EP20752494NWB1
EP20752494NWB1
EP20752494NWB1
*EP003920882B1*
(11) EP 3 920 882 B1
(12) EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION
(45) Date of publication and mention (51) International Patent Classification (IPC):
of the grant of the patent: A61K 8/81 (2006.01) A61K 8/06 (2006.01)
01.03.2023 Bulletin 2023/09 A61Q 13/00 (2006.01) A61K 8/34 (2006.01)
Note: Within nine months of the publication of the mention of the grant of the European patent in the European Patent
Bulletin, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to that patent, in accordance with the
Implementing Regulations. Notice of opposition shall not be deemed to have been filed until the opposition fee has been
paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent Convention).
Description
5 [0001] The present invention is in the field of fragrance compositions, and more specifically relates to liquid, aqueous
perfume compositions.
Background
10 [0002] The overwhelming majority of liquid perfume compositions use alcohol, typically ethanol, as a solubilizer for
aromatic ingredients that are usually included in the composition in the form of fragrant oils. Products with concentrations
of ethanol between 50 and 95% by volume are common. The use of ethanol solubilizer renders a transparent perfume
composition. Nevertheless, the use of ethanol has its drawbacks. These include, but are not be limited to, acute contact
dermatitis. Furthermore, ethanol is classified as a volatile organic compound (VOC). For some time, there has been an
15 effort to reduce the level of VOC’s in the ambient environment. Other drawbacks are apparent in cultures where the use
of alcohol is strictly regulated or prohibited on religious grounds.
[0003] There have been efforts to reduce or eliminate alcohol from perfume products. For example, water-based
perfume products are known, but these have not gained widespread acceptance for reasons related to performance
and aesthetics. One problem is that perfuming ingredients tend to be insoluble in water due to their hydrophobic nature.
20 Attempts to address this by forming emulsion compositions have been tried. See, for example, US4,803,195;
US5,374,614; US6,403,109; US6,774,101; US2003/0186836; US2004/0209795; US7,226,901; US 7,655,613;
US7,846,889; US 8,343,521; US9,301,910. However, many emulsion perfume compositions have their own drawbacks.
For example, the use of too much surfactant can lead to skin irritation, a tacky feel, and alter the perception of the
aromatic ingredients. This is especially true for microemulsion compositions, which use a relatively high concentration
25 of surfactant, but macroemulsions and nanoemulsions may also suffer from the same problem. As a result, water-based
perfume compositions have, in general, not provided the same intensity, duration and range as traditional ethanol based
fragrances. Regarding loss of intensity, we mean that the aroma of a water-based fragrance tends to be less potent,
than a traditional perfume. Regarding decreased duration, we mean that water-based perfume compositions are per-
ceptible to the human nose for a significantly shorter time than a traditional ethanol-based perfume composition. Range,
30 as used herein, is sometimes referred to as olfactive linearity. Regarding loss of range, we mean that following application
to the skin or other surface, the blend of aromatic notes given off by aqueous-based perfume compositions is not
maintained, even when some fragrance is still perceptible. Thus, there is still a need for an aqueous-based perfume
composition having comparatively little ethanol, yet preserving aromatic integrity (intensity, duration and range). The
present invention provides such compositions in emulsion form. To the best of our knowledge, the prior art does not
35 disclose or suggest the compositions of present invention, specifically water-based perfume compositions comprising
4.5% to 18.5% of acylates/VA copolymer and 0.25% to 1.0% of acrylates copolymer by weight, as disclosed herein. Nor
does it disclose ratios of these materials as disclosed herein, nor their usefulness in preserving the performance of
perfume compositions.
40 Summary
[0004] Reduced-ethanol perfume compositions according to the invention comprise specific combinations of acη
latesΛ/A copolymer and acrylates copolymer in an aqueous base or delivery vehicle. The perfume compositions according
to the invention are easy to manufacture and provide an aqueous perfume composition that preserves aromatic integrity
45 (intensity, duration and range), even in emulsion form. The most advantageous use of compositions of the invention are
as parfums, eau de parfums, eau de toilettes, and colognes. However, the invention may also find use in many types
of fragranced products, such as those used on the skin and hair of humans or animals, in cleaning products of all types,
in air deodorizers, air fresheners, and more.
50 Detailed Description
[0005] Except in operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this
description indicating amounts or ratios of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use
are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All amounts are presented as percentages by weight of the final
55 composition, unless otherwise specified.
[0006] Throughout the present specification, "film former" or the like refers to a polymer that leaves a film on the
substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed
into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
2
EP 3 920 882 B1
[0007] "Comprise" means that a list of elements may not be limited to those explicitly recited.
[0008] By "emulsion" we mean a stable dispersion of a discontinuous (or internal) phase in a continuous (or external)
phase (oil in water or water in oil), facilitated by one or more surfactants. For clarity, we provide definitions of three main
types of emulsions that are common in the personal care field.
5 [0009] A macroemulsion (usually called simply an "emulsion") is an anisotropic, two-phase system that is kinetically
stable, but thermodynamically unstable, which means they require high energy input for the formation of droplets that
disperse in the continuous phase. Regarding the characteristic sizes of the droplets in the internal phase, the literature
proposes many definitions. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) recommends 10nm - 100mm.
These droplet structures naturally degrade with time by coalescing and separating from the continuous phase, but
10 surfactants, which decrease surface tension at the oil-water interface, can lengthen the life of a macroemulsion.
[0010] Microemulsions (sometimes called micellar emulsions) are significantly different from macroemulsions. Micro-
emulsions are isotropic, one-phase systems of water, oil and relatively high concentrations of surfactants. Microemulsions
are thermodynamically stable, which means that they form spontaneously with simple, low energy mixing. Internal phase
structures are dynamic, constantly changing shape, but the range of sizes is typically about 1nm - 100nm (IUPAC).
15 Owing to this small particle size, microemulsions are generally translucent.
[0011] Still different are nanoemulsions (also known as miniemulsions or submicron emulsions). Like macroemulsions,
nanoemulsions are two-phase systems in which droplets of the discontinuous phase are dispersed in the continuous
phase. However, the mean droplet size of nanoemulsions can range from 50nm to 1000nm (IUPAC) in diameter. Na-
noemulsions at the lower end of this range are translucent, because the droplet size is below the wavelength of visible
20 light. Nanoemulsions are kinematically stable, but thermodynamically unstable, and must be held together by surfactants.
They may be formed by high-energy emulsification methods, such as shearing with a homogenizer or ultrasound.
Alternatively, phase inversion methods exist which require very little energy.
Water
25
[0012] Compositions of the invention comprise water, typically from 30% to 70% of water by weight of the total com-
position, while 50% to 60% is expected to be common. This amount of water is that from all sources, such as that in
Vinysol 2140L and Daitosol 5000AD, discussed below.
30 Acrylates/VA Copolymer
[0013] A main ingredient of the invention is acrylates/VA copolymer (INCI name), C15H26O4, also known as ethenyl
acetate or 2-ethylhexyl prop-2-enoate (IUPAC names); CAS number 25067-02-1. For detailed information, see PubChem
Compound Database; CID=168269.
35
40
[0014] In cosmetics, this material often functions as a binder, film former, adhesive and/or hair fixative. When deployed
in aqueous cosmetic systems acrylates/VA copolymer can impart a film on the skin or hair. The pure acrylatesNA
45 copolymer film features a temperature dependence, such that a water rinse of about 40°C or more will degrade the film,
and allow it to be removed from a surface, while retaining its integrity at temperatures at or below normal skin temperature
(i.e. 36.5 - 37.5°C).
[0015] Perfume compositions of the invention typically comprise 4.5% to 18.5% of acηlatesΛ/A copolymer by total
weight of the composition, for example 7% to 16%, for example 9% to 14% by total weight of the composition.
50 [0016] AcrylatesNA copolymer is commercially available, for example, as Vinysol 2140L from Daido Chemical Corp.
Vinysol 2140L is a 46.6% aqueous mixture of acηlatesΛ/A copolymer. Therefore, when using Vinysol 2140L, in order
to achieve the concentrations of acrylates/VA copolymer noted above, the concentration of Vinysol 2140L should be
about 10% to 40%, for example 15% - 35%, for example 20% - 30% by total weight of the composition. Vinysol 2140L
is reported to have a pH of 4.5, a viscosity of 2,000 mPa-s, a calculated glass transition temperature (Tg) of - 9°C, while
55 the film exhibits a break elongation of 1,200%, and a break strength of 1.2MPa (when spread to a thickness 0.1mm).
3
EP 3 920 882 B1
Acrylates Copolymer
[0017] Another main ingredient of the invention is an acrylates polymer that has a lower Tg than acrylates/VA copolymer.
In general, a lower Tg provides more flexibility to the resulting film. In the present invention, a second main ingredient
5 is acrylates copolymer, C14H22O6, also known as ethyl prop-2-enoate; methyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate or 2-methylprop-
2-enoic acid (IUPAC names); CAS number 25133-97-5. For detailed information, see PubChem Compound Database;
CID=168299. In various types of cosmetic formulations, acrylates copolymer has a wide variety of uses including as film
formers, hair fixatives, binders, and suspending agents, viscosity enhancers, antistatic agents and adhesives. At con-
centrations discussed herein, the combination of acrylates/VA copolymer and acrylates copolymer form a useful water-
10 soluble complex that dries to a hydrophobic film when applied to a surface.
[0018] In the present invention, useful concentrations of acrylates copolymer are from 0.25% to 1.0% based on total
weight of the composition; for example 0.35% to 0.8%, or, for example 0.5% to 0.7%. Additionally, we have noted
particularly good results when the weight ratio of acrylates/VA copolymer to acrylates copolymer is in the range of 10:1
to 30:1, preferably from 15:1 to 25:1, and more preferably about 20:1.
15 [0019] Acrylates copolymer is commercially available, for example, as Daitosol 5000AD from Daito Kasei Kogyo Co.
Daitosol 5000AD is a 50% aqueous mixture of acrylates copolymer. Therefore, in order to achieve the concentrations
of acrylates copolymer noted above, the concentration of Daitosol 5000AD should be about 0.5% to 2%, for example
0.7% to 1.6%, for example 1.0% to 1.4% by total weight of the composition. Daitosol 5000AD is reported to have a pH
of 5.5 - 7.5, a viscosity of 50 - 100 mPa-s, a glass transition temperature (Tg) of about -14°C.
20
Plasticizer
[0020] While it is possible to formulate an aqueous perfume composition according to the invention without further
modification to the acrylates/VA copolymer - acrylates copolymer complex, preferred compositions may comprise one
25 or more materials in the aqueous phase that are able to plasticize the acrylates/VA copolymer. Such plasticizers will
lower the freezing point of the final composition to a temperature that is suitable for commercial distribution and consumer
use. Furthermore, such plasticizers will modify the porosity of the film that results from the acrylates/VA copolymer -
acrylates copolymer complex, when the perfume composition is applied to a surface. In general, over the ranges con-
templated herein, more plasticizer in the aqueous phase tends to increase the size of the surface pores that are present
30 in the acηlatesΛ/A copolymer - acrylates copolymer film. Controlling this pore size is key to controlling the release of
fragrance as a function of time, and maintaining the integrity of the perfuming ingredients in the composition. In each
specific composition, routine experimentation may suggest the optimum amount of plasticizer. However, for guidance,
we have found that a weight ratio of acrylatesNA copolymer to plasticizer of about 1:1 gives excellent results. We note
that less plasticizer may also give useful results, such as 5:1, or even 10:1 by weight of acrylates/VA copolymer to
35 plasticizer. Since the concentration of acηlatesΛ/A copolymer is 4.5% to 18.5% by weight, total plasticizer will not exceed
about 4.5% by weight of the total composition.
[0021] Useful plasticizers include glycols, also known as diols (chemical compounds comprising two hydroxyl groups).
Potentially suitable glycols include butanediols, propanediols and pentylene glycols. Preferred is 1,3-propanediol.
[0022] Other useful plasticizers are simple cosmetic grade alcohols (for example, ethanol or isopropyl alcohol) in
40 amounts up to about 5% by weight of the final composition. While an alcohol-free composition is most preferred, 5% is
a substantial reduction from the amount typically found in conventional fragrance compositions. Glycol or alcohol may
be used alone or in combination, the total being consistent with the weight ratios of acrylates/VA copolymer to plasticizer
described above.
45 Aromatic ingredients
[0023] Aromatic ingredients include one or more essential oils, distillates, extracts, synthetics, and other ingredients
added for the sole purpose of imparting an odor or scent, or to counteract an odor. Depending on the type of perfumed
product, the level of aromatic ingredients, will typically vary from about 3% to about 30% by weight of the final perfume
50 composition. Most aromatic ingredients are hydrophobic, and will form part or all of the oil phase. Essential oils are pure
distillations of flowers, herbs, roots, or resins, whereas "fragrance oil" usually refers to either blends of synthetic aromatic
ingredients or blends of essential oils cut with a carrier oil. For example, one or more essential oils or one or more
fragrance oils, or a combination of these may form most or all of the oil phase. Or the oil phase may comprise other
aromatic ingredients dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable oil.
55
Other ingredients
[0024] The perfume compositions may also comprise preservatives as needed, typically up to about 2% by weight of
4
EP 3 920 882 B1
the composition. Also, viscosity modifiers, and/or pH adjusters may be used as needed to create a consumer acceptable
product, typically at levels of less than 1% by weight of the composition. At these levels, preservatives, viscosity modifiers
and pH adjusters do not seem to adversely affect the aromatic integrity of the perfume compositions. Compositions
comprise no more than 5% alcohol by weight, preferably less than 3%, more preferably, no alcohol.
5
Form of the Perfume Compositions
[0025] Preferred liquid perfume compositions of the invention have a watery consistency, and are suitable for dispensing
from a mechanical spray pump or aerosolizer. The compositions are oil-in-water emulsions, but unlike previous water-
10 based perfume products, the compositions disclosed herein are able to utilize much less emulsifier and/or surfactant,
which greatly, if not totally negates the problems introduced by the use of high levels of these ingredients. Based on the
total weight of the composition, it is preferable if the perfume composition comprises no more than 5% by weight of
surfactants and/or emulsifiers, more preferably less than 3%, still more preferably less than 1%. Example 1 shows an
effective oil-in-water macroemulsion composition of the invention. Phase 1 is the continuous aqueous phase. Phase 2
15 is the discontinuous oil phase. In this example, and preferably, the acηlatesΛ/A copolymer and acrylates copolymer are
added after the emulsion is formed. However, an effective composition is also achieved if the are added to the aqueous
phase.
Example 1
20
Phase Ingredient wt% Concentration
1 water 49.47
1 SD alcohol 3.72
25 1 hydrogenated lecithin (surfactant) 0.60
1 caustic soda 30% 0.25
1 polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone (emulsifier) 0.96
1 propanediol 4.00
30
1 phenoxyethanol 0.25
2 fragrance oil 15.00
3 1 xanthan gum premix 10.00
35 4 2 Vinysol 2140L 15.00
4 3 Daitosol 5000AD 0.75
1 water 96.70% / xanthan gum 3.10% / preservatives 0.20%.
2 46.6% aqueous mixture of acrylates/VA copolymer.
40 3 50% aqueous mixture of acrylates copolymer.
45
1. Premix xanthan gum stage in a suitable beaker with homogenizer until uniform.
2. In a main beaker add sequence 1 ingredients in the order listed, with homogenizer speed set on 10.
3. After all the sequence 1 are in the main beaker mix for additional 10 minutes.
4. Add Sequence 2 to the main beaker with homogenizer speed set at 30.
5. Mix for 30 minutes.
50
6. Add Sequence 3 at homogenizer speed 30.
7. Add Sequence 4 with same homogenizer speed 30.
8. Mix additional 30 minutes.
5
EP 3 920 882 B1
trometry (GC/MS) were utilized to determine the overall volatile fingerprint, and to identify compounds being given off
by test samples at various intervals.
[0027] Samples for analysis were initially prepared on slides. In order to maintain the same concentration of fragrance
oil in the test samples and the control, the weights of the control and test samples were adjusted. Approximately 0.09g
5 of the control, and 0.60g of test sample were weighed onto individual glass slides. The samples were uniformly spread
on the slides, then placed on a 32°C hot plate, to dry. Samples were prepared with drying times of 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours,
as well as initial. After the allotted drying time, each slide was placed in a 50mL flat test tube, to which 10mL isopropyl
alcohol was added via volumetric pipette. The test tube preparations were then sonicated for two 15 minute intervals,
and vortexed, in order to remove all of the dried formulation from the slide. When each preparation was observed to
10 completely enter solution, each sample was filtered through 0.45um PTFE filters, and analyzed on the GC/MS.
Chromatographic Profiles
[0028] Evaluation of the chromatographic profiles of the control samples indicates a significant decrease in the overall
15 concentration of the total volatile compounds over the eight hour time period. In contrast, evaluation of the chromato-
graphic profiles of the test samples, indicates that the volatile aromatic ingredients of the formulation were retained over
the eight hour time period.
[0033] At the two hour time point, all four compounds were retained in the test samples; limonene, linalool, vetiverol
and geranyl acetate were retained at 53%, 58%, 78% and 89%, respectively.
35 [0034] At the four hour time point limonene, linalool, vetiverol and geranyl acetate were present at 41%, 44%, 68%
and 81 %, respectively.
[0035] At the eight hour time point, limonene, linalool, vetiverol and geranyl acetate were present at 32%, 40%, 64%
and 78%, respectively.
40 C. Conclusion
[0036] Over an eight hour time period, the chromatographic profiles and area counts obtained, show that the test
samples retained a significant amount of the aromatic ingredients, when compared to the control. Significant intensity
was still present at the end of the 8 hour test period, which duration is suitable for consumer use. Also, the range of
45 aromatic notes (olfactive linearity) was fully maintained. We suspect that volatile aromatic ingredients are being retained
on the surface of the acrylates/VA copolymer and/or acrylates copolymer, and volatilizing more slowly than other water
based fragrance compositions.
50 Claims
6
EP 3 920 882 B1
one or more materials that are able to plasticize acrylates/VA copolymer, wherein the ratio of acrylates/VA
copolymer to total plasticizer ranges from 1:1 to 10:1;
an oil phase that comprises 3% to 30% of aromatic ingredients by total weight of the composition; and
5 no more than 3% of surfactants and/or emulsifiers.
2. The perfume composition of claim 1 wherein the ratio of acηlatesΛ/A copolymer to acrylates copolymer is 10:1 to 30:1.
3. The perfume composition of claim 1 wherein the ratio of acηlatesΛ/A copolymer to acrylates copolymer is 15:1 to 25:1.
10
4. The perfume composition of claim 1 wherein the aromatic ingredients include one or more essential oils, distillates,
extracts, synthetics, and other ingredients added for the sole purpose of imparting an odor or scent, or to counteract
an odor.
15 5. The perfume composition of claim 1 wherein the one or more materials that are able to plasticize acrylates/VA
copolymer includes glycols and/or alcohols.
6. The perfume composition of claim 1 comprising no more than 5% alcohol by total weight of the composition.
20
Patentansprüche
1. Öl-in-Wasser-Makroemulsionszusammensetzung, umfassend:
25 eine wässrige Phase, die, bezogen auf ein Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, umfasst:
30 % bis 70 % Wasser;
4,5 % bis 18,5 % Acrylates/VA-Copolymer;
0,25 % bis 1,0 % Acrylates Copolymer;
30
ein oder mehrere Materialien, die in der Lage sind, AcrylatesNA-Copolymer zu erweichen,
wobei das Verhältnis von AcrylatesNA-Copolymer zu Gesamtweichmacher von 1 : 1 bis 10 : 1 reicht;
eine Ölphase, die 3 % bis 30 % aromatische Bestandteile, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammen-
setzung, umfasst; und
35 nicht mehr als 3 % Tenside und/oder Emulgatoren.
2. Parfümzusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei das Verhältnis von Acrylates/VA-Copolymer zu Acrylates Co-
polymer 10 : 1 bis 30 : 1 beträgt.
40 3. Parfümzusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei das Verhältnis von Acrylates/VA-Copolymer zu Acrylates Co-
polymer 15 : 1 bis 25 : 1 beträgt.
4. Parfümzusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei die aromatischen Bestandteile ein oder mehrere ätherische Öle,
Destillate, Extrakte, Syntheseprodukte und andere Inhaltsstoffe einschließen, die für den ausschließlichen Zweck
45 eines Vermittelns eines Geruchs oder eines Duftstoffs hinzugefügt werden, oder um einem Geruch entgegenzuwir-
ken.
5. Parfümzusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei das eine oder die mehreren Materialien, die in der Lage sind,
AcrylatesNA-Copolymer zu erweichen, Glykole und/oder Alkohole einschließen.
50
6. Parfümzusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, umfassend nicht mehr als 5 % Alkohol, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht
der Zusammensetzung.
55 Revendications
7
EP 3 920 882 B1
30 % à 70 % d’eau ;
4,5 % à 18,5 % de copolymère d"acrylates/VA ;
5 0,25 % à 1,0 % de copolymère d’acrylates ;
2. Composition de parfum selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le rapport de copolymère d’acrylates/VA à un copo-
lymère d’acrylates est de 10:1 à 30:1.
15 3. Composition de parfum selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le rapport de copolymère d’acrylates/VA à un copo-
lymère d’acrylates est de 15:1 à 25:1.
4. Composition de parfum selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle les ingrédients aromatiques incluent une ou plusieurs
huiles essentielles, distillats, extraits, ingrédients synthétiques, et autres ingrédients ajoutés dans le seul but de
20 conférer une odeur ou une senteur, ou pour contrecarrer une odeur.
5. Composition de parfum selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le ou les matériaux qui peuvent plastifier un copo-
lymère d’acrylates/VA incluent des glycols et/ou des alcools.
25 6. Composition de parfum selon la revendication 1, comprenant pas plus de 5 % d’alcool en poids total de la composition.
30
35
40
45
50
55
8
EP 3 920 882 B1
This list of references cited by the applicant is for the reader’s convenience only. It does not form part of the European
patent document. Even though great care has been taken in compiling the references, errors or omissions cannot be
excluded and the EPO disclaims all liability in this regard.