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Brief Contents
Preface xix
Acknowledgments xxi

Part 1 Influences on Food Around the World 3


Chapter 1 Introduction 5
Chapter 2 Cultural Parameters 25
Chapter 3 Religions 37

Part 2 Europe: Early Roots of American Cuisine 69


Chapter 4 British Isles 71
Chapter 5 Scandinavia 87
Chapter 6 Central Europe 103
Chapter 7 Eastern Europe 117
Chapter 8 Italy 135
Chapter 9 France 151

Part 3 Enriched by the Mediterranean Sphere 165


Chapter 10 The Iberian Peninsula 167
Chapter 11 Greece and the Middle East 181
Chapter 12 North Africa 203

Part 4 Heritage from Sub-Saharan Africa 221


Chapter 13 West Africa 223
Chapter 14 East and Southern Africa 235

Part 5 Food Treasures from the Orient and


the Pacific 251
Chapter 15 India and Its Neighbors 253
Chapter 16 Southeast Asia and Its Islands 271
Chapter 17 China 293
Chapter 18 Korea 311
Chapter 19 Japan 327
Chapter 20 Australia and New Zealand 345

Part 6 American Flavors 355


Chapter 21 South America 357
Chapter 22 The Caribbean 375
Chapter 23 Central America and Mexico 391
Chapter 24 Canada 411
Chapter 25 United States 425
Glossary 443
Recipe Index 455
Subject Index 459
vii
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Contents
Preface xix
Acknowledgments xxi

Part 1 Influences on Food Around the World 3

Chapter 1 Introduction 5
Food Origins 5
Early Food Habits 5
Agricultural Developments 6
Influences Determining Diets 8
Geography 8
Environmental Factors 9
Broadening Horizons 11
A Capsule of Cultures and Conquests 12
Early Cultural Sites 12
Conquests and Empires 13
Emerging Trade Routes 17
Today’s World Food Scene 19
Populations at Risk 19
Production 21
Distribution 21
Economics 21
Summary 22 • Study Questions 22 • Bibliography 23

Chapter 2 Cultural Parameters 25


Components of Culture 25
Country of Birth 25
Housing 26
Language 26
The Arts 27
Literature 28
Architecture 28
Additional Dimensions of Culture 29
Immigration 29
Lifestyle 30
Some Cultural Insights 31
Far East 31
India and Southeast Asia 31
Middle East 31
Jewish Practices 32
Hispanic Values 32
Special Messages of Food 32
Salt 32
Egg 33
Summary 34 • Study Questions 34 • Bibliography 35
ix
x Contents

Chapter 3 Religions 37
Hinduism 38
Overview 38
Prominent Gods 38
Beliefs 39
Caste System 39
Reincarnation 40
Respect for Life 40
Holidays 40
Food Practices 41
Buddhism 42
History 42
Foundations 42
Buddhism in Practice 43
Festivals 44
Food Practices 44
Confucianism and Taoism 45
Taoism 46
Rituals and Food 46
Shintoism 47
Festivals 47
Judaism 48
Religious Celebrations 49
Traditions 50
Food Practices 51
Food Traditions 51
Christianity 52
Religious Holidays 54
Food Practices 54
Islam (Muslim) 55
Foundations of Islam 55
Roles of Islamic Men 58
Women’s Roles 58
Architectural Heritage 59
Historical Perspectives 59
Muslim Calendar 59
Dietary Laws 59
Islamic Sects 60
Latter-Day Saints (Mormon) 60
Seventh-Day Adventist 60
Recipes 60 • Summary 65 • Study
Questions 66 • Bibliography 67
Contents xi

Part 2 Europe: Early Roots of American Cuisine 69

Chapter 4 British Isles 71


Geographic Overview 71
History and Culture 72
Food Patterns 74
Class Influences 74
Country Distinctions 75
Holidays 79
Recipes 80 • Summary 84 • Study
Questions 84 • Bibliography 85

Chapter 5 Scandinavia 87
Geographic Overview 87
The Midnight Sun 88
Influenced by the Sea 88
History and Culture 89
The Vikings 89
Political History 90
Religion 90
The Arts 91
The Scandinavian Larder 91
Food Patterns 92
Holidays 94
Recipes 96 • Summary 100 • Study
Questions 100 • Bibliography 101

Chapter 6 Central Europe 103


Geographic Overview 103
History 104
Trading Powers 104
Powerful Families 105
The World Wars 105
Culture 106
The Arts 106
Holidays and Celebrations 107
Food Patterns 107
Switzerland 107
The Netherlands 109
Belgium 109
Germany 110
Austria 111
Recipes 112 • Summary 114 • Study
Questions 114 • Bibliography 115
xii Contents

Chapter 7 Eastern Europe 117


Geographic Overview 117
History and Culture 118
Invasions 118
Cultural Components 121
Food Patterns 122
The Baltic North 122
Russia 122
The Baltic States 124
Poland 125
Czech Republic and Slovakia 125
Hungary 125
Romania 126
The Balkans 126
Recipes 128 • Summary 132 • Study
Questions 132 • Bibliography 133

Chapter 8 Italy 135


Geographic Overview 135
History and Culture 136
Empire Building 136
Artistic Achievements 137
Religion 138
Food Patterns 139
Meals 140
Regional Cuisines 140
Specialties 143
Recipes 145 • Summary 148 • Study
Questions 148 • Bibliography 149

Chapter 9 France 151


Geographic Overview 151
Regions 151
Agriculture 153
History and Culture 154
Religion 155
The Arts 155
Food Patterns 156
Haute Cuisine 156
Provincial French Cooking 157
Dining Patterns 158
Recipes 159 • Summary 162 • Study
Questions 163 • Bibliography 163

Part 3 Enriched by the Mediterranean Sphere 165

Chapter 10 The Iberian Peninsula 167


Geographic Overview 167
Contents xiii

Features 167
Agriculture 168
History and Culture 168
Foreign Influences 168
Exploring and Colonizing 169
The Inquisition 170
Language 170
Religion 170
The Arts 171
Food Patterns 174
Portugal 174
Spain 174
Recipes 176 • Summary 178 • Study
Questions 179 • Bibliography 179

Chapter 11 Greece and the Middle East 181


Geographic Overview 181
Agriculture 182
History and Culture 183
Greece 183
Turkey and the Levant 184
Impact of Trade 185
Religious Impact on the Levant 186
Architecture of the Levant 188
Art 190
Alphabets 190
Holidays 191
Food Patterns 191
Recipes 196 • Summary 200 • Study
Questions 200 • Bibliography 201

Chapter 12 North Africa 203


Geographic Overview 203
Agriculture 204
History and Culture 205
Egypt 205
Libya and the Maghreb 207
Cultural Heritage 209
Food Patterns 211
Recipes 215 • Summary 217 • Study
Questions 218 • Bibliography 218

Part 4 Heritage from Sub-Saharan Africa 221

Chapter 13 West Africa 223


Geographic Overview 223
History and Culture 224
Early People 224
xiv Contents

European Interactions 224


Slavery 225
Religion 226
The Arts 226
Food Patterns 227
Recipes 229 • Summary 232 • Study
Questions 232 • Bibliography 233

Chapter 14 East and Southern Africa 235


Geographic Overview 235
History 237
Early Inhabitants 237
Foreign Involvement 238
North from the Cape of Good Hope 239
Culture 240
Religion 240
The Arts 240
Festivals 241
Food Patterns 241
Foreign Influences 241
Meal Patterns 242
Challenges 245
Recipes 245 • Summary 248 • Study
Questions 248 • Bibliography 249

Part 5 Food Treasures from the Orient


and the Pacific 251

Chapter 15 India and Its Neighbors 253


Geographic Overview 253
History and Culture 254
India 254
Nepal 258
Bhutan 258
Tibet 259
Pakistan 259
Afghanistan 259
Bangladesh 259
Sri Lanka 259
Food Patterns 261
Recipes 265 • Summary 268 • Study
Questions 269 • Bibliography 269

Chapter 16 Southeast Asia and Its Islands 271


Geographic Overview 271
History and Culture 273
Myanmar (Burma) 273
Thailand 274
Contents xv

Cambodia 275
Laos 276
Vietnam 277
Malaysia 277
Indonesia 278
French Polynesia 278
The Philippines 280
Religion 280
The Arts 281
Food Patterns 283
Foods 283
Foreign Influences 285
Recipes 287 • Summary 290 • Study
Questions 291 • Bibliography 291

Chapter 17 China 293


Geographic Overview 293
History and Culture 294
Food Patterns 298
Schools 298
Cereals 300
Produce 301
Soy Products 302
Protein Sources 302
Seasonings 302
Meals 303
Recipes 303 • Summary 308 • Study
Questions 309 • Bibliography 309

Chapter 18 Korea 311


Geographic Overview 311
History and Culture 312
Early Kingdom 312
Foreign Incursions 313
Republic of Korea 313
Culture 313
Food Patterns 316
Recipes 320 • Summary 323 • Study
Questions 324 • Bibliography 324

Chapter 19 Japan 327


Geographic Overview 327
Food Challenges 327
History and Culture 329
Early Settlers 329
Governance 329
Interactions with the West 329
Religion 330
xvi Contents

Traditions 331
The Arts 332
Sports 333
Holidays 333
Food Patterns 333
Rice 333
Soy Products 334
Food from the Sea 334
Soups 335
Noodles 336
Vegetables 336
Dining 337
Recipes 337 • Summary 342 • Study
Questions 343 • Bibliography 343

Chapter 20 Australia and New Zealand 345


Geographic Overview 345
History and Culture 346
History 346
Religion 347
Sports 347
The Arts 348
Holidays 348
Food Patterns 349
Recipes 350 • Summary 352 • Study
Questions 353 • Bibliography 353

Part 6 American Flavors 355

Chapter 21 South America 357


Geographic Overview 357
Agricultural Insights 359
History and Culture 359
Pre-Columbian 359
Spanish and Portuguese Conquests 360
Liberation 361
Religion 361
Holidays and Festivals 361
The Arts 362
Food Patterns 363
Overview 363
Colombia and Venezuela 364
Brazil 364
Argentina 365
Chile 365
Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia 366
Recipes 367 • Summary 371 • Study
Questions 372 • Bibliography 372
Contents xvii

Chapter 22 The Caribbean 375


Geographic Overview 375
History and Culture 376
Pre-Columbian 376
European Impact 376
Pirates 377
Colonialism 378
Governance 378
Religion 379
The Arts 379
Leisure 380
Food Patterns 380
Crops from Afar 380
Indigenous Foods 380
Favorite Dishes 380
Recipes 384 • Summary 388 • Study
Questions 389 • Bibliography 389

Chapter 23 Central America and Mexico 391


Geographic Overview 391
Central America 392
Mexico 393
History and Culture 394
Early Civilizations 394
European Influences 395
Mexican Independence 396
Religion 397
Holidays 397
Food Patterns 398
Corn and Wheat 398
Rice 400
Other Foods 400
Beverages 401
Meal Patterns 401
Regional Cuisines of Mexico 402
Recipes 402 • Summary 407 • Study
Questions 408 • Bibliography 408

Chapter 24 Canada 411


Geographic Overview 411
History and Culture 412
Natives 412
Vikings 412
Europeans 413
Food Patterns 417
Recipes 419 • Summary 422 • Study
Questions 423 • Bibliography 423
xviii Contents

Chapter 25 United States 425


Geographic Overview 425
History and Culture 426
Indians 426
The Emerging Nation 427
The Changing Scene 429
Religion 430
Ethnic Celebrations 430
Regional Foods 431
Northeastern Traditions 431
Southern Cuisine 431
Midwestern Fare 432
Western Dishes 433
New Foods in the Marketplace 434
Immigrants and Food Choices 435
Shifting Food Patterns 435
Recipes 437 • Summary 440 • Study
Questions 440 • Bibliography 441

Glossary 443
Recipe Index 455
Subject Index 459
Preface
This has been a particularly interesting and challenging time to be writing this edition; the Arab
Spring heralded a period of unrest and turmoil which is clearly still evolving. It has been sober-
ing to remember that I was in Benghazi driving past the American Embassy in 2006, a year after
Libya had first welcomed tourists, and now barely seven years later, dreams of international
peace are ever harder to bring to reality. However, common threads of human needs still afford
some avenues for understanding and appreciating the uniqueness of individuals and nations.
Food offers a particularly significant pathway of study to promote cultural knowledge. I hope
that this edition can be helpful to those seeking to expand their knowledge and understanding of
food and its cultural variations.
Food is a significant messenger of culture and the human experience. We have all grown
up with experiences of family meals and parties where we ate delicious foods that were favor-
ites dating back at least a generation. Conversations may have recalled the great fried chicken,
spaghetti and meatballs, or tamales that Grandma used to make. The special treats vary with our
ancestral tree, but memories of food specialties still persist for us.
Each of us is a member of (or soon will become a part of) a minority in the United States.
This remarkable increase in diversity within the U.S. population means that we all need to learn
more about the world: its geographic parameters, food, and social and economic factors that
have shaped the people who have emigrated from other nations to the United States. Better rela-
tionships between individuals, within schools, and throughout communities and the nation begin
with learning about one another, what we value and seek. Food preferences and eating habits
provide a fascinating and very approachable avenue for promoting understanding.
Now is a wonderful time to get acquainted with the world, its nations, their people, and
culture. Your study will increase your knowledge and appreciation of the diverse traditions and
food patterns of people in your community, school, and workplace. You will develop a spirit
of adventure as you discover exciting new flavors and textures in foods from around the world.
Whether you are preparing these dishes yourself or dining in a restaurant featuring foreign spe-
cialties, your enjoyment will be enhanced when you know about the region or country that devel-
oped the original cuisine. Regardless of your professional goals, this book will help you become
a citizen of the world. However, this knowledge is particularly important for dietitians, nutrition-
ists, and food technologists as they strive to help people from other cultures achieve healthy and
satisfying food patterns in this country.
This edition has been changed in several ways. The chapter on Canada is new. I have also
included discussion on some of the world’s food problems and the reasons for severe food short-
ages in several countries. Maps of the regions and countries are provided throughout. More color
and black-and-white pictures are included to help readers visualize the uniqueness of the differ-
ent places visited in the book. Definitions in the margins and study questions are additional aids.
Now it is time to journey with me around the world through the pages of this book.
Let’s go!
Margaret McWilliams
Redondo Beach, California

New to this Edition


This edition has been updated to maintain its objective of examining food and cultural patterns
while also incorporating the current situation relating to the food scene around the world, as
­impacted by geography, population pressures, economics, politics, and natural disasters.
• New chapter on Canada
• Extensive revision of Chapters 1 and 25 (formerly Chapter 24)
• Extensive changes in the black-and-white photos
• Numerous changes in the color photos
• Updated maps
• Thorough revision of supplements for professors

xix
xx Preface

Online Supplements Accompanying the Text


An online Instructor's Manual and MyTest are available to instructors at www.­pearsonhighered.
com. Instructors can search for a test by author, title, ISBN, or by selecting the appropriate ­discipline
from the pull-down menu at the top of catalog home page. To access s­ upplementary materials
online, instructors need to request an instructor access code. Go to www.­pearsonhighered.com,
click the Instructor Resource Center link, and then click Register Today for an instructor ac-
cess code. Within 48 hours after registering, you will receive a confirming e-mail including
an ­instructor access code. Once you have received your code, go to the site and log on for full
instruction on downloading the materials you wish to use.
Acknowledgments
I continue to be indebted to two close, very talented friends who have been so encouraging,
helpful, and patient during the preparation of this manuscript and especially during production.
Dr. Antoinette Empringham, formerly Professor of English at El Camino College, has been my
sounding board not only when I was starting to revise Chapter 1 in this book, but also for other
chapters in my other books. That is the really tough moment for me, and her questions regard-
ing my plans have always helped me move from intangible ideas in my head to an evolving
manuscript. Fortunately for readers, her help extended through production where her sharp eyes
helped considerably in spotting typos so that readers’ eyes can focus on the printed word, rather
than having to wonder what should be on the page. Pat Chavez, my other proofreading friend,
also is owed much thanks for her skillful work proofreading this book and others that have gone
through production in the past few years. It is wonderful to have friends who are cheerful and
very competent aides in our production phase. And with this edition, I am pleased to have the
opportunity to recognize Ned Forsyth for his remarkably careful proofreading to help eliminate
typographical errors. I gratefully thank David Lombard, my neighbor and computer guru, who
waved his magic wand to open some confounding files that came in e-mails from India dur-
ing production. Without him, some chapters would have remained invisible to me at critical
moments.
My hat is tipped to my editor Bill Lawrensen and his great co-workers at Pearson
Education. Their prompt and thorough responses to my queries and requests make my writing
tasks much easier. I also appreciate all that they do at their end to create a beautiful book from
my manuscript, which by no stretch of the imagination could even be described as attractive.
They are the ones who make it happen.
My special thanks go to Shiny Rajesh, my long-distance friend and colleague at Integra
in Pondicherry, India. Her patience and skill in helping me through the challenges of working
electronically through the entire production process have been invaluable. She also was my won-
derful hostess when I was fortunate enough to get to meet her in person at Integra.
It is with deep appreciation that I thank my reviewers, Tawni Holmes, University of
Central Oklahoma; Monica Lowe, Eastern Michigan University; Julie Davis, Benedictine
University; Stephanie Herrington, Austin Community College; and Wilfred Beriau, Southern
Maine Community College, for their helpful comments and thoughts. Their input was very
­useful in conceptualizing this edition.
Margaret McWilliams
Redondo Beach, California

xxi
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Food Around the World
ASIA

NORTH EUROPE
AMERICA

AFRICA

SOUTH
AMERICA

AUSTRALIA
Part
1
Influences on Food Around
the World

Chapter 1 Introduction
Chapter 2 Cultural Parameters
Chapter 3 Religions

3
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listening to a conversation between two transatlantic liners. I
suppose if the manager of the hotel had known about it, he’d have
charged me extra for using the bed as an aerial.
It showed me, though, that there were great possibilities in
wireless and that we may yet be able to talk with the inhabitants of
Mars. I wanted to get into wireless deeper and I did.
CHAPTER II—MY FIRST JOB AS AN OPERATOR

Just before the Christmas holidays my father, who was the New York
manager of the Singer Crude Oil Engine Company, told mother and
me that he had to make a business trip to Nicaragua.
There was nothing exciting in this announcement for dad went off
on business trips quite often, but when he said that he would take us
with him and we’d go by steamer I immediately sat up and took
notice, for I had wanted to make a sea voyage ever since I could
remember.
It may seem a little queer but although I lived almost within sight
of the old Atlantic and picked up messages right along from coast
liners, the only trip I had ever made was on a little steam launch that
takes unwary pleasure victims from Asbury Park outbound toward
Europe for about ten miles, or until every one’s gizzard is turned
wrong-side-out (much to the delight of the fishes) and back again.
I said every one was sea-sick nigh unto death but as a matter of
fact there were just three human beings aboard the Snail that were
able to step ashore like sober folks and walk a fairly straight line. I
don’t want to do any bragging but these sole survivors of mal-de-mer
were the captain and the engineer, who made up the crew, and
yours truly.
To make a real ocean voyage on a sure enough steamer meant
something more to me than just a sea-going trip, for a law had been
passed some time before making it compulsory for all ocean
passenger vessels to have a wireless outfit aboard and I was just
bugs to see a regular ship set in operation.
For the next few days everything around home was a hurry-up
place—like going away for the summer—and I was mighty glad
when at last we took the Erie (not weary) railroad for Jersey City,
where the Pan-American Line had its docks. Once there, a couple of
porters relieved us of our numerous pieces of hand baggage, and
trailing along in the rear of dad and mom, I came aboard feeling like
a duke.
After we were shown our staterooms by the steward I made a
bee-line for the wireless room, but found it locked, the operator not
yet having put in an appearance. To kill time till he came I went up on
the hurricane deck, that is the upper deck, to take a look at the
aerial.
It was formed of a couple of parallel wires about 200 feet long
suspended between the masts and insulated from them by strain
insulators of the kind that was then known as the Navy type. I was
standing close to one of the funnels looking up at the aerial, which
seemed to me to be a middling one—I had seen better and worse in
Montclair—when all of a sudden there was a terrific noise set up and
for a second I failed to cohere—that is I was nearly scared stiff. In an
instant my jigger was right again, for it was only the ship’s whistle
blowing its deep throated blast to let those who had come aboard to
say good-by to their friends who were sailing, know that it was time
to go ashore, and to those ashore who wanted to take the boat know
that they had better get a move on them if they expected to make it.
When I got back to the wireless room there was quite a collection
of people crowded around the little window, but whether for the
purpose of sending messages or out of curiosity I didn’t know. I
stood about as much chance of getting up to that window as a fellow
has of getting on a subway express at Brooklyn Bridge during the
rush hour.
I went away in disgust and didn’t go back again until we had
sailed down the river, passed through the Narrows and had dropped
the pilot out at sea.
Suddenly I heard the ze—ze—zip—zip—zippy snap of the sparks
of the transmitter as the operator began to send, and I rushed madly
to the wireless room. As I ran down the passageway I read ‒··· ·‒· ‒
that is B R T, B R T, B R T, at intervals of every two or three
minutes; B R T was the call letter of some shore station that the
operator was trying to get, but without my book, which gave the call
letters of the different ship and shore stations, I couldn’t tell which
one it was.
You know, of course, that when a vessel wants to talk to a station
either on ship or shore the first thing the operator does is to listen-in
—to make sure that he will not interfere with messages that are
being exchanged between other stations within his range. If the ether
isn’t too busy he then sends the call letter of the station he wants.
On reaching the wireless room I found a bigger crowd
congregated around the window than ever for the zip—zippy crackle
of the sparks as they broke down the air between the spark-gap
electrodes had attracted the curious even as honey attracts insects
of the Musca domestica family, i.e., houseflies, and I couldn’t get
within six feet of it.
There was a short lull while the operator looked over a message
which a little man with red hair and a pepper and salt suit had written
out. When the operator started to send again I read off the name of
our ship, the state of the weather and the number of words he
intended to send, all of which was in accordance with the regular
routine prescribed by the rules and regulations of the company for
governing communications by wireless between ships and shore
stations. The message ran like this:
For fear you may not know the Morse code which was used by all
coastwise steamers in those early days, I will do it into English for
you.
Transcriber’s note: The code shown is American Morse Code, which differs from
the more familiar International Morse Code in use today.

S G, which I afterwards looked up, was, I found, a station at Sea


Gate which was on the coast. Vinalos was the name of our ship.
Fine meant the state of the weather. Fifteen indicated the number of
words the message contained.
I laughed at the man who forgot, but nobody else laughed
because there was probably not one among them who knew the
difference between a binding post and an electric wave.
All of that afternoon I read the outgoing messages, but I felt I was
losing something by not getting what was coming in. Then a brilliant
idea struck me and I immediately proceeded to put it into execution
with the result that it almost electrocuted me.
I took out my little portable receiving set, hooked a wire to the
detector and the other end to the electric light fixture for a ground
which, from what I had read about ship stations, I had reason to
believe made a connection with the steel hull of the ship. Being so
close to the 2 kilowatt (about 2½ horsepower) transmitter, one side
of the spark-gap of which also made connection with the hull, I
hadn’t the slightest doubt but that I could receive without an aerial
and I certainly did, but the kind wasn’t right.
No sooner had I put on my head-phones and my fingers on the
adjusting screw of the detector than zip, zum, bang, boom, and I
received a terrific shock that lifted me clear off the edge of my bunk; I
hung suspended in mid-air ’tween decks (or so it seemed) and to
give verisimilitude to the levitation act, I recoiled like a 12-inch gun
and hit the floor with a dull thud. I was glad the man I laughed at
because he forgot, was not there to laugh at the fellow who didn’t
know.
When I had fully come to and was able to use my thinker again I
knocked the wire off of the electric light fixture and then proceeded to
examine my receiver to see if anything had been damaged. Beyond
burning off the point of my detector there was no scathe done, and I
overhauled it and put the instrument back in its box.
My next move was to see the operator and hold some small
wireless talk with him. It was now late in the afternoon and when I
got back it overjoyed me to find that the crowd who hungered to
penetrate the mystery of sending messages without wires had
fathomed its very depths and departed, that is, all except one young
couple who were from Missouri, according to the passenger list, and
of course they must needs be shown.
The moment I saw the operator’s face I set him down for one of
those fresh young fellows you meet everywhere and I did not miss
my guess. Now you would hardly believe it, but it is nevertheless
true, that there are a few operators who think it smart and a great
joke to tell land-lubbers anything but the truth whenever they are
questioned about wireless.
“What I can’t understand,” said the young woman, “is how you can
send out a wireless message when the wind is blowing so hard.”
If the operator had been even a 14-carat gentleman he would
have told her that when he works the key a low pressure current of
electricity is broken up into dots and dashes representing letters and
that this intermittent current flowing through the coil of the transmitter
is changed into high frequency oscillations by the spark; the
oscillations then surge through the aerial wire and their energy is
emitted from the aerial in the form of electric waves. These electric
waves are exactly the same as light waves, except that they are very
much longer, and both are transmitted by, in and through the ether.
Hence the wind, which is air in motion, has nothing at all to do with it.
This would have been the real scientific explanation of how a
message is sent and while it would, more than likely, have been as
clear as mud to her young inquiring mind, still if she could not grasp
the true explanation of how it works it would have been her
misfortune and not the operator’s fault. See?
But did he tell the lady straight? You could have told from his
physiog that he would not. Instead he went on at great length and
framed up a story of how the wind had once blown a message he
had sent far out of its course and then suddenly veering round it
blew it back again and he caught his own message several minutes
later when he was listening-in for the reply. This he claimed, with
great seriousness was due to the low power of his instruments and a
fouled aerial.
“Are you having any trouble now on account of the wind?”
continued the young woman deeply interested.
“None at all, because you see I am using a four horsepower spark
and I have just had my aerial sandpapered and oiled and the waves
slip off without the slightest difficulty.”
This little speech gave me another shock, but I had a third one
coming and forthwith got it.
“How are they coming in?” I asked, leaning against the window
after the couple had gone.
“What do you mean?” he questioned as he looked at me through
half closed eyes in a way I didn’t fancy.
“Why the messages?”
“Through the window,” he returned shortly, and went back to his
key.
I stuck around the window and took a good look at the instruments
which to my way of thinking weren’t much, in fact a lot of fellows in
Montclair had outfits that put his way in the shade except that they
were not as powerful. I couldn’t see why he was so swelled on
himself.
He began calling again and after he had put through his message
I repeated it out loud as though I was talking to myself, just to let him
know that I knew.
He took off his head-phones, came over to the window and smiled
a thin-lipped smile which was anything but friendly.
“So you’re another one of those wireless kids, eh?”
“Yes, I have a pretty good wireless set. I live in Montclair and very
often I hear Key West,” I told him with some pride.
The way he warmed up to me was something wonderful and in all
my experience as an operator I have never met another of exactly
his wave length.
“You kids,” he said, pointing his long bony finger at my right eye,
“make life a nightmare for us professionals. Every kid that knows
how to splice a wire seems to be crazy to send messages. Ninety-
nine out of a hundred know nothing of wireless and their signals are
simply a jumble of sparks.
“A kid has no business learning wireless at all. I can tune out
amateur low power stations, but they are always breaking in in the
middle of a message. I haven’t got any use for a wireless kid. So
hotfoot it and don’t hang around here any more.”
This was too much for even a fellow with a cast-iron nerve like
mine, so I turned on my heel, said sore-head under my breath and
took a walk on the promenade deck. He was the first professional
operator I had ever met and I was certainly disappointed in the way
he treated a brother operator. I wondered then if all professional
operators had his kind of a grouch and if so, I didn’t want to be one
of them.
Not to be out-generaled I thought I’d try one more scheme and
that was to use a couple of pieces of wire five or six feet long for the
aerial and ground, hook them on to the detector of my receiver, fix
the free end of the aerial over the window and lay the free end of the
ground wire on the floor. In this way there would be no direct metal
connection between his transmitter and my receiver.
The waves from his set were so powerful that they easily bridged
the gap and I listened-in whenever I wanted to and knew
everybody’s business on board all the way down to Realjo. But I kept
away from the wireless room and that operator. Before we landed I
found out from the second officer that the operator was only a
substitute for the regular one and that it was the second trip he had
ever made.
After a stay of a couple of weeks in Realjo we started back for
New York on the Almirante. I didn’t know whether to tackle making
friends with the operator or not. I had swallowed a pretty bitter
wireless pill on the way down and didn’t care about repeating the
dose.
The second day out I ventured close enough to the instrument
room to see what the outfit looked like and to size up the operator in
charge.
He was a big fellow with a full rounded face and every little while
he would whistle a popular air which fitted in nicely with the bright
sunshine that flooded the room. At the same time he would listen-in
and finally he sent O. K., which in the wireless code means that he
had heard the operator of the distant station who was calling him and
that he was ready to take his message.
Of course I couldn’t tell what was coming in but I was aching to
put those head-phones on just once. When he had finished writing
out the message he put it in an envelope and started to leave the
room. Spotting me standing by he beamed pleasantly.
“Oh! I say, boy, I wonder if you would be so kind and
condescending as to take this message to the Captain? Some other
messages are likely to come in and I don’t want to leave my post.”
Would I carry a message to the Captain? Why I’d carry one to the
King of Abyssinia for a pleasant word from any professional operator.
I felt that there was my chance to get a stand-in with his royal
highness, the wireless man.
After delivering the message to the Captain I returned with alacrity
to the window of the wireless room. The operator loosened up but I
didn’t tell him I was one of those fellows too. I had learned at first
hand that professional operators hadn’t any use for wireless kids and
that the only way to be friends with one was to be as dumb as a clam
as far as wireless was concerned.
This scheme worked out fine for after some talk he asked me of
his own accord if I’d like to take a look at the apparatus. He opened
the door and told me to “come right in” although on a card tacked on
the wall in plain sight was printed this legend:

Service Regulations for Operators.


(1) The instrument room is strictly private. No strangers are
allowed on the premises without a signed permit from the
Managing Director.

And this was followed by a dozen or more other rules and


regulations.
When I got inside the room the operator, whose name was
Bathwick, began pointing out which part of the apparatus was the
sender and which made up the receiver; this was the key; that the
sending tuning coil, over here the condenser; under the table the
transformer; on the wall the spark-gap; and altogether these make
up the transmitter. This the crystal detector, the potentiometer, the
tuning coil, the variable condenser and the head-phones make up
the receiver and, finally the aerial switch, or throwover switch as it is
called, the purpose of which is to enable the operator to connect the
aerial with the transmitter or the receiver, depending on whether he
wants to send or to receive.
I acted as if I had never seen a wireless set before; all went well
until he had finished and then I let the cat out of the bag. He had a
peculiar kind of a loose-coupled tuning coil that I had never seen
before and I asked him how it was wound. He grinned at me with his
big mouth and blue eyes and put out his open hand, palm side up.
“Put it there, pal,” he said. “I was a wireless kid myself once.” We
shook hands and it put me next to the fact that all professional
operators are not alike and at the same time it gave me a pass to the
wireless room whenever I wanted it. I almost lived there the rest of
the voyage.
Harry—I mean Bathwick—and I got so thick we began calling
each other by our first names. He let me listen-in whenever I wanted
to, and then after telling me all about the service regulations that had
to do with the order in which the messages were sent, he let me try
my hand at sending.
One night when we were off Cape Hatteras and a furious gale
was blowing Harry got suddenly sick and as this is the worst part of
the whole trip the Captain was in a quandary about his wireless
messages. Harry told him that I could work the instruments and to
put me in his place. The Captain seemed doubtful at first because of
my age, but there was nothing else he could do.
Naturally I made a few mistakes but at that I was pretty successful
and I had the distinction, so the Captain told my father, of being the
youngest operator on board ship on record.
Well, the gist of it all was that when I graduated from High School
in the spring and wanted a job as an operator I made application to
the United Wireless Company, which at that time controlled about all
the coastwise steamers, and, armed with a letter of recommendation
from Captain Harding of the Almirante, I got it on the good ship
Carlos Madino.
The year I was the operator on this ship I visited many Central
American ports. I became more and more imbued with the desire to
see farther around the corners of the great round world and I think I
can safely say I have done so in a fairly creditable manner.
CHAPTER III—WHEN THE ANDALUSIAN WENT DOWN

As I have said, I was in the coastwise trade for nearly a year, and
could savvy anything in English or Spanish, Morse or Continental,
that the old-time operators were able to send. I had sent and
received messages of every description and for every conceivable
purpose.
Why, once a brother operator and I married a maid who was on
board my ship to a man somewhere in Panama by wireless. Of
course there was a minister at each end to help the ceremony along
but it was we operators who really did it with our wireless sets.
Another time while we were running through a storm it was my
pleasant duty to flash the tidings ashore that a stork had overtaken
us and added two more to our passenger list, both consigned, to use
a maritime term, to the same family.
The most exciting time I had while I was on the Carlos Madino
was when we were taking a cargo of munitions to the Nicaraguan
government and which we had orders to land at “Alvarada,” the
headquarters of the Army.
When we were within a day’s run of that port I heard the call CM
CM CM which was our ship. I sent my O. K., and then got a
message for the Captain which told him to land the cargo at
“Grayville” as the insurgents were watching “Alvarada.” It was signed
Strada, Minister of War, Nicaragua.
I took this important message to the Captain myself and we were
soon headed for “Grayville.” Several other messages passed
between the Captain and the Minister of War and it struck me that
the signals were the strongest I had ever received for the distance
covered; in fact they were strong enough for a 5 kilowatt transmitter
instead of a 2 kilowatt transmitter which I knew was installed at the
station at “Alvarada.”
My first thought was that I had struck some highly sensitive spot
on my crystal and I tested it out only to find that wherever I put the
wire point on it the signals came in just as clear and loud. I
wondered. While I am not the seventh son of a son-of-a-gun nor do I
claim any supernatural powers I got the hunch that down here in
tropic waters where insurrections are the rule and not the exception
all was not as it should be.
I told the Captain about it and while he didn’t take much stock in
the idea he had a search made of the ship. One of the room
stewards reported that he had found an electric cord with a plug end
hanging from a lamp socket in room 138. It might have been for an
electric iron, for a hot-water heater or any one of a dozen other
electric appliances, he said, but it looked suspicious.
A more thorough search of room 138, in which the Captain and I
took part, revealed a heavy suit case under the bunk, which had a
place to plug in the cord, another for the receivers, and a key—at
least this was my theory. A strict watch was kept on the stateroom
and I went back and sent GA, which was the call for “Alvarada” every
few minutes.
In the course of fifteen minutes or so I got the OK of the operator
at GA. The steward who had entered the stateroom adjoining the
one occupied by the suspect heard the faintest sounds of sparks
coming from it. After this report I made a careful examination of my
aerial and found that the leading-in wire from it which connected with
my aerial switch had been cut while the end of the wire from my
instruments had been connected to a wire so small it could scarcely
be seen and this wire led to stateroom 138.
After connecting my instruments to the aerial again I immediately
got in touch with the station at “Alvarada” and learned that no orders
had been given by the Minister of War to change our port of
destination. The Captain had the protesting passenger put in irons to
be turned over to the government officials of Nicaragua and thus it
was that another small insurrection was knocked in the head.
I had filed an application with the Marconi Company of America
for a job on one of their transatlantic ships; it was in for nearly three
months and I had long since concluded that it and I were
pigeonholed. My great ambition now was to get a berth on one of the
big ships that crossed the pond. Various operators had told me that it
was useless to try to get in with the Marconi Company because the
latter employed only operators who received their training in the
Marconi wireless schools abroad.
Be that as it may on one of my return trips my father handed me a
note from the Chief Engineer of the Marconi Company to see him. I
did so and the result of that interview gave me the post of Chief
Wireless officer of the s. s. Andalusian, one of the largest ships of
the Blue Star Line.
Her route was between New York and Liverpool. Built by Harlan
and Wolff of Belfast, Ireland, she was launched in 1901 and fitted for
the transatlantic service in 1902. She was over 600 feet long, her
breadth was nearly 70 feet and her depth was 40 feet. Talk about a
ship, boy, the Andalusian was as far ahead of the Carlos Madino as
that ship was ahead of a lifeboat.
The aerial of the Andalusian was formed of two wires 375 feet
long and suspended between her top-gallant masts 200 feet above
the sea and were held apart by two 8-foot spreaders. She was one
of the first ships to be fitted with wireless and her wireless room was
a specially built room on the port side of the forward saloon deck.
Although the apparatus was of the old Marconi type, having been
installed when the ship was built, we could send from 300 to 400
miles with it and receive four times that distance. The transmitter
was formed of two 10 inch induction coils the primaries of which
were connected in series and the secondaries in parallel so that
while the length of the spark was still 10 inches it was twice as fat
and hence proportionately more powerful.
There was a jigger, as Marconi called his tuning coil, and a battery
of 18 Leyden jars made up the condenser for tuning the sending
circuits. It was also fitted with a new kind of a key invented by
Sammis who was at that time the chief engineer of the Marconi
Company of America.
He called it a changeover switch but it was really a key and an
aerial switch combined. In order to connect the receiver with the
aerial all you had to do was to turn the key, which was on a pivot, to
the right. When the key was turned it also cut off the current from the
transmitter by breaking the sliding contact between them.
To throw on the transmitter and cut off the receiver you simply
turned the key back to its normal position and this made the
connection between the aerial and tuning coil and at the same time it
closed the circuit connecting the source of current with the induction
coils.
The up-to-date feature of this set was the storage battery which
provided an auxiliary source of current so that in the event of the
ship becoming disabled and water flooding the engine room, which
would put the dynamo out of commission, the storage battery in the
operating room could be thrown in and C Q D could be sent out as
long as the wireless room remained above water. This was a mighty
good piece of hindsight, for ships that might otherwise have been
saved by wireless had gone down at sea with passengers, crew and
cargo simply because the dynamos were drowned out.
The receiver was different from the one I used on the Carlos
Madino for instead of a crystal detector we had a magnetic detector
which Marconi had recently invented. While the magnetic detector
was not nearly as sensitive as a crystal detector when you found a
sensitive spot on the latter, still there were no adjustments to be
constantly made as with the former.
Now I’ve told you something about the ship and her wireless
equipment and right here I want to introduce Algernon Percy Jeems,
Second Wireless Officer of the Andalusian and my assistant. Perce,
as I called him, looked his name and lived up to it. He was as
thoroughbred a gentleman as ever worked a key.
He wasn’t very big in body—only 5 foot 4—and he was of very
frail build but he proved to be a giant when it came to sheer bravery
and as for meeting death when duty called he was absolutely
unafraid. In fact when he saw the grim old reaper bearing down on
him he went out of his way to grasp him by the hand and said:
“When I get through with this message I’ll be ready to go with you.”
And he did!
Before I tell you what happened to the Andalusian and of the
heroic nerve of Jeems, I want you to know what C Q D means and
how it came to be used as a distress signal. It was not until Jack
Binns, who stuck to his key for 52 hours on the ill-fated Republic and
by so doing saved the lives of 1600 passengers and crew on board
that C Q D came to be known the world over as a distress signal.
In the Continental code, which is used all over Europe by the wire
telegraph lines, C Q means that every operator on the line shall give
attention to the message which is to follow. It was natural then that
when wireless apparatus began to be installed on ships that the
Continental code should be the one used. C Q was the call signal
employed to mean that every operator was to give attention to the
message to follow, just as in the wire systems, or as it is said on
shipboard to stand by.
Then the Marconi Company added the letter D which means
danger, hence C Q D means stand by danger and when this signal is
received by an operator at sea, no matter how important the
message that he is sending or receiving may be, he drops it at once
and answers the C Q D signal to find out what the trouble is.
Now to go on with the story: We sailed from Liverpool about noon
on the 15th of March for New York with a full passenger list and a
valuable cargo. The first couple of days out the weather was fairly
decent but as usual at this time of the year we ran into a real winter
gale. We were struck time and again by mountainous seas. One
gigantic wave that broke over her bow tore away a part of the bridge,
others poured through ventilators and nearly every time she was hit
more damage was done. To make matters worse the high winds
drove us out of our course.
Although a sharp watch was kept it was so dark at night the
lookout couldn’t see his hand an arm’s length before his eyes though
he might have been able to see a ship’s lights ahead had one been
bearing down on us. As the Captain had been on the bridge
continuously for three days and nights I felt it was my duty as the first
wireless officer to stick to my key, and though it was Perce’s watch I
told him to turn in.
About midnight I heard the hull scrape against something that
sounded as though she’d struck bottom when crossing a bar, or
perhaps it was an iceberg. She keeled over until I thought she was a
goner but straining and giving in every part of her superstructure she
gradually rolled back and righted herself again.
The saloon and second cabin passengers came tumbling out of
their rooms in nighties and pajamas but what they lacked in clothes
they made up in life preservers. Wherever you find danger there you
will find among the panic-stricken a few cool, calm and collected
men and women and sure enough two or three men and as many
women appeared a few minutes later fully dressed and ready for
anything that might happen. The officers assured all hands that
nothing had or could happen and nearly all of them returned to their
rooms.
The third class passengers were locked in the steerage and here
pandemonium reigned. They pounded on the hatchways and
demanded that they be allowed to go on deck; they were scared stiff.
Like the other and more fortunate passengers they were soon
quieted by cool headed stewards and returned to their miserable
quarters in the fo’cas’le.
Within the next couple of hours one of the assistant engineers
discovered that the seams of the hull had parted aft and the water
was pouring into her hold. The Captain ordered all the bulkhead
doors closed, to keep the water out of the other compartments, and
her great pumps going, but once started the mighty pressure of the
inrushing water ripped her seams farther along and broadened the
gap. Knowing she could not stay afloat for any great length of time
the Captain ordered me to send out the call for help and to be quick
about it.
I got busy with the key sending out C Q D C Q D C Q D listening
inbetween the calls as I never listened before to get an O K to my
signals. It seemed as if all the operators were either asleep, dead or
on the other side of the Equator, but after an eternity of time—which
probably amounted to as much as five minutes by the clock—I
caught the signal O K and then, “what’s up, old man.”
It was the s. s. Arapahoe that had answered and I was nearly
frantic with joy for I felt that all of the responsibility for saving those
1200 souls on board rested entirely on me. I sent back the name of
our ship, told him we were fast sinking, gave our latitude and
longitude so that the Arapahoe would know where to find us if by
good fortune we were still afloat when she reached us and, I added
“for God’s sake put on all speed.”
In the meantime all the passengers had been notified, told to
dress and to put on their life preservers while the sailors had been
ordered to man the life-boats. When the passengers came on deck
the situation was calmly explained to them together with the hopeful
information that three steamers were bound for us as fast as steam
could carry them for I had got the O K from two others—the Morocco
and the Carlisle.
There was, on the whole, very little excitement now among the
saloon and second-class passengers, and, curiously enough, I
observed that those who had been seasick nigh unto death seemed
to forget their ailment in the face of danger and had their sea-legs on
well enough to look after their own safety. It proves, I think, that
seasickness is largely a matter of an exaggerated imagination plus a
lack of will power.
Before the hatches were opened to let the steerage passengers
out of their hole and on to the lower deck the Captain and one of his
officers took their places on the main deck forward where they could
watch every move the poor frightened mob made. They came helter-
skelter up the hatchways falling all over themselves and everybody
else, but when they saw the Captain and the officer towering above
them each with a brace of horse-pistols leveled at them like young
cannon they eased off a bit their desire to be saved at the expense
of others and the stewards had no further trouble with them.
Just then Perce got awake and hearing the gruff orders of the
officers, the throbbing of the big pumps and the loud and excited talk
of the passengers, he wanted to know the cause of it.
“The ship is sinking! so get up right away,” I exclaimed as evenly
as my voice would let me and working the key for dear life.
“Oh, she is, is she,” he yawned as if it was an every-day
occurrence. There was no excitability in Perce’s makeup.
Well, sir, we kept her afloat until daylight when the Captain
ordered every one to the life-boats, women and children first.
Perce and I stuck to our instruments, keeping the ether busy and
every now and then sending out cheery bulletins to the passengers,
the gist of them all being that help was almost at hand.
I could feel the ship begin to settle and the life-boats loaded to the
gunwales with their cargo of human freight, were quickly lowered into
the running sea. It required great seamanship to do this and even
then one or two of them were capsized.
The Captain suddenly appeared before our window.
“Boys, you have done your duty. Now save yourselves,” and with
that he was gone.
I could feel her nose pointing up in the air and I knew she was
going down stern-end on. It was only a question of minutes.
“Go on, Perce. I’ll stick here.”
“Go on yourself,” he replied; “if any one stays I will.”
I don’t know exactly what happened but something flying through
the air must have hit me, for the next thing I knew I had struck the icy
water and had gone down several fathoms. The sudden ducking
revived me and when I came up I swam for an overcrowded life-
boat. The bos’n pulled me in and a woman’s voice whispered,
“Thank God, he’s saved!”
There on the edge of the horizon I could see the dim outline of a
ship with a great black stream of smoke in her wake and I knew her
for the Arapahoe at last.
“Where’s the little operator?” a man asked me.
The bos’n pointed to the fast sinking ship, the bow end only of
which was out of the water, and said, “There he is, sir!”
And as we looked we saw big brave Captain Stacey and little
heroic Perce with their right hands clasped and with the Captain’s
left hand on Perce’s shoulder, just as two old friends might greet
each other on Broadway or the Strand, who had not met for a long
time.
An instant later the great ship sank from sight leaving a
momentary whirlpool, due to the suction of it, in the water.
The Arapahoe reached us an hour later and stood by and
considering the heavy seaway and the wind, which though it had
somewhat abated was still blowing half a gale, picked up the
survivors and then proceeded on her way.
The passengers made a good deal over me and, since I am only
human, I should have enjoyed their worship immensely, but while I
had done my duty I knew it was Perce who was the real hero and I
told them so.

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