Textile Calculations "A Comprehensive Guide - 241012 - 145500
Textile Calculations "A Comprehensive Guide - 241012 - 145500
Textile Calculations "A Comprehensive Guide - 241012 - 145500
SUJAI BALASUBRAMANIAM
Deputy General Manager – Application Technology
Inarco Private Limited
Email: products@inarco.com
Table of Contents:
1. Fiber and Yarn Testing .......................................................... 3
o Fiber Fineness (Micronaire and Denier)
o Length Uniformity Index (UI)
o Fiber Strength (Tenacity)
o Fiber Maturity and Elongation
o Bundle Strength (Pressley Index)
o Moisture Regain
o Fiber Length Distribution
2. Spinning Related Calculations .......................................................... 10
o Yarn Count Systems
o Yarn Twist (Twist Per Inch, Twist Multiplier)
o Mechanical and Ideal Draft Calculation
o Comber Noil Percentage Calculation
3. Tension and Load Calculations .......................................................... 15
o Lateral Surface Area of Yarn
o Yarn Velocity and Tension in Yarn
o Spinning, Ballooning, and Winding Tension
o Tension Due to Air Drag
o Total Tension on Yarn
4. Production Calculations .......................................................... 20
o Yarn Production Rate (kg/hr)
o Ends Down Rate Calculation
5. Warp and Weft Calculations .......................................................... 24
o Warp Length Calculation
1
o Number of Warp Ends and Total Yarn Length
o Beam Winding Speed and Tension in Warping
o Weaving Production Rate
6. Knitting and Dyeing Formulas .......................................................... 30
o Stitch Length and GSM in Knitting
o Running Length and Production Per Shift
o Dye Exhaustion and Fixation Rate Calculation
7. Statistical Quality Control (SQC) .......................................................... 35
o Coefficient of Variation (CV%)
o Process Capability (Cp and Cpk)
o Six Sigma Principles in Yarn Quality
8. Appendices .......................................................... 40
o Conversion Tables (Length, Weight, Count, Tension)
o Yarn and Fabric Property Formulas
2
FIBRE AND YARN TESTING:
1. Fiber Fineness (Micronaire and Denier):
• Micronaire (Mic) is a measure of both fiber fineness and maturity, especially for
cotton fibers. It gives an indication of the air permeability of a specific mass of
fibers.
• Denier measures the mass in grams per 9000 meters of fiber.
2. Micronaire to Denier Conversion:
(𝑀𝑖𝑐𝑟𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑖𝑟𝑒 𝑣𝑎𝑙𝑢𝑒 × 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠))
𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑖𝑒𝑟 =
0.905
3. Denier Formula:
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 (𝑔𝑟𝑎𝑚𝑠)
𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑖𝑒𝑟 =
9000 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙
4. Length Uniformity Index (UI):
𝑀𝑒𝑎𝑛 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
𝑈𝐼 = × 100
𝑈𝑝𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝐻𝑎𝑙𝑓 𝑀𝑒𝑎𝑛 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
A higher UI indicates a more uniform fiber length distribution
5. Fiber Strength:
Tenacity is the strength of fiber expressed in centinewtons per tex (cN/tex), which is the
force required to break the fiber divided by its linear density.
6. Tenacity (cN/tex):
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 =
𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
7. Breaking Strength:
𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑆𝑡𝑟𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑘𝑔) =
980.665
3
9. Maturity Ratio (MR):
𝑊𝑎𝑙𝑙 𝑇ℎ𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠
𝑀𝑅 =
𝐹𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 (𝑚𝑖𝑐𝑟𝑜𝑛𝑠)
10. Fiber Elongation:
Fiber elongation is a measure of how much a fiber can stretch before breaking.
Elongation Percentage:
𝐸𝑥𝑡𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑎𝑡 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘 (𝑚𝑚)
𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 % = × 100
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚𝑚)
11. Bundle Strength (Pressley Index):
Pressley Index measures the strength of a bundle of fibers.
𝑘𝑔 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐿𝑜𝑎𝑑 (𝑘𝑔)
𝑃𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑠𝑙𝑒𝑦 𝐼𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑥 ( ) =
𝑚𝑔 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐵𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 (𝑚𝑔)
12. Fiber Bundle Strength (Stelometer Test):
Another method for determining the bundle strength of fibers, particularly in cotton.
Stelometer Strength:
4
The uniformity of the fiber length distribution plays a critical role in spinning
performance.
16. Fiber Bundle Strength (HVI Testing):
In high volume instrument (HVI) testing, the bundle strength is commonly expressed in
terms of grams per tex (g/tex).
HVI Bundle Strength (g/tex):
𝑔 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑔)
𝐻𝑉𝐼 𝑆𝑡𝑟𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ ( )=
𝑡𝑒𝑥 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐵𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
17. Breaking Force:
Breaking force is the maximum force required to break a yarn during tensile testing.
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁) = 𝑀𝑎𝑥𝑖𝑚𝑢𝑚 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 𝑅𝑒𝑐𝑜𝑟𝑑𝑒𝑑 (𝑐𝑁))
This value is typically recorded in centinewtons (cN) by the Tensorapid or Tensojet
during a test.
Higher elongation indicates better extensibility, which affects how fibers perform in
processing and final products.
18. Tenacity:
Tenacity is the breaking strength of the yarn relative to its linear density, which is
expressed as centinewtons per tex (cN/tex). It gives an idea of the strength of the yarn
per unit of weight.
𝑐𝑁 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( )=
𝑡𝑒𝑥 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
Where:
• Breaking Force: The force at which the yarn breaks (measured by the Uster
device).
• Linear Density (tex): The linear density of the yarn, where 1 tex = 1 gram per 1000
meters of yarn.
19. Elongation at Break:
Elongation at Break measures how much the yarn stretches before breaking, usually
expressed as a percentage of its original length.
𝐸𝑥𝑡𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑎𝑡 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘 (𝑚𝑚)
𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 % = × 100
𝐼𝑛𝑖𝑡𝑖𝑎𝑙 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚𝑚)
• Extension at Break: The elongation of the yarn at the point of breakage.
• Initial Length: The original test length of the yarn.
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20. Work of Rupture:
Work of Rupture (also called Breaking Work) refers to the total energy required to break
the yarn. It is represented by the area under the force-elongation curve.
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘
𝑊𝑜𝑟𝑘 𝑜𝑓 𝑅𝑢𝑝𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 (𝑐𝑁\𝑚𝑚) = ∫ 𝑏𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁) 𝑑(𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛)
0
This is essentially the energy needed to break the yarn, calculated by the Uster
instruments based on the force-elongation curve.
21. Time to Break:
This refers to the amount of time taken to break the yarn in a tensile test. It is used for
testing the dynamic strength of yarn.
𝐸𝑥𝑡𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑎𝑡 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘 (𝑚𝑚)
𝑇𝑖𝑚𝑒 𝑡𝑜 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘 (𝑠𝑒𝑐) = 𝑚𝑚
𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 ( 𝑠𝑒𝑐 )
Where the elongation rate is determined by the speed at which the testing jaws pull the
yarn apart.
22. Tensile Energy to Break (TEB):
TEB represents the total energy required to break the yarn. It is related to the work of
rupture but is expressed as energy per unit volume of the fiber or yarn.
𝑊𝑜𝑟𝑘 𝑜𝑓 𝑅𝑢𝑝𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒
𝑇𝐸𝐵 (𝑐𝑁\𝑚𝑚/𝑔) =
𝑀𝑎𝑠𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑆𝑒𝑔𝑚𝑒𝑛𝑡 𝑇𝑒𝑠𝑡𝑒𝑑 (𝑔)
23. Tensile Modulus:
Tensile modulus, or the initial modulus, measures the yarn's resistance to initial
stretching and is given by the slope of the initial portion of the force-elongation curve.
𝐼𝑛𝑖𝑡𝑖𝑎𝑙 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 𝐼𝑛𝑐𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑠𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑙𝑒 𝑀𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑙𝑢𝑠 (𝑐𝑁/𝑚𝑚) =
𝐼𝑛𝑖𝑡𝑖𝑎𝑙 𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (𝑚𝑚)
It is an indicator of the stiffness of the yarn.
24. RKM OR Breaking Length:
The breaking length is the length of yarn that would theoretically support its own weight
if hung vertically until it breaks under its own mass.
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑘𝑚) =
𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
This metric provides insight into the yarn’s tensile strength relative to its linear density.
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25. Fiber Fineness (Micronaire):
𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠)
o 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑖𝑒𝑟 = 𝑀𝑖𝑐𝑟𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑖𝑟𝑒 𝑣𝑎𝑙𝑢𝑒 × 0.905
Strength kg cN 1 kg = 980.665 cN
7
30. Coefficient of Variation (CV%):
𝑆𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑑𝑎𝑟𝑑 𝐷𝑒𝑣𝑖𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑜𝑓 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑀𝑎𝑠𝑠
𝐶𝑉% = × 100
𝑀𝑒𝑎𝑛 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑀𝑎𝑠𝑠
31. Mean (Average):
The mean represents the average value of a quality characteristic (e.g., fiber length, yarn
count, or fabric strength) in a sample.
∑𝑋𝑖
𝑋ˉ =
𝑛
Where:
• Xi is the value of the ith observation.
• n is the total number of observations (sample size).
Example in Textiles: The mean yarn strength in a batch of yarn samples, or the mean
count of imperfections (e.g., thick or thin places) in yarn.
32. Range (R):
The range is the difference between the maximum and minimum values in a set of
observations. It is often used to monitor the variability of a process in quality control
charts.
𝑅 = 𝑋𝑚𝑎𝑥 − 𝑋𝑚𝑖𝑛
Example in Textiles: The range of fiber length in a set of cotton fibers or the range of
tensile strength in yarn samples.
33. Sample Standard Deviation (σ):
The standard deviation is a measure of the dispersion or spread of data around the
mean. It is crucial for understanding the variation in textile processes.
∑((𝑋𝑖 − 𝑋ˉ)2 )
𝜎 𝑠𝑎𝑚𝑝𝑙𝑒 = √
𝑛−1
Where:
• Xi is each observation.
• Xˉ is the mean.
• n is the number of observations.
Example in Textiles: Standard deviation of yarn evenness (uniformity of yarn thickness)
or variability in fabric weight.
8
34. Coefficient of Variation (CV%):
The coefficient of variation (CV%) is a relative measure of dispersion that standardizes
the standard deviation by dividing it by the mean and expressing it as a percentage. It's
frequently used in textile testing for yarns and fibers.
𝜎
𝐶𝑉% = ( ) × 100
𝑋 𝐵𝐴𝑅
Example in Textiles: Used to measure the uniformity of yarn strength, yarn count, or the
coefficient of variation in mass per unit length of yarn.
35. Process Capability (Cp and Cpk):
Process Capability evaluates how well a process is performing relative to specification
limits. It helps determine whether the process can consistently produce items within
the desired tolerance.
𝑈𝑆𝐿−𝐿𝑆𝐿
• Process Capability Index (Cp): 𝐶𝑝 = 6𝜎
Where:
o USL: Upper Specification Limit
o LSL: Lower Specification Limit
o σ: Standard deviation of the process calculated by R Bar / d2
• Process Capability Index adjusted for mean shift (Cpk):
𝑈𝑆𝐿−𝑋ˉ 𝑋ˉ−𝐿𝑆𝐿
𝐶𝑝𝑘 = min ( ), ( )
3𝜎 3𝜎
Where:
o Xˉ: Process mean.
Example in Textiles: Analysing the capability of a process to produce yarn with a specific
count or a fabric with a defined tensile strength.
36. Six Sigma Quality:
Six Sigma aims to reduce defects and variation by controlling the number of defects per
million opportunities (DPMO).
Sigma Level is the number of standard deviations between the process mean and the
nearest specification limit.
Sigma Level Calculation:
𝑈𝑆𝐿 − 𝑋ˉ 𝑋ˉ − 𝐿𝑆𝐿
𝑆𝑖𝑔𝑚𝑎 𝐿𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑙 𝑜𝑟 𝑍 𝑠𝑐𝑜𝑟𝑒 = 𝑀𝑖𝑛 ( 𝑜𝑟 )
𝜎 𝜎
Example in Textiles: Achieving a sigma level of 6 for yarn strength to minimize defects
(breaks) during weaving or spinning.
9
37. p Chart (for Proportion Defective):
The p chart is used to monitor the proportion of defective units in a process. It is
applicable when you’re inspecting units and classifying them as either defective or non-
defective.
• Center Line (CL) for the p chart:
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑑𝑒𝑓𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑣𝑒𝑠
𝐶𝐿 = 𝑝ˉ =
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑠𝑎𝑚𝑝𝑙𝑒𝑠
𝑝ˉ(1−𝑝ˉ)
• Upper Control Limit (UCL): 𝑈𝐶𝐿 = 𝑝ˉ + 3√
𝑛
𝑝ˉ(1−𝑝ˉ)
• Lower Control Limit (LCL): 𝐿𝐶𝐿 = 𝑝ˉ − 3√ )
𝑛
Where:
• pˉ is the average proportion of defectives.
• n is the sample size.
Example in Textiles: Monitoring the proportion of defective fabrics or yarns produced in
a batch.
38. c Chart (for Count of Defects):
The c chart is used to monitor the number of defects per unit in a sample (e.g., neps in
yarn or fabric defects).
• Center Line (CL) for the c chart:
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑑𝑒𝑓𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑠
𝐶𝐿 = 𝑐ˉ = 𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑠𝑎𝑚𝑝𝑙𝑒
10
Operating Characteristic (OC) Curve: It provides the probability of accepting a lot,
given the true defect rate.
11
𝐸𝑥𝑡𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑎𝑡 𝑏𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘
𝐸𝑙𝑜𝑛𝑔𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (%) = ( ) × 100
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
Conversion Table for Strength
Strength kg cN 1 kg = 980.665 cN
Conversion:
▪ 𝑁𝑒 = 5315 / 𝑇𝑒𝑥
▪ 𝑁𝑒 = 590.5 / 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑖𝑒𝑟
44. Yarn Twist
o 𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑀𝑢𝑙𝑡𝑖𝑝𝑙𝑖𝑒𝑟 (𝑇𝑀) = 𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟 (𝑇𝑃𝑀) / √𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 (𝑁𝑒)
o 𝑇𝑃𝑀 = 𝑇𝑃𝐼 × 39.37
45. Draft Calculation
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝐷𝑟𝑎𝑓𝑡 = 𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑖𝑣𝑖𝑑𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑑𝑟𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑠 𝑖𝑛 𝑒𝑎𝑐ℎ 𝑑𝑟𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑧𝑜𝑛𝑒
46. Draft:
𝑚
𝐹𝑟𝑜𝑛𝑡 𝑅𝑜𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑟 𝑆𝑢𝑟𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑒 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 ( )
o Mechanical Draft: 𝐷𝑟𝑎𝑓𝑡 = 𝑚𝑖𝑛
𝑚
𝐵𝑎𝑐𝑘 𝑅𝑜𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑟 𝑆𝑢𝑟𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑒 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 ( )
min ⬚
12
47. Comber Noil Percent:
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑤𝑎𝑠𝑡𝑒 𝑒𝑥𝑡𝑟𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑒𝑑
𝐶𝑜𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑁𝑜𝑖𝑙(%) = × 100
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑖𝑛𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡
Tension and Load Calculations
48. Lateral Surface Area of yarn
The lateral surface area (LSA) of the yarn, particularly within the balloon length, is
calculated as:
𝑌𝑑𝑖𝑎
𝐿𝑆𝐴 = 2 × 𝜋 × ( ) × 𝐵𝐿
2
where BL represents the maximum length of the balloon.
49. Linear Density of Yarn in kgs per metre
The linear density (Ld) of the yarn is determined by:
1.0984 1
𝐿𝑑 = ( )×
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑁𝑒 2.2045
This equation converts the yarn count into a mass per unit length, facilitating the
calculation of ballooning tension.
50. Yarn Velocity:
The yarn velocity is simply given by the formula
𝑉 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑖𝑛 𝑚𝑡𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑠𝑒𝑐 = 𝜋 × (𝑅𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑑𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟) × 𝑆𝑝𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝑟𝑝𝑠
Calculation of Tensions Acting on the Yarn
With the yarn properties defined, the next step involves calculating the various tensions
acting on the yarn during the spinning process.
51. Average Spinning Tension
The average spinning tension (ST) is derived using the spinning tension constant (k1), top
arm load (R), and surface speed of the front roller (Vs):
(𝑅 𝐿𝑜𝑎𝑑 × 𝑉𝑠)
𝑆𝑇 𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑛 = 𝑘1 ×
𝐶𝑆𝐴
Where, R is the radial load acting on the front cot in newtons
Vs is the velocity of the cot or delivery rate of the machine in Mts per sec and CSA is the
cross-sectional area of yarn in sq Mts. This formula assumes that the tension is directly
proportional to the top arm load and inversely proportional to the cross-sectional area of
the yarn.
13
52. Average Ballooning Tension
Ballooning tension (BT mean) results from the centrifugal forces acting on the yarn as it
rotates. It is calculated as:
𝐿𝑑 × 𝐵𝐿 × 𝑉 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛2
𝐵𝑇 𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑛 = ( ) × 100
𝑅 𝑑𝑖𝑎
2
𝑅 𝑑𝑖𝑎
where 𝑉 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 is the yarn velocity in Mts per sec, is the ring radius in Mts, 𝐿𝑑 is the
2
linear density of yarn in kgs per Mts and 𝐵𝐿 is the maximum length of ballon in Mts
53. Average Winding Tension
Fror simplicity Winding tension assumed is typically a multiple of the ballooning tension:
where A drag is the drag coefficient taken as 0.82 and A den is the air density 1.23 Kgs per
𝐿𝑆𝐴
cubic Mts, )is the half lateral surface of yarn and 𝑉 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 is the yarn velocity in Mts per
2
sec
55. Total Tension Acting on the Yarn
The total tension (TT) acting on the yarn is the sum of all individual tensions:
14
• Yarn count (Ne) = Cotton Count in English system, which is inversely proportional
to yarn linear density (higher count means finer yarn).
Twist Multiplier essentially normalizes the twist to account for different yarn counts. A
higher TM means more twists relative to the yarn's fineness.
57. Twists Per Inch (TPI):
• TPI is directly related to how much twist is inserted into the yarn. It depends on
both the yarn count and the twist factor (TM).
15
(𝑉𝑏 − 𝑉𝑡)
𝑆% = × 100
𝑉𝑏
where Vb is the speed of the bottom apron and Vt is the speed of the top apron.
16
For example, if there are 2880 warp ends and a warp length of 1200 meters:
Total Yarn Length=2880×1200=3,456,000 meters of yarn
67. Beam Winding Speed:
The speed at which yarns are wound onto the warp beam is important for ensuring
uniform tension. The winding speed can be calculated as:
𝐵𝑒𝑎𝑚 𝐷𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟 (𝑚))
𝑊𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑚/𝑚𝑖𝑛) = (𝑅𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑅𝑃𝑀) × 𝜋 ×
1000
This gives the speed in meters per minute, considering the diameter of the warp beam.
68. Tension in Warping:
Tension is critical for proper warping, and it can be calculated using:
𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑁)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 (𝑁) =
𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑊𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝐸𝑛𝑑𝑠
69. Warp Beam Capacity:
The warp beam capacity is the total length of yarn that can be wound onto the warp
beam:
𝜋 × 𝐵𝑒𝑎𝑚 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑚) × (𝐵𝑒𝑎𝑚 𝑅𝑎𝑑𝑖𝑢𝑠2 − 𝐶𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑅𝑎𝑑𝑖𝑢𝑠2)
𝐵𝑒𝑎𝑚 𝐶𝑎𝑝𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑚) =
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
Where:
• Beam Width: The width of the warp beam.
• Beam Radius: The radius of the full beam after winding.
• Core Radius: The radius of the empty beam core.
• Yarn Linear Density: The linear density of the yarn in tex (grams per 1000 meters).
70. Warping Production Rate:
The warping production rate depends on the winding speed and the number of ends
being warped:
𝑘𝑔
𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 ( )
ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟
𝑚
(𝑊𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑚𝑖𝑛) × 𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝐸𝑛𝑑𝑠 × 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑇𝑒𝑥 × 60)
=
1000
This gives the output in kilograms per hour.
Weaving Formulas
71. Reed Count: It is calculated in the stock port system. No. of dents in 2 inches is
called Reed Count.
17
𝐸𝑃𝐼
𝑅𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 = ( )
1 + 𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝑐𝑟𝑖𝑚𝑝 𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑐𝑒𝑛𝑡𝑎𝑔𝑒
100 + 𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝑐𝑟𝑖𝑚𝑝 𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑐𝑒𝑛𝑡𝑎𝑔𝑒
𝑅𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ = 𝐶𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑥 ( )
100
72. Cloth Cover Factor:
73. Crimp %:
Crimp Percentage is defined as the mean difference between the straightened
thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in cloth,
expressed as a percentage.
(𝑊𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ – 𝐶𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ)
𝑊𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝑐𝑟𝑖𝑚𝑝% = 𝑥 100
𝐶𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
(𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ – 𝐶𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ)
𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝑐𝑟𝑖𝑚𝑝% = 𝑥 100
𝐶𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
74. Loom:
Fabric Specification:
𝐸𝑃𝐼 𝑋 𝑃𝑃𝐼
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑐𝑖𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 = ( ) 𝑥 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ
𝑊𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑋 𝑤𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡
75. Weight of yarn in a cloth:
The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in the
warp and weft: ends/ inch, picks/ inch, and the weight of size on the warp.
Cloth weight in lbs = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑁𝑜.𝑜𝑓 𝐸𝑛𝑑𝑠 𝑋 𝑇𝑎𝑝𝑒 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑌𝑑𝑠
Whereas 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑤𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝑖𝑛 − 𝑙𝑏𝑠. = ( )
840 𝑋 𝑊𝑎𝑟𝑝 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡
𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠/𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟
= (𝑝𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑖𝑛./ 𝑝𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑖𝑛. ) 𝑥 (60 𝑚𝑖𝑛. 𝑝𝑒𝑟 ℎ𝑟.
/ 36 𝑖𝑛. 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑦𝑑) 𝑥 𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑒𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦 (%)
18
𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠/𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟
= (𝑝𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑖𝑛 / 𝑝𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑒𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟) 𝑥 (60 𝑚𝑖𝑛. 𝑝𝑒𝑟 ℎ𝑟.
/ 100 𝑐𝑚 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟) 𝑥 𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑒𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦 (%)
𝑆𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠/𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟 = 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠 𝑃𝑒𝑟 𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟 𝑥 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑌𝑑𝑠. )
𝑆𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠/𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟 = 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠 𝑃𝑒𝑟 𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟 𝑥 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠)
𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐼𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠/𝑀𝑖𝑛)
= 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑃𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠
/𝑀𝑖𝑛) 𝑥 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑌𝑑𝑠. ) 𝑥 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦 (%)
𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐼𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠/𝑀𝑖𝑛)
= 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑃𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑠
/𝑀𝑖𝑛) 𝑥 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠) 𝑥 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦 (%)
Ring spinning dynamics :
77. Force Calculations for Drafting
o 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 𝑜𝑛 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟𝑠 = 𝜇 × 𝑁 where 𝑁 = 𝐿 × 𝑃 × 𝑊 , with L being the Width
of the cot, P the radial pressure, and W the width of material
78. Friction and Cohesion in Drafting
o 𝐹𝑟𝑖𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 = 𝜇 × 𝐹 , where μ is the coefficient of friction and F is
the radial force acting on the cots.
𝑇𝑠
o Yarn cohesion coefficient (Ck) for drafting = 𝐶𝑘 = 𝐹𝑑, where Ts is the
spinning tension and Fd is the drafting force.
79. Twist Angle
𝑇𝑃𝐼
o 𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑎𝑛𝑔𝑙𝑒 𝛼 = 𝑡𝑎𝑛−1 (𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑑𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟)
19
Conversion Tables:
Length m yd 1 m = 1.09361 yd
Length yd m 1 yd = 0.9144 m
Weight kg lb 1 kg = 2.20462 lb
Weight lb kg 1 lb = 0.453592 kg
Count Ne Nm Nm = Ne × 1.693
Tension cN gf 1 cN = 1.01972 gf
Where T is tension, D is the yarn diameter, and L is the length of the yarn.
83. Statistical Quality Control (SQC) Formulas
• Coefficient of Variation (CV%):
𝑆𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑑𝑎𝑟𝑑 𝐷𝑒𝑣𝑖𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑜𝑓 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑀𝑎𝑠𝑠
𝐶𝑉% = × 100
𝑀𝑒𝑎𝑛 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑀𝑎𝑠𝑠
20
86. Length Contraction Due to Twist:
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ − 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔
𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑡𝑟𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (%) = × 100
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
39.37
𝑆𝑝𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑟𝑝𝑚) = 𝐷𝑒𝑙𝑖𝑣𝑒𝑟𝑦 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑚/𝑚𝑖𝑛) × 𝑇𝑃𝐼 ×
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑀𝑢𝑙𝑡𝑖𝑝𝑙𝑖𝑒𝑟 (𝑇𝑀)
87. Drafting Force in Front Zone (Ring Spinning):
𝑃×𝑊
𝐹𝑑 =
𝐿
Where P is the radial pressure in pascal, W is the width of material under grip in mts ,
and L is the length of the contact zone in mts .
88. Fiber Cohesion Factor in Spinning:
𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦
𝐶𝑓 =
𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝐷𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟
21
94. Weft Insertion Rate (m/min):
1
𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝐼𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 (𝑚/𝑚𝑖𝑛) = 𝐿𝑜𝑜𝑚 𝑅𝑃𝑀 × 𝑃𝑖𝑐𝑘 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ ×
1000
95. Air Permeability of Fabric:
𝐿
𝑚2 𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝑎𝑖𝑟 𝑝𝑎𝑠𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑡ℎ𝑟𝑜𝑢𝑔ℎ 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑖𝑛 𝑐𝑢𝑏𝑖𝑐 𝑚𝑡𝑠
𝐴𝑖𝑟 𝑃𝑒𝑟𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑏𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( )=
𝑠 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑖𝑛 𝑠𝑞 𝑚𝑡𝑠 × 𝑇𝑖𝑚𝑒 𝑡𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑛 𝑖𝑛 𝑠𝑒𝑐
22
102. Tenacity of Fiber:
𝑔 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐿𝑜𝑎𝑑 (𝑔)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( )=
𝑑𝑒𝑛 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑖𝑒𝑟)
103. Thermal Conductivity of Fabric:
𝐻𝑒𝑎𝑡 𝐹𝑙𝑜𝑤 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 (𝑊)
𝑇ℎ𝑒𝑟𝑚𝑎𝑙 𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑣𝑖𝑡𝑦 =
𝐾
𝑇ℎ𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠 (𝑚) × 𝑇𝑒𝑚𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 𝐺𝑟𝑎𝑑𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑡 (𝑚)
23
110. Reed Width of Loom:
(𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝐸𝑛𝑑𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ × 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐)
𝑅𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ =
𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑒𝑛𝑑𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑡
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(𝑊𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 − 𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟)
𝑊𝑅𝑉 (%) = × 100
𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟
120. Yarn Packing Density:
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡
𝑃𝑎𝑐𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 =
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛
121. Weft Insertion Rate in Air-Jet Looms:
𝑚
𝑊𝑒𝑓𝑡 𝐼𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 ( ) = 𝑁𝑜𝑧𝑧𝑙𝑒 𝑃𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑒 × 𝑁𝑜𝑧𝑧𝑙𝑒 𝐷𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟
𝑚𝑖𝑛
122. Tensile Energy to Break (TEB):
𝑊𝑜𝑟𝑘 𝐷𝑜𝑛𝑒 𝑖𝑛 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔
𝑇𝐸𝐵 =
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟
123. Fabric Stiffness:
𝐵𝑒𝑛𝑑𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑈𝑛𝑖𝑡 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎
𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑓𝑓𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠 =
𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ
124. Filament Yarn Tenacity:
𝑐𝑁 𝐵𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐹𝑜𝑟𝑐𝑒 (𝑐𝑁)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑎𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( )=
𝑡𝑒𝑥 𝐿𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
125. Dimensional Stability in Knitted Fabrics:
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎 − 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎 𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ
𝐷𝑖𝑚𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝑆𝑡𝑎𝑏𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑡𝑦 (%) = × 100
𝑂𝑟𝑖𝑔𝑖𝑛𝑎𝑙 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎
𝑆𝐶𝐼 = −414.67 + 2.9 ∗ 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑟𝑒 𝑠𝑡𝑟𝑒𝑛𝑡ℎ 𝑔𝑚𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑡𝑒𝑥 − 9.32 ∗ 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑟𝑒 𝑚𝑖𝑐𝑟𝑜𝑛𝑎𝑖𝑟𝑒
+ 49.17 ∗ 𝐹𝑖𝑏𝑟𝑒 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑈𝐻𝑀𝐿") + 4.74 ∗ 𝑈𝑛𝑖𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑚𝑖𝑡𝑦 + 0.65 ∗ 𝑅𝑑
+ 0.36 ∗ 𝑏2
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𝑑2−𝑑1
129. Fiber Migration in Yarn: 𝑀𝑓 = 𝑘 ⋅ 𝑑2+𝑑1
where Mf is the migration factor, d1 and d2 are diameters of the respective fibers, and k
is a constant based on spinning conditions.
130. Fiber Blend Ratio Optimization:
𝐴⋅𝑃𝐴+𝐵⋅𝑃𝐵
• 𝐵𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑑 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜 (%) = 𝐴+𝐵
where A and B are proportions of fiber A and B, and PA and PB are their respective
performance metrics (like strength or elongation).
Knitting formulas:
135. Stitch Length (S):
The length of yarn in each loop, affecting fabric structure and weight:
𝑇𝑒𝑥 × 𝐾𝑠
𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ(𝑆) =
𝐺𝑆𝑀
where Ks is a constant based on fabric type (e.g., single jersey, rib), Tex is yarn linear
density, and GSM is grams per square meter
136. Knitting production:
𝑚
𝐾𝑔 (𝑅𝑢𝑛𝑛𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ ( ) × 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑚) × 𝐺𝑆𝑀)
𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 ( ) = ℎ𝑟
ℎ𝑟 1000
137. Running Length is calculated as:
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139. The relationship between yarn count, stitch length, and GSM:
𝐾
𝐺𝑆𝑀 =
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 × 𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
where K is a constant that varies with fabric structure (e.g., 12068.59 for single jersey)
𝐺𝑎𝑢𝑔𝑒
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑚) = 𝐶𝑦𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑟 𝐷𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟 (𝑖𝑛) ×
𝑊𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 100
140. Knitting Production Per Shift:
For single jersey machines:
𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛
= 𝜋 × 𝐶𝑦𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑟 𝐷𝑖𝑎𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟 × 𝐺𝑎𝑢𝑔𝑒 × 𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × 𝐹𝑒𝑒𝑑𝑒𝑟𝑠 × 𝑅𝑃𝑀
𝑠ℎ𝑖𝑓𝑡 (𝑘𝑔)
𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦
× 60 × 8 ×
2.54 × 36 × 840 × 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 × 2.2046
Dyeing related formulas:
141. Required Dye Amount:
This formula calculates how much dye is needed based on the fabric weight, shade
percentage, and stock solution concentration:
𝑔 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 (𝑔)
𝑅𝑒𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝐷𝑦𝑒 ( ) = 𝑆ℎ𝑎𝑑𝑒 % ×
𝐿 𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑐𝑒𝑛𝑡𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 % 𝑜𝑓 𝑆𝑡𝑜𝑐𝑘 𝑆𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛
142. For solid auxiliaries like salt or soda ash:
𝑔 𝑅𝑒𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 % × 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 (𝑔) × 𝐿𝑖𝑞𝑢𝑜𝑟 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜
𝑆𝑎𝑙𝑡 ( ) =
𝐿 1000
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145. Material-to-Liquor Ratio (MLR):
The standard ratio of fabric weight to dye liquor volume:
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 (𝑔)
𝑀𝐿𝑅 =
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐷𝑦𝑒 𝐵𝑎𝑡ℎ (𝑚𝑙)
146. Comber Noil Percentage (N%):
Comber noil refers to the short fibers that are removed during the combing process. The
formula to calculate the noil percentage is:
𝑊𝑎𝑠𝑡𝑒 (𝑔)
𝑁% = 𝑥 100
𝐹𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑔)
Where Waste is the amount of material removed (in grams), and Feed is the amount of
fiber fed into the machine.
147. Production per Shift (Kg/Shift):
Production is calculated using the total weight of the fiber processed over a certain
period:
𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑑𝑢𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 (𝐾𝑔/𝑆ℎ𝑖𝑓𝑡)
𝑛𝑖𝑝𝑠
𝑁𝑖𝑝 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 ( 𝑚𝑖𝑛 ) × 𝐹𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑁𝑖𝑝 (𝑔) × 𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦 × 𝑇𝑖𝑚𝑒 (𝑚𝑖𝑛)
=
1000
Where:
• Nip Rate is the number of nips per minute.
• Feed per Nip is the weight of material processed per nip (in grams).
• Efficiency is the percentage of machine efficiency.
• Time is the duration of the shift (in minutes).
148. Nip Rate:
This is the rate at which the comber processes material:
𝑁𝑖𝑝 𝑅𝑎𝑡𝑒 (𝑛𝑖𝑝𝑠/𝑚𝑖𝑛) = 𝐶𝑦𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑟 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 (𝑅𝑃𝑀) × 𝑁𝑜. 𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑖𝑝𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝐶𝑦𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑟 𝑅𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛
Cylinder speed and the number of nips depend on the machine's settings.
149. Ring Frame Drafting Force:
The force required in the drafting zone of a ring frame:
𝐹𝑑 = 𝜇 ⋅ 𝑃 ⋅ 𝐴
Where:
• μ = coefficient of friction between roller and fiber
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• P = pressure applied to the top roller
• A = cross-sectional area of the roving
150. Spinning Triangle:
The angle of the spinning triangle, which affects yarn evenness and strength:
𝑟 𝑐𝑜𝑡 − 𝑟 𝑟𝑜𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑟
𝜃 = 𝑎𝑟𝑐 𝑡𝑎𝑛 ( )
𝐿 𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑛𝑔𝑙𝑒
Where r cot and r roller are the radii of the front top and bottom rollers, and L triangle is
the length of the spinning triangle.
151. Critical Spindle Speed:
Determining the spindle speed at which spinning tension becomes too high, leading to
yarn breaks:
𝑇𝑏𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘
𝑁𝑐 = √𝑘.
𝜇 ⋅ 𝜌 ⋅ 𝑟𝑏
(rho): The linear density of the yarn, typically expressed in grams per meter (g/m). It is a
measure of how much the yarn weighs per unit length, which affects the tension in the
spinning process.
r_b (radius of balloon): This represents the radius of the ballooning yarn as it spins
between the ring and the bobbin in a ring spinning machine. The larger the balloon
radius, the greater the centrifugal forces acting on the yarn, which increases tension.
152. Tension in Yarn (N)
𝑘𝑔
(𝑏𝑎𝑙𝑙𝑜𝑛 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚) × 𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( ) × 𝑡𝑟𝑎𝑣𝑒𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑟 𝑣𝑒𝑙𝑜𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 2 )
𝑚
𝑏𝑎𝑙𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑛 𝑟𝑎𝑑𝑖𝑢𝑠 (𝑚)
𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑖𝑛 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 =
100
This formula calculates the tension in the yarn, factoring in the length of the yarn
(distance), its linear density, the velocity of the traveller, and the balloon radius. Dividing
by 100 ensures that the units are consistent with Newtons (N).
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153. Natural Frequency (Hz)
1 𝑇𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑖𝑛 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛
𝑁𝑎𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑎𝑙 𝑓𝑟𝑒𝑞 𝐻𝑧 = ×√ )
2 × 𝐵𝑎𝑙𝑙𝑜𝑛 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚) 𝑘𝑔
𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 ( 𝑚 )
This formula calculates the natural frequency of the yarn using the relationship between
the tension, linear density, and length of the yarn. It’s based on the fundamental
equation for the vibration of a string under tension.
154. End Breaks Due to Resonance
To quantify the risk of end breaks due to resonance, we can define a resonance risk
factor based on how closely the natural frequency harmonics match the spindle
frequency:
𝑛
1
𝑅𝑖𝑠𝑘 𝐹𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑜𝑟 = ∑ ( ) 𝑖𝑓(𝑓𝑠𝑝𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 − 𝑓𝑛, 𝑖) < 𝛥𝑓
(𝑓𝑠𝑝𝑖𝑛𝑑𝑙𝑒 − 𝑓𝑛, 𝑖)
𝑖=1
Yarn Torsion Formula (to calculate the torsion per unit length due to twisting):
𝑇𝑎𝑝𝑝𝑙𝑖𝑒𝑑
𝜏=
𝑗
Where:
• τ is the torsional stress,
• Tapplied is the applied torque,
• j is the polar moment of inertia
155. Yarn Flexural Rigidity:
𝑅 =𝐸⋅𝐼
Where:
• E is the Young's modulus of the yarn,
• I is the moment of inertia of the cross-section
156. Force of Torsional Twisting:
𝑇
𝐹 𝑡𝑤𝑖𝑠𝑡 =
𝑟
Where:
• T is the twisting torque,
• r is the radius of the yarn.
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157. Energy Absorption in Yarn:
1
𝐸 𝑎𝑏𝑠𝑜𝑟𝑝𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 = ⋅ 𝐹𝑚𝑎𝑥 ⋅ 𝛥𝐿
2
Where:
• Fmax is the maximum force the yarn can withstand,
• ΔL is the elongation of the yarn.
12-10-2024
X
Sujai Balasubramaniam
Deputy General Manager
Signed by: 3f1b25d5-eec9-42b8-9c14-5b5b9d19d52e
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