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com

SERVICE MANUAL

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SEWING MACHINE MODEl.

385. 17126690/Iq _
NOVEMBER, 1996
SERVICE ACCESS AND ADJUSTMENT
IS THE SAME AS MODEL 385. 17822490
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

SERVICE MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE MODEL

385. 17822490
JULY, 1994
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

CONTENTS

LOCATE AND IDENTIFYTHEPARTS........................................................................ I

WHAT TO DO WHEN................................................................................................ 2-4

THREADING OF MACHINE .................................................................................... 5

SERVICEACCESS
FACE COVER .............................................................
6
TOP COVER ...............................................................
6
BOI"I'OMBASE PLATE ........................................................
7
BED COVER ...............................................................
7
BELTCOVER ..............................................................
8
FRONT COVER .............................................................
9
REAR PANEL UNIT...........................................................
I0

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION ..............................................................
11
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT .........................................
12
NEEDLE SWING ............................................................
13
STRAIGHT STITCHING .......................................................
14.15
DISTRIBUTIONOF NEEDLE SWING ..............................................
16,17
STRETCH STTTCHBALANCE ...................................................
18.19
FEEDDOG H_.-_-IT
...........................................................
20,21
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ........................................................
22.23
NEEDLE TO SHUTTLETIMING ..................................................
24,25
NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE..............................................
26
BACKLASH (LOWER SHAFT GEAR) .............................................
27
BuIrONHOLE STITCHBALANCE ...............................................
28,29
NEEDLE POSITION...................
i.................................................
30,31
ZERO FEEDING ............................................................
32,33
MOTOR BELTTENSION ......................................................
34

OIUNG .............................................................................................................. 35

WIRING OF TERMINALBLOCK .............................................................................. 36

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ............................................................

37

VI.0
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS

Thread Spool Pin

Upper Thread Guide Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Width Control

Stitch Length Control

Stitch Width Setting Window

TOp Thread Tension Control
Sfftch Length Setting Window

Face Cover plate

Stitch Selector •

Thread Cutlet

Needle Plate Speed Range Switch

Hook Cover Plat_

Reverse Stitch Control

Hook Cover Plate Release Button Extension table (Accessory storage box)

Carrying Handle

Push-Pull Clutch

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Drop Feed Lever

Light and Power Switch

Plug Connector
Nomenclafure Plate

Presser Foot Needle Clamp

Snap-on Butt_

Presser FOOt
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

WHAT TO DO WHEN

CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE

1. SKIPPING 1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT

THENEEDU_PROPERLY.
STITCHES PROPERLY.

2. NEEDLE IS BENTOR WORN. CHANGE THE NEEDLE.

3. INCORRECTLY THREADED. RETHREAD.

4. NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE USETHE RECOMMENDED

INAPPROPRIATE FOR SEWINGNEEDLEAND THREAD.
FABRIC BEING SEWN.

5. SEWING ON STRETCH USEA#t I BLUETIP NEEDLE,

FABRIC.

6. PRESSERFOOT PRESSURE ADJUST THE PRESSERBAR

ISTOO WEAK. LEVEL TO MAKE THE
PRESSURESTRONGER.

7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL P,22, 23

BAR HEIGHT. ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT'.

8. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE SEEMECHANICAL P.24,25

TO SHU1TLETIMING. ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE TO SHUTTLETIMING".

9. INAPPROPR_TE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL P.26

TO SHUI"[LECLEARANCE. ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE."

2. FABRIC NOT 1. PRESSERFOOT PRESSURE ADJUST THE PRESSERBAR

MOVING ISTOO WEAK. LEVEL TO MAKE THE
PRESSURE STRONGER.

2. INCORRECT F.D. HEIGHT. SEEMECHANICAL P.20, 21

ADJUSTMENT "FEED DOG
HEIGHT."

3. F.D. IS IN DOWN POSITION. RAISE THE F.D. LEVEL.

4. THREAD ON BOIrOM SIDE MAKE SURE TO BRING

OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP. BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN,
THREAD UNDER THE FOOT
WHEN STARTING SEWING.

5. FEED DOG TEETHARE CHANGE THE FEEDDOG.

WORN.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE

3. BREAKING 1. tNmAL SEWING SPEEDIS STARTWITH MEDIUM SPEED.

UPPER TOO FAST.
THREAD
2. THREAD PATH IS USETHE PROPERTHREAD
INCORRECT, PATH.

3. NEEDLE ISBENT OR DULL. REPLACEWITHA NEW NEEDLE.

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4. UPPERTHREAD TENSION IS ADJUST UPPERTHREAD
TOO STRONG. TENSION CORRECTLY.

5. NEEDLESIZEIS USEAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE

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INAPPROPRIATE FOR FOR FABRIC AND THREAD
FABRIC. AND THREAD IN USE.

6. NEEDLEEYE ISWORN. CHANGE THE NEEDLE.

7. NEEDLEHOLE IN NEEDLE REPAIRTHE HOLE OR

PLA11_
ISWORN OR BURRED. REPLACETHE NEEDLE PLATE.
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4. BREAKING 1. INCORRECTLY THREADED THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY.
BOBBIN BOBBIN.
THREAD
: 2. TOO MUCH THREAD IS ADJUST THEPOSITION OF
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AROUND ON THE BOBBIN. STOPPER.

3. UNT IS STUCK INSIDE THE CLEAN THE SHU1-rLE.

BOBBIN HOLDER.

4. THREAD QUALITY IS CHANGE TO A HIGH QUALITY

TOO LOW. SEWING THREAD.
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5. THREAD IS JAMMING CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING

AROUND THE BOBBIN. THREAD.
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5. NEEDLE 1. NEEDLE ISHITYtNG THE SEE MECHANICAL P.30,31

BREAKS NEEDLEPLATE, ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
POSITION."

2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. CHANGE THENEEDLE.

3. NEEDLE IS HrF[ING THE SEE MECHANICAL P.26

SHUTTLE. ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE."

4. THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE SEEMECHANICAL P.13

THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
IT, OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS SWING."
WHILE IN FABRIC.

5. FABRIC ISBEING PULLED TOO GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY

STRONGLY WHILE SEWING. WHILE SEWING.

3
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE

6. NOISY 1, BACKLASH BETWEEN SEE MECHANICAL P.27

OPERATION SHUTTLEHOOK GEAR AND ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH
LOWERSHAFTGEAR ISTOO (LOWER SHAFT GEAR),"
GREAT.

2. LOWER SHAFTGEAR IS ELIMINATETHE LOOSENESS.

LOOSE.

3. INAPPROPRIATE BELT SEE MECHANICAL P.34

TENSION. ADJUSTMENT "MOTOR

BELT TENSION,*

4. NOT ENOUGH OIL OIL ALL MOVING PARTS.

5. UPPERSHAFTIS LOOSE ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS

7. DEF-ORM_llON 1. INAPPROPRIATE FEED SEE MECHANICAL P.18,19

PAl-tERN BALANCE. ADJUSTMENT "STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE."

2. INAPPROPRIATEZIGZAG SEEMECHANICAL P. 13
SYNCHRONIZATION. ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
SWING."

3. UPPERTHREAD TENSION SEE MECHANICAL

ISTOO STRONG. ADJUSTMENT "TOP TENSION.

8, IMPROPER 1. BUTTONHOLESTITCH SEE MECHANICAL P.28,29

BALANCE ISNOT CORRECT. ADJUSTMENT "BU1-FONHOLE
STITCH BALANCE."

4
SEWING MACHINE All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL
DIV.20 385. 17822490

THREADING OF MACHINE

THE NUMBERED STEPSBELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.

DOTrED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN ISPULLED TIGHT.

RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL
TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER.
PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL.

1. DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.

2. HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND, DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION
AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT.
4. PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFTAND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE.
5. HTREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.

NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR
EASIER NEEDLE THREADING.

5
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER

1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).

2. REMOVETHE SCREWS (B).
3, TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.

TOP COVER

_ (B) (C) _ (D)

(E)

CF)

1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).

2. REMOVE SCREWS (B) AND (C).
3. TAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF.
* WHEN YOU REPLACE THETOP COVER. SETTHE PROJECTION (E) INTO THE GROOVE (F)
OF THE FRONT COVER.

6
SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20
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SERVICE ACCESS
BoI"rOMBASE PLATE

1. REMOVE 4 SCREWS (A).

2. REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (B).

BED COVER

1. REMOVE 2 SCREWS (D).

2. REMOVE THE BED COVER (E).
• WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SETTHE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFTPOSITION
SEWING
MACHINEDIV.20All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL385.17822490

SERVICE ACCESS
BELTCOVER

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B_TCOVER

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PROJECTION _
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TO REMOVE
1. PULL THE SELECTOR DIAL (A) OFF.
2. LOOSEN SCREW (B) AND REMOVE SCREW (C). THEN REMOVE THE BELTCOVER IN THE
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DIRECTION OF ARROW. AS ILLUSTRATED.

TO ATTACH
3. THE PROCEDURE ISTHE REVERSEOF REMOVAL.
(MAKE SURE THE PROJECTION OF THE BELT COVER GOES IN THE GROOVE OF THE
FRONT COVER.)

8
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER

(8)

(A)

(G)
(H)

(C)

MODEL18830
ONLY

1. OPEN THE FACE COVER .

2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER, THE BELTCOVER AND THE BED COVER.
3. REMOVE SCREW (A), (B), (C] AND (D).
4. LOOSEN SCREWS (E), (F), AND (G), THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (H).

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. PULL THE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH (I) OF THE REAR COVER.
2. REMOVE THE LOWER PART OF THE THREAD GUIDE (J).
(TO REPLACE, FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE.)

9
SEWING
MACHINEDIV.20All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL385.17822490

SERVICE ACCESS
REAR PANEL UNIT

(F)

n4/IST AND REMOVE THEARM COVER PART

PRE,_ER FOOT LEVER
FROM THE PRESSERBAR LIFTERLEVER.

FREE ARM COVER

REAR PANEL UNIT

- REMOVAL-
1. OPEN THE FACE PANEL.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT, THE BELTCOVER AND THE BED COVER UNIT.
3. REMOVE SETSCREWS (A) ,(B), (C), AND LOOSEN SETSCREWS (D) - (F).
4. RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER AND PULL AWAY THE ARM COVER FROM THE FREE
ARM. TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART LIFTERFROM THE PRESSERBAR LIFTER
LEVER.

- REPLACEMENT -
5. FIRST.PUTTHE "WINDOW" ON THE PLASTIC PANEL OVER THE PRESSERBAR LIFTERLEVER.
THEN, REPLACE THE 6 SCREWS.

10
SEWING
MACHINE
DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION

TO CHECK:
1. SETTHE TENSION DIAL AT "3 *AND RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT.
2. PASSTHE THREAD (A) BEI_VEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THETHREAD (A) DOWN AROUND
THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG. 1.
3. LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT AND BRING THETHREAD (A) UP.
4. TOP TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THETHREAD (A) UP IN THE DIRECTION
(B).
" USESOFT CoI-rON THREAD#50.
• IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS,ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE FRONT COVER UNIT (SEE PAGE 9).
2. PULL SPRING (C) AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW (D).
3. IF THE TOP TENSION ISTOO LOOSE, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION (E).
IF THE TOP TENSION ISTOO TIGHT, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION (F).

STRONG
(E) , (C)

DETACH
(D) _ (C)

(D)
THREADTENSIONDIAL (3)
PULL THISWAY
(13)

FIG.I

11
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSERBAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT

TO CHECK:
I. RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER (B).
2. THE DISTANCE BETWEENTHE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C) SHOULD BE
6.0 MM (0.24").
* IF THISIS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER (B) AND LOOSEN THE SCREW (D) ON THE PRESSERBAR
HOLDER (E).
3. ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C) TO
6.0 MM (0.24").
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (D) SECURELY.
NOTE: WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW (D), MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF THE
ZIGZAG FOOT (A) RUNS PARALLEL WITH THE FEED DOG.

(A) (F) FEEDDOG SLITS

I1 II
II II

[/lJ ....... .. Y J|
6MM I{ II ,

/ II ii SHOULD BE PARALLEL

(C) FEED DOG

12
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLESWING

TO CHECK:
IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWISE WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZIGZAG
STITCHING, ADJUST IN AS FOLLOWS:
(THE NEEDLE SHOULD STARTSWINGING WHEN 2 TO 3MM ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE.)

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ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVETHETOPCOVER(UNIT),SETTHEPAI"I"ERNSELECTORDIALAT" _ "ANDSELECT
THE MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH.

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2. LOOSEN THE TWO HEX-HEAD SETSCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM GEAR.
3. WHILE HOLDING THE UPPER SHAFT WORM GEAR IN PLACE, CAREFULLY TURN THE
BALANCE WHEEL AND ADJUST SO THAT LATERAL NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM A
POSITION 2 TO 3MM ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT OUTFLOW.
4. TIGHTEN THE TWO HEX-HEAD SETSCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM GEAR.
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5. AI_ACH THE TOP COVER (UNIT).
NOTE: FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER (UNIT), SEE PAGE 6.
AFTER ADJUSTMENT OF THE TIMING OF LATERAL NEEDLE SWING, MAKE SURE
THAT THEREIS NO BACKLASH BETWEENTHE UPPER SHAFT WORM GEAR AND THE
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OTHER GEAR AND THAT SMOOTH ROTATION IS OBTAINED.

5 WORM GEAR lhe bocklash Thebacklash

Isdecreased, is increased.
,_3 UPPER SHAFT
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HEX-HEADSETSCREW
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(Note) 0
ff the uppershaft worm gear deviates
Ioterally when fuming the uppe
shaft,the bocldosh between the
GEAR geors willchange.

I 24_3MM

( Rightoutflow_
\ sta_"t pos_fion )

13
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING

TO CHECK:
1. SETTHE STITCH WIDTH DIAL AT'O'AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT VVV ,
2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL BY HAND.
3. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO SIDE AT THISSEllING.

WIDT(_

SELECTED PAlq-ERN STITCH WIDTH DIAL

14
SEWING
MACHINEDIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER.
2. LOOSEN SCREW (A).
3. MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNT1LTHE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT
WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU.
4. TIGHTEN SCREW [A) SECURELY.

CA)

15
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLESWING

TO CHECK:
1. SETTHE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO "O" AND THE STITCHSELECTOR AT VVV.
2. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITSHIGHEST POSITION.
3. PLACE THE DARNING PLATE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.
4. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE DARNING PLATEAND LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT.
5. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINT (A) ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING
HAND WHEEL.
6. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
7. TURN THE STITCH WIDTH DIAL TO 5.
8. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS (B) AND (C) ON THE PIECE OF PAPER BY
TURNING THE HAND WHEEL.
9. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A-B AND A-C SHOULD BE EQUAL.

WIDT(_

SELECTED pATTERN STITCH WIDTH DIAL

B A C

16
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLESWING

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN SET SCREW (D).
2. MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER(E) EITHERDIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B
AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL.
3. TIGHTEN SETSCREW (D) SECURELY.

(D)

B A C

17
SEW/ING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRETCHSTITCH BALANCE

TO CHECK:
I. SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ _ • STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT STRETCH STITCH AND
STRETCHSTITCH ADJUSTER AT I_-
. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT.

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3 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER.
4. THE NEEDLE SHOULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLES IN FORWARD AND REVERSE
DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARDS YOU.

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0 _ _ STRETCH
STITCH
ADJUSTER

SELECTEDPA_ERN STITCHLENGTH DIAL

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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRETCHSTITCH BALANCE

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
I. REMOVE THE CAP (F).
2. IFTHE REVERSE STITCHLENGTH (B)ISSHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A),
TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (E) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C).

IF THE REVERSESTITCHLENGTH [B) IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A),
TURN THE ADJUSTING SCRE--3N
(E) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D).

0 }< x
A=B A>B A<B

(c)

(D)

(E)

19
SE-_VINGMACHINE D1V.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
FEED DOG HEIGHT

TO CHECK:
1, SETTHE STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT 4 AND RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
2. RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE (#68499) ON THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
3. TURN THE HAND WHEEL AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT.
4. THE FEED DOG HEIGHT SHOULD BE AS PERCHART 1.

CHART 1

GAUGE FEED DOG HEIGHT

FACE (A) FACE (B)

0.95MM 0.75MM

NOT MOVING MOVING CORRECT

NOT MOVING NOT MOVING LOW

MOVING MOVING HIGH

LENGTH
!

@
STITCHLENGTH DIAL (A)

2O
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
FEED DOG HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BED COVER.
2. LOOSEN THE NUT ( A ) AND THE SCREW ( B ).
3. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW ( C ) IN THE DIRECTION OF ( D ) WHEN THE FEED DOG
HEIGHT IS LOW.
4. TIGHTEN THE NUT (A) AND THE SCREW ( B ) SECURELY.

eC

(D)

21
SEWING
MACHINEDIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL385.17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT

MACHINE SETTING:
1. SETTHE STITCHSELECTOR AT _ , ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT 0.

TO CHECK:
1. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) REACHES ITSLOWEST
POSITION.
* IF FINGER (G) COMES DOWN ON TOP OF PIN (H), OR IF PiN [I) TOUCHES THE SURFACE
OF GAUGE (IO TOO FORCEFULLY, ADJUST AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE NEXT
PAGE.
2. THE FACE (G) SHOULD HITTHESIDE OF PIN (H) AND THE END OF PIN ( I ) SHOULD TOUCH
THE GAUGE FACE ( K ) WHEN THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) REACHES ITSLOWEST POSITION.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE NEEDLE. PRESSERFOOT. NEEDLE PLATE ( A ) AND BOBBIN HOLDER ( B ).
2. INSERTTHE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE :#68497 (C) ONTO THE HOOK,
3. AI-[ACH THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT GAUGE :#_58168 [ D ).
* PUSH IT UP UNTIL IT STOPS.
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREW ( E ).

(A)

(c)
(G)

(c)

22
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLEBAR HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. LOOSEN THE SCREW ( M ) ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER ( L ),
3. MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR

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(F) SO THAT THE FACE (G) HITSTHE SIDE OF PIN ( H ) AND THE END OF PIN ( I ) TOUCHES
THE GAUGE FACE (K).
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREW ( M ) SECURELY.

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(L)
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(C)

23
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE TO SHUTTLETIMING

1. SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT i , ZIGZAG WIDTH AT 0.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSERFOOT, NEEDLE PLATE ( A ) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B].
2. INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE _58497 ( C ) SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE
GAUGE FITSINTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK.
3. PUT THE TESTPIN :#68368 ( D ) IN THE NEEDLE HOLDER ( E ).
* PUSH UP IT UNTIL IT STOPS:
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREW ( F ).

TO CHECK:
1. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF TESTPIN #68368
( D ) SLIGHTLY TOUCHES THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE _497 ( C ).
2. THE TiP OF TESTPIN _58368 ( D ) SHOULD BE BETWEEN THE TWO ORANGE LINES OF THE
RADIAL TIMING GAUGE -#68497 ( C ).
* IF THE TEST PIN DOES NOT FALL BETWEEN THE TWO ORANGE LINES ON THE RADIAL
TIMING GAUGE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.

(c)

24
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
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MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE TO SHLIITLETIMING

ADJUST PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE TESTPIN #_58368 FROM THE NEEDLE CLAMP.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER.
3. REMOVE THE SCREW (G) AND TAKE THE BOBBIN WINDER UNIT ( H ) OFF.
4. LOOSEN 2 - SCREWS ( I ) AND ( J ).
5. INSERTTESTPIN #68368 INTO THE NEEDLE CLAMP.
6. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 ( D )
SLIGHTLY TOUCHES THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68497 ( C ).
7. HOLD THE UPPER SHAFT (K) TO PREVENT ITSTURNING AND TURN THE TIMING GEAR (L)
BACKWARD OR FORWARD UNTIL THE TESTPIN #68368 (D) COMES IN BETWEENTHE 1V#O
ORANGE LINES OF GAUGE :#_:_497 (B).
8. TIGHTEN SETSCREWS ( I ) AND ( J ) SECURELY,
9. PUT THE BOBBIN WINDER UNIT ( H ) BACK AND ADJUST THE MICRO-SWITCH BOBBIN
WINDING.

rD (Fo

25
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLECLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE

TO CHECK:
1. SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ .
2. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THETESTPIN #68368 (A).
2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITSLOWEST
POSITION.
3. THE CLEARANCE BETWEENTHE TESTPIN (A) AND THE SHARP END (8) OF THE SHUTTLE
HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN +0.05 AND - 0.10 MM.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BED COVER.
2. LOOSEN SCREWS (C), (D) AND (E).
3. TIGHTEN SCREW (C) TEMPORARILY.
4. MOVE PLATE (F) TO EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE
CLEARANCE BETWEENTHE TESTPiN [A) AND THE SHARP END (B) OF THE SHUITLE HOOK
BECOMES +0.05 AND -0.10 MM.
5, TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (C), (D) AND (E) SECURELY.

26
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BACKLASH ( LOWER SHAFT GEAR )

TO CHECK:
1. REMOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER.
2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE SHUllLE HOOK (A)
IS BETWEEN BOTH ENDS (B) OF THE FEED DOG.
3. ROTATE THE HOOK RACE CLOCKWISE AND COUNTER CLOCKWISE BY HAND AND
CHECK THE PLAY. IT SHOULD BE WITHIN 0.8 MM.
* IF THERE IS MORE THAN 0.8 MM BACKLASH BETWEEN THE GEARS, ADJUST AS
FOLLOWS.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BED COVER AND LOOSEN SETSCREW (C).
2. TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING (ECCENTRIC BUSHING) (D) IN DIRECTION (E) WHEN
THE PLAY AT THE SHUTrLE HOOK TIP ISTOO SMALL.
3. TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING (ECCENTRIC BUSHING) (D) IN DIRECTION (F) WHEN
THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLEHOOK TIP ISTOO LARGE.
4. TIGHTEN SETSCREW ( C ) SECURELY AFTER ADJUSTMENT.

CK THE PLA Y

LOWER SHAFT GEAR OF LOWER SHAFT BUSHING

(r3 (EJ

27
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BUTrONHOLESTITCHBALANCE

TO CHECK:
I. SETTHE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS:
STITCHSELECTOR ................
E]- _]- B-
STITCHLENGTH DIAL...........
BLUE ZONE
STITCHWIDTH DIAL.............
5
2. AnACH THE SLIDING BUTTONHOLE.

m
3. SEW Bu'rrONHOLE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT SIDE AND
LEFTSIDEOF BUTiONHOLE.
4. THE CORRECT BuTrONHOLE STITCHBALANCE ISWHEN THERE ISTHE SAME COARSE ON
THE RIGHTAND LEFTSIDESOF BUTTONHOLE.

.co
es
'EN, TH ( W" TH
uid

STITCHLENGTH DIAL STITCHWIDTH DIAL SELECTED PA_ERN

-g
all

28
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
I. REMOVE THE CAP.
2. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A).
3. IF1HERIGHTSIDEOF THEBuTrONHOLE ISTOO SPAJ'4SE,
TURNTHERING (B) IN 11-1E
DIRF=C11ON
OF
(D).
IF THE LEFTSIDEOF THE BUTfONHOLE ISTOO SPARSE,TURN THE RING (B) IN THE DIRECTION
OF (C),
4. TIGHTEN SETSCREW [A) SECURELY.

RING,

(c)

(It) HEX-HEAD SETSCREW (2.0MM]

CAP

INCORRECT CORRECT INCORRECT

A 8

29
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com MODEL 385, 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE POSITION

TO CHECK:
1. SETTHE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS:
STITCH SELECTOR................
STITCH LENGTH DIAL ........... 5
2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO CENTER POSITION.
3. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO "O."

@-

SELECTEDPA'I3-ERN STITCH WIDTH DIAL

3O
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLEPOSITION

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1, REMOVETHE TOP COVER.
2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTILTHE NEEDLE COMES TO THECENTER OF THE
SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE.
3. LOOSEN SCREWS (A) AND (B).
4. TIGHTEN SCREW (A) SLIGHTLY.
5. MOVE THE PLATE (C) TO EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE
NEEDLE CEASES MOVEMENT, EVEN IF THE DIAL IS MOVED FROM MAXIMUM ZIGZAG
WIDTH TO ZERO.

31
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
ZERO FEEDING

TO CHECK:
I. SETTHE STITCHSELECTOR TO ..... AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIAL TO "0."
2. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.
3. CHECK IFTHE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND
WHEEL TOWARD YOU.
4. THE MACHINE SHOULD NOT FEED A PIECE OF PAPER AT THISSETTING.

LENGTH

SELECTEDPAI-rERN STITCHLENGTH DIAL

32
SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385. 17822490
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
ZERO FEEDING

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER.
2. SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT ..... AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIATL AT "O."
3. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.

m
4. IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (A).
IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (B).

.co
es
uid
-g

FORWARD

BACKWARD
all

33
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
MOTOR BELTTENSION

TO CHECK:
I. IFTHE MOTOR BELT TENSION ISTOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, ITMAY CAUSE BELTNOISE.
ALSO. A TOO TIGHT BELTTENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOW AND WILL
OVERLOAD THE MOTOR.
TOO LOOSE A MOTOR BELT TENSION, HOWEVER, MAY CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON THE
MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP.
2. THE CORRECT MOTOR BELTTENSION ISWHEN THE BELTPUSHES IN ABOUT 7MM (0.28")
-
9MM (0.36")
UNDER A PRESSURE OF ABOUT 300 GRAMS.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BELTCOVER.
2. LOOSEN SCREWS (A) AND (B).
3. MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION TO ABOUT 7MM (0.28") -
9MM (0.36").
4. TIGHTEN SCREWS (A) AND (B).

_ 300g LOAD

DEFLECTION 7-9MM

34
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

OILING
FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTSWILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT
ROUTINE OILING. BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS
WHENEVER SERVICING MACHINES.

OIL:
USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, 8, C, D, E & F) INDICATED
BY THE BLACK ARROWS.

GREASE:
USE WHITE GREASE SUCH AS MOLYCOTE EM-40M AT THE POINTS (G, H, I & J)
INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS.

t
f t I

" l
/r!kll11

)/

_2

H
%
j I

35
SEWtNG MACHINE DIV20
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK

L : LAMP

P : POWER SW{TCH
L
M : MOTOR
P

_=,

36
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.comMODEL 385. 17822490

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE .fl_8499

NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE #68168

f ALLEN SCREW DRIVER

!
TESTPIN #68368

d ALLEN WRENCH

_AUGE #68497

RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET#U 1369C

37