The Critical 8 Quality for QMS

1. Factory Capability:

Below factory Capability details is an example for our QMS: - Woven/Knit/Lingerie:-

FAIL
Factory having capability to produce make all kinds of formal wear/suits.
Woven/Jersey/Knitwear/Tailoring/Dresses/Shoes - Men’s/Ladies formal and casual shirts,
trousers, jackets, skirt, pinafore, Hoody, T-shirt, Polo Shirt, fabric -cotton, linen, silk,
polyester, viscose, sateen, fleece etc., Knickers, Bra, Vest, Tank Top, Rugby Polo, Fine,
Gown, Medium & Heavy gauge Sweater, Swimwear, Nightwear, Wash and Non-wash
products. This Factory management set up with foreign & local employee. The space of this
factory 300000sqft & there are 4000 worker are working in between full factory.
Normally we are habituate with the lead time 90-120 Days after finalized the order from
customer.

In-house production capacity:-Factory has clear procedures to each worker and for
individual responsibility. They have valid production process to achieve the desired result.
Factory have good plan to produce the order & meet the entire customer’s requirement.

We have all the latest machineries and Technical expert to execute the production and
deliver the right quality product on time.

We have our own design/development team who developed/designed/sourced the new

fabrics, design and products according to current fashion trends/customers demand.

We sourced the fabric both local and imported. We have dedicated fabric team who are
following up and ensure the fabric quality before releasing the fabrics from the fabric mills.

Here is around 2500 machines available in both floors. (Trousers & blazer). This factory
efficiency is 72%. Which is representing470000 pcs in month? Specialized CAD and sample
section will run including product development.

With this factory have well-equipped cutting section and it is running with auto gerberas,
band knife etc. In this cutting section have well rack system at the ware house, store,
cutting & others necessaries place.

Factory has well & modern mold system in located place. This is helping to prevent the
moister/Mold. Even, separate lab is in operation with qualified team with well
equipment’s.
We have our own fabric mill do the knitting and finishing in our in house facility for us also
selling the fabric to outside customers as well. Our per day knitting capacity is appx 15
tons, finishing & dying capacity is 15 tons. We can make all kind of jersey fabric – single
jersey, engineering & feeder stripe pique, inter lock, viscose, fleece, denim and non-denim
fabrics.

We sourced the fabric both local and imported. We have dedicated fabric team who are
following up and ensure the fabric quality before releasing the fabrics from the fabric mills.

We have our own washing plant. We have wash expert from Turkey/SL/Germany. We have
all the latest washing machineries like – Tonal (mentioned the machine brand name) .

We can do all kinds of wash like enzyme wash, acid wash, over dye, bleach wash, peach dye
etc. Per day washing capacity is 20000pcs.

We have our own embroidery facility. We have 2 machines (mentioned the machines
brand name). Per day capacity is 10000 pcs.

The quality system is maintaining independently by separate skilled team. Factories have
fire safety system in place with regular follow up. At the moment handling M&S, Dress man.
Express, H&M, M&S, Next, Prominent,Zara….etc.

For Lingerie Factory we can add below yellow highlighted:-

Factory have vertical set up with enough available support. There are 4480 employee/
Manpower in this factory. These factories have enough space it’s around 330000SQFT
which are using only for production area.

There are 3285 machine with this plant, which are using for different type of production.
In this moment production efficiency for Bra- 45% and Bottoms- 65%. Based on the
manpower and machineries, this factory can produce in average 3.5 million pcs per month.

Have large & digital CAD Division for Auto design & Pattern. Specialized sample division is
available for product development.

We have all the latest machineries and Technical expert to execute the production and
deliver the right quality product on time.

We have our own design/development team who developed/designed/sourced the new

fabrics, design and products according to current fashion trends/customers demand.
Well Equipped Cutting Division with Auto cutting Gerber machine, Band knife Machine etc.
Factory have racking system with well standard elements in Store & Wear House.

There are 99 line in this production floor for Bra, panty, Boxer etc. For more productivity
factory have plan to increase line approximately 45 line in near future.

To keep up the security policy and employee safety, factory promoted Arch Way (metal
Detection Security System and all employees have to check by that machine. Even to
identify the employee from factory have Biometric Punch system for Attendance with well-
educated security personnel.

For Quality SOP, factories have independent Quality Assurance team, who are only working
for better improvement quality.

For Bra, factory have well-equipped Molding system. In this moment have 31 Molding
including foam cup and fabrics. Among of this factory have enough skilled person to make
sure the molding procedure to avoid the unexpected error.

We have our printing plant. (Mentioned what kind of machine using and what type of
printing can do). Per day capacity is 10000 pcs. We can do all over print, 12 color print.

Have well-equipped Lab for test parameter. This lab accredited by M&S and H&M.

In this moment factory are working for - M&S, H&M, Wal-Mart, Calzedinia(Tezenis), AAi,
Etam, Dressman, Cubus
Have Certificate from- WRAP, BSCI, SEDEX, OEKO-TEX, OCS

2. Needle Procedure :

We have strong needle & metal contamination control procedure, having available written
procedure for needle control system which is pasted on needle sub store where everybody
can read and learn.
All possible sources of needles and metal contamination within our premises is under
controlled and reconciled e.g. sewing needles, embroidery needles, knitting machine
needles, tag guns, hand sewing needles, incoming new sewing machines (if with needle),
drawing pins etc. We have a documented needle change/ replacement policy based on
usage /worn out, blunt, or broken needles with log sheet which can trace the machine /
operator / production dates. Needles are kept in a locked cupboard/cabinet and a daily
log/record is maintained. It shows the number of needles issued and the balance.

When a needle breaks, the operator must remove the main body of the needle(s) from the
machine and places it in a secure, non-shatter able box with a small magnet inside. When
the remainder of the needle parts are retrieved, we placed in the same box and taken to the
needle-issuing department to receive a replacement needle. The needle controller/the
assigned person always check the broken fragments against the original needle to
determine what has been retrieved. A replacement needle must never be issued unless all
parts have been retrieved, or a signed Metal Detection Verification Docket is presented.

When the needle breaks during an operation we stop production, and locate all the
fragments. If all the parts of the needle are not found then quarantine the sewn garments,
and the garment parts around the machine (1.5 square meter area). Transfer these
products into a closed container and scan them through the metal detector. If the products
pass the metal detection, release for production. If the product does not pass metal
detection locate the contaminant using a hand-held metal detector, retrieve the
contaminant and release for production. We update the broken needle log, change the
needle on the machine and resume production.

Hand sewing needles are issued in closable boxes. The content list and the operator’s name
written on boxes. Boxes are to be returned daily to the supervisor. Supervisors checking
the contents and keeping record. Needles used in the cutting room also in controlled. We
Keep the broken needles record for last 18 months.

3. Inspection Processes – Product and In line :

We have robust inspection process for all the section/processes…

Fabric:

We carry out fabric inspection in three ways like: Visual inspection, Color inspection,
testing performance.

Visual inspection:

We have sufficient area with all the facilities & required equipment (inspection table with
proper lighting, expert inspector) for fabric inspection. We follow 4 point fabric inspection
system for all incoming fabrics. We inspect 10% of incoming fabrics & some special cases
we are tightening the sampling like 100% inspection for new supplier, new fabric
construction/specification etc. For fabric up to 1000 meter we do 100% inspection also.
We accept maximum 20 points per 1000 yards. If the fabric is fail then we immediately
segregate the both rejected fabrics balance rolls of this lot & keep them into quarantine
area for further decision. Based on pass/ fail percentage we rate the supplier by high risk,
medium risk, & low risk.

Color inspection:
We have light box with meeting all the general (C01) requirements.

We assess the incoming fabric color in 4 steps:

We check the bulk fabric color with approved lab dip.

If there is more than one dye lot then we check the color continuity between the dye lots.

We check the color continuity between the rolls in a dye lot.

We check the color continuity within a roll; end-middle-far end & side –middle –other side.

We maintain color continuity card by collecting a piece of fabric from each roll & check the
color under standard light box.

Testing:

We perform below testing for the all incoming fabrics;

Shrinkage test for each rolls even after ironing /fusing.

Fabric weight & width.

Spirally for jersey/ Bow, skew for woven fabric.

Handle of fabric.

Use different marker for control the measurement.

P5A appearance.

We store all the reports for minimum 2 years for future reference.

Trims inspection:

We inspect all the incoming trims based on AQL (Acceptable quality label). 10% trims are
checking based on 1.5 AQL. All the trims are checking under light box for color assessment.
1st we make the inventory. Based on inventory, expert QC has checked the quantity
availability/ color/ size & measurement/. Then QC has checked all the information with the
documents. All the trims are checking against approved trim card. We test the trims as per
requirement before issuing to next stage. If any lot gets fail then we segregate the whole lot
& keep them into quarantine area for further decision. We keep report for minimum 2
years & analyze to rate supplier.

Cutting section:

In cutting section, we have the below check point.

We check the pattern prior to cutting.

Layer height & width checking after laying out.

Fabrics are keeping for relaxing minimum 24 hours prior to cutting. It depends on the
fabric nature & construction.

Every layer are checking by a QC during spreading for identify & mark the defective area so
that it can be find out & replace easily.

100% cut panels are checking after cutting by expert QC.

Top, middle & bottom panels are checking by hard Patten.

Cut panels are numbering to avoid mismatch panels & shade during stitching.

If any defective panel found then we are re cutting the panels from the cut piece within the
same roll & checking the cut panel before issuing.

We check the fusing calibration twice in a day by calibrating machine heat by thermal
paper, time by stop watch & pressure even ness by carbon paper. We do wash test after
fusing to confirm the appearance. Also we do shrinkage test after fusing.

All the reports are keeping minimum 2 years for future records.

Sewing section:

In sewing section we are following the below inspection system.

We do statistical process control system. We do 07 pcs from each bundle twice in a day.

We check the 1st output garments against the approval for style & quality verification.

We have traffic light system to control the inline quality. Under traffic light system we
check 7 pcs from the bundle, if no defect found then continues the production, if one defect
found then checks another 07 pcs, if no defect found then machine can be run. If 02 or more
defect found then stop the machine & take immediate action.

We have separate team for inspecting the bundle/ partly sew garment based on AQL 1.5.

We have internal audit system to inspect the trimmed garment based on AQL. QC has
inspected the complete garment in hourly basis.

Inline QC checks the trims against the trim card.

We do measure for 100% complete garments.

We inspect 100% completed garments at end of line. This included styling, shade variation,
overall quality.

Finishing/packing section:

In finishing section we are maintaining the below inspection system;

After receiving the carton/ other accessories we check the shipping mark for minimum 1
carton in each style/color/size.

We have process checking system & fro the process checks we have sufficient inline QC to
ensure the product quality.

We have individual QC to ensure the color/ shade of products.

We have hourly audit system. We have assigned one auditor for doing the hourly audit. He
is inspecting the complete goods based on AQL.

We have individual QA team for doing the pre final audit. We follow inspection level-II &
AQL 1.5 for internal inspection.

They are doing inspection on 80% ready goods before offering the final inspection.

We have individual buyer approved QA to doing the final inspection based on buyer
requirement.

4. Button & Popper Attach Policies :

We have the all required machines and trained manpower to handle the products and ensure product
manufacturing processes are capable and meet as per buyer requirements for button and popper
attachment of all clothing for Men, Women, and Children including lingerie, socks, hosiery and filled
product.

This procedure applies to stitch attachment of accessories such as buttons, bows, pom-pom, foam,
motifs, etc. All attachment should be attached using a lock stitch machine and thread wipers/air blowers
must be used with the machine. And all attachment to be attached on an even surface.
Products Factory demonstrates a secure button and popper attached policy & have a separate popper
attachment section and machines are partitioned off.

BUTTON ATTACHMENT PROCEDURES:

There are three methods of button attachment procedure in my factory. Such as --

1. Lockstitch: As per buyer required lockstitch formation must be used except where garment
design/formation type prevents it.
2. Hand sewing: In exceptional cases but buyer approved. Al hand sewn buttons should be
whipped for security unless otherwise agreed with the relevant buyer technologist at the
development stage.
3. Chain stitch: As per buyer requirement but chain stitch not acceptable in children’s wear.

Security of button sewing:

Hole Buttons: At first we take the buyer provided mockup/standard and adjust the machine by
maintenance qualified engineer to ensure the correct needle size for hole button and fabric type. All
hole buttons sewing to correspond with the direction of the button hole. Button attached direction
(Parallel/crossover stitch, etc) and button thread/needle followed as per the byer requirement. Button
sewing tension maintain as per standard.

Button sewing process with lock stitch machine:

1. When starting a button attachment on machine or changing the bobbin the 1 st button
should be attached to a separate plain fabric to ensure the machine is correct.
2. Button must be attached using at least 18 stitches through the button. If the number of
stitches may need to be changed based on the button and fabric type then we take the
approval from buyer or buying technologist at development stage.
3. Whipping of Attached Buttons: As per buyer required we are whipped for heavy weight, pile
fabrics and for all outerwear products. After button attached the button needs to be
whipped and any thread ends s/b locked off or automatically knotted by a machine.
4. Spare Button: As per buyer required spare buttons are expected on all products where there
is more than one button but spare buttons are never offered on children’s wear as they are
considered a small part and choking hazard.

All buttons here must pass a TTF (Test To Failure) and pull test. All accessories attached by
trained operator, Test To Failure and pull tested done supplier/buyer nominated people.

Shank buttons: Shank buttons to be attached as tight as possible that is the button sewed to
stand at right angle to garment.
 POPPER ATTACMENT PROCEDURES:

At first adjust the machine to follow the supplier provided right mould /machine and use the actual
fabric, fusing, etc for making the mock sample to meet the standard and to ensure “product design”
and “manufacturing processes” are capable of meeting buyer requirements for press fastener
attachment across all Clothing. Press fasteners sourced from a buyer approved supplier. All metal
elements of the press fastening must be nickel free. Press fasteners must be applied using a fully
automatic machine, set up to reflect the recommendation on the data sheet and slide calipers. Press
fasteners must be applied through a minimum of two plies of fabric. A reinforced backing must be
applied where there is a single ply of fabric. Press fasteners most not be applied through seams or
uneven foundation and through rows of stitching.

Pinch setting checked every 02 hours per machine attaching and report maintained and pinch setting
check results recorded in graphic form. Here all operators understand how to do the pinch setting check.

All covered fasteners must have the fabric fused to prevent fraying and breakdown in wear. All press
fasteners here must pass a TTF (Test To Failure) and pull test.

TEST TO FAILURE:

TTF is a statistical method used to measure the consistency of production for each and every style and
report recorded. At contract seal stage we test the security of attachment by carrying out a TTF (Test to
Failure). TTF testing is required for all children swear products, age four and under. Below requirements
are following for each and every styles. TTF test conducted by supplier and buyer nominated people.

 Batch of 30 samples (This will be done on 30 pieces of the correct accessory on a correct
mock up representative of the contract seal and subsequently bulk).
 70 N lower pacific limit is used.
 The TTF results required to qualify process is Z=4 or higher at 70N LSL.

Pull Test:

In line pull test strength more than 7.14 kgs or 70N/10 seconds. Inline pull test carried out on true mock
ups 1st hour 05 pcs & next every 02 hours 02 pcs per machine and specimens maintained for review. Pull
tester available in the factory with calibration certificate. All pull tested done by the supplier/buyer
nominated people.
We keep below all types of record with the machine and file.

 To have a visual standard at each machine to indicate the correct component, attachment
method and position.
 Machines servicing record card available at each machine at least every 6 weeks.
 For pinch setting, TTF record with Z-value, Pull test, SPC, etc in the file for minimum 05
years which is our factory compliance.

5. Label Management :
Factory have a Clear quarantined area for incoming labels and also Clear quarantined area
for inspection of failed and ‘on hold’ labels. Label inspection be carried out using CMS
information and the approved trim card.

In store Label kept in secure place in warehouse with records. Authorized person only
allow issuing the labels.

Labels are issued to the sewing lines by exact bundle quantity. Label quantities issued
should be by single size, or color, and match the daily output targets for each line. We
maintain the record for extra or damage label/sewing ticket coming from the sewing
section or finishing section.
Sewing section label placed in lockable area, having access only to line leader/supervisor.
Line leader or supervisor ensure correct label (stroke, size and color). Upon attaching the
label to the garments the operator is responsible of using correct size to the garment by
checking the bundle token attached in the bundle. if the m/c operator finds any
discrepancy in quantity between labels and bundle, must inform to supervisor or in line QC.
If labels are damaged during production, replacement labels are issued on a “new one” for
“damaged one” basis, and records are to be maintained. Approved trim cards should always
be available in the sewing section for reference. After completed the shipment if we have
any execs label/hangtag then we send the trim store and maintain the record book. After
three month we destroy the excess label, keeping the record and take the photograph also.

6. Pre-Production Process and Policy :

We do the Pre-Production meeting for each and every style before starting the bulk
production. All the relevant sections team members joined the meeting – Merchandising,
Quality/Technical team, Production team, Cutting Section, Store, Pressing/Finishing and
Washing team.
It’s recommended that all relevant documents should be available during the PP meeting –
Inspection reports for fabrics, trims and accessories, fabric test report, approved PP/CS
sample, trim card, size chart, design brief, risk assessment report, size set review report,
customer comments, fabric PP note, data sheet for fusing and metal components, TTF
report etc.

During the PP meeting discuss the customer comments, size set review findings, style
complexity/product risk assessment, packing and pressing standard, delivery, shipment
mode, quality standard and any other special attention on any process if required.

7. Style File Availability:

We maintained the individual Style File for each style. Sample Room, Merchandiser,
Production team and QA team should have available complete style file. It’s recommended
that Style File should have all the relevant documents.

 Design Brief/Tech pack/Digital Image.

 Supplier Product Risk Analysis.
 Key Date Plan/Flow/PO Sheet.
 Technical/Test report/Approved Bulk Hanger.
 Contract Seal & GCS Comments with Fit Log/Test Report.
 Approved Graded Size Spec.
 Fabric PP notes.
 Garments PP notes.
 PP/Pre-Flight Notice/Pilot Run Notice.
 Garments & Fabric Test Report.
 TTF report.
 C15 Test report.
 CMS/Labeling Instruction.
 Approved Strike Off Print & Embroidery.
 Approved Trims & Card.
 Rack Seal Comments/Fit Log.
 Firewall Audit Report/CAPAR/Inline Report.
 Approved CS & RS with M&S Sealed.
 Factory Internal Audit Report.
 Others documents/E-mail correspondence related with the Style.

8. Independent Quality Responsibilities:

We have fully independent Quality Responsible team who are free from production and
other team. They are fully independent and directly reporting to CEO/COO/GM/Technical
Head/Factory Manager. We have 15 team members in the team.

They have joined the PP meeting and Risk Assessment meeting. They do the size chart
review, check first bulk production, in line inspection, first bulk packing inspection, pre-
final and final inspection based on approved sample, fabric hanger, trim card, customer’s
comments and other agreed standard/parameters.

They have all rights to fail/reject any inspection without discussion/compromise with
anyone which is not meeting the agreed standard/acceptance level. Nobody in the factory
management is overruling their findings and judgment. Factory management always
respected their decision and takes the necessary step accordingly to ensure the right
quality products delivered.

All the records are kept, analyzed & communicated with the related departments.
Assistances of the independence quality control systems - It states safety requirements
intended to reduce the risk. They set a level of performance for products. They are a
framework for quality processes. They reduce the cost and saves money.