Everyday People 餐馆

20240229 Everyday People 餐馆
It started when I found myself staring at a tabletop in a restaurant in Nottingham.I’d recently read
Filterworld by Kyle Chayka, which, among many other brilliant things, analyses how independent
hospitality businesses are, for the first time in history, intimately connected by social media.
事情是这样的那天我发现我独⾃坐在诺丁汉的⼀家餐馆⾥盯着桌⾯发呆我最近读了 Kyle

Chayka 写的被算法过滤的世界⼀书书中有很多精彩的内容其中之⼀就是分析了那些独⽴餐饮
⾏业是如何有史以来第⼀次通过社交⽹络媒体紧密地联系在⼀起的
Design trend no longer spread organically, but spring up apparently spontaneously, the sole
vector of connection being a proprietor cool enough to follow the right social media accounts.
餐饮店内的室内设计⻛格趋势不再是⼀传⼗⼗传百那样有机逐步地传播开⽽是就这么突然地⾃个

⼉蹦出来要说这背后存在什么因果关系的话那就是有⼀个头脑⾜够在这个信息爆炸时代还能保持
冷静的独⽴经营者和他所关注的⼀些信息精准的相关社交媒体账户
This explains why all the furniture and fittings in Everyday People, a “ramen and small plates”
restaurant in a Victorian industrial building, are made of plywood with exposed edges.
这也就解释了为什么明明这座建筑是维多利亚⼯业⻛⽽我正处于的这家名为 Everyday People 的拉

⾯和⼩菜餐厅⾥的所有的装潢都是由略显廉价边缘裸露的胶合板制成的
A designer would call that “honouring the truth of the materials”, but in a restaurant context it’s
a badge of belonging. I think of it as Hackney Millefeuille.
设计师会称这种为 “尊重材料的本真” 什么的啦但在这餐厅⾥倒也蛮象征⼀种⽇常归属感的我甚

⾄觉得它像极了伦敦哈尼克区的法式千层酥
But then I thought (I should never review alone, I think too much), it’s not just the furniture, is it?
The “great wave” of ramen is, I think, the first international food trend that’s happened via this
mechanism.
但我转念⼀想我真不应该在⼀⼈⽤餐时各种反思因为我总是想很多这不仅仅是家具装潢的问

题不是吗我认为拉⾯⼤浪潮可能是第⼀波通过这⼀款新型传播机制出现的国际饮⻝潮流
French cuisine originally achieved global dominance via peripatetic French chefs or visitors to
France. Italian food spread with immigration. Our tradition of “Indian” here, and of “Chinese”
worldwide, were spread by diasporas.
最初的时候法国菜是通过巡游世界的法国厨师或到法国旅游的游客传播开来⽽获得全球主导性的

地位的意⼤利菜则是伴随着移⺠⽽传播我们这⾥的 “印度菜 ” 传统以及世界各地的 “中国菜 ” 传
统则都是通过侨⺠传播开来的
But these are very analogue modes of transmission. People passing cooking hand-to-hand in an
unbroken, evolving line.
但这些都是⾮常雷同的传播模式⼈们⼿把⼿地传授烹饪技艺⼀脉相承不断发展
Ramen, a postwar Japanese fast-food trend, has managed a phenomenal global spread, in
almost perfect lockstep with the internet, without physical contact and with many non-Japanese
chefs involved. The first internet-mediated global cuisine? Quite possibly.
⽽拉⾯作为战后⽇本的⼀种快餐⻛潮它⼏乎与互联⽹步伐⾼度⼀致地在全球范围内现象级地传播

开⽆需真⼈实际接触也有许多⾮⽇本厨师参与其中这会不会是第⼀个以互联⽹为媒介⻛靡全球
的美⻝我觉得很有可能
The chef here is Peter Hewitt, a finalist in MasterChef 2015 who’s gone on, via a popular food
truck, to open a permanent “ramen and small plates spot”. It’s a very good thing he has.
这家店的主厨是 Peter Hewitt 他曾⼊围厨艺⼤师 2015 总决赛接着经营了⼀辆⼴受欢迎的流动

餐⻋现在则开设了这家固定地点的拉⾯和⼩菜餐厅这家店他的珍宝
We are by now so used to the idea of a small plate of house pickles and ferments that it might
pass without comment, a mechanical preliminary like the bread roll on a side plate, prawn
crackers or a stack of poppadoms, but these were little jewels of wonder, alerting you to Hewitt’s
attention to detail.
现在的我们对⼀⼩盘⾃制的家庭腌菜和发酵⼩吃已经习以为常以⾄于在⽤餐时对它们从不多看⼀

眼就像⻄餐中边盘上的⾯包卷虾饼或⼀叠印度薄饼⼀样只是作为⼀种预设好⼀定要出现的东⻄
⽽机械性地摆在那⾥但这家店⾥的⼩菜可都是奇珍异宝它们提醒着你 Hewitt’s 对细节是多么地关
注
Sharply vinegared shredded daikon, subtly and simply lacto-fermented carrot chunks, cubes of
turnip with a strong shisō scent and slices of mushroom part-braised in soy. A genuine palate-
fluffer.
⽩萝⼘丝特别酸爽胡萝⼘块⽤了精巧⼜简单的乳酸发酵法制成芜菁块散发着浓郁紫苏⾹味蘑菇

⽚采⽤酱油半烧制天真是令⼈味觉颤抖
I have always worried that I’d never be a truly great writer unless I could find my higher purpose,
some grand idea to which I could dedicate the rest of my life. I think I may have come across it in
an alleyway in Nottingham.
我⼀直担⼼我永远不会成为⼀名真正伟⼤的作家除⾮我能找到更⾼的追求⼀些可以让我为之奉献

余⽣的绝妙想法我想我现在可能在诺丁汉的这个⼩巷⼦⾥遇到了它
There is a thing with pork belly, particularly when braised, where you can get neurotically
focused on the transitions between the layers, the precise points where meat becomes fat, or fat
becomes skin.
当制作红烧⾁时会出现⼀个种现象你会像个神经病⼀样眼睛直勾勾地盯着各层之间的过渡专注于

⾁溶成脂肪或脂肪变成焦⽪的精确时刻
With infernal skill, Hewitt has rendered the entire piece, all strata, to a single sublime texture,
before slapping it in a pillow of bao bun and sprinkling it with peanut powder.
Hewitt ⽤⾮⼈类般⾼超的技艺将整块五花⾁的所有层次都炼制成⼀种极赞的质感然后将其塞⼊⽇

式刈包的囊中再撒上花⽣粉
The fried radish cake, I confidently predict, is going to become one of the great delivery vectors
of our age. It’s made of grated daikon, fettled into the size and shape of a small bar of chocolate,
and deep fried. Think of it as a hash brown without the US cultural imperialism.
我⾃信地预⾔⽇式油炸萝⼘糕将成为我们这个时代最重要的饮⻝⽂化传递载体之⼀它的原材料是

磨碎的⽩萝⼘末将其整形成⼀⼩块巧克⼒状的⽅块然后油炸可以把它想象成没有美国帝国主义
⽂化⾊彩的⼟⾖饼
It tastes of very little but is texturally charming and operates structurally like a pallet on a forklift,
spreading the payload of pickled shiitake, powdered kimchi, a raw egg yolk and an ample duvet
of parmesan, making it easier to post securely into the mouth. I was alone, I was delighted, and
so felt free to make little choo choo train noises as it approached my lips. It’s rich stuff, but
emotionally involving.
它的味道很清淡但⼝感迷⼈它在结构上起到像物流叉⻋前那种托盘⼀样的作⽤将⼀堆腌⾹菇

泡菜粉⽣蛋⻩和⼤量帕尔⻢⼲酪碎铺展在上⾯轻松⼜稳当地放⼊⼝中我⼀个⼈吃得津津有味
当它靠近我的嘴唇时我感到⾮常⾃在以⾄于发出⽕⻋般啾啾的欢快声这道菜材料丰富⼜饱含
感情
There are five offerings on the main ramen menu. One veggie, one vegan, a lamb-based tan tan,
a chicken and duck shoyu and a princely garlic-lashed tonkotsu. I, conforming to your
presuppositions, selected the last on the principle that, if pork is good, then pork collar and pork
belly in a pork broth would automatically be wonderful. A bit like a magazine partwork which,
“over 25 issues, will enable you to build this spectacular whole pig you can display to impress
your family and friends”.
菜单上的主打产品拉⾯部分⼀共有五种选择蛋奶素⻝拉⾯纯素拉⾯⽺⾁担担⾯鸡鸭⾁酱油拉

⾯最后是豪华蒜⾹豚⻣拉⾯我按照你现在的期待选择了最后⼀种因为如果原材料中的猪⾁质
量很好的话那么豚⻣⾼汤⾥的猪颈⾁和猪肚就⾃然也会⾮常美味这种体验有点像出⼀本杂志的特
辑通过品尝 25 期 “分散的主题” 你可以在脑海中拼出这头闪闪发光的猪⼉的全貌甚⾄可以跟家⼈
和朋友们描述
The broth was well judged. Cut back with chicken stock to avoid excessive richness but,
crucially, only just succeeding. The thin noodles had a positive pop to them, and slicks of burnt
garlic oil were sufficient to threaten local seabird populations. The onsen egg was so
preternaturally fudgy it was difficult to eat with a combination of chopsticks and a joyful grin. (In
passing, can we declare a moratorium on the synecdochical use of the word “bowl” in menus.
Good ramen is not “a great bowl”, any more than blanquette de veau is “a terrific plate”.)
⾼汤做的恰到好处为了避免汤汁过于浓郁⽽减少了鸡汤的⽤量但关键是刚刚好卡到临界点细

细的⾯条在滚烫的⾼汤中咕嘟浮在汤⾯上的焦⾹蒜油⾜以威胁到当地的海⻦数量温泉蛋的绵软程
度超乎寻常⼏乎⽆法⼀边咧开嘴笑⼀边⽤筷⼦夹着吃 (顺便提⼀句我们能否主张⼀下暂停在菜单
中使⽤ “碗” 这个词指代拉⾯好的拉⾯不仅仅是 “很棒的碗” 就像⽩酱炖⼩⽜⾁也不只是 “很棒的盘
⼦”
The service was relaxed, attentive and knowledgeable, so I asked my waiter if the restaurant was
named after Sly and the Family Stone’s joyous 1968 anthem of world peace and equality. He
looked confused and patiently explained that, no, it was about, “Y’know, you know, people.
Everyday people.” I looked around the room filled with a heartening mishmash of mums with
pushchairs, couples on dates, Japanese students and a bloke with a plug earring, beard and
tattoos thinking far too hard about noodle consistency, and I suddenly thought, y’know what?
餐厅的服务轻松周到还附有解说于是我问服务员餐厅是不是以 Sly and the Family Stone 乐队

在 1968 年那⾸欢快的呼吁世界和平与平等的颂歌命名的他⼀脸疑惑耐⼼地解释说不是关于
“⼈” 的 “你知道的⼈每天⻅得到的普通⼈ ” 我环顾四周这是⼀个让⼈感到热热闹闹的⼤杂
烩有推着婴⼉⻋的妈妈正在约会的情侣⽇本学⽣还有⼀个戴着⽿塞留着胡⼦身上有纹身
的家伙他正在认真思考⾯条的含⽔量和筋度
If the internet is capable of distributing noodle-based love democratically, to all the people of the
world, well surely that can only be a wonderful, liberating thing. Everybody was having a grand
time and that’s exactly what Sly and family were on about.
我突然想到⼀件事如果互联⽹能够以⺠主的⽅式向全世界⼈⺠传播以拉⾯为载体的爱那么这肯定
是⼀件美妙⽽⼜⾃由解放的事情每个⼈都开⼼⽽享受这正是 Sly and family 的⽬的所在
So there I sat, like a contemporary Dr Johnson, wondering not that there was a ramen restaurant
in Nottingham, but the mechanism by which it got there and, thank goodness, how very, very well
Hewitt and his crew are doing it.
因此我坐这那⾥就像当代的约翰逊博⼠⼀样不是思考 “诺丁汉有家拉⾯馆” 这样⼀个事实⽽是

寻求这家拉⾯馆出现的机制⽽谢天谢地 Hewitt 和他的团队给我了⾮常棒的答案

Everyday People 餐馆

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20240229 Everyday People 餐馆

事情是这样的 那天 我发现我独⾃坐在诺丁汉的⼀家餐馆⾥ 盯着桌⾯发呆 我最近读了 Kyle

餐饮店内的室内设计⻛格趋势不再是⼀传⼗ ⼗传百那样有机逐步地传播开 ⽽是就这么突然地⾃个

这也就解释了为什么明明这座建筑是维多利亚⼯业⻛ ⽽我正处于的这家名为 Everyday People 的拉

设计师会称这种为 “尊重材料的本真” 什么的啦 但在这餐厅⾥ 倒也蛮象征⼀种⽇常归属感的 我甚

但我转念⼀想 我真不应该在⼀⼈⽤餐时各种反思 因为我总是想很多 这不仅仅是家具装潢的问

最初的时候 法国菜是通过巡游世界的法国厨师或到法国旅游的游客传播开来 ⽽获得全球主导性的

但这些都是⾮常雷同的传播模式 ⼈们⼿把⼿地传授烹饪技艺 ⼀脉相承不断发展

⽽拉⾯ 作为战后⽇本的⼀种快餐⻛潮 它⼏乎与互联⽹步伐⾼度⼀致地在全球范围内现象级地传播

这家店的主厨是 Peter Hewitt 他曾⼊围 厨艺⼤师 2015 总决赛 接着经营了⼀辆⼴受欢迎的流动

现在的我们 对⼀⼩盘⾃制的家庭腌菜和发酵⼩吃已经习以为常 以⾄于在⽤餐时对它们从不多看⼀

⽩萝⼘丝特别酸爽 胡萝⼘块⽤了精巧⼜简单的乳酸发酵法制成 芜菁块散发着浓郁紫苏⾹味 蘑菇

我⼀直担⼼我永远不会成为⼀名真正伟⼤的作家 除⾮我能找到更⾼的追求 ⼀些可以让我为之奉献

当制作红烧⾁时会出现⼀个种现象 你会像个神经病⼀样眼睛直勾勾地盯着各层之间的过渡 专注于

Hewitt ⽤⾮⼈类般⾼超的技艺 将整块五花⾁的所有层次都炼制成⼀种极赞的质感 然后将其塞⼊⽇

我⾃信地预⾔ ⽇式油炸萝⼘糕将成为我们这个时代最重要的饮⻝⽂化传递载体之⼀ 它的原材料是

它的味道很清淡 但⼝感迷⼈ 它在结构上起到像物流叉⻋前那种托盘⼀样的作⽤ 将⼀堆腌⾹菇

菜单上的主打产品拉⾯部分⼀共有五种选择 蛋奶素⻝拉⾯ 纯素拉⾯ ⽺⾁担担⾯ 鸡鸭⾁酱油拉

⾼汤做的恰到好处 为了避免汤汁过于浓郁⽽减少了鸡汤的⽤量 但关键是 刚刚好卡到临界点 细

餐厅的服务轻松 周到 还附有解说 于是我问服务员 餐厅是不是以 Sly and the Family Stone 乐队

因此 我坐这那⾥ 就像当代的约翰逊博⼠⼀样 不是思考 “诺丁汉有家拉⾯馆” 这样⼀个事实 ⽽是

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事情是这样的那天我发现我独⾃坐在诺丁汉的⼀家餐馆⾥盯着桌⾯发呆我最近读了 Kyle

餐饮店内的室内设计⻛格趋势不再是⼀传⼗⼗传百那样有机逐步地传播开⽽是就这么突然地⾃个

这也就解释了为什么明明这座建筑是维多利亚⼯业⻛⽽我正处于的这家名为 Everyday People 的拉

设计师会称这种为 “尊重材料的本真” 什么的啦但在这餐厅⾥倒也蛮象征⼀种⽇常归属感的我甚

但我转念⼀想我真不应该在⼀⼈⽤餐时各种反思因为我总是想很多这不仅仅是家具装潢的问

最初的时候法国菜是通过巡游世界的法国厨师或到法国旅游的游客传播开来⽽获得全球主导性的

但这些都是⾮常雷同的传播模式⼈们⼿把⼿地传授烹饪技艺⼀脉相承不断发展

⽽拉⾯作为战后⽇本的⼀种快餐⻛潮它⼏乎与互联⽹步伐⾼度⼀致地在全球范围内现象级地传播

这家店的主厨是 Peter Hewitt 他曾⼊围厨艺⼤师 2015 总决赛接着经营了⼀辆⼴受欢迎的流动

现在的我们对⼀⼩盘⾃制的家庭腌菜和发酵⼩吃已经习以为常以⾄于在⽤餐时对它们从不多看⼀

⽩萝⼘丝特别酸爽胡萝⼘块⽤了精巧⼜简单的乳酸发酵法制成芜菁块散发着浓郁紫苏⾹味蘑菇

我⼀直担⼼我永远不会成为⼀名真正伟⼤的作家除⾮我能找到更⾼的追求⼀些可以让我为之奉献

当制作红烧⾁时会出现⼀个种现象你会像个神经病⼀样眼睛直勾勾地盯着各层之间的过渡专注于

Hewitt ⽤⾮⼈类般⾼超的技艺将整块五花⾁的所有层次都炼制成⼀种极赞的质感然后将其塞⼊⽇

我⾃信地预⾔⽇式油炸萝⼘糕将成为我们这个时代最重要的饮⻝⽂化传递载体之⼀它的原材料是

它的味道很清淡但⼝感迷⼈它在结构上起到像物流叉⻋前那种托盘⼀样的作⽤将⼀堆腌⾹菇

菜单上的主打产品拉⾯部分⼀共有五种选择蛋奶素⻝拉⾯纯素拉⾯⽺⾁担担⾯鸡鸭⾁酱油拉

⾼汤做的恰到好处为了避免汤汁过于浓郁⽽减少了鸡汤的⽤量但关键是刚刚好卡到临界点细

餐厅的服务轻松周到还附有解说于是我问服务员餐厅是不是以 Sly and the Family Stone 乐队

因此我坐这那⾥就像当代的约翰逊博⼠⼀样不是思考 “诺丁汉有家拉⾯馆” 这样⼀个事实⽽是