Shelby Instructions
Shelby Instructions
Shelby Instructions
FRONT BACK
DESCRIPTION :
The Shelby pattern is a princess-seamed dress
or romper with four views. Each has a
V-shaped neckline, front button opening, and
back waist tie. Views A and B are dresses with
a traditional short sleeve. View A is a mini
dress hitting mid-thigh, while View B is a
longer dress that ends around the ankle. Views
View A
C and D are rompers with a cap sleeve. The Length
romper gives the illusion of being a dress with
the coverage of a short or pant. View C is a mini
length romper hitting mid-thigh, while View D’s View B
hem ends just above the ankle. Length
MAIN FABRIC :
Lightweight woven fabrics with drape such as
rayon challis, crepe, silk, voile and linen.
NOTIONS :
Coordinating thread, 2 yds of lightweight
fusible interfacing, 7 - 3/8” buttons (Views A
& B), 5 - 3/8” buttons (Views C & D). View C
Length
DIFFICULTY : View D
Length
SIZE CHART (INCHES / CENTIMETERS)
SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
CHEST 32 / 82 33 / 84 34 / 86 35 / 89 36 / 92 37.5 / 95 39 / 99 40.5 / 103 42.5 / 108 44.5 / 113
WAIST 26 / 66 27 / 69 28 / 71 29 / 74 30 / 76 31.5 / 80 33 / 84 34.5 / 88 36.5 / 93 38.5 / 98
HIP 34 / 86 35 / 89 36 / 92 37 / 94 38 / 97 39.5 / 100 41 / 104 42.5 / 108 44.5 / 113 46.5 / 118
- The Shelby Dress and Romper is drafted for a model who is 5’5” tall. You can
lengthen or shorten your pattern on the specified markings if necessary.
- I always recommend sewing up a muslin before cutting into your fabric to ensure
an accurate fit.
- All seam allowances are included and are 1/2” unless otherwise stated in the
instructions.
- You will want to finish your seam allowances when guided to in the instructions to
prevent unraveling. You can do this in various ways, such as overlocking, zigzag
stitching, or using pinking shears.
- If you would like more details and visuals to help in the assembly of this garment,
I highly recommend checking out the sewalong on my blog.
DEFINITIONS:
Topstitching - A row of stitching visible on the right side of the garment.
Basting - A row of temporary stitching to hold pieces of fabric in place. You will
usually use the longest stitch length on your machine to make it easy to remove in
later steps.
Stitch in the Ditch - A row of stitching on top of a seamline through all layers of
fabric. Because the stitching is located in the “ditch” created between two or more
joining pieces of fabric, the stitching is less visible.
Grading Seams - Trimming your seam allowances to different levels to reduce bulk.
For instance, if your seam allowance is 1/2”, you might trim one raw edge to 3/8”
and the other to 1/4”.
Staystitching - A row of stitching along a bias or curved seam to prevent the fabric
of a garment from stretching during construction.
11
4
6
7
12
1
8
11
4
12
1
13
17
4
14
6
18
1
13
4
14
6
18
1
8
2
5
7
10
7
9
5
10
13
5
16
14
3
1
18
size
15
13
5
14
16
3
1
Please note: The following illustrations depict View Step 3 - With right sides touching, and matching
A (dress; mini-length). Unless noted, all instructions notches, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the
are applicable to all views. front and back neck facings. Finish the seam allow-
ances in your desired manner and press open or
towards the front.
ALL VIEWS
Step 1 - Before starting, make sure that you have
transferred all notches and symbols from your
pattern pieces to your fabric. Next, fuse your
interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck
facings and the back neck facing.
Tip: If you put a piece of paper under the tie while Step 9 - With right sides touching, pin the side back
on your sewing machine, it makes it easier to sew pieces to the center back, matching notches. Stitch.
that very small bit of fabric. Clip curved areas of seam allowance as needed.
Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired
ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY manner. Press seam allowances towards side back.
(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 8) Set aside assembled back for now. (You may want to
Step 7 - With right sides touching, pin the center secure your ties into a bow to keep them from
back pieces together along the center back. getting caught in future stitching.)
Stitch. Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and clip along
curve as needed. Finish seam allowances in
desired manner, and press open or towards one
side.
Step 10 - With right sides touching, pin the side ALL VIEWS
front to the center front, matching notches. Stitch. Step 12 - With right sides touching, pin the assem-
Clip curved areas of seam allowance as needed. bled front(s) to the assembled back at the shoul-
Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired ders. Stitch. Finish seam allowances in desired
manner. Press finished seam allowance towards manner. Press finished seam allowances open or
side front. towards the back.
ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY Step 16 - To help the neckline have a smooth finish
(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 21) once turned and pressed, grade the neck seam
Step 14 - With right sides touching, pin the front allowance, and notch along the curved portion of
and back inseams together, matching notches, raw the seam. Trim around the center front top curve.
edges, and seams. Stitch from one bottom edge to
the other. Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish
in desired manner. Press finished seam allowances
towards the back.
DRESS VIEWS A & B ONLY Step 23 - To help the facing stay tucked neatly to
(VIEWS C & D SKIP TO STEP 25) the inside of the dress, press the seam allowance
Step 21 - With right sides touching, pin the assem- towards the facing and understitch where possible.
bled neck facing to the neck edge of the dress, I start at the bottom edge of the front facing and
aligning inner and lower raw edges, and matching understitch to within 1” of the neckline curve. Start
shoulder seams and notches. Starting at the again as close as possible to the front edge of the
bottom of the dress on one side, stitch along the neckline, and stitch around the remainder of the
front opening edge, and around the entire neckline. neckline. Continue down the other side of the front
Finish stitching at the other bottom edge, back- facing in the same manner. (Understitching is
stitching at both ends to secure. shown in bold).
ALL VIEWS For the traditional short sleeve, fold the bottom raw
Step 25 - To help ease the sleeve cap into the edge of the sleeve up by ¼”, wrong sides touching,
armhole, baste the upper edge of the sleeve at ⅝” and press. Fold up by another ½”. Press, and then
seam allowance, and again at ⅜” seam allowance. unfold.
Start basting on one side of sleeve cap at the first
notch, and continue around cap, past the shoulder
notch, to the final notch on the other side of the
curve. Do not backstitch. Leave the long thread
tails to aid in easing.
Step 29 - With the sleeve turned right side out, and Step 30 - Remove basting stitches from sleeves.
the garment wrong side out, slip the sleeve into the Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired
garment and line up the armhole openings. manner. Press finished seam allowances towards the
sleeve.
Turn facing right side out, turning out corner into a ALL VIEWS
nice point. This will begin to fold the hem by an Step 33 - Using the buttonhole placement guide,
additional ⅜” at the edge of the facing. Continue to mark buttonholes on the right (when wearing) front.
fold up the entire hem by ⅜”. Pin and press. The Stitch buttonholes, and cut open. Mark button
folded lower edge of the dress should align with the placement through open buttonholes on left front.
seam at the lower edge of the facing. Stitch close to Sew buttons onto the left front. Note that Views A
fold to secure hem, starting and stopping at edge of and B use seven buttons / buttonholes, while Views
facing. Backstitch. C and D only use five.