Prepare Organic For Mols
Prepare Organic For Mols
Prepare Organic For Mols
Level-I
Manure
Febrauary, 2024
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
i
IInstruction sheet 7 ..................................................................................................... 47
Information Sheet 7 ..................................................................................................... 49
Self-Check – 7 ................................................................................................ 68
Operation Sheet-4 ......................................................................................................... 69
LAP Test 7 ..................................................................................................... 69
References ................................................................................................................... 71
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Identifying raw materials and additives
Collecting and checking locally available materials
Assessing physical contamination
Using composting technology and methods
Pre-processing raw materials variously into suitable forms
Mixing pre-processed raw materials into suitable feedstock
Separating, collecting and storing crop residue/by-product
Selecting and checking PPE and OHS hazards.
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Identify raw materials and additives
Collect and check locally available materials
Assess physical contamination
Use composting technology and methods
Pre-process raw materials variously into suitable forms
Mix pre-processed raw materials into suitable feedstock
Separate, collect and store crop residue/by-product
Select and check PPE and OHS hazards.
Learning Instructions:
Information Sheet-1
INTRODUCTION
Compost is an organic fertilizer that can be made on the farm at every low cost. The most
important input is farmer‟s labor. Compost is decomposed organic matter, such as crop residues
and animal manure. Most of these ingredients can be easily found around the farm. Compost is
organic material that can be added to soil to help plants grows. Compost is a soil amendment
produced through the metabolism of an organic substrate by aerobic (oxygen-requiring)
microbes under controlled conditions.
Composting is an ancient agricultural technology going back to biblical times that still has
important applications in modern agriculture. Composting is a very old art, and some of its basic
principles have been appreciated and used in practice for centuries. Composting can be carried
out in two ways i.e. aerobically and anaerobically. During aerobic composting aerobic micro-
organisms oxidase organic compounds to Carbon di oxide, Nitrite and Nitrate. Carbon from
organic compounds is used as a source of energy while nitrogen is recycled. Composting
without oxygen results in fermentation. This causes organic compounds to break down by the
action of living anaerobic organisms. As in the aerobic process, these organisms use nitrogen,
phosphorus, and other nutrients in developing cell protoplasm.
1.1. Types of organic fertilizer and their importance
Organic resources can include any material that is derived from living or recently living sources,
such as;crop residues,
a). Crop residues: Residues from most crops are returned directly to the soil during harvesting.
These comprise all items discarded after harvesting and threshing of the produce, like stem,
leaves, husk, peels, sugarcane trash, vegetable waste, orchard leaf litter, processed food waste
and processing wastes.
b). Weeds: Especially seaweed is important manure and is collected after heavy weather and
piled in heaps to dry and rot. Seaweed has been used as a fertilizer since long. For those farmers
who are close to the sea, it can be very useful. Many species are known and it is found in most
seas. Seaweed is a potential fertilizer, which is literally waiting to be picked up. It contains many
trace elements and growth regulating substances, which are highly beneficial to crops. Most
seaweed decays rapidly in the soil to release easily soluble nitrogenous compounds.
c). Forestry Wastes: These also comprise various types of plant products like wood shavings,
peels, saw dust and pulp. All these besides various types of forest leaf litter can be used.
Green manure can either be grown in situ and incorporated in the field or grown elsewhere and
brought in for incorporation in the field to be manured, in which case it is referred to as green-
leaf manuring. Green manures may be:
Plants of grain legumes such as pigeon pea, cowpea, etc.;
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Non-grain legumes, such as Crotalaria, Sesbania, Centrosema, Stylosanthes and
Desmodium &
Perennial woody multipurpose legumes, such as Leucaena leucocephala, Gliricidia
sepium,and Cassia siamea;
Because green manures add whatever they have absorbed from the soil, they in fact recycle soil
nutrients from lower depths to the topsoil besides contributing to soil N through N fixation by the
legume green manure crop.
Green manure crops are often sown and incorporated in the field prior to planting a main crop.
Short-duration legumes can also be used as intercrops along with long-duration crops and used as
green manures before or after picking the pods. After a few months of growth, generally at the
beginning of flowering, the plants are cut and mixed into the soil.
A great variety of animal substances are used as manures. Cattle dung, sheep dung, horse dung,
goat dung, and poultry dropping etc. can be used.
Farmyard manure (FYM)
FYM refers to the bulky organic manure resulting from the naturally decomposed mixture of
dung and urine of farm animals along with the litter (bedding material). Average, well-rotted
FYM contains 0.5–1.0 percent N, 0.15–0.20 percent P2O5 and 0.5–0.6 percent K2O. The desired
C: N ratio in FYM is 15–20:1. In addition to NPK, it may contain about 1500 mg/kg Fe, 7 mg/kg
Mn, 5 mg/kg B, and 20 mg/kg Mo, 10 mg/kg Co, 2800 mg/kg Al, 12 mg/kg Cr and up to 120
mg/kg lead (Pb).
Often, fully or partially air-dried dung is used as FYM. FYMs can be used simply after air drying
or after composting. Grazing animals return them directly to the soil as a natural nutrient supply,
or the dry dung may be collected, stored and used as fuel or again as manure in the desired area.
During storage, organic manure is partly decomposed by fermentation, which also produces
valuable humic substances. Some losses of N as ammonia occur, but these can be reduced by the
addition of about 2-percent water-soluble phosphate.
animal dung: The wastes of larger animals like cattle dung, sheep dung, goat dung, horse dung,
camel dung, donkey dung, etc. are used as sources of organic fertilizers.
Animal slurry
Nutrient concentrations of fermented slurry with 5–10 percent dry matter are of the following
order:
Poultry manure (dropping): In some areas of the country there are available appreciable
quantities of poultry manure mixed with variable amounts of litter. The average recoveries in the
excreta from laying birds of the nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in the food are respectively
about 70, 80, and 75%. The recovery of nitrogen is greater than that from larger animals.
If animal manure is to be applied in crop field, it should be well matured for some time otherwise
it might damage the plants. Composting animal manure makes it a better fertilizer.
Black walnut tree leaves or twigs because releases substances that might be harmful to
plants
Coal or charcoal ash because might contain substances harmful to plants
Dairy products (e.g., butter, milk, sour cream, yogurt) and eggs because create odor
problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
Diseased or insect-ridden plants because diseases or insects might survive and be
transferred back to other plants
Fats, grease, lard, or oils because create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents
and flies
Meat or fish bones and scraps because create odor problems and attract pests such as
rodents and fliesPet wastes (e.g., dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter) because might contain
parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans
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Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides because might kill beneficial
composting organisms
This is achieved by locking these items in secured rooms or wire cages with padlocks
Identifying and reporting malfunctions, faults, wear or damage to tools and equipment
1.4.Working procedure
During preparation of organic fertilizer, some activities can be potentially toxic to human beings
and pollutant environmental conditions. These activities are may be: - attraction of pests,
Maintaining and improving compost product quality is vitally important for ensuring continued
confidence in organic waste recycling industries around the world. One quality criterion of
particular interest from the general public‟s perspective is physical contamination (also known as
foreign matter or inserts content) from such materials as plastic, glass and metal. This
contamination makes “poor quality” compost immediately apparent compared to other quality
criteria that require some form of laboratory analysis for their detection.
The quality of compost products is highly dependent on the quality of the feedstock materials.
Therefore, considerable effort has been made in recent years to educate the public and
stakeholder groups on feedstocks destined, either knowingly or unknowingly, for composting.
Although physical contaminants in composts are largely assessed on a weight basis both
commercially and in research publications, an alternative is surface area based quantification.
Types of contaminations:-
a) Biological contaminants such as pathogens
b) Chemical contaminants such as pesticides or heavy metals
c) Physical contaminants such as:
glass rubble
metals stone and soil
plastics sharps
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1.6. Composting methods
Composting is nature's process of recycling decomposed organic materials into a rich soil known
as compost. Anything that was once living will decompose. Composting technology (CT) is a
bridge between organic waste and soil carbon pool, which also a critical technology on the
sustainable development of agriculture.
Composting is an aerobic method of decomposing organic solid wastes. It can therefore be used
to recycle organic material. The process involves decomposing organic material into a humus-
like material, known as compost, which is a good fertilizer for plants.The composting process
involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria. Organic matter
includes plant materials and some animal manures.
Composting is the most recommended method for recycling food wastes. Composting is a
process that involves biological decomposition of organic matter, under controlled conditions,
into soil conditioner. Aerobic fermentation is the decomposition of organic material in presence
of air.
Types of Composting
Composting Basics
Onsite Composting
Vermicomposting
Aerated (Turned) Windrow Composting
Aerated Static Pile Composting
In-Vessel Composting
In-vessel method involves feeding organic materials into a drum, silo, concrete-lined trench, or
similar equipment. This allows good control of the environmental conditions such as
temperature, moisture, and airflow. The material is mechanically turned or mixed to make sure
the material is aerated.
Open compost is anything organic, a bit, and not really. Dead leaves, lawn clippings, food scraps
(except meat or fat), newspaper, cardboard, and manure are all organic matter and will break
down in your compost pile. Ideally, you want to add a diversity of ingredients. Bins retain some
warmth and moisture and make better compost more quickly, but even an open heap (not
enclosed in a bin) will compost eventually. Any of the compost bins on the market should
produce compost as long as they exclude rain, retain some warmth, allow drainage and let in air.
These wastes are treated chemically and physically to bring them to a uniform characteristic and
convert into appropriate form for its optimum utilization in co-processing. Such waste materials
used for co processing are referred to as Alternative Fuel Resources (AFR).Received liquid
solvents are carried to site in Tankers or barrels and are transferred into the properly designed
storage tanks. Nitrogen blanketing is to be present in the tank to avoid any vapors coming out of
the storage tank to atmosphere.
Composting is a biological process in which biological wastes are stabilized and converted into a
product to be used as a soil conditioner and organic fertilizer. This process depends upon the
activity of microorganisms. To these activities the microorganisms must be provided with a
suitable environment and a source of nutrients that should be present in proper proportions. The
extent to which we supply those two needs and the way in which we do so, determine to a large
degree our influence on the compost process and its optimization.
The major sources of nutrients for composting are organic waste materials. However, it is rare
that a waste material in the condition in which it is available consistently possesses all of the
characteristics essential for efficient composting. To compensate for this deficiency, it is usually
necessary to blend in suitable proportions of another waste or low cost material. For example, in
the U.S., the excessively high moisture content of sewage sludge usually is lowered by blending
a “bulking” agent such as wood chips or sawdust. In Europe, municipal solid wastes often serve
as the bulking agent. For farms, excessively moist manure can be blended with crop residues, or
perhaps with waste from a nearby lumber operation.
Crop residues collection and storage practices were observed to depend on the mechanism of
harvesting the grain from the crops and the type of crop. Small seeded crops such as: teff, wheat
and barley are transported to a threshing ground located in the homestead area where they are
threshed to separate the grain from the straws. The straw is then stored in the form of a heap
around the homestead. The heap is commonly fenced with locally available materials
especiallyCrop residues collection and storage practices were observed to depend on the
mechanism of harvesting the grain from the crops and the type of crop. Small seeded crops such
as: teff, wheat and barley are transported to a threshing ground located in the homestead area
where they are threshed to separate the grain from the straws. The straw is then stored in the
form of a heap around the homestead. The heap is commonly fenced with locally available
materials especially Practice of conserving crop residues.
Farmyard manure should ideally be collected and stored for a while so as to obtain a manure of
high quality. The best result is achieved if the farmyard manure is composted. Manure stored
under anaerobic conditions (e.g. in water logged pits) is of inferior quality.
Collection of farmyard manure is easiest if the animals are kept in stables. For storage, the
manure should be mixed with dry plant material (straw, grass, crop residues, leaves etc.) to
absorb the liquid. Straw that has been cut or mashed by spreading it out on a roadside can absorb
more water than long straw.
Usually, the manure is stored next to the stable, either in heaps or in pits. It can also be stored
within the stable as bedding, provided it is covered with fresh bedding material. In any case, the
farmyard manure should be protected from sun, wind and rain. Water logging, as well as drying
out should be avoided, so as to avoid nutrient losses. The storage site should be impermeable and
have a slight slope. Ideally, a trench collects the liquid from the manure heap and the urine from
the stable. A dam around the heap prevents uncontrolled in- and outflow of urine and water.
Storing manure in pits is particularly suitable for dry areas and dry seasons. Storage in pits
reduces the risk of drying out and the need to water the pile. However, there is greater risk of
Crop residues are the non-economic plant parts that are left in the field after harvest. The harvest
refuses include straws, stubble, Stover and haulms of different crops. Crop remains are also
from thrashing sheds or that are discarded during crop processing. This includes process wastes
like groundnut shell, oil cakes, rice husks and cobs of maize and sorghum. The greatest potential
as a biomass resource appears to be from the field residues of sorghum, maize, soybean, cotton,
sugarcane etc.
There are many reasons to stockpile compostable materials to use later. If your bin or compost
system is full or inaccessible for a time, or if a wealth of material becomes available all at once,
proper storage of these materials can set up the next batch for success. Materials should ideally
be stored in a way that does not create odors, attract vermin or even combust.
Dry Materials
Dry materials, such as bags of leaves, cardboard boxes, wood mulch, piles of sawdust, shredded
paper or bales of straw, often become available seasonally or all at once as a windfall. These
carbon-rich dry materials can be stored for use in compost piles as needed. It‟s a great idea to
have extra “browns” on hand to mix with kitchen waste, manure, grass clippings and other
“greens.”
Keep brown materials dry to avoid them breaking down prematurely while being stored. A tarp
or tightly closed plastic landscape bags work well to protect these materials.
Keeping these materials dry also helps to avoid spontaneous combustion. Store materials away
from homes and other structures and be sure to avoid any potential sparks or flames in the area.
Kitchen waste and rotting produce, fruit peels, eggshells, coffee grounds and other household
waste can be frozen in plastic bags or plastic containers until ready to incorporate into the pile.
This is also a great way to save these items without attracting fruit flies or developing unpleasant
odors.
Manure can be stacked into a simple pile and covered with a tarp to keep it dry and reduce odors
and the prevalence of flies. Fly larvae develop in wet manure. Store manure away from homes
and structures.
Grass clippings can be bagged with mower attachments or raked and bagged up. These clippings
tend to be very wet and mold quickly. Grass clippings should be incorporated into the pile as
soon as possible.
Storing finished compost can be a good way to make sure that there is a constant supply for your
gardens and plants to utilize. After harvesting and screening the compost, you can plan to store it
for a short time or a longer period. The goal is to protect the finished compost from unwanted
fungal growth, nutrient leaching and excess moisture that can cause anerobic conditions, which
kill off the beneficial organisms within the material.
Short term storage (one to three weeks): For this short of a time, you probably won‟t face much
deterioration if storing outdoors in an uncovered pile. For smaller amounts, you may also keep
compost dry by storing it in open bags in a shed or garage, under an overhang, etc. A plastic tote
bin with a loosely filling lid also works well for storing finished compost short term.
A. Tools: -
Water Vacuum cleaner
Boom Bleach
Scrub brush Ammonia
Micro fibber cleaner Oil
B. Procedures
Prepare PPE and wear
Collect tools together
Remove some dirty material properly
Apply oil to prevent rust
Remove rust with a wire brush
Put tools and equipment‟s properly on shelf or store.
Instructions: Given necessary materials, tools and equipment‟s you are required to perform the
following tasks within 4: 00 hours.
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Selecting and cleaning site for compost preparation
Handling feedstock mixtures for composting
Assigning batch numbers and documentation
Preparing compost
Maintaining clean up area
Cleaning processing equipment to avoid contamination
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Select and clean site for compost preparation
Handle feedstock mixtures for composting
Assign batch numbers and documentation
Prepare compost
Maintain clean up area
Clean processing equipment to avoid contamination
Learning Instructions:
1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2. Follow the instructions described below.
3. Read the information written in the information sheets
4. Accomplish the Self-checks
5. Perform Operation Sheets
6. Do the “LAP test”
Choose an open, level area with good drainage. You do not want your compost to sit in standing
water. An area with partial sun or shade is also ideal. Too much sun can dry the pile out, while too
much shade can keep it overly wet. Organisms need free contact with both soil and atmosphere and
suitable environments of warmth and moisture. The pile should not be directly exposed to sun, wind,
rain, nor sited in a low-lying place subject to unnecessary dampness and standing water. Strong sun
not only dries, but also is hostile to micro-organisms.
Feedstocks are the raw ingredients for composting. They are organic materials, usually solid, and
usually in an active state of decomposition. There are four basic ingredients in the compost
pile, nitrogen, carbon, water, and air. Compost Feedstock or “Feedstock” means any decomposable
organic material used in the production of compost or chipped and ground material including, but not
limited to, green wastes, animal material, manure, bio solids and solid waste.For best results, start
building your compost pile by mixing three parts brown materials with one part green material. If
your compost pile looks too wet and smells, add more brown items or aerate more often. If you see it
looks extremely brown and dry, add green items and water to make it slightly moist.
Compost is safe to handle as long as the usual garden hygiene rules are followed:
Keep cuts covered.
Wash hands with soap and running water after handling compost (especially before eating)
Keep anti-tetanus protection up to date.
To make good compost, you need a 50:50 mix of materials that are rich in nitrogen and carbon.
Nitrogen comes from lush, green material such as grass clippings. Carbon comes from brown
material, such as woody stems and cardboard. Since there are many ways of making compost, its
actual composition will vary considerably. While the raw materials going into the compost pile are
important, the value of the final compost depends upon the construction and management of the pile.
There is a vast difference, for instance, between compost from a well-made, well-managed pile and
that from the all-too-common untidy dump or hole in the ground. Also, a well-made pile is agreeable
to work with while a random pile is generally messy and may breed flies and other problems.
Following the general principles below will produce a neat and productive compost pile. Collect
equal amounts of green yard and livestock waste (such as fresh grass clippings and weeds or cow
manure) and brown scraps (such as dead leaves, straw and old hay). Shred large chunks of waste into
smaller sections that are less than about 3 to 4 inches in diameter.
Cold composting is the lazy gardener's method. While a cold compost pile needs both brown and
green materials, you don't have to be as exact with the proportions. Instead of saving the materials up
Depending on the size of compost pile, what put in it, and how tend to it, this process can take three
months to two years. With a Compost Aerator, it's easier to add air to the pile. Aeration gives oxygen-
hungry microbes what they need to break down materials faster. Depending on the size of your
compost pile, what you put in it, and how you tend to it, this process can take three months to two
years. With a Compost Aerator, it's easier to add air to the pile. Aeration gives oxygen-hungry
microbes what they need to break down materials faster. Continuous composting involves one pile
that you can take finished compost from while still adding new waste. Batch composting
involves making a pile all at once and letting it decompose without adding any new waste. "Batch
composting" does exactly that. Rather than adding material continuously to a pile that's already in the
process of decomposing, you save up your raw materials in separate piles until you have enough for
one big batch.
The largest of your piles will ideally be brown materials, such as dry leaves. It can take anything
from three months to a year or two to make compost in a pile. The one- to two-year time frame is for
organic wastes you dump and leave to break down without your help. In general, the more effort you
put in, the quicker you will get compost. When the ingredients you have put in your container have
The most common raw materials used to make compost are yard wastes such as grass clippings,
leaves, weeds, and small pruning‟s from shrubs and trees. Most home garden compost piles and
municipal compost facilities use yard wastes exclusively because of the large volume of materials
available. Compost is ready or finished when it looks, feels and smells like rich, dark earth rather than
rotting vegetables. In other words, it should be dark brown, crumbly and smell like earth. The Florida
Online Composting Center is one of the few sites that offer detailed home tests for the maturity of
compost.
Worm Farm Composting for many, is the most common and preferred choice of composting because
of their capabilities to grow worms, produce compost and compost tea and keep rats out of your
compost. The worms produce castings concentrated with nutrients lower in nitrogen compared to
other composting methods. Compost can be used to improve the soil structure and drainage, as a
mulch to cut down on water loss, and as a fertilizer to improve the soil's fertility. Enriches soil,
helping retain moisture and suppress plant diseases and pests.
Different phases of composting have been classified according to their temperature as:
A. Hot Phase (Mesophilic Phase).
B. Curing Phase (Thermophilic and Hygienization Phase).
C. Cooling or Mesophilic Phase II.
D. Maturation Phase.
The compost heap consists of decomposing organic matter, which decays and leaves behind fertilizer
rich in nutrients, which is perfect for gardens. A compost heap is generally a pile of brown and green
matter. It is a great way to reduce food wastage, and it helps in saving the environment. The compost
heap consists of decomposing organic matter, which decays and leaves behind fertilizer rich in
nutrients, which is perfect for gardens. You can use a compost heap to recycle all your kitchen and
garden waste into rich, organic compost that's great for the soil and plants.
A pit made to generate manures and fertile substances by the process of dumping the decaying
biodegradable substances is known as a compost pit. Peels of vegetables and fruits, kitchen wastes,
and rotten veggies are used to make manure in a compost pit. Enriches soil, helping retain moisture
and suppress plant diseases and pests.
A compost pile that is too dry will fail to decompose. Since there is no bacterial activity, there will
be no heat. Make sure your pile has adequate moisture. The simplest way to check this is to reach
your hand into the pile and squeeze. The pit should be about 1 m deep, 1.5-2 m wide, and of a
suitable length. The material brought from the cattle shed is spread in the pit in even layers of 10-15
cm. Slurry made from 4.5 kg of dung, 3.5 kg of urine-earth and 4.5 kg of inoculum from a 15-day-old
composting pit is spread on each layer.
How to Compost
Start your compost pile on bare earth.
Lay twigs or straw first, a few inches deep.
Add compost materials in layers, alternating moist and dry.
Add manure, green manure (clover, buckwheat, wheatgrass, grass clippings) or any nitrogen source.
Keep compost moist.
Labelling or using a label: - is describing someone or something in a word or short phrase. For
example, the label "criminal" may be used to describe someone who has broken a law. Labelling
theory is a theory in sociology which ascribes labelling of people to control and identification of
deviant behavior.
Date of preparation
Materials
Labor require
Who is prepared?
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Labor cost
Place of preparation and etc.
It‟s a barrel that can be rotated or turned. Often made from recycled plastics, the barrel is filled with
organic yard and kitchen wastes. The composting process, contained within the barrel, is activated
with commercial starters, manure, already finished compost, garden soil or nothing at all. When
rotate the drum of a compost tumbler, the waste 'tumbles' around, and introducing air pockets to the
decomposing matter inside. These air pockets provide oxygen for the microorganisms that help break
down food waste and other organics, enabling them to do their job.
Under ideal conditions, convert waste to finished home compost in as little as three weeks in a sealed
compost tumbler. Outdoor temperature, time of year, and the correct balance of carbon and nitrogen
matter are factors that influence the speed of composting. There are various compost tumblers on the
market, so emptying one is directly related to the style of tumbler you have. For most models, the
simplest method for emptying is to tilt the bin so that the opening faces the ground, then, using a
spade or rake, pull the contents out and downwards.
It retains nutrients and releases them to the plants slowly over a longer period.
It contains the main nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), which become
available to the plants after decomposition.
Reduce fertilizer requirements
Improve water infiltration and drought tolerance
Reduce soil compaction and crusting
Improve root growth and yields
Increase microbial and earthworm populations in soil
Protect plants from disease
Slowly release nutrients to plants
Improve nutrient-holding capacity
Increase ease of cultivation
If you have a small bin indoors that you use to collect kitchen waste, keep it in the freezer to maintain
sanitary conditions and reduce odors. Even so, you should wash it regularly, just as you would wash
dishes. For washing a compost bin for curbside pickup, you‟ll need to get out the hose and some
natural cleaners. Instead of soap, which can damage your local ecosystem, use vinegar, lemon, and
baking soda to sanitize and de-stink the bin. Some preventative measures will help keep your
curbside compost bin cleaner longer. You can line it with newspaper and sprinkle that with baking
soda to absorb moisture and odors. Also, look for compostable bags to hold scraps. Make sure your
waste pickup service accepts the bags first. If you make your own compost, a full cleaning is not
necessary very often. What you need to focus on instead is cleaning out the finished compost.
Pre-Clean. The first stage of cleaning is to remove loose debris and substances from the
contaminated surface you're cleaning. ...
Main Cleaning: - This involves using hot water and a detergent.
Disinfection cleaning :- works by using chemicals to kill germs on equipment‟s
Final Rinse cleaning: - is a specially formulated mild acid solution with a pH of 2.5 - 3.0 that is
used as the final step in the wet cleaning process.
Drying cleaning: - very similar to regular home laundering, but a liquid solvent is used to clean
your clothes instead of water and detergent.
Name………………………………. ID……………………………..
Date…………………………………….
Instructions: Depend on the given materials and tools you are prepare to perform the following
tasks within 3:00 hour. The project is expected from each student to do it.
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Monitoring composting batch by observation
Maintaining processing and operations records
Observing, reporting and taking remedial action
Collecting and storing mature compost
Completing composting operations
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Monitore composting batch by observation
Maintain processing and operations records
Observe, reporting and taking remedial action
Collect and storing mature compost
Complete composting operations
Learning Instructions:
1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2. Follow the instructions described below.
3. Read the information written in the information Sheets
4. Accomplish the Self-checks
5. Perform Operation Sheets
6. Do the “LAP test”
Monitoring compost piles is done for several reasons. Monitoring provides the composter with
insight into activity in the compost pile, and this information in turn guides management choices
regarding the specific piles you are monitoring, as well as how you make and manage compost on a
going basis. As composting proceeds, a number of changes occur in its physical, chemical, and
biological characteristics. Monitoring some of these variables will help you to assess the status of
your compost and to compare the progress of systems with different initial conditions or ingredients.
The simplest test is to put your compost in a couple of pots and plant some radish seeds in the
compost. If 3/4 or more of the seed sprout and grow into radishes, then your compost is ready to use
in any application. Radishes are used because they germinate (sprout) and mature quickly. A good
way to evaluate the effect of compost on the fertility of a soil is to obtain a soil test after applying
compost. The soil test measures available plant nutrients, soil pH, and heavy metal accumulation in
the soil.
During the composting process, different microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) decompose the
organic matter. The microorganisms break down the organic food items to produce a simpler
substance called compost. It is important to note that composting needs oxygen, heat and water to be
successful. Monitoring compost piles is done for several reasons. Monitoring provides the composter
with insight into activity in the compost pile, and this information in turn guides management
choices regarding the specific piles you are monitoring, as well as how you make and manage
compost on an going basis. Organic wastes, such as food waste and yard waste, make up 25 to 50%
of what people throw away. While you may not be able to compost all of the organic waste you
generate, composting can significantly cut down on your overall tras
The two activities of “operation” and “maintenance” are very different in nature. Operation refers
to the direct access to the system by the user, to the activities of any operational, and to the rules or
by-laws, which may be devised Maintenance, on the other hand, is to do with the technical
activities, planned or reactive, which are needed to keep the system working. Maintenance requires
skills, tools and spare parts.
The composting process is carried out by a diverse population of predominantly aerobic micro-
organisms that decompose organic material in order to grow and reproduce. Composting is the
natural process of recycling organic matter, such as leaves and food scraps, into a valuable
fertilizer that can enrich soil and plants. Compost pile should be moist, but not soggy. Most of
water will come from rain, as well as the moisture in green materials, but may need to water the
pile on occasion. If the pile gets too wet, turn it more frequently to dry it, or add more brown
materials to soak up excess moisture. Add water to the compost pile as needed to keep the
materials damp but not saturated. Rain adds moisture to the pile, but may need to add water during
dry periods. Turn the pile more frequently or add more dry, brown materials if the pile becomes
too wet.
A solution to the problem of soil contamination is soil remediation. Soil remediation is a way of
purifying and revitalizing the soil. It is the process of removing contaminants in order to protect
both the health of the population and the environment. Furthermore, the addition of mature
compost to contaminated soil accelerates plant and microbial degradation of organic contaminants
and improves plant growth and establishment in toxic soils. Take a handful of compost, squeeze it
firmly and then open the fist. If the compost is too dry, the compost will then fall apart. If the
moisture content is normal, then compost stays together. Organic matter in compost improves soil
structure and water holding capacity. C: N ratio is used as a measure of stability. A ratio of less
than 25 likely indicates s compost (the composting process is finished) from which nitrogen will be
more available as mineral nitrogen (nitrate and ammonium).
Instruction sheet 2
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following
content coverage and topics:
Collecting and separating earthworms
Selecting vermicompost method
Preparing worm feed stock
Cleaning processing equipment
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page. Specifically,
upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Collect and separate earthworms
Selecte vermicompost method
Prepare worm feed stock
Clean processing equipment
Learning Instructions:
Information Sheet-4
INTRODUCTION
Vermicomposting is a composting technique, which turns the organic debris into a humus-
like product by employing earthworms. “Vermicompost” is the compost produced by the
vermicomposting unit. The vermicompost merely refers to the earthworm‟s excrement, which
provides essential nutrients, aeration, porosity, structure, fertility and water-holding capacity to the
soil and plant body. a pro- cess of scientifically decomposing agricultural, municipality, and
industrial wastes into nutrient enriched compost by earthworms.. Therefore, vermicompost use is
more economical than synthetic organic fertilizer.
Firstly, observe the earthworm castings over the soil surface. Then, make a solution containing 500 g
of jaggery, 500 g of cow dung and 2 l of water. After that, sprinkle the above solution over the soil
surface about an area of 1m X 1m. Cover with straw lumps, then with the old jute bag, and keep
sprinkling the solution for about 20-30 days. Finally, we can collect the earthworms after their
aggregation towards the spot. Locally available earthworms are also used for vermicomposting but
their mode of feeding is very slow and the earthworm which lives below the soil is also not suitable
for vermicompost production. The Red worms (Eisenia foetida) and African earthworm (Eudrillus
engenae) are promising worms used for vermicompost production. All the two worms can be mixed
together for vermicompost production.
Bed method : Composting is done on the pucca / kachcha floor by making be (6x2x2 feet size) of
organic mixture. This method is easy to maintain and to practice (Fig.1).
Pit method: Composting is done in the cemented pits of size 5x5x3 feet. The unit is covered with
thatch grass or any other locally available materials. This method is not preferred due to poor
aeration, water logging at bottom, and more cost of production (fig.2)
Earthworms are often termed as “Bio-engineers” because of their unique ability to convert organic
wastes into dark brown nutrient rich compost materials. We use these worms along with some easy-
available inputs to produce the vermicompost. This vermicompost can be prepared in various
techniques, among all those two most common methods are: bed and pit methods.
Bed method is easy to prepare and maintain throughout the process as here com- posting is done on
Name_____________________sign: ________________
Time started: _______________Time finished____________
Instructions: Given necessary materials, tools and equipment‟s you are required to perform the
within 3: 00 hours.
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Selecting and cleaning site for Vermicompost preparation
Releasing Earth worms over the mixture and cover the compost mixture
Feeding and watering Worm
Covering the tank with a thatch roof
Maintaining Proper moisture and temperature
Cleaning equipment‟s as required
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Select and clean site for Vermicompost preparation
Release Earth worms over the mixture and cover the compost mixture
Feed and water Worm is performed according to the standard
Cover the tank with a thatch roof
Maintain Proper moisture and temperature
Clean Equipment‟s as required
Learning Instructions:
1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2. Follow the instructions described below.
3. Read the information written in the information Sheets
4. Accomplish the Self-checks
5. Perform Operation Sheets
6. Do the “LAP test”
5.1. Selecting and cleaning bedding materials for vermin compost preparation
Bedding: Bedding is any material that provides the worms with a relatively stable habitat. This
habitat must have the following characteristics: High absorbency- Worms breathe through their skins
and therefore must have a moist environment in which to live. If a worm‟s skin dries out, it dies. The
bedding must be able to absorb and retain water fairly well if the worms are to thrive. Good bulking
potential- If the material is too dense to begin with, or packs too tightly, then the flow of air is
reduced or eliminated. Worms require oxygen to live, just as we do. The vermibed should be 75cm-
90cm in thickness with adequate drainage facilities to drain out excess water. The entire bed should
be in uniform height to ensure equal production. The width of the bed should not be more than 1.5m
so that the centre of the bed can be easily reached. Different materials affect the overall porosity of
the bedding through a variety of factors, including the range of particle size and shape, the texture,
and the strength and rigidity of its structure. Low protein and/or nitrogen content (high C:N ratio)-
Although the worms do consume their bedding as it breaks down, it is very important that this be a
slow process. High protein/nitrogen levels can result in rapid degradation and its associated heating,
creating inhospitable, often fatal, conditions. Heating can occur safely in the food layers of the
vermiculture or vermicomposting system, but not in the bedding.
Rural areas with predominance of agriculture, suburbs of cities and peri urban villages are
considered ideal locations for setting up of vermicomposting units on a larger scale from the view
point of availability of raw material and marketing of the produce. As use of the compost is said to
have ameliorative effect more particularly on fruit, vegetable, plantation and ornamental crops,
vermi- composting units may be located in areas with concentration of fruit and vegetable growers
and floriculture units. Further, the nearness to a commercial dairy unit or large concentration of
cattle population will have an added advantage of cheap raw material i.e. cow dung
Cattle dung (except pig, poultry and goat), farm wastes, crop residues, vegetable market waste,
flower market waste, agro industrial waste, fruit market waste and all other bio degradable waste are
suitable for vermicompost production. The cattle dung should be dried in open sunlight before used
for vermicompost production. All other waste should be predigested with cow dung for twenty days
before put into vermibed for composting.
Initial pre-composting phase: The organic waste is pre-composted for about 15days before
being fed to earthworms. During this phase, readily decomposable compounds are degraded and
the potential volatile substances are eliminated which may be toxic to earthworms. Pre-
composting the feedstock decreases the amount of energy contained within the material, so that
heating doesn't take occur within the worm system. Feedstock which are pre-composted for 10-14
days retain sufficient nutrition for the worms, but not so much energy that they are able to
generate heat (Nair, et al, 2006)
Mesophilic phase: The predigested waste material should be mixed with 30% cattle dung either
by weight or volume. The mixed waste is placed into the tub / container up to brim. The moisture
level should be maintained at 60%. If necessity arises, water should be sprinkled over the bed
rather than pouring the water. Over this material, the selected earthworm is placed uniformly. For
one-meter length, one-meter breadth and 0.5-meter height, 1 kg of worm (1000 Nos.) is required.
During this phase, earthworms, through their characteristic functions of breaking up organic
matter, combine it with the soil particles and enhance microbial activities and condition organic
waste materials for the formation of organic manures.
Maturing and stabilization phase: In the vermicomposting process, the action of the
earthworms is both physical/mechanical and biochemical. Physical participation in degrading the
organic substances results in fragmentation, thereby increasing the surface area for further
microbial colonization. Biochemical changes in organic matter decomposition are carried out
through enzymatic digestion, enrichment by nitrogen excrement and transport of organic and
Stocking density refers to the initial weight of worm biomass per unit area of bedding. For
instance, if you started with 5 kg of worms and put them in a bin with a surface area of 2 m2, then
your initial stocking density would be 2.5 kg/m2. Starting with a population density less than this
will delay the onset of rapid reproduction and, at very low densities, may even stop it completely.
It seems that worms need a certain density in order to have a reasonable chance of running into
each other and reproducing frequently. At lower densities, they just don‟t find each other as often
as the typical worm grower would like.
Keep cuts covered.Wash hands with soap and running water after handling compost (especially
before eating)Keep anti-tetanus protection up to date.
Overheating – particularly in outdoor summer systems with poor ventilation (dark plastic bins in
direct sunlight are a definite NO NO!!). You can also overheat by adding too much material at
once (especially when using larger systems).
Cold Temps – some tropical species (such as Blue Worms and African Nightcrawlers) will start
to die off as temps drop below ~10 C (50 F) or so. Red Worms and European Nightcrawlers are
quite cold-hardy but should not be allowed to reach the freezing mark. Even if your worms are
able to survive the cold, you should realize that the process itself can slow down a LOT once
temps start to dip.
Inorganic salts and harsh chemicals – a worm‟s skin is a highly sensitive (and vitally
important) organ. Avoid use of bagged “potting soils” (since often come with starter fertilizer),
urine soaked manure/bedding (leave it exposed to elements for awhile), and any materials
containing pesticide residues or other harsh chemicals in general. Even wood ash from your
fireplace can potentially cause trouble since it forms potassium hydroxide (“lye”) when mixed
with water.
Sunlight – careful with excessive handling of worms (outdoors) on hot, sunny, summer day
Predators – typically only a potential issue with outdoor systems – primarily those with direct
contact with the soil, or at least those offering “easy access” options. Some examples include:
moles, shrews, robins, and predatory flatworms (not all of these will be present in all locations). I
myself have had to deal with Robins and shrews – while they can both be a bit frustrating, they
certainly haven‟t really had a significant impact on my outdoor worm population. protect the
compost from rainwater and direct sunshine covering the tank with a thatch roof to prevent the
entry of pests and
The ideal moisture-content range for materials in conventional composting systems is 45-60%
(Rink et al, 1992). In contrast, the ideal moisture-content range for vermicomposting or
vermiculture processes is 70-90%. Within this broad range, researchers have found slightly
different optimums: Dominguez and Edwards (1997) found the 80-90% range to be best, with 85%
optimum, while Nova Scotia researchers found that 75-80% moisture contents produced the best
growth and reproductive response (GEORG, 2004). Both of these studies found that average worm
weight increased with moisture content (among other variables), which suggests that vermiculture
operations designed to produce live poultry feed or bait worms (where individual worm size
matters) might want to keep moisture contents above 80%, while vermicomposting operations
could operate in the less mucky 70-80% range.
Low temperatures. Eisenia can survive in temperatures as low as 0oC, but they don‟t reproduce at
single-digit temperatures and they don‟t consume as much food. It is generally considered
necessary to keep the temperatures above 10oC (minimum) and preferably 15 oC for
Worms‟s response to temperature differentials. Compost worms will redistribute themselves within
piles, beds or windrows according to temperature gradients. In outdoor composting windrows in
wintertime, where internal heat from decomposition is in contrast to frigid external temperatures,
the worms will be found in a relatively narrow band at a depth where the temperature is close to
optimum. They will also be found in much greater numbers on the south- facing side of windrows
in the winter and on the opposite side in the summer.
Effectively cleaning working area does not merely involve wiping a damp cloth over surfaces.
Correct cleaning procedures are required to minimize hygiene problems. This is why cleaning
agents, detergent sand/or chemicals, are used extensively.
Name………………………………. ID……………………………..
Date…………………………………….
Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Depend on the given materials and tools you are prepare to perform the following tasks
within 3:00 hour. The project is expected from each student to do it.
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Separating Earthworm and solid waste
Checking Quality of Vermicompost
Sieving Vermicompost to ensure the elimination of any plant and animal remnants.
Transferring Vermicompost into the laminated over sacs to avoid moisture loss
labeling and packing Vermicompost
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
separate Earthworm and solid waste
check Quality of Vermicompost
Sieve The Vermicompost to ensure the elimination of any plant and animal remnants.
transferee Vermicompost into the laminated over sacs to avoid moisture loss
label and pack The Vermicompost
Learning Instructions:
1) Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2) Follow the instructions described below.
3) Read the information written in the information Sheets
4) Accomplish the Self-checks
5) Perform Operation Sheets
6) Do the “LAP test”
Once vermicomposted, the volume of material will be much reduced, possibly down to 10% of its
original volume. The finished material will brown and earthy-like and the original bedding will no
longer recognizable. The vermicompost might require post-screening, especially if coarse green waste
was incorporated into the bedding, as this takes longer to break down. This may be carried out
manually on a pilot scale, The methods described are best suited to Smaller-scale containerized systems
or pilot operations designed to breed initial worm populations. Once the system is expanded, it will be
necessary to use a commercial-scale mesh screener.
a. Light Separation
Earthworms are very sensitive to light and this separation method utilises this nature and the tendency
to burrow beneath the surface in order to escape light sources. This leaves a harvest of worm castings
and un-hatched capsules. These capsules will be lost, as the hatchlings will not survive in garden soil,
but the remaining worms quickly replace them. The castings should be stored for a week or two
before use as a fertilizer.
b. Sideways Separation
The finished material is moved to one side, while the fresh bedding mixed with organic waste is
placed alongside. This simple method produces castings, but no extra worms. Continue feeding
kitchen scraps into the container for up to four months. A second container should be started and
primed with fresh bedding and a supply of worms from the first box., the second can be prepared
about a month earlier, adding some worms to it every time the first container is fed.
This method of harvesting vermicompost is based on earthworms‟ ability to detect sources of food.
They also have the habit of abandoning the pile exhausted of food and moving towards a more
palatable source. There are many modifications of the technique, but the basic principle is the same:
provide fresh, or otherwise more palatable food to cause the migration of earthworms from the ripe
pile to the new food source.
One technique involves constructing a new enclosure adjacent to the one with ripe compost in such a
way that the two enclosures share a common boundary. The new enclosure is filled with fresh
vermicomposting substrates. When it is ready to be stocked with earthworms, the common boundary,
which may consist of hollow blocks, is then removed. This allows the migration of earthworms
toward new food. Free of earthworms, the vermicompost should be easy to harvest with the use of a
shovel.If there are undecomposed substrates, like wood chips and stem segments which are hard to
decompose, they are separated manually. However, the migration of earthworms can take several
days to complete.
Try to reject cabbage also and segments of ripe fruit of jackfruit after the edible parts have been
removed. First, wrap the earthworm food with nylon netting with holes sufficient to allow passage of
earthworms. Fasten to a plastic twine or small rope or wire. Then insert the balled food into the pile
leaving some segment of the twine on top.
To avoid sunlight, the harvested vermicompost should be stored in dark and cool place. Loss of
moisture and nutrient content will take place in presence of sunlight. One important thing is that
the harvested material is openly stored rather than packed in over sac. Packing should be done at
the time of selling. If it is stored in open place, periodically sprinkling of water may be done to
maintain moisture level beneficial microbial activities. Vermicompost can be stored for 1 year
without loss of its quality, if the moisture is maintained at 40 per cent level.While packaging, sieve
the vermicompost to ensure the elimination of any plant and animal remnants. Then, transfer the
vermicompost into the laminated over sacs to avoid moisture loss and label it with the brand‟s
name, nutritive facts, direction for use, market price etc.
6.1.Techniques/Procedures/
A. Raw materials organic green wastes like waste coming from farms, kitchen, forest Maize stalk
Green vegetation Dry vegetation
B.Tools, raw materials and equipment
Meter .Pegs, plastic sheet,
Animal dung or slurry Ash
Timber .Water cane
. Spade Water
.Shovel .Appropriate PPE etc.
.Digging hoes Plastic cover
C. Procedures
Precautions: all activities are performed according to OHS requirements
Name………………………………. ID……………………………..
Date…………………………………….
Instructions: Depending on the given materials and tools you are prepare to perform the following
tasks within 3:00 hour. The project is expected from each student.
IInstruction sheet 7
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
Determining fundamental characteristics of compost quality
Inspecting and assessing finished compost
Observing and reporting faults or variations
Processing further non-compliant product
Confirming compliance of compost
Completing batch documentation
Reporting work outcomes.
Noting feedback
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to:
Determine fundamental characteristics of compost quality
Inspect and assess finished compost
Observing and reporting faults or variations
Process further non-compliant product
Confirm compliance of compost.
Complete batch documentation
Report work outcomes.
Learning Instructions:
Dry compost will be light and dusty and Moisture content lower than 30% will indicate dry
compost and higher than 60% is wet compost will be heavy and clumpy. Take a handful of
compost, squeeze it firmly and then open the fist. If the compost is too dry, the compost will then
fall apart. If the moisture content is normal, then compost stays together.
Inspection Parameters:-
Carbon- to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio,
Organic matter content,
Salinity, total nitrogen,
Total phosphorus,
Stability, phytotoxicity, pH,
Maturity, boron, chloride, sodium, particle sizes, heavy metal concentration, and pathogen
concentrations are factors to evaluate when you are comparing available.
The composting process is greatly affected by environment factors (temperature, moisture content,
pH, and aeration). Moisture content is an essential parameter that influences the changes in
physical, chemical, and biological properties of waste materials during the advancement of
decomposition of organic matter.
Assessments with own senses
Observations of compost with own senses (eyes, nose, and touch) can provide information about
the compost quality. These observations cannot replace chemical analyses or plant tests, but they
can complement them.
B. Odors of Compost.
Always smells but the odors can be more or less intensive and more or less agreeable depending
on the management process. The odor of a compost depends on its maturity and on the process
management. Young composts containing nitrogen-rich materials smell of ammonia, and will be
transformed during the maturation processes into a product with the smell of forest soil.
Disagreeable odors such as that of “rotten eggs” or butyric acid are typical for poorly controlled
The ammonium present in the pile would therefore be lost as ammonia, leading to a shortage of
N for the microorganisms and insufficient decomposition, even when water is available. When
such fibrous compost is applied, there is risk of nitrogen immobilization in the soil. The wood
breaking test also allows the characterization of the degree of maturity of the compost and the
risk of nitrogen immobilization in the field after its use.
Degradation of wood starts after the high temperature phase. Hence, we observe only minor
degradation of wood in young compost, and clearly attacked wood in mature compost. If relatively
raw wood is applied to a field soil, the microorganisms responsible for its degradation will
immobilize the available nitrogen in the soil in order to perform the degradation. This nitrogen is
therefore temporarily unavailable to the plants which inhibit their growth.
7.3.Processing further non-compliant product
The three basic steps when it comes to controlling nonconformity are identifying the problem or
violation, recording it, and taking the appropriate action to put a stop to it. In order to be able to
properly deal with the issue that is at hand, the nonconformity must first be identified.
Product Quality Compliance is a system to ensure that products adhere to industry standards. It
gives consumers peace of mind that products are safe for use. Having such a system is proof of a
brand‟s commitment to tangible quality and is a key element in converting satisfied customers into
loyal followers. Without it, a tiny defect spotted by the end-user could result in unnecessary costs,
or worst.
Means the documents and other records that are produced in connection with the manufacture of a
composting batch and/or lot. Batch Documentation includes master manufacturing formula, a
listing of raw materials and corresponding specifications, packaging and storage instructions,
testing requirements and exception documentation, such as deviations, failures, out-of-
specification investigation reports, non-conforming material reports and additional documentation
which may have been generated and/or processed as part of the production record of the Batch.
B. Procedures: -
Collect tools together
Collect raw materials and chop in a required size.
Remove contaminant from raw materials.
Mix raw materials
Fill mixed raw materials in to batch
Cover the batch.
Instructions: Work bath compost depends on given necessary, tools and materials you are
required to perform the following tasks within 3: 00 hours.
Ministry of Labor and Skills and Ministry of Agriculture to extend thanks and appreciation
to the many representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated
their time and expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials
(TTLM).