Basic Consumption

Knit Fabric Consumption

1. Consumption for T-Shirt:

Suppose, one of the buyer has provided you the following measurement chart of a basic T-Shirt
by mentioning the order quantity and fabric GSM. (Where Fabric is 100% cotton single jersey
and fabric GSM is 160 and order quantity is 10000pcs). Then calculate the fabric consumption
for this order.

Solution:

Here, we will follow the measurement chart for XL size.

 Fabric GSM- 160,

 Total order quantity- 10000
 Body length or shirt length- 79cm
 Sleeve length- 43cm
 ½ Chest width- 61cm

Now, all the measurements are applied on the following formula-

Fabric consumption per dozen, (All measurement in cm),

= 3.45 + 10% (in kg)

= 3.795 kg per dozen. So, fabric needed for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) garments is 3162.5kg.

2. Consumption for Knit Trouser

Fabric which is required to produce a trouser/pant is called consumption of trouser/pant. How much
fabric is needed to produce trouser, we can determine it through marker planning or a suitable
mathematical expression.

Suppose,

One of Trouser’s Front rise (12.5+1) inch,

Back rise (15.5+1) inch,
Thai (Dia) (12+0.5) inch,
In-seam (27+1) inch
and G.S.M 180.

Now determine the fabric consumption for the basic Trouser.

Solution:

Here, Front rise = (12.5+1) inch,

Back rise = (15.5+1) inch
Thai (Dia) = (12+0.5) inch
In-seam = (26.5+1) inch
G.S.M = 180
 A basic Trouser and his measurement

According to formula–

Fabric length = [(Front rise + Back rise) / 2 ]+ length Inseam

= [(13.50 + 16.50) / 2] + 27.50
= 30/2 + 27.50
= 15 + 27.50
= 42.50 inch

Fabric width = Thai×4

= 12.50×4
= 50 inch

Total Fabric consumption = (180*50*42.50)/(1000*1550) kg

= 382500/1550000 kg
= 0.246774 kg

The amount of fabric is just for 1 piece. Generally 12 pieces are calculated with one.
Fabric consumption for 1 Dozen Trouser = 12×0.246774kgs
= 2.961 kgs

So, Fabric consumption for 1 Dozen 2 kgs and 961 gms.

Woven Fabric Consumption

1. Fabric Consumption for Basic Shirt:

Dress Shirt
For evaluating Fabric consumption of a dress shirt at first we have to know about the basic
parts of a dress shirt.

Basic parts of dress shirt:

 Main body
 Yoke
 Sleeve
 Collar
 Cuff
 Pocket
 Placket Box
 Top center

Anatomy of a shirt front

Suppose,
The buyer forwards a “woven long sleeve shirt” item order (10000pcs) to you with the following
specification.

Follow the below measurement chart.

Now, find the required fabric consumption for the order.

Solution:
Fabric consumption method for the above order will be discussed in the below in part by part.

Let,
Fabric width- 55”
Wastage-10%

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 20.31yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………….. (1)

So, fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest) is 20.31yds per dozen.
(Note: 2.54 used to convert into inch from cm and 36 used to convert into yds from inch).

2. Fabric consumption for the Sleeve:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 17.64yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………… (2)

So, fabric consumption for the sleeve is 17.64yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Collar:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 1.68yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………… (3)

So, fabric consumption for the Collar is 1.68yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Cuff:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 0.344yds per dozen…………………………………………………………………… … (4)

So, fabric consumption for the Cuff is 0.344yds per dozen.

5. Fabric consumption for the Collar Band:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 0.63yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………………. (5)

So, fabric consumption for the Collar Band is 0.63yds per dozen.

6. Fabric consumption for the Pocket:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 0.735yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………. (6)

So, fabric consumption for the Pocket is 0.735yds per dozen.

7. Fabric consumption for the Yoke:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 3.04yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………….. (7)

So, fabric consumption for the Yoke is 3.04yds per dozen.

Now,
Total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is-

= [{Number (1) + Number (2) + Number (3) + Number (4) + Number (5) + Number (6) +
Number (7)} + Wastage%]

= {(20.31 + 17.64 + 1.68 + 0.344 + 0.63 + 0.735 + 3.04) + 10%}

= (44.379 + 10%) per dozen.
= 48.82yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is 48.82yds per dozen.

And,
Total fabric consumption for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) woven long sleeve shirt is (48.82 ×
833.33) = 40680.59yds.
 2. Fabric consumption calculation method for woven bottom
(Trouser/Pant):

Normally, a woven bottom consists with the following parts-

1. Body parts,
2. Pocket,
3. Pocketing Fabrics,
4. Belt Loop.

Suppose:
The Buyer forwards a “Woven Denim Bottom” item order (10000pcs) to you with the following
specification.
Follow the below measurement chart.

Solution:

Fabric consumption for the woven bottom will be discussed in the below in part by part:

Let,
Fabric width- 56”
(Here, the given fabric width is 56”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric. So, all
time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is 56-1 = 55”)

Wastage- 10%
(Normally, we add 10% wastage for the regular denim fabric but in case of Spandex fabric, it
goes up-to 25%)

During calculating the fabric consumption of woven fabric, all time we will use the following
formula,

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

Now,
Body Width,
= 1/2 Thigh with sewing allowance
= 20

Now, from equation (A), we get-

= 22.30yds per dozen………………………………………………… (B)

So, fabrics needed for the body parts is 22.30yds per dozen.

2. Fabric consumption for the Back Pocket (2pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 1.36yds per dozen………………………………………………………………..(C)

So, fabrics needed for the back pocket is 1.36yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Pocket Bag (2pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 2.72yds per dozen……………………………………………… (D)

So, fabrics needed for the pocket bag is 2.72yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Belt Loop (5pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 0.12yds per dozen……………………………………………. (E)

So, fabrics needed for the belt loop is 0.12yds per dozen.

Now,
By adding the equation B, C, D and E we can get the total fabrics consumption for the above
order (per dozen)-
= (B +C + D + E) yds per dozen
= (22.30 + 1.36 + 2.72 + 0.12) yds per dozen.
= 26.5yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the above order is 26.5yds per dozen.

And,
Total fabrics consumption for 10000pcs (833.33dozen) garments is (26.5 × 833.33) =
22083.25yds per dozen.

Swing Thread Consumption Ratios

3/60 cotton Thread sewing at 16 stitches per inch for 1” seam.

Stitch Type Ratio

 Lock stitch 2.5
 Blind hem 4
 Zig Zag L/S 7
 2TH O/L 12
 3TH O/L 14
 4th O/L 17.5
 5th O/L 20
  Flat Lock 32
 B/H 20
 B/T 11
 B/A 5
 Eylet 24

Thread Application
Application Threads and Tickets
Men’s Suits, Trousers, Jackets, Coats 75, 120, 180

Ladies coats, suits, Skirts, Slacks 75, 120, 180

Dresses, Blouses, Shirts, Pajamas 120, 180

Suede and Leather 50, 75, 120

Knitwear 120, 180

Work wear 50, 75, 120, 180

Jeans, Cords 30, 50, 75, 120

Swimwear, Foundation 75, 120, 180

Underwear 120, 180

Gloves 75, 120, 180

Hats 120, 180

Footwear 20, 30, 50, 75

Furniture, Bedding, Upholstery 30, 50, 75, 120

Household Textiles (towels, Sheets, etc.) 120, 180

Book Binding 30, 50, 75

Other Trims and Packaging

  Button
 Zipper
 Elastic
 Interlining
 Pocketing
 Labels
 Swig tag
 Carton etc

Button Measurement and consumption

a. Unit of measurement of Button is called Ligne
b. 1inch = 40 Ligne (1 inch = 2.54 cm)
c. 1 ligne = 25.4 mm/40 = .635
d. The measurement is from outside edge to outside edge of the button
e. Button hole length = Button diameter + Thickness or height of the button.
Consumption:
144 pcs = 1 gross
12 gross = 1 great gross.
1 GG = 1728 pcs

Types of Button
1. Pearl button
2. Horn button: It is also polyester button
3. Chalk "
4. Logo "
5. Polyester "
6. Imitation leather
7. Polyester imitation button:
8. Nylon button
9. Alloy button
10. Brass fashion button
11. Jeans button
12. Snap button: 2 ports & 4 ports
13. Press button
14. ABS button
15. Polymat button : It is made of polyester & metal.
16. Cord button : It is made of cord.
17. Handicraft button :
18. Fabric Covered button:
19. Coconut button :
20. Wooden button :
22. Real Shell button :
23. Rhine stone button : It is made of metal & stone

TYPE OF CARTON:

1. DEPEND ON PAPER : 1. Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton

2. Duplex Carton
3. Box Carton

2. DEPEND ON STITCHING : 1. Stitching Carton

2. Now stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or Metal Free

Carton

3. DEPEND ON PLY : 1. 3 Ply Carton

2. 5 Ply Carton
3. 7 Ply Carton

4. DEPEND ON LINER : 1. Both Side Liner Carton

2. out Side Liner Carton

5. DEPEND ON SIZE : 1. Master Carton

2. Inner Carton

CARTON MEASUREMENT:

FORMULA (1) = (L+W) (W+H)X2 in cm (Without Wastage)

100X100
FURMULA (2) = (L+W+6) X (W+H+4) X 2/10000 (Include
Wastage)

PRICE = (L+W) (W+H) X 2 x Rate per Square Meter

100x100
= Rate/Pc

Example: Here, L=30, w=40, H=20,

From (2) = (30+40+6) X (40+20+4) X2/10000
= 0.97 Square Meter.
Rate for 7 PLY = .55 USD [For GMTS Export Natural 7 Ply Used
5 PLY = .39 USD (.55X 5/7) (Less Wt Master Carton)
3 PLY = .23 USD (It is used as inner carton)

Example:

Suppose, a 7 ply carton having length 80cm, width 60cm and height 30cm. Now calculate ply
board consumption or carton consumption for 500pcs carton box.

Solution:

Here,

Length of carton- 80cm,

Width of carton- 60cm,
Height of carton- 30cm,
Total carton-500pcs.

So,

Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),

= 2.74 square meter per pc carton.

So,

For 1pc carton, 7 ply board needs 2.74 square meters.

And,

For 500pcs carton, 7 ply board needs (2.74 × 500) = 1370 square meters.
Sewing Thread Consumption
Machine Needs thread per inch stitch
Plain Machine- Single Needles = 2.75 inches
2 Needles P/M (Plain Machine) = 5.5 inches
3 Threads O/L (Over lock) = 15 inches
Machine
4 Threads O/L (Over lock) = 19 inches
Machine
5 Threads O/L (Over lock) = 23 inches
Machine
Safety stitch = 20 inches
Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches
Chain stitches - 1 Needle = 11 inches
Kansai Machine - 2 Needle = 12 inches
Button Hole = 24 inches
Bar take Machine = 26 inches
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches

Q.1: Suppose, we want to make consumption on T-Shirt. T-shirt have 90 inches 3 thread over
lock stitches, 48 inches flat lock stitches, 18 inches 1 needle chain stitches, 16 inches single
needle Plain Machine Stitches, normal GSM is 150. Let's find out the consumption of sewing
thread in meters?

Solution: {(90 *3 thread O/L) + (48 * F/L) + (18 * 1 needle Chain stitches) + (16 * 1 needle
P/M) + 10% wastage}
= {(90 * 15) + (48 * 32) + (18 * 11) + (16 * 2.75) + 10%}
= {1350 + 1536 + 198 + 44 + 10%}
= 3440.8
= 3440.8 / 39.37 (1 meter = 39.37 inches)
= 87.39 meters

Q.2: Suppose, we need to buy thread cones with 4000 meters, Garments qty 2500 pcs, per body
consumption 91.37 meters. Now let's see how many cones need to stitch 2500 pcs of garments?

Solution: Per body consumption * Garments qty / per cone in meters

= 91.37 * 2500 / 4000
= 57cone
Poly Bag Consumption
Garments in a poly bag generally look smarter. Different type of materials used to produce poly
bags such as PP, LD, HD, LLDP, LDPE, OPP and VINYL etc. Before PP and LD poly bags used
for garments packing but now buyer likes LLDP, LDPE for environmental friendly
issues. Because both are a recyclable item but others cannot be recycled. LDPE is little
expensive than LLDP. Thicknesses of a poly bag for general purpose are between 100-450
gauges.

Poly bags, there may be different construction:

1) Plain poly bags
2) Poly bags with flap
3) Lip and gazette bags
4) Poly bag with button
5) Hanger bags
6) Poly tubing / Heat Sealed
7) Adhesive poly or self-sealing bags
8) Slider zip lock poly
9) Zip lock ploy

Thickness: Generally three different ways can be used to count poly bag thickness.
1) Mil
2) Microns
3) Gauge

Mil: Mil is recognized as thousands of an inch. 1 mil means the thickness is of 1/1000 of an inch.

Micron: Micron is 1/1000 of an M.M

Gauge: It is globally recognized system for counting poly bag thickness. 1 gauge is equal to
1/100000 of an inch. So, 1 mil is equal to 100 Gauge.

Conversion: 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 Gauge.

Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg):

Example:
Suppose, for a garments export order (10,000pcs), the buyer suggests the below information
about the poly bag.

Length of poly bag- 30”,

Poly bag width- 25”,
Thickness of poly bag- 160 gauge,
½ flap of poly bag- 3”

Solution:

Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg),

= 40 kg per 1000pcs poly bag.

So, for 1000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed 40kg.

And,

For 10,000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed= (40 × 10) = 400kg.