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Shelby Instructions

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#9101

SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

FRONT BACK

DESCRIPTION :
The Shelby pattern is a princess-seamed dress
or romper with four views. Each has a
V-shaped neckline, front button opening, and
back waist tie. Views A and B are dresses with
a traditional short sleeve. View A is a mini
dress hitting mid-thigh, while View B is a
longer dress that ends around the ankle. Views
View A
C and D are rompers with a cap sleeve. The Length
romper gives the illusion of being a dress with
the coverage of a short or pant. View C is a mini
length romper hitting mid-thigh, while View D’s View B
hem ends just above the ankle. Length

MAIN FABRIC :
Lightweight woven fabrics with drape such as
rayon challis, crepe, silk, voile and linen.

NOTIONS :
Coordinating thread, 2 yds of lightweight
fusible interfacing, 7 - 3/8” buttons (Views A
& B), 5 - 3/8” buttons (Views C & D). View C
Length

DIFFICULTY : View D
Length
SIZE CHART (INCHES / CENTIMETERS)
SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
CHEST 32 / 82 33 / 84 34 / 86 35 / 89 36 / 92 37.5 / 95 39 / 99 40.5 / 103 42.5 / 108 44.5 / 113
WAIST 26 / 66 27 / 69 28 / 71 29 / 74 30 / 76 31.5 / 80 33 / 84 34.5 / 88 36.5 / 93 38.5 / 98
HIP 34 / 86 35 / 89 36 / 92 37 / 94 38 / 97 39.5 / 100 41 / 104 42.5 / 108 44.5 / 113 46.5 / 118

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (INCHES / CENTIMETERS)


SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
CHEST 37 / 94 38 / 97 39 / 99 40 / 102 41 / 104 42.5 / 108 44 / 112 45.5 / 116 47.5 / 121 49.5 / 126
WAIST 30 / 76 31 / 79 32 / 82 33 / 84 34 / 86 35.5 / 90 37 / 94 38.5 / 98 40.5 / 103 42.5 / 108
HIP 53 / 135 54 / 137 55 / 140 56 / 142 57 / 145 58.5 / 149 60 / 152 61.5 / 156 63.5 / 161 65.5 / 166
LENGTH A/C 33.5 / 85 34 / 86 34.5 / 88 35 / 89 35.5 / 90 36 / 91 36.5 / 93 37 / 94 37.5 / 95 38 / 96
LENGTH B/D 51 / 130 51.5 / 131 52 / 132 52.5 / 133 53 / 135 53.5 / 136 54 / 137 54.5 / 138 55 / 140 55.5 / 141

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS (YARDS / METERS)


SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
VIEWA / C 45” 3.2 / 3 3.2 / 3 3.5 / 3.2 3.5 / 3.2 3.5 / 3.2 3.5 / 3.2 3.7 / 3.4 3.7 / 3.4 3.7 / 3.4 3.7 / 3.4
VIEWA / C 54” 2.5 / 2.3 2.5 / 2.3 2.5 /2.3 2.7 / 2.5 2.7 / 2.5 2.7 / 2.5 3 / 2.7 3 / 2.7 3 / 2.7 3 / 2.7
VIEW B / D 45” 5 / 4.6 5 / 4.6 5 / 4.6 5 / 4.6 5 / 4.6 5.3 / 4.8 5.3 / 4.8 5.5 / 5 5.5 / 5 5.5 / 5
VIEW B /D 54” 4.3 / 4 4.3 / 4 4.3 / 4 4.3 / 4 4.5 / 4.1 4.5 / 4.1 4.5 / 4.1 4.7 / 4.3 4.7 / 4.3 4.7 / 4.3
-Extra fabric may be needed to match stripes / plaids or for directional prints.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

BEFORE YOU START:


- Be sure to wash and dry all fabric before cutting to avoid shrinking your final
garment.

- The Shelby Dress and Romper is drafted for a model who is 5’5” tall. You can
lengthen or shorten your pattern on the specified markings if necessary.

- I always recommend sewing up a muslin before cutting into your fabric to ensure
an accurate fit.

- All seam allowances are included and are 1/2” unless otherwise stated in the
instructions.

- You will want to finish your seam allowances when guided to in the instructions to
prevent unraveling. You can do this in various ways, such as overlocking, zigzag
stitching, or using pinking shears.

- If you would like more details and visuals to help in the assembly of this garment,
I highly recommend checking out the sewalong on my blog.

DEFINITIONS:
Topstitching - A row of stitching visible on the right side of the garment.

Edgestitching - A row of stitching very close to a seam, fold, or garment edge.

Basting - A row of temporary stitching to hold pieces of fabric in place. You will
usually use the longest stitch length on your machine to make it easy to remove in
later steps.

Stitch in the Ditch - A row of stitching on top of a seamline through all layers of
fabric. Because the stitching is located in the “ditch” created between two or more
joining pieces of fabric, the stitching is less visible.

Grading Seams - Trimming your seam allowances to different levels to reduce bulk.
For instance, if your seam allowance is 1/2”, you might trim one raw edge to 3/8”
and the other to 1/4”.

Staystitching - A row of stitching along a bias or curved seam to prevent the fabric
of a garment from stretching during construction.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

PRINTING WITH LAYERS:


This pattern allows you the option to print just the size or sizes you need through layers. To
use the layers function, open your pattern in Adobe Reader and click on the layers icon in the
far left corner . Next, simply click on and off the eyeball icon next to the sizes you do
or don’t want to print.
PRINTING YOUR PATTERN AT A COPYSHOP:
If you do not want to assemble your pattern, you may choose to have it printed for you at a
copyshop. Choose between the US copyshop files which will print at the standard 36” width
or the A0 copyshop, depending on your location. Make sure that they print it at 100% with no
scaling. There is a 2” x 2” square that you can measure to make sure that it was printed at the
correct size.
PRINTING/ ASSEMBLING YOUR PATTERN AT HOME:
To print at home, make sure that your printer scaling is turned off and is set up to print at
100%. Print page 1 of your pattern first and measure the 2”x 2” square to ensure accurate
printing. Cut off the borders as necessary and tape your pattern together, matching the light
gray circles and arranging in numerical order as shown below.
For View A, use the file labeled for Views A and C and only print pages 1 - 36.
For View B, use the file labeled for Views B and D and only print pages 1 - 54, and 63.
For View C, use the file labeled for Views A and C and only print pages 1 - 24 and 37 - 54.
For View D, use the file labeled for Views B and D and only print pages 1 - 36, and 45 - 71.

PRINTING LAYOUT VIEWS A & C PRINTING LAYOUT VIEWS B & D

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

FABRIC LAYOUTS VIEWS A & B :


RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC
PATTERN PIECES:
1. Back Neck Facing (All Views)
2. Front Neck Facing (Views A & C)
3. Front Neck Facing (Views B & D)
INTERFACING / VIEW A / ALL SIZES
4. Short Sleeve (Views A & B)
5. Cap Sleeve (Views C & D)
6. Waist Tie (All Views)
2

7. Side Front Mini (Views A & C)


8. Side Back Mini (Views A & C)
9. Front Center Mini Romper (View C)
1

10. Back Center Mini Romper (View C)


INTERFACING / VIEW B / ALL SIZES 11. Front Center Mini Dress (View A)
12. Back Center Mini Dress (View A)
13. Side Front Long (Views B & D)
14. Side Back Long (Views B & D)
3

15. Front Center Long Romper (View D)


16. Back Center Long Romper (View D)
1

17. Front Center Long Dress (View B)


18. Back Center Long Dress (View B)
VIEW A / 54” ALL SIZES Button / Buttonhole Guide
2
8

11

4
6

7
12
1

VIEW A / 45” ALL SIZES


6

8
11

4
12
1

VIEW B / 54” ALL SIZES


3

13
17

4
14
6
18
1

VIEW B / 45” ALL SIZES


17

13

4
14
6
18
1

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

FABRIC LAYOUTS VIEWS C & D :


RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC
PATTERN PIECES:
1. Back Neck Facing (All Views)
2. Front Neck Facing (Views A & C)
3. Front Neck Facing (Views B & D)
INTERFACING / VIEW C / ALL SIZES 4. Short Sleeve (Views A & B)
5. Cap Sleeve (Views C & D)
6. Waist Tie (All Views)
7.
2

Side Front Mini (Views A & C)


8. Side Back Mini (Views A & C)
9. Front Center Mini Romper (View C)
1

10. Back Center Mini Romper (View C)


INTERFACING / VIEW D / ALL SIZES 11. Front Center Mini Dress (View A)
12. Back Center Mini Dress (View A)
13. Side Front Long (Views B & D)
14. Side Back Long (Views B & D)
3

15. Front Center Long Romper (View D)


16. Back Center Long Romper (View D)
17. Front Center Long Dress (View B)
1

18. Back Center Long Dress (View B)


VIEW C / 54” ALL SIZES Button / Buttonhole Guide
6
9

8
2

5
7
10

VIEW C / 45” ALL SIZES


6

7
9

5
10

VIEW D / 54” ALL SIZES


6
15

13

5
16

14
3
1

18
size

VIEW D / 45” ALL SIZES


6

15

13
5

14
16

3
1

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

Please note: The following illustrations depict View Step 3 - With right sides touching, and matching
A (dress; mini-length). Unless noted, all instructions notches, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the
are applicable to all views. front and back neck facings. Finish the seam allow-
ances in your desired manner and press open or
towards the front.
ALL VIEWS
Step 1 - Before starting, make sure that you have
transferred all notches and symbols from your
pattern pieces to your fabric. Next, fuse your
interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck
facings and the back neck facing.

Step 4 - Finish the outer edge of your assembled


neck facing in your desired manner. You do not
need to finish the bottom or inside edges. Set the
assembled facing aside for now. (Note: seam
finishing will not be shown in future illustrations.)

Step 2 - Staystitch the neckline on the front center


and back center pieces at 3/8” seam allowance in
the directions shown below. Note that the back for
Views C and D is made from two pieces, not one as
shown below. (Staystitching won’t be shown in
future illustrations.)

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

Step 5 - With wrong sides touching, fold each ALL VIEWS


back tie piece in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch Step 8 - With right sides touching, pin one tie to
the long edge, using a 1/2” seam allowance. Trim each side of the center back piece, centering the
seam allowance to 1/4”. raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up.
Baste to secure.

Step 6 - Turn ties right side out using a loop turner


or a safety pin. Press flat. Fold one end under by ¼”
and then again by ⅜”. Stitch along folded edge to
secure end. Finish remaining tie in the same
manner.

Tip: If you put a piece of paper under the tie while Step 9 - With right sides touching, pin the side back
on your sewing machine, it makes it easier to sew pieces to the center back, matching notches. Stitch.
that very small bit of fabric. Clip curved areas of seam allowance as needed.
Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired
ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY manner. Press seam allowances towards side back.
(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 8) Set aside assembled back for now. (You may want to
Step 7 - With right sides touching, pin the center secure your ties into a bow to keep them from
back pieces together along the center back. getting caught in future stitching.)
Stitch. Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and clip along
curve as needed. Finish seam allowances in
desired manner, and press open or towards one
side.

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SHELBY
SHELBYDRESS
DRESS&
&ROMPER
ROMPER || #9101
#9101

Step 10 - With right sides touching, pin the side ALL VIEWS
front to the center front, matching notches. Stitch. Step 12 - With right sides touching, pin the assem-
Clip curved areas of seam allowance as needed. bled front(s) to the assembled back at the shoul-
Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired ders. Stitch. Finish seam allowances in desired
manner. Press finished seam allowance towards manner. Press finished seam allowances open or
side front. towards the back.

Step 13 - With right sides touching, pin the assem-


bled front(s) to the assembled back at sides. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired
manner. Press finished seam allowances towards
the back.

ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY


(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 12)
Step 11 - With right sides touching, pin the two
assembled front pieces together along the center
front crotch. Stitch from the lower edge up to the
circle, and backstitch to secure. Clip diagonally,
close to, but not through the circle marking. Clip
along curved areas of seam allowance as needed,
trim seam allowances to ⅜”, and finish in desired
manner. Press finished seam allowance open or
towards one side.

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SHELBY
SHELBYDRESS
DRESS&
&ROMPER
ROMPER || #9101
#9101

ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY Step 16 - To help the neckline have a smooth finish
(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 21) once turned and pressed, grade the neck seam
Step 14 - With right sides touching, pin the front allowance, and notch along the curved portion of
and back inseams together, matching notches, raw the seam. Trim around the center front top curve.
edges, and seams. Stitch from one bottom edge to
the other. Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish
in desired manner. Press finished seam allowances
towards the back.

Step 15 - With right sides touching, pin the assem-


bled neck facing to the neck edge of the romper,
aligning inner raw edges, and matching shoulder
seams, notches, and circles. Starting at one circle, Trim the angle at each lower corner to reduce bulk
stitch around the entire neckline at a 1/2” seam once turned.
allowance, pivoting at lower corners, and finishing
at the circle on the opposite side. Backstitch at
both ends to secure.

Press the unfinished seam allowance (below the


dot) up as illustrated.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

Step 17 - To help the facing stay tucked neatly to


the inside of the romper, press the seam allowance Step 19 - Lap right (when wearing) front over left
towards the facing and understitch where possi- front, matching up the centers, and pin. Stitch
ble. I start about 1” above the lower edge of the through all layers ⅛” from edge to secure.
front facing, and understitch to within 1” of the
neckline curve. Start again as close as possible to
the front edge of the neckline, and stitch around
the remainder of the neckline. Continue down the
other side of the front facing in the same manner.
(Understitching is shown in bold).

Step 20 - Stitch in the ditch through all layers for a


Step 18 - Turn the neck facing to the inside of the few stitches at shoulder and center back seams to
romper, rolling the facing slightly to the inside. Take secure the facing.
extra care in turning out the lower corner to get it
sharp. Make sure that the bottom edge of the facing
is still turned up and tucked away nicely so no raw
edges are showing. Press.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

DRESS VIEWS A & B ONLY Step 23 - To help the facing stay tucked neatly to
(VIEWS C & D SKIP TO STEP 25) the inside of the dress, press the seam allowance
Step 21 - With right sides touching, pin the assem- towards the facing and understitch where possible.
bled neck facing to the neck edge of the dress, I start at the bottom edge of the front facing and
aligning inner and lower raw edges, and matching understitch to within 1” of the neckline curve. Start
shoulder seams and notches. Starting at the again as close as possible to the front edge of the
bottom of the dress on one side, stitch along the neckline, and stitch around the remainder of the
front opening edge, and around the entire neckline. neckline. Continue down the other side of the front
Finish stitching at the other bottom edge, back- facing in the same manner. (Understitching is
stitching at both ends to secure. shown in bold).

Step 22 - To help the neckline have a smooth finish


once turned and pressed, grade the neck seam
allowance and notch along the curved portion of the
seam. Trim around the center front top curve.
Step 24 - Turn the neck facing to the inside of the
dress, rolling the facing slightly to the inside and
press. Stitch in the ditch through all layers for a few
stitches at shoulder seams to secure the facing.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

ALL VIEWS For the traditional short sleeve, fold the bottom raw
Step 25 - To help ease the sleeve cap into the edge of the sleeve up by ¼”, wrong sides touching,
armhole, baste the upper edge of the sleeve at ⅝” and press. Fold up by another ½”. Press, and then
seam allowance, and again at ⅜” seam allowance. unfold.
Start basting on one side of sleeve cap at the first
notch, and continue around cap, past the shoulder
notch, to the final notch on the other side of the
curve. Do not backstitch. Leave the long thread
tails to aid in easing.

Step 27 - With right sides touching, pin and stitch


the inner arm seam. Trim seam allowance to ⅜” and
finish in your desired manner. Press the seam
allowances open or towards the sleeve back.

Step 26 - For the cap sleeve, fold the bottom raw


edge of the sleeve up by ¼”, wrong sides touching,
and press. Fold up by another ⅜”. Press, and then
unfold.

Step 28 - Re-fold the sleeve hem along the previ-


ously pressed lines and pin. Stitch close to the fold
to secure.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

Step 29 - With the sleeve turned right side out, and Step 30 - Remove basting stitches from sleeves.
the garment wrong side out, slip the sleeve into the Trim seam allowances to ⅜” and finish in desired
garment and line up the armhole openings. manner. Press finished seam allowances towards the
sleeve.

DRESS VIEWS A & B ONLY


Match up the underarm seam with the side seam, and
(VIEWS C & D SKIP TO STEP 32)
place the shoulder (middle) notch at the shoulder
seam. Align the outer notches, and gently pull on the Step 31 - With right sides touching, turn the bottom
basting thread tails to ease the fullness of the sleeve edge of the facing to the outside along the seam
cap into the armhole of the garment. Use your finger- where the facing and dress meet, with lower raw
tips to evenly spread the small gathers, trying to edges even. Pin. Stitch along bottom edge at a ⅝”
make them as even as possible. Generously pin the seam allowance for the length of the facing. Back-
sleeve into place. stitch at both ends. Clip corner as illustrated.

Slowly stitch the armhole seam, feeding the fabric


under the presser foot evenly, so there are no obvi-
ous gathers in the finished sleeve cap.
On the inside of the dress, fold the bottom raw edge
up by ¼”, wrong sides touching, all the way around,
including the area attached to the facing. Press.

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SHELBY DRESS & ROMPER | #9101

Turn facing right side out, turning out corner into a ALL VIEWS
nice point. This will begin to fold the hem by an Step 33 - Using the buttonhole placement guide,
additional ⅜” at the edge of the facing. Continue to mark buttonholes on the right (when wearing) front.
fold up the entire hem by ⅜”. Pin and press. The Stitch buttonholes, and cut open. Mark button
folded lower edge of the dress should align with the placement through open buttonholes on left front.
seam at the lower edge of the facing. Stitch close to Sew buttons onto the left front. Note that Views A
fold to secure hem, starting and stopping at edge of and B use seven buttons / buttonholes, while Views
facing. Backstitch. C and D only use five.

ROMPER VIEWS C & D ONLY


(VIEWS A & B SKIP TO STEP 33)
Step 32 - Fold the bottom raw edge of each romper
leg up by ¼”, wrong sides touching. Press. Fold
again by ⅜”. Press and pin. Stitch close to the fold
to secure.

CONGRATS! YOU ARE FINISHED.

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