pocket to front along pocket line. Stitch close to side and lower
edge. Reinforce upper corners.
  Pin flap to front. Baste to flap line and stitch. Stitch again below first
stitching. Trim raw edge close to stitching. Press flap down. Stitch close
to upper edge of flap.

Main Assembly

Main assembly involves joining of big units which require careful stitching,
for it finally forms the garment.

Shoulders

 Join shoulder seams of front and back shirt or blouse (start at

neck edge).
 Trim corners and edge finish seam allowances.
 Press seam open.

Attach Collar

 On outside, pin collar (facing side) to the neck edge matching

center back.
 Baste both collar and facing sections to front neck edge.
 Baste only the collar facing, section to remaining neck edge.

Facings

 With right sides together, pin facing to the front.

 Baste the neck edge.
 Clip edge through all thickness.
 Stitch front edge and entire neck edge as basted (do not stitch in
the free edge of the collar).
 Trim seam and corners, clip curves.
 Trim facing to inside, turning back neck seam toward collar inside
and press.
 Press under 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm on raw edge of collar. Trim to ¼
inch or 0.6 cm.
 Slip stitch pressed edge of collar over neck seam, matching center
back.
 Tack facing to shoulder seam.

STEPS IN SEWING A POLO SHIRT

1. Zigzag all the raw edges.

2. Attach the finished pocket (left side only).

3. Insert and sew the interfacing (8’) on the extended facing of the front polo
shirt near the neckline downward.

4. Place the back bodice in between the yokes and sew at least ¼ inch on the
wrong side.

5. Right side together place front bodice

between the yokes and stitch on the wrong
side.

1. Pull out the front bodice and check if it is

neatly done.
7. Do the same on the other side.

8. Attach the finished sleeves. Be sure that the re-cut portion is attached to the
front armhole starting from the notch of the yoke to the sleeve cap down the
armpit.

9. Continue stitching the back portion of the sleeve starting from the notches
going down to the armpit.
10. Check the sleeve. If smoothly done, sew the other sleeve.

11. Re-cut the neckline to fit the size of collar.

12. Prepare and attach the finished collar.

13. Sew the side bodice with the plain seam up to the hem of the sleeve.
14. Fold the hem of the polo shirt.

15. Mark the buttonholes starting from the stand collar 3 ½ inches down and 3
inches thereafter with an approximate of five (5) buttons down.

16. Stitch the buttonholes and attach the buttons.

Procedure in Assembling the Long Pants

1. Overedge the raw edges of the front and back legs.

2. Sew the back darts.
 Fold the center of the dart lines, thread baste or pin baste and dart, and
open if the material is thick.

3. Assemble the back pocket (refer to construction of back pocket on

previous pages)
4. Assemble the continental side pocket (see procedure on the construction
of continental side pocket)
5. Prepare the left and right fly placket.

Right placket

5.1.1 Prepare the right fly placket and facing.

5.1.2 Fold the placket, facing 3.4” inward.

5.1.3 Stitch the right zipper onto the right placket.

5.1.4 Attach the facing on the wrong side of the right
placket and stitch 1/8” from the edge.

5.1.5 Place the right placket on top of the right side of the
right leg of the pants and stitch them
together ¼” from the side. Start from
the waist down to snip the placket.

5.1.6 Press the facing on the wrong side of the

stitch along the placket seam, with the
placket hold placed in-between the
placket facing the pants.

5.1.7 Stitch around the fly placket to flatten.

Placket

5.2.1 Prepare the left fly placket and the facing.

5.2.2.Place the facing on top of the right side of the
left fly and stitch them together 1/8” from
the edge. Turn inward and stitch again on
top of the edge.

5.2.3 Place the left fly on the top of the right side
of the left leg of the pants. Stitch
1/4” from the edge to the
pocket snip.

5.2.4 Turn the left fly on the other side and stitch
the joint to flatten.

5.2.5 Separate the left zipper from the right by

unlocking the zipper. Keep this slider.

Place the left zipper at the left of the

facing forward; the distance of the
 zipper from the upper joint is 1/2” and the lower joint near the placket
snip, 3/8”. Make 2 rows of stitches.

6. Join the side seams

6.1 Make a snip on the pocket bag and pocket

spacing ½” from the lower part of the pocket
mouth. Do not include the pants.

6.2 With the right sides of both the front and

back pants facing together, match the
edges of the front pants with the
seam line of the side edges of the
back pants. Match the construction
marks of seats, thighs, knees, and
bottoms of the front and back pants. Pin
and baste.

6.3 Stitch together the front and back pants ¼” from the
sides of the front pants. Make double stitching
from the waist down to the knee.

6.4 Fold the edges of the front pocket bag and fit into the
seam allowance of the back pants and stitch them
together. Press side seams open.
7. Attaching the waistband
7.1 Join the right sides of the waistband and the
pants together at the waist. Extend the
waistband ½” from the left and right plackets.

7.2 When joining the waistband of the left pants,

spread open the left fly and stitch together at
the waistline.

7.3 Bring up the waistband. Fold the extension

inward and stitch ¼” from fold.

8. Prepare and attach the watch pocket (see

procedure on construction of watch pocket).

9. Sew on the waistband facing (right leg)

9.1 Place the waistband facing the top of the

waistband with both right sides facing
together and stitch them together ¼”.

9.2 Open the facing and waistband seam to

understitch the seam at waistband.
 9.3 Mark the width of the waistband of both the left and
right pants.

9.4 Attach the hook and eye at the center of the

waistband. Attach a small piece of coco under the
waistband to strengthen the attachment of
hook and eye.

9.5 Fold the waistband backward. Close the corner of

the waistband at the placket either
diagonally or rounded. Trim the allowance
according to the shape.

9.6 Turn the facing inward. Press the waistband

mark to obtain its width. Baste diagonally for
the neat and flat waistband.

9.7 Close the waistband facing the pants together by

stitching along the waist seam. Start stitching
from the upper corner of the right waistband up
to the end of the back pants.

10. Sew on the waistband facing (left leg)

10.1 Fold the facing horizontally at the

middle.

10.2 Place the waistband facing on the top of

the waistband. Place one of the folded
facings along the placket seam of the front
pants. Mark the part of facing that is
along the side seam of the pants. Sew a
 small dart in this part. Start sewing from the open edge of the facing,
going toward the fold.

10.3 Place the facing back on the top of the left

waistband with the open end aligned with
the placket seam and the dart with the
side seam. Stitch together the facing and
the waistband ¼” from the edges of the
waistband.

10.4 Bring up the facing and turn the seam allowance

toward the waistband. Undertstitch the seam
allowance close to the seam.

10.5 Measure the width of the waistband,

starting from the waist seam upward
usually 1 ½” and mark horizontally on
the waistband. Fold waistband along
this mark after the hook is attached.

10.6 Attach the hook at the left end of the waistband,

3/8” away from the seam of the fly and the
pants. Reinforce with the piece of coco under
the hook before the lock is attached.

10.7 Turn the fly and waistband outward and stitch

the upper waistband along the mark at the
waistband.

10.8 Turn the placket inward and baste the

waistband diagonally.
10.9 Close the placket by stitching it in place,
starting from the waist seam and
extending the stitches down the snip.
Closing stitches are about 1 1/2” wide
and the pocket hold is sewn together
with the placket facing.

11. Joining the inseams of the pants

11.1 With the right side of both the front and back pants
facing together, place the edges of the front pants
parallel to the back pants construction mark. Match
the seat, thigh, knees and bottom stitch them together
¼” from the edge of the front pants.

11.2 The same procedure is done with the other pants leg.

12. Joining the right and left legs of the pants

12.1 Turn out right leg of the pants.

12.2 With the left leg on the right side, insert the left fly
inside the right leg. Match the clothes together and
the waistband together on the front and back.
Check ½ of the waist measurement starting from
the hook up to the back waistband. Mark this and
match the snips together.

12.3 Stitch the crotches together, starting from

the back waistband up to the placket snip.
Double stitch the joint to reinforce.
12.4 Place the zipper slider back. Check the left and right waistbands are even
at the back. Apply closing stitches at the bottom of the zipper.

12.5 Sew together the left and right fly plackets by hand.

12.6 Fold the back seam allowances inward and baste

diagonally or overcast the fold.

12.7 Stitch the back waistband seam allowances in

place onto the waistband facing.

12.8 Apply the hand bar tacks at the snip of the fly
plackets.

13. Preparing and attaching the belt carriers.

13.1 Prepare the material for 6 belt

carriers with an 18” length and 12”
width.

13.2 Fold the edges on both sides

horizontally.

13.3 Fold in the carrier horizontally

the folded edges matching
together. Stitch together close to
the edges.

13.4 Topstitch on the folded edge.

13.5 Divide into six belt carriers
or 3” per belt carriers.

13.6 Mark the locations of the belt carriers on the waistband; the front and
back carriers must be along the crease lines and the other 2 along the
outside seams.

13.7 Place the belt carrier ¼” away from the top

to bottom of the waistband stitch.

18.8 Bring up the belt carrier to cover the first

stitches and stitch again on the top ¼”
from the previous stitches.

13.9 Bring down the belt carrier and stitch the lower
end onto the waistband.

13.10 Lower the belt carrier a little cover the

previous stitches and stitch on top ¼” from
the sea.
13.11 Follow the same procedure with the rest of the
belt carriers.

14. Finishing the bottom hem.

14.1 Fold the edges ¼” and stitch 1/8” away from the
fold.
14.2 Fold along the mark for seam allowance and
baste diagonally.

14.3 Hem the button fold with catch stitch or blind

hemming.

Plackets
Plackets are used at waistlines, necklines, wrists, and other parts of
clothing which should fit well. They should be strong, easy to fasten, and long
enough for convenience in dressing. Plackets should not be bulky and
stretched.
The following are the different kinds of plackets and the steps in making
them:
Zipper Placket
1. Stitch through the zipper tape and single seam the allowance
about 1/6 inch (.15cm) from the tooth or coil.
2. Close the zipper and turn it face upward, away from the garment.
Shift the position of the zipper foot to the left of the needle.
3. Smooth garment away from the zipper to form a fold lin the seam
allowance. Stitch fold 1/16 inch (.15 cm.) from the zipper tape.
4. Spread garment so that the placket area lies flat; turn the zipper
tape face downward over the other seam allowance.
5. Turn the garment to its right side, keeping the face of the zipper
against the seam allowance.
6. Keeping the garment right side up, shape the curve of the seam
over with finger and starting at the lower end of the zipper, pin or
baste in place.
7. Shift the position of the zipper foot to the right side of the needle.
Start at the end of the zipper just beyond the zipper stop, and
stitch from the seam line across the end for about 3/8 or ½ inch
(0.95 cm. or 1.27 cm.). Without lifting the needle, raise the presser
foot and pivot the garment to form a square corner.
8. Remove hand basting, pull thread to the inside, and fasten them
securely. Remove machine basting and press.

Assembling the Parts of a Pair of Short Pants

Forepart and buttoncatch outline Button catch pattern

Fabric for buttoncatch Buttoncatch lining outline

Finger press underside out, Place buttoncatch over lining

stitch from A to B face up. and seam ¼ inch from C to D.
The distance from E to D is 2 inches.

Left lining out, place buttoncatch Flatten down buttoncatch.

underline up over forepart. Stitch
from F to G.
 Forepart and fly outline Fly pattern

Fly fabric same size as

fly pattern Fly
lining cut material, with

3/8 inch (.95 cm.) added at the front; ¼ inch

(0.64 cm.) from back of lining pattern.

Fly placed over lining stitch Fly edge inverted and

from A to B. pressed down

Fly edge stitch from C to D Fly lining folded stitch from Eto F
Fly lining inverted and pressed flat Stitching crotch and center
back seam of the pair of athletic short
pants

Characteristics of a well-fitted Polo Shirt

1. The neckline is properly done and laid flat over the shoulder
2. The shoulder is flat and the armhole is comfortable for movement.
3. Pleats are correctly sewn.
4. Seams are straight.
5. The body part is comfortable.
6. Closures are properly attached.

Characteristics of a Well-made Collar

1. Edges are properly sewn.

2. Curves are smoothly done.
3. Pointed edges are neatly finished and have the same size and shape.
4. Collar is smoothly finished.

Characteristics of a Finished Sleeve

1. The sleeve is well rounded over the sleeve cap.

2. The sleeve is comfortable at the armhole.
3. Freedom of movement is felt.

Casual apparel is an informal wear for men, both young and old. The
construction techniques used in making men’s apparel are variations of
dressmaking methods and it depends on the type of garment constructed and
the fabric selected for the design.

Men and boys apparel applied with Finishing Touches:

 polo shirt - an informal washable shirt with short sleeves

 polo jacket - 2 inches shorter than the ordinary polo shirt with
buttons or garter to fit the hips
 polo barong - possesses 2 pockets placed on the lower part of the
garment
 Barong Tagalog - has long sleeves and used by men during formal
gathering. It is considered men’s national attire
  executive polo with collar band - has one pocket and worn with a
necktie or coat
 short pants - an item of clothing for most grade school boys and other
men. It is made with or without buttons and with a
waistband and suspenders
 long pants - a lower garment with two separate leg sections that
measures the length from waist to ankle

Finishing Touches

One of the important details of a constructed garment is the inclusion of

finishing touches.
Finishing touches are fine and hand-finished details are required at specific
points on a garment as reinforcement.

The following are final touches:

1. French tacks
They are like fine cords, and usually link a free-hanging to the
main hem to prevent the hem from swiveling around or riding up. The
tacks are hand sewn between the two hems on the inside so that they
won’t be visible.

There are several types of French tacks:

a. blanket – stitch tack
b. thread chain tack - is made by hand from chain of loops.
c. machine chain tack - uses machine straight stitch.

2. Bar tacks
These short, straight rows of reinforcing stitches are used to
strengthen points of strain on a garment, and can be made by hand
or machine. Bar tacks are used across two adjoining areas of fabric
that may be strained or split in.

There are two types of bar tacks:

1. Hand stitched bar tacks
2. Machine bar tacks

3. Arrowheads
These small triangular tacks are worked by hand or machine
across a seam to strengthen it at a point of potential strain. (For
example at the top of pleats with an underlay on a tight-fitting
skirt). It is best to use a matching color thread while a thick
thread like buttonhole twist can be effective for a hand stitched
arrowhead.
Kinds of Hemming Stitches

1. Vertical hemstitch
A stitch that works from right to left.
It is used for stitching along the
inside edges of collars and cuffs.

2. Slanting Hemstitch
This stitch is less stable than vertical
hemstitch but is quicker to work.
Form the stitches in the same way as
vertical hemstitch.

3. Herringbone Stitch
This is used for joining the edges of
facing or interfacing to the inside of
garment.

4. Catch stitch or Blind Hemming

Stitch
It is done under an edge or through a
folded edge. It can be used when
hemming heavy fabrics or fabrics that
stitch to prevent a ridge from showing
on the right side of the garment.

5. Slipstitch
This stitch is used to attach a folded
edge to another fabric layer.

6. Blind Herringbone Stitch

It works like hemming stitch from left
to right of the garment, but just fold
the hem edge back. Work the
herringbone stitches between the
inside of the garment hem and the
underneath fabric.

7. Buttonhole stitch
 It applies a neat finish for hooks, eyes, buttons and snap fastening.

Worked Buttonholes
Buttons and buttonholes are decorative in addition to the purpose.
Accuracy is necessary when marking your fabric if the buttons and
buttonholes are to be placed. Hand worked buttonholes are also done after
the garment is finished.

How to Make a Handworked Buttonhole

a. Mark the position of the buttonhole indicating its length.

b. Using small stitches, stitch about 1/16 inch from the mark.
c. Starting at the center, slash buttonhole on center mark to ends. Overcast
the edges.
d. Work the buttonhole stitch over the edges, working from right to left.

1. Start at the end and insert needle into slit bringing it out below
stitching. Bring thread from the needle eye around and under needle
point from right to left.
2. Draw needle up to form a purl on the edge. Continue placing stitches
close together so purls will cover edge.
3. At end towards garments edge, form a fan as shown, keeping the
center stitch of the fan in line with the cut.

e. Make a bar on both ends taking several stitches over the threads and
through the garments cloth.

Fasteners
for Men’s
Apparel
 The main purpose in concealing garment closing is to keep the closing
flat and small. Closing is used in shirts and pants.
Fasteners are devices used to close the opening of garments and facilitate
their wearing.

Suitable Fasteners for Men’s Garments

Buttons

1. Two-hole button - a flat button with two stitching holes

2. Four-hole button - a tiny flat button that is usually attached with
the thread shank
3. Fabric cover button - made from a kit or made to order. This button matches
the garment and has a shank button
4. Shank button – it is made from plastic, bone or metals. This button has a
shank at the back.
5. Ball button –an orb shaped and it has stitching hole pierced or molded
across the back
6. Dome button – a half ball button with a shank at the back and suitable for
use with thick and heavy fabric
7. Rivet button – a non-sewn button. This is attached by a rivet inserted to the
fabric from the wrong side
8. Novelty button – may be an individual shape, or one of set or range and
maybe flat but often has a shank

Hook and eye – used to hold lapped ends of waistband.

Snap fasteners – used on flat surfaces where there is a little

strain. These are commonly used in baby
dresses.
Zippers – made with synthetic coils or with a metal
teeth
1. chain zipper – a medium weight zip with metal or plastic teeth
2. coil zipper - a synthetic coils or polyester or nylon attached to woven tape
3. concealed zipper – zipper has teeth that are concealed on the underside
4. open-ended zipper – chain zipper separate at the base into two halves

Hem and hem allowances

One of the most important technique in sewing lies on the finishing of

edges. The first and most widely used finish for an edge is the hem.

There are four steps in making a hem of a polo shirt:

1. Mark the hem line .Mark the desired length

with the tape measure using tailor’s chalk or
pins.
2. Fold on hem line. Turn hem to wrong side
along marked line, matching the seam
lines.

3. Marking hem depth. Turn wrong side out

on a flat surface so that you can work from
the hem side. Set the hem gauge for the
desired hem depth plus ½ inch for
finishing.

4. Finishing a hem. Insert pin at right angle to

the hem edge, matching seam lines. Hand-
finished with an inside blind-hemming
stitch. Machine stitching along hem edge is
also satisfactory.

Aside from the sewing machine, there are other tools that you will need in
making your sewing activities easier. These tools are classified in to four:
measuring devices, cutting devices, marking devices and sewing devices.
Scissors are cutting devices used for cutting threads, trimming and for
slashing. This proves the importance of scissors.

 Trimming Tools

Trimming means cutting away some of the seam’s allowance.

A quality sewn garment means an accomplished project that you can be

proud of. After all construction processes has been done, assuring quality can
be best achieved by checking of the parts of the garments to be trimmed. In
order to succeed in this task you must be familiar with the different tools used
in finished garments. Look at the illustration below and explain their
differences.

The cutting tools for trimming

1. Thread clipper – is used for snipping threads

2. Trimming scissors – five to six inch long which
are for clipping threads

Trimming Techniques for Men’s Apparel

Having one of these tools at hand, you can now start the task. So let’s get
started. Be sure that it is sharp and can really help you in trimming threads.

Techniques in Trimming Excess Threads in a Polo Shirt:

1. Reverse the polo shirt to the wrong side.

2. Check for hanging threads on garment parts.
3. Cut excess thread from top to bottom.
a. collar
b. shoulder seam
c. paddings
d. armhole seams
e. sleeve hems
f. bottom hem
4. Reverse the polo shirt right out and trim excess threads on:
a. front placket
b. buttonholes
c. buttons
d. pockets
e. bottom hem
Procedure in Trimming Excess Threads in the Long Pants:

1. Reverse pants wrong side out.

2. Check for hanging threads.
3. Trim excess threads from top to bottom.
a. waistband
b. hook and eye
c. placket
d. zipper attachment
e. inseams
f. out seams
g. bottom hem
4. Reverse pants right side out.
a. waistband
b. zipper placket
c. side seams
d. pocket mount
e. bottom hem

Pressing
 Good pressing is essential in good construction. Pressing equipment if
used correctly, aids in achieving flat seams, smoothly the edges and
sharpening the creases.

Pressing tools are essential for every pressing or ironing job. It is the
process of removing creases and wrinkles to a finished garment.
The following are the pressing tools and aids:
1. Electric iron
It has a heat control mechanism which maintains the correct
temperature for each fabric. Irons are available with aluminum or stainless
steel soleplates. The soleplates of the iron should be kept smooth and clean.

2. Steam iron
This is convenient for pressing many garments. It is either dry or with
water. The iron will last longer and will give better service if only distilled
water is used and if it is always emptied before storing. The steam iron
should never be stored on its soleplate because moisture from the iron
causes corrosion.

3. Ironing board
An ironing board should be smooth and well padded. It should stand
firmly at the correct height for efficient work. It is an adjustable board or leg
slides to adjust height for a standing and sitting positions.

4. Pressing cloth
This is a piece of fabric used when applying more heat than you
usually would when ironing a fabric. Fabric used for pressing cloth should
be white or colorfast and washed freely.

5. Point presser
This is a narrow wooden board that tapers to a point at one end. It
provides a small, hand pressing surface for enclosed seams of shaped pieces
such as collars, cuffs and lapels.

6. Pounding block
It is used to pound ceases into heavy fabric used if moisture is needed
for better results.

7. Sleeve board
This is a small ironing board shaped and padded like a large one. The
narrow board is used for pressing seams and narrow garment section and
the wide board is used for long and straight seam.

8. Seam roll
This is helpful in pressing curves and seams that are in a tube area
without creasing another area of the garments.

9. Needle board
It is used beneath the pile of velvet and corduroy. It prevents the pile
from becoming matted during pressing.

10. Pressing cushion

This is used when pressing darts and curve seam. The two types of
pressing cushion are pressing mitt and tailor’s hem.