Information Sheet 3.

2-1

Methods of Composting
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. define vermicomposting
2. list the methods of indoor composting
3. apply the learning when it comes to the pros and cons of each
method
Time allotment: 30 mins.

Overview of Composting

Composting, in a nutshell, is the breaking down (decomposing) of

organic material. When this organic material is broken down, it creates
powerful compost that is essentially a type of “soil conditioner,” a product
added to soil to help grow whatever it is that is being grown and can supply
available nutrients to plants with a total Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and
Potassium (K) of 2.5 to less than five percent (2.5-5%). Compost and soil
conditioner are used interchangeably in the Philippine National Standard
(PNS).
The three main benefits of composting include:
 The creation of nutrient-dense soil and fertilizer
 Reducing local landfill amounts which also decreases the release of
methane
 Minimizing your overall carbon footprint on the ear
Methods of Composting
The methods of composting are broken into three categories:
 indoor composting
 outdoor composting for small spaces
 outdoor composting for large spaces

INDOOR METHODS OF COMPOSTING

These three composting types are great for smaller, indoor spaces. No
yards, manual labor, or heavy equipment required!

1. VERMICOMPOSTING
 Vermicomposting is the use of worms
(specifically red wigglers) to produce
compost in the form of castings, or worm
poop . This is one of the best ways to
compost in small spaces, plus it’s hands off
for the most part!
 Scientific method of making compost.
It is the product of the decomposition
process using various species
of worms, Specially AFRICAN NIGHT
CRAWLER
*Its Scientific name Eudrilus eugeniae
* Origin from West Africa
*Can breathe through their skin
*Voracious appetite and ability to quickly reproduce
*distinctive mix of a grey and purple color and grow to over twice
the size of red worms often reached 8 inches
*The worm liquid at the bottom of the worm bin is great for
the growth of garden plants. It is known for us a WORM TEA.
 AFRICAN NIGHT CRAWLER
*HERMAPHRODITES- when they mate, two worms become pregnant
*They are shy from light
*A very complex digestive system
* They have 5 hearts
*Able to double their population every month
VERMICULTURE
 Means cultivation of earthworms in order to use them to convert
organic waste to nutrients and beneficial microorganism. It Grows
organically rich compost called HUMUS.

VERMICAST- is a worm excreta, a granular, in aggregates which are

mineral granules bonded in such a way that they are resistant to soil
erosion and soil compaction.
SUBSTRATE- Mixture of feeds to the worms
CARBON SOURCES 30%- Grass, rice straw, corn stalks, sawdust, coco
dust, coco coir, papers.
NITROGEN SOURCES 70%- Kakawate, monggo, peanut, ipil2x leaves and
hagonoy.
HOW IT WORKS!
STEP 1
SETTING UP THE WORM BIN *Select a spot in your house to place the
worm bin that is consistent temperature and moisture level. To prepare a
compost, you may use plastic container or concrete tank. Avoid placing near
heater, oven, air conditioner or vent. *Ideal temperature for the worm bin is
55 to 75 degrees Farenheight or 12.8 to 23.9 degrees Celsius
STEP 2
PREPARATION OF SUBSTRATE
A. Collect banana leaves, cacawate leaves and stalks trashes and animal
manure, chicken dung, cow/carabao manure.
B. Chop leaves and stalks finely. Chopping help speed up decomposition by
increasing the surface area available for microbial action and providing
better aeration.
C. Mix chopped materials with chicken dung or Carabao manure at a ratio
of 7:3 or 70% trashes 30% animal manure as source of nitrogen
STEP 3
PRE- COMPOSTING ACTIVITIES
Pile the substrate in a bed measuring 1x5 meters or larger with wooden or
concrete sidings. Compost file is 2 ft. high. Water is added to increase
moisture to at least 50-70%. Place the compost bed on a shady area with
access to water supply. A canopy is recommended to protect the beds from
direct sunlight and heavy rains. The Substrate usually heats up in 24-48
hours which marks the working of the composting process. In four weeks’
time, the temperature drops and it is now ready for the stocking of worms.
STEP 4
STOCKING OF EARTHWORMS
Stock about 2-3 kls of AFRICAN NIGHT CRAWLER earthworms per tons
of substrate. Place the earthworms on the top of the pile, they easily go
down into the substrate.
PROS CONS
aerobic (uses oxygen, so no no meat or dairy products are
methane is produced) allowed
low maintenance and mostly hands may attract fruit flies and produce
off odor if too much food waste is
added

year round composting possible worms multiply extremely fast,

which means you’ll need to give
some away, release them outdoors,
or get a bigger bin
relatively inexpensive separating worms from castings for
garden use may be a hassle

great for apartments and small can take up to 3-4 months before
living spaces compost is usable

MATERIALS NEEDED
Vermicomposting requires anywhere from 250-1,000 red wigglers,
which you can buy online. These worms multiply very quickly, therefore
some individuals start out with a smaller amount. However, more
worms may be needed for those with a large amount of food waste.
 approximately 1 pound, or around 1,000 red wigglers
  worm bin
 soil
 proper ratio of brown to green organic waste
2. BOKASHI COMPOSTING
Bokashi refers to the process of breaking
down organic waste through fermentation.
The Bokashi composting method was
developed by a Japanese professor in the
1980’s.
HOW IT WORKS!
Food waste– including bones, meat, and dairy products– is placed in
an airtight bokashi bucket and layered with inoculated bran or wheat germ.
The bran or germ feeds the waste fermenting microorganisms. This method
is anaerobic, meaning no oxygen is necessary for breakdown to occur.
Liquid is produced throughout the process, which is drained through
the spigot found toward the bottom of the bucket.
The final broken down product needs to either be buried (preferably either in
a garden trench away from young plant roots or in a traditional compost
pile.) This further breaks down the fermented mixture, turning it into usable
compost.
PROS CONS
great for apartments and small anaerobic, which means a small
living spaces amount of methane is produced
bones, meat, and dairy are okay may be smelly when bucket is
opened

low maintenance and mostly hands requires some outdoor space for
off finishing product
year round composting possible several buckets may be needed
relatively inexpensive
compost is complete within 1-2
months
MATERIALS NEEDED
 indoor composting bucket with spigot
 inoculated bran
 food waste
 outdoor space for burying mixture
 shovel
3. ELECTRIC COMPOSTER/FOOD RECYCLER
Electric composters, also known as food
recyclers, are small enough for countertops and
can breakdown all food waste. They create
‘compost’ in less than 24 hours, which is by far
the fastest method available.
The final product is a bacteria free, dry, powder-like material that can still
provide beneficial nutrients in the garden or yard.
HOW IT WORKS!
Food recyclers work in a three-phase system:
Drying: Food waste is heated to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This helps
decrease the material’s volume by 90% and kills off any pathogens,
sterilizing the product.
Grinding: Grinding gears turn the material (exactly like turning the pile in a
traditional compost bin), further breaking it down. At this point, it’s nearly
ready to be mixed with soil in the garden or lawn.
Cooling: Contents are returned to room temperature. Then the final product
is ready for application.
PROS CONS
perfect for small spaces and fits on higher price
most countertops or under the sink

usable year round requires filter change every 3 to 4

months

accepts all foods, including bones, uses energy

dairy, meat, cheese, etc.
food broken down in 5 to 24 hours not true compost
no manual labor needed cannot be used as topsoil
no methane produced

TYPES OF COMPOSTING FOR SMALLER OUTDOOR SPACES

Small yard? Don’t fret! There are plenty of ways to compost food waste
with little space!
4. HEAP COMPOSTING
This traditional method sounds exactly how you may imagine. Organic green
and brown waste is piled in a heap and left to decompose. All it takes is
about 2 feet by 2 feet space.
HOW IT WORKS!
Traditional composting uses microbes, like bacteria and fungi, to
break down organic waste. First, a layer of
carbon rich brown materials creates the base.
Then layers of browns and greens are added.
Once the pile reaches about three feet,
compost is formed quickly, as long as it’s
turned every three to five days. The process
speeds up once internal temperature rises to
160 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat also kills weeds,
disease pathogens, and harmful insects.
Compost still forms even when the heap is left to sit without being
turned. This method is known as ‘cold composting’ because heat isn’t
generated and may take years to actually decompose.
PROS CONS
inexpensive may attract pests and unwanted
insects
most natural and sustainable not attractive
method

easy to see finished compost no bones, dairy, or meat allowed

can take several months up to
two years for compost to form
composting slows down in cooler
temperatures
5. TUMBLER COMPOSTING METHOD
This is currently one of the most popular
methods of composting. Organic material
(browns and greens) are placed in a
barrel shaped tumbler, which needs to
be turned every few days. Composting in
a tumbler is easy, compact, and low
maintenance.
HOW IT WORKS!
Brown and green materials are place in a tumbler, along with soil
or finished compost to jumpstart the process. The tumbler is turned
every three to four days to aerate the mixture so all microbes get
oxygen. A full tumbler will produce more heat, which breaks down the
waste even faster.
Finished compost takes anywhere from one to six months using the
tumbler method.
PROS CONS
no manual labor necessary may attract fruit flies and pests if
organic material balance is off
perfect for smaller yards and no bones, meat, or dairy allowed
outdoor spaces

inexpensive composting slows down in cooler

temperatures

keeps animals away may take up to six months

MATERIALS NEEDED
  compost tumbler
 organic brown and green material in a 2:1 ratio
 soil or finished compost to jumpstart the decomposition process
6. WIRE BIN COMPOSTING
A wire bin system is one of the easiest DIY
methods of composting. You can get all the
items needed to build a wire bin from your
local hardware store for just a few dollars.
How it Works!
A mesh wire bin holds all the green and
brown compost materials. It’s also
working similarly to the traditional compost bin system. Waste material
is added in layers, starting with brown waste on the bottom.
When compost is finished, just lift up the wire and move to a different
location to start over.
PROS CONS

inexpensive requires manual turning

easy to see when composting outdoor space needed
process is complete

great for small yards easily attracts pests and vermin

no bones, meat, or dairy allowed
may take 3 months to 1 year for
completed compost
MATERIALS NEEDED
 poultry fencing wire (3 feet by 10 feet, no more than 1 inch mesh)
 zip ties
 optional: 2 inch wide, 3 feet wood pieces for stabilization
 brown and green organic waste materials in 4:1 volume ratio
OUTDOOR COMPOSTING METHODS FOR LARGE SPACES
Finally, these last few methods of composting are great for bigger yards
and outdoor spaces.
7. LASAGNA COMPOSTING (SHEET
METHOD)
Lasagna composting (sometimes called the
sheet method) breaks down organic
materials in layers on the ground, typically
where a garden bed will be planted. No
turning needed!
How it Works!
First, it’s important to choose the location wisely. Wherever you choose
to start lasagna composting will be the site of your future garden.
Then, the following steps are important to follow:
1. The first layer should always be newspaper, paper, or cardboard.
This base layer will kill any weed or grass growth, and prepare
the ground for future planting.
2. Alternate brown and green materials in layers until the lasagna
compost pile is about two to three feet tall. A layer of browns should
be on top to deter pests.
3. Water the compost pile as needed and wait. The layers will ‘cook’ down
quickly in just a few weeks.
In six to eight months the lasagna compost pile should be fully decomposed
and ready for planting.
PROS CONS
no tilling or digging needed unattractive

no turning necessary brown and green materials must be

gathered and stored in advance

easy to maintain no bones, meat, dairy

free outdoor space required
may attract pests and other animals
may take 8 months for complete
decomposition
MATERIALS NEEDED
 brown, carbon rich material
 green, nitrogen rich material
 rake for tidying

Self- Check 3.2-1

I. Enumeration: Identify what is asked.

List all the indoor methods of composting.

II. Essay: Read and analyze the question. Write answers at least two
to three sentences.
Define vermicomposting and give its pros and cons.
 ANSWER KEY 3.2-1

I. ENUMERATION.
a. Vermicomposting
b. Bokashi composting
c. Electric Composter or food recycler

II. Essay
Vermicomposting is the use of worms (specifically African Night
Crawler) to produce compost in the form of castings, or worm
poop .
The pros of vermicomposting are great for apartments and small living
spaces and low maintenance and mostly hands off while the cons are it may
attract fruit flies and produce odor if too much food waste is added and can
take up to 3-4 months before compost is usable.
 TASK SHEET 3.2.1
Title: Perform substrate composting

Performance Objective: Given the raw materials for composting,

you should be able to perform substrate
composting following the correct procedures
within 2 hours.
Supplies/Materials : PPE, Worm bin (plastic container or concrete
tank); Bolo; Nitrogen sources 70 %: Kakawate leaves, Ipil-ipil leaves,
Papers, Hagonoy, Banana stalk; Carbon sources 30%: Cow/carabao
manure, Chicken dung, Shovel

Equipment : None

Steps/Procedure:
1. Wear personal protective equipment.
2. Setting up the worm bin (plastic container or concrete tank). Select a
spot in your house to place worm bin.
3. Collect nitrogen sources such as banana stalk and leaves, kakawate
leaves, ipil-ipil leaves, hagonoy and papers.
4. Collect carbon sources such as cow or carabao manure and chicken
dung.
5. Chop leaves and stalk finely by using a bolo.
6. Mix chopped materials with chicken dung or carabao manure at a
ratio of 7:3 or 70% nitrogen sources and 30% carbon sources by
using a shovel.
7. Pile the substrate in a bed measuring 1x5 meters or larger with
wooden or concrete sidings. Compost file is 2 ft. high.
8. Add water to increase moisture to at least 50-70%.
9. Place compost bed on a shady area with access to water supply.
10. Put canopy or cover is recommended to protect beds from direct
sunlight and heavy rains.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration, Oral Questioning
 Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2-1

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you..?
1. Wear personal protective equipment? 

2. Set up the worm bin to a spot that is on a 

consistent temperature and moisture level?
3. Collect nitrogen sources such as banana stalk 
and leaves, kakawate leaves, ipil-ipil leaves,
hagonoy and papers?
4. Collect carbon sources such as cow or carabao 
manure and chicken dung?
5. Chop leaves and stalk finely using a bolo? 
6. Mix chopped materials with chicken dung and 
cow or carabao manure at a ratio of 7:3 using a
shovel?
7. Pile the substrate in a bed measuring 1x5 
meters?
8. File a 2 ft. high of compost? 
9. Add water to increase moisture? 
10. Place compost bed on a shady area with 
access to water supply?
11. Put canopy to protect beds from direct 
sunlight and heavy rains?