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BEFHELS GRAEME NEWMAN’S ‘MASTERFUL’

COMMAND PANZER DIORAMA
 CONTENTS
2 No rest for the Wicked
Graeme Newman describes his latest
Barbarossa diorama.

10 Rock Lobster
Mark Neville tanks the new Meng Markava for
a spin around the block .

18 Destroyer
Zvezda’s new SU-85 is put through its paces by Ilya Yut.

28 BTR 60
Fabrizio Pincelli builds the Trumpeter kit.

38 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 34
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

46 Donbass on Fire
New releases.

58 AEC of Spades
Ian Barraclough builds the impressive AEC 850 Recovery and trailer .

Seasonal Best Wishes from us at AFV Modeller

As we approach our twentieth year of publication, a fact that makes us all feel old, we have thinking about making some
changes to our format. After much deliberation and debate, we have decided to end our Keeping Track new release review
section in AFV Modeller. As AFV Modeller is published bi-monthly we’ve increasingly felt much of what we are sharing on
the pages of Keeping Track could be regarded as ‘old news’ to many readers when you get your copy. The popularity of
on-line reviews and social media announcements by manufactures has brought instant coverage of new kit releases,
something a bi-monthly printed publication cannot compete with. We plan instead to use the space creatively.

Our thanks to all the manufacturers and publishers who have supported Keeping Track over the years. We hope you agree
and enjoy the extra article coverage in future issues of AFV Modeller!

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

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2
The Germanic tribes had been moving East since
the Dark Ages, by the Middle Ages
spreading their influence up the Baltic coast
founding Hanseatic trading posts all the way to
Estonia, agricultural communities had been
founded deep into Russia as far as the Volga.
During the 19th century the nationalist slogan
“Drang nach Osten” had been used to
promote a German Empire in Eastern Europe,
under National Socialism this goal had
morphed as if on steroids into Lebensraum.

One of the key targets was the rich agricultural

lands of Ukraine and the industrial Donbas
beyond. Whilst highly effective the German war
of manoeuvre “Bewegungkrieg” had some
limitations, highly mobile armoured units cut
through and drove deep into enemy territory, tens,
sometimes hundreds of kilometres
ahead of following infantry and logistical units,
creating a “tyranny of distance”.

3
 The first person accounts that have become available in recent years describe in vivid
detail the agony of marching 30 to 40 km per day in an attempt to keep pace with
armoured spearheads in blistering heat with little fresh water and food. Within a
couple of months of Barbarossa attrition due to sickness and exhaustion were taking
their toll on Infantry units. When choosing a scene to model I am invariably inspired
by photos, one of my favourite books is “ Panzers in the Ukraine” by Heimdal these
books always have great photo coverage. The photo selection is rich in command or
befehelspanzers in summer 1941,these vehicles are a subject that causes some
confusion with the mix of features evident on certain variants. I decided to depict a
typical Ukrainian “mazanka” or peasant farmhouse with exhausted Infantry attempting
to take some respite with a command vehicle relaying orders to distant action a
couple of kilometres away.

Dragon kit 6844 PzIII Befehlswagen Ausf. H stirred my interest when released, it is a
pretty good representation with plenty of spares and some interior parts, there are
however some errors within the kit these only became evident only when construction
proceeded. These are not difficult errors to correct and should be within the remit of
most modellers. Dragon have released two versions of this particular variant one with
the dummy 3.7 cm gun and the one featured in this article with the 5 centimetre
dummy gun. These vehicles were only armed with a machine gun, the turrets were
bolted to the hull and radio equipment replaced the breech and ammunition storage.
Depending on configuration battalion, regimental or divisional headquarters vehicles
were equipped. Two series of ausf H were built but it is clear from photographs 5 cm
dummy gun configurations were available from the summer of 1941. Panzer Grey is a
very difficult colour to work with as the colour was a very dark hue with a tint of blue
as seen in period photographs it lightens with layers of dirt and dust. As the base
colour is fairly dark any pin washes to emphasise detail are less evident than would
be the case when painting a North African or late war scheme.

4
 Using photos from the Heimdal book I chose a
command vehicle from the 9th Panzer Division, there
are plenty of photos showing both 3.7cm and 5cm
dummy gun command variants, as with all units the
storage and fittings were bespoke for individual
division’s. Particular noteworthy are the
semicircular spare wheel retaining brackets
fitted to the rear of the vehicles, these are
obviously a field modification by the divisional
maintenance unit. Some vehicles had three of
these others two the vehicle I chose to model had
the latter. As can be seen in the photographs the
stowage was created with sympathy to the period
photos, this attention to detail is what makes a vehicle
realistic and gives it a lived-in look.

Of particular interest some of the vehicles in this unit

had cane furniture seats and carried these in with the
stowage, in place of these I opted for a simple
wooden stool as no equivalent could be found in
I will summarise the fixes for this kit :- scale.

•Dragon has supplied the driver's front plate from the gun armed
tank that has the square machine gun opening rather than the
circular opening for the pistol port. The bolt fixings for this plate
are in an incorrect position.

•A new front plate was constructed out of plastic card with the
correct circular cut out and fixing bolts positioned as per
reference.

•All visors had observation slits on the command vehicles unlike

gun armed tanks which had some visors without observation slits,
Dragon supplies spares but the instructions are for the gun armed
tank. Observation slits were scribed into the visors.

•The hatch for the TSF1 periscope on the turret roof sits flush with
the roof not raised as in the kit. A new thinner circular hatch was
constructed as well as the hinge bracket.

•The winch mast aerial hatch is too thick and was thinned to a
scale thickness.

5
 From a personal point of view the grey can't be lighted too much as you begin to create an
unrealistic colour to fit modelling requirements rather than reality. On this vehicle I used Xtra
Colour Panzer Grey slightly lightened with a light grey progressively lightening areas of
highlight, pin washes followed as well as defusing sympathetic colours across larger areas.
The wheels are left off at this point to facilitate the application of mud and grime on the
lower chassis this was aided by using AK muddy ground tentatively in areas the grime
would build up,some interesting effects were achieved by scraping this mixture as it began
to dry to simulate worn mud.

The wheels are then added and areas of mud revisited using pigments mixed with
paint, areas of damp mud were painted a dark shade then successive lighter tones to
simulate dried mud. One useful technique shared at a show by Lester Plaskitt is applying a
mix of water and detergent on areas where dust builds this is allowed to dry, successive
dust coloured acrylic washes can then be applied and finessed using a damp brush to give
an opaque dust effect. It cannot be emphasised enough that revisiting this dirt application
stage is key to building up realistic mud and dirt effects It is best to practice with some of
these effects as no one person has a monopoly on what can be achieved. The tracks were
an old set of Friul ALT03 the pinch-together type from an older model of 25 years vintage;
these were painted a medium Grey followed by successive washes of dark umber oils
followed by washes of earth tones and highlighted with graphite pencils. I wanted to create
grass field tracks that you can see in so many photos this was achieved with white glue
and static grass embedded in the recesses then carefully created longer strands hanging
down. The extended FUG8 aerial mast has very fine stretched sprue creating the extension
mechanism and wiring, this is nicely represented and is going to prove a bit of a nightmare
to transport.

Moving onto the ‘mazanka’, believe it or not this isn't too difficult, the hardest part is slicing
through the structure at an angle taking into consideration roof angles. These buildings
were simple wattle and daub structures with a weatherproof coating of plaster then paint.
Foam board of a suitable diameter is used to form the basic walled structure, windows and
doors can be easily cut away at this point.
6
Polyfilla is applied in a thin layer, after drying
window frames, door frames, doors and shutters
can be created using basswood or the like. The
roof is the time-consuming part, after creating a
cardboard base wallpaper brushes are used to
create the thatch effect, sections of brush 1 cm
or so wide are glued to the cardboard in
rows,layers, more rows and more layers just as a
thatcher would work in real life.

A week or so and several brushes later you will

have built-up a realistic depth, any unrealistic
repetitive pattern can be infilled randomly until
the desired effect is achieved. The roof was
painted a very dark straw colour that was
successively lightened to create variation and
depth. A very Ukrainian shade of blue was added
to the door and decorative areas before drying
this was scraped with either a wire brush or a
sharp blade to simulate wear and tear.

When creating a scene It is important not to

leave large areas empty one such area is filled
with a dung heap; this is simply plaster with
brush cuttings coloured to reference. Fence and
walk boards are soft basswood, the weathered
wood is a series of grey washes over a very
pale brown creating areas of variation will be
rewarding as lifelike effects can be achieved.

7
8
The corn is commercially available printed paper vegetation arm constructed. A sublime figure from Alpine sits in the
that was coloured subtly then kernels were added. In any cupola, wiring and throat mic on off switch added. Some areas
historical scene it is as important to put as much research into of the legs and posterior are cutaway and remoulded with
architecture and fauna as is put into vehicles and uniforms. magic sculpt to fit snuggly and realistically into the opening.
The two observers on the roof are modified to fit the scene
Corn was grown widely in the Ukraine from the 1920s onwards again using wire armatures and magic sculpt, changing arms,
according to sources, the type of habitation in the scene is very legs to suit.
common in rural areas of southern Russia, Ukraine and the
Caucasus, moving further North where it is heavily forested All other figures are stock and portray exhausted infantryman,
timber buildings become more common. Sunflowers are flesh and leather items are painted in oils, my default paint for
another synonymous feature of the region I have depicted uniforms is Lifecolor acrylics these dry perfectly flat which is
random blooms that are the result of dropped seeds to add ideal for clothing. Uniforms are referenced to the period one
interest. Aber etched metal are my preferred choice as stems item of clothing commonly seen are Officers lightweight
and petals can be realistically bent into position. summer tunics many of these were privately tailored in
A small printed soft wood wheelbarrow kit was painted lightweight taupe-coloured fabric, the officer on the roof
weathered and some potatoes left inside giving the impression wearing one such item. Once the groundwork is complete the
that any withdrawal either by civilians or Soviets was hasty. The vehicle is mated to the surrounding terrain. Never hurry
figures are a collection of stock and slightly modified, only groundwork or accessories these are as important as vehicles
rarely does a figure fit perfectly for your purposes so it is and figures I revisit the weathering process matching
inevitable that when creating a vignette or a diorama some surrounding tones to the vehicle.Time spent on positioning
modification is necessary. Stalingrad miniatures have released figures accessories is particularly important and can make or
some beautiful figures in recent years top marks go to Russian break a scene believe you me you will have as many failures as
sculptors who are highly gifted, one figure that fitted perfectly successes, practice makes perfect.
is the Panzer crewman sitting on the road
wheels, sculpted directly from a photograph in
the previously mentioned Heimdal
publication it shows exhausted Pz III
crewmen of the 25th Motorised Infantry These projects tend to be time-consuming
division. and if you expect quick rewards you're in the
I posed an infantryman in wrong hobby, sometimes I achieve what I set
conversation with the out to sometimes not, if others like it it's a
crewman,this figure is bonus.
modified to sit on a small
seat, the angle of the
legs and a new

9
 Meng’s latest Merkava 4/4LIC with Nochri-Kal Mine Roller System

Modelled by Mark Neville

10
The latest Meng Merkava is another version of their
excellent 4th generation of the IDF’s ‘Chariot’ with the 4 and
4M considered the most significant MTBs which serve along
with older versions securing Israel’s borders. An important
anniversary falls this year with the Merkava’s unique design
hitting it’s 50th year. Once again Meng have collaborated with
Mr. Michael Mass who heads up the team at Desert Eagle
Productions (who provide superb reference books for the IDF
modeller) and also happens to be the curator of the Latrun
Armoured Corps Museum so we’re assured of the highest
levels of accuracy which we’ve seen with the other
collaborations between Meng and Mr. Mass.

So what’s new in this 4/4LIC version of the kit? The most

significant difference is the monstrous Nochri-Kal mine roller
system which is, most definitely, a kit in itself supplied on three
large sprues this elaborate spring loaded multi-fingered
contraption can be built completely separate from the rest of
the kit. I’d suggest perhaps doing the build of this first as it’s
pretty demanding. Also new is the turret shell being the earlier
version without the loader’s hatch, again Meng have made a
sterling effort to create the anti-slip surface throughout within
the confines of injection moulding. A full new sprue includes
some beautifully rendered stowage basket covers; cast your
mind back to issue 100 when the Editor had to rely on the
resin upgrade to get a realistic finish to these parts. Thanks to
the latest digital 3D sculpting these parts are a very welcome
addition to the box. Also on the same sprue (and some of the
new photoetched parts) is the funky-looking ‘Droid’ soft-kill
system which throws out disruptive beams to send incoming
hostile fire off-target.

11
 Unlike the idlers, the road-
wheels are assembled from
seven parts each! Tedious,
maybe; detailed, most
definitely.
Monster Merk?

Following reference
images some of the
rubber tyres
received some
The suspension includes working torsion damage.
bars and springs; very clever but largely
hidden on the finished model.

I’m never keen on assembling ‘indi-link’

tracks. Of course the results are worth The tracks can be
it ultimately but two parts per link? Not made fully workable but
really much fun to be honest. I found I have to admit they are
some flash on the outer link parts a fiddle to assemble. If
which was easier to remove with the your budget will stretch
parts still attached to the sprues. A invest in some
strip of foam board with a slot cut into aftermarket metal links.
it provided a good guide for assembly.

Although Meng have made a good effort to replicate the anti-slip

texture I’ve added a little more ‘grit’ to it in places with some ‘Cast-
a-Coat’ powder. I would have favoured VMS Hull-Tex but with
COVID19 Lock-Down restriction I wasn’t able to get into the AFV
studio to steal the Editor’s! I feel this additional fine texture helps
replicate the dust at the weathering stage so is worth doing.

Note the vision blocks and head-lamps need to be installed at this

stage. I applied some liquid chrome ink from a Molotow marker pen
as a reflector on the reverse. The photoetch lamp guards will need
installing after masking is removed at the paint stage...yes, I forgot...

The rear stowage baskets

and turret basket have these
beautiful new covers
included. Digital 3D sculpting
gives very realistic results.
Photos of Merkavas in hostile
and combat situations often
show stowage bins (both rear
and turret) empty and the top
covers removed due to the
risk of fire.

The ball and chain protective

skirt and stretcher are
superbly detailed.

12
Idler wheels are slide-
moulded in a single
piece, superb! Holes were drilled
through the lugs in
the extractor collar
following reference
images.
With the turret and hull top dry-fitted the beast
begins to take shape!
The 120mm smooth-bore gun is constructed
from two halves with a good fit.

The Nochri (foreigner) Kal (light) mine

roller system is a massive piece of
equipment and a major part of the
model’s construction. Meng has designed
this to be fully articulating. I tackled the
construction in a few sessions as it’s a
demanding little kit in it’s own right.

Meng provide metal chain for

the limiting chains. Where the
link is designed to push in I’d recommend building the
between the retaining lugs of lobster-like right and left units
the bar I found the fit too tight completely separately as per
and removed the majority of the instructions. Many parts
the little ‘pips’ on the inside appear similar but have subtle
faces which necessitates a differences.
dab of CA glue.

Photoetched serial numbers are a nice

touch. Watch out for ejector pin marks,
most are hidden with the final assembly but
some may remain visible.

All of the movement of the unit is

replicated; each of the fingers can
move independently and the arms
can be raised or lowered. Most
photographs of the Merkavas fitted
with these show operations on flat
ground but the model would look
great posed on some rough terrain.

Desert Eagle offer four

volumes of superb reference
on the Merkava 4, the latest
is available now celebrating
the Jubilee year of the
Merkava design.

13
 Remote pull cables for
the .50 Cal. solenoids
were made from copper
wire. Note the two
shapes of the handles.

The ‘Droid’ soft-kill unit is another tricky little assembly due to all
of the fine detail. The clear lens parts were coated black on the
reverse and the round lenses masked with masking fluid.
The LIC mesh guard for the commander’s sight requires rolling
around a suitably sized cylinder, a pen in this case sufficed.

The lower hull was airbrushed with a dark olive green, a kind of
shadow colour which would contrast well with the dust and
weathering.

There’s something very

satisfying about a coat of
primer! We find Mission
Model’s own primer essential
to allow their acrylics to grip
well. Mission’s acrylics are
one of our go-to brands and
always perform well following
their excellent guidance on
www.missionmodels.com

IDF colours are one of those

debates that seems to go
on forever with modellers.
Sure, we have many colour photos to
work to but effects of various colours of
dust and natural light give images very
different results. I had set in my mind’s
eye the colour I was gunning for,
something which would give a suitable
contrast to the dust and dirt.

I ended up using a mix of MMP 056 RLM

02 ‘Grau’ (Luftwaffe colour) and MMP 105
‘Worn black-grey tyres’ in a ratio of
14 around 10:1 respectively.
 Lifecolor liquid pigments
were airbrushed to
replicate exhaust soot.

The turret prior to any dust

application. MGs were base coated
satin black and polished with Ushi
Van Der Rosten metallic powder.

Reference images show Velcro strips and areas where I decided to paint the barrel
they have removed the top coat of paint around the markings by hand, decals are
turret edge. The strips are used to fix a combat supplied if you’d prefer.
simulation system, medical tape has a suitable

Unless you’re showing your Merkava in a colder winter setting,

dust is going to feature in some degree so I shunned my usual
dark oil colour pin-washes and filters and went for washes of dust
colours in different intensities. I’ve used only two products to
replicate dust; Wilder ‘Aqua-Line Light Mud’ and Wilder ‘Light Rust’
pigment powder to add a touch of the orange tone often seen on
IDF vehicles. The mix is simply thinned with water and is easily
worked and reworked with wet and dry brushes and sponges in
various layers. As with the real vehicles, the dust clings around the
anti-slip texture and sits around details and recesses.

Pigment powder was mixed to match the dust and applied to the
tracks after base-coating in dark metallic grey and masking the
tyre contact area. The workable tracks proved pretty robust when
painting and received a buffing with graphite powder on high
contact areas before being wrapped around the wheels.

The flag adds a splash of Antennas were made from fine

colour; it’s a pre-coloured brass rod and the tie-downs from
super-thin photoetch part stretched sprue. insulators are
from Eduard. blobs of PVA glue.

Armour skirts can be added once the wheels and tracks

are in place. Bottom sections are thick rubber in reality,
Meng have captured the look well. 15
 After all of the dry dust effect was complete I looked to a dark wash to.
replicate the damp areas common in most of the Paint damage it quite minimal on these beasts, I’ve kept
photos of IDF vehicles. Lubricants attract and hold the mine restrained with some exposed red-oxide primer
dust and it takes on a much darker appearance exposed in a few places and some scratches and scuffs
lightening towards the edge of the stain. Something I done with a sharp, soft graphite pencil. This is most
did notice in my reference was how clean the ‘Droid’ prominent on the road wheel rims and hubs, idlers and
soft kill units are; kept covered when not in use this the drive sprocket where the exposed red primer was
sensitive piece of technology was the only item I applied stippled with an almost dry (of paint) piece of sponge.
The same red primer/dark red is used on the lifting
points of the mine roller system, something often seen
on IDF machines to highlight maintenence points.
Again, referring to the images in the Desert Eagle
books, many of the bolt heads are picked out with a
sharp pencil, either new fixings or paint removed from
abrasion.

The kit provides a tow cable from braided steel (which I haven’t fitted) and a heavy Although photoetch isn’t favoured by all modellers there’s sometimes
tow chain as metal links. The kit part wasn’t quite chunky enough in my opinion so no other way to recreate certain details such as the exhaust outlet
I swapped it out for one in Accurate Armour’s shackle and stainer set for the mesh. 1500 BHP of diesel power can kick out some smoke at high revs!
M1070 (A195) which was treated to an overnight bath in blackening fluid.

16
Reference shows a particular
pattern to the abrasion of the
paint of the mine roller wheel
units with exposed primer
through to actual bare metal; a
kind-of sand-blasting from the
contact with the terrain.

To surmise, this is a beautifully detailed and

accurate IDF subject again from Meng which fits
together without issue. Don’t expect to throw it
together in a weekend, there are many hours of
work assembling this beast, especially with the
mine roller system installed, it’s probably a kit for
the more experienced builder to savour, and a very
rewarding one at that.

17
 DESTROYER
I LYA Y U T S H O W S U S H O W G O O D A B U D G E T P R I C E D K I T
C A N L O O K B U I LT S T R A I G H T F R O M T H E B O X

18
Z V E Z D A’ S 1 : 3 5 S U - 8 5

19
 Following my positive experience with
building Zvezda’s T-34 UZTM, I decided to build
one more kit of their newly tooled T-34 line. This
time I chose the SU-85 tank destroyer, also a
nice kit, with good detail and decent parts fit, not
unlike Tamiya. The only minor issue was
assembling the fighting compartment. The roof
was slightly warped (I reinforced it with thick
plastic) and the front plate attachment was not
as precise as I would have liked.
I built the model pretty much OOTB, replacing
handles, tie downs and the fuel tank handles.
One of four fuel tanks I decided to remove and
that required some surgery. I also used some
putty here and there, and that’s basically it!

In true ‘budget’ fashion the kit barrel and tracks were

utilised, and why not? both are good, the tracks requiring
only a little filling of ejector pin marks. The link and length
style tracks can be left removable for painting.

Removing the mudguards

and fuel drum ads
character and allows for
the extreme mud-
throwing to come later!

Zvezda have made a great job of the

engine deck mesh frame, something
that usually needs tackling in
photoetch. A good design for more
novice modellers.

Some simple old-school tweaks such as drilling

the track pin holes and replacing handles with
brass rod add a little finesse for free.

20
 Camouflage is not typical for WWII Soviet armour, but
also not unheard of. I opted for a green-brown
scheme. My colours of choice were Tamiya acrylics;
XF-5 Flat Green and XF-68 NATO Brown were both
lightened with XF-2 Flat white and applied by
airbrush. Adding white helps keep the colours visible
under all the layers of washes, enamels and other
weathering.

Note that I painted and weathered

wheels, tracks, hatches and other
parts separately.

Chipping is the step that I really hate applying, but The third technique is the most tedious but helps
it adds so much to the weathered look, that I force achieving precise and controlled effect, while
myself to do it every time! I used several former two are the opposite – less precise, but
techniques here: sponge chipping, speckling with a time-saving. I usually apply two layers; lightened
Pre-dusting over the lower hull was stiff brush and precise painting with a fine brush. base colour and then in the middle of some chips
airbrushed with diluted XF-57 Buff. base metal metallic brown to add depth. Chipping
was again made with acrylics.

Once chipping was done, I made a wash using Wilder LS-09 Black
Brown oil, thinned with odourless thinner for enamels.
The same paint was used for “fake shadows” or let’s say detail
emphasizing. It’s mostly visible on the gun barrel.

The technique adds some depth to

otherwise boring areas. I applied some oil,
waited until it dried a little bit and then
blended with almost dry brush. This trick
becomes easy when you feel the right
amount of oil and thinner on the brush.

21
 The proper weathering started with dry dust. Initially I wanted to
make it with enamels, but failed and used good old pigments
instead. I applied them both dry and mixed with thinner. Once I
was satisfied with the dusting pattern, I then fixed them with
pigment fixer by Mig Production. The pigments used were Mig
Production Gulf War Sand (the best and most useful tone I find),
Abteilung 502 Desert Sand and Beach Sand and Wilder Beach
Sand colours.

When working with dust on my models, I keep three things in mind:

1-Use several dust shades, minimum two tones.
2-Contrast is key. While generously applying dust on some areas, I leave
others relatively clean. Dust may cover a vehicle uniformly and boringly in real
life, but it don’t look cool on a model! A gentle dust wash in the corners looks
better than peppering the entire model with pigments.
3-Some depth looks good when areas of darker/damp dust emphasize the
light dust.

To achieve the desired contrast, I used AK Dark Mud enamel product to add
darker dust, or dry mud if you will. I applied small quantities of the product
and then blended with thinner to obtain
a smooth transition.

The same enamel was used for

initial spilt fuel effects.

To push the contrast in weathering even

further I reinforced the darker areas,
adding spilt fuel and other wet effects. I
worked here in several steps, some
drops and areas were emphasized with
additional glossiness using AK Wet
Effects & Engine Oil enamels and
Abt.502 Engine Grease oil, while others
were left less glossy. The base patterns
had been painted with diluted Wilder
Black Brown and Winsor & Newton
Burnt Umber oils. The method of
application is easy, but requires some
practice. Fortunately oils and enamels
can be easily removed if things go
wrong.

I used Winsor & Newton and a fine

brush and applied the effects slowly
using diluted oils and enamels in
several successive layers.

22
 For dusty streaks I used the same pigments that had been used for light
dust. I mixed them with Pigment Fixer and applied with a thin brush.
Once they dried a bit, I shaped them more precisely. This method is less
convenient than using oils or enamels, but those that I had at the
moment were not vivid enough for me. Maybe I should buy more
alternatives or mix better tones from those oils that I have.
Dark streaks were made with enamels and oils from the previous steps.
The application method was similar – drawing a thin line, then shaping it
properly with a fine brush damp in odourless thinner. More glossiness
was again achieved by adding AK Wet effects and Engine Oil effects.

The lower hull was weathered throughout several Textured dry earth was applied by speckling Wilder To add tonal variety I applied aforementioned AK
easy steps. I started by applying AK Sand Yellow & Light Europe Fine texture product. I used an old deposits together with Brown Earth Deposit and
Light Dust Deposits. I then made streaking effect toothbrush and a stiff brush, moving them against a Dark Mud enamel. All products were blended with
with a flat brush moistened in enamel thinner toothbrush. Well, it covered the previous layer thinner to obtain a nice colour transition and
almost completely, so you can skip the previous emphasize darker areas.
step, learning from my errors!

Glossy wet mud areas

were imitated by
applying AK Engine Oil
Dark mud speckles were applied as the light earth texture. The only difference was using Wilder and then blending it
Textures of darker shades and AK Dark Mud. with thinner.

Piles of textured mud were also done using acrylic

textures and enamel products. I started with
applying some light-toned Wilder texture mix on The same texture was then speckled, again using a toothbrush, a stiff paintbrush and a
the fenders using Tamiya stirring stick as a toothpick. It makes sense to mask the nearby areas to avoid overspray. However the specks can
spatula. These acrylic textures are water-soluble be easily removed with water, it’s better to avoid it. The texture dries slowly. You can speed up
but once dry, they become rock-hard and can be the process by using a hair-dryer or blowing air from an airbrush, but the speckles and texture in
removed only mechanically, e.g. with a hobby general becomes softer and less edgy.
knife. So some practice on old models is highly
recommended!

Speckling dark fresh mud

was the next step. Again,
Wilder Dark Brown and
Dark Russian fine textured
earth textures were used.

The final step was

blending the mud and
adding wet effect using
AK Dark Mud, Fresh Mud
and Engine Oil enamel
products.

23
 I started the tracks by applying a dark brown layer Then light-coloured Wilder textures were added. I Then Tamiya XF-57 Buff and XF-78 Wooden Deck
of Tamiya acrylic paint. blended them with water to obtain fine texture. Tan colours were airbrushed.

Speckling mud was done using AK Fresh Mud, Areas of damp mud in the centres of each track
Ammo Mig Turned Dirt Splashes and AK Sand were added using AK Engine oil & Fresh Mud
Yellow Deposits. enamels. I simply applied them with a small
brush and blended with thinner.

The last step was adding

some metallic shine
using a pencil and MIG
Productions Gun Metal Weathering the wheels was rather similar to weathering of
pigment, rubbed with a the lower hull. AK Deposits were followed by speckling light
finger. After gluing the and dark mud texture and then adding wet areas using AK
tracks to the model, this Engine oil and Abteilung 502 Engine Grease oil.
step was partly
repeated.

The V-2 diesel engine

produced quite a lot of smoke
and soot. The black soot is
evident on all T-34 based
vehicles. I painted these areas
with an airbrush using Tamiya
XF-1 Flat Black and added a
bit of Black pigment with a
small paintbrush.

24
After all parts had been treated
separately, I glued everything together,
fixed some minor painting issues and
added eye-catching stowage items.

This range of T-34 based kits from

Zvezda are fantastic value, nice to
build and very well detailed. I hope
you agree that the SU-85 looks rather
good treated with some modern
weathering techniques.

25
 Modelled by Fabrizio Pincelli

28
The BTR-60 is an armoured personnel carrier built by the
Soviets originating in the sixties but still in widespread use
although superseded by the newer BTR 70/80/90. BTR translates
as Bronetransportyor "Armoured Transporter”.
It has advantages and disadvantages: the first advantage is
mobility with 8x8 power, it’s amphibious with solid reliability.
Among the negatives is the difficulty of entering and exiting the
vehicle. The successful platform has created many versions, but
its main ability as an amphibious vehicle earned it the nickname
‘the boat with wheels’.
Trumpeter’s kit is really well done, good fit and quite satisfactory
detail. It features photo-etched parts but not enough for my
desired level of detail. To solve this problem, I purchased the
excellent ET Model set that in addition to the photo-etched,
features a barrel in resin and machined aluminum with excellent
finesse. Not knowing the quality of the Trumpeter vinyl tyres, I
purchased a set of ‘weighted’ wheels in resin from ET but found
considerable gaps between the rim and the tyre. I tried to close
the gap but the final result wasn’t what I wanted. I used the wheels
from the kit with the ‘screw’ trick to compress and simulate the
effect of weight on the tyres. I also rebuilt the rear basket and the
light guards with copper wire, soldered for strength. I took
measurements from the kit and after fixing all the pieces in place
with masking tape applied the liquid flux and joined everything with
a touch of solder. The result is rewarding and also strong. As
regards the finer details, in my opinion, some parts of the kit may
have been satisfactory in hindsight. Photoetch can be too thin
compared to reality. This is my personal opinion, not to detract
from the excellent quality of modellers who are masters of PE.
Everyone interprets this fantastic hobby in their own way and the
best thing is just that; build and paint how you like.

The rolled tarps are a nice feature and were reproduced using a
piece of paper handkerchief to the inside and baking paper for the
outer. I prepared a mixture of water, Italeri acrylic paint, and PVA
glue. I slide the paper handkerchief to absorb into the mixture and
then apply it onto the sheet of baking paper. I press away the
excess mixture and the ‘fabric’ is ready to be folded or formed.

29
 This is the Trumpeter kit used and the ET photoetch After fixing the tire to the rim a hole is drilled Using a self-tapping screw it pushes on the rubber
set. I wasn’t happy with the fit of the ET wheels so through the tyre and into the wheel rim part. to simulate the effect of weight giving a realistic
resorted to modifying the kit parts. bulge and slight flat spot for ground contact.

The difference between a normal I find a heavy duty DIY type knife To remove the burrs a small fine This piece requires a punch to
rubber tyre and the modified one; a best for removing photoetch from needle file is my favourite. simulate the non-slip fender pattern.
quick and easy method for this type of the fret.
kit tyre.

Using the right tools to achieve

very good results. A photoetch
folding tool is a good
investment for long parts with
tight folds such as these
fenders.

To rebuild the rear rack I placed the copper wire

as the original kit part onto masking tape.

I apply the flux with a fine brush...

30
Then take a very small amount of solder to the tip of the soldering
iron and allow it to run into the joints, when cooled the joints are
strong. Soldering is simple with a little practice and the tools and
materials are inexpensive.

The model is ready for painting. I remade all the handles with
copper wire using the kit parts as a pattern.

31
 After cleaning the model with pure alcohol When the primer is fully dried a coat of AK To paint the wheels I used AK acrylics applied
sprayed with an airbrush, I applied the Tamiya Interactive 746 Russian Green acrylic is applied with a brush. They have excellent performance
primer directly from the spray can. and set aside to fully cure. brushing as well as thinned for airbrushing.

I applied AK080 ‘Kursk Earth’ over the entire and with a soft brush ‘Light dust’ pigment applied After time to completely dry, ‘Earth Effects’ to
wheel... when the colour is still wet. simulate the damp mud along the rim were

Here is the result after weathering. Little can be seen of the

original base colours!

Using the lighter green of the AK modulation set

(Russian Green) I created a slight modulation on the
panels and surfaces keeping upper areas lightest.

Pushing the contrasts even further I brushed the

‘Highlight’ green on edges and details. This effect will
tone-down after the weathering stage.

The model is ready for weathering. I tend to apply a

layer of clear matt varnish after this step to preserve
the work done previously.

32
 AK Dark wash and Burnt Umber oil paint
thinned with white spirit prepare the ‘pin
wash to be applied around selected
details. I applied the mix into the
recesses and the weld beads. With a
brush soaked in clean white spirit the
excess wash can be cleaned away.

Below we can see the strong

contrasts of the green highlights
and dark pin-wash.

I simulated chipped paint on edges and corners with

a sponge cut to a point using a ‘dabbing’ action.

The lower parts of the model are painted with Tamiya

Buff to simulate the dust in the first stage of
weathering.

Next step was to simulate collected dry mud. I ... onto which I sprinkled a layer of fine sand on Buff oil colour with white spirit created an overall
applied a generous layer of AK Nato rainmarks... the colour while still wet. The wet paint sets the wash to simulate the dust on the hull.
sand in place and absorbs colour.

33
 Clean white spirit can be used to move the dust The same diluted oil colour previously used More brown tones were added to replicate damp
effect around allowing it to collect in corners but diluted even further was used to simulate dust and dirt.
and recesses. the streaks and rain marks.

With a rubber artist’s shaper I applied Dark steel AK Engine oil mixed with Terra di Cassel oil colour With buff added to the glossy mixture the stains
powder to add bare metal wear and damage. and white spirit simulated grease stains. This dries are refined and some final fine streaking applied.
with a glossy finish.

34
I had never built an armoured wheeled vehicle before but
after seeing some photos of the BTR I decided I had to
make one, a change from my usual subjects and to face
the challenge of the tires. I must say it was very
interesting and fun to complete this project, filling a gap
in my display cabinet "fleet".

On this model I wanted to recreate a high level of dirt

due to heavy use and abuse, dried mud, damp mud,
dust and grease stains and it proved the ideal test-bed
for some extreme effects. The large tyres also bring their
own challenges; the heavy encrusted mud but the raised
areas of tread which results from driving on paved or
tarmac roads...all part of the fun of modelling!

35
 Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Thirty Four

Work continues on fitting out the turret with a large number elevation controls marks the end of the main work for the moment
smaller details and an awful lot of wiring. Things inside the turret on the lower half of the turret. Attention then turned to fitting out
are becoming incredibly busy with overlapping fittings and cables the upper turret shell and the majority of the work here was
meaning that a planned out assembly sequence is critical. Even adding the cables to connect in the intercom, lights, fan and the
so I managed to get myself in a couple of scrapes where my illuminated gunsight. All of this cabling runs up the RHS of the
enthusiasm for seeing a part installed overruled my planning. turret wall and across the roof on the internal rib that underlies the
Happily I was able to work around these without too many split between the angled and flat sections of the roof plates.
problems. The fitting of the gun sight and turret traverse and

It was now safe to install the elevation and traverse handwheels which were painted and pre-weathered before doing so. There is some room for debate
about the colours of these but I went with black as it matched the traces of paint on the Ausf H I examined.

As well as the light buff wash applied to the black areas I also added some The handle of the back up traverse system was also added at this point.
polished metal to the rim of the traverse wheel and the handgrip/trigger.

This is a good example of a piece that I should have modelled long before second part spans between the roof brace and I needed it to be strong
the gun was installed but I had somehow overlooked. I assume it is some sort because it will carry some cabling so I used brass strip that I bent to shape.
of splinter trap to protect the mantlet opening. The first piece was
38 constructed from plastic card and fitted to the top of the gun mount. The
Viewed from above the two parts have a staggered position. The new parts were pre-painted before they were fixed into position and then
touched up in situ.

I could now add the rest of the gun firing circuit which runs across the top of the gun mount on the new splinter guard. I began by gluing the ANYZ cable into
the warning light box atop the traverse controls 1. This was then glued into position up the arm of the elevation system and across the gun to the other roof
brace.

I added the missing welds to the braces which needed to be done before
these areas became inaccessible. I used Magic Sculp to create the welds
and they were painted to blend in with the existing weld details/

Returning to the new cable, I added the cable clasps using strips of self-
adhesive aluminium and small photoetched bolts. The clasps were then
painted in Elfenbein cream to match the rest of the interior.

39
 I could now install the gun sight which was pre-painted but I left off the This is one of the parts that would need some adjustment and careful
delicate parts at this stage. The telescope was glued into the mounting frame alignment so I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the mounting frame to the gun
which was painted black. shield and the whole thing was supported by two blobs of Blue Tac until the
glue had set.

2 3

I could then add the lens cover 2 and the brow pad 3 and also the traverse Above & Below These pictures of the completed telescopic sight show the
control arm 4 situated below the telescope. critical importance of the assembly sequence, such is the complexity of this
area.

Now the vision port mechanism could safely be installed 5 This just slotted In my excitement at fitting the gun sight I forgot to add the power cable (the
into position against the front of the turret. i used the kit glazing panel and sight was illuminated) so I had to locate it down the RHS of the sight
40 weathering was restricted to some worn metal where the latch moves.
The other part of the gunsight mount is the roof-mounted arm that supports was adapted with weld details, new hinges and locking clamp as well as
the eyepiece end of the scope. Because the turret shell including the roof will photoetched chains for the pin. The small placard comes from the AFV
be removeable I had to consider the best way to arrange this. The kit part Modeller decal sheet and adds an extra touch of detail.

The completed support bracket was glued into place on top of the sight and The completed support bracket was glued into place on top of the sight and
supported with more Blu Tac. The angle was checked to confirm that the supported with more Blu Tac. The angle was checked to confirm that the
bracket just touches the turret roof. bracket just touches the turret roof.

The power socket for the gunsight illumination was fitted to the side of the Likewise the power socket for the safety switch was fitted to the other gun
gun mount bracket and the cable connected to it. The power supply to the bracket and connected to the braided cable. The socket and connecting
socket runs across the roof so will be fitted there in due course. cable were ‘plugged’ into the power supply socket.

The dials on the direction indicator were added after some thinning of the The completed unit was then glued into place on the turret ring.
facia panel using the AFV Modeller decals. I made a pair of pointers from
plastic which were pre-painted and glued in place on the dials. 41
 Attention now turned to work on the turret shell with preliminary weathering A pair of Kasten 21 boxes from the AFV Modeller range of accessories were
applied to the interior. painted in preparation for fitting out the turret shell. The provide the comms
connection for the Commander and Gunner.

The location of these boxes on the Ausf H was at the rear of the side The first of the cables were added using the ANYZ chord with coloured rings
42 hatches . added showing green for the intercom system. Note also the power socket
added to the left of the hatch.
The layout of the cables takes some careful planning as here were the four The other intercom cable runs back across the turret roof and is loosely laid in
way connector has been added above the power socket and its cable place here.
threaded behind the intercom cable.

Gradually the jumble of cables was laid out and glued onto position, not I needed to make the emergency stop button which cuts off the power
without a few false starts and revisions. traverse for the turret. The square shaped box was relatively simple to
construct with some scrap photoetch for the circular ring.

Once all the cables were in place I was able to add the cable clamps using Once all the cables were in place I was able to add the cable clamps using
self-adhesive aluminium tape and photoetched bolt heads. self-adhesive aluminium tape and photoetched bolt heads.

The emergency stop button complete with its

warning lettering was fitted and the cables
added. 43
The project continues in the next Issue
 The Ukrainian conflict, was always
interesting to me, and I have been
prompted many times into doing some
research about this conflict. Eventually I
came across a photo of a filling station, in
Donbass, where very heavy fighting was
happening between the separatist forces
and Ukrainian Army, during which the two
parties took heavy losses. The diorama
represents a group of separatists
attacking the Ukrainian Army under heavy
fire, since this station was positioned on a
critical and strategic road for both
factions. After finishing my rough layout, I
did much research to understand more
about the filling station construction, for
example what type of material they used
for construction This understanding will
affect my painting process and help avoid
any mistake.

DONBASS
ON FIRE
Imad Bouantoun describes how he modelled his dramatic diorama

46
47
 The ground was shaped using blue foam and I created the office base mould and the fuel When the plaster had set the detail was scribed, I
pumps base from balsa wood to allow plaster to
roughly planned. glued the plaster onto the foam using Epoxy glue.
be poured level.

As you can see above, I inserted a piece of cork A layer of acrylic resin was applied to simulate After the acrylic resin dried I used Tamiya XF1 as
to create the cracks in the asphalt. the asphalt. the main colour and then worked with different
layers of oils using light and dark grey and finishing
with some brown washes. Man-hole entrances
were also added at this point.

48
I masked the ground and start painting the tiles Later I applied different layers of oils for the The different facades of the office building were
using different mixes from Tamiya based on grey weathering shading and weathering. drawn to scale on a sheet of paper and glued to a
colours. styrene sheet,1.2mm thick, for cutting.

For the metal canopy frame I designed the After I assembled the structure, I applied a layer The office building received different layers from
structure in 3D software and assembled it from of white car primer to create a good base for the Tamiya colours as you can see in the picture. The
laser cut 1.2mm card strips. paint. bullet holes were created using a fine drill. For the
windows and doors I used AMMO Desert Sand
acrylic. To simulate the Aluminum in the bullet
holes I used Mr Color Aluminum 218.

For the pumps I used AMMO gas pumps and

modified them to see the internal workings which I
designed in CAD and 3D printed.

49
 To apply the weathering I used Abt. 501 oils (Light For the weathering of the ground I used AK washes Now it’s time to create corrugated roof, but these
grey –ABT170, Neutral grey-ABT100) and then I followed by different layers of dust coloured panels have a different shape from the usual, it’s
use different layers of Bitume-ABT004, finally I Abteilung 502 pigments (Dry mud, Africa earth, like V shape as shown, so I designed a bending
applied by airbrush AK Engine grime and AK Dark Gulf war), fixing them using white spirit. tool using 3D printing technology. I chose very thin
streaking Grime, blended later by brush. Aluminum sheets (0.7mm thick) to make the
bending process easy.

The sheet was formed easily

and quickly between the two I started now with the outer shape of the canopy
‘moulds’. All the plates are fitted to using 0.9mm aluminum sheets. Using this
the canopy frame. material was a big advantage because it gave
me the opportunity to simulate the real effect of
bullet holes.

After I applied a good car primer on the aluminum

parts I airbrushed the main colours using Tamiya
white XF2 and red XF7. Now it’s time to assemble
the canopy and start the weathering process.
The signage for the canopy was cut from Again, oil colour tones and AK weathering enamels were
plastic card. used in layers for the weathering.

The two main metal support

poles of the main canopy
were built using aluminum
sheet of 0.9mm and styrene
sheets 1.2mm thick, also I
used Meng bolts to detail
the base.

50
Now it’s time to start the individual details; the
fuel pumps were base coated with Tamiya, and
before I applied a coat of varnish I did some
weathering to the red using AK pencils. Finally
different oil colour layers and AK enamel colours I scratchbuilt the Coca Cola fridge using also I printed-out Coca Cola logos and fixed them to
were used to simulate dirt and aged colour on the Aluminum and styrene, shelves were made from the aluminum and started the weathering process
pumps. Voyager PE mesh. by using 1000 grade abrasive paper to sand the
red colour to age it.

Various washes were layed to produce the dusty The main sign post was made from styrene tube Styrene strip and Aluminum was used to
and damaged finish of the chiller. with a diameter of 8.7mm and bolts from Meng. construct the main sign and frame.

The graphic for the sign was sized on my To add some more details on the ground I used To simulate the broken glass I used Shattered
computer and printed-out. Streaks of oil colour plastic containers from EUREKA; they are perfect Glass from Artefakt, it’s a very realistic looking
and Ammo Engine Fuel and oil was applied on and very well detailed. product and so easy to use.
the lower part to simulate accumulation of dirt.

FIGURES
The figures were converted
and painted by my dear
friend Alexey Sergeye.
Figures are the story-tellers
of any diorama.
Here are modifications made
to some of the figures.

2 3 4 5

1 Based on the Bravo-6 35202 "Huguette" Agony (2) figure, which is a French
subject from the battle for Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam. A modern Russian bulletproof
6 vest and uniform elements were sculpted from epoxy putty. Modern Russian
helmet from Armor-35 (356010) and RPK machine gun from ICM were also used.
In addition, a beard and mustache were added to the face.
2 Bravo-6 rifleman from 35052 US Infantry ‘Thumper Power’ set was turned into a
militia of the DPR army with the help of the Russian C-68 helmet (Tank Models),
body armor making from Magic Sculp, AK rifle from Zvezda and a backpack from
DEF Models.
3 Grenade launcher converted from an Arab rebel from Evolution (35139). The
head was replaced with a Hornet product, a backpack with RPG-7 grenades from
Live Resin, an Armor-35 helmet (356010), as well as various shoulder straps made
of photo-etch, Magic Sculpt and masking tape were added.
The Grenade carrier (not shown here) has also been converted from the Evolution
35139 set. I decided to dress this fighter in a T-shirt of the Donetsk football club
Shakhtar. Croatian defender Darijo Srna played for this club at number 33 and was
very popular with the fans.
4 The orderly and wounded soldier were converted from Tank Models set 35248,
representing the German WWII gunners in battle. The uniform was again sculpted,
modern body armour, ammunition and weapons were added.
5 This figure from Tank Models represents the legendary militia commander
Motorola (35180), and the second - a machine gunner in modern uniform (35188)
6,7 The machine gunner and Kalashnikov rifleman from the Evolution Miniatures
35060 Russian Contract Soldiers set were used out of the box.
51
 The GAZ Truck

I built the Trumpeter GAZ 66 out of the

box using only resin flat-tyre wheels
from Miniarm. Meng’s ZU 23 gun
received some scratch-built armour
plates from aluminum and styrene. Both
kits fit together without issue and are
very well detailed comparing with the
photographs I’d gathered as reference.

I airbrushed the camouflage on the GAZ using Tamiya and

Mr Color the main green colour was from Mr Color. For the
desert yellow I use a mix of Tamiya XF 3 and Buff XF 57 for
the black I used Tamiya NATO black XF 69.

For the rear bed of the truck I Paint chipping and scratches on the For the lower areas to simulate the
sponged AMMO Chipping Colour as main cab was done with AK pencils. dust and dirt I used different
I applied a filter of ochre using diluted a base to simulate the worn paint. coloured pigments fixed using
oil colour. Tamiya thinner X 20A.

For the wheels I usde Tamiya XF1 and For the ZU 23mm I used acrylics For the armour I used 3 rust tones Different layers of dust from AMMO
XF 85. For weathering of the wheels I from Lifecolor, all the highlights are using a piece of sponge. (North Africa and Kursk soil ) were
used first different layers of AK enamel applied by brush in lighter tones. applied into corners and recesses
dust colour, after 24 hours to dry I where dust would settle.
applied a mix of pigments from
Abteilung, also I use dark steel
pigment on the edges of the rims to
simulate bare metal in some areas.

The T-72
For the T-72 I used Meng’s kit T-72 B/B1,on all the T-72B
offered from Russia to the separatists there were some
numbers and markings that were changed when these
tanks entered the Ukraine territory. I decided to follow
the history of one of these tanks, and after many weeks
of research I had all of the movements for the one that
you see in my diorama. I decided to add some
modifications and details in-keeping with the subject
tank, I used Master Club tracks, smoke dischargers from
Aber, the metal barrel from Voyager.
Ammunition boxes from Eureka are also very well
detailed resin parts.

52
After primer I referred to a working drawing for The base colour is mixed from Tamiya (XF-5 Flat green), (XF-67 Nato green),(XF-49 Khaki),(XF-3
the T-72 since some parts are made from Yellow). All the various greens are based on Nato Green, the first mix was 80% Nato Green +20%
aluminium. I decided to use the hair spray Flat Green, Second Mix was 50% Nato Green+50% Khaki, third mix was 40% Nato Green+20% flat
technique to show bare aluminium, and green+40% yellow. I enhanced all the details using lighter tones brushed with Lifecolor.
airbrushed Alclad Aluminum (ALC101) in areas.

After referring to the reference photos the

main number of this tank was 125 changed
later by separatists by covering with a blue After applying a good layer of satin varnish from
painted panel to give the tank the new Testors, now it’s time to apply a filter, filter is a
number 005, I always prefer to use vinyl cut mix of brown wash 90% and dark rust 10% oil
stencils where possible. colour from Abt.502.

I started my weathering process on the lower hull by using AK

pencils to create chipping effects, then I covered these
scratches by a thin layer of satin varnish as a base for the dust
effects. I used AK Summer Kursk Earth and AK Rain Marks for
NATO tanks, they give me a good dusty base in the recesses
followed by some colour modifications on the reactive armor
using oil colours. Finally, I applied the oil and dirt using
Abteilung Engine Grease and Bitume.

For the wheels I applied a different mix using I applied different colours of pigments on the
NATO green mixed with Yellow and J.A green wheels and fixed them using Tamiya thinner X-20A.
for a better contrast to the heavy dirt. finally I used AK Dark Steel for the raw metal parts
on the idler wheels. The white paint on the four Note the primered light
wheels are used as a mark where crews should fix covers bearing the original
the chains on the train during transportation, number of the tank.

With the vehicles and figures finished I could now

bring all of the diorama elements together and
fine-tune the composition blending any colours
into the groundwork if required.

This was a big and time-consuming project but

very rewarding to sit back and study the finished
piece...now what’s next on the workbench?

53
54
55
58
The 1:35 Resicast AEC 850 Recovery
grabbed my interest a few years ago
when it was first released. A classic
‘inter-war’ look, stocky body and a
squashed bulldog nose – and a recovery
wagon to boot - what else could I want?
For me it’s an example of something
being so ugly it’s beautiful.
A huge part of modelling for me is the
research into the subject that I’m
building. This usually starts a few weeks
before my previous build is finished and I
will amass as much information as I can
gather from internet sources and books.
Most of this ends up in a folder on my
laptop which just keeps getting bigger
and bigger! It’s not unusual that I’ll have
in excess of 200 images for a project; if
you’ve seen my work in other issues of
AFV Modeller you’ll know that I like to
model some pretty obscure and unique
machines, so good all-around images are
a must.

59
 At the time of release I carried out some research into the ‘850’ The paper instructions in the kit are useful, but I found the printing
but there was very little information out there – a few pre-WW2 to be a bit ‘washed out’, so the CD images really helped (I don’t
images and some contradictory written reports of its heritage, but have a CD drive, so I emailed Resicast who emailed all the
nothing else. I put this one down as a ‘to do later’ – possibly when images to me). On the CD is an image of an AEC 850 being used
there were more images available (you never know, someone by the BEF to tow Vickers light tank on a 5-ton trailer; and towing
might even do a walkaround…) and some history to go on. what looks to be a Bren Gun Carrier behind the trailer using an A-
Cue 2020…and I’m sure like many of you, I have found myself with Frame. To the best of my knowledge there are no kits available of
a lot more time at the desk than I expected. A bit more research the 5-Ton trailer, but Resicast do make a 7.5-ton Recovery Trailer,
into the 850 revealed that it was originally built between 1932 and specifically designed to carry light tanks and vehicles. Looking
1936 by the Four-Wheel Drive (FWD) Lorry Company along with closer at the image seems to show a camouflage pattern on the
Hardy Rail Motors; with the designation of R6T. It was equipped AEC 850, so I also ordered the HATAKA British AFV Paint Set
with a 6-cylinder, 95 horsepower petrol engine and had all-wheel (WW2 European Colours) set – reasoning that the camouflage
drive transmission. During this time Associated Equipment colours would have to be Khaki Green No.3 (G3) and Dark Green
Company (AEC) acquired FWD and the R6T became the AEC 850 No.4 (G4), this being an early war image – but more about colours
– only 33 were ever built; almost all of which were lost during the later…
BEF’s retreat to Dunkirk in 1940. Resicast have only used resin for this particular model so there’s
I should also point out here that the 850 kit also comes with a CD no photoetch, white metal or other materials apart from some
full of walk around images and colour, high resolution instructions. plastic rods of varying thicknesses and some string for cables. In
The walkaround images also include what I assume to be the some places I think this is a shame as etched brass is a lot more
master-builder’s written comments; which provides a great insight stable for finer parts, however Resicast do make their casting
into the thought process behind building a master for production. plugs very easy to remove (no massive amounts of sanding

Well over 150 resin parts, none of them numbered! The etched brass brackets are provided in the kit, Rear suspension fitted to a busy looking underside.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions when handling just glue them at the right lengths to make the
resin, sand larger parts wet to avoid dust chassis jig.

I started the build with the 7.5-Ton trailer which when together in 2 called it a day on the trailer.
nights; I drilled out the pivot points and hinge pins for the Moving on to the AEC 850: The 850 box is absolutely chock-a-
suspension and A-Frame mounts and replaced them with micro block full of resin! The parts list shows 148 parts, many of which
brass pins. This allows these ‘movable’ parts to then be posed are duplicated… and herein lies the first problem I found. Whilst
and positioned on a base later on. One of the fine resin mounting there is a parts list both in the instructions and on the CD, none of
clips for the swing-down legs on the rear of the trailer broke off the parts are actually numbered! Also, in many of the instruction
and was lost to the carpet monster, so I replaced this with a strip steps (but not all) the parts needed are shown but not always with
of lead foil. I also left off the ramps at this stage so they could be numbers… All of this means that each step takes longer in
fitted later or clamped to the trailer bed as required. A useful tip if preparation and identification of parts that actually gluing the
I may – when fitting the wheels make sure that the casting plug things together! In most cases this isn’t a problem – the huge
remnants are at the bottom (road side). This way they won’t be winch housing is easily identifiable and nothing else looks like it;
visible on the final model. I also sanded the bottoms flat to add a but when it comes to steering brackets versus jib brackets the
bit of ‘weight’. The trailer kit also includes some string to add the parts are nearly identical… In most cases I took a punt and it
winch cable but I replaced this with suitable wire from the spares turned out ok, but in some instances, it was only the addition of
box. I also made up a tow cable as 2 spare cable ends were the walkaround images on the CD that came to my rescue.
included in the kit. I added a lead foil cover for the spare tyre and

Cab and front go together without issue. The front suspension and steering is quite The rear A-frame needs quite a bit of flash
complex. Test fit and test fit again! removing. With a bit of careful construction it can
be made movable,

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 With my (minor) rant over I’ll move on to actually building
the thing… I’ll say now that this is definitely an
‘experienced modeller’ build, but once parts have been
identified and test fitted (and test fitted again) the build is
actually quite straight forward – yes I had to refer to the
CD instructions for better images and walkaround images
more than once, but I see this as part of the build
anyway.

The build starts with the

construction of a jig to hold the
chassis frame stable whist the
(sparingly few) cross members
are added and the rear
suspension bogies are built.
There are 3 thick etched brass
parts included in the kit for
making the jig and
measurements are clearly
shown. Again, as with the trailer I
used micro brass pins to make
the rear suspension workable.

Strangely, although clearly shown on the

walkaround images Resicast have omitted
to include the rear brake linkages or cables.
I added the linkages with plastic card and
made the cables up from fine copper cable.
The front suspension is a complex design
(as per the real thing) which Resicast have
made a great job of - again, using brass
pins I made this workable.

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 Not a kit for the novice, but
certainly not ‘unbuildable’!

The retaining clips on the rear of the trailer are very The entire model was washed in warm soapy The model was primed with car primer. Summer
delicate. I lost one after this pic was taken. water before priming. weather meant it dried outside within hours.

Much of the underside of the truck is clearly visible once with braided copper wire and left the mounting hinge unglued so
complete, so a lower engine portion, exhaust and drive-lines are that the lifting frame can pivot backwards and forwards. Usefully,
all included and make the underside look suitably ‘busy’. Resicast the CD includes annotated images of the primary and secondary
suggest leaving the oil filler pipe off until later in the build – I will winch cable feed routes depending on types of tow or recovery. I
echo this after knocking it off about 10 times during the remainder simply hitched the primary hook to the secondary loop, so that I
of the build! could pose it as needed later.
The cabin and front bonnet are quite straight forward; I again In preparation for painting I gave both the trailer and the truck a
referred to the walkaround images for the front light mounts, as warm soapy bath! I often hear that this isn’t needed as a good
there were not clearly shown in the instructions. I drilled out the primer will remove any grease marks or mould release agent; but
solid resin lights in order to add clear resin items later; I also fitted I’d rather not take that risk… in truth the drying time (at least 24
a hollow tube to the steering wheel column so that it can be fitted hours) allows me time to take stock of what’s been done so far,
without glue and be easily removed if I want to add a driver. I make minor corrections and think about what needs to be done
found that the handbrake lever seems to be shown upside-down with regards to painting.
in the instructions when compared to the real thing; and that in I primed the models (both the truck and trailer) with white car
many of the wartime images canvas mud flaps have been fitted to primer from a spray can – I find this highlights any gaps,
the front mudguards. I added these from lead foil taking care not fingerprints or blemishes very well. I was lucky during this time as
to foul the rear handbrake lever on the righthand side. I also the UK was experiencing some rare sunny weather, so I put the
added front (and rear) number plates and divisional marking plates models outside and the primer was dry in a few hours. I
from plastic card (although the front one is included as resin I airbrushed Vallejo Modern Russian Green as a dark base coat (for
missed it in the instructions). no other reason than it’s dark green and I have lots of it!) before
The rear load-bed is made up from 2 large bins and the load-bed airbrushing the Hataka Khaki Green, leaving the dark green to
as a single casting – these all go together quite easily. The winch show though on the lower surfaces and crevices.
housing and mountings are quite complex parts which take quite a Now, I’m no WW2 British colour expert (others are), but I now had
bit of test fitting and whittling to get a good fit. I would suggest what appeared to be lime green 850 and trailer...! A quick post of
that if you want to add cable to your winch drum do it before any a pic of the models to an online forum; and with a response back
gluing takes place. from the Editor nonetheless, revealed that this colour was nothing
The final part of the 850 build is the lifting frame. Again, this is like Khaki Green G3… cue much tutting and muttering of “what
quite straight forward, although with a bit of flash clean-up were Hataka thinking…”.
62 required on the main beam. I replaced the string bracing cables
G3 and G4 paints, and the dark green
used as a base coat.

Lime green...a little off the mark... Decals applied from the spares box.

Dust build-up is started using Lifecolor

Liquid Pigments. Attention was payed to
Dark green bands were applied with the G4 tone,
wear and tear on the trailer bed along
with a paintbrush! Shock, horror!
with fuel and grease stains.

Despite the poor colour representation, I was really happy with the a brown/black oil paint mix using odourless thinners and applied a
colour highlights and shading – so mixed up a watery mix of pin wash to all crevices and low points – this is a time-consuming
Tamiya Olive Green and Vallejo Dark Green Wash and applied a process but really gets the details popping on this ugly beast.
‘tint’ all over the models. I’m never a stickler for ‘exact’ colours on At this stage it’s worth thinking about how dust and dirt settles on
models – I’ve worked around enough military vehicles to know that a real military machine – I know it may seem obvious, but in the
colour can be very subjective and has hundreds of factors which majority of cases dust will rise up from roads and tracks as a
affect its final appearance. At this stage the Khaki Green looked vehicle passes over it. The front of the vehicle will get less dirt and
right(ish) and I knew that I wanted to apply a good dust covering dust (unless it’s following behind another vehicle) and the rear of
which, again would affect the overall green appearance anyway – I the vehicle will get more. You can almost draw a diagonal line
moved on from the Khaki Green saga… from the front tyres (or sprockets) up to the uppermost corner at
My initial intention was to airbrush the Dark Green G4 stripes, the rear of the vehicle. Dust and dirt will settle in crevices and
using masks to get a hard edge pattern – although sat at my desk gaps; and be brushed off peaks and areas of heavy use.
one night with the Hataka Dark Green G4 (yes, it looked to be the With this in mind I airbrushed a light misting of clean water all over
right colour) and a paint brush I though I’d go ‘old school’, so the truck and trailer, before immediately liberally applying the best
decanted some of the Dark Green onto a palette and applied the part of a pot of Lifecolor Liquid Pigments Dark Dust -with a thick
stripes to the rear bed sides and cab front area with a brush – brush. Immediately following this; and whist still wet, I used a
crazy I know! I then bushed in detail areas such as tyres, cables clean, soft thick brush to ‘wipe’ downwards all over the model
and plates by hand. from the top down (put some tissue paper underneath unless you
After drying overnight, I applied a Future Klear coat by airbrush want to ruin your carpet). This motion wipes the ‘thick’ dust off the
before adding decals for the dials, number plates and Divisional upper surfaces and into the crevices and lower areas. I don’t
plates. Resicast don’t provide any decals so these all these letters bother with wiping the underside – have a look under a real truck
and numbers came from the spares box. I sealed the decals with on a construction site to see how dusty it is under there.
a quick brush of Future Klear and allowed to dry. I then mixed up 63
 The Liquid Pigments dry quite quickly and following this the effect applied Mig Gun Metal weathering powder around the corners of
can look quite streaky, so I wet my brush in clean water and again the load bed, trailer ramps and winches; as well as cables and
wiped all over the model; this ‘softens’ the streaking and can be around the cab. These are the areas of most wear so dust; and
done again and again if needed. I sometimes also use a cotton even paint would be worn off them. The final touch was to add
bud (cue tip) on more stubborn areas. Around the wheel wells some oil and fuel staining to the load bed and trailer bed; as well
and the bottom sides of the load bed, as well as on the trailer as around the fuel filler cap and winch mechanism body.
sides and bed I used thinned Tamiya Buff through an airbrush to
get the effect of dust being kicked up – this again softens the So, final thoughts… without a doubt complex, and with time and
streaking effect and, over the top of the Liquid Pigment Dark Dust effort even enjoyable; but by no means unbuildable. A useable
gives the impression of there being much thicker dust around the parts list with numbered parts (even pictures) would have been
lower surfaces. useful, but all in all this just adds to the challenge.
To finish off I used a Mig black weathering powder around the
treads of the tyres where they would impact on the road. I also

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