Cosmatics A General View..

Cosmetics : An Overview
Chapter-1 INTRODUCTION
Word cosmetics arises from a Greek word Kosmetics used for beautification or improvement of appearance is known as cosmetics. In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be essential commodities of life. The role of cosmetics in every day life met greater acceptability after world war II. It was realized by social and medical scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psychological effect on users and specially on the skin. They keep the skin supple delaying the on set at wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin infections & prevention of sunburns. The use of cosmetics dates back to reustest antiquity. The study of primitive culture indicate that forms of cosmetics beautification have been partial in every part of the world. There is a concept of selah shrinagar i.e. 16 modes of beautification from head to use mentioned in traditional Indian literature in which single here as herbal mixture are applied for this purpose. As per Drugs & Cosmetics Act 1940 & Rules 1945 cosmetics means any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced into otherwise applied to human body or any part there of for cleansing, beautifying , promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetics.
With the increasing use of cosmetics the need for quality control of various products was felt. In the favour of consumers the Act regulates the manufacture and sale of cosmetics through licensing so that these are manufactured distributed and sold only by qualified person1,2. Cosmetics in Ancient Period :The use of cosmetics dates back to vedic & pura anik period. The ancient ayurvedic literature is full of herbal cosmetic
formulation.Traditionally the people used home-made preparations as cosmetics the cosmetics were used extensively by the more privileged people.The use of Kajal for beautifying eyes, Avelha and Reetha as a substicule for aroma therapy are just few examples to substitute the above documented statements.In the ancient Greek Egyptian cultures also stress has been laid on preserving the beauty. With change of time the focus has shifted from perfect image to more simple one. The field of cosmetics is now no longer (confined to females) predominantly coating a females only cosmetisare finding greatest acceptance in daily use of males also. The use of cosmetics, with time has trans the barriers of age. These are now being used from small kids in form of baby powder baby soaps. To younger generation including teenagers in form of perfumes, deosprays, beauty crams to middle aged & elder in form of age defying lotions enriching creams. Certain cosmetics have transcend the barriers of age and gender have assumed the role of protectants as they are now being used in form of lip
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gels cold cream , sun screens.The cosmetics are now finding greater distribution among all the economic sections of our society the acceptance of cosmetics as appearance enhancers by the people from lower strata to upper priuligged has created a congenial environment for the growth of cosmetic industry. The use of bathing soaps, toothpaste as essential commodities stress the importance of cosmetics in day to day life.An important observation art present scenario of cosmetics is that the primary target of the major MNCs is the girls in the age group between 16-25 . They represents their potential buyer segment and the industry is trying to woo them by al trendy means and use of visual media2,3. Role of MNCs :The entry of MNCs in the field of cosmetics had revolutionized the Indian cosmetic market in the post globalization period of the market more stress in laid on consumer satisfaction, consumer acceptance & quality at a premium. To counter the threat nosed by multinationals the cosmetic companies have reacted by following the course of action as . 1. Hunching new product with specialty after extensive research and constant product improvement keeping in view the consumers need expectation.
2. More budget allocation for advertising both in print & visual media. Use
of role models for the product ranges sot that there is better consumer acceptance.
3. After product launch market research consumer field back forms use of question maries and facilities for consumer to enquire about their queries. 4. Offering products with quality and cost effectiveness. 5. Multiple targeting based on various on various categories of market as per the price segmentation. An important consequence of this market domination by MNCs is that a major portion of proceeding from role cosmetics is being drained out of country. This is detrimental to the growth of Indian economy. The major MNCs with backing of pound financial resources advanced technology and protective conversing of the parent countries are invading the Indian market through TVs or their subsidiaries. The domestic players with relative lack of funds & indifferent attitude of government & its policies there of are at the verge of being wiped out from the domestic market scenario. Moreover the MNCs are dumping their products in Indian markets this creating an environment of unhealthy completion. The dumping policy is harming the domestic players as the production cost of their products is higher than the cost at which the MNCs are dumping the products. From the legal and administrative perspective also the MNCs are welcomed in the market due to better financial studying MNCs are investing heavily on carrying out their marketing policy especially on effective & extensive advertisements and sales promotion technique better distribution
coordination etc3,4.
Chapter-2 ADVANTAGES, APPLICATIONS & DISADVANTAGES OF COSMETICS

[A]. Advantages and Applications:
1. Cosmetics are highly used in improving the treatment of skin, hair,
and other conditions. They are at the juncture where wellness meets beauty and growing use by consumers is indicative of their popularity. 2. Cosmetics applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the appearance. 3. Cosmetics are also claim to have medicinal or drug like benefits. 4. Cosmetical oils and ointments are highly used to clean and soften skin and mask body odour.
5. These cosmeceuticals, serving as a bridge b/w personal care products
and pharmaceuticals, have been developed specifically for their medicinal and cosmetic benefits. 6. After the identification of alfa hydroxyl acids (AHAs) cosmetics are used as anti wrinkle agents for skin. 7. These products cross female and male markets, and male grooming is one of the fastest growing market.
8. Vitamin C, an active ingredient of cosmetics is important anti oxidant
in human metabolism. It has UV light protective capabilities and known as one of the best anti ageing ingredient, improving skin clarity and smoothing wrinkles.
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9. Vitamin E, also an active ingredient of cosmetics as an anti oxidant in humans that helps prevent signs of premature aging and reduce flaky, dry skin.
10. Selenium, a trace metal ingredient of cosmetics is essential in human
metabolism as a co factor for enzymatic reaction.

11. Desirable features of cosmeceuticals agents are efficacy, safety,
formulation stability, novelty and patent protection, metabolism with in skin and expensive manufacture5-11.
[B]. Disadvantage (Toxicities) :

Along with the above advantage cosmetic causes various typed toxicity to body. These toxicities occurs either due to sensitivity of individual for related cosmetic products or due to low qualities of product. Following type toxicities and irritations occurs due to various undesirable reaction of cosmetics on human body : 1. Acute toxicities
2. Skin irritations
3. Eye irritations
4. Subchronic toxicities
5. Percutaneous absorption
6. Skin sensetisation and photo sensetisation
7. Mutagenicity / Genotoxicity 8. Photo toxicities / Photo irritation 9. Photo mutagenicity / Photo genotoxicity
Toxicokinetics Studies : Toxicokinetics studies may be required for safety assessment if there is significant absorption. Toxicokinetic studies are also of importance in extra polating both in vitro and in vivo animal data to man. For an analysis potential adverse effects of a cosmetic product or ingredients (e.g. skin irritation, non invasive absorption studies.). Observations in human subjects should be used if available12,13.
Chapter-3 QUALITY CONTROL PARAMETERS OF COSMETICS

DEFINATION The international organization for standardization (ISO) in ISO : 9000 has defined quality control as under quality control : the operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill requirements for quality. OBJECTIVES :Quality control essentially is a tool to achieve the following objectives. To maintain product quality within pre determined limits of acceptability. To identify the possibilities which could narrow these limits. To identify the causes of variation and to eliminate the causes of excessive variation . To reduce cost of production & inspection. To predict impending quality & to prevent them as far as possible. This can be further simplified by saying that quality control involves control of raw materials (including packaging materials), manufacturing & packaging processes by using suitable methods & laboratory facilities for testing and inspection. If control is too be exercised it must be with respect to certain criteria which have been agreed upon these criteria are called standards the formulation is a concise and precise statement of the ingredients which
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compose the product with percentage or weight each. Standards must cover at least the following. Raw material Standards Intermediate Standards
Packaging Material Standards Operating Standards.
Finished Product Standards. This can be further simplified by saying that quality control involves control of raw materials (including packaging materials), manufacturing & packaging processes by using suitable methods & laboratory facilities for testing and inspection1,3. Shelf Testing :Apart from day to day control of product, shelf testing should be undertaken the product is stored at room temperature and it is tested at regular intervals of time. This type of testing will reveal shortcomings in the product. This testing may be supplemented by strong the product under severe conditions like high & low temperature, high & low humidity & exposure to direct sunlight . Exposure of product to stress conditions & its testing can be correlated to its shelf life. ON THE MARKET CONTROL :Inspite of shelf testing under stress, problems may occur in the product when on shelf in the market. How the product will behave on the market, can be found out in the following manner.
By collecting samples from the market at pre-determined intervals, testing the products and interpreting the results as satisfactory or needing correcting. By prompt handling of complaints from market the complaint appraisal may always not be correct by the complaints focus attention on weakness of the product. By scrutiny of returned good product returned by market may not always be due to quality defect. Examination of these goods. Can point out to he characteristic of the product which requires improvements.3. Sensitivity Testing :Various methods have been described to predict the potential of substances to induce irritation or sensitization. Most of the methods involve use of animals. Some methods also involve use of human being. These predictive tests give fair idea about the harmful effects a substance can have. However, it should be understood that human diversity is so great that a few persons may always be sensitive to a particular substance. For detection of potential primary irritation, Daraze test or its slight modification is used, in this test Albino rabbits are clipped and the substance to be tested is applied to :-Intact skin -Abraded skin, or -Lightly scarified skin.
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All of then are covered with a patch for 24 hours, The sites of application are examined at intervals & changes are assessed and recorded. The skin of rabbit is more susceptible than man, However, this method of testing can lead to false positive & false negative. It is advisable to compare results of test substance with the results of known harmless substance. Bureau of Indian Standards in IS : 4011-1982 recommends that if there is no reaction in any of the animals the same test should be performed on ten human volunteers applying the substance on the skin of he forearm3. Sensitivity testing can be done by the following methods 1. Patch Test :On humans sensitivity testing of cosmetics may be performed either as a diagnostic or as prophetic test. By diagnostic test it is intended to discover whether the cosmetic used has caused dermatitis & If cosmetic is know the ingredient which has caused it. It is known as diagnostic patch test, prophetic test is done to assess whether a new cosmetic should be placed on the market or not. This test is know as prophetic patch test, general procedure of patch test is given below. Place about 0.1-0.3 gm of cosmetic to be tested on a piece of cotton fabric or flannel (2-3 sq. cm. in size) and apply this to the skin of arms, thighs or back. This patch is covered with a patch of cellophane (about 5 sq.com.) and sealed with adhesive plaster (about 40sq.cm). Apply several patches at one time. These patches are allowed to remain on the skin for 2472 hours. Sites of patches should be examined after 30 minutes of removal of patch. Usually the skin under adhesive tape gets inflamed. The skin under
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cellophane tape remains clear the skin under test patch may not have reaction or may have reaction like erythema, erythema with papules, papulovascular reaction or ulceration or necrosis. Patch test reactions, usually, are graded as under. Description of Observation No reaction Erythema only Erythema with papules Papilovasicular Ulceration or Necrosis a) Open Patch Test In case of cosmetic containing higher percentage of potential irritants like hair dyes, shampoos, hair tonics, patches should not be sealed. These should be used as open patches. Open patch test is performed on sensitive part of skin, e.g., bend of elbow, popliteal space of the skin behind the ears. The site of patch is inspected after 24 hours. If there is no reaction, the test is repeated once more on the same site. If still no reaction is there, the test is repeated a third time. If no reaction is observed on third application, the person may be taken as not hypersensitive. b) Prophetic Patches Test For full scale prophetic patch test. 200 normal subjects are used. The cosmetics to be sued is placed on the skin of the subject for one to five days depending upon the nature of the cosmetics and judgment of investigator. The patch sites are examined and observations are made. Subject are observed for three more days for development of any late reactions. After 712
Symbol + ++ +++ ++++
10 days, patches are again applied to the same area of those subject who did not show reaction to the test. 2. REPEATED INSULT TEST The repeated insult technique consist in applying the finished cosmetic or if the test substance is an ingredient of the cosmetic, it is applied in the same concentration as is found if the finished formulation incorporated in a bland base. Ordinary 0.5 gram or 0.5 ml. Of the test sample is applied by usual patch test procedure. The test material is maintained in situ for 24 hours. Allowing 15 to 20 minutes after the removal of the patches, readings are made and the reactions recorded. The test subject is allowed 24 hours of the rest and the second test patch is applied to a different test site, otherwise the procedure is identical to that of the first application. Each individual is thus subjected to a services of 10 such consecutive exposures, exclusive of Sundays and non work days. Following the 10 individual exposures the subject is given 10 to 14 days rest after which time a retest application is made similar to one of the original 10 applications. A comparison of the reaction following retest with the average reading of the 10 original applications permits an appraisal of the sensitizing propensities of the substances. 3. PHOTO-PATCH TEST Certain substances are not harmful by themselves but they become harmful when expose to sunlight. Substances that absorb light wave length between 300-800 nm have potential of photo-toxocity. In case, a substance is considered phototoxic, photo patch test may be performed. To perform this, the substance to be tested is applied in duplicate patches in the same manner as for standard patch test. After 24 hours, one of the patches in the pair is
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exposed to sunlight for 30 minutes. Alternatively the patch can also be exposed to ultraviolet light . The light exposed patch is covered again. One additional site in the adjoining area of the skin is expose to sunlight or ultraviolet light as has been done in case of one patch of the pair. The time of exposure is also same as for the exposed patch. This site acts as control. After further 24 hours the patches are opened and examined. If the patch not exposed to light and the skin area exposed to light do not show reaction but the patch site which ahs been exposed to light shows reaction, the test indicates that substance is photonic. If no reactions are observed on patch site and control skin site the substance may be taken s non phototoxic3,14,15. 4. TEST FOR SENSITIZING POTENTIAL Standard patch tests with same chemical or cosmetic are repeated in the same 200 volunteers after an interval of 10-14 days. The number of persons who will show positive reaction will represent the sensitizing potential of the substance or cosmetic which has been. 5. USE TEST In use test, the cosmetic to be test is actually used and its adverse effects. If any, are observed. IS : 4011 suggests that 15 volunteers should be asked to use the cosmetic and they should make 15 applications of it. If there is no adverse reaction, cosmetic can be released for trial. 6. TESTING OF HAIR & BATH PREDPARATIONS FOR EYE IRRITATION PROPERTIES: Eyes can be accidentally exposed to shampoos, other hair preparation and bath preparation. Draize and Kelly designed test on eye mucosa of albino rabbit. Such test can be conducted as follows : Instill 0.1 ml of test
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substance in conjunctival sac of one eye of nine albino rabbits (the other eye works as control) Divide rabbit . Such test can be conducted as follows: Instill 0.1 ml of test substance in conjunctival sac of one eye of nine albino rabbits (the other eye works as control) Divide rabbits in three groups comprising of three rabbits each. Group-1: Group-2: Leave the eyes of this group unwashed. Wash the treated eyes with 20 ml of lukewarm water after 2 seconds of instillation of test substance. Group-3: Wash the treated eyes after 4 seconds of instillation of test substances with 20 ml of lukewarm water. Read the ocular reactions with hand slit lamp for seven days or till any residual injury persist. Any preparation, which leaves corneal or iris lesions for more than 7 days, is considered severe eye irritant. Eye irritant effect of combination of synthetic detergents is greater than produced singly by them. All synthetic detergents preparation used on hair or during bath should be assessed for their eye irritating effect6,15.
Quality Control of Marketed Formulation 1. Quality Control of Deodorants:Amongst the methods of evaluation of deodorants method suggested by Fredell and Longfellow is widely used. On the first day if the test odour of both axilae is record. A scale of 0 to 3 is used for recording and direct shiffing is used for judging the odour. The product to be tested is applied to one axilla and nothing is applied to the control. After 6 hours , both axillae
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are again shifted and the odour is mecorded . The test may be repeated on succeeding day16,17. 2. Method of Quality Control of Dentrifrices :Millar (264) fixed teeth in plaster of pairs and brushed them with various dentrifrices by hand. Using a toothbrush he reported that the majority of dentrifrices of the market prior to 1907 were very abrasive and demonstrated that many of the products were able to into the enamel of teeth. In 1917, Head (265) reported on the abrasiveness of various marketed tooth powder and pastes on the enamel and cemenum of extracted teeth. After hand brushing for 10 min, the abrasiveness was determined by use of an especially contrasted micrometer. In 1921, Garney (2600) reported on the comparative abrasive qulaities of five dextrifices. A freshly extracted tooth was brushed for 10 min, using the cementum as the test surface, and the loss in weight represented the abrasive quality of the dentrifrices is question17. 3. Quality Control of Mouthwash Adequate quality control of all raw materials is imperative there is no more positive invitation to product variation than back of control of the component ingredients. Formula changes of seemingly minor consequence may have unexpected and unfortunate results on a well balanced composition further
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more these effects may not appear until after the product has been stored for some time. Accelerated stability tests at elevated temperature are generally valuable but cannot always predict behavior under more normal conditions. Most flavors and therapeutic ingredients are usually of complese, organic nature and subject to chemical change. 4. Quality Control of Face Powder:Shade control and lighting :The first is comparison of the appearance of the body of the powder to a standard when it is spared out and flattended on a white paper background (skin tone). The second mamer of evaluating color is comparison of the sample to the standard by skin tone (understone). It must be stressed that the powder should be applied with the same puff or device that is being employed in the finished package. Skin tone should be the final judgement of powder shade for it is ultimately the consumers method of evaluation and usage. [a]. Dispersion of Colour :The uniformity of a powder can easily be checked by spreading it on white paper and examining it with a magnifying glass. If any nonunifomity is detected. Further processing to achieve maximum color development should result in homogeneity.
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[b]. Pressure Testing :In a compressed powder the pressure applied must be of a uniform nature , since the presence of air pockets will result in a cake is easily broken uniformity and hardness of a cake are best checked by means of a penetrometer. [c]. Breakage Test :The most successful mames of checking the tendency of pressed powder tablet to break or clip is to drop the assembled impact on a wooden surface several times from a height of 8 to 10 in the cake memains imbroken is an indication that the compact can travel and will undergo normal handling with out unsatisfactory result. [d]. Particle Size & Abrasiveness :Particles size can be determined by microscope sieve analysis by using sophisticated instruments and techniques abrasiveness can studies by rubbing the powders on a smooth surfaces and then studying the effect on the surface suing microscope. [e]. Flow Property :This can be studied by measuring angle repose of powder product by allowing to all on a plate from a funnel and measuring the height and radius of heap formed also, the powder may be allowed to fall from a fumel and nothing the time taken tan =h/r.
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[f]. Moisture Content and Times for Colour :These can be estimated by sing suitable analytical methods. [5]. Evaluation of Hormone Cream:To order to verify the declared content of estrogenic substance, accurate assay method are needed. Both chemical and biological methods are found in the literature . However, because of the small amount of hormone present (of the order of 1 mg 102) chemical methods entail the use of special (infrared) equipment not available in many analytical laboratories. The biological methods, performed in the hands of a trained technician is capable of yielding an accurate analysis which a low experimental error. The biological assay of estrone depends upon changes in the cellular constituents of the vagina stockared and papanicolous were the first to notice that cornification occurred in the vagina of quinea pis during he estrus cycle. Later , Allen and doisy showed that the same cyclic change occurred in the mouse and used this changes as the basis for an assay for estrogen .They found that spayed mice were best subsequent workers found that young adult rats could also be used as assay animal , and kalmt and Doisy described more fully an assay of the avarian hormone based on the vaginal smear methods. The estrogen assay depends upon a cellular change in the vagina of the spayed mouse or rat. Following avariectomy, sinears of the vaginal contents show predominance of leukocytic cells. If the a sufficiently high dose af estrone is administered, the vaginal cell picture changes. There is a
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reduction and finally a disappearance of the leukocytes with an appearance of nucleated epithelial cells. These become mixed with cornified cells, and in some cases a smear containing 100% confied cell is found After several hours leukocytes appear, and within 24 hr. They again become the dominant cellular type. This disappearance of leukocytes and the appearance of mixture of nucleated cells and confied cells or cornifed cells alone constitute a positive smear3,18. [6]. Evaluation of Lipstick/Jelly:Everytime for particular shade, the same shade is produced as that of standard shade. Therefore, colour match should be done. The colour matching should also be done on the skin. The other important criterion is texture. Texture should not be gritty the product should be smooth. The softening pint is an important test as it can give indication whether lipsticks will be able to with stand variation is climate or hot. Since India is tropical country acid temp in some regions goes as high as 480c . The softening point of lipsticks should be sufficiently high so that the lipsticks can be with stand such high temp. Breaking point test is also important in lipsticks. To carry out this test, the lipstick is held horizontally in a socket fitting over about inch of its base and weight is applied at measure distance from the edge of support. The weight applied is increased every 30 seconds by predestinated increment (say 10 gms) until the lipsticks breaks. On a given made at given temp (250 or 300c)Oxidative stability is predicted by standard determination
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of peroxide value after exposure to oxygen under given conditions. Perfume stability can also be assessed by string lipsticks in over at 400c and by making periodic comparison of perfume with fresh lipsticks. Acetated stability test aging can be studied at higher temp (400c) or alternately keeping at 450c and 00c and observing the changes.Ageing stability may be determined by storing at 400c and by making periodic observation oil bleed , crystallization of wax on surface application characteristics. Surface anomalies is studied by surface , such as Formation of crystals on surface Contamination by moulds, fungi etc. Formation of wrinkles Exudation of liquid substances
And of solid fatty substances18,19.
[7]. Evaluation of Nail Liquor:[a]. Nonvolatite Content :There are many methods for the determination of the non volatile present in he lacquer. Generally accepted is the dish method place 1 to 0.2g of resample in a tared flat dish about 8 cm in diameter spread the sample evenly with a tared wire and place in an over at 1.5 20c . At intervals break up any skins formed with the wire. After 1 hr. remove cool and weigh the
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dish. Reheat for 1 additional hr. the same manner and reweigh . Use the greater weight loss in calculating he nonvolatile content of the sample. [b]. Drying Time :Apply a film of the sample with a 0.006 in . Bird applicator under controlled temp & humidity condition at 250c and 50% relative humidity to a completely non surface such as a plate of glass or melaminecoated paper . Measure with a stopuatch the time required to foun a dry to dry much film. [c]. Gloss :Comparisons against a standard should be made by using the flow pour described above . This is general visual observation more critical determination of gloss can be made on graduer or other similar instrument. [d]. Abrasion Resistance :The standard method of measuring resistance to abrasion is by the use of a Taber or similar abraden. On such a device a film on a panel is subject to wear by after a given number of these revolutions is the measure of comparable resistance to abrasion. [e]. Adhesion :Use of a holfoman scratch adhesion unit, which records the grams loading needed to scratch a film coating from a fubstrate glass plate.
[f]. Flexibility :-
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Flexibility of he film can be measured on mandrial set in accordance with ASTM method D-173-62 Generally this method determines the flexibility of films. The film acting is then examined for creaks over the area of the bend, and compared against a standards. [g]. Viscosity :The rotational instruments, such as the brookfiled uiscometer are employed. [h]. Stability :Stability study of the product as well as well as colour is also very important and essential. This can be done by accelerated stability test.3,18. [8]. Evaluation of Shampoo:(1). Performance Properties [a]. Foam and Foam Stability :The Rors-Miles foam column test in this test 200 ml of a surfactant solution. The height of the foam generated is measured immediately and again after a specified time interval and is considered proportional to the volume. [b]. Detergency and Cleaning Action :Benett and Powders evaluated a number of detergents and commercial shampoos, using , wool yarn m the grease as the test medium These
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commercially available skins of naturally soiled wool were washed under controlled conditions. [c]. Effect Water Hardness :Testing shampoo over a range of water harness is necessary, particularly since soaps are susceptible to the impact of calcium and magnesium ion. [d]. Surface Tension and Wetting :The dunocy ring tensiometer is a classical means of measuring this value . Normally quite low concentrations of surfactants are used in the range of 0-1 to 0.25%. [e]. Surfactants Content and Analysis:The surfactant content of shampoos frequently runs from 15 to 25% with the gel and creame concentrates at the higher level, where as eh liquid formulas tend to the lower side. [f]. Rising :Techniques is to employ skilled beauticians to make comparisons of the performance of several shampoos. Here rising can be more easily related on comparative basis. [g]. Conditioning Action :The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by the shampoo user who is making he evaluation on the basis of the past
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experiences, present expectations and containing change in the individual scalp and hair situations. [h]. Softness :Henkin, mills and ester and Barber and Posner have discussed the means of measuring electrostatic change on hair and have described technique for studying this phenomenon. [i]. Luster :Thomposn and mills have provided a technique for measuring luster of hair which amplified photovolt photometer and a polzaring fitter. [j]. Lubricity :Schawartz and Knowles have Hawn correlations of combing case and subjective handle with frictional measurements. Waggoner and scott have devised instrumentation for measuring dry hair respriners with and electronic comb. [k]. Body, Texture Set Retention :These preparations are intended is modify the hair fiber properties is a favourable mammer.The proper amount of body depends on an individual subjective evaluation. The hair length and style have an important bearing on the rating18,20.
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(2). Product Characteristics [a]. Colour:Shampoo color selection has evolved to the increasing use of light, bright, eye catching shades, introduction of improved colour-stabilizing systems, and merchandising techniques that have made product package mutually supporting . Any coloring of shampoo must be done with certified colors. [b]. Consistency :Thick products may be adventurous in reducing spillage or loss during application by may be difficult to disperse through the hair. Thimers products may add an advantage where rapid dispersion and deaning are desirable and where loss due to inadvertent handling is unlikely [c]. Package :Shampoos should be contained in packages of good barrier properties. Package of water vapor, essential oil and air through the container posses a threat to product stability21,22. [8]. Evaluation of Shaving Preparation:Hair-softening studies were conducted by valko and Barmett and by HGollandes and Gasselman. These were primarily measure mento of the sweeling of hair by water and its effect on the softening on cutting strength. Hollander and Gasselmam determined that which the use of 1200F the water for persoftening the beard, a miniumum of 21/2 to 3 min would be needed to
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attain satisfactory softening prior to shaving. This preparation time increased with a decrease in water temp. Roso nad miles deuised an apparatus and published a method for measuring the foaming capabiities of soaps and detergents, and scott the Thompson were able to measure to consitency on viscosity of forms. Many saves have found that the passange of the razor e3dge cross the face was invariable accompanied by the production of superficial cutaneous abrasion of he skin. These abrasions more after that not were invisible but resulted in subsequent irritation. A study of the skin trauma caused by shaving was made by careful examination of the scrapings and residues obtained from the faces of men who had shaved. The skin scrapings were found to be composed of hair with large amounts of varied epithelial components, both nucleated and nonnucleated23. [9]. Evaluation of Suntan Preparations:[a]. Spectrophotometric Evaluation :-The intensity I of radiation of given wavelength which is transmitted through a layer of absorbing material of thickness to radiation. This relationship known as the lambert Beer law, is given by the equation. I=I0v-kte..(1) Where as k is constant with depends on the identity of the absorbing material. In logarthnic form, the equation may be rewritten.
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In
I= -ktc(2) I0
Where E is the optical density the optical density of a film 1 an thick (t=1) and containing 1 gm more of adsorbed per 1000 ml (c=1) is the standard value of the adsorption coff k. The ratio I/I0 gives the fraction of incident radiation transmitted through the film of absorber. Equation (3) is more conveniently used with Briggsian logarithms, and becomes. I0 = (2.303k) tc I I0 A= log =E c I Where A is the molar absorbency and E is the molar extinction coff.
2.203e = log
The molar extinction coff is characteristic, intensive property of a pure compounds and may be used to identify an unknown screen in sunt an preparation. [b]. Erythemal Dosage :Of primary interest to the cosmetic chemist is the estimation of erythemally effective radiation or E-vitions/an2. transmitted by a suntan preparation. The erythenal energy is the product of the solar energy tranmitted through the film I3 and the effectiveness factor at that wavelength. This can be computed by the relationship.
Uw/an2 =Is=Iso x
I I0
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The quantity Iso is a function of the wavelength. The summartion of U w/can for 50-A wide bands centered from 2925 to 3375 A gives the erytehnal energy transmitted by the preparation. E-uitons/cm2 = 0.1 (uw/un2)2 = 0.1 And the erythemal dosage for a given solar exposure would be given E-uitons /an2 x sec exposure The physiological effects that should be observed with such a dosage and provides a first approximations of he effectiveness of the screens. However, it must be remembered that many other factors enter into the operation of the screen , stability, film thickness, film continuity, precutaneous absorption, and the effects of the skin milieu on transmittancy of the screen all can contribute to the variations in the actual behavior of the preparation. For comparative purposes the term provides a pulmonary figure of merit for different sunscreens or suntan preparations, the highest protection is afforded by the at preparation with a minimum. [c]. The Sunscreen Index :Kumler proposed a method for evaluating the relative screening activity of sunscreen compounds. He proposes to compute E 1% at 3080. A to obtain a figure of merit he calls the sunscreen index. This particular wavelength was chosen as the peak of the sunburn curve and the S.I. at this one wavelength is taken to indicate the total efficacy of the screens.
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[d]. In Vivo Skin Testing :This is a direct test on animal skin, particularly rabbit, the site normally used is either backside or abdomen as these sites have maximum sensitivity18,24. [10]. Evaluation of Skin Cream and Lotion:Cooling time and total stirring time are two other factors with affect cream consistency and viscosity of lotions and stability of emulsions. The temperature of cram or lotion at which perfume should be added is another factor with can destabilize emulsion. To obtain a consistent quality, viscosity of creams and lotions should be measured during manufacturing process. A ford viscosity cup or Brookfield viscometer can be used to measure viscosity of creams & lotions. Limits of viscosity should be laid down for quality control purpose. In the viscosity is high it can corrected adding additional fatty material and emulsifies. [a]. Peroxide Stability Test in Creams :The test for peroxide stability can be carried by placing about 1 gram cream in a test tube and heating it in a constant temperature bath. Upper surface at the cream should be in laud with the fluid of the bath . The tube is kept in the constant temperature both for 24 hours at 950c the contents of tube are transferred to a 250 ml. Flask and peroxide content is determined. Stability of peroxide in cream can be found out by initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide in cream and by final concentration of hydrogen
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peroxide in cream after above-mentioned treatment from the following formula. Anal H2O2 Concentration % stability = Initial H2O2 concentration.
Stability of peroxide cream should be better than 95% Stability of peroxide cream should be better than 95% [b]. Estimation of Hydroquinon in Creams :About 4 gm accurately weighed cream is dispersed in 100 ml of water in 250 ml flask. To this are adde 10 ml of 0.1 N sulphuric acid and 10 drops of diphenylamine (1% in ethanol). This mixture is titrated with 0.1 cenic sulphate to a violet and point3,18. [11]. Evaluation of Roughs:Melting point is determined, specially for cream rouges by capillary tube method. The melting point should not be below 500c for good storage and application point of view. Colour dispersion is checked under microscope and no particle above 500c for good storage and application point of view.Colour dispersion is checked under microscope and no particle above 50 , should be there colour particles above 50 size may cause agglomeration.Aging stability is done by keeping the product at over 400c for a one month period and noting the changes and comparing with fresh products. Also product can be periodically kept at 400c, room temperature and in refrigerator for a specific period for nothing the changes18.
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Chapter-4 COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICE GUIDELINES

The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act prohibits the introduction or delivery for introduction into interstate commerce of cosmetics that are adulterated or misbranded (Sec. 301). A cosmetic may be deemed adulterated (Sec. 601) for essentially four reasons, namely: 1. It may be injurious to users under conditions of customary use because it contains, or its container is composed of, a potentially harmful substance. 2. It contains filth. 3. It contains a non-permitted, or in some instances non-certified, color additive. 4. It is manufactured or held under insanitary conditions whereby it may have become injurious to users or contaminated with filth. A cosmetic may be deemed misbranded (Sec. 602) for reasons of: 1. False or misleading labeling. 2. Failure to state prominently and conspicuously any information required by or under authority of this act. 3. Misleading container presentation or fill.
32
To determine whether cosmetic firms manufacture, hold or deliver for introduction into interstate commerce cosmetics that are adulterated or misbranded, and to prevent these and other practices violating Sec. 301 of the FD&C Act, the law gives the agency the authority to enter the establishments of such firms and inspect their facilities as well as all pertinent equipment, finished and unfinished materials, containers and labeling therein. See Sec. 704(a) of the FD&C Act. Rigorous adherence to good manufacturing practice minimizes the risk of adulteration or misbranding of cosmetics. The following cosmetic establishment instructions, excerpted from FDA's Inspection Operations Manual, may serve as guidelines for effective self-inspection. A good inspection score means that an establishment follows good manufacturing practice. GUIDELINES
1. Building and Facilities. Check whether:
1. Buildings used in the manufacture or storage of cosmetics are of suitable size, design and construction to permit unobstructed placement of equipment, orderly storage of materials, sanitary operation, and proper cleaning and maintenance. 2. Floors, walls and ceilings are constructed of smooth, easily cleanable surfaces and are kept clean and in good repair. 3. Fixtures, ducts and pipes are installed in such a manner that drip or condensate does not contaminate cosmetic materials,
33
utensils, cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment, or finished products in bulk. 4. Lighting and ventilation are sufficient for the intended operation and comfort of personnel. 5. Water supply, washing and toilet facilities, floor drainage and sewage system are adequate for sanitary operation and cleaning of facilities, equipment and utensils, as well as to satisfy employee needs and facilitate personal cleanliness.
2. Equipment. Check whether:
1. Equipment
and
utensils
used
in
processing,
holding,
transferring and filling are of appropriate design, material and workmanship to prevent corrosion, buildup of material, or adulteration with lubricants, dirt or sanitizing agent. 2. Utensils, transfer piping and cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment are well-maintained and clean and are sanitized at appropriate intervals. 3. Cleaned and sanitized portable equipment and utensils are stored and located, and cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment are covered, in a manner that protects them from splash, dust or other contamination.
3. Personnel. Check whether:
1. The personnel supervising or performing the manufacture or control of cosmetics has the education, training and/or experience to perform the assigned functions.
34
2. Persons coming into direct contact with cosmetic materials, finished products in bulk or cosmetic contact surfaces, to the extent necessary to prevent adulteration of cosmetic products, wear appropriate outer garments, gloves, hair restraints etc., and maintain adequate personal cleanliness. 3. Consumption of food or drink, or use of tobacco is restricted to appropriately designated areas.
4. Raw Materials. Check whether:
1. Raw materials and primary packaging materials are stored and handled in a manner which prevents their mix-up, contamination with microorganisms or other chemicals, or decomposition from exposure to excessive heat, cold, sunlight or moisture. 2. Containers of materials are closed, and bagged or boxed materials are stored off the floor. 3. Containers of materials are labeled with respect to identity, lot identification and control status. 4. Materials are sampled and tested or examined in conformance with procedures assuring the absence of contamination with filth, microorganisms or other extraneous substances to the extent necessary to prevent adulteration of finished products. Pay particular attention to materials of animal or vegetable origin and those used in the manufacture of cosmetics by cold processing methods with respect to contamination with filth or microorganisms.
35
5. Materials not meeting acceptance specifications are properly identified and controlled to prevent their use in cosmetics.
5. Production. Check whether manufacturing and control have been
established and written instructions, i.e., formulations, processing, transfer and filling instructions, in-process control methods etc., are being maintained. Determine whether such procedures require that: 1. The equipment for processing, transfer and filling the utensils, and the containers for holding raw and bulk materials are clean, in good repair and in sanitary condition. 2. Only approved materials are used. 3. Samples are taken, as appropriate, during and/or after processing, transfer or filling for testing for adequacy of mixing or other forms of processing, absence of hazardous microorganisms or chemical contaminants, and compliance with any other acceptance specification. 4. Weighing and measuring of raw materials is checked by a second person, and containers holding the materials are properly identified. 5. Major equipment, transfer lines, containers and tanks are used for processing, filling or holding cosmetics are identified to indicate contents, batch designation, control status and other pertinent information. 6. Labels are examined for identity before labeling operations to avoid mix-up.
36
7. The equipment for processing, holding, transferring and filling of batch is labeled regarding identity, batch identification and control status. 8. Packages of finished products bear permanent code marks. 9. Returned cosmetics are examined for deterioration or contamination.
6. Laboratory Controls. Check whether:
1. Raw materials, in-process samples and finished products are tested or examined to verify their identity and determine their compliance with specifications for physical and chemical properties, microbial contamination, and hazardous or other unwanted chemical contaminants. 2. Reserve samples of approved lots or batches of raw materials and finished products are retained for the specified time period, are stored under conditions that protect them from contamination or deterioration, and are retested for continued compliance with established acceptance specifications. 3. The water supply, particularly the water used as a cosmetic ingredient, is tested regularly for conformance with chemicalanalytical and microbiological specifications. 4. Fresh as well as retained samples of finished products are tested for adequacy of preservation against microbial contamination which may occur user reasonably foreseeable condition of storage and consumer use.
37
7. Records. Check whether control records are maintained of:
1. Raw materials and primary packaging materials, documenting disposition of rejected materials. 2. Manufacturing of batches, documenting the: 1. Kinds, lots and quantities of material used. 2. Processing, handling, transferring, holding and filling. 3. Sampling, controlling, adjusting and reworking. 4. Code marks of batches and finished products. 3. Finished products, documenting sampling, individual laboratory controls, test results and control status. 4. Distribution, documenting initial interstate shipment, code marks and consignees.
8. Labeling. Check whether the labels of the immediate and outer
container bear: 1. On the principal display panel: 1. In addition to the name of the product, the statements of identity and net contents, 2. The statement "Warning--The safety of this product has not been determined" if the safety of the respective product has not adequately been substantiated. Determine whether and what toxicological and/or other testing the
38
firm has conducted to substantiate the safety of its products. See 21 CFR 740.10. 2. On the information panel: 1. The name and address of the firm manufacturing the product or introducing it into interstate commerce. 2. the list of ingredients (only on outer container) if intended for sale or customarily sold to consumers for consumption at home. 3. The warning statement(s) required at 21 CFR 740.11, 740.12 and 740.17. 4. Any other warning statement necessary or appropriate to prevent a health hazard. Determine the health hazard or their basis for a warning statement. 5. Any direction for safe use of product. 6. In case of a hair dye product, the caution statement of Sec. 601(a) of the Act and appropriate directions for preliminary patch testing. This warning only applies to coal-tar hair dyes which, if so labeled, are then exempted from the adulteration provision of the Act.
9. Complaints. Check whether the firm maintains a consumer complaint
file and determine: 1. The kind and severity of each reported injury and the body part involved.
39
2. The product associated with each injury, including the manufacturer and code number. 3. The medical treatment involved, if any, including the name of the attending physician.. 4. The name(s) and location(s) of any poison control center, government agency, physician's group etc., to whom formula information and/or toxicity data are provided..
10. Other. Check whether the firm is:
1. Participating in the program of voluntary registration of: 1. Cosmetic manufacturing establishments (21 CFR 710). 2. Cosmetic product ingredient and cosmetic raw material composition statements (21 CFR 720). 2. Using a color additive which is not listed for use in cosmetics (21 CFR 73, 74, and 82) or which is not certified (21 CFR 80).
3. Using a prohibited cosmetic ingredient (21 CFR 700)25.
40
Chapter-5 DIFFERENT TYPES OF MARKETED COSMETICS

[1]. DEODORANTS Theoretically any compound which has antibacterial action can be used and decodrant . Deodorant Liquids :Many of the quaternary ammonium compounds have been found nontoxic and sufficiently non irritating such compounds can be used in deodorant liquids. Preparation :Heat the sodium sterate with alcohol in an equipment having reflux condessor till it dissolves chlorhexidinse diacetate in propylene glycol and add to alcoholic solutions of soap . Add isopropyl migrate, mixer well and allow to solution add perfume while cooling mix well and transfer to moulds3,18,26. Deodorant Sticks Formula :Sodium aluminium chlorhydroxy lactate Propylene glycol Sodium stearate Chlorhexidine diacetate Isopropyl myristate Alcohol Perfume
40 % 5.0% 12.0% 0.5% 2.0% 100.0% q.s.
41
Formula :Chlorhexdine diacetate Propylene glycol Penatured spirit (50%) Perfume 0.5% 2.0% 100.0% q.s.
[2]. Dentifrices :Dentrifrices are preparations intended for use with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the accessible surfaces of the teeth. They have been prepared in paste, powder and to lesser extent in liquid and block forms. In addition to enhancing personal appearance by maintaining cleanes teeth. Brushing with a dentifrice reduces the incidence of tooth decay, helps maintain healthy gingival, and reduces the intensity of mouth odour. Good dental health increases the possibility of good generally health, a leading secondary result of cleaning teeth. Liquid Dentrifrices :Liquid dentrifrices have been formulated with and without abrasives. Since the need for an abrasive to insure cleansing of teeth has been established. The ability of a liquid dentrifice to cleanse teeth should be carefully considered before it is affered to the public. Preparation :The manufacturing process is basically simple is basically simple solution of all ingredients. The hydrocolloids are first dispersed in part of the
42
solvent prior to mixing with other ingredients flavour is dissolved in alcohol and then added to glycence and mixed to the bulk18,27. Formula :Sodium myristate sulphate Methyl cellulose Saccharine sodium Flavouring oil Glycerine Alcohol Water [2]. Mouthwashes :Mouthwashes are generally liquid dentrifrices and can be formulated either in ready to used form or in concentrated form. Mouthwashes in concentrated form are required to be diluted as per direction on label. In general three types of mouthwashes are prepared.
Mouthwashes containing anti-bacterials.
4.0 gm 4.0 gm. 0.1 gm. 0.3 gm. 5.0 gm 10.0 gm 85.4 gm
Mouthwashes containing fluoxide

Mouthwashes containing minerals (astringents).
Mouthwashes containing anti-bacterial population of the mouth. Mouthwashes containing fluoride help to reinforce the fluoride layer of the
43
enamel of the teeth. Mineralizing mouthwashes help to repair early carious lession. Preparation :All the above products are required to be diluted which water before use according to the unstructured on the label the dilution in 1:118,27. Formula :Benzoic acid Cetyltriethyl ammonium bromide Resoicinol Thyniol Methyl salicylate Eucalyptol Menthol Alcohol Water [3]. Face Powders :A powder is basically a cosmetic product with has as its prime function the ability to complment skin color by imparting a velvtlike finish. It would enhance the appearance of the skin by masking the shine due to the secretion of the subaceous and sweat gland. 1.00gm 0.60gm 1.00gm 0.15gm 0.35gm 0.15gm 0.15gm 22.00gm 74.60gm
44
A face powder must be a blend of specific raw materials, it is to be a product with exhibits the particular characteristics desired. Therefore it would be well to list the basic ingredients normally employed as well as the properties each may impart to the finished powder formulation . Raw materials Talc Kaolin Precipitated calcium carbonate Zinc and magnesium stearates Magnesium carbonate Rice starch Silicas and silicates Zinc oxide Titanium dioxide Outstanding characteristics Slip Absorbency adhesion Absorbency, bloom Adhesion, waterproofed Absorbency, fulttiness Absorbency bloom Absorbency Opacity Opacity
Face powder are classified into three categories depending on the nature of the skin and corresponding covering ability required from the products. Light Type :- Dry skin requires light powder a powder of slight covering powder as dry skin secretes virtually no oil and little moisture.
45
Medium Type :- Having comparatively higher covering powder, are applied to normal or moderately oil skins, which are shinier due to skin secretions. Heavy Type: - Have covering powder and are used form extremely oily skins which have a great deal of shine and thus require great covering power. Preparation:The preparation of powders is simple as it is simply a matter of dry mixing of finely powdered materials. Add the perfume with part of the adsorbent materials like calcium carbonate or with magnesium carbonate 8 keep is aside for some time. Mix the colour with part of the talc properly and add the other powders and then the perfume mixture mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk mesh oran old washed nylon cloth3,18. Formula :Powder With Reducing Covering Powder Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate (light) Talc Titanium dioxide Magnesium carbonate (light) Colours Perfume 5.0 gm. 10.0gm 20.0gm 57.3 gm 2.0 gm. 5.0 gm 0.2 gm. 0.5 gm.
46
Light Powder Talc Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Rice starch Color Perfume Medium powder :Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate Talc Colour Perfume Heavy Powder :Magnesium stearate Kaolin (light) Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate (light) Talc Colour Perfume [4]. Hormone Cream :Goldzieher et al. have shown that hormone creams containing less than 7500 IU hormone per ounce produce little effect, above 15000 IU per qunce. They fall into the meal of therapeutic agents. Their studies which 5.0 gm. 20.0 gm 15.0 gm. 39.0 gm 20.0 gm 0.5 gm 0.5 gm 15.0 gm. 17.5 gm 20.0 gm. 47.0 gm 0.2 gm 0.3 gm 79.0 gm. 5 gm. 5 gm 0.3 gm. 0.3 gm. 0.7 gm.
47
both men and women involved the use of such hormones as estrone, estradiol, testosterone, estradiol and 17-methylandes stenidiol all of which yielded similar results. From a practical stance , an efficacious hormone preparation should contain an estrogenic content of 10,000 IU or 1 mg tfestone per qunce of cosmetic vehicle according to klarmam and peck. An upper limit of 20,000 IU estrogen per month (based upon the use of OZ of cosmetic cream containing 8 mg of estrone per qunce) is generally accepted by the cosmetic industry18,28. A) Acetylated tanolen Isopropyl myristate Mineral oil Hormone Beesware Cetyl alcohol Steryl alcohol Emulsify agent B) Water Perfume Preservative Antioxidant 15 gm 3 gm 4 gm 1 gm 7 gm 3 gm 3 gm 15 gm 49.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.
48
Preparation :Dissolve mequistite amount of estrogenic substance a suitable solvent 8 use it in A heat components and water separately at 700c slowly add water to A which moderate but continuous stirring continuous while cooling and add perfume at 35 0c.18,28. [5]. Lipisticks :Lipstick is used to make appearance of lipis attractive by impairing color . Narrow lips can be made to appear wider by applying lipstick above the upper lipline and broad sensual lips can be made to appear narrower of applying lipstick well within natural lipline. Lipisticks are basically dispersions of colouring matter in a base consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats , and waxes suitably perfumed and flavoured, moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed in case. The basic raw material required for formulating lipisticks can be classified as . Wax mixture Oil mixture Bromo mixture Colours Preservatives, fragrances, surfactants and other additives.
49
[a]. Transparent Lipsticks :Not contain any opaque pigment or lake, soluble or solubilized dayes are used in such preparationLight can shine through these, staining action can be improved by sing suitable solvent like monoalkylolamide or mixed fatty acid. Solvent is used for bromoacid, this is firstly preparation colour pastes are not being used the lake colours are dispersed by mixing with suitable quantity ( as 25% w/w) of colour oil, and the colour paste is passed through a triple role mill until it is smooth & free from agglomerates gritty particles Titanium dioxide is used in also made into a paste similarly & mixed with the colour mix . All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in order of increasing M.P. The lower M.P. fats and waxes are melted together and mixed with colours and bromomixtures at the same tremp mixture is reviled until perfectly smooth. The preservative antioxidant is dissolved in any remaining oil and added to the mix the high M.P. waxes are now melted and added to the bulk at the same temp. The perfume added are the mass stirred thoroughly but gently to avoid entrapment of air. The mass should not be melted after the high M.P. waxes added gentle stirring is continued until the mass is homogenous and it is then poured in lubricated moulds. Formula :Castor oil Beeswax Paraffin oil 21 gm 20 gm 3 gm
50
Lanolin Cetyl alcohol Isopropyl mysistate Ozokerite wax Carnuba wax Propylene glycol Propylene glycol monoricinoleste Cosin Colour Perfume Antioxidant Preservative [b]. Lip Jelly :-
5 gm 2 gm 3 gm 10 gm 2.5 gm 11 gm 4 gm 2.5 gm 10 gm q.s * *
A simple liquid lip gloss is prepared by perfuming tinting castor coil with colour18,29. Formula :Petroleum Jelly Anhydrous Lanolin Perfume Colour 45.0% 550% q.s
51
[6]. Nail Lacquers :A nail lacquer or enamel in order to be successful must contain a film former whose characteristics are ease of brushing application fast drying & hardening and whose formulation should enhance adhesion to the nail without losing its resistance to chipping and abrasion . Nail lacquers covers the nail with a water and air impermeable membrane which remains. For days and normally can be hemoued only by suitable solvent. Necessity point of view few factor are tot be considered sincerely while designing nail lacquers. Quality requirement for the lacquers Its behavior during application Character of the lacques film Non harmful or non toxic These characteristics can be accomplished by the proper formulation of he necessary constituents of a nail enamel . There are the following. 1. film formers 2. resins 3. solvents 4. diluents 5. Plasticizers 6. Colours 7. Pearle sent pigments
52
8. Others Preparation :The base is prepared separately or diluted from the mother lacquer. Nitrocellulose or film former is dissolved in the solvent, resin, plasticizer can be dissolved directly or may be dissolved in a small amount of solvent and then may be mixed with nitrocellulose solution .The pigments are first dispersed by milling in a suitable vehicle and then incorporated in eh base. The milled dispersion is converted into coloured chips. The coloured chips are dissolved in the lacquer base and blended to prepared suitable shades. Also concentrated colours can be suitable diluted and blended with base. Formula:Nitrocellulose Plasticizer Polypropyl methacrylate Butyl acetate Ethyl alcohol Tolence Colour Lacquer Removes :Lacquer removes also called nail cleanness. These are required to be applied on a smooth and highly resistant surface, composition can be 4 gm. 4 gm. 18.6 gm. 23.9 gm 25.6 gm 23.4 gm 0.6 gm
53
different. Basically all lacquer removes should contain solvent or mixture of solvents which can dissolve the nail lacquer. Formula :Butyl acetate Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether Propylene glycol ricinoleate Perfume Prepare by simple solution18. [7]. Shampoo :Shampoo is a preparation of surfactant (i.e. surface active material) in suitable form. Liquid , solid or powder which when under the conditions specified will remove surface grease, dirt, and stin from the hair shaft and scalp out affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user. [a]. Powder Shampoo :Earlier powder shampoos were prepared soap powder and diluents like sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium phosphate or borax or their combination.30. Formula :Sodium bicarbonate Di sodium phosphate Soap powder Perfume 50gm 20gm. 30gm q.s.
54
15.0 gm 20.0 gm 5.0 gm. q.s.
[b]. Liquid Shampoo :These are one of the popular types of shampoos. Clear liquid shampoos can be prepared with detergents having cloud point. These can also be made with detergents and alkanolamides. Formula :Sodium salt of sulphated Lauryl alcohol ether Water Perfume Preservative [c]. Liquid Cream Shampoo :These are expected to be mild and emollient in action non-ionic sterates like propylene glycol sterate, polyethylene glycol 400 distearate together with insoluble metallic sterates are used for opacification.31,32. Formula :Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate (27% active) Ethylene glycol monostearate Water Perfume Preservative 40 gm. 6 gm 55 gm q.s q.s. 60 gm q.s. q.s. 40 gm.
55
[d]. Gel Shampoo :These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable gelling agent such as sodium stearate. They should have thick consistency. Formula :Sodium lauryl suphate paste Oleic acid Triethanolamine Water Perfume Preservative Colour [e]. Oil Shampoo :Oil shampoos basically consist of detergents made of suphonated oils. They have good cleaning ability so remove dirt and oil from the hair but they do not form foam. Formula :Sulphonated oil Castor oil Water Perfume Preservative Colour 16 gm. 16 gm. 68 gm. q.s. q.s. q.s. 47 gm 20 gm 10.6 gm 22.5 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.
56
[f]. Miscellaneous Shampoo :These are encompassing shampoo containing ingredients incorporated to achieve specific function along with cleansing action shampoos can contain anti-dandruff agents, other medicinal agent life vitamins, amino acids, protein hydrolysate, plant extract, antibacterial agents etc18,32,33. Formula :Selenium disulphide Bentonite Sodium lauryl sulphate (paste) Water Perfume 2.5 gm. 5.0 gm 40.0 gm q.s. q.s.
[8]. Shaving Preparations :Shaving soaps or aids as such were first described over 125 years ago and as would be supposed were prepared by the saponifications of cooking fats with potash and sodelye. Since these early attempt man has been trying to make this process off showing a ore pleasant, convenient and comfortable necessary ritual. The are widely used mens cosmetic products shaving preparations may be divided, basically into two groups. Preparations used before shaving. Preparations used after shaving.
57
{1}. Preparations Used Before Shaving [a]. Shaving Soaps :Shaving soaps originally were prepared in abr or cake form, then in the shaped mug or bowl form. They all had to be applied with a shaving brush to produce a sufficient quantity of later18,34. Formula :Stearic acid Olive oil Coconut oil Glycerine Lecithin Potassium hydroxide (80%) Sodium hydroxide (90%) Water Perfume Preservative [b]. Lather Shaving Creams :Essentially a lather type shaving cream contains ingredients similar is those of the bar shaving soap. 38 gm. 2 gm. 6 gm. 4 gm. 2 gm. 1.6 gm. 0.3 gm. 46 gm. q.s. q.s.
58
Formula :Stearic acid Coconut oil Glycerol Potassium hydroxide Sodium hydroxide Vegetable or mineral oil Water [c]. Brushless Chewing Cream :In those preparation, lathering with brushes in omitted . After washing off the face with soap and warm water these shaving creams are applied to keep the bend soft till the shaving is completed. Initial washing helps in defeating and makes the hair soften. Formula :Glycerol monosterate Stearic acid Glycerine Mineral oil Water Perfume Preservative 14 gm. 8 gm 5 gm. 3 gm 70 gm q.s. q.s 20 to 40% 6 to 40% 5 to 15% 2 to 6% 1 to 3% 1 to 5% q.s.
59
[d]. Shaving Sticks :Shaving sticks are usually produced in a very dry. Firm form with is rubbed on to the moistened skins then morked into a lather with a brush
Formula :Stearic acid Coconut oil Potassium hydroxide Glycerol {2}. Preparations Used After Shaving :The after shave preparations are basically applied to cool and refresh the skin, to overcome irritation on the skin, to neutralize the sorenerss to disinfect of heal the skin damage or cut. They are used is the forms of lotions reams or powder. Most of the lotions are used as after shave preparations powders are also used to some extent but used of creams in comparatively less. The useful antibacterial or antiseptic substances e.g. Quaternary ammonium compounds , chlohexdine diacetate18,34. Formula :Glycerine Chlorexideine diacetate 2 gm. 0.2 gm. 10.5 paits 3.0 0.4 1.0
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Menthol Alcohol Water Perfume [9]. Suntan Preparation :-
0.1 gm. 40 gm. 57.7 gm. q.s.
The purpose of suntan preparations is to assist the skin in taming without painful effects and the purpose of the antiburn preparations is to minimize the harmful effects of sunburn. The materials which are used the above purpose are known a suntaning agent and sunburn preventive agents respectively . Combindely these are known as sunscreen . Suntaning agent are those sunscreems with absorb a minimum of 85% U.V. radiations of the wavelengths of 2900-3200 A0 but with transmit U.V. radiations of wavelengths of longer than 3200 A0 and produce a light transient tan. Sunburn preventive agents are those sunscreems with absorb more than 95% of more of U.V. radiations of the wavelength of 2900-3200 A0. There are another type of sunburn preventive agents with scatter the sunlight. These include titanium dioxide, kaslin , talc, zinc oxide, calcium carbonate and magnesium oxide. Cosmetic sunburn and suntan preparation may be classified into three group. Preparations :Solution types aqueous or oily, can be prepared simply by mixing and dissolving the sunscreen and other ingredients in the vehicle i.e., water or oil
61
perfume should be added all of last. Cream preparation all emulsion type and are prepared by taking ingredients of oil phase and aqueous phase separately and heating to liquefy of dissolve all ingredients and then mixing them together with continuous stirring till the cream is moduced. Perfume should be added after cooling the cream to near room temp and milling further. Lotions can be solutions or emulsions type and can be prepared accordingly cells are highly viscous aqueous preparation . Thickening agent is dispersed in water separately other ingredients are mixed together and dissolved in water. Then the dispersion of thickening agent is mixed with other with stirring to prepare gel. Sunscreen Preparations :The are the most important groups of preparations suncreams should either scatter the incident light effectively on they should absorb the erythemal portion of the suns radiation energy.. Formula :Filtrosol A 1000 Mineral oil Stearic acid Paraffin wax Beeswase Petroleum Jelly Silicone Fluid Polyethylene glycol monosterate 5 gm. 10 gm. 2 gm. 1 gm. 2 gm. 5 gm. 8 gm. 5gm
62
Preparations :These preparations are used for the melieef of irritation and other problems resulting from sunbum. As sunburn cases damage to skin cells in several cases it can be as serious as steam burn , there is always a possibility of secondary bacterial infection so, all-these preparation should also be antiseptic. These are either aqueous solutions or oil in water emulsions and should be able to produce both protective and cooling effect to relief the sunburn3,18. Formula :Calamine Zinc oxide Comphor Alcohol Glycerin Rose water Methyl parahydroxyl benzoate q.s. Stimulative Preparations :They are also termed as artificial suntan preparation. The purpose of enhanced colour may be to prevent skin damage by adsorption of erythermal radication or to indicate the well being of the health. 15 gm. 5 gm. 1gm. 10 gm 10 gm. 59 gm.
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Formula :Dihydroxyacetone Ethanol (95%) Sorbitol Syrup (70%) Boric acid powder Methyl parahydroxyl benzoate Allantoin Water Perfume 4 gm. 28 gm. 3 gm 1 gm 1 gm. 0.3 gm. 60.7 gm. 2.0 gm.
[10]. Creams
[a]. Cleansing Creams :Cleansing cream or lotions is required for removal of facial make-up, surface grime, oil and water and oil soluble soil efficiently, mainly from the face and throat. Although water is good cheap cleansing agent but it is in effective on its own against oils. Soaps can emulsify oils and therefore , so and water can effectively remove oils. Formula :Mineral oil Petroleum jelly Ozokerite wax 80.0 gm. 15.0 gm 5.0 gm.
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Preservative Perfume
q.s. q.s.
[b]. Foundation & Vanishing Creams :These are widely used for various purpose. Vanishing creams are disappear when applied and rubbed into the skin. Foundation creams sever as a foundation base for make up setting as a adherent base application of make up powders. They also provide amollient action and a protective action against environment leaving a semi-occlusive residual film on the skin with the neither too greasy not too drying. [c]. Cleansing Creams :Heat all the oils and waxes together at 650c cool which stirring add preservative and perfume after cooling at 400c. Store in a suitable container. [d]. Foundation Creams :Heat ingredients of oil phase aqueous phase separately to 750c and mix the later to the former slowly with continues stirring cool while stirring. Add the perfume when the temp is about 350c. Preservative should be added to water before mixing with oil phase finally a milling will give a good product. [e]. Night & Massage Creams :They contain thus categories of ingredients, oil and similar substances and water and other water miscible ingredients both should be taken separately and heated nearly to same temp to get all in liquid state. Mix the
65
two with continuous stirring until cream is found perfume should be added after cooling and milled through triple roller mill. Formula :Stearic acid Isopropyl myristate ` Triethanolamine Glycerin Water tomake Perfume Preservatives [f]. Night and Massage Creams :There are certain creams which are applied at night and are removed morning there are other creams with are gently rubbed on the skin with 20% 2% 1.2% 5% 10% q.s. q.s.3
massage like action. These creams are known as night creams and massage creams respectively. Emollient and moisturizing substances are one important component of there creams. To rectify the dryness and maintain the flexibility of the skin enrollients are used. Formula :Bees wax Spermaceti Mineral oil Boranse Rose water to make Preservative 10% 12% 53% 0.5% 100% q.s.
66
[g]. Hand and Body Creams :Hands may be exposed to water, water-soap, water-detergent contact several times in a day. This results in removal of lipids and other secretions from the skin . Excessive contact of detergent and water may even damage cells walls. Cold and dry winds take out moisture from the skin. The preparations can be liquid creams, solid creams, lotions, jellies or nonaqueous types body creams normally contain less oil than and creams. These preparations can be of various natures. :1)
Liquid creams-consistency is of liquid natures :Solid creams is higher Non aqueous type-not containing any aqueous media.
2)
3)
[h]. Hand & Body Creams :Disperse the gum in little of glycerin and add water, containing predisposed presentation, to make a mucilage . Add other ingredients with stirring. Add to the main mass preservative can also be dished in glycerin. Formula :Tragacanth Glycerin Titanium dioxide Water Perfume 2 gm. 10 gm. 0.2 gm. 87.8 gm. q.s.
67
Color Preservative [i]. All Purpose Creams :-
q.s. q.s.
In recent times there has been a tremendous increase in all-purpose creams. These were also known as sports cream they are some what oily but non greasy type and can spread easily on the skin to give protective film. Preparation :Melt the above ingredients together and stir until cold. Add perfumes when cooled to 350c stirring an equal amount of water can be added to this base to form the cream known as hydrous ointment3,18,35. Formula :Wool alcohols Hard paraffin White soft paraffin Liquid paraffin Perfume Antioxidant [11]. Rouge :Rouge can be defined as the cosmetic preparations used to apply a colour to the cheeks. The colour can vary from the palest of pinks to deep blue reds but the conventional rouge contains a high proportion of red or
68
6 gm 24 gm 10 gm 60 gm q.s. q.s.
reddish brown pigments. Products containing lower proportions of pigments or colours are used as toners for special high lighting effects. The pigments should be selected carefully to avoid problems like bleeding. A small priopotion of suitable bromoacid is after included to give a natural and attractive blushing effect. Rouge preparations the pigments or colours are present is different form of carriers and accordingly can be classified into four types but dry rouges is the most commonly and widely used type. Preparation :Add the perfume with magnesium carbonate or starch or other absorbent, mix properly and keep is mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin. Add the magnesium carbonate and then the required colour mix thoroughly and store in a suitable container. [a]. Powders Rouges :They are compressed powders or compacts. They conatin pigments and lakes in dry form , mixed with standard powder matierals like talc, zinc sterate and magnesium carbonate. Compact roughes are more popular than loose powder because they dust less on application and adhere better to the skin due to presence of binders. Formula :Zinc stearate Rice starch Talc 14.5 gm. 14.5 gm. 55.0
69
Pigments Perfume [b]. Anhydrous Cream Rouges :-
14.0 2.0 gm.
They form a continous film on the skin which looks more natural than loose powder. As these bases are water repellent they avoid the risk of perspiration and making the make up run. The melting point of the base should not be below 400c and is after 600c or above. Formula :Ceresin Petrolatum (short fibre) Paraffin oil Stearic acid Lakes Perfume [c]. Emulsion Cream Rouges :Water soluble dyes are after used in these preparations to stain the skin. When water soluble colours are used. It is necessary to incorporate sufficient quantity of hygroscopic substance like glycerol, glycols, sorbito to prevent evaporation of after and darkening of the cream surface. The preparation can be made using beeswax-borax combination or by using a separate emulsifying agent. 32.5 gm. 13.5 gm 2.5 gm 16.0 gm 5.5 gm. q.s.
70
Formula :Lanolin Coca butter Beeswax Liqid paraffin Cetyl alcohol Water Borax Colour Perfume Preventative [d]. Liquids Rouges:The liquid rouges consist of aqueous or hydro alcoholic color solution. The coors selected must be highly substantive to the skin. Though they have some attractiveness but do not have as good appeal as the cream or dry rous. Aqueous preparations are basically made by dissolving the colours in a vicious aqueous medium containing a gm or synthetic thickener glycerin is also incorporation sometimes18,36. Formula :Erythrosine Propylene glycol Ethyl alcohol Rose water 0.5 gm 20.0 gm. 10.0 69.5 gm 4.0 gm. 4.0 gm 14.0gm 26.0 gm 1.0 gm. 44.0 gm 0.8 gm 7.0 gm q.s. q.s.
71
Chapter-6
CONCLUSION
The outlook for cosmetic and goods Industry is dependent on a number of factors economic condition population trends, fashions, scientific progress, and government involvement. Therefore, the cosmetic and toilet goods industry has been relatively immune to economic conditions, but in 1970 the industry experienced a definite slow down. It appears, however, that more aggressive corrective measures taken in the federal government will revitalize the economy and the industry will continue its healthy growth trend. It is further expected that aerosol deodorants, feminine hygiene products, eye make up, hair dressings and conditioners, and mens cologne will continue their strong growth pattern. Most of the factors that have been responsible for recent growth of the industry will continue to have a favorable effect ; increasing population, particularly in the 15 to 34 years age group, increasing affluence resulting in greater spending for personal case items, more women in the work force, the continuing promotion and advertising. Also these are indication, that exports of cosmetics and toilet goods will grow at a faster rate than domestic shipments with the growing consumer movement in the United States. There is increase pressure to establish tighter over the industry by government agencies.
72
Some steps have been taken by trade associations to institute a system of self regulation. The industry as indicated readiness to provide a registration of all ingredient but not formulas. While there have been no serious charges against the industry, the speed at which, and extent to which, the industry moves towards a serious program of self regulation should influence future government action with the development of new products, the improvement of old products and through imaginative advertising and promotion, the field of cosmetic users and uses, should continue increasing. With increased population with more money to spend and more time to spend it, there is every reason to believe that the cosmetic and toilet industry will flourish.
73
REFERENCES
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3. Sharma, P.P., In; Cosmetic Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality
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4. Balsum, M.S. and Sagarin, E., In; Cosmetics: Science and
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Cosmetics : An Overview 11. Dooley, T.P., In; Drug Discovery Approaches for Developing
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for the
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36. http://www.shrianinstitute.org/drugs.html
77

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Cosmetics : An Overview

Chapter-2 ADVANTAGES, APPLICATIONS & DISADVANTAGES OF COSMETICS

metabolism as a co factor for enzymatic reaction.

[B]. Disadvantage (Toxicities) :

Chapter-3 QUALITY CONTROL PARAMETERS OF COSMETICS

Symbol + ++ +++ ++++

Chapter-4 COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICE GUIDELINES

7. Records. Check whether control records are maintained of:

Chapter-5 DIFFERENT TYPES OF MARKETED COSMETICS

40 % 5.0% 12.0% 0.5% 2.0% 100.0% q.s.

Mouthwashes containing fluoxide

5 gm 2 gm 3 gm 10 gm 2.5 gm 11 gm 4 gm 2.5 gm 10 gm q.s * *

15.0 gm 20.0 gm 5.0 gm. q.s.

Menthol Alcohol Water Perfume [9]. Suntan Preparation :-

0.1 gm. 40 gm. 57.7 gm. q.s.

Color Preservative [i]. All Purpose Creams :-

Pigments Perfume [b]. Anhydrous Cream Rouges :-

14.0 2.0 gm.

Control, 2nd edn., Vandana Publication, Delhi India,1995, 109-117.

Skin Disorder, 2nd edn., Fact on file, 2002,5. 8. http://pharmalincensing.com

Products; Adv Dermatol 1997:12:3-17.

with Dietary Supplements , Nutraceutical World, 2004,7:74-80

Pub. Health Rep., 1994,12-23.

Publication, New Delhi, India,1998, 324-356.

Bones Ltd., Londan, U.K.,1991,157-177.

edn., Birla publication PVT. LTD., Delhi, 2006-2007,238-480.

London, U.K.,1984, 576-587. 20.Cook, M.K., Modern Shampoos, DCI, 1966,August,52-99.

sulfates for shampoos, Proc. Sci. Sec. TGA,1949, 9-12.

2nd edn., Leonard Hill, London, 2 Vol, 1962-1963.

Willy-Inter science, New York, USA, 1993,312-356.

1st edn., Van Nostrand. New York, 1941.

F.E., In; Cosmetics in Encyclopedia of Chemical

Cream Shampoos, Proc. Sci. Sec. TGA, 1955, 24.

Industry, New York, 1947,245-259.

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