Behind the Scenes

Senior Editor Matthew Fairman enjoys a bowl

of gumbo at the Mosquito Supper Club in New
Orleans (left). The outside of Li’l Dizzy’s, an
iconic New Orleans eatery and home to some
of the city’s finest gumbo (right).

Editor in Chief Toni Tipton-Martin Creative Director John Torres Chief Executive Officer Dan Suratt
Editorial Director Bryan Roof Photography Director Julie Cote Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop
Executive Editor Scott Kathan Art Director Maggie Edgar Chief Operating Officer Evan Silverman
Executive Editor, Creative Content Morgan Bolling Art Director, ATK Reviews Marissa Angelone Chief Marketing and Data Officer Lee Boykoff
Deputy Food Editor Nicole Konstantinakos Associate Art Director Rose Flynn Chief Digital Officer Fran Middleton
Deputy Editor Megan Ginsberg Graphic Designers Liz Higgins, Zoë Meadow Chief People Officer Colleen Zelina
Senior Editors Matthew Fairman, Jessica Rudolph Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise, Daniel J. van Ackere
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Photography: Pableaux Johnson

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 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

I F I W E R E going to make a declaration Today a soup of black-eyed peas, rice,

about gumbo, the way that the cooks do in and blue crab is on the tasting menu at
Matthew Fairman’s story about the silky Serigne Mbaye’s Dakar NOLA in New
stew on page 14, I would say that gumbo Orleans. The menu helps connect Senega-
is a delicious mystery waiting to be solved lese food and New Orleans cuisine, and
and every cook is a detective. Here are the soup, which is served as a first course,
some of the variations, ideas, and fun facts “recalls the city’s famous gumbos,” Brett
to consider. Anderson observed in The New York Times.
An article entitled “A Short History I have not yet visited Dakar NOLA, but
of Gumbo,” published by the Southern I intend to. Until then, I will continue to
Foodways Alliance, states that gumbo enjoy gumbo the way I have for years—at
is considered a “melting pot” dish that home following a recipe I adapted to my
crosses class and regional barriers. The own pantry and tastes. My husband loves
first documented references to gumbo in the dish and likes to join in making it. An
the United States appeared around the engineer, he is the designated roux stirrer.
turn of the 19th century. In 1803, gumbo He patiently tends to the flour-and-fat
was served at a reception in New Orleans, mixture as it transforms from gloppy and
and in 1804 gumbo was enjoyed at a Cajun white to smooth and caramel-colored. It
gathering on the Acadian coast. takes him more than 20 minutes over low
“The name derives from a West African heat, but eventually he achieves the
word for okra, suggesting that gumbo was brick-red roux his heart desires. Nirvana.
originally made with okra,” the article contin- African American cookbooks and were flavored With Matthew’s recipe, you can bring the
ues. “The use of filé (dried and ground sassafras by ham and a rich broth made from simmering luxurious taste of Louisiana to your home too.
leaves) was a contribution of the Choctaws and, beef or poultry bones. Abby Fisher, a former Some advice: Take your time and enjoy the
possibly, other local tribes. Roux has its origin bondswoman who lived in Northern California process. And after you’ve made it once, impro-
in French cuisine, although the roux used in and won awards for her pickles and preserves, vise with bits of diced ham or crabmeat until
gumbos is much darker than its Gallic cousins.” included a recipe for ochra gumbo in her book, the dish is your own. Serve it with cooked
Okra is a finger-shaped vegetable that can be What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern rice, or add to the mystique and spoon it
green or red and has a mucilaginous interior. Cooking (1881). Her version’s savory and allur- over homemade potato salad the way some
Devotees love that slime; it thickens gumbo and ing flavor derives from a broth made by boiling locals do. Call it gumbo ya-ya—Cajun for
gives the stew body. To make Ghanaian and a beef shank. “everybody talking all at once.”
Bahamian okra soup, a cook might stir tomatoes, Creole chef, cooking teacher, and restaura-
other vegetables, and seafood into the pot. teur Lena Richard included a recipe for okra TONI TIPTON-MARTIN
Another adaptation, okra stew, is made with gumbo thickened with a roux and filé in her
greens and okra (but no tomatoes) and is likely 1939 cookbook, though most cooks do not
Editor in Chief
descended from African beef soup, as I wrote approve of working all three thickeners into a
in my cookbook Jubilee (2019). single pot. Years later, Leah Chase, the “queen
Okra soup and okra (or ochra) gumbo of Creole cuisine,” added ham and veal and
appeared to be interchangeable terms in early sometimes sausage to hers.

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 31

12 32

10
FEATURES

6 A FAT TUESDAY CELEBRATION 25 ON THE ROAD: FRIED CHEESE CURDS

Open up your home and celebrate Mardi Gras Milwaukee’s Dairyland brings fine-dining precision
like a local. to burger-joint food.

7 KING CAKE 28 STRIP STEAKS WITH COWBOY BUTTER

Make this traditional New Orleans Mardi Gras Perfect steaks with a punchy, buttery sauce.
treat in your own kitchen, no matter where No horse or saddle required.
you live.
29 MUSTARD-ROASTED POTATOES
10 BOUDIN BALLS Golden roasted potatoes cooked with and coated in
How do you make this iconic Cajun sausage a brassy combination of mustards.
party-ready? Fry it.
30 QUINOA SALAD(S) FOR THE WIN
12 RILLONS (AKA PORK CANDY) There’s a lot to love about this flavorful, easy-to-cook
For your next gathering, think beyond the ingredient.
cocktail meatball.
31 SHAVED BRUSSELS SPROUT SALAD
14 ON THE GUMBO TRAIL Quick-cooking and easy to dress up, these sprouts
This landmark dish is much more than you belong on your weeknight table.
think, and it’s infinitely more delicious.
32 CRÈME BRÛLÉE
18 GETTING TO KNOW SHRIMP For an easier version of this restaurant staple, we
Learn how to shop for and prep these small eliminated the tricky water bath.
crustaceans.
34 CHOCOLATE-RASPBERRY PIE
20 BIG-BATCH SAZERACS A glorious-yet-simple treat for anyone you’re sweet on.
Because sometimes you need a round of
cocktails at the ready.
 America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home
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21

34 FAREWELL TO THE
ROOSTER!
As Cook’s Country continues to grow and

DEPARTMENTS
evolve, we are moving on from using the rooster
icon. Accordingly, the “Find the Rooster” contest
has ended—there is no rooster hidden in this

4 QUICK BITES 36 COOKING CLASS

issue. The October/November 2023 drawing
winner, Kelly Phong of Oneida, Washington,
Beer-Brined Roast Chicken found the rooster on page 40 of that issue.
5 ATK REVIEWS
Nonalcoholic Beer 38 COOKING FOR TWO
Scallops with Orzo Risotto

21 DINNER TONIGHT 39 HOW TO MAKE 20

Creamy Shrimp and Crispy Fried Chickpeas
Andouille Penne
40 ONE PAN
Honey-Roasted Chicken Chorizo with Sweet
Drumsticks with Carrots Potatoes and Black Beans

Pesto Potato Frittata with

41 INSTANT POT
Peas and Goat Cheese
Barbecue Pulled Chicken
Sandwiches
Pork Chops with Spicy
Tomato-Braised Escarole
42 ATK REVIEWS DOWNLOAD OUR APP
Pork Tacos with Rolling Pins The America’s Test Kitchen app delivers the
best-tasting recipes, how-to-cook videos,
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43 ATK REVIEWS and more! Download America’s Test Kitchen
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Quick Beef Stew with Honey
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Mushrooms and Dijon
44 BONUS RECIPE
Tuna, Fennel, and Warm Marinated Olives
Radish Salad Toasts
45 PORTRAIT
White Bean and Sun-Dried Wally Wroblewski
Tomato Burgers

41

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 QUICK BITES:
T E ST K I TC H E N T I P S, R EC S , A N D OT H E R T I D B I TS TO C H E W O N
by Matthew Fairman

ALL ABOUT HAM HOCKS R ÉMO U L A D E RÉM OU L ADE

Ham hocks are an excellent and collagen, which adds a luscious, A typical Louisiana-style Makes 11⁄2 cups
affordable way to boost flavor and silky body to their cooking liquid rémoulade is a tangy, creamy, Total Time: 5 minutes
add body to myriad dishes, includ- and imparts a deeply meaty flavor. mayonnaise-based sauce often We like to make this rémou-
ing our Smoky Chicken, Sausage, They’re often salt cured and containing some or all of the fol- lade with Crystal Hot Sauce;
and Shrimp Gumbo (page 17). smoked, but they can be found lowing: chopped celery, scallions, you can substitute other
In that recipe, we use them to fresh too. Smoked hocks impart parsley, pickles, and capers, as Louisiana-style hot sauces, but
build a flavorful stock. They store more flavor than fresh—adding a well as horseradish, ketchup, start with less and add to taste.
exceptionally well, salty, smoky richness similar to mustard, and a bit of cayenne or
particularly in the bacon—so we typically default to hot sauce. We prefer a simplified 11⁄3 cups mayonnaise
freezer; they’re those. Because they’re composed version—one that requires no 3 tablespoons prepared
cheaper than primarily of bone, skin, and con- chopping—to use as a dipping horseradish
bacon (at less than nective tissue, ham hocks require sauce for our Boudin Balls 2 tablespoons Worcestershire
$3.00 a pound); and long cooking to release flavor (page 11). The cool, bright heat of sauce
they have even more and to tenderize. This makes the horseradish, Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons Crystal Hot Sauce
to offer. them especially suited for slowly and hot sauce contrast and bal- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
A ham hock is a roughly fist-size braising along with beans, hearty ance the richness of the sausage, ½ teaspoon pepper
hunk of pork containing the joint greens, or other tough cuts of and the smooth sauce lightly
that connects the upper leg to the meat. Once the hocks are tender, coats the crispy spheres without Whisk all ingredients together
hoof. It has a great deal of skin the skin and fat can be easily competing with the texture and in bowl. (Rémoulade can be
and bone, with a small amount of removed so that the meat can be complexity of the boudin. refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
meat. Ham hocks also have loads picked off the bones and added
of connective tissue that’s rich in back to the dish.

Ham hocks
are part of the
hog’s lower leg
above the hoof.

WHAT TO DO WITH USE in a roux when making a bécha-

RENDERED PORK FAT mel or gumbo; to fry eggs and home
Making our recipe for Cajun Rillons fries; when searing steaks or chops;
(page 13) produces about a cup of or as a portion of fat when making
slightly salty, supersavory rendered mayonnaise, baking biscuits or dough
pork fat. Don’t toss it; it’s liquid for savory tarts or pies, or making
gold. That fat can be strained and french fries.
reused multiple times; it keeps well
when refrigerated or frozen; and it RUB on
has innumerable uses, making it meats
a delicious secret weapon to have before
on hand in the kitchen. Strain the roasting.
melted pork fat through a fine-mesh
strainer lined with cheesecloth to TOSS with vegetables such as pota-
remove all solids, and store the fat toes, brussels sprouts, cauliflower,
in an airtight container for months carrots, or cabbage before roasting.
in the refrigerator or even longer in
the freezer. Here are just some of B L END into mashed potatoes or
the ways you can put this flavorful into root vegetable purees.
cooking medium to use.

4 CO OK’S COU NT RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 QUICK BITES

HOW TO MAKE ATK REVIEWS

COLORED SUGARS
Colored sugars are great for
decorating cakes, cookies, THE BEST
cupcakes, and more. We call
for purple, green, and gold NONALCOHOLIC BEER
colored sanding sugars to by Valerie Sizhe Li
decorate our King Cake
(page 9). If you can’t find
them, it’s easy to make your NONALCOHOLIC BEER ONCE had a bad rap, TOP FIVE STYLES OF NONALCOHOLIC BEER
own colored sugar by mixing but it is staging an exciting metamorphosis. Sales in 1. LAGER: The most popular category, this
food coloring into sugar. If the United States totalled $670 million in 2021, and easy-drinking beer is crisp, light, and refreshing, but
you use coarse sugar, you’ll they have continued to skyrocket. Though still just a our tasters found nonalcoholic lager a mixed bag.
get large crystals more akin fraction of the beer market, nonalcoholic beer sales Many tasters were impressed that Heineken 0.0
to sanding sugar, but granu- account for 85 percent of the alcohol-alternative sec- tasted nearly identical to its alcoholic counterpart.
lated sugar also works with tor, according to NIQ, a consumer-data provider.
this technique. This rising demand has been attributed to two fac- 2. ALE: Ale is a category that encompasses several
tors: the “sober curious” movement that motivated styles. Its fermentation method is different from
people to cut down on alcohol intake and technological lager. We tasted blonde, amber, sour, and pale ales.
advances that made nonalcoholic beer taste like the The Athletic Brewing Co. Upside Dawn Golden
real deal. So how did nonalcoholic beer go from tasting Non-Alcoholic Brew had “slight sweetness” at the
skunky and metallic to being full-bodied and nuanced? start and a “lemon zest finish.” Two other standouts
The tradition of making nonalcoholic beer in the were the “full-bodied” and “fruity” Omission Bal-
U.S. goes back to when Congress passed the Volstead anced Brewing Good to Go Golden Non-Alcoholic
Act in 1920; this act banned the sale of alcoholic Brew and the “hop-forward” Big Drop Brewing Pine
beverages with greater than 0.5 percent alcohol by Trail Pale Non-Alcoholic Malt Beverage.
volume (ABV). Pabst and Anheuser-Busch pivoted
to making low-alcohol beers, reducing their alcohol 3. WHEAT: Wheat beer is technically an ale as its
levels to less than 0.5 percent ABV. Called “near beer,” appearance is cloudy, but its popularity earned it a
most were riffs on mass-market lager, notes Joshua separate category. Although wheat beers are hard to
Bernstein, author of The Complete Beer Course replicate in nonalcoholic form, our tasters enjoyed
(2013). “The lack of options beyond lager contributed “bright, citrusy” Mikkeller Drink’In the Sun Non
to the delayed takeoff of nonalcoholic beer,” he added. Alcoholic Wheat Ale.
Fast forward to the 2010s, when the demands for
1. Spread 1⁄2 cup sugar onto nonalcoholic beer began to rise. The craft-beer move- 4. INDIA PALE ALE (IPA): IPA tends to have
plate and add 1⁄16 teaspoon gel ment in the early 2000s also helped turbocharge the strong hoppy flavors with notes of pine. We liked
food coloring or 5 drops liquid nonalcoholic beer surge, leading breweries to diversify earthy West Coast–style IPA and fruitier New England
food coloring. the styles of very low-alcohol and completely nonal- IPA. The Untitled Art West Coast Nonalcoholic IPA
coholic beer to mirror current trends in the craft-beer was impressively “fizzy” and “bright” with “a fair bit
industry. You can now find nonalcoholic versions of of hoppiness.” For East Coast style, Samuel Adams
popular styles, from hoppy and fruity IPAs Non-Alcoholic Just the Haze had “fruity hop[s]” and
and chocolaty stouts to crisp Italian won high praise.
pilsners and funky sour ales. We
tasted 23 types in a range of 5. STOUT: Full-bodied and rich, stout typically fea-
styles and a found a favorite tures notes of coffee and caramel. Our tasters were
(or two) in each category. impressed with the Guinness Zero Non-Alcoholic
Draught. Flavorwise, it hits all the “coffee,” “licorice,”
“rye,” and “bread” notes of its alcoholic counterpart.

5
2 4
1 3

2. With your gloved hands, rub

food coloring into sugar until
evenly combined. Let sugar dry
completely before using, about
1 hour.
The complete results chart is available at AmericasTestKitchen.com/mar24.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 5

A FAT
TUE DAY
S
Open up your home and
While the rest of the
celebrate Mardi Gras like country is emerging
a local. by Matthew Fairman from the holiday season
and hunkering down for
winter, New Orleans
W H E N I M O V E D to New Orleans locals are ramping up
a few years ago, I had a lot to learn for Mardi Gras, which
about Mardi Gras (literally translated, is much more than a
“Fat Tuesday”). I primarily pictured one-day celebration;
the most salacious bits I had seen on it’s an entire season.
TV from afar. You know the scene January 6, the 12th night of Christ- last Tuesday before Lent, we’ll don our
that’s so often associated with Carnival: mas in the Catholic calendar, marks costumes, lay out feasts, and either hit
beads and delirious college students. the official beginning of Carnival the neighborhood streets ourselves to
Although tourists can certainly find season—also known by many locals become part of the parade or open up
those on Bourbon Street during the as “king cake season”—when we our houses to fortify and resuscitate the
Carnival season, the truth is, they can are finally allowed to eat king cake passing revelers.
find them there any night of the week, and when the first of the dozens of So wherever you are this Fat
the whole year round. upcoming parades hits the streets. Tuesday, there’s no better way to
On the other hand, the truly Christmas decorations aren’t taken celebrate than to do as we do and
unique, essential delights of Mardi down; they’re simply transformed take it literally, preparing a decadent
Gras are to be found celebrating and into Mardi Gras decorations. spread of Louisiana specialties. These
feasting with family and friends in the From that date until Fat Tuesday, are the recipes for an unforgettable
Crescent City’s other neighborhoods. locals are frantically constructing Mardi Gras: a homemade King
Sure, there are parades with lots of costumes. One of my wife’s students Cake (page 9) filled with a gooey
people throwing beads and myriad says that after New Year’s her family’s cinnamon-sugar swirl; the heaviest
other collectible objects, but the dinner table becomes “the glitter of hors d’oeuvres in crispy Boudin
targets for those are less likely to be factory.” Then comes the menu plan- Balls (page 11) and luscious Rillons
a drunken tourist than an overjoyed ning, attending parades and king cake (page 13); celebratory Big-Batch
4-year-old hoisted up on her parent’s parties, and generally anticipating the Sazeracs (page 20); and the pièce de
shoulders. Families will have camped indulgent farewell to the flesh—the résistance—a supremely comforting
out and picnicked all day long to get literal English translation of the Latin pot of Smoky Chicken, Sausage,
the best spot on the parade route. “carnival.” Because Mardi Gras season and Shrimp Gumbo (page 17). So
For me, this image truly is traditionally tied to the Catholic drench yourself in purple, green, and
encapsulates Mardi Gras: elaborately calendar, the Wednesday following gold glitter; invite your friends and
costumed families dancing joyously Mardi Gras marks the beginning of family over to feast; and forget the
down neighborhood streets on their Lent, a season of penance and absti- doldrums of midwinter. Today, we let
way to congregate in friends’ homes nence that precedes Easter. But on that the good times roll.
to refuel on spreads of Popeyes fried

CELEBRATION
chicken, a signature
family gumbo, mini
Photo: Pableaux Johnson

muffulettas, fried
seafood po’ boys,
king cake, and more.

6 COO K’S COU NTRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 KING
CAKE
Make this traditional New
Orleans Mardi Gras treat
in your own kitchen, no
matter where you live.
by Bronwen Wyatt

NEW ORLEANS IS a city of

people with passionate opinions,
especially concerning food. The
easiest way to start an argument
among New Orleanians is to
pronounce as fact your opinion on,
say, the best way to boil crawfish
or how dark to take your roux for a
certain dish—you’ll barely need to
pause before your sparring partner
interjects to inform you that you
are wrong and how the way their
grandma prepared it is actually cor-
rect. King cake, the reigning dessert
of Mardi Gras, is no exception.
This celebratory circle of dough has
achieved near mythic status in Loui-
siana, and where to get the best one
is the subject of intense debate. I’m
here to pronounce my own strong
opinion—the very best king cake is
the one you make yourself.
Many folks will tell you the best
king cake was from McKenzie’s, a
local bakery chain that, in the New
Orleans’ colloquialism, “ain’t dere
no more.” Though now shuttered,
the bakery also famously origi-
nated the tradition of including a
baby figurine, meant to represent
the infant Jesus, in the king cake.
These babies were once made of
porcelain and are now typically
plastic, though other charms are
deployed as well—in the past, folks
might use an almond or a dried
bean. The guest who receives the
baby is responsible for bringing the
king cake to the next gathering. In
your average Louisiana workplace,
this means you’ll likely have the
chance to enjoy king cake every
single workday through the Mardi
Gras season.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • COO K’S COU NT RY 7

 When I first started making modern tweaks to make it easier Next, place the braided ring of to remind your guests to expect
king cakes several years ago, to make and enjoy. dough in a round cake pan to rise it—especially so that they can
I approached the process with a Begin with a simplified enriched and bake. King cakes are often plan to bring the king cake to the
bit of a critical eye—I’m not a bread dough (enriched simply baked free-form on a sheet tray next party.
New Orleans native, and I felt means the addition of sugar or rather than baked in a pan. I prefer
like a lot of the cakes I tried were fat—here, melted butter). Chill the latter—having the support of Bronwen Wyatt is a pastry chef
a bit, well, lackluster. In its the dough, divide it in two, and the sides of a round cake pan allows with nearly two decades of experi-
simplest form, king cake is a soft fill each half with a lush cinnamon you to use a more tender dough ence in restaurants across America,
bread filled with a ribbon of spread before braiding the two and still get a great rise and shape including in New Orleans; Baltimore;
cinnamon sugar and topped with pieces together—working with without the filling leaking out and San Francisco; and Portland, Maine.
a sweet glaze and brightly colored cold dough makes this assembly a scorching the bottom. Last, use In 2020, Wyatt established Bayou
sanding sugar representing the breeze. The filling includes gin- sour cream in the glaze to cut the Saint Cake, a boutique cake studio
colors of Mardi Gras. I wanted gersnap crumbs, which help lock sweetness and add a bit of tang. specializing in imaginative layer
my own king cake to feature an the buttery spiced filling into place These breaks from king-cake cakes featuring intensely seasonal
elegant ring of dough and have a so that each slice features a distinct convention might stir up a debate Southern produce. Wyatt lives in a
strong pop of cinnamon flavor swirl. This is a great opportunity here in New Orleans, but I think century-old shotgun house in New
with a more moderate overall to use the very best cinnamon you you’ll find the end result well Orleans with her wife, where her
sweetness. The version published have; an excellent, fresh cinnamon worth it. If you include a charm hobbies include gardening, painting,
here is traditional with a few will really shine in this recipe. with your king cake, don’t forget and writing.

HOW TO FORM KiNG CAKE

1. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and 2 . Lightly flour dough portions and roll each into 3. Using offset spatula, spread half of filling over
divide into 2 equal portions. 12 by 4-inch rectangle with long edge parallel to 1 dough rectangle, leaving ¾-inch border at long
counter edge. edge of dough opposite counter edge.

4 . Beginning with long edge nearest you, roll 5. Place dough logs next to each other, perpen- 6. Carefully transfer shaped dough to prepared
dough away from you into even log, pushing in dicular to counter edge. Cross left log tightly over pan, forming ring in pan, and pinch both ends
ends to create even thickness. Pinch seam to right log. Continue twisting, 3 times total, to wrap together to seal.
seal and roll log seam side down. Repeat with dough logs around each other.
second dough rectangle and remaining filling.

8 COO K’S COUN T RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 KI NG CA KE portions. Roll each portion into
A SWEET, Serves 8 Total Time: 2½ hours, plus 3 hours 50 minutes 12 by 4-inch rectangle with long
HiSTORiC REiGN to 4 hours 20 minutes chilling, rising, and cooling edge parallel to counter edge.
A round baked good contain- We prefer to refrigerate the dough overnight, which gives it a fuller 5. Using offset spatula, spread half
ing a symbolic trinket, eaten flavor and makes it easier to handle. You’ll need about 10 gingersnap of filling over 1 dough rectangle,
in celebration of the holiday of cookies to yield ½ cup of crumbs. To make the crumbs, pulse the cookies leaving ¾-inch border at long
Epiphany, is found across the in a food processor or place them in a zipper-lock bag and crush them edge of dough opposite counter
Catholic diaspora in different with a rolling pin until finely ground. You can substitute graham cracker edge. Beginning with long edge
forms. Epiphany marks the crumbs or Biscoff cookie crumbs for the gingersnap crumbs if you’d like. nearest you, roll dough away from
three kings' visit to baby Jesus, This recipe was developed using a light-colored cake pan; if your pan is you into even log, pushing in ends
and it’s generally agreed that dark, begin checking for doneness at about 35 minutes (before tenting to create even thickness. Pinch
New Orleans inherited the king it with foil). If you don’t have colored sanding sugar, you can make your seam to seal and roll log seam side
cake from France and Spain. own colored sugar (page 5). Be sure to advise your guests if you choose down. Repeat with second dough
In francophone cultures, you to hide the (inedible) king cake baby under your cake. rectangle and remaining filling.
might enjoy a galette des rois, a 6. Place dough logs next to each
very French confection of puff CA K E in bowl of stand mixer. Whisk other, perpendicular to counter
pastry and almond frangipane, 2½ cups (12½ ounces) all-purpose ⅓ cup water, 2 eggs, milk, melted edge. Cross left log tightly over
while in Spain the rosca de flour butter, and vanilla together in right log. Continue twisting,
reyes consists of a round of bri- ¼ cup (1¾ ounces) granulated liquid measuring cup. Make well in 3 times total, to wrap dough
oche topped with dried fruit. In sugar flour mixture and add water mix- logs around each other. Care-
New Orleans, this has morphed 2¼ teaspoons instant yeast ture to well. Fit mixer with paddle fully transfer shaped dough to
into the circle of sweet bread, ¾ teaspoon table salt attachment and mix on low speed prepared pan, forming ring in
often flavored with cinnamon 1⁄3 cup plus 1 tablespoon water, until ingredients are just combined, pan, and pinch both ends together
and topped with sugar colored divided about 30 seconds. Increase speed to to seal. Cover pan loosely with
purple, green, and gold. Tradi- 3 large eggs, divided medium-high and mix until dough plastic wrap and let rise at room
tion dictates that the colors 3 tablespoons whole milk forms stretchy, web-like strands temperature until doubled in size,
represent justice, faith, and 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, on sides of bowl, about 5 minutes, 1 to 1½ hours.
power (though that may be melted scraping down sides of bowl half- 7. Adjust oven rack to middle posi-
another New Orleans legend in 2 teaspoons vanilla extract way through mixing (dough will be tion and heat oven to 350 degrees.
its own right). Vegetable oil spray soft and sticky). Transfer dough to Whisk remaining 1 egg and
In Louisiana, king cake is Purple, green, and yellow lightly greased large bowl and coat remaining 1 tablespoon water
eaten between January 6, the colored sanding sugars dough lightly with oil spray. Cover together in small bowl. Brush
feast of Epiphany, and Mardi 1 king cake baby, dried bean, with plastic wrap and refriger- dough evenly with egg wash.
Gras. In recent years, local bak- or almond (optional) ate for at least 2 hours or up to Bake until cake is glossy and deep
ers have competed to develop 24 hours. golden brown, about 35 minutes.
increasingly innovative king F ILL ING 2. FOR T HE FILL IN G: Using Tent cake with aluminum foil and
cake flavors, and you’ll find 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, clean stand mixer bowl and continue to bake until center of
them now filled with anything softened paddle attachment, beat all ingre- cake registers 200 to 210 degrees,
from pecan praline to choco- ½ cup (2 ounces) gingersnap dients on medium speed until 15 to 20 minutes longer.
late to strawberry. There are crumbs well combined, about 1 minute. 8. Transfer cake to wire rack set
even savory versions such as ½ cup (3½ ounces) granulated (Filling can be refrigerated for up in rimmed baking sheet and let
those filled with boudin. sugar to 48 hours; let filling sit at room rest until cool enough to handle,
¼ cup packed (1¾ ounces) temperature until softened, at about 20 minutes. Run paring
brown sugar least 15 minutes, before spread- knife around edges of pan. Care-
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ing onto dough in step 5.) fully remove cake from pan and
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3. FOR TH E G LAZ E: Whisk all transfer to rack, rounded side up,
1⁄8 teaspoon table salt ingredients in bowl until smooth. discarding parchment. Pour glaze
Refrigerate until ready to use. evenly over cake and let sit until
G LA ZE (Glaze can be refrigerated for up glaze stops running but is still wet,
3 cups (12 ounces) confectioners’ to 48 hours.) about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with
sugar 4. Grease 9-inch round cake colored sugars, alternating colors
½ cup sour cream pan, line with parchment paper, in pinwheel pattern around cake.
Illustration: Rose Flynn

1 teaspoon vanilla extract and grease parchment. Working Let cake cool until just warm,
Pinch table salt quickly, transfer dough to lightly about 30 minutes.
floured counter and divide into 9. Transfer cake to serving platter.
1 . F OR TH E CAK E: Whisk 2 equal portions (about 12 ounces Hide king cake baby underneath
flour, sugar, yeast, and salt together each). Lightly flour dough cake, if using. Serve.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COUN T RY 9

BOUDIN BALLS
T O S AY T H AT Cajun boudin is and create the holy trinity, the
a pork sausage doesn’t do it jus- vegetable mixture that became
tice—this mix of spiced pork, rice, the foundation of much of Loui-
and liver is a totem of Cajun cui- siana cuisine. Like any people
sine and helps tell the story of one living off the land, the Cajuns
of the richest culinary traditions used every part of the animals
in America. Boudin is fully cooked they butchered; hence, chicken
before it gets stuffed into the cas- or pork livers came to be a staple
ings, and the preferred method of in the sausage. Today boudin is
consumption is to bite off the top sold in all manner of markets,
of the casing and squeeze the soft, grocery stores, and gas stations
heavily seasoned mixture directly throughout Louisiana.
into your mouth. And if company There is nothing subtle about
is coming, you can spread it on the best boudin, so I knew my
crackers or ball it up, roll it in version had to be assertively
breading, and fry it into delectable seasoned. Simmering chunks of
morsels known as boudin balls. heavily marbled pork shoulder in
The history of boudin is just as water with the trinity, salt, garlic,
rich as its flavor. Boudin’s roots can smoked paprika, white and black
be traced back to the Acadians (or pepper, and cayenne created a
“Cadiens”), a deep base of flavor
group of French in the meat and
expatriates who How do you make liquid. Using some
came to Nova
Scotia, which this iconic Cajun of that flavorful
liquid—now pork
was known as sausage party- stock—to cook the
Acadia at the rice infused the
time, in 1604. ready? Fry it. grains with flavor.
Eventually by Laila Ibrahim The preferred
expelled to dif- ratio of pork to
ferent parts of rice and liver is
America in 1755, many ended up hotly debated in Louisiana; my
scattered throughout Louisiana, tasters (including a few former
where they identified themselves as Louisiana residents) and I settled
Cajuns and made use of the land’s on 2 pounds of pork, 1⅓ cups of
bounty by hunting and fishing— raw long-grain white rice, and
and cooking. As with architecture 12 ounces of chicken livers for a
and music, they adapted their sausage that was bold but balanced.
cuisine to fit their new surround- Additional flavor comes from more
ings. (It should be noted that the flavorful pork-cooking liquid (plus
word “Cajun” is not strictly used to whatever fat was skimmed from it)
identify just one region or group of and plenty of sliced scallions.
people in Louisiana.) You can stuff this filling into
Among the foods they brought casings, poach it, and even smoke
was boudin blanc, a white sausage it if you like—there are many
made from pork (or veal or ways to enjoy boudin. But with
chicken), bread, cream, mirepoix Mardi Gras on the mind, I wanted
(onions, celery, and carrots), and party-friendly boudin balls. To
spices. Because rice was abun- make them, you simply chill the
dant in Louisiana, over time it filling, portion it into spheres, and
replaced the bread as the starchy then bread and fry them. This
filler. Similarly, the wide avail- crowd-pleasing version is an abso-
ability of green bell peppers led lute treat, especially when served
Cajun cooks to lose the carrots with rémoulade for dipping.

10 CO O K’S COU NT RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 BOUDIN BALLS 7. Line second rimmed baking sheet
Makes 30 balls Total Time: 4¾ hours, plus 4½ hours cooling and chilling with triple layer of paper towels.
Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Do not trim Add oil to clean Dutch oven until it
the pork butt; the rendered fat is used in the recipe. Use a Dutch oven that measures about 1½ inches deep and
holds 6 quarts or more. We developed this recipe using Diamond Crystal heat over medium-high heat to 350
kosher salt; if using Morton kosher salt, decrease the amount to 2½ table- degrees. Using spider skimmer or
spoons. If using table salt, decrease the amount of salt to 1¾ teaspoons. slotted spoon, gently lower 10 balls
Serve with Rémoulade (page 4). into oil and cook until golden
brown, about 6 minutes, rotat-
2 pounds boneless pork butt 4. Bring 2 cups reserved cook- ing balls halfway through frying.
roast, cut into 2-inch pieces ing liquid and rice to boil in large Adjust heat as needed to maintain
4 cups water, plus extra as saucepan over medium-high heat. oil temperature between 325 and
needed Reduce heat to low; cover; and 350 degrees. Transfer balls to paper
1 onion, chopped coarse simmer until rice is tender and towel–lined sheet. Return oil to
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, liquid has been absorbed, about 350 degrees and repeat with remain-
seeded, and chopped coarse 20 minutes. Off heat, let rice sit, ing balls in 2 more batches. Serve.
1 celery rib, chopped coarse covered, for 10 minutes.
3½ tablespoons kosher salt 5. Working in 3 batches, pulse TO MAKE AHEAD
6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled cooled pork mixture in food proces- After step 6, all or some of balls can
1 tablespoon smoked paprika sor until coarsely ground, about be refrigerated for up to 24 hours
1 tablespoon white pepper 6 pulses; transfer to large bowl. or frozen on sheet until solid and
2 teaspoons pepper Fold in scallions, remaining 1 cup then transferred to zipper-lock
1½ teaspoons cayenne pepper reserved cooking liquid, cooked bags and stored in freezer for up to
12 ounces chicken livers, patted rice, and reserved 3 tablespoons fat 1 month; thaw frozen balls over-
dry and trimmed until thoroughly combined. Cover night in refrigerator before frying.
11⁄3 cups long-grain white rice, rinsed and refrigerate boudin filling until
9 scallions, sliced thin (1¼ cups) completely chilled, at least 4 hours
1 cup all-purpose flour or up to 2 days. CASED AND SMOKED BOUDiN
4 large eggs 6. Place flour in shallow dish.
2½ cups panko bread crumbs Beat eggs in second shallow dish.
2 quarts peanut or vegetable oil for Spread panko in third shallow
frying dish. Line rimmed baking sheet
with parchment paper. Measure
1 . Combine pork, water, onion, bell ¼-cup portions of boudin mixture
pepper, celery, salt, garlic, paprika, and, using your lightly moistened
white pepper, pepper, and cayenne hands, roll into balls. Transfer
in large Dutch oven. Bring to boil boudin balls to prepared sheet (you
over medium-high heat. Reduce should have about 30 balls). Work-
heat to low; cover; and simmer until ing with 1 ball at a time, dredge
pork is tender, about 2 hours. Stir in in flour; dip in eggs; and coat with Visit AmericasTestKitchen.com/
chicken livers and cook until cooked panko, pressing gently to adhere. mar24 to learn how to case and
through, about 10 minutes. Return balls to prepared sheet. smoke boudin sausages.
2 . Using slotted spoon or spi-
der skimmer, transfer pork and
vegetables to rimmed baking sheet. CALViN TRiLLiN ON BOUDiN
Strain pork cooking liquid through The scribe Calvin Trillin is a champion of many foodstuffs, but he may be
fine-mesh strainer set over large most passionate about boudin. Here’s an excerpt on the topic from his book
bowl and transfer any remaining Feeding a Yen (2003).
solids to sheet with pork. Spread “When people in Breaux Bridge or Opelousas or Jeanerette talk about
pork mixture into even layer and let boudin (pronounced ‘boo-DAN’), they mean a soft mixture of rice and pork
cool completely, about 30 minutes. and liver and seasoning that is squeezed hot into the mouth from a sausage
3. Let cooking liquid settle for casing, usually in the parking lot of a grocery store and preferably while
5 minutes. Using wide, shal- leaning against a pickup. (Boudin means ‘blood sausage’ to the French, most
low spoon, skim off and reserve of whom would probably line up for immigration visas if they ever tasted the
3 tablespoons fat from surface; Cajun version.) I figure that about eighty percent of the boudin purchased
discard remaining fat. Measure out in Louisiana is consumed before the purchaser has left the parking lot, and
and reserve 3 cups cooking liquid; most the rest is polished off in the car. In other words, Cajun boudin not only
discard excess liquid. (Add extra doesn’t get outside the state, it usually doesn’t even get home.”
water as needed to yield 3 cups.)

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • COOK’S COUN TRY 11

 RILLONS
(AKA PORK CANDY)
For your next gathering,
think beyond the
cocktail meatball.
by Matthew Fairman

I S A A C T O U P S O F Toups’
Meatery in New Orleans says he
found this unique version of ril-
lons—bite-size bits of pork belly
braised in a red-wine caramel—in
an old Cajun cookbook (rillons
are a cousin of rillettes—meat
cooked and preserved in its own
fat). He calls them pork candy or
“alcoholic pork belly caramel.”
I call them the ultimate party
snack, decadent and irresistible.
This recipe is inspired by the ril-
lons I had for “dessert” at the end
of an unforgettable meal at the
Meatery and by the recipe Toups
published in his book Chasing
the Gator: Isaac Toups and the New
Cajun Cooking (2018).
Relying on the test kitchen’s
care for engineering the most fail-
proof recipes for the home cook,
I’ve adapted his recipe based on
techniques I learned from making
the more classic French-style
rillons. They’re a centuries-old
delicacy in the Touraine province
in France’s Loire valley, a region
famous for its way with potted
meats. Salting the chunks of pork
belly a day ahead not only helps
keep the pork juicy through the
long braise it needs to become
tender but also seasons the meat
throughout, balancing the sweet-
ness of the red-wine caramel that

12 CO OK’S COU NTRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

glazes each little morsel. Browning red-wine caramel, don’t throw it
the chunks of rich pork belly until out; you haven’t lived until you’ve
their fat is rendered allows you to tried it warm, drizzled over a
pour off some of the excess fat so brownie sundae.
that it doesn’t pool in the finished
dish. The fat that remains on the RIL LO NS
rillons becomes impeccably unctu- Serves 6 to 8
ous, tender, and silky and is a big Total Time: 2½ hours,
part of the dish’s appeal. So take plus 12 hours salting
Toups’s advice and look for pork Medium-bodied red wines, such
belly with lots of good fat. Finally, as Côtes du Rhône or Pinot Noir,
cooking the red-wine caramel are best for this recipe.
until it reaches 225 degrees
ensures a sauce with the perfect 33⁄4 pounds skinless pork belly
glossy, glaze-like texture and 51⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt
guarantees consistent results 11⁄2 teaspoons pepper
every time. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Next time you’re asked to bring 3 cups red wine
food to a party or are planning a 11⁄2 cups packed light
spread for your own, make these. brown sugar
Trust me, they are a next-level 9 sprigs fresh thyme
replacement for the cocktail
meatball and are bound to kick off 1 . Slice pork belly into and simmer until pork is tender, until sauce is thick and syr-
a lively conversation. And please, 1½-inch-thick strips, then cut 1½ to 2 hours, stirring once half- upy and registers 225 degrees,
if you have leftover pork-infused strips crosswise into 1½-inch-thick way through cooking. 10 to 15 minutes. Off heat,
pieces. Transfer pork to large 4. Using slotted spoon, trans- return pork to sauce and stir to
bowl, sprinkle with salt and pep- fer pork to large plate; discard coat. Let cool for 10 minutes,
GETTiNG THE CARAMEL RiGHT per, and toss until evenly coated. thyme sprigs. Cook wine mixture then stir again to coat with
Cover and refrigerate for at least over high heat, stirring often, sauce. Serve.
12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Pat pork dry with paper towels.
Heat oil in large Dutch oven CUTTiNG RiLLONS
over medium-high heat until
just smoking. Add half of pork
and cook, turning occasionally,
until fat is rendered and pork is
well browned on all sides, 12 to
15 minutes. Using slotted spoon,
transfer pork to large plate.
Repeat with remaining pork.
Pour off fat from pot and reserve
for another use.
3. Add wine and sugar to
now-empty pot and stir until sug-
ar is dissolved, about 30 seconds.
Add thyme sprigs and pork and
Cook caramel until it is thick and bring to simmer over medium-high 1. Slice pork belly into 11⁄2-inch 2. Cut strips crosswise into
syrupy and registers 225 degrees. heat. Cover; reduce heat to low; strips. 11⁄2-inch-thick pieces.

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • COOK’S COUN TRY 13

 ON THE
GUMBO TRAIL
This landmark dish is much more than you
think, and it’s infinitely more delicious.
by Matthew Fairman

I N LO U I S I A N A , E V E RYO N E
has a gumbo story. I’ve gathered
a few favorite declarations about
gumbo in my quest to write my
own: “Gumbo is a food group”
(Pableaux Johnson). “Gumbo
is like a religion” (Melissa M.
Martin). “Gumbo is a celebra-
tion” (Wayne Baquet, Sr.). These
proclamations hint at an elusive-
ness that is essential to gumbo,
one that I have found to be, at
turns, bewildering and tantalizing.
How could a humble pot of food
hold something so sublime that
it converts all Louisianians—no Pableaux Johnson
matter how wildly different their
environments and backgrounds— response was almost philosophi-
into gumbo evangelists, zealots cal. “My gumbo is less a recipe
even? Maybe taking a look at than a process. Almost like a cycle.
three specific gumbo stories can It takes place during a season.”
give us a clue. Pressed for specifics, he produced
this gem: “I buy a [ton] of turkeys
GIFTS FROM GUMBO CLAUS and smoke them over the course
Pableaux Johnson is also known of a very long time and then turn
as Gumbo Claus because of his them into gumbo over the course
decade-long practice of handing of a very long time.” In this way,
out quarts of his turkey-bone he explains, it’s a variation on a
gumbo around the holidays. I’ve typical post-Thanksgiving gumbo
come to depend on him as my using the leftover turkey and
gumbo mentor. carcass. So it’s a turkey and sausage
When I asked him how he gumbo. But that doesn’t do it
makes his gumbo, Johnson’s first justice. He calls it a “stock-first,

14 CO OK’S COU NT RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 roux-last gumbo.” He smokes
turkeys, picks the meat, and makes
a rich stock with the bones. The
roux doesn’t get added until after
the stock has cooked down with the
other ingredients. He includes the
trinity of onion, bell pepper, and
celery, but Johnson is keen to point
out that the onion gets treated dif-
ferently. With supreme patience he
“cooks down 30 pounds of onions
until they resemble something
like hashish,” that is, until they’ve
been transformed into an intensely
dark, concentrated higher form
of themselves. Melissa M. Martin Wayne Baquet, Sr.
Another key is the sausages he
uses: andouille (a very coarsely author of the hauntingly beautiful emblematic of the heart of Cajun
cut sausage seasoned heavily with Mosquito Supper Club: Cajun Recipes cooking, a home-cooked cuisine
garlic, black pepper, and smoke) and from a Disappearing Bayou (2020), stamped with the terroir of rural
smoked sausage (a finer, emulsified which is filled with recipes from Louisiana—whether bayous or
sausage with a completely different her acclaimed Mosquito Supper prairies—and one that defies popu-
finished texture)—both from Jacob’s Club restaurant. For Martin, whose lar impressions of Cajun food left
in LaPlace. According to Johnson, family includes shrimpers and by Paul Prudhomme and Emeril
these are “the pinnacle of their form oyster fishermen whose lifestyles Lagasse at the height of their fame
made at a very specific place by always meant cooking according in the 1980s and ’90s.
very specific people.” These are the to the seasons, Cajun food is about
kinds of pork products so crucial the excellence of local seafood and GUMBO IS PERSONAL
to a specific gumbo’s essential produce. It’s also predominantly The final gumbo story in our
character and deliciousness that you the purview of women cooking trilogy is different too. It’s that of
don’t mind driving west out of New at home. In the tradition of her Wayne Baquet, Sr., founder of Li’l
Orleans for 30 miles to get them. mother and grandmother, Martin’s Dizzy’s Cafe, a New Orleans Cre-
Asked if there’s anything else he Cajun gumbos take a purist’s pride ole restaurant in the historic Tremé
needs to tell me about his gumbo, in simplicity. neighborhood. If Martin’s Cajun
Johnson gets adamant again, With a fisherman’s reverence gumbos prize simplicity, Creole
expressing the deeply personal, for the pristine seafood that is her gumbos in the style of the Baquet
ultimately subjective nature of all peoples’ birthright, Martin recalls family seem to showcase and
gumbos: “Everybody has a differ- how her mother’s “subtle, modest, celebrate abundance. Baquet dis-
ent way that they do it. My gumbo timeless” shrimp okra gumbo— cussed his Creole gumbo in an oral
is like my thumbprint. No one will which she calls the ultimate history interview for the Southern
say, ‘I have the best thumbprint.’ gumbo—required only “the perfect Foodways Alliance. He learned
You don’t. It’s just you.” I like shrimp, a few vegetables, a couple the restaurant business from his
Johnson’s gumbo. A lot. of seasonings, and her Magnalite father Edward Joseph Baquet, Sr.,
Here are two more gumbo pot.” A gumbo made without a “namesake of the legendary 7th
Photo: Pableaux Johnson, Michael DeMocker

stories, both of which originate roux, it rests on the strong foun- Ward restaurant Eddie’s,” and went
in two very different traditions, dation of smothered okra (okra on to open a total of 11 restaurants
approaching the opposite poles of cooked low and slow in a covered over the ensuing 40 years.
the gumbo continuum. pot for 8 hours) and sweet, fresh Starting with his mother’s recipe,
shrimp. It’s seasoned simply with he and his father perfected their
NOT ALL CAJUN GUMBO onions; bay leaf; modest amounts gumbo—commonly referenced as
IS WHAT YOU EXPECT of black and cayenne pepper; and a one of the city’s finest—by engi-
Melissa M. Martin is a coastal Lou- mild, vinegary Louisiana hot sauce. neering a fully seasoned dry roux
isiana Cajun by birth, lauded New This is the gumbo by which Mar- (toasted in the oven) that would
Orleans chef by profession, and tin judges all others. It’s a gumbo ensure that the family gumbo tasted

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 15

 the same at each of their restaurants.
In addition to their signature roux,
their Creole filé gumbo features
crab, shrimp, their own homemade
hot sausage, smoked sausage, and
ham. The trinity; garlic; bay leaf;
thyme (which Baquet notes is
essential); and a final sprinkling of
earthy, green tea–like filé powder
round out the extraordinary gumbo.
It’s relatively light and brothy but in
no way insubstantial. Rather, it’s rich
and robust (just as Baquet says that
gumbo has “got to be”), unforgetta-
ble and completely distinct. Baquet’s
final word on gumbo, when asked
to define it, was that “gumbo is the
soup of New Orleans with soul
in it.” If any bowl of soup can
be said to have a soul, a kind of
essence that exists apart from and
transcendent of its mere physical
components, Li’l Dizzy’s gumbo
would be the one.
Perhaps this is the deeper mean-
ing of the common refrain that
“gumbo is personal.” Chances are, if
you’re a Louisiana family—whether
you’re surrounded by brackish
bayous on tendrils of land fading
into the great Gulf or you can trace
your Creole ancestry back to the
names on crypts in 200-year-old
New Orleans cemeteries—you have
a family gumbo. You make a version
of the one you love so much because
that’s the one your mother made
and because her mother did too.

A NEW GUMBO STORY BEGINS

Though she made the world’s finest
potato salad, my mother did not
make gumbo. Just three and a half
years into my life in New Orleans, I
am a relatively fresh convert to the
religion of gumbo. But I am devout,
absorbing the cuisine and every-
thing written about the cuisine at as
fast a clip as one human can handle.
My gumbo story is short, but I am
still writing it.
I had my first gumbo in New
Orleans on a trip with a girl while
we were still at the beginning stages
of careening wildly into love. I can
still see the single red crab claw,
emerging from gumbo’s dark waters,
beckoning me in. That trip hooked

16 COO K’S COUN TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

me on the soup and the girl for SMOKY CHICKEN, SAUSAGE, AND SHRIMP GUMBO whisking constantly, until roux
good. A native of New Orleans Serves 10 to 14 Total Time: 4½ hours is color of milk chocolate, 8 to
with French-Sicilian roots, she’s You will need a 7-quart or larger Dutch oven or a heavy-bottomed large 14 minutes. (Roux will begin to
now my wife of 14 years, and she stock pot for this recipe. You can substitute 3 pounds of mixed bone-in, smoke during final few minutes of
is the first person to have made skin-on chicken pieces for the whole chicken. Making the roux quickly, cooking.) Reduce heat to medium
me gumbo. She always told me as called for here, requires constant attention and whisking, so moni- and add bell peppers, celery, sugar,
to take my time with the roux, to tor it closely, and be sure to have your prepped vegetables at the ready. Creole seasoning, and chopped
stir it for as long as it takes to play We strongly recommend using good-quality Louisiana andouille and onions. Cook, stirring and scrap-
one side of a record. Later on, the smoked sausage, such as those from Jacob’s World Famous Andouille. ing bottom of pot often, until
cookbooks of Paul Prudhomme Bourgeois Meat Market in Thibodaux is another good online resource vegetables are softened, about
dared me to make the roux faster for smoked sausages. In a pinch, you can substitute kielbasa for either 10 minutes.
and darker, preheating the oil or both. The saltiness of the final dish will vary depending on the pork 5. Stir in pepper, paprika, white
to the smoke point before add- products you use, so liberal seasoning with additional salt before serving pepper, and minced garlic
ing the flour and stirring for only may be necessary. We like to serve this gumbo with Crystal Hot Sauce. and cook until fragrant, about
about 10 minutes. My wife hasn’t 2 minutes. Add reserved stock,
divorced me yet. 1 (3-pound) whole chicken, chicken and cook, turning as andouille sausage, thyme sprigs,
Of course, Johnson’s gumbo has giblets discarded needed, until well browned on and remaining 2 bay leaves, scrap-
had a huge impact on mine as well. 1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons all sides, 10 to 12 minutes. Add ing up any browned bits. Bring to
From him I take the stock-first vegetable oil, divided broth, ham hocks, halved onion, simmer over medium-high heat.
approach, replacing the turkey 12 cups chicken broth reserved shrimp shells, smashed Cover, reduce heat to low, and
with a whole chicken and layer- 2 (12-ounce) smoked ham hocks garlic, and 2 bay leaves and bring simmer for 1 hour.
ing in smokiness with ham hocks. 3 onions (1 halved, 2 chopped), to simmer over high heat. Reduce 6. Meanwhile, cook smoked
He’s convinced me completely divided heat to low; cover; and simmer sausage in 12-inch nonstick skil-
about using two kinds of sausage; 1½ pounds large shrimp (26 to 30 per until chicken registers at least let over medium-high heat until
two of my personal favorites are pound), peeled, deveined, tails 160 degrees in breasts and thighs, browned, 7 to 10 minutes. Using
the intensely smoky kind from removed, and shells reserved 40 to 45 minutes. slotted spoon, transfer sausage to
Bourgeois Meat Market out in 16 garlic cloves (6 smashed, 2. Off heat, transfer chicken to plate; set aside.
Thibodaux, Louisiana (thank 10 minced), divided cutting board and let cool slightly. 7. Add okra, shredded chicken
you to the kind man behind the 4 bay leaves, divided Pull meat from bones, shred into and ham, and browned sausage to
counter there for teaching me how 1½ cups all-purpose flour bite-size pieces with 2 forks, and gumbo and cook, covered, until
to pronounce AHN-doo-ee), and 2 green bell peppers, stemmed, transfer to bowl; refrigerate meat okra is tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
Jacob’s World Famous Andouille. seeded, and chopped while finishing stock. Add skin Add shrimp and cook, uncovered,
And since I learned to love 3 celery ribs, chopped and bones to stock and bring to until opaque, about 5 minutes. Off
gumbo first in the “more is more” 1 tablespoon sugar simmer over medium-high heat. heat, skim excess fat from surface
Creole style of the city, I side with 1 tablespoon Tony Chachere’s Reduce heat to medium-low; of gumbo. Discard bay leaves and
their abundant approach when Creole Seasoning cover; and simmer until ham thyme sprigs. Season with salt and
adding things to my pot. After all, 2½ teaspoons pepper hocks are tender, 1 to 1½ hours. pepper to taste. Serve over rice,
gumbo is a celebration, and I made 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 3. Off heat, transfer ham hocks to sprinkled with scallions.
my first, proudest, big batches for 1 teaspoon white pepper cutting board and let cool slightly.
the most revered high holidays: 1 pound Jacob’s World Famous Strain stock through fine-mesh
one at Thanksgiving and then andouille sausage, quartered strainer set over large bowl or THE RiGHT ROUX HUE
again for Christmas a month later lengthwise and sliced container (you should have about Cook the roux, whisking con-
and then again for Mardi Gras the ½ inch thick 12 cups stock; add water as needed stantly, until it is the color of
following March, adding to a cycli- 12 sprigs fresh thyme to make up difference). Shred ham milk chocolate.
cal story I hope never ends and 1 pound Jacob’s World Famous hocks into bite-size pieces and
only gets richer. smoked sausage, sliced ¼ inch transfer to bowl with chicken meat
I lavished love on those gumbos, thick (keep refrigerated); discard skin
carefully and patiently tending 12 ounces fresh or frozen okra, and bones. Skim excess fat from
to them, knowing full well that trimmed and cut into ½-inch surface of stock using large spoon
they would reward me, that when pieces or ladle; set aside. (Cooled stock
I ladled the gumbo into bowls for 6–8 cups cooked white rice and shredded meats can be refrig-
my friends and family to feast on 8 scallions, sliced thin erated separately for up to 3 days
that I would be proud and that or frozen for up to 1 month; thaw
it would be more than worth it, 1 . Pat chicken dry inside and out before using.)
knowing that if you’re going to with paper towels. Heat 2 table- 4. Heat remaining 1¼ cups oil
go to the effort to make a gumbo, spoons oil in 7-quart or larger in now-empty, dry Dutch oven
it should be one worth telling Dutch oven over medium-high over medium-high heat until just
stories about. heat until just smoking. Add smoking. Add flour and cook,

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • COO K’S COU NT RY 17

 GETTING TO K N O W

SHRIMP
Learn how to shop for and prep
these small crustaceans.
by Megan Ginsberg

SHOPPiNG FOR SHRiMP

BUY FROZEN
For the “freshest” shrimp, we actually recommend buying bagged
frozen shrimp. Most shrimp sold at fish counters have been previ-
ously frozen and then defrosted; once shrimp are defrosted, their
quality starts to decline rapidly.

BUY SHELL-ON
Seek out shell-on shrimp, which are typically cheaper, sweeter,
and firmer than prepeeled shrimp. Plus, you can use the shells for
stock (see “What to Do With Shrimp Shells”).

AVOID ADDITIVES
Check the ingredient list to make sure that shrimp is the only
ingredient listed. Many shrimp are treated with salt or additives
such as sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP); this chemical can give
the shrimp an off-flavor and a rubbery texture, so it is best avoided.

WILD VERSUS FARMED

Wild shrimp are often more expensive, but they tend to be sweeter
than farmed.

SHRiMP SiZES
Shrimp are sold by size and by the number of raw, unfrozen shrimp
needed to equal a pound. Because size labels can vary, using the
per-pound number to purchase what you need is more accurate.

EXTRA- SMALL MEDiUM MEDiUM- LARGE EXTRA-LARGE JUMBO EXTRA- COLOSSAL

SMALL (51 TO 60 (41 TO 50 LARGE (26 TO 30 (21 TO 25 (16 TO 20 JUMBO (UNDER 12
(61 TO 70 PER POUND) PER POUND) (31 TO 40 PER POUND) PER POUND) PER POUND) (UNDER 15 PER POUND)
PER POUND) PER POUND) PER POUND) Illustration: Rose Flynn

18 CO O K’S COUN T RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 HOW TO PEEL AND DEVEiN SHRiMP
Shrimp shells are edible, but if you’re following a recipe that calls for
removing them, here’s how to do it.

1. Break shell on underside, under swimming 2. If recipe calls for removing tails, tug tail to
legs, which will come off as shell is removed. remove shell. If not removing tails, pinch tail to
hold in place while removing shell.

Our recipe for Shrimp Po’ Boys 3. Using paring knife, make shallow cut 4. Using tip of knife, lift out vein. Discard vein
is available at
along back of shrimp to expose vein-like by wiping knife blade against paper towel.
AmericasTestKitchen.com/poboys
digestive tract.

HOW TO DEFROST SHRiMP WHAT TO DO WiTH 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

We recommend thawing frozen shrimp SHRiMP SHELLS 11⁄2 cups shrimp shells
in the refrigerator overnight. But if you An added benefit of buying 1 tablespoon tomato paste
forget, you can quickly thaw shrimp by shell-on shrimp is being able to 2 cups water
placing them in a colander under cold use the shells to make a flavor-
running water for a few minutes, stirring ful shrimp stock, which can be Heat oil in 12-inch skillet
occasionally. Thoroughly drain and pat added to chowder, risotto, gumbo, over medium-high heat until
them dry before using. and more. –Lawman Johnson shimmering. Add shrimp shells
and cook until spotty brown,
QU ICK SHRI MP STOCK 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in tomato
Makes about 11⁄2 cups paste and cook until fragrant,
Total Time: 25 minutes about 30 seconds. Add water
Use this recipe as a guide: and bring to boil. Cover, reduce
The quantity of water can be heat to low, and simmer for
adjusted to accommodate fewer 5 minutes. Strain stock, press-
or more shrimp shells. The ing on solids to extract as much
water should cover the majority liquid as possible; discard shells.
of the shells in the skillet. Stock can be refrigerated in air-
tight container for up to 1 week
or frozen for up to 2 months.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COU N TRY 19

 BIG-BATCH
SAZERACS
Because sometimes you need a round of
cocktails at the ready. by Matthew Fairman

A R O M AT I C A N D C O M P L E X ready to pour for a group at a

in flavor, the Sazerac is one of moment’s notice.
America’s oldest cocktails and a sig- The measured added water
We call for rye
nature drink of New Orleans. The means that you don’t need to add here, but bourbon
fact that it remains hugely popular ice cubes and shake before serving makes a fine
Sazerac too.
around the Crescent City—a place and ensures the perfect amount of
known for storied bars and famous dilution so that you can serve the
drinks and that boasts a booming, cocktail straight up to your guests,
growing cocktail scene—is a testa- right from the fridge.
ment to its excellence.
The drink gets its name BI G -BATCH SAZ ERACS
from a cognac called Sazerac de Makes 8 cocktails
Forge et Fils, which was used Total Time: 10 minutes,
in early iterations of the cock- plus 2 hours chilling
tail; that cognac has since been If you’re serving only one or two
replaced by whiskey—either rye cocktails at a time, pour ½ teaspoon
or bourbon. This classic is easy of absinthe into the first glass in
to make ahead in large batches, step 2.

16 ounces rye whiskey

ABOUT 8 ounces water
ABSiNTHE 8 teaspoons sugar
Absinthe is an anise-flavored, 1 teaspoon Peychaud’s bitters
bitter green liquor with an air of 1 tablespoon absinthe or Herbsaint
mystery. The strong, overproof 8 (3-inch) strips lemon peel
spirit is made with botanicals
including wormwood, which can 1 . Stir rye, water, sugar, and bitters
cause hallucinations when con- in serving pitcher or large contain- PEYCHAUD’S BiTTERS
sumed in very large amounts; er until sugar has dissolved. Cover No ingredient outside of spirits has a greater impact on
modern-day absinthe has only and refrigerate until well chilled, at a cocktail’s flavor than bitters. There are two main types
trace amounts. Nicknamed least 2 hours or up to 1 month. of bitters: potable and cocktail (or nonpotable). The for-
the “green fairy,” the drink was 2 . Pour absinthe into 1 chilled mer are liqueurs intended for consumption on their own,
popular with artists and writers old-fashioned glass, then tilt and typically as an aperitif or digestif (think Campari and
including Degas, Van Gogh, rotate glass to coat interior wall. Italian amari such as Fernet-Branca or Montenegro);
Picasso, and Hemingway, who Pour excess absinthe into second the latter are intensely concentrated elixirs designed to
chased the drink’s psychoactiv- chilled old-fashioned glass and tilt bring nuance and complexity to cocktails.
ity as a muse. A traditional way and rotate glass to coat interior. There are hundreds of types of cocktail bitters, but the
to enjoy absinthe is to pour it in Repeat pouring off excess absinthe two most common commercial varieties are Angostura
a glass and then drizzle water and coating interiors of 6 more and Peychaud’s. Peychaud’s was first produced in New
over a sugar cube on a special old-fashioned glasses; discard Orleans in 1832 (it is now made in Kentucky) and is the
absinthe spoon above it; this excess absinthe. traditional—some would say only—choice for Sazeracs.
process sweetens and dilutes 3. Stir cocktail to recombine, then These bitters are made with a high proportion of gentian
the strong liquor, while giv- pour into prepared glasses. Pinch root and have a strong anise aroma, with hints of mint
ing it an enchantingly opaque, lemon peel over each drink, rub and citrus when tasted on their own. They bring their
milky appearance. outer edge of glass with peel, then unique character and subtle depth to Sazeracs and
garnish with lemon peel and serve. other cocktails.

20 COO K’S COUN TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 TUNA, FENNEL, AND RADISH SALAD TOASTS QUICK BEEF STEW WITH MUSHROOMS AND DIJON

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 25 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

HONEY-ROASTED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS WITH CARROTS PESTO POTATO FRITTATA WITH PEAS AND GOAT CHEESE

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

 Quick Beef Stew with Mushrooms and Dijon Tuna, Fennel, and Radish Salad Toasts

Sirloin steak tips are often sold as flap high heat. Add beef and cook, stir- A mandoline makes quick work of 1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over
meat. Serve with mashed potatoes, ring occasionally, until browned, thinly slicing the fennel and radishes. medium-high heat until shim-
egg noodles, rice, or crusty bread and 6 to 8 minutes; transfer to plate. We developed this recipe using a mering. Add bread and cook until
sprinkle with chopped fresh chives. round boule, but any rustic, crusty
golden and toasted, 2 to 3 min-
bread will work.
2 . Add cremini mushrooms, onion, utes per side. Transfer toasts to
1½ pounds sirloin steak tips, platter and rub cut sides of garlic
tomato paste, rosemary, and
trimmed and cut into ½-inch ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
remaining ½ teaspoon salt to fat on toasts.
cubes 4 slices thick-crusted country
left in pot and cook over medium
1½ teaspoons table salt, divided bread, 6 inches wide and
heat, stirring occasionally, until 2. Combine tuna, fennel slices,
4 tablespoons unsalted butter ¾ inch thick
vegetables begin to soften and parsley, radishes, lemon zest and
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, 1 garlic clove, halved
tomato paste darkens, 4 to 7 min- juice, salt, pepper, and pepper
trimmed and quartered 2 (5- to 7-ounce) cans/jars
utes. Stir in flour and cook for flakes in large bowl. Season with
1 onion, chopped olive oil–packed tuna, flaked,
1 minute. Stir in broth and water, salt and pepper to taste. Mound
¼ cup tomato paste with packing oil
scraping up any browned bits. Stir salad onto toasts and sprinkle
1 teaspoon chopped fresh 1 fennel bulb, 1 tablespoon
in porcini mushrooms, mustard, with fennel fronds. Serve.
rosemary fronds chopped; stalks
and beef, along with any accumu-
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour discarded; bulb halved,
lated juices, and bring to boil.
2 cups beef broth cored, and sliced very thin
1 cup water ½ cup fresh parsley leaves
3. Reduce heat to low and simmer,
½ ounce dried porcini 3 radishes, trimmed and
covered, until beef and vegetables
mushrooms, rinsed sliced thin
are tender, about 10 minutes (or
and chopped fine 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
up to 1 hour if time allows; the
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard plus 2 tablespoons juice
meat will get more tender the lon-
½ teaspoon table salt
ger it’s simmered. Add extra water
1 . Pat beef dry with paper towels ¼ teaspoon pepper
if stew gets too thick). Season
and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
with salt to taste. Serve.
Melt butter in Dutch oven over

Pesto Potato Frittata with Peas and Goat Cheese Honey-Roasted Chicken Drumsticks with Carrots

You can use homemade or 2 . Melt butter in 12-inch ovensafe For a heartier meal, serve with a arrange in single layer on half of
store-bought pesto here. Serve this nonstick skillet over medium-high salad, rice pilaf, or buttered noodles. prepared sheet.
frittata with a green salad to round heat. Add potatoes, pesto, and
out the meal. 1 pound carrots, peeled and 2. Whisk honey, Worcestershire,
remaining ½ teaspoon salt and
cook, stirring frequently, until halved crosswise, thicker 1 tablespoon vinegar, garlic,
10 large eggs pieces halved lengthwise and paprika together in small
potatoes are tender and lightly
½ cup half-and-half 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, saucepan. Pat chicken dry with
browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Stir
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided melted paper towels and sprinkle with
in peas and cook until warmed
¼ teaspoon pepper 1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided remaining 1¼ teaspoons salt and
through, about 1 minute. Stir in
2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¾ teaspoon pepper, divided ½ teaspoon pepper. Toss chicken
egg mixture and sprinkle evenly
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, ¼ cup honey with 2 tablespoons honey mixture
with goat cheese. Transfer skillet
peeled and cut into ½-inch 2 tablespoons Worcestershire in now-empty bowl, then arrange
to oven and bake until frittata is
pieces sauce on empty half of prepared sheet.
just set in center, 10 to 12 minutes.
½ cup pesto 5 teaspoons cider vinegar, Roast for 20 minutes.
Let rest for 5 minutes. Serve.
1 cup frozen peas divided
4 ounces goat cheese, 2 garlic cloves, minced 3. Bring remaining honey mixture
crumbled (1 cup) 1 teaspoon smoked paprika to boil over medium-high heat
3 pounds chicken drumsticks, and cook until reduced to 3 table-
1 . Adjust oven rack to trimmed spoons, about 3 minutes. Brush
upper-middle position and heat chicken with glaze and continue
oven to 375 degrees. Whisk eggs, 1. Adjust oven rack to middle to roast until chicken registers
half-and-half, ¼ teaspoon salt, position and heat oven to at least 175 degrees and carrots
and pepper together in bowl. 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking are tender, about 10 minutes.
sheet with aluminum foil and Remove chicken and carrots
spray with vegetable oil spray. from sheet. Stir remaining 2 tea-
Toss carrots, butter, ½ teaspoon spoons vinegar into drippings.
salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper Spoon drippings over chicken
together in large bowl, then and carrots and serve.
PORK CHOPS WITH SPICY TOMATO-BRAISED ESCAROLE WHITE BEAN AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO BURGERS

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 35 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

CREAMY SHRIMP AND ANDOUILLE PENNE PORK TACOS WITH ORANGE SALSA

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 1 HOUR DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 30 MINUTES

 White Bean and Sun-Dried Tomato Burgers Pork Chops with Spicy Tomato-Braised Escarole

Drain the beans thoroughly 2. Place half of beans in large This recipe is inspired by Hilda 1 . Pat chops dry with paper
after rinsing. bowl and mash with potato Minter’s Spicy Escarole from Molly towels. Sprinkle all over with
masher. Add remaining beans O’Neill’s cookbook One Big Table 1¼ teaspoons salt and pep-
½ cup mayonnaise and mash coarse until partially (2010). We like to serve cornbread
per. Heat oil in Dutch oven over
½ cup chopped fresh basil, on the side.
broken down. In separate bowl, medium-high heat until just
divided whisk together egg and remaining smoking. Add chops and cook
1⁄3 cup oil-packed sun-dried 4 (8- to 10-ounce) bone-in pork
1 tablespoon tomato packing oil, until well browned on 1 side,
tomatoes, chopped fine, plus rib chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick,
remaining garlic, and remaining about 5 minutes. Transfer chops,
2 tablespoons packing oil, trimmed
½ teaspoon salt. Stir egg mixture, browned side up, to plate.
divided 1½ teaspoons table salt, divided
panko, tomatoes, and remaining
2 garlic cloves, minced, divided ¾ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup basil into mashed beans 2. Add pepperoni, garlic, and
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
until combined. Divide mixture pepper flakes to fat left in pot
2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini olive oil
into 4 equal portions and lightly and cook until fragrant, about
beans, rinsed, divided 2 ounces link pepperoni, cut
pack into 1-inch-thick patties. 1 minute. Stir in escarole, toma-
1 large egg into ¼-inch dice
Transfer patties to plate and toes and their juice, oregano, and
2⁄3 cup panko bread crumbs 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin
refrigerate for 10 minutes. remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook
2 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
until escarole is wilted, about
4 hamburger buns, split and 1 head escarole (1 pound),
3. Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch 3 minutes, stirring occasionally
toasted trimmed and cut into 1-inch
nonstick skillet over medium heat and breaking up tomatoes with
1½ ounces (1½ cups) pieces
until shimmering. Add patties wooden spoon.
baby arugula 1 (14.5-ounce) can stewed
and cook until well browned and
tomatoes
heated through, about 4 minutes 3. Arrange chops, browned side
1. Combine mayonnaise, 1⁄4 cup 1 tablespoon chopped fresh
per side. Spread mayonnaise mix- up, in pot and add any accu-
basil, 1 tablespoon tomato packing oregano
ture on cut sides of buns. Place mulated juices. Reduce heat to
oil, half of garlic, and ¼ teaspoon burgers on bun bottoms, top with medium-low; cover; and simmer
salt in bowl; set aside. arugula, and add bun tops. Serve. until chops register 140 degrees,
5 to 10 minutes. Serve.

Pork Tacos with Orange Salsa Creamy Shrimp and Andouille Penne

We like to serve these tacos with 1 . Cut away peel and pith from Sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves. pasta and cook until al dente.
diced avocado and finely shredded oranges. Holding fruit over bowl, Drain pasta in colander and leave
cabbage. use paring knife to slice between Table salt for cooking pasta in colander.
membranes to release segments 12 ounces penne
2 oranges into bowl. Add onion, cilantro, ser- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2. Melt butter in now-empty Dutch
1 small red onion, halved and rano, lime juice, and ½ teaspoon 8 ounces andouille sausage, oven over medium-high heat. Add
sliced thin salt and toss to combine. Set halved lengthwise and sliced andouille and cook until browned,
2 tablespoons minced fresh aside salsa. ¼ inch thick 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic,
cilantro 1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour and 2 teaspoons Creole season-
1 serrano chile, stemmed and 2. Combine pork, Sazón, and 4 garlic cloves, minced ing and cook until fragrant, about
sliced thin remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in 1 tablespoon Tony Chachere’s 30 seconds. Whisk in half-and-half
1 tablespoon lime juice, plus 12-inch nonstick skillet and cook Original Creole Seasoning, and cook until thickened, about
wedges for serving over medium-high heat, breaking divided 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided up meat with wooden spoon, until 1½ cups half-and-half and whisk in 1 cup fontina until
1 pound ground pork cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. 8 ounces fontina cheese, melted. Add shrimp and cook, stir-
2 teaspoons Goya Sazón with Stir in tomato paste and chipotle shredded (2 cups), divided ring, until shrimp are just opaque,
Coriander and Annatto and cook until paste darkens, 1 pound extra-large shrimp 2 to 3 minutes.
2 tablespoons tomato paste about 1 minute. Stir in water and (21 to 25 per pound), peeled,
1 tablespoon minced canned cook until sauce thickens and deveined, tails removed, and 3. Off heat, stir in pasta. Sprinkle
chipotle chile in adobo sauce coats meat, about 2 minutes. cut into thirds with remaining 1 cup fontina and
½ cup water remaining 1 teaspoon Creole
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas, 3. Divide filling evenly among 1. Adjust oven rack to middle seasoning. Broil until cheese is
warmed tortillas and top with salsa. Serve position and heat broiler. Bring melted and beginning to bubble,
with lime wedges. 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch 2 to 5 minutes. Serve.
oven. Add 1 tablespoon salt and
 Fried
Cheese
Curds
Milwaukee’s Dairyland
brings fine-dining precision
to burger-joint food.
by Bryan Roof; photos by Steve Klise

R
OU IPE
C
RE

Find on
page 27.
S TA N D I N G I N F R O N T of shops and just be disappointed. help them melt at a more mea-
Dairyland Old-Fashioned Fro- We both have this classical [culi- sured pace. When an order comes
zen Custard & Hamburgers in nary] training. So the burgers, in, they toss the curds in just
Milwaukee, chef and co-owner the chicken tenders, the chicken enough batter to barely coat them.
Kurt Fogle tells me with a calm, sandwiches, the onion rings, the “We don’t want to actually eat a M I LWA U K E E
matter-of-fact confidence, cheese curds—we give them the lot of extra batter. It may not seem
“Milwaukee is the center of same attention and same level of like it’s fully coated, but you’ll see
the universe for quality cheese- work as we would in a fine dining it’s going to puff up [while frying]
burgers.” His Midwest politeness restaurant. [But] no hiding behind and make a nice shell,” McCor-
then kicks in and he quickly adds, fig jam and whipped Brie and mick says as he drops a batch
“No offense to anyone else.” caramelized shallots. None of it.” into the fryer. He lets them fry
He’s talking about cheese- Fried cheese curds are a custom- undisturbed for the first minute to
burgers, but he could easily be er favorite, more popular today, allow the crust to develop and to
talking about cheese curds, a according to Fogle, than when prevent the curds from “coming
signature side dish at the res- he was growing up. While most out of their clothes.”
taurant he co-owns with fellow restaurants buy frozen prebat- The curds emerge from the
chef Joe McCormick. “Kurt and tered curds from big food-service fryer as golden-brown nuggets
I are cosmically aligned kindred distributors, at Dairyland they with little pockets of cheese ooz-
spirits,” McCormick says. purchase fresh curds from the ing through tiny pin-size holes
The pair, both born and nearby Clock Shadow Creamery in the coating. “Everything’s nice
raised in Wisconsin, came up and then batter and fry them to and melty,” McCormick says. “It’s
cooking in fine-dining restau- order in their own house-made the deceptive simplicity. Every-
rants in cities from Chicago to beer batter. The goal, as McCor- thing is simple on its surface, but
New York. After growing tired mick says, is clear: “It’s gotta be a it takes more than just slapping
of working for other people, they little salty, it’s gotta be crispy, it’s [together] some beer and flour and
returned to Wisconsin and to the gotta be gooey, it’s gotta make you putting cheese in a fryer to make
popular foods of their home state: want to have another beer.” something really nice.”
burgers, frozen custard, and fried Speaking of beer, it plays a key McCormick says that growing
cheese curds, all made with the role in the cheese curd batter. up in Wisconsin, everybody had
best local ingredients. “The best beer for this application their go-to burger and custard
After experimenting with is actually the cheapest, worst beer shop, a place they frequented as
pop-ups and a food truck, Fogle you can find,” McCormick says. a kid, a place that holds special
and McCormick finally opened a “[Cheap beer is] actually very well memories. At Dairyland, he
permanent location at 3rd Street balanced. There’s not one over- and Fogle hope to preserve that
Market Hall in downtown Milwau- powering flavor in it, but it gives burger-shop legacy. “This is part
kee in January 2022, with Fogle’s a nice, clean, bright, sweet, malty of our culture and tradition. We
wife, Katie, and his cousin Brent character. And there is just a little think it’s worth celebrating and
on board as partners. bit of hop bitterness, just enough continuing. And it’s something for
Their intention wasn’t to upend to give you that beer flavor.” my children to have. A place [for
the foundation of a typical Wis- Also in the batter: flour, them] to go and be like, ‘yeah, this
consin burger and custard shop cornstarch for crispiness, paprika was my place growing up.’”
but rather to increase its caliber. for color, salt, and baking powder It all comes back to a simple
“We’re interested in digging deep to help the crust puff slightly question, Fogle says. “What can
and improving quality wherever as it fries. we do as a result of our work that
we can,” Fogle says. “You know, Fogle and McCormick freeze leaves Milwaukee, and Wisconsin,
you can only go to so many burger the fresh curds before frying to better than we found it?”
MILWAUKE

What Are Cheese Curds?

To make cheese curds, coagulants are added to milk, causing the milk to solid-
ify. The solidified milk is cut and heated to separate the curds from the liquid Clockwise from top left: Inside the 3rd Stree
whey. To make cheddar cheese, the cut and drained curds would get pressed Market Hall in downtown Milwaukee, Wiscon
sin; Joe McCormick sampling a crispy, gooey
together in a mold overnight and aged, but some are diverted to be sold as
Illustration: Rose Flynn

cheese curd; selection of Dairyland’s flavore

fresh curds. These are just gently pressed for a few hours before being tossed sodas; Kurt Fogle presenting some of the m
with salt. Cheese curds have a rubbery, squeaky texture. Their flavor is mild and popular menu selections.
salty. Aside from frying, they are also commonly used in poutine. When you fry
the curds, they melt and become pliable, creating delectable cheese pulls. FR ESH CUR DS

26 COO K’S COU NT RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 FRI ED C HE ESE CURDS WITH RANC H DRESSIN G
Serves 2 to 4 Total Time: 1 hour, plus 2½ hours chilling and freezing
The cheese curds should average 1 inch in length; break any that are larger
into smaller pieces. Note that the cheese curds need to be frozen for 2 hours
before frying. We recommend weighing the flour and cornstarch for the
most consistent results. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more. When
dropping the curds into the hot oil, it’s best to hold the bowl close to the oil
to minimize splatter.

DR ESSI NG (Curds can be frozen for up

1⁄3 cup buttermilk to 1 month.)
1⁄3 cup mayonnaise 3. When ready to fry, whisk flour,
3 tablespoons sour cream cornstarch, paprika, baking powder,
2 tablespoons chopped fresh and salt together in bowl. Whisk in
cilantro beer until no lumps remain (texture
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives should resemble pancake batter).
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill Let batter sit for 5 minutes to
1 garlic clove, minced thicken fully.
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 4. Divide frozen curds evenly among
½ teaspoon granulated garlic 3 medium bowls. Add ¼ cup batter
¼ teaspoon table salt to each bowl of curds and stir to
¼ teaspoon pepper combine (curds should be just coated
Pinch cayenne with batter). Set bowls aside and dis-
card any remaining batter. Set wire
CURDS rack in rimmed baking sheet. Add
1 pound cheddar cheese curds oil to Dutch oven until it measures
½ cup (2½ ounces) all-purpose flour about 1½ inches deep and heat over
½ cup (2 ounces) cornstarch medium-high heat to 350 degrees.
1½ teaspoons paprika 5. Working with 1 bowl at a time,
1 teaspoon baking powder position bowl close to oil and, using
¾ teaspoon table salt dinner spoon, slide curds into oil,
2⁄3 cup lager or other light beer one at a time, moving bowl as you
EE 2 quarts vegetable oil for frying dispense curds. Fry, without stirring,
until golden brown, 1 to 1½ minutes.
1. FOR T HE D R ESSING: (Pockets of melted cheese should
Whisk all ingredients together barely begin to show through crust.
in bowl. Refrigerate for at least Don’t worry if some curds clump
et 30 minutes to allow flavors to together; they can be separated once
n- blend. Season with salt to taste. removed from oil.) Using spider
y
ed
(Dressing can be refrigerated for skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer
ost up to 3 days.) curds to prepared rack.
2. FOR T HE CU RDS : Place 6. Return oil to 350 degrees and
cheese curds in zipper-lock bag, repeat with remaining curds, stirring
seal bag, and lay bag flat in freezer. to recoat with batter before frying.
Freeze until solid, about 2 hours. Serve immediately with dressing.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COU NT RY 27

 Ann Redding created flavor-packed REVE RSE- SE AR E D ST RI P
American food inspired by Matt’s STEAKS WITH COWBOY BUTTER
grandparents, Frank and Rose, for Serves 4
their small operation. Some menu Total Time: 1½ hours
items were served with the option You can use a nonstick skillet in
of sauces; the most coveted was place of cast iron; heat the oil in
cowboy butter. It was inspired by the nonstick skillet over medium-
and named after Grandma Rose’s high heat until just smoking before
shoot-from-the-hip mentality of adding the steaks. This recipe also
stirring together whatever condi- works with boneless rib-eye steaks
ments she would find in the fridge of a similar thickness.
with melted butter. “Grandma
Rose thought she was being a cow- COWBOY BUTTER
boy by not following a recipe and 6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
just throwing it together,” Matt cut into six 1-tablespoon pieces
reveals. “[I] think she was onto and softened, divided
something. The whole idea behind 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
it is making it yours and personal- 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
izing it to your taste.” 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
With a tip of the hat to 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Grandma Rose, I wanted my ½ teaspoon paprika
version to be a glossy emulsified ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
butter sauce that could pair with ¼ teaspoon pepper
thick-cut steaks and also enhance ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
any vegetables on the table. It’s 3 garlic cloves, minced
easy: Just stir together softened 1 tablespoon water
butter with chives, parsley, Dijon
We use the reverse-sear mustard, lemon juice, paprika, ST RIP STE AKS
method here for steaks
cayenne, and salt and pepper. 2 (12- to 16-ounce) boneless strip
that are cooked just right.
Then, melt a good pat of but- steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick,
ter, add minced garlic and a little trimmed
water, and stir for 30 seconds. 1 tablespoon kosher salt

Strip Steaks
Pour this over the original butter 1 teaspoon pepper
mixture and stir: The water helps 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

with Cowboy
emulsify the butter into a sauce
that’s creamy, not greasy, and has 1. FOR T HE COW BOY
a consistency somewhere between BU TTER: Combine 5 tablespoons

Butter
that of softened and fully melted butter, chives, parsley, mustard,
butter. Once you get the con- lemon juice, paprika, cayenne,
cept down, you can make it your pepper, and salt in small bowl and
own—just like Rose. mash with fork. Set aside.
Our tried-and-true method when 2. FOR THE S TRI P S TE AKS :
Perfect steaks with a punchy, buttery sauce. cooking steaks is reverse searing. Adjust oven rack to middle position
No horse or saddle required. by Mark Huxsoll The name stems from the fact that and heat oven to 275 degrees. Set
you sear the steaks after you’ve wire rack in rimmed baking sheet.
warmed them in a low oven to Pat steaks dry with paper towels,
about 30 degrees below their target sprinkle all over with salt and pep-
THE IDEA OF cowboy butter cook. There are many recipes for it temperature for doneness. This per, and place on 1 side of prepared
can be traced back to cattlemen in in food publications and blogs, and allows you to cook the steaks for the rack. Bake until steaks register
the Old West mixing thick, sticky they’re all wildly different. first phase gently and evenly in the 90 to 95 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes.
sorghum molasses with leftover We did some digging and oven, which has the added benefit of 3. Heat 12-inch cast-iron skil-
ham or bacon grease into a spread- discovered a modern take from drying their exteriors so that they’ll let over medium-high heat for
able paste to smear on hardtack. the now-closed Mr. Donahue’s brown more readily when you sear 5 minutes. Add oil to skillet and
In contemporary America, cowboy restaurant in Manhattan’s Nolita them in a skillet. The rosy slices of swirl to coat. Add steaks and cook
butter is a compound butter whose neighborhood. There, husband steak are the perfect vehicle to soak until well browned and registering
ingredients vary from cook to and wife partners Matt Danzer and up the delicious cowboy butter. 125 degrees (for medium-rare),

28 CO O K’S COU NT RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 Mustard-Roasted
about 2 minutes per side. Return
Potatoes
steaks to clean side of now-empty Golden roasted potatoes cooked with and coated in a brassy
rack and let rest for 5 minutes. combination of mustards. by Amanda Luchtel
4. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon
butter in now-empty skillet over
medium-low heat. Add garlic RECIPES INSPIRED BY
and water and cook, stirring supermarket condiments are a
constantly, until fragrant, about fun and time-tested marketing
30 seconds. Carefully pour garlic ploy. Makers of ketchup, may-
mixture into softened butter onnaise, relish, hot sauce, and
mixture and stir until smooth and mustard have featured recipes
butter has consistency of pancake on the backs of their packages
batter. Slice steaks, transfer to for the better part of a century.
individual plates, and spoon sauce These recipes provide the
over steaks. Serve. consumer with the opportunity
to use the condiment in unex-
pected ways—and encourage
Building a Better Butter them to keep buying lots of it.
Sauce With flavor (not product sales)
as a driver, we wanted to create
a recipe for roasted potatoes
that highlighted the complex-
ity and bright sharpness of
different types of mustards,
packing in as much mustard
flavor as we could.
A sublime roasted potato
has got to have some flavorful
browning, and one easy path
there is to create flat sides
that lie smoothly on a rimmed
1. Combine 5 tablespoons butter, baking sheet. Halving small immediate mustard flavor. A bit 1. Adjust oven rack to lowest posi-
chives, parsley, mustard, lemon red potatoes was the right of rosemary—some added before tion and heat oven to 350 degrees.
juice, paprika, cayenne, pepper, move—their flat sides took roasting and more added after— Line rimmed baking sheet with
and salt in small bowl and mash on nice browning, the knife gave a nice flavor counterpoint. parchment paper. Toss potatoes,
with fork. work was easy, and they didn’t ¼ cup oil, whole-grain mustard,
require peeling. MUSTARD- ROASTE D 1 tablespoon rosemary, ¾ teaspoon
There are lots of varieties of POTATOES salt, and pepper in large bowl until
mustard to choose from, and we Serves 4 Total Time: 1¼ hours potatoes are evenly coated with
tested most of them both alone Use small red potatoes measuring oil mixture. Arrange potatoes cut
and in combination. In the end, 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. sides down on prepared sheet.
we loved the potatoes we coated Roast until potatoes are tender
in a mixture of whole-grain 2 pounds small red potatoes, and bottoms are golden brown,
mustard and olive oil before unpeeled, halved 50 minutes to 1 hour.
roasting; the oil added richness 6 tablespoons extra-virgin 2. Whisk Dijon mustard, garlic,
and thinned the mustard to a olive oil, divided lemon zest and juice, remain-
consistency that made it easy to 2 tablespoons whole-grain ing 2 tablespoons oil, remaining
evenly cover the potato halves, mustard 1 teaspoon rosemary, and remain-
2. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon and the whole mustard seeds 4 teaspoons chopped fresh ing ¼ teaspoon salt in large bowl
butter in now-empty skillet over became nutty and crisp in the rosemary, divided until smooth.
medium-low heat. Add garlic and oven, adding nice texture to the 1 teaspoon table salt, divided 3. Transfer roasted potatoes to
water and cook, stirring constantly, exteriors of the soft potatoes. ½ teaspoon pepper bowl with Dijon mixture and toss
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Tossing the roasted potatoes 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard until potatoes are evenly coated.
Carefully pour garlic mixture into with a mixture of Dijon mustard 2 garlic cloves, minced Season with salt and pepper to
softened butter mixture and stir and lemon zest and juice added 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest taste. Serve.
until smooth. brightness and more fresh, plus 1 teaspoon juice

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COUN T RY 29

 Apricots, olives, and
tangy goat cheese
add interest and
heft to this

Quinoa
satisfying
salad.

Salad(s) for
the Win
There’s a lot to love about this flavorful,
easy-to-cook ingredient. by Kelly Song

Q U I N OA ( “ K E E N -WA H ” ) where you boil the quinoa (no

has a delicious nutty flavor, cooks prerinsing required) in an ample
quickly, is relatively inexpensive, amount of salted water and then
and is a nutritional powerhouse. drain it in a fine-mesh strainer.
Often, this ancient Andean food The quinoa emerges well seasoned
is considered fodder for the and tender with a clean, nutty
super-health conscious. It is high flavor. To thoroughly cool and dry
in protein and contains all the the drained quinoa, we spread it
essential amino acids. But I think out on a baking sheet before intro-
quinoa deserves to be celebrated ducing it to the dressing.
for its appeal on the plate. We found that a simple vinai-
This “grain” is not a grain at all grette of olive oil and lemon juice
but rather the seeds of a flower- is the perfect complement. A mix-
ing plant in the amaranth family. ture of parsley, scallions, and
QU I NOA SAL A D 15 to 18 minutes. Drain quinoa, It comes in three colors—red, garlic further brightens the salad,
WIT H H ER BS A ND PA RM ESA N spread onto rimmed baking sheet, white, and black (see “The Colors along with crumbled Parmesan
Serves 4 to 6 and let cool for 20 minutes. of Quinoa”)—and while all work for a salty, complex finish. For
Total Time: 1 hour 2. Whisk oil, lemon zest and juice, in this recipe, we prefer the nut- a more elaborate variation, we
We prefer red quinoa in this garlic, pepper, and salt together in tier profile of red quinoa, which draw inspiration from Moroccan
salad. To crumble the Parmesan large bowl. retains its shape when dressed and cuisine and include dried apricots,
cheese, cut 2 ounces of cheese 3. Stir in cooled quinoa, pars- provides a host of complex textures green olives, walnuts, cumin, and
into two or three large pieces on ley, scallions, and Parmesan and flavors. cinnamon plus goat cheese for a
a cutting board, and then use a until evenly combined. Let sit As for cooking the quinoa, lots sharp flavor accent and creamy
fork to break the pieces into ¼- to for 10 minutes to allow flavors of people follow the directions textural contrast.
½-inch crumbles. to meld. Serve. (Salad can be on the package and use the pilaf Both versions can be enjoyed on
refrigerated for up to 4 days; serve method, where the quinoa is first their own as side dishes or vegetar-
1¼ cups quinoa chilled or at room temperature.) rinsed (to wash off the saponin, its ian mains. Or add intrigue with a
1 teaspoon table salt, plus salt natural bitter coating) and then variety of light additions, such as a
for cooking quinoa SPI C ED QU I NOA SALAD cooked with water or stock until all bed of mixed greens, grilled veg-
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil WI TH APR ICOTS, OLI VES, the liquid is absorbed, much as you etables, or a handful of our crispy
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus AN D GOAT CHE ESE would cook rice. But for this reci- chickpeas (page 39).
¼ cup juice (2 lemons) In step 2, reduce salt to ¾ teaspoon pe, we lean into the pasta method,
1 garlic clove, minced and add 1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon pepper and ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¾ cup chopped fresh parsley to oil mixture before adding qui- The Colors of Quinoa
6 scallions, sliced thin noa. In step 3, decrease chopped You can use any color
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, parsley to ½ cup; substitute 1 cup of quinoa in this salad.
crumbled (½ cup) crumbled goat cheese for Parme- Red quinoa is firm and
san; and add ½ cup chopped dried nutty, black quinoa is more
1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in apricots, ½ cup pitted and chopped crunchy than the others,
large saucepan over medium-high Castelvetrano olives, ½ cup and white quinoa is mild
heat. Add quinoa and 1 tablespoon toasted and chopped walnuts, and fluffy.
salt; return to boil; and cook until and ½ cup chopped fresh mint to
quinoa is tender with slight chew, quinoa mixture.

30 CO O K’S COUN TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 is a charred and nutty bottom 1. FOR T HE DRE SS IN G:
layer and a bright-green, crisp, Whisk all ingredients together in
fresh-tasting top layer. small bowl; set aside.
Drizzling the sprouts with a 2. FOR T HE BRUS S ELS
savory-sweet dressing that clings SP RO U TS: Fit food processor
turns them into a salad. Because with slicing disk. Slice brussels
it’s nice to have options, we devel- sprouts, then transfer to large
oped three dressings, each based bowl. Add salt and pepper and toss
on a different sweet and viscous to combine.
element: sweet chili sauce, apricot 3. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in
preserves, and honey. These 12-inch nonstick skillet over
ingredients help to even out any medium-high heat until shim-
lingering bitterness and enhance mering. Add half of sprouts in
the fresh vegetal notes. Each even layer and cook without
dressing also includes an acid and moving them until sprouts are
either salt or a salty component to well browned on bottom and
balance the sweet element. bright green on top, 6 to 8 min-
As a finishing touch, we top utes. Transfer sprouts to serving
the sprouts with toasted nuts for platter, spread into even layer,
crunch. So no matter how you and drizzle with half of dressing.
dress them, these sprouts will Repeat with remaining 3 table-
shine at dinnertime. spoons oil and remaining sprouts,
Chopped
peanuts and fresh layering second batch of cooked
cilantro add crunch and CHARRED SHAVED BRUSSELS sprouts on top of first batch, then
freshness, respectively.
SPROUT SALAD WITH SWEET drizzle with remaining dressing.
CHILI–LIME DRESSING Sprinkle with peanuts and cilan-

Shaved
Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 30 minutes tro. Serve.
You can find sweet chili sauce in

Brussels
most well-stocked supermarkets CHARRED S HAV E D
or in Asian grocery stores. We BRUSSELS S PRO U T SAL A D
prefer to use the slicing disk of WITH APRI COT D R ESS ING

Sprout Salad
a food processor, but you can Substitute 3 tablespoons warmed
also slice the brussels sprouts apricot preserves, 1 tablespoon
by hand: Cut the sprouts in half extra-virgin olive oil, 2 teaspoons
lengthwise, arrange the halves cut white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon
sides down on a cutting board, lemon juice, and ¾ teaspoon table
and then slice crosswise as thin salt for dressing ingredients in
S H AV I N G B R U S S E L S S P R O U T S
preferable to roasting them in as possible. You can substitute step 1. Increase salt to 1 teaspoon in
may sound fussy, but it is ideal the oven, where it was difficult 1½ pounds of preshredded brus- step 2. Substitute ⅓ cup chopped
for a weeknight meal: The to control the cooking. Since we sels sprouts for the 2 pounds of toasted hazelnuts for peanuts and
shaving, which is easy to do in a wanted to cook 2 pounds of brus- whole sprouts called for here. 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon for
food processor, transforms this sels sprouts (to feed four to six cilantro in step 3.
dense vegetable people), we sau- DR ESSI NG
into small pieces Quick-cooking téed them in two ¼ cup sweet chili sauce CHARRED S HAV E D
that cook quickly. batches so that the 1 tablespoon lime juice BRUSSELS S PRO U T SAL A D
And because the and easy to dress skillet wasn’t over- 1 tablespoon fish sauce WITH SH E RRY- HO NEY
shavings are irreg- up, these sprouts crowded. This 3 garlic cloves, minced DR ESSIN G
ularly shaped, technique achieves Substitute ¼ cup honey, 3 table-
they brown belong on your good browning, BRUSS ELS SPROUTS spoons sherry vinegar, 1 tablespoon
unevenly, creating
a multitude of
weeknight table. and because each
batch cooks in
2 pounds brussels sprouts,
trimmed
extra-virgin olive oil, 2 teaspoons
chopped fresh thyme, 1 minced
interesting flavors by Amanda Luchtel just 6 minutes, it’s 3⁄4 teaspoon table salt garlic clove, ¾ teaspoon table salt,
and textures that still fast. Resist ½ teaspoon pepper and ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
you don’t get when cooking whole the urge to stir the sprouts after 6 tablespoons vegetable oil, for dressing ingredients in step 1.
or halved sprouts. spreading them in the pan so divided Increase salt to 1 teaspoon in step
Through our testing, we found that the pieces on the bottom 1⁄3 cup dry-roasted peanuts, 2. Omit cilantro and substitute
that cooking the shaved sprouts caramelize while the pieces on top chopped ⅓ cup toasted slivered almonds for
in a skillet on the stovetop was steam to tenderness. The result ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro peanuts in step 3.

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • CO O K’S COUNT RY 31

 FRUI TY
PE BBLES

Crème
Brûlée
CO RN

BL AC K
S ESA M E

LET’S SET THE SCENE: water surrounding the ramekins ramekins and baking. It may sound were successful or created a thin,
You’re in a dimly lit restaurant, absorbs excess heat, allowing the counterintuitive to prevent a cus- crunchy top that ate like the one
you’ve just finished dinner, and custard to gently and evenly come tard from overcooking by putting crème brûlée is known for. Pat-
the server is bringing over dessert. up to and hold at 180 degrees, the it into the oven when it’s already ting excess moisture from the
They set it down and your eyes fol- temperature at which certain egg hot. But that allows us to bake it tops before sprinkling with sugar
low to a glowing, lacquered crust. proteins begin to coagulate and set. much more gently, in a low oven, ensured that the crust didn’t turn
You lift your spoon and strike One of the so the center out flabby or wet. But the real trick
the top, shattering the surface. A hurdles for home For an easier and the edges was in our double-layered sugar
soft creamy custard speckled with cooks is having to reach the target crust—crème brûlée recipes typi-
vanilla bean seeds peeks out from wrestle with the version of this temperature at cally call for just one layer of sugar.
To make it, sprinkle the tops of
underneath. That is the joy and
drama of a great crème brûlée.
water bath. The
whole ensemble is
restaurant staple, the same time.
Without a water the custards with sugar, tap out any
The building blocks are simple: unwieldy, and the we eliminated bath (or our excess, and then torch it just until
eggs, cream, sugar, salt, and vanilla. fear is that water stovetop cooking the sugar melts (you don’t want
But transforming these ingredi- could splash into the tricky water bath. method), putting color yet). This creates a protective
ents into a stunning dessert is not the custard—or by Faye Yang a cold custard in barrier that prevents the custard
always easy. Traditionally the cus- scald the cook’s a hot oven would from burning and offers an even
tard ingredients for crème brûlée hands. Getting a beautifully cara- result in the edges curdling before surface for the next layer of sugar.
are heated just enough to dissolve melized top can also be difficult. the center cooks through. Sprinkle that second layer on top,
the sugar and temper the eggs. The Our aim was to simplify the process For the crust, you need a kitchen again tapping out the excess, and
custard is then poured into rame- by eliminating the water bath. torch. We tested a handful of reci- torch until evenly caramelized to
kins, which are set in a water bath The solution was to cook the pes that called for work-arounds a beautiful amber. This crackly
and baked (for even cooking and custard to 180 degrees on the such as broiling and pouring hot crust is the perfect crown for the
a perfectly set final product). The stovetop before transferring it to caramels over the top, but none silky-smooth custard beneath.

32 CO O K’S COUNTRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 mixture to yolk mixture until heat, stirring frequently, until just RASPB ER RY C RÈ M E BRÛ L ÉE
Dish Choice thoroughly combined. beginning to smoke, 3 to 4 min- Add 6 halved raspberries to bot-
While shallow fluted dishes are 4. Return mixture to now-empty utes. Transfer to plate to cool, tom of each dish before topping
the traditional vessels for crème saucepan and cook over medium- about 5 minutes. Grind seeds with custard (you may have some
brûlée, you can use 4-ounce low heat, stirring constantly with in spice grinder to form paste. leftover custard).
ramekins (shown below) rubber spatula, until mixture Substitute black sesame paste for
instead. Note that the baking thickens slightly and registers vanilla beans.
time remains the same. 180 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes.
Immediately pour custard through CORN CRÈM E B RÛLÉE
The
fine-mesh strainer into 8-cup Substitute 2 ears of corn, kernels American
liquid measuring cup, pitcher, or cut from cobs and cobs cut in Table
clean large bowl; discard solids. half, for vanilla beans. Increase
Using spoon, skim any bubbles or steeping time to 30 minutes. After THE O RI GI NS OF
foam from top of custard. Pour or liquid has steeped, strain into CRÈ ME B RÛ LÉE
ladle custard evenly among dishes, 8-cup liquid measuring cup before
filling nearly to top of each dish. whisking into yolk mixture. Crème brûlée was brought
C RÈM E B RÛ L ÉE 5. Carefully transfer sheet with to the United States by
Serves 8 Total Time: 2 hours, dishes to oven. Bake until centers FRUITY PEBBLES James Hemings, who
plus 6 hours cooling and chilling of custards register 180 degrees CRÈME BRÛLÉE was enslaved by Thomas
You can substitute one Tahitian (custards will have set up slightly Substitute 2 cups Fruity Pebbles Jefferson and worked as
vanilla bean for the two Madagascar but will remain jiggly throughout), cereal for vanilla beans. Increase his personal assistant
beans, if desired. Vanilla beans give 45 minutes to 1 hour. (If custards heavy cream to 5½ cups. Omit as well as his head chef.
the custard the purest vanilla flavor, do not reach 180 degrees after ⅓ cup sugar and ¼ teaspoon salt Hemings trained as a cook
but 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract, 45 minutes, check every 5 minutes in step 2. Increase steeping time in Paris and was likely the
whisked into the yolks in step 3, until they reach 180 degrees.) to 30 minutes. After liquid has first American to do so.
can be used instead. It is important 6. Transfer dishes to wire rack and steeped, strain into 8-cup liquid He brought myriad French
to bring the custard to 180 degrees let cool completely, about 2 hours. measuring cup, pressing gently cooking techniques and
twice—first on the stovetop and Set dishes on rimmed baking sheet; on solids to extract as much liquid dishes back to America,
again in the oven—to thicken it and cover sheet tightly with plastic as possible. Add ⅓ cup sugar among them ice cream,
achieve a creamy texture without a wrap; and refrigerate until cold, and ¼ teaspoon salt to strained macaroni, and french fries.
water bath. at least 4 hours. (Custards can be mixture and stir until dissolved The dish became a nation-
refrigerated for up to 7 days.) before whisking into yolk mixture. wide phenomenon after it
2 Madagascar vanilla beans, 7. Remove plastic. (If any conden- After torching, top each individual became a “must-have” des-
split lengthwise sation has collected on custards, custard with about 2 teaspoons sert at New York’s Le Cirque
4 cups heavy cream gently dab paper towel on surface crushed Fruity Pebbles cereal, restaurant in the 1980s.
1 cup (7 ounces) sugar, divided to absorb moisture.) Sprinkle each if desired.
¼ teaspoon table salt custard with 1 teaspoon sugar,
10 large egg yolks tilting and tapping dishes to evenly
distribute sugar and dumping out
1. Adjust oven rack to middle any excess sugar. Torch Twice for a Thin, Crisp Crust
position and heat oven to 8. Ignite torch; holding flame
225 degrees. Arrange 8 shallow 4 to 5 inches from surface of
FIRST TORCH SECOND TORCH
4-ounce fluted dishes on rimmed custard, sweep flame over surface
Hold flame 4 to Hold flame close
baking sheet. to melt sugar (sugar should look
5 inches away to dish
2. Using paring knife, split transparent but not caramel-
vanilla beans in half lengthwise ized). Sprinkle each custard with
and scrape seeds from pods. another 1 teaspoon sugar. Reig-
Combine cream, ⅓ cup sugar, nite torch; holding flame close to
salt, and vanilla bean seeds and surface, move flame over custard,
pods in medium saucepan. Bring starting from edges and moving
to simmer over medium heat, into center, to evenly caramelize
stirring occasionally. Cook until sugar. (Caramelized crème brûlée
sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. can be refrigerated for up to
Remove saucepan from heat and 45 minutes.) Serve.
let sit for 15 minutes. 1. Sprinkle each custard with 1 tea- 2. Repeat tilting and tapping with
3. Whisk yolks and ⅓ cup sugar BL ACK S ESA ME spoon sugar, tilting and tapping dish 1 more teaspoon sugar and, holding
in large bowl until pale yellow CR È ME BRÛ LÉ E for even coverage and dumping out flame close to dish, evenly caramel-
in color, about 1 minute. Whisk- Toast ¼ cup black sesame seeds in any excess sugar. Holding flame 4 to ize sugar.
ing gently, slowly add cream 10-inch skillet over medium-low 5 inches away, melt sugar.

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • COOK’S COU NTRY 33

 A little care in placing
the berries goes a long way toward
an elegant presentation. We like
to arrange them in concentric
circles, starting from the
outside and working in.

Chocolate-Raspberry Pie
THERE’S SOMETHING It starts with a simple chocolate with cream (use dark with gelatin. After the pie is
uniquely melodious about the Oreo-cookie crust; the cook- chocolate for more intense flavor, refrigerated until firm, the top
combination of chocolate and ies (filling and all) are ground milk chocolate if you prefer that is decorated with fresh raspber-
raspberries. Chocolate is dark and to crumbs in a creamy sweet- ries, making a pretty jewel-like
mosaic. A Chambord-spiked
bitter, smooth and melty. Raspber-
ries are tangy and bright, all juicy
food processor
with a little sugar
A glorious-yet- ness). On top
of that goes the whipped cream is the ideal
bursts and crunchy seeds. The and bound with simple treat for jammy raspberry accompaniment, its richness
berries bring out fruity under- melted butter. The filling: Frozen mellowing the tangy-bitter-sweet
tones in the chocolate, and the mixture is pressed anyone you’re raspberries (just as edges of the pie.
chocolate smooths out the berries’ (very firmly, to sweet on. flavorful as fresh The result is stunningly gor-
sharpness. It is a combination keep it in place) in cooked applica- geous, every bit as delicious as
greater than the sum of its parts, into a pie plate by Jessica Rudolph tions but more it looks. It’s the perfect love letter
unlocking even more flavor from and baked until affordable) are to your valentine, galentine,
each ingredient. This pie, bracing crisp. Next, a fudgy ganache cooked with sugar until broken or palentine. Better yet, make
and decadent, is a celebration of layer comes together easily in down and syrupy, flavored with it for yourself for the ultimate
those flavors. the microwave by simply melting lemon juice and vanilla, and set expression of self-love.

34 COOK’S COU N TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024

 For neat slices, use a
sharp, thin knife and
gently saw through
the berries before
cutting into the pie.

B IT TE RSW EE T and up sides of pie plate. Using

CH O COL AT E– RAS P B E RRY PI E lightly greased bottom of dry mea-
Serves 8 to 10 suring cup, press and smooth crust
Total Time: 11⁄4 hours, plus into even, compact layer. Bake
41⁄2 hours chilling and cooling until crust is fragrant and appears
Be sure the fresh raspberries are set, about 15 minutes; transfer
dry before arranging them on pie plate to wire rack and let cool
top of the filling in step 6. You completely, about 30 minutes.
can omit the Chambord in the 3. FOR TH E G ANACHE : Once
whipped cream if desired. crust has cooled, microwave cream,
chocolate, and salt in bowl at
CRUST 50 percent power, whisking fre-
16 Oreo cookies, broken into quently, until chocolate is melted,
rough pieces 1 to 3 minutes. Pour ganache
1 tablespoon sugar into cooled crust. Refrigerate,
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, uncovered, until set, 30 minutes to
melted and cooled 1 hour.
4. FOR THE FILL IN G:
GA N AC HE Meanwhile, whisk water and
¾ cup heavy cream gelatin together in bowl and let
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, sit until gelatin softens, at least
chopped 5 minutes (gelatin mixture will
¼ teaspoon table salt become rubbery as it sits; this is 1 minute. Set aside until cooled on medium-low speed until foamy,
OK). Cook frozen raspberries, slightly, about 15 minutes. Transfer about 1 minute. Increase speed
FI LLIN G sugar, and salt in large saucepan filling to crust and refrigerate until to high and whip until soft peaks
2 tablespoons water over medium-high heat, stir- set, about 4 hours. (Pie can be cov- form, 1 to 3 minutes. Serve pie
21⁄2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin ring occasionally, until mixture is ered loosely with plastic wrap and with whipped cream.
11⁄4 pounds (4 cups) frozen boiling, about 8 minutes. Reduce refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
raspberries heat to medium-low and cook, 6. Arrange fresh raspberries in MI LK C H OCOL AT E–
1⁄2 cup (31⁄2 ounces) sugar stirring frequently, until mixture is concentric circles over filling, RASPB E RRY PIE
¼ teaspoon table salt thickened and reduced to 2 cups, rounded sides up, pressing berries Substitute milk chocolate for
2 teaspoons lemon juice 8 to 10 minutes. gently to adhere to filling. bittersweet chocolate and reduce
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 5. Off heat, whisk in lemon 7. FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM: heavy cream for ganache to ⅓ cup.
12 ounces (2½ cups) fresh juice, vanilla, and gelatin mixture Using stand mixer fitted with whisk After pouring ganache into crust,
raspberries until gelatin is dissolved, about attachment, whip all ingredients spread into even layer with spatula.

WH IP P ED C RE A M
1 cup heavy cream, chilled Key Steps
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons Chambord
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch table salt

1. FO R T HE CR UST: Adjust
oven rack to middle position
and heat oven to 325 degrees.
Pulse cookies and sugar in food
processor until coarsely ground,
about 15 pulses, then process to
fine, even crumbs, about 15 sec-
onds. Drizzle melted butter over
crumbs and pulse to incorporate,
about 5 pulses. 1. Press crumb mixture firmly into 2. Cook raspberry filling, stirring fre- 3. Arrange berries on top of finished
2 . Transfer mixture to 9-inch pie pie plate with your hands and then quently, until mixture has thickened pie in concentric circles (starting
plate. Using your hands, press smooth it with greased bottom of dry and reduced to 2 cups. from the outside), pressing berries
crumbs very firmly into bottom measuring cup to avoid slumping. gently to adhere.

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • COOK’S COU N TRY 35

COO K I N G C L ASS

Beer-Brined Better flavor through science.

Roast by Mark Huxsoll

Chicken W O U L D I T S U R P R I S E you
to learn that the secret to deeply
flavorful roast chicken is beer? It
surprised us.
is, and that acidity helps tender-
ize the meat during an overnight
brine. And while acidity can inhibit
browning, that effect is negated by
Let us back up for a moment. sugar—both the sugar in the beer
Over the years, we’ve learned that and the brown sugar we add to
it’s best to treat a chicken with this brine. Patting the brined bird
salt before roasting, whether it dry and rubbing it with oil before
be through a brine (submerging roasting also helps encourage dark,
the bird in a salt solution) or a flavorful browning. The resulting
“dry brine,” which entails rubbing roasted chicken emerges from the
the chicken with salt (and other oven with beautiful mahogany skin.
seasonings). The salt seasons A beer brine also has flavor
the meat and also chemically advantages: Many flavor molecules
helps it retain moisture during aren’t soluble in water but are
the cooking process. soluble in alcohol or oil, so the
Through our testing, we found alcohol in the brine can unlock
that brining a chicken in beer flavors in ingredients such as the
instead of water has some distinct lemon, thyme, coriander, pepper,
advantages that have scientific and bay leaves we use here. The
backing. While you don’t neces- salt in the brine helps carry these
sarily think of beer as acidic, it flavors into the meat.

BEER-BRINED ROAST CHICKEN dissolved, about 1 minute. Add

Serves 4 Total Time: 13⁄4 hours, onion, garlic, coriander seeds, pep-
plus 121⁄2 hours brining and resting percorns, bay leaves, thyme sprigs,
We developed this recipe pri- and lemon zest. Place chicken,
marily with Budweiser, for its breast side down, on cutting board.
simple lager flavor. We tested with Using kitchen shears, cut through
other styles of beer and found bones on either side of backbone;
that they each contributed subtle discard backbone. Flip chicken
nuances; feel free to use the beer breast side up and press on breast-
style of your choice. Note that bone to flatten. Submerge chicken,
nonalcoholic beer will result in a breast side down, in brine; cover;
less flavorful chicken but will still and refrigerate for at least 12 hours
yield great results. or up to 48 hours.
2. Adjust oven rack to
3 cups lager, such as Budweiser upper-middle position and heat
¼ cup table salt oven to 425 degrees. Set wire
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar rack in rimmed baking sheet.
1 onion, peeled and quartered Transfer chicken, breast side up,
4 garlic cloves, peeled and to prepared rack. Pat chicken
smashed dry, tuck wingtips behind back,
1 tablespoon coriander seeds and remove any spices with paper
1 tablespoon peppercorns towels. Brush skin evenly with oil.
8 bay leaves Roast chicken until well browned
8 sprigs fresh thyme and breasts register 160 degrees
4 (3-inch) strips lemon zest and thighs register 175 degrees,
1 (4-pound) whole chicken, giblets 50 minutes to 1 hour.
discarded 3. Transfer chicken, breast side
1 tablespoon vegetable oil up, to carving board and let rest,
uncovered, for 30 minutes. Carve
1. Whisk beer, salt, and sugar in and serve.
large bowl until salt and sugar have
 COO KI N G C L ASS

How to Make Beer-Brined Roast Chicken

1. Make Brine Whisk beer, salt, and 2. Remove Backbone Place chicken, 3. Flatten Flip chicken breast 4. Brine Submerge chicken, breast
sugar until salt and sugar have dis- breast side down, on cutting board. side up and press on breastbone side down, in brine; cover; and refrig-
solved. Add onion, garlic, coriander Using kitchen shears, cut through to flatten. erate for at least 12 hours or up to
seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves, bones on either side of backbone; Why? Pressing down on the breast- 48 hours.
thyme sprigs, and lemon zest. discard backbone. bone makes the chicken flatter, Why? Brining allows the beer time
Why? Many flavor molecules that Why? Removing the backbone which means it will cook more evenly. to unlock flavors and the salt time to
aren’t soluble in water are soluble in allows the chicken to open up and Removing the backbone and flatten- carry those flavors into the chicken.
alcohol, so using alcohol in the brine creates a meat side and a bone side, ing is known as spatchcocking. The acidity in the beer also helps
can unlock these flavors. Salt helps which helps with even cooking. tenderize the meat.
carry the flavors into the meat.

5. Dry Pat chicken dry and remove 6. Oil Brush skin evenly with oil. 7. Roast Roast chicken at 425 de- 8. Let Rest Transfer chicken to
any spices with paper towels. Tuck Why? Brushing the skin with oil grees on upper-middle rack until well carving board and let rest, uncovered,
wingtips behind back. encourages browning. browned and meat is cooked through. for 30 minutes. Carve and serve.
Why? Patting the skin dry helps Why? Roasting a spatchcocked Why? Heat makes muscle fibers
remove excess moisture, which chicken at a high temperature on a contract and squeeze out the juices,
makes browning more efficient. high rack employs the heat reflected so if the chicken were cut right
Tucking the wingtips helps prevent off the oven ceiling, which allows for away, the juices would leak out.
them from burning. nice browning of the chicken’s skin Letting the chicken cool allows the
without overcooking the meat. fibers to relax so that they hold on
to more juices.
Which Beer Should You Use?
We tested several types of beer in this recipe;
here are four of our favorites.

A ME RI CAN LAGER I PA
The classic “king of beers” provided Hoppy IPAs imparted floral and tropi-
mild but balanced flavor to the cal notes that were accented by the
chicken in this recipe. coriander and lemon we added.

ENGLI SH B ROWN ALE I RI SH STOU T

Newcastle, a robustly flavored ale, Guinness’s iron-like minerality and

permeated the chicken with notes of balanced bitterness complemented
A M ER I CA N E NG L IS H I RI SH cooked honey and black tea. the deeply roasted chicken skin.
I PA
L AGER BROW N A L E STOUT

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • COO K’S COU NTRY 37

 CO O K IN G FOR T WO

Scallops with Orzo Risotto

Pasta stands in for rice in this delicious take on classic risotto.
by Lawman Johnson

RISOTTO IS SO creamy and minced shallot and garlic to build SE ARED SCALLOPS and cook until fragrant, about
satisfying that many spin-offs of it an aromatic base. Then toast the WITH ART IC HOKE O RZO 30 seconds. Stir in orzo and cook
have been created using grains and orzo in the infused butter to bring RI SOTTO FOR TWO for 1 minute. Stir in broth, arti-
pasta instead of the classic arborio out its flavorful nutty notes. Add Total Time: 45 minutes chokes, and ¼ teaspoon salt and
rice. One such variation uses orzo, broth and chopped artichoke We recommend buying “dry” bring to simmer. Reduce heat to
a short pasta shaped similarly to hearts, and simmer the pasta, stir- scallops, which don’t have chemi- medium-low and simmer gently,
rice grains. Using the right method ring frequently, until it is tender cal additives and taste better than stirring often, until orzo is tender
to cook the pasta results in a dish and has released its starches, “wet.” Dry scallops will look and broth is mostly absorbed,
that has the silky consistency of which help make the dish creamy. ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are 16 to 18 minutes. Off heat, vigor-
classic risotto. Finish the orzo risotto by stirring bright white. ously stir in Parmesan, lemon
Dressing up the risotto with in Parmesan cheese and butter for zest and juice, and remaining
artichokes and serving it with even more creaminess and lemon 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1 tablespoon butter until remain-
pan-seared sea scallops transforms zest and juice for brightness, and divided ing liquid is creamy. Season with
it into an elegant dinner that is let it sit to thicken. Just before 1 shallot, minced salt and pepper to taste. Let sit
quick and easy to prepare. serving, stir in chopped parsley for 2 garlic cloves, minced until slightly thickened, about
To make the orzo risotto, melt color and freshness. ½ cup orzo 5 minutes.
butter in a saucepan and add The quick-cooking scallops 2¼ cups chicken or vegetable broth, 2. Pat scallops dry with paper
can be made while the risotto plus extra as needed towels and sprinkle with
thickens. Pat them dry with paper 4 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt.
Drying the Scallops towels to remove any moisture that thawed, patted dry, and chopped Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet
would keep them from browning ½ teaspoon table salt, divided over high heat until just smok-
quickly when seared. Then season 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated ing. Add scallops in single layer
them with salt and sear them in (½ cup), plus extra for serving and cook without moving them
oil over high heat for 2 minutes 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus until well browned on first side,
per side, just long enough for a 1 tablespoon juice about 2 minutes. Flip scallops and
beautiful brown, caramelized crust 12 ounces large sea scallops, continue to cook without mov-
to develop while leaving the scal- tendons removed ing them until well browned on
lops with tender, perfectly cooked 1 tablespoon vegetable oil second side, about 2 minutes.
opaque centers. 2 teaspoons chopped fresh 3. Stir parsley into orzo;
Serve the creamy artichoke parsley adjust consistency with extra
orzo risotto in individual bowls, broth as needed. Transfer orzo to
arranging the scallops on top, 1. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in individual serving bowls, top with
Pat the scallops dry to ensure that and relax and enjoy this easy yet medium saucepan over medium scallops, and serve with
they brown before they overcook. sophisticated dinner for two. heat. Add shallot and garlic extra Parmesan.

38 CO O K’S COUN T RY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 HOW TO MAK E

Crispy
Fried Chickpeas
GARLI C- PARS LEY
C RISPY C HI CK PE AS
Serves 4 Total Time: 35 minutes
Do not rinse the chickpeas after
draining them, and be sure to dry
them as thoroughly as possible
before frying.

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas,

drained
2 cups vegetable oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon table salt

1. Spread chickpeas into even

layer over clean dish towel. Cover
chickpeas with second clean dish
towel, then press and gently roll
chickpeas between towels to remove
as much moisture as possible.
Transfer chickpeas to large sauce-
F RIED CHICKPEAS MAKE a heat to medium-high and cook the at a Super Bowl party, snack on pan (no need to discard any loos-
superb snack. They’re crunchy chickpeas until crispy and golden them while you curl up with a good ened or separated skins). Add oil
and satisfying, and you can season brown. Starting the chickpeas in book, swap them in for popcorn and cook over medium-high heat,
them any way you want. While cold oil ensures that they all cook on movie night, or pack them up stirring occasionally, until chickpeas
there are ways to make chickpeas evenly and are crunchy through- for sustenance on a road trip. You are deep golden brown and crispy,
crunchy by baking or sautéing out, as the oil heats the chickpeas can also add them to salads, such as 27 to 32 minutes, adjusting heat as
them, these versions don’t get through slowly instead of just crisp- our Quinoa Salad with Herbs and needed to maintain oil temperature
quite as crispy ing the outsides Parmesan (page 30), or other dishes between 325 and 350 degrees.
as fried versions. If you like salty before reaching the where you want a little texture or 2. Using spider skimmer or slotted
For the ultimate insides. Transfer added protein, such as on top of spoon and allowing excess oil
crunch, don’t snacks, these the cooked chick- hummus or steamed rice. to drain back into saucepan,
be afraid to fry crunchy, customiz- peas straight to a transfer chickpeas to large bowl.
these little beans; large bowl instead Add parsley, garlic, and salt and
it’s easier than able chickpeas of draining them A Cold Start toss until evenly combined.
you think. on paper towels, as Transfer to serving bowl. Serve.
Start with
might become is called for with (Chickpeas can be stored in airtight
pantry-friendly your new favorite. most fried foods; container for up to 2 days.)
canned chickpeas— the oil left clinging
by Mark Huxsoll
two cans make to the chickpeas CHI POTL E- LI ME
enough for a small group. Simply will help the seasonings adhere. C RISPY C HI CK PE AS
drain and dry them, but don’t Customizing the flavorings Substitute cilantro for parsley. Omit
rinse them because this loosens is the fun part. First, they need garlic. Add 1½ teaspoons grated
their skins. Drying the chickpeas salt, but after that the sky’s the lime zest, ¾ teaspoon chipotle chile
well with paper towels helps avoid limit. We developed a few different powder, and ½ teaspoon sugar along
splatter and speeds up the crisping seasoning combinations: minced with cilantro and salt in step 2.
because it removes moisture. raw garlic and fresh parsley; spicy
Then, instead of pulling out chipotle chile powder, lime zest, LEMON- P EPPE R
a big Dutch oven and fretting and fresh cilantro; and lemon zest C RISPY C HI CK PE AS
over dropping the chickpeas into and black pepper. Start with these Omit parsley and garlic. Add
bubbling-hot oil, transfer the chick- three seasoning ideas, but don’t be Starting the chickpeas in room- 1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
peas to a saucepan and cover them afraid to branch out and make these temperature oil takes the fear out and ½ teaspoon pepper along with
with just 2 cups of oil. Turn the chickpeas your own. Serve them of frying. salt in step 2.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • COO K’S COU N TRY 39

 O N E PA N

Chorizo
with Sweet
Potatoes and
Black Beans
Fresh links of Mexican chorizo star in this
comforting one-pot meal. by Kelly Song

ONE-PAN FRESH CHORIZO WITH SWEET POTATOES

AND BLACK BEANS
Serves 4 Total Time: 50 minutes
Use the greater amount of chipotle chile for a spicier dish.

The cooling crema

½ cup Mexican crema 5 minutes; transfer to plate. Add
dolloped over the top
is fortified with lime 2 teaspoons grated lime zest onion, poblanos, and ¼ teaspoon
zest and juice. plus 1 tablespoon juice salt to fat left in pot and cook until
2¼ teaspoons table salt, divided softened and lightly browned, 5 to
2 tablespoons vegetable oil 7 minutes. Stir in chipotle, garlic,
FEW THINGS BRING more chipotle chile in the remaining 1½ pounds Mexican-style chorizo and cumin and cook until fragrant,
comfort to the table than a fat to create a rich, smoky base sausage about 30 seconds. Stir in sweet
bowl of warm, deeply seasoned for the stew. Next, add diced 1 onion, chopped potatoes, broth, and remaining
stewy beans. This dish ups the sweet potatoes and broth; as the 2 poblano chiles, stemmed, 1¾ teaspoons salt, scraping up any
satisfaction quotient by adding mixture simmers, the sweet pota- seeded, and cut into 1-inch browned bits, and bring to simmer.
chorizo and sweet potatoes to toes absorb the porky flavors and pieces Cover; reduce heat to medium-
black beans for a simple, warming cook to tenderness. Then, stir in 1–2 tablespoons minced canned low; and simmer until potatoes are
one-pot dinner. drained canned black beans and chipotle chile in adobo sauce tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
We wanted to celebrate the full- return the seared sausages to the 3 garlic cloves, minced 3. Stir in beans and nestle chorizo
flavored appeal of fresh Mexican pot for a final simmer. 1 teaspoon ground cumin and any accumulated juices into
chorizo, a pork sausage seasoned Once the sausages are fully 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled pot. Cover and simmer until
with vinegar, chiles, and a variety cooked, remove them and and cut into ½-inch pieces chorizo registers 160 degrees, 5 to
of spices, in this recipe. Since the thoroughly stir the vegetables 1½ cups chicken broth 7 minutes, flipping each link half-
sausage is a staple in Mexican cui- to thicken the broth slightly 2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, way through cooking; transfer links
sine, we drew inspiration from that with the starches from the sweet rinsed to plate as they finish cooking.
country’s pantry for a harmonious potatoes and beans. To serve, ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves 4. Simmer bean mixture, stir-
combination of flavors. ladle the silky vegetable mixture ring constantly, until slightly
To make the dish, start by into bowls. Slice the links and 1. Combine crema, lime zest and thickened, about 1 minute. Slice
searing the chorizo links in a top the bowls with the slices plus juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt in small chorizo on bias, about 1 inch
pot to add flavorful brown- homemade lime crema and cilan- bowl; set aside. thick. Divide bean mixture
ing and render some of the fat. tro leaves. This comforting and 2. Heat oil in Dutch oven among serving bowls and top
Then, remove the sausages and rib-sticking dish comes together over medium heat until shim- with sliced chorizo. Dollop with
cook a mixture of poblano pep- in no time, and once served, will mering. Add chorizo and cook crema mixture and sprinkle with
pers, onion, garlic, cumin, and be devoured just as quickly. until browned on 2 sides, about cilantro. Serve.

40 COO K’S COUN TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 INSTA NT P OT

A crunchy slaw,
made tangy with
cider vinegar and
green apple,
helps balance the
richness of the
saucy meat.

Barbecue IN STAN T P OT BAR BECUE 2. FOR T HE CH IC KEN:

Pulled Chicken
PULLED CH IC KEN SAN DWI CH ES Combine ketchup, sugar, vinegar,
Serves 6 Total Time: 1 hour Worcestershire, mustard, and hot
To make sliders, substitute eight sauce in small bowl; set aside.

Sandwiches
to 12 slider buns for the ham- 3. Using highest sauté function,
burger buns. heat oil in Instant Pot until shim-
mering. Add onion and cook,
S L AW stirring occasionally, until onion
1½ tablespoons cider vinegar is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in
1 tablespoon mayonnaise granulated garlic, chili powder, salt,
N O T H I N G S AY S S U M M E R Stir in the chicken and cook 1 teaspoon packed brown sugar and cayenne. Cook until fragrant,
quite like barbecue, but when it under high pressure for just 1 teaspoon table salt about 30 seconds. Add ½ cup
it’s not summer, why wait? This 6 minutes; it will be infused with 2 cups shredded green cabbage ketchup mixture and chicken, stir
tender, tangy pulled chicken all the flavors from the sauce and 1 Granny Smith apple, cored and until chicken is evenly coated with
can be made year-round in an spices. Remove and reserve ½ cup cut into thin matchsticks ketchup mixture and onion, and
Instant Pot in just 1 hour. of the cooking liquid. Since the 1 shallot, halved and sliced thin arrange chicken in even layer.
Start by nailing down the main chicken is so meltingly tender, 4. Lock lid into place and close
components. For the chicken, all it takes is a few passes with a CHI CK E N pressure-release valve. Select high
boneless thighs provide a rich potato masher to turn it into juicy ¾ cup ketchup pressure-cook function and cook
flavor and juicy texture without shreds. Since there’s liquid in the 2 tablespoons packed brown for 6 minutes. Turn off Instant Pot
the added work pot at the end of sugar and quick-release pressure. Care-
of picking the cooking, use the 1½ tablespoons cider vinegar fully remove lid, allowing steam
cooked meat Who says great sauté function to 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce to escape away from you. Remove
from the bones. pulled chicken cook it off and 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard ½ cup cooking liquid; reserve
For the barbe- brown the exteri- 2 teaspoons hot sauce ¼ cup and discard remainder.
cue sauce, start can’t be or of the chicken; 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Using potato masher, mash chicken
by whisking the fond (flavorful ½ cup finely chopped onion in pot into bite-size pieces.
together a few
cooked quickly? caramelized bits) 2 teaspoons granulated garlic 5. Using highest sauté function,
staple ingredi- by Lawman Johnson that develops is 2 teaspoons chili powder bring chicken and cooking
ents: ketchup, reminiscent of the ¾ teaspoon table salt liquid remaining in pot to
brown sugar, cider vinegar, bark on slow-cooked barbecue. ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper simmer. Cook, stirring occasion-
Worcestershire sauce, Dijon Just before serving, stir in ¼ cup 2 pounds boneless, skinless ally and scraping bottom of pot,
mustard, and hot sauce. Then, of reserved cooking liquid to give chicken thighs, trimmed until liquid evaporates and some
using the Instant Pot’s sauté func- the chicken some sauciness, and 6 brioche hamburger buns, fond develops on bottom of pot,
tion, cook finely chopped onion add the reserved barbecue sauce for toasted if desired 6 to 8 minutes. Off heat, stir
until softened and sweet, and add fresh hits of acidity and brightness. in reserved cooking liquid and
granulated garlic, chili powder, To complement the saucy shred- 1. FOR THE SLAW: Whisk vine- ¼ cup ketchup mixture.
salt, and cayenne to boost the ded chicken, whip up a crunchy, gar, mayonnaise, sugar, and salt in 6. Divide chicken evenly over
flavor. Add ½ cup of the ketchup bright apple-cabbage slaw. Pile the large bowl until sugar is dissolved. bun bottoms. Spoon remaining
mixture to the pot with the onion chicken and slaw on toasted buns, Add cabbage, apple, and shallot ketchup mixture over chicken.
and spices, reserving the rest of take a bite, and let your taste buds and toss until evenly combined; Divide slaw among sandwiches
the mixture to add later. carry you away to summertime. set aside. and top with bun tops. Serve.

F E B RUA RY/ M A R C H 2024 • CO O K’S COU NT RY 41

 ATK R EVI EWS

The Best Rolling Pins

What do many pies, tarts, tortillas, and flatbreads have in common?
They’re all made with this simple kitchen tool. by Carolyn Grillo
WE TESTED ROLLING pins
in three styles—handled pins,
dowels, and tapered pins (also
called French rolling pins)—made
from a variety of materials. After
rolling out dozens of pie doughs,
pizza doughs, and cookie doughs,
we found several options that
rolled over their competition.
We didn’t like any of the
handled pins. It’s easier to assess
a dough’s thickness and how hard
to press when using a dowel or
tapered pin. Between those styles,
each has benefits and the choice is
a personal one. With dowels, the
weight is distributed evenly across
the pin. Their size and heft make
them ideal for rolling out wide,
long doughs such as croissants
See the full testing results at
and slab pies. Tapered pins are
AmericasTestKitchen.com/mar24.
lighter and thinner and offer finer
control—but using a pin that isn’t
completely flat can initially be
challenging. For both styles, there
are some important things to look WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHAT TO AVOID
for and to avoid when shopping.
WOO D PI N S: Rolling pins made MAR BL E, PL AST IC, OR DRAMATICA L LY TA PE R ED
from wood were efficient as well as STAI NLESS-STE E L PI N S : ROL LING PINS : The usable
easy to use. Wood’s slightly rough We found flaws in pins made flat space on the tapered pins
OUR TOP PICKS
surface held a fine dusting of flour, from each of these materials. varied from 5.2 to 9.5 inches. It
B EST D OWE L making these pins virtually nonstick. The marble was easy to
Plus, textured wood gripped the pin we make unwant-
M AR B LE, PL AST I C, OR
dough well, causing the dough to be tested was ed indents
STAI NLESS STEE L
responsive to our movements. by far the while using
JK Adams Plain Rolling Dowel Pin heaviest in the pins with
Model: PRP-2 Price: $22.00 MO D E RATE WE IGH T: Our favor- our lineup the shortest
Weight: 1.4 lb Flat Surface: 19 in
Comments: This pin gave us plenty of
ite rolling pins weighed about 1 to and felt amount of flat
space to roll out doughs of all sizes. Plus, 1½ pounds, making them heavy cumber- space, and we
it was heavy enough to help us as we enough to assist us while rolling some. The WO OD had to work
rolled but not so heavy that it crushed but not so heavy as to make them stainless- a little harder
the dough underneath.
uncomfortable while using or to steel pin to achieve
crush the dough underneath. we tested warmed under our an evenly flat dough.
BEST TAPE RE D hands during use, which can
LO NG BA RR E LS : Rolling pins with warm up the dough as well ROL LING PINS W I TH
shorter barrels left unwanted indents and result in tough, dense pas- HAN DL ES : It is more difficult
JK Adams French Rolling Pin where their edges pressed into the tries. Marble, stainless-steel, to assess a dough’s thickness
Model: FRP-1 Price: $19.99 dough. These pins also required more and plastic models were also and how hard we’re pressing
Weight: 15.9 oz Flat Surface: 9.5 in
passes over the dough. This can over- too smooth to hold a dusting when using a handled pin than
Comments: Of all the tapered rolling pins
we tested, this had the most usable flat work the dough, causing it to turn out of flour and stuck to pie dough it is when using a dowel or
surface area, so it was easier to form tough, rather than light and flaky. as a result. tapered pin.
dough into rounds.

42 COOK’S COU N TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

 ATK R EVIEWS

All About Honey

We tasted a broad array of honey from all over the world and found that
the best honey offers far more than just sweetness. by Carolyn Grillo

B LEN D ED H O NEY MO NO FLO RAL H ON EY C R EAME D HON EY

HONEY HAS BEEN used as honeybees eat nectar from the Creamed Honey
food and medicine around the same primary floral source. Bee- Most honey is liquid, but three What’s the best way to
world for more than 8,000 years. keepers can’t control bees’ flight of the honeys in our lineup store honey?
Like wine, olive oil, and oysters, patterns, but they can introduce were creamed honeys with a Store honey in an airtight
honey’s flavor and aroma are them to environments when a thick, sticky consistency similar plastic or glass container at
impacted by its terroir. You get specific flower is in bloom. In the to lemon curd. They’re made room temperature (at or above
very different results based on United States, there are more by adding already-crystallized 65 degrees). Honey crystal-
where the honeybees live, what than 300 unique types of mono- honey to liquid honey, whipping lizes quickest at temperatures
they eat, and how the honey is floral honey from different floral liquid honey, or using honey that between 45 and 65 degrees, so
processed. Honey always offers sources, according to the National is prone to crystallization. Our don’t refrigerate honey. You can
sweetness, but it can also taste Honey Board, and there are many tasters loved this “incredibly lush freeze honey, but let it defrost
floral, bitter, or acidic, and even more around the world. and luxurious honey.” at room temperature for
have notes of menthol or tobacco. The monofloral honeys in our Creamed honey melts quickly 24 hours before using it.
We wanted to learn about the lineup came from nine different in tea but we prefer to showcase
wide variety of honeys, so we floral sources: acacia, blackberry, its ultra-
purchased 15 jars from produc- buckwheat, chestnut, linden, smooth, What should I do if my
ers around the world in three mānuka, meadowfoam, orange luxurious honey crystallizes?
categories: blended, monofloral, blossom, and tupelo. They texture. There’s no reason to throw
and creamed. were a revelation, with com- Serve with out crystallized honey—it isn’t
plex flavor profiles determined cheese and spoiled. Simply set the jar in
Blended Honey by the flowers the bees visited. crackers or warm water until the honey
Blended honeys are what you’re The acacia honey had “strong slather it liquefies. Because evaporation
most likely to find at supermarkets. sweetness” with “floral” notes, on thick, leads to crystallization, make
They’re what they sound like: specifically “vanilla,” “jasmine,” buttered sure the jar is tightly sealed.
blends of honeys from multiple and “honeysuckle.” When sam- toast and
sources. By combining honey pling tupelo honey, tasters picked sprinkle
from hives across the country or up on “lovely floral flavor” and Maldon salt over the top. Does honey go bad?
even around the world, companies “lots of notes of fresh plants” When stored at room tem-
ensure consistent flavor from year and “pollen,” and described it as Choosing a Honey perature in an airtight container,
to year. It’s common to see blends “slightly musky like wet wood or Sweet, mild honeys are perfect for honey does not spoil. However,
of wildflower or clover honey. moss.” Buckwheat honey took everyday use. But if you can find a over time honey can lose some
Sampled plain, the blended hon- many people by surprise with its monofloral or creamed honey at a of its flavor and aroma nuances
eys tasted “classic” and “familiar” dark color, “barnyard funk,” and store or farmers’ market, we hope as well as darken in color. If
with “sweet,” “fruity,” and “floral” “roasty,” “earthy” notes. you’ll give it a try. We loved their your honey becomes contami-
notes. Some had a bit more nuance Their complexity makes them unique aromas and flavors, and we nated with water, the honey can
but none surprised our tasters. ideal for a variety of uses: pairing think you will too. ferment. If you see mold or if
with a cheese plate, mixing into your honey smells fermented or
Monofloral Honey homemade pasta filling, or driz- See the full tasting results at cheesy, toss it.
Monofloral honey is made when zling over grilled meat. AmericasTestKitchen.com/mar24.

F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 43

 BONUS RECIPE

Warm
Marinated
Olives
A simple snack for your next gathering.
by Amanda Luchtel

WARM MARIN AT ED OLIV ES 1. Using vegetable peeler, remove

Serves 6 to 8 four 2-inch strips of zest from
Total Time: 25 minutes orange. Slice each strip thin
To crush the coriander seeds, lengthwise. Heat oil and zest in
place them in a zipper-lock bag 12-inch skillet over medium heat
and press or gently pound with a until zest is fragrant and begins to
skillet, rolling pin, or meat mallet. curl, about 3 minutes. Add olives,
For spicier olives, use the full herbes de Provence, coriander
½ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. seeds, and pepper flakes and cook
until spices are toasted and olives
1 orange are sizzling, about 5 minutes.
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2. Stir in garlic and cook until
2 cups pitted brine-cured fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off
green olives heat, stir in vinegar. Let olive
2 cups pitted brine-cured mixture sit in skillet until cooled
black olives slightly, about 5 minutes. Serve
1 tablespoon herbes de Provence (directly from skillet or in large
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, shallow serving bowl) with crusty
crushed bread. (Marinated olives can be
¼–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes refrigerated for up to 4 days. Let
6 garlic cloves, minced sit at room temperature for about
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 10 minutes before serving or reheat
Crusty bread in 12-inch skillet over medium heat
until warm, about 3 minutes.)

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4 4 COO K’S COUN TRY • F E B RUA RY/ M A RC H 2024

PORTRAIT
BY STEVE KLISE

WALLY WROBLEWSKI
prepares brandy old-fashioneds at the Five O’Clock Steakhouse,
a supper club in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

Read our collection of On the Road articles at CooksCountry.com/ontheroad

 INSIDE THIS ISSUE

35 Bittersweet Chocolate– 28 Reverse-Seared Strip Steaks 24 White Bean and Sun-Dried 22 Quick Beef Stew with 29 Mustard-Roasted Potatoes
Raspberry Pie with Cowboy Butter Tomato Burgers Mushrooms and Dijon

11 Boudin Balls 13 Rillons 17 Smoky Chicken, Sausage, and 9 King Cake 20 Big-Batch Sazeracs
Shrimp Gumbo

31 Shaved Brussels Sprout Salad 27 Fried Cheese Curds with Ranch 30 Quinoa Salad with Apricots, 24 Pork Tacos with Orange Salsa 22 Pesto Potato Frittata with Peas
with Sweet Chili–Lime Dressing Dressing Olives, and Goat Cheese and Goat Cheese

39 Garlic-Parsley Crispy Chickpeas 41 Instant Pot Barbecue Pulled 36 Beer-Brined Roast Chicken 40 One-Pan Fresh Chorizo with 38 Seared Scallops with Artichoke
Chicken Sandwiches Sweet Potatoes and Black Beans Orzo Risotto for Two

44 Warm Marinated Olives 22 Honey-Roasted Chicken Drum- 33 Crème Brûlée 22 Tuna, Fennel, and Radish Salad 24 Pork Chops with Spicy
sticks with Carrots Toasts Tomato-Braised Escarole