The Mezzo Cardigan

You can’t beat the drape of this comfy, lightweight sweater and you’ll enjoy trying it
on as you go. (Because it’s easy to check the fit as you crochet, you’ll be sure to love
your finished cardi!)

You’ll begin by crocheting two relaxing hexagons which will magically transform into
the sleeves, back and fronts. This technique is so fun and interesting to watch come
together.

While making the Mezzo Cardigan, you’ll have a chance to practice working in the
round, crocheting puff stitches and learning how to add a knit-esque ribbing to your
sweater. Step-by-step video tutorials will guide you each step of the way.

Be sure to show off your stitches using #TheMezzoCardigan on social media!

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© Make & Do Crew
Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

• Lion Brand Coboo (Weight: 3/light - 232 yds, 3.5 oz, 100 g)

- Mauve (835-145) – 8 (9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14) skeins [(approx. 730 (850, 870, 900, 1140,
1170, 1320) g)]

• Tapestry needle

• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Approximately 20 stitch markers

Sizes:
Circumference of sweater,
Fits up to Actual Bust including collar Length (adjustable)*
S 37” 44” 25”
M 41” 47.5” 27”
L 45” 50.5” 27”
1X 49” 52.5” 27”
2X 53” 58.5” 33”
3X 57” 60.5” 33”
4X 61” 64.5” 35”

*Note that the length will extend 2-3” in addition to what’s listed due to the weight of
the garment.

Mauve sample pictured is a size M. Beige sample is a size L. There are lots of
opportunities to customize the sweater and sleeve length, so when choosing a size,
think more about how loose you want the bust to fit.

Gauge:
7 rounds of hexagon = 3.5” as measured from center of hexagon to one side,
essentially the hexagon radius.

27 dc = 7.5” as measured in Round 7 of hexagon.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

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blo – back loop only Puff - [yo, insert hook in st and pull up a
ch – chain
loop] 4 times in same st. Yo and pull
chsp – chain space
dc – double crochet through all nine loops on hook.
rem – remaining
rep – repeat Yarn over slip stitch (yoslst): yo, insert
RS – right side hook into stitch, yo, draw hook through
sc – single crochet all 3 loops on hook. When inserting
sc2tog – single crochet two together hook in a yoslst, you’re always working
(decrease) into the loop that’s farthest away from
sk – skip you.
slst(s) – slip stitch(es)
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
Yoslst2tog - yarn over slip stitch two
together
tch – turning chain

Original Pattern + Tutorial:

Find the step-by-step video tutorial and additional photos at:
MakeAndDoCrew.com/mezzo-hexagon-crochet-cardigan-pattern

Want some company while you crochet?

Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group.
Search “Make and Do Crochet Crew” on Facebook.com.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell
with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to MakeAndDoCrew.com/
Mezzo-hexagon-crochet-cardigan-pattern. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales
photos.

Overall Pattern Notes:

● Ch 3 counts as 1 dc throughout.

MAIN HEXAGONS
Notes:

● Hexagon is worked in turned rounds.

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 ● After a few rounds, hexagon will look wavy and should not be able to lay flat.
This is intentional to give enough fabric for the body and sleeves.

● Pattern refers to different sides of the hexagon by number, which is illustrated

in the chart at end of pattern. Think of these side numbers as fixed to the
orientation of looking at the right side of the hexagon. For example, Side 3 is
always Side 3, whether you flip the hexagon over or not. Side 3 does not
become Side 5, just because the hexagon is flipped to the wrong side. When
you measure gauge after Round 7, please pin name tags as shown at end of
pattern to each hexagon side. This will ensure you can easily identify hexagon
locations as described in the pattern.

● Reference stitch charts at end of pattern for extra visual clarification.

Make 2.

Foundation Round: Ch 4, slst to first ch to join, creating a ring.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 , 2 dc in ring, ch 1, [3 dc in ring, ch 1] 5 times, slst to 3rd ch from

beginning of round to join; turn. (3 dc per side)

Round 2 (WS): Ch 3, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch1sp corner, dc in next 3 dc] 5 times, (2
dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in last ch1sp corner, dc in next 2 dc, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of
round to join; turn. (7 dc per side)

Round 3 (RS): Ch 3, dc in next and each rem dc to ch2sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp
corner, dc in each dc to next ch2sp corner] 5 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in last ch2sp
corner, dc in rem dc, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. (11 dc per
side)

TIP: Count your hexagon sides now to double check you indeed have six.

Rep Round 3 four more times, turning work at the end of each round. Hexagon
should now contain 7 rounds. Each hexagon side should contain 27 double crochet.

!! GAUGE CHECK !!

Please stop and take a minute to measure your hexagon. This will ensure your
sweater is the size you expect it to be. Measure from the center of the hexagon to the

The Mezzo Cardigan - p 4

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edge of one side (radius). This should measure 3.5”. Measure several sides of the
hexagon. Each side should measure 7.5-7.75”. If your hexagon radius or each side
length is too large, decrease your hook size and rework hexagon. If your hexagon
radius is too small or each side length is too small, increase your hook size and
rework hexagon.

Once correct gauge is established, lay hexagon flat with RS facing up. (Last round
worked was a RS round.) Use stitch markers to pin side-number name tags to each
side according to the chart at end of pattern.

Extra Rounds for Sizes 2X, 3X and 4X Only:

Rep Round 3 two more times. Hexagon should now contain 9 rounds. Each hexagon
side should contain 35 double crochet.

Introducing Puff Stitch Rounds - All Sizes

● Reference Side # diagram and stitch chart at end of pattern for extra visual
clarification. (Left-handed side and corner numbers in brackets when
applicable. [ ])

Round 1 (WS - puff):

First half of Side #1: Ch 3, dc in next and each rem dc to end of side…

Corner #1: (2 dc, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #6 [2]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from *
to end of side…

Corner #6 [2]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #5 [3]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from *
to end of side…

Corner #5 [3]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner…

Side #4: Dc in each dc to end of side…

Corner #4: (2 dc, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

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 Side #3 [5]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from *
to end of side…

Corner #3 [5]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #2 [6]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from *
to end of side…

Corner #2 [6]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner…

Last Half of Side #1: Dc in each dc to beginning of round, slst to 3rd ch from
beginning of round to join; turn. [16 (16, 16, 16, 20, 20, 20) puff sts or 31 (31, 31, 31,
39, 39, 39) dc per side]

Round 2 (RS - double crochet): Ch 3, *dc in next and each rem dc to ch2sp, [(2 dc, ch
2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each puff and ch1sp to next ch2sp corner] twice, (2 dc,
ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch2sp corner; rep from * once more, dc in rem dc, slst to 3rd ch
from beginning of round to join; turn. [35 (35, 35, 35, 43, 43, 43) dc per side]

[Rep Rounds 1 and 2] 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times.

Rep Round 1 once more. Hexagon should now contain 16 (18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 24) total
rounds. The last round should contain 63 (71, 71, 71, 87, 87, 95) dc on each double
crochet side and 32 (36, 36, 36, 44, 44, 48) puff stitches on each puff stitch side.
Fasten off.

BACK + FRONT EXTENSIONS

Extra rows are now worked along a specific side on each hexagon to extend fabric
that will form the back of sweater. (And for the larger sizes, we’ll extend the Fronts
next as well.)

LEFT SIDE OF SWEATER AS WORN

Set Up Row:
Notes:

● Back = side #5, Bottom = side #4, Front = side #3

● Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: Attach
yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #5 and #6.)

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 ● You will begin by working down Side #3 (Left handed: Side #5)

Important: Begin Set-Up Row with RS facing.

Set-Up Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff**; rep from *
to ch2sp corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc along side #4, (2 dc,
ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in puff, rep from * to ** along Side #5 (Left handed: Side
#3), 1 dc in ch2sp corner; turn.

Keep yarn attached. (Left handed: Keep yarn attached for Left Front. Attach a new
ball of yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4 for Left Back.)

Sides should now contain the following number of double crochet:

Side #3: 66 (74, 74, 74, 90, 90, 98) dc
Side #4: 67 (75, 75, 75, 91, 91, 99) dc
Side #5: 66 (74, 74, 74, 90, 90, 98) dc

Left Back:

With attached yarn, Left Back is worked along side #5 only in order to extend the
width of the back of sweater.

Note: Beginning and end of puff rows are slightly different from established
pattern—there is no chain one between the dc at each edge and the first/last puff.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next
dc; rep from * to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [33 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from
* to tch, dc in tch; turn. [67 (75, 75, 75, 91, 91, 99) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to
tch, dc in tch; turn. [33 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

[Rep Rows 2 and 3] 2 (2, 2, 3, 2, 3, 3) more times. Left Back should now contain 8 (8, 8,
10, 8, 10, 10) total rows, including Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

Left Front:

Sizes S/M and M/L: Skip to Right Side of Sweater Extensions section, there is no front
extension for these sizes. (Left handed: Fasten off yarn from Set-Up Row for these
sizes only.)

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Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X: Work front extension as follows.

Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4. (Left handed: Use yarn still
attached from Set Up Row.)

Note: As with Back Extension, the beginning and end of puff rows are slightly
different from established pattern. (There is no chain space between the dc at each
edge and the first/last puff.)

Left Front is worked along side #3 only in order to extend the circumference of the
sweater bust.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), puff in first dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from
* to tch, dc in tch; turn. [- (-, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff, rep from
* to last puff, dc in tch; turn. [- (-, 75, 75, 91, 91, 99) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to
tch, dc in tch; turn. [- (-, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Left Front should now contain - (-, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) total rows, including Set-Up Row. If
you’re large-chested proportional to the rest of your body, consider repeating Rows
2-3 twice more for more generous bust coverage. Fasten off.

RIGHT SIDE OF SWEATER AS WORN

Set-Up Row:
Notes:

● Back = Side #3, Bottom = Side #4, Front = Side #5

● Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: Attach
yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #5 and #6.)

● You will begin by working down Side #3 (Left handed: Side #5)

Important: Begin Set-Up Row with RS facing.

Set-Up Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff**; rep from *
to ch2sp corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc along side #4, (2 dc,

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ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp, rep from * to ** along Side #5 (Left handed: Side #3), 1 dc in
2chsp corner; turn. Do not fasten off.

Keep yarn attached. (Left handed: Keep yarn attached for Right Back. Attach a new
ball of yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #4 and #5.)

Sides should now contain the following number of double crochet:

Side #3: 66 (74, 74, 74, 90, 90, 98) dc
Side #4: 67 (75, 75, 75, 91, 91, 99) dc
Side #5: 66 (74, 74, 74, 90, 90, 98) dc

Right Front:

Sizes S, M: Fasten off. Skip to Right Back section, there is no front extension for these
sizes. (Left handed: keep yarn attached and skip to Right Back section for these 2
sizes.)

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X: Work front extension as follows.

Note: As with previous extensions, the beginning and end of puff rows are slightly
different from established pattern. (There is no chain space between the dc at each
edge and the first/last puff.)

Right Front is worked along side #5 only in order to extend the circumference of the
sweater bust.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), puff in first dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from
* to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [- (-, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from
* to tch, dc in tch; turn. [- (-, 75, 75, 99, 99, 107) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to
tch, dc in tch; turn. [- (-, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Left Front should now contain - (-, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) total rows, including Set-Up Row. If
you’re large-chested proportional to the rest of your body, consider repeating Rows
2-3 twice more for more generous bust coverage. (Only if this was done on the Left
Front.) Fasten off.

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 Right Back:

Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4. (Left handed: Use attached
yarn that was set aside earlier.) Right Back is worked along side #3 only in order to
extend the width of the back of sweater.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next
dc; rep from * to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [33 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from
* to tch, dc in tch; turn. [67 (75, 75, 75, 99, 99, 107) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to
tch, dc in tch; turn. [33 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45, 49) puffs]

[Rep Rows 2 and 3] 2 (2, 2, 3, 2, 3, 3) more times. Right Back should now contain 8 (8,
8, 10, 8, 10, 10) total rows, including the Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

JOINING SLEEVES
With RS facing together, use stitch markers to pin Sides #2 and #6 together (and
Front + Back Extensions for sizes L-4X). Take care to line up puff stitches on either
side of hexagon sides. Bottom = Hexagon that is closest to your body during seaming
process. (Side #2.) (Left-handed: Side #6.)

Top = Hexagon that is above bottom hexagon and further from your body. (Side #6.)
(Left-handed: Side #2.)

Sizes S, M:

● The joining process is identical for right and left sleeves.

At neckline, attach yarn in corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: attach
yarn in corner between Sides #5 and #6.)

Joining Row (WS): Ch 3, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst
to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in next sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent sp on
Top Hex; rep from * until 1 puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on Bottom Hex,

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slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp on Top
Hex. Keep yarn attached and proceed to Sleeve section.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X:

Joining Right Sweater Side As Worn: In Back Extension, attach yarn in raw double
crochet row aligned with where Right Front edge ends. Then proceed with joining
row with the WS of the sweater facing out.

Joining Left Sweater Side As Worn: Attach yarn in top corner of Front Extension.
Then proceed with joining row with the WS of the sweater facing out.

Joining Row (WS):

Along Back/Front Extensions: Ch 3, slst to raw dc row edge on Top Hex, *dc in
next puff row edge on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff row edge on Top
Hex, dc in next dc row edge on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent dc row edge on
Top Hex; rep from * to hexagon corners…

Continuing Along Hexagon Sides: ...dc in ch2sp on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp
on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex,
dc in next sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent sp on Top Hex; rep from * until 1
puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent
puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex. Keep
yarn attached and proceed to Sleeve section.

SLEEVES
● Right and left sleeves are worked identically.

Main Sleeve:

Yarn is still attached from joining sleeves. Turn sweater RS out. Sleeve is worked in
turned rounds along Side #1.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc in corner sp), dc in each dc around sleeve, dc in

ch2sp corner, 2 dc in sleeve seam, slst to top of ch-3 from beginning of round to join;
Turn. [67 (75, 75, 75, 91, 91, 99) dc]

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Round 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc in each dc, slst to top of ch-3 from beginning of round to join;
turn.

Rep Round 2 until there are 10 (8, 8, 8, 6, 6, 4) rounds total.

We will now reduce the circumference of the sleeve.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, PM in created st, sc2tog over next 2 dc, sc2tog to end
of round, slst to marked st to join; do not turn. [34 (38, 38, 38, 46, 46, 50) sc]

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X Only:

Round 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, PM in created st, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from *
around until 1 sc rem, sc in last st, slst to marked st to join. Keep yarn attached..." [- (-,
29, 29, 35, 35, 38) sc]

Sizes S, M Only:

Round 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog, PM in created st, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 (1) sts; rep from *
around, slst to marked st to join..." [25 (25, -, -, -, -, -) sc]

Ribbing:

● Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sleeve. Ribbing is attached as it’s

crocheted by slip stitching to the sleeve.

● Each yarn over slip stitch (yoslst) is worked through the back loop only (blo) of
the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from
the wrist), the last stitch of the row is worked through two loops, both the
middle loop and the back loop. This creates a tidier-looking edge.

Foundation: With attached yarn, ch 12.

Row 1 (RS): Yoslst in second ch from hook, yoslst in each rem ch, slst to wrist st where
yarn was attached, slst to next wrist st; turn. (11 yoslsts + 2 sl sts on wrist)

TIP: Count your yoslsts here to ensure there are 11. Recount periodically as you work
ribbing because yoslsts can be easy to accidentally drop along the way.

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along wrist, yoslst in the blo of each yoslst until 1
remains, yoslst through both loops of the last st; turn.

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Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst in the blo of each st, slst to next unworked wrist st, slst to next
wrist st; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Sizes S, M, 4X Only:

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 1 st on wrist remains after completing a Row 3.

Rep Rows 4 and 3 once more, ending Row 3 with one slip stitch in rem wrist st and
one slip stitch into wrist st where yarn was originally attached at beginning of cuff.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all sts on wrist have been used, ending after completing a
Row 3.

All Sizes:

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail for joining ribbing seam.

Joining Cuff: With WS facing, use tapestry needle and yarn tail to whip stitch first
and last row of ribbing together. Weave in end and fasten off.

Repeat entirety of Sleeve instructions on opposite sweater side.

JOINING BACK
With RS facing together, use stitch markers to pin Right and Left back extensions
together. Take care to line up puff stitches on either side. Attach yarn in first dc at
bottom corner of back extension on the RIGHT side of the sweater, as worn. (Left
handed: Attach yarn in first dc at bottom corner of back extension on the LEFT side of
the sweater, as worn.)

Bottom: Hexagon that is closest to your body during seaming process.

Top: Hexagon that is above bottom hexagon and further from your body.

TIP: The point here is to join the hexagons together using a row of what looks like
double crochet when it’s finished. The important part is that this is worked on the
WS of the sweater. Beyond that though, which corner it starts in is less important.

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Joining Row (WS): Ch 3, slst to first dc on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex,
slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in next ch1sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent
ch1sp on Top Hex; rep from * until 1 puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on
Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to
equivalent dc on Top Hex. Fasten off.

BOTTOM EXTENSION
Notes:

● We will now extend the length of the sweater. This is a good place for
customization as you can try on your sweater and simply stop crocheting rows
when you’ve reached your desired length. (Be sure to end with a Row 2 at
desired length, then work Row 13.) The cropped Beige sample on p17, for
example, contains only two double crochet extension rows before Row 13 was
worked.

● Keep in mind, ribbing will add approximately 2.5” to the overall length and you
can expect the length to stretch a bit with wear.

● The exact stitch count for Row 1 is less important than having the row lay flat.
If necessary, modifying the number of stitches or exact placement will not
affect outcome of Row 1.

● Row 1 is worked with the WS facing along entire bottom edge of sweater.

Attach yarn in bottom front corner of Right side of sweater. This is the corner
between Sides #4 and #5 for sizes S and M and the edge of the Front Extension for
sizes L, 1X, 2X 3X, 4X. (Left handed: Attach yarn in bottom front corner of Left side of
sweater. This is the corner between Sides #3 and #4 for sizes S and M and the edge
of the Front Extension for sizes L, 1X, 2X 3X, 4X.)

Sizes S, M Only:

Row 1 (WS):

Along first hexagon side: Ch 3, dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner…

Along puff stitch section: *2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from * to last
puff, 2 dc in last puff…

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Along second hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, 2 dc in last ch2sp
corner; turn.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X Only:

Row 1 (WS):

Along front puff stitch section: Ch 3, dc in first dc raw edge, *2 dc in puff raw edge, dc
in dc raw edge; rep from * to last puff, 2 dc in last puff…

Along first hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner…

Along back puff stitch section: **2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from **
to last puff, 2 dc in last puff…

Along second hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner...

Along front puff stitch section: ***2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from **
to end of row, 1 more dc in dc raw edge; turn.

All Sizes:

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end of row; turn.

Rows 3–12: Rep Row 2. (Even rows are RS, odd rows are WS.)

Bottom extension should now contain 12 total rows. We will now slightly cinch in the
bottom of the sweater to create a mild tightening before adding the ribbing band.
For a flowier sweater, work a basic row of single crochet with no decreasing.

Row 13 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end of row,
placing last sc in tch; turn.

Ribbing:

● Ribbing is created using same technique as Sleeves.

● Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sweater. Ribbing is attached as it’s

created by slip stitching to sweater bottom.

● Each yarn over slip stitch (yoslst) is worked through the back loop only (blo) of
the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from

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 sweater), the last stitch of the row is worked through two loops, both the
middle loop and the back loop.

● Pay attention to the RS/WS designation of row as it will help clarify which side
of sweater is facing in each row.

● If shorter sweater is desired, consider modifying Foundation Chain length to 9

ch. (This will create a bottom ribbing of 8 sts tall as pictured in the Beige
sample on p17.)

Foundation: With attached yarn, ch 14.

Row 1 (RS): Yoslst in second ch from hook, yoslst in each st, slst to first sweater dc, slst
to next sweater dc; turn. (13 yoslsts + 2 sl sts on sweater)

TIP: Count your yoslsts here to ensure there are 13. Recount periodically as you work
ribbing because yoslsts can be easy to accidentally drop along the way.

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along sweater bottom, yoslst in the blo of each
yoslst until 1 rem, yoslst through both loops of the last st; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst in each st, slst to next unworked sweater dc, slst to next
sweater dc; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 to end of sweater bottom, ending with a Row 4. This may require
slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along sweater bottom on the final repeat.
It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 4. This will position the yarn
at the bottom point of the RIGHT front of sweater. (Left handed: LEFT front of
sweater.) Do not fasten off.

FINAL TOUCHES
Collar Ribbing:
Notes:

● Collar is worked in long rows from bottom front corner, around neck to bottom
front corner on opposite side.

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© Make & Do Crew
With attached yarn, the collar foundation row is worked with RS facing up first front,
along back of neck and down second front.

Collar Foundation Row (RS): Ch 1, sc evenly around (up first front, along back of neck
and down second front); turn. PM in first and last sc along the back of neck section.
See photo on p22.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, *yoslst through both loops of each sc* to st before next marker,
sc2tog through the blo of next sc and marked sc, work between * and * to next
marked st, sc2tog over marked sc and next sc, rep between * and * to end; turn. Move
markers up to yoslst2tog.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst through the back loop only of each st, working a yoslst2tog
decrease through the blo at both markers; turn.

Rep Row 2 six times. Note: It’s not essential that the yoslst2tog decreases on either
side of the neck line up perfectly with the previous row. Estimating their location is
fine. Fasten off.

Pockets:

Make 2.

Foundation Row: Ch 24.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from the hook, dc in each ch; turn. (22 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc; turn.

Rep row 2 eleven more times. Pocket should now contain 13 rows. Fasten off.

With WS facing and pocket upside down, attach yarn in the bottom of the first stitch
of Row 1.

Finishing Row (WS): Ch 1, yoslst in the foundation ch of each st. Fasten off, leaving a
long tail for sewing.

Attaching Pockets:

Attach pockets to sweater using stitch markers. Finishing row should be facing
upward. Take care to line up the RS/WS rows with corresponding rows on sweater.

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© Make & Do Crew
With tapestry needle and leftover yarn tail, whip stitch pocket in place. Repeat with
second pocket in identical location on opposite sweater front.

Light Blocking:

It can be helpful to steam block your sweater. Simply lay your cardigan out flat and
use a steamer or iron with a steam setting to direct steam at the fabric from 4-6"
away. (Do not touch the steamer/iron to the yarn.) Focus specifically on where the
hexagons are joined at the shoulders and back.

Don your new handmade cardi with pride knowing there’s not another one out
there that’s exactly the same!

We love to see your finished projects! Use #TheMezzoCardigan + #MakeAndDoCrew and

tag us on Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches.

Lion Brand Yarn Coboo in the color “Beige”

The Mezzo Cardigan - p 18

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The Mezzo Cardigan - p 22
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The Mezzo Cardigan - p 28
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MAIN HEXAGON STITCH CHART 1 - double crochet rounds

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© Make & Do Crew
MAIN HEXAGON STITCH CHART 2 - introducing puff stitch rounds

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 LABELS FOR HEXAGON SIDES

Left/Right designation refers to the half of the sweater the label is attached to

(not if you’re right or left-handed)

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© Make & Do Crew
Additional FREE crochet patterns by Make & Do Crew:

1. The Habitat Cardigan - easy crochet sweater made from a simple rectangle +
video tutorial
2. The Campfire Cardigan - fun pattern mattern made from two granny stitch
hexagons
3. Day Date Cardigan - Lightweight modern cardigan with bishop sleeves +
video tutorial
4. Haven Cardigan - chunky bobble stitch cardigan made from a rectangle +
video tutorial

Hi, I’m Jess. My mom taught me to crochet when I was 8-years-old. Now on my site,
MakeAndDoCrew.com, I work along with my mom and sisters to share free patterns and
tutorials that make crochet modern, approachable and fun! I live in Colorado with my
three young kiddos who love to unravel yarn and my patient husband who doesn’t mind
living in an ever-growing yarn web.

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© Make & Do Crew