THE 4-H

CROCHETING
HANDBOOK
TABLE OF CONTENTS
• Teaching Your Love of Crocheting to Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
• Crocheting Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
• Crocheting Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
• Yarn & Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
• Working from a Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
• Rolling Yarn into a Ball That Pulls from Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
• Holding the Yarn and Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
• Foundation Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
( Slip Knot, Yarn Over, Chain Stitch and Working Into the Foundation Chain)

• Learn How to Crochet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

( Slip Stitch, Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet, Double Crochet, Treble Crochet,
Turning Chains, Fasten off, Joining in New Yarn, Weave in Ends, Seams)

• Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
( Single Crochet Double Hotpad, Crocheted House Slippers, Basic Crochet Slippers,
Solid Dishcloth, Striped Dishcloth, First Hat, Easy Scarf, Crocheted Mittens,
Bassinette/Purse for 6” Baby Doll, Baby Blanket, Crochet Felted Bag, Crocheted Edge
Patterns, Pompoms)

• Judging Scoresheet... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
• Service Project Ideas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
• Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
• Smart Phone Tags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
• Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Microsoft Tags® throughout this booklet are connected to

instructional crocheting videos. It will require you to download
the App to use these tags. To download app,
go to: http://gettag.mobi

Get the free mobile app at

http:/ / gettag.mobi
TEACHING YOUR LOVE OF
CROCHETING TO KIDS
Helping 4-H members learn a skill like 6. Showing is better than telling.
crocheting can be a real challenge as well as Demonstrate the skill that you want them
a gratifying experience. You will find that to learn.
some members will master the skill easily,
7. Put something in their hands as soon as
while others will struggle. Children who are
possible. Many teachers have found it easier
taught to crochet learn so much more than
to begin by giving students a hook with a
just “stitches.” They learn problem solving
few rows of crochet completed. Students
and math skills. Their reading, motor skills
learn the basics more easily and then go
and eye-hand coordination are enhanced. It
back and learn foundation chain, which
is an opportunity to develop decision making
can be tricky for beginners because of
abilities and learn skills that can give pleasure
their tension.
throughout a lifetime. They find an outlet for
their creativity which builds self-confidence
8. Children need a sense of accomplishment.
and self-esteem.
Provide them with frequent progress
reports.
TEN TIPS FROM THE PROS
9. When a child is having difficulty with a
1. KEEP IT FUN! Your young students must
skill, show an alternative, if possible.
enjoy what they are doing. Let them see that
you are having fun.
10. When teaching teenagers:
2. Have a model to display of a project • Do not “dumb down” your
so your students can see what they will instructions, but recognize their
be making. interests are different.
• Treat them as adults not like
3. Select simple projects that will interest your “large children.”
young students. • Choose projects that match
their interests.
• Choose projects that can be • Consider current fashion trends.
completed quickly
• Use brightly colored yarns
• Have extra supplies on hand

4. Keep the lessons short to accommodate

the short attention span of children.

5. Don’t expect perfection. They are trying.

That is what is important. Praise them! Find
something to compliment:

• “I like that yarn color!”

• “You have been a good listener today!”
• “I like the way you are holding your
crochet hook!”
• REMEMBER KEEP IT FUN !!!

1
 CROCHETING PROJECT
The purpose of the 4-H program is to help youth learn technical skills and life
skills that will improve their lives. Technical skills relate to the subject matter,
while life skills are those abilities used in every facet of our lives. Life skills
developed through these 4-H activity guide projects include: planning and
organizing, decision making, learning to learn, wise use of resources.

4-H EXPERIENTAL
LEARNING MODEL
Do - What did you do?

You will learn to:

• Tie a slip knot
• Chain
• Single crochet
• Double crochet
• Half double crochet
• Treble crochet
• Increase and decrease stitches
• Recognize stitches and know the difference
between stitch and space
• Slip a stitch
• Attach yarn and change colors
• Fasten off
• Count stitches and rows
• Join seams
• Learn abbreviations used in pattern directions
• Read and follow pattern directions

Reflect - How do you feel about your project?

What part of the experiences was the most challenging or easiest?

Apply - Using the skills listed above you will practice and complete a project.

Potential Projects or Exhibits:

• Pot holder
• Slippers
• Dishcloth
• Purse, baby bassinette purse
• Hat, scarf, or mittens
• Small afghan for a baby or a lap blanket
• Crocheted edge patterns
• Any other crochet items from patterns found in books, Internet, etc.

2
CROCHETING TOOLS
Proper tools are necessary in crocheting. Learn about the tools before you
buy so you will select good equipment.

CROCHET HOOK
A crochet hook is the first tool required.
Crochet patterns tell the size of hooks to use.
Your leader will help you decide what hooks
to use for your first project.

MEASURING TOOLS
For measuring you will need a ruler (either
6 or 12 inch), a measuring tape, or a metal-
measuring gauge.

SCISSORS
Keep a small pair of scissors or shears handy
for cutting yarn, trimming pompoms, etc. Be
sure to keep scissors in a case for safety.

TAPESTRY NEEDLE
A blunt-pointed tapestry needle is used for
sewing seams. A straight, steel needle is best.
Some tapestry needles have a “hump” around
the eye. They are not good for joining seams
in crocheting as the hump catches on stitches
and makes it hard to pull the yarn through.

3
 YARN & GAUGE
YARN

Yarns are available in a variety of weights (thickness of the strands) and fiber contents.
For best results, use the yarn specified in the instructions. Be sure to purchase all the
yarn you need for a project at the same time because dye lots may vary a little in shading
and this will show on the finished project. If you are combining different types of yarn in
the same project, make sure they have similar washing instructions. Care instructions are
found on the product label—follow them carefully. Always make sure to make a swatch
to measure the gauge.

GAUGE

Gauge is the number of stitches (and spaces) per inch and the number of rows (or rounds)
per inch. In many patterns, gauge is specified over 4 inches. Your gauge and the gauge
specified in the pattern must be the same so that your project will be the correct size. This
is especially crucial for projects that must fit.

Before starting your project, take the time to make a gauge swatch. To check gauge, use
the same yarn, hook and pattern stitch specified in the instructions. Make a swatch that is
approximately 6 inches square. Work in pattern for about 6 inches, then bind off. Let the
swatch relax for a bit, then flatten it without stretching to measure.

Using pins, mark off a section of stitches in the center of the swatch that measures 4 inches
square. Count the number of stitches and rows in this 4 inch section. If they match the gauge,
you can start right in on your pattern.

If you have too few stitches, you are working too loosely—change to smaller hook and make
another swatch. If you have too many stitches, you are working too tightly—change to larger
hook. Keep making swatches and experimenting with hook sizes until you obtain the specified
gauge. Everyone crochets differently, this will help you be able to make a project that fits.
Each skein of yarn has the yarn size and suggested hook on the label. You will want to keep
the label for your reference.

Threads are also use to crochet. Crochet thread is generally used for dollies, table cloths, table
toppers or as an edge on a project. The most commonly used thread is a number 10 size
thread. The larger the thread number, the finer the thread, so 20 is finer than 10, and 30 is
finer than 20. You will want to use a thread hook for this type of crocheting. A “0” hook
works well with a size 10 thread.

4
WORKING FROM A PATTERN
Patterns are written in a language of their own, and this will help you become familiar with
special stitches and abbreviations. Although not all publications use the same abbreviations,
the terminology will become familiar with a read-through.

ABBREVIATIONS
These are standard abbreviations that may appear in this booklet. Any abbreviations specific
to a pattern will be given at the beginning of the pattern.

beg - begin(ning) RS - right side

ch - chain WS - wrong side
sc - single crochet tog - together
dc - double crochet *, **, + or ++ - repeat whatever follows
the *, **, + or ++ as indicated
hdc - half double crochet
[ ] - work instructions in brackets
tr - treble crochet
the number of times indicated.
st - stitch(es)
sl - slip
sk - skip
yo - yarn over
in - increase
rep - repeat
rnd(s) - round(s)
lp - loop

5
 ROLLING YARN INTO A BALL THAT
PULLS FROM CENTER
Some yarns come in hanks, some are pre-wound and pull from the center.
Rolling a ball that pulls from the center is a good skill to have.

SUPPLIES NEEDED:
Hank of yarn or loose yarn

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

If you are rolling a ball from a hank of yarn,

carefully untie the hank, keeping it in the large
loop. Have someone hold it for you, or drape the
loop over the back of a chair or over your knees.

Step #2:

Holding the loose end of yarn firm with your

thumb, roll the yarn around three fingers very
loosely 10-12 times.

Step #3:

Slip the yarn off your fingers and hold it firmly in

the center with the free end of the yarn hanging
loose.

Step #4:

Now very loosely wrap the yarn around the part

you rolled on your fingers about 10-12 times. If
you pull the yarn too tightly, it will not pull free
from the center of the ball when you are ready to
knit or crochet, and it may also take some of the
stretch out of the yarn. Be sure not to catch the
free end while wrapping the yarn.

6
Step #5:

Now that you have formed the base for your ball,
hold your thumb on the spot where the free end
of yarn is coming out and your fingers are on
the opposite side. (We will call the side with your
thumb the top and the other side the bottom.)
Hold the free end of yarn in the palm of your
hand with your little finger.

Step #6:

Now, gently wind yarn from the bottom, toward

you, across top of ball, keeping the yarn close
to your thumb. Keep turning the ball slowly
counter-clockwise. Be very careful to keep your
thumb in the hole you form as you wind, and
keep the free end of yarn free. Be sure you wind
the ball loosely. Always wind from bottom across
top—never around sides. If the ball becomes too
pointed on the bottom, squeeze it more tightly
between thumb and fingers.

Step #7:

When the yarn is all wound, tuck the end under

several loops of yarn. When you are ready to
crochet, the free end you hold in the palm of
your hand will pull out easily and the ball will not
roll away.

7
 LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
HOLDING THE YARN AND HOOK
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

There are no hard and fast rules about the

best way to hold the hook and yarn. Choose
whichever way you find the most comfortable.
Some people prefer the “pencil grip.” The hook
is held in the right hand as if holding a pencil.

Step #2:

Some people prefer using the “knife grip.” The

hook is held in the right hand as if holding a
dinner knife ready to cut.

Step #3:

To maintain the slight tension in the yarn

necessary for easy, even stitches, you may find it
helpful to wrap the yarn around the fingers of
the hand opposite the one holding the hook. Try
one of these ways, or find another way that feels
comfortable to you.

Step #4:

In the illustration to the right, the left hand holds

your crochet work and at the same time controls
the tension of the yarn. The left-hand middle
finger is used to manipulate the yarn, while the
index finger and thumb hold on to the work.

Step #5:

Some people find it more comfortable to

manipulate the yarn with the index finger and
hold the project with their thumb and middle
finger. While you’re learning, if one ways feels
awkward, try another way until you find the one
that suits you.

8
FOUNDATION CHAIN - SLIP KNOT
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Make a circle with yarn or thread.

Step #2 and 3:

Pull a loop through the circle.

Step #4:

Insert the hook in the loop.

Step #5:
Pull gently and evenly to close the loop and slide
the knot up to the hook.

9
 FOUNDATION CHAIN -YARN OVER
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook (or hold the yarn still and maneuver the
hook). This movement of the yarn over the hook is used over and over again in crochet and
is usually called “yarn over,” abbreviated as “yo.”

FOUNDATION CHAIN - CHAIN STITCH

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop already on the hook to form a new loop. Be
careful not to tighten the previous loop.

Step #2:

Repeat to form the number of chains specified in the instructions. Do not count the slip
knot as a stitch.

10
FOUNDATION CHAIN - WORKING
INTO THE FOUNDATION CHAIN
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

When working into the starting chain, you may work under one or two chain loops as
shown in the illustration. Either of these methods forms an even, firm bottom edge.

Some people like to work into the “bump” on the back of the chain. This forms an even,
stretchy bottom edge that is ideal for garments.

Whichever method of working into the foundation you choose, be consistent. Work all the
pieces of a project in the same manner.

11
 LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
SLIP STITCH
This is the shortest of all crochet stitches. Unlike other stitches, slip stitches are not usually
used on their own to produce a fabric. The slip stitch is used for joining, shaping and, where
necessary, to move the yarn to another part of the fabric for the next stage.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Insert the hook into the work (shown in the second chain from hook in the illustration).

Step #2 and 3:

Yarn over and pull the yarn through both the work and the loop on the hook in one movement.

Step #4 and 5:

To join a chain ring with a slip stitch, insert the hook into first chain, yarn over and pull the
yarn through the work and the loop on the hook.

12
LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
SINGLE CROCHET
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Insert the hook into the work (second chain from

hook on the starting chain), * yarn over and draw
yarn through the work only.

Step #2:

Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops
on the hook.

Step #3:

One sc made. Insert hook into next stitch; repeat from *.

13
 LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (third
chain from hook on the starting chain).

Step #2:

* Yarn over and draw through the work only.

Step #3:

Yarn over again and pull yarn through all three loops
on the hook.

Step #4:

One hdc made.

Step #5:

Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from *.

14
LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
DOUBLE CROCHET
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (fourth
chain from hook on starting chain).

Step #2:

*Yarn over and draw yarn through the work only.

Step #3:

Yarn over and pull yarn through the first two loops
only on the hook.

Step #4:

Yarn over and pull yarn through the last two loops on
the hook.

Step #5:

One dc made. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch;

repeat from *.

15
 LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
TREBLE CROCHET
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Yarn over twice; insert the hook into the work (fifth
chain from hook on the starting chain).

Step #2:

* Yarn over and draw yarn through the work only.

Step #3:

Yarn over again and pull yarn through the first two loops
only on the hook.

Step #4:

Yarn over again and pull yarn through the next two
loops only on the hook.

Step #5:

Yarn over again and pull yarn through the last two loops
on the hook.

Step #6:

One tr made.

Step #7:
Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch; repeat
from *.

16
LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
TURNING CHAINS
When turning a row, the first chain (turning chain) helps transition the row to the height of
the first stitch of the new row. The height of the first chain (turning chain) must match the
height of the first stitch, and the number of chains depends on the first stitch after
the chain.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Single Crochet = 1 chain

Step #2:

Half Double Crochet = 2 chains

Step #3:

Double Crochet = 3 chains

Step #4:

Treble Crochet = 4 chains

When working half double crochet or other taller stitches, the turning chain usually serves as
the first stitch. The project instructions will let you know whether or not the turning chain
is considered a stitch. When one chain is worked at the beginning of a row starting with a
single crochet stitch, it is usually for height only and is made in addition to the first stitch.

17
 LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
FASTEN OFF
INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

To fasten off the yarn permanently, cut the yarn

leaving an 8” end (longer if you need to sew
pieces together). Pull the end of the yarn through
the loop on the hook and pull gently to tighten.

LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -

JOINING IN NEW YARN
When joining in new yarn or changing color, continue working yarn until two loops of the
last stitch remain in the working yarn or color.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Yarn over with the new color of yarn and pull

the new color of yarn through to complete the
stitch.

Step #2:

Continue to work the following stitches

in the new yarn color following the
pattern instructions.

Step #3 and 4:

If you are working whole rows in different

colors, make the change during the last stitch in
the previous row, so the new color for the next
row is ready to work the turning chain.

If you are working a narrow stripe pattern, instead of cutting off the old color of yarn,
carry it loosely along the side of the fabric so that it is ready to pick up again the next time it
is needed. For wide stripe patterns, it is usually best to cut off the old color or yarn, leaving a
6” end for weaving in. Longer carries, also called “floats” are easily snagged.

18
LEARN HOW TO CROCHET -
FINISHING
Finishing methods for crochet depend largely on the end purpose of the crochet (pillow,
afghan, garment) and the yarn you use to create the piece.

WEAVE IN ENDS
Weave in ends securely before blocking pieces or sewing seams. Securely woven ends will
not come loose with wear or washing. There are several methods for weaving in ends—use
whichever one works best for you.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

Thread yarn end through a blunt tapestry needle.

Whipstitch the end around several stitches. Trim
the end close to work.

Step #2:

The woven end should be nearly invisible.

Step #3:

Another method of weaving in ends is to run

the end under several stitches, wrap it around a
stitch and then run it under several more stitches.
For even more security, reverse the direction and
weave back under and over a few more stitches.
Trim the end close to work.

19
 SEAMS
Various methods can be used to join pieces of crochet and, again, the use of the finished
item often dictates the assembly method. Sewn seams can be invisible or decorative. Below
are a few suggestions for joining pieces of crochet.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1:

To join with an invisible sewn seam, place pieces edge to edge with the wrong sides facing
up and whipstitch together.

Step #2:
To join invisibly using a crochet hook, place right sides of pieces together and slip stitch
through one loop of each piece as illustrated.

20
PATTERNS:
SINGLE CROCHET DOUBLE HOTPAD
This simple crocheted hot pad folds in on itself to create a double thickness to
protect hands from the heat.

SINGLE CROCHET DOUBLE HOTPAD

Directions are given to make single crochet
double hotpad.

MATERIALS
• 4 oz. worsted weight yarn
• Crochet hook size G or size needed for gauge
MEASUREMENTS
• Gauge 7 sts=2”
• Ch 35.

INSTRUCTIONS
Sc in same sp as last ch and in each ch across, 2 sc in corner and then sc across other side
of starting ch.

• Do not join rows.

• Continue to work around both sides of chain, sc in each sc
around picking up back loop only.
• Repeat until the hotpad becomes a double square. The hotpad will bow in on itself
making it double.
• End at edge of square, ch 7 (hanging loop) attach ch to the first chain with sl st.
• Place edges together evenly and sl st along the opening.

21
 PATTERNS:
CROCHETED HOUSE SLIPPERS
This is a project for making fun crocheted house slippers.

CROCHETED HOUSE SLIPPERS

Directions are given for small size with medium and
large sizes in parentheses.

MATERIALS
• A double strand of 4 ply yarn (knitting
worsted) in used throughout. For adult size
you will need 2 skeins of yarn.
• Crocket hook size ‘I’ for small size and size
‘J’ for medium and large size, or any size that
will match gauge.

MEASUREMENTS
• Small women’s (shoe size 5-6) length 9” finished
• Medium (shoe size 7-8) length 9-3/4” finished
• Large (shoe size 9-10) length 10-1/2” finished

INSTRUCTIONS
• Row 1: Ch 1, (21,22), sc in 5th ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch across, ch4, turn. (ch 4
lps form the casing for the tie).
• Row 2: Working in back lp only, sc in each sc across, ch 4, turn.
• Row 3 through 13 (13-15): Repeat row 2, DO NOT ch 4 st end of last row.
• Row 14 (14-16): Work in back lp only, dc in each sc across (do not ch 3), turn.
• Row 15 (15-17): (Make a loose back post for first st.) Dc around back post of each dc, turn.
• Row 16 (16-18): (Make a loose front post for first st). Dc around front post of each post st
across, turn.
• Row 17 (17-19): (Make a loose back post for first st). Dc around back post of each post st
across, turn.
• Row 18 (18-20): (Make a loose front post for first st.) Dc around front of each post st
across, turn.
• Row 19 (19-21): (Make a loose back post st for first st.) Dc around back of each post st
across, turn.
• Row 20 (20-22): Skip first dc, pull up a lp in next st, *skip next st, pull up a lp in next: repeat
from * across, yo and pull through all lps on hook. Pull tight, ch1 and fasten off. Sew ends of
dc rows together. Sew heel edge together. Turn right side out.
• Tie: Leave 7” thread Ch 110, fasten off, leaving 7” thread. Thread through casings formed
by ch 4 lps.
• Pompoms: Make two small pompoms and tie one to each end of ties. (See Page 36.)

22
PATTERNS:
BASIC CROCHET SLIPPERS
This is a project for making basic crochet slippers.

MATERIALS
• 2 skeins worsted weight yarn
• Crochet hook side J (small),
K (medium), or N (Large)

MEASUREMENTS
• Gauge 6 sts = 2”
• Chain 59 (Leave a long enough tail to sew
the bottom seam.)

INSTRUCTIONS
• Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across (58 SC) ch 1, turn.
• Row 2: Working in the back loops, sc in first 25 sc, sc in both loops for 8 sc, sc in back
loops of the last 25 sc.
• Ch 1, turn (Sc in back loops throughout, except for the middle 8 st).
• Row 3-14: Repeat Row 2.
• Tie off. (Leave a long enough strand of yarn to sew up 15 stitches.) With right sides
together, sew the bottom seam and tie off. Sew the first 15 stitches of the top seam
together and tie off. Attach a double strand of yarn at the toe opening, gather up, pull
tight, knot closed and weave in ends.

Cuff:
• Turn the slipper right side out. Attach yarn with a slip stitch to any sc.
• Row 1 CH 1, sc around. Join with a ss, ch 1, turn.
• Rows 2 & 3: Working in back loop only, sc around, Join with ss, ch 1. Turn. At end of
row 3, join with ss and tie off.

23
 PATTERNS:
SOLID DISHCLOTH
Cotton yarn is a good choice to use for a dishcloth. It is absorbent, stronger
wet than dry, machine washable and can be bleached if needed. This
pattern uses a cluster stitch that creates a texture in the cloth for scrubbing.

MATERIALS
• Size 3 crochet thread: 1 ball desired color for solid
dishcloth or 1 ball each of two colored
for striped dishcloth.
• Crochet Hook: 3.5mm (US E-4)

MEASUREMENTS
• Dishcloths measure 9 ½” x 9”.
• Gauge: 21 dc = 4 inches
• CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.

SPECIAL STITCH
• Cluster (CL): keeping last loop of each dc on hook, dc in next 3 sts; YO and draw
through all 4 loops on hook.

INSTRUCTIONS
• Ch 48
• Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch (47 sc). Ch 2 (counts as first dc
on following rows), turn.
• Row 2 (RS): DC in each sc. Ch 4, turn.
• Row 3: Ch over next 3 dc, ch 2; * CL over next 3 dc, ch 2; rep from * to turning ch, dc in
2nd ch of turning ch. Ch 2, turn.
• Row 4:
• Row 5: Sc in each dc to turning ch-2, sc in 2nd ch of turning ch. Ch 2, turn.
• Row 6: Dc in each sc. Ch 1, turn.
• Row 7: Rep Row 5
• Row 8: Dc in each sc. Ch 4, turn.
• Rep Rows 3-8 three times more.
• Rep Rows 3-6. At end of Row 6, Ch 1, turn.

Border:
3 sc first sc for corner, sc in each sc to last sc, 3 sc in last sc for corner, sc along next edge in
ends of rows to beg ch, working in unused loops of beg ch, 3 sc in first loop for corner, sc
in each loop to last loop, 3 sc in loop for corner, sc along next edge in ends of rows to first
sc. Join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

24
PATTERNS:
STRIPED DISHCLOTH
Cotton yarn is a good choice to use for a dishcloth. It is absorbent, stronger
wet than dry, machine washable and can be bleached if needed. This
pattern uses a cluster stitch that creates a texture in the cloth for scrubbing
and teaches how to change yarn colors in a project.
MATERIALS
• Size 3 crochet thread: 1 ball desired color for
solid dishcloth or 1 ball each of two colors
for striped dishcloth
• Crochet Hook: 3.5mm (US E-4)

MEASUREMENTS
• Dishcloths measure 9 ½” x 9”.
• Gauge: 21 dc = 4 inches
• CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.

SPECIAL STITCH
• Cluster (CL): keeping last loop of each dc on hook, dc in next 3 sts; YO and draw
through all 4 loops on hook.

INSTRUCTIONS
• With color A, Ch 48.
• Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch (47 sc). Ch 2 (counts as first dc
on following rows), turn.
• Row 2 (RS): Dc in each sc, changing to color B in last sc. Ch 4, turn. Cut color A.
• Row 3: CL over next 3 dc, Ch 2; * CL over next 3 dc, Ch 2; Ch 2; rep from * to turning
ch, dc in 2nd ch of turning ch. Ch 2, turn.
• Row 4: * 3 Dc in top of next CL; repeat from * to last st; skip next 2 ch of ch-4, dc in
next ch, changing to color A in last dc. Ch 1, turn. Cut color B.
• Row 5: Sc in each dc to turning ch-2, sc in 2nd ch of turning ch. Ch 2, turn.
• Row 6: Dc in each sc. Ch 1, turn.
• Row 7: Rep Row 5.
• Row 8: Dc in each sc, changing to color B in last dc. Ch 4, turn. Cut color A.
• Rep Rows 3-8 three times more.
• Rep Rows 3-6. At end of Row 6, Ch1, turn.

Border:
3 sc first sc for corner, sc in each sc to last sc, 3 sc in last sc for corner, sc along next edge in
ends of rows to beg ch, working in unused loops of beg ch, 3 sc in first loop for corner, sc
in each loop to last loop, 3 sc in loop for corner, sc along next edge in ends of rows to first
sc. Join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

25
 PATTERNS:
FIRST HAT
Create a fast and easy vertical striped hat.

MATERIALS
• Medium weight yarn: 1 skein desired color
• Crochet Hook: 6mm (US J-10)
• Extras: Yarn Needle

MEASUREMENTS
• Hat measures 17 ¾“ in circumference. Hat will stretch to accommodate larger head sizes.
• Gauge: 17 sts = 4”; 14 rows = 4”
• CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS
• Chain 50.
• Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd chain from hook, *chain 1, skip next chain; sc in next chain,
repeat from * 24 times, turn – 25 single crochet, 24 chain– 1 space.
• Row 2: Chain 1, sc in first sc, sc in next chain- 1 space, *chain 1 skip next sc, sc in next
chain- 1 space; repeat from * across to last sc; sc in last sc, turn.
• Row 3: Chain 1, sc in first sc, * chain 1, skip next sc, sc in next chain- 1 space; repeat from
* across to last 2 sc; chain 1, skip next sc, sc in last sc, turn.
• Rows 4-61: Repeat Rows 2 and 3.
• Row 62: Fold piece in half, matching Row 61 to opposite side of foundation chain; Chain
1, working through both thicknesses at same time, slip stitch in each sc and in each chain - 1
space across. Fasten off.

Finishing:
With yarn needle, weave a 10” length of yarn through ends of rows at top of hat and pull
tight. Sew opening closed. Turn hat right side out and turn up edge of cuff.

Optional: Make a pompom and attach it to the top. Hook for loop. Fasten off. (See Page 36.)

26
PATTERNS:
EASY SCARF
Create a warm, thick textured scarf using a double and single crochet stitch.

MATERIALS
• Medium weight yarn: 2 skeins desired color.
• Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
• Extras: Yarn needle

MEASUREMENTS
• Gauge: 12 sts = 4”; 12 rows = 4”
• CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS
• Chain 21.
• Row 1: Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, [dc in next chain, sc in next chain] across
the row, dc in last chain, turn. (10 sc, 10 dc)
• Row 2: Chain 1, sc in first stitch, [dc in next stitch, sc in next stitch] across the row, dc in
last stitch, turn.
• Rows 3-144: repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

27
 PATTERNS:
CROCHETED MITTENS
Crochet mittens are heavy and warm. Learn how to pick up stitches at the
end of each row. You will also learn how to decrease your stitches to create
a rounded top.

MATERIALS
• Child’s Version: 1 skein soft navy and shaded dusk
• Women’s Version: 1 skein each tea leaf and
Soft Navy
• Men’s Version: 1 skein tea leaf
• Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle
MEASUREMENTS
• Gauge: 16 sc = 4”; 17 rows = 4”.

INSTRUCTIONS
Directions are for child’s size 4/5 yrs. Changes for sizes women’s and men’s are in
parentheses.

Child size measures 6” around x 7½” long. Women’s size measures 7½” around x 11½”
long. Men’s size measures 9½” around x 12” long.

MITTENS:
Cuff:
Using C (B, A), ch 15 (21, 24).
• Row 1: Working in back loops only, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1, turn.
• Repeat Row 1 for a total of 18 (22, 24) rows.
• Fold cuff in half and join ends with slip st to form cuff. Do not fasten off.

Hand:
• Round 1: Working along row ends on cuff, slip st evenly around for 18 (22, 26) sts, join
round with slip st.
• Round 2: Ch 1, place marker, [sc in next 8 (10, 12) sts, 2 sc in next st] twice. Join with slip
st [20 (24, 28) sts].
• Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next 9 (11, 13) sts, 2 sc in next st] twice. Join with slip st [22 (26, 30)
sts].
• Round 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 10 (12, 14) sts, 2 sc in next st] twice. Join with slip st [24 (28,
32) sts].
• Child’s size: Proceed to next step.
• Women’s size: Ch 1, [sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] twice. Join with slip st (30 sts).

28
• Men’s size: Ch 1, [sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st] twice. Join with slip st (34 sts).
• Repeat as established, working 1 more sc before increasing each round, for 2 more rounds
(38 sts).
• Next Step: Continuing with stripe/solid pattern as set, ch 1, sc in each sc around, join
with slip st. Repeat for a total of 1 (3, 3) rounds.

Thumb Opening:
• Next round: Ch 1, [sc in next 20 (26, 32) sts, ch 4 (5, 6), skip remaining sts and join with
slip st to first st.

Upper Hand:
• Sc in each st around for 8 (10, 12) rounds [24 (31, 38) sts], decreasing 1 st on last round
for Women’s size only [24 (30, 38) sts].
• Round 1: [Sc 10 (13, 17), sc2tog] twice [22 (28, 36) sts].
• Round 2: [Sc 9 (12, 16), sc2tog] twice [20 (26, 34) sts].
• Round 3: [Sc 8 (11, 15), sc2tog] twice [18 (24, 32) sts].
• Round 4: [Sc 7 (10, 14), sc2tog] twice [16 (22, 30) sts].
• Child’s size only: Sc2tog around (8 sts), fasten off. Continue with thumb.
• Round 5: Sc in each st around.
• Round 6: [Sc 9 (13), sc2tog] twice [20 (28) sts].
• Next 2 rounds: Sc2tog around [5 (7) sts]. Fasten off at end of last round.

Thumb:
• Round 1: Join yarn to thumb opening at st closest to upper hand, ch 1, sc in each st
around, joining with slip st [8 (9, 12) sts]. Sc in each st around for 4 (7, 8) rounds.
• Next round: Sc2tog, sc to 3 sts from last st, sc last 2 sts tog [6 (7, 10) sts]. Sc2tog around,
working last st as sc on Women’s size [3 (4, 5) sts]. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

29
 PATTERNS:
BASSINETTE/PURSE FOR 6” BABY DOLL
This little purse makes a great gift. The top of the purse folds down to make the skirt
for the bassinette. The little bassinette hold a 6” baby doll.
MATERIALS
• Approx. 3 oz. of main color worsted weight yarn
• Approx. 2 oz. of contrasting worsted weight yarn
• Crochet Hook size G or size needed for gauge
• 6” baby doll
• Scissors
• Cardboard 1 1/2” X 2 1/2”

MEASUREMENTS
• Note: Beginning ch counts as first st
• Gauge: 7 sts=2”

INSTRUCTIONS

Bottom of Bassinette
• With main color, Ch 20.
• Rnd 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 16 ch; 4 dc in next ch. Working on other side of chain,
dc in next 16 ch; 3 dc in same place as first dc. Join with sl st. (40 dc)
• Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same space and dc in next 16 dc; 2 dc in next 4 dc, dc in next 16 dc; 2 dc in
next 3 dc. Join with sl st. (48 dc)

Sides
• Rnds 3-7: Ch 2, dc in each dc around. (48 dc)
Skirt
• Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc in same space and 2 dc in each dc around. (96 dc) Join with sl st. Fasten off.
• Rnd 9: Attach contrasting color, ch 7,*4 tr in every 4th dc, ch 3* around; 3 tr in same space as ch 7;
join in 4th ch of the starting ch. (24 shells).
• Rnd 10: Ch 4; 3 tr in ch 2 space; ch 3;* 4 tr in each ch 2 space, ch 3 around. Join with sl st in 4th st
of ch 4.
• Rnd 11: Ch 1; *sc in each tr; 3 sc in ch 3 space*; around. Join with sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Turn bassinette inside out. Fold back between 7th and 8th row of dc. Join contrasting yarn and sc in
each sp around. Join with sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Drawstrings (Make 2)
Chain 100 and finish off. Make 2 chains for ties. Weave through 2nd row of shells from opposite
sides. Tie with a square knot to join. Finish with a pompom.

Pompom: Cut four 4” pieces of yarn, place across cardboard lengthwise. Wrap yarn around
cardboard until desired fullness for pompom. Tie a square knot to hold together, cut across opposite
end. Tighten knot. Trim, tie on each end of chain tie. (See Page 36.)

30
PATTERNS:
BABY BLANKET
This is an easy soft and lacey blanket for a new baby. It uses only two different
stitches—the single crochet and the chain. You will be using a larger hook that
makes the blanket stitch up in a hurry.

MATERIALS
• 1 large skein of baby soft yarn
• Crochet Hook: US. M

MEASUREMENTS
• Gauge: 2 stitches to an inch and 3 rows to an inch

INSTRUCTIONS
• Row 1: Ch 91 stitches.
• Row 2: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each stitch across, ch 1 and turn.
• Row 3 – 90 sc in each stitch, ch 1 and turn. Work until the desired length is achieved

Edge:
• Row 91: *Sc in first two stitches sc in the third stitch, chain 3 and sc in the same stitch*.
This creates a little picot edge. Repeat the * pattern all the way around the outside edge of
blanket, slip stitch the last stitch to the first stitch. Weave the yarn ends in.

31
 PATTERNS:
CROCHET FELTED BAG
This fun felted purse introduces the skill of felting. You crochet the purse and
then felt it to make it more sturdy and solid.
MATERIALS
• 1 ball of color A
• 1 ball of color B
• Size K – 10.5 crochet hook
• Large- eyed blunt needle

MEASUREMENTS
• About 8 x 7 ½ x 2 in after felting
• Gauge: 12 stitches + 15 rows = 4 in. before felting in single crochet.
• BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

INSTRUCTIONS
Base:
• With “A”, chain 31.
• Row 1: single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across – 30 sc.
• Rows 2-9: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in each sc across. Work 8 sc evenly spaced across
short side of piece. Work 30 sc along opposite side of beginning chain. Work 8 sc evenly
spaced across remaining short side of piece – 76 sc around base.

Sides:
Sc in each single crochet around until bag measures 5 ½ in. from base. Fasten off “A” and
join “B.” With “B” continue in sc around until bag measures 10 in. from base. Fasten off.
Weave in ends.

Felting:

Wash by machine on a hot wash/cold rinse cycle with detergent and several pieces of
clothing to agitate. To felt additionally, dry by machine on regular setting until almost dry.
Then, remove from dryer and pull into shape.

32
PATTERNS:
CROCHETED EDGE PATTERNS
These crocheted edges are used for pillowcases, baby blankets, burp
cloths or any other edge that needs embellishment. Each edge creates a
different design and finish for your project.

HEAVY RUFFLE
• Row 1: 2 Sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Chain 3, (This counts as 1st dc), dc in the same
stitch. * 2 dc in each space*, repeat around, (expect a lot of
rippling), ss to join.
• Row 3: Ch 2, 1 sc in each space, ss to join. Finish off.

For variety, it looks good if row 1 and 3 are the same color
and row 2 is a different color.

BASIC PICOT
• Row 1: Sc in the first and second holes, 1sc* in the third
hole, then chain 3, ss in the top of the same sc you are
working on (this makes the picot), then sc in the same hole,
sc in the next 2 holes*, repeat from * to *, ss to join.
Finish off.

TRIANGLES & ARCHES

• Row 1: 1 Sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 5, (this is 1 dc and 2 ch), dc in the same stitch.
Skip 2 stitches and * dc in the third stitch, ch 2, dc in the
same stitch*. Repeat * to *, ss to join. (This makes a row
of triangles, every other one inverted)
• Row 3: * 3 dc in the upper flat part of the first (inverted)
triangle, then 1 sc in the point of the second (upright
triangle*, repeat from * to *, ss to join. Finish off.

33
 LACE & WAVES
• Row 1: 1 Sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 5, (this is 1 dc and 2 ch), dc in the same
stitch. Skip 2 stitches and * dc in the third stitch, ch 2, dc
in the same stitch*. Repeat * to *, ss to join. (This makes
a row of triangles, every other one inverted.)
• Row 3: (You will only be working in the upper flat part
of the triangles)
• *First upper triangle – 1 sc
• Second upper triangle – 4 dc
• Third upper triangle – 5 tr
• Fourth upper triangle – 4 dc*
• Repeat * to *, ss to join. Finish off.

SIMPLE EDGE
• Row 1: 1 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 2, 1sc in each stitch, ss to join. Finish off.

BASIC SHELL
• Row 1: 1 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 2, 1 sc in each stitch, ss to join.
• Row 3: Ch 2, 1 sc in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, * (6 dc in
the next stitch) skip 2 stitches, 1 sc in the next stitch, skip
2 stitches*, repeat * to *, ss to join. Finish off.

FENCE POST
• Row 1: 2 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 3 *sc in every other hole*. Repeat around,
ss to join.
• Row 3: Ch 3 (this counts as the 1st dc), dc in same
stitch, ch 2, then 2 dc in the same.
stitch. *Skip 2 stitches 2 dc in 3rd stitch, ch 2, 2 dc in
same stitch*, repeat * to *, ss to join. Finish off.

BASIC RUFFLE
• Row 1: 1 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as the 1st dc), dc in same stitch. 2
dc in each stitch around, ss to join.
• Row 3: Ch 2, then 1 sc in each stitch around, ss to join.
Finish off.

34
TWO TONE LOOPS
• Row 1: 1 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: *Ch 8, sc in the fourth stitch*. Repeat * to
* all the way around (you may need to adjust at the
end). Finish off.
• Row 3: With your other color; sc in the middle
stitch of the 3 stitches between the loops from the
second row. *Ch8, sc in the middle stitch, alternating
front and back over the loops of the second row*.
This makes a twisted loop and also helps to hold up
the loops evenly.
• Repeat * to * around. Finish off.

AMANDA’S PRIDE
• Row 1: 1 sc in each hole, ss to join.
• Row 2: *Ch 6, skip 4 stitches and sc in the 5th *.
• Repeat * to * around. Finish off.

HUGS & KISSES

• Row 1: Ss in the first hole, ch 3. Sc in the hole to the
right of the one you ss in. Skip over the hole you ss in and
also skip the next hole, sc in the next hole (you should
be moving left). *ch 3, sc in the skipped hole to the right.
Moving left skip the sc and the next hole, sc in the next
hole*. Repeat * to * around. Finish off.

35
 PATTERNS:
POMPOMS
Pompoms are fun to make and use to finish a project. Use leftover yarn
from the project to match. Some have used this method of making
pompoms using cardboard from a cereal box.

POMPOMS
Directions are given to make pompoms.

MATERIALS
• 4 oz., 4-ply worsted weight yarn (two colors)
• lightweight cardboard (from a cereal box)
• paper scissors
• shears

Step #1:

Cut two 2” circles out of lightweight cardboard. Cut a

½” opening and then cut a 3/4” circle out of the center
of each. (This will look like a ‘C’.)
Step #2:

Place two 12” lengths of yarn between cardboard.

Step #3:

Wrap yarn around cardboard starting at one end of

opening and wrapping evenly to the other side and
continue back and forth until the pompom is the desired
thickness (density).

Step #4:

Tie 12” lengths of yarn once to hold wrapped yarn

together. With shears, cut yarn between cardboard all
the way around.

Step #5:

Tie 12” lengths of yarn tightly with a square knot to

hold cut yarn firmly.

Step #6:
Trim pompom evenly and to desired size. The pompom is
ready to be added to project.

36
JUDGING SCORESHEET

37
 SERVICE PROJECT IDEAS
Now that the youth know how to crochet or knit, put the knowledge to use by making
crochet or knit donations to charity. Here are four of the most well-known charities so that
you can visit their websites, or write for information

Crochet or knit 7” or 9” squares to be put together to make an afghan.

It’s all about keeping people warm!
Warm Up America!
2500 Lowell Road
Gastonia, NC 28054
www.craftyarncouncil.com/warmup.html

Crochet or knit items for preemies, such as hats, booties, blankets and gowns:
TLC for Angels
850 Fort Plains Road
Howell, NJ 07731-1190
www.tlcforangels.tripod.com

Provide needy children with cozy hats to keep them warm.

Caps for kids–CYCA
c/o Bonnie Greene
30113 Echo Blue Drive
Penn Valley, CA 95946-9422
www.craftyarncouncil.com/caps.html

Crochet or Knit slippers to send to U.S. Troops.

Operation Toasty Toes-Slipper Project
www.operationtoastytoes8.gobot.com

Crochet or knit a blanket for a seriously ill or traumatized child or young adult.
Project Linus
P.O. Box 5621
Bloomington, IL 61702-5621
www.projectlinus.org/links.html

38
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This section is referenced from Craft Yarn Council of America -
www.craftyarncouncil.com.
• Page 1 - Teaching Your Love of Knitting to Kids (“Ten Tips from the Pros”)

The following sections and illustrations were referenced from www.redheart.com.

Used with permission.
• Page 4 - Yarn & Gauge • Page 18 - Fasten Off
• Page 8 - Holding the Yarn & Hook • Page 18 - Joining in New Yarn
• Page 9 - Slip Knot • Page 19 - Finishing
• Page 10 - Yarn Over • Page 19 - Weaving in Ends
• Page 10 - Chain Stitch • Page 20 - Seams
• Page 11 - Working Into The • Page 24 - Patterns: Solid Dishcloth
Foundation Chain • Page 25 - Patterns: Striped Dishcloth
• Page 12 - Slip Stitch • Page 26 - Patterns: First Hat
• Page 13 - Single Crochet • Page 27 - Patterns: Easy Scarf
• Page 14 - Half Double Crochet • Page 31 - Patterns: Baby Blanket
• Page 15 - Double Crochet • Page 32 - Patterns: Crochet Felted Bag
• Page 16 - Treble Crochet
• Page 17 - Turning Chains
The following sections and illustrations were referenced from “4-H Knitting Skills,
Oregon State University Extension Service, May 1973.”
• Page 2 - Crocheting Tools

The following section is referenced from “www.utah4-h.org.”

• Page 37 - Judging Scoresheet

The following sections and patterns were created by the author.

• Page 6 - Rolling Yarn Into a Ball That Pulls from Center
• Page 21 - Patterns: Single Crochet Double Hotpad
• Page 22 - Patterns: Crocheted House Slippers
• Page 23 - Patterns: Basic Crochet Slippers
• Page 28 - Patterns: Crocheted Mittens
• Page 30 - Patterns: Bassinette/Purse for 6” Baby Doll
• Page 33 - Patterns: Crocheted Edge Patterns
• Page 36 - Patterns: Pompoms

39
 SMART PHONE TAGS
Here are the website addresses to the Microsoft Tags®.

• Page 4 - Yarn & Gauge

Measuring Crochet Gauge - http://bit.ly/HqoTKK
• Page 5 - Working from a Pattern
Multiples in Crochet Patterns - http://bit.ly/Ifd9uv
Reading a Crochet Pattern - http://bit.ly/HuVfD1
• Page 9 - Slip Knot
Crochet Getting Started - http://bit.ly/Hvxxvk
• Page 11 - Working Into the Foundation Chain
Crochet Getting Started - http://bit.ly/Hvxxvk
• Page 13 - Single Crochet
Single Crochet - http://bit.ly/ImncCC
Learn Basic Left-handed Single Crochet - http://bit.ly/Hs6cpT
• Page 14 - Half Double Crochet
Taller Crochet Stitches - http://bit.ly/HHF0WH
Learn More Left-handed Crochet Stitches - http://bit.ly/ImnOId
• Page 16 - Treble Crochet
Taller Crochet Stitches - http://bit.ly/HHF0WH
• Page 17 - Turning Chains
Single Crochet and Turning Chains - http://bit.ly/ImncCC
• Page 18 - Joining in New Yarn
Joining in New Yarns and Changing Colors - http://bit.ly/Hs8S6W
• Page 19 - Weaving in Ends
Weaving In Ends - Crochet - http://bit.ly/HAWdmD
• Page 20 - Seams
Seaming Crochet - http://bit.ly/osw5sc

40
NOTES

41