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 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

belgium and
luxembourg
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

belgium and
luxembourg
main contributor: antony mason
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS
GUIDE 6

MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose

SENIOR EDITORIAL MANAGER Savitha Kumar
SENIOR DESIGN MANAGER Priyanka Thakur
PROJECT EDITOR Sandhya Iyer
PROJECT DESIGNER Stuti Tiwari Bhatia
EDITOR Shalini Krishan
DESIGNER Namrata Adhwaryu
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHIC MANAGER Uma Bhattacharya
CARTOGRAPHER Jasneet Arora
DTP DESIGNER Azeem Siddique
SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCH COORDINATOR Taiyaba Khatoon
PICTURE RESEARCHER Shweta Andrews
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR Antony Mason
PHOTOGRAPHERS Lynne McPeake, Paul Tait
ILLUSTRATORS
Surat Kumar, Arun Pottirayil, T. Gautam Trivedi Carvings on cathedral door depicting
Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan the Last Judgement, Antwerp
Printed and bound in Malaysia by Vivar Printing Sdn Bhd
First American Edition, 2009 INTRODUCING
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BELGIUM AND
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
New York 10014 LUXEMBOURG
Reprinted with revisions 2011
Copyright © 2009, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London DISCOVERING
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT BELGIUM AND
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN LUXEMBOURG 10
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY
ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER PUTTING BELGIUM
AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
AND LUXEMBOURG
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
ON THE MAP 12
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM
THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554 A PORTRAIT OF

ISBN 978-0-7566-7014-6 BELGIUM AND
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH LUXEMBOURG 14
BELGIAN USAGE; IE THE FIRST FLOOR IS AT GROUND LEVEL.

Front cover main image: Group of people at a sidewalk café,

Grote Market, Veurne, Flanders, Belgium BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG
THROUGH THE YEAR 32

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book
will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher,
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
Vibrant, colourful costumes at the
London, WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email:travelguides@dk.com.
Pageant of the Golden Tree, Bruges

The Grand Place, centre of Brussels’s Lower Town, at night

Vineyards stretching across the wine making commune of Remich, along the banks of River Moselle, Luxembourg

THE HISTORY CENTRAL WALLONIA SPORTING AND

OF BELGIUM 36 192 ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS
312
BELGIUM AND EASTERN WALLONIA
LUXEMBOURG 212 SURVIVAL GUIDE
REGION BY
REGION GRAND DUCHY PRACTICAL
OF LUXEMBOURG INFORMATION 320
BELGIUM AND 234 TRAVEL INFORMATION
LUXEMBOURG AT
330
A GLANCE 50 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
BRUSSELS 52
WHERE TO STAY 256

WHERE TO EAT 276

SHOPPING IN BELGIUM
Rich Belgian chocolates
302

ENTERTAINMENT GENERAL INDEX 336

IN BELGIUM 306
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SHOPPING AND 346
ENTERTAINMENT IN
Bronze statue of Tintin and his LUXEMBOURG 310 PHRASE BOOK 348
faithful dog Snowy, Brussels

FLANDERS 98
WESTERN FLANDERS
104

CENTRAL AND EASTERN

FLANDERS 140

WALLONIA 170
WESTERN WALLONIA Rubenshuis,
176 Antwerp
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you get the most
from your visit to Belgium and
Luxembourg. It provides detailed
practical information and expert recom-
mendations. Introducing Belgium and
Luxembourg Region by Region is the
main sightseeing section. It covers all
the important sights, with maps, pho-
tographs and illustrations. Information
on hotels, restaurants, shops, entertain-
Luxembourg maps the countries and ment and sports is found in Travellers’
their regions, sets them in historical and Needs. The Survival Guide has advice
cultural context and describes events on everything from travel to medical
through the entire year. Belgium and services, telephones and post offices.

  
 

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BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
 
 


 



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INTRODUCING
BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG

DISCOVERING BELGIUM AND

LUXEMBOURG 1011
PUTTING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG 1431
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
THROUGH THE YEAR 3235
THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 3647
10 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

DISCOVERING BELGIUM
AND LUXEMBOURG
V isitors to Belgium and
Luxembourg are generally
amazed at the kaleido-
scope of experiences and
attractions on offer. Based
as Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp,
which retain much ornate archi-
tecture from their past. Wallonia
and Luxembourg have a more
rugged landscape, being part
on language and culture, Quadriga on the of the hilly and forested
Belgium is split into Dutch- Jubelpark arch, Brussels Ardennes, and both are dot-
speaking Flanders in the ted with cathedrals and châ-
north and French-speaking Wallonia teaux. Museums in these regions
in the south. Flanders is famous for its explore every subject from lace and
historically great trading cities, such paintings to motorcars and chocolate.
St-Baafskathedraal (see p132).
In the southern stretches of
Western Flanders are the bat-
tlefields of World War I and
their unremitting cemeteries.
In Ieper (see p124), the
museum called In Flanders
Fields recounts the harrow-
ing tales with moving dignity.

CENTRAL AND
Elaborate guildhouses surrounding Brussels’s Grand Place EASTERN FLANDERS

loved by all ages is the home • Fashion in Antwerp

BRUSSELS of Tintin, Centre Belge de la • Tranquil abbeys
Bande Dessinée (see p62). • Rural traditions in Bokrijk
• Historic centre
• Top museums Home to Belgium’s most
• Mould-breaking WESTERN FLANDERS important port-city, Antwerp
Art Nouveau (see pp144–55), Central and
• Medieval Bruges and Ghent Eastern Flanders is charac-
Belgium’s debonair capital is • The North Sea coast terized by a leisurely pace
best known for its magnificent • World War I battlefields and open spaces. Wealthy
centrepiece, the beautiful and in medieval times, Antwerp
theatrical Grand Place (see Nudging the low beaches flourished again in the age
pp56–7), which has ornate and nature reserves of the of Rubens, whose restored
guildhouses and friendly bar- North Sea coast, Western home, the Rubenshuis (see
cafés. Pedestrianized streets, Flanders is most popular for pp150–51), is a monument
outdoor restaurants and innu- its two great trading cities – to the swagger of his era.
merable shopping opportuni- Bruges (see pp108–117) In recent times, the city has
ties add to the pleasure of and Ghent (see pp130–35). become a sparkling hub
exploring this area. Beyond Bruges is a medieval city of contemporary fashion
this centre are a number of in miniature, mirrored in its design, as reflected in its
exquisite Art Nouveau build- tranquil canals, but the streets shops. Further east, the
ings, most notably the Musée have an upbeat vibrancy. venerable university
Horta (see p80) and the Two outstanding art town of Leuven (see
Musée des Instruments de museums contain classic pp160–61) contains the
Musique (see p65). Among work by Flemish mas- most beautiful Gothic
the city’s treasures are the ters – the Groeninge town hall in Belgium.
great national art museums, Museum (see pp114–15) The Premonstratensian
Musées Royaux des Beaux- and St-Janshospitaal Order of monks was
Arts (see pp68–73), which and Hans Memling attracted by the tran-
house some of Rubens’s finest Museum (see p113). quillity of this region,
paintings and many Brueghels Ghent is as old, but founding monasteries
as well as the new Musée bigger and with a Painting in at Tongerlo (see
Magritte. A museum much university and the St-Baafskathedraal p157) and Averbode

Detail from The Triumph of the Archduchess Isabella, painted in 1616 by Denys van Alsloot (1570–1628)
 DISCOVERING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 11

(see p162). A major attraction scene of the famed Ardennes

in this part of Belgium is the Offensive of 1944–5, remem-
open-air museum of Bokrijk bered in many museums and
Openluchtmuseum (see p167). monuments, particularly at
Old Flemish farming tradi- Bastogne (see p230). In the
tions are preserved here in far south, the classic hill-top
a collection of historical rural Château-Fort de Bouillon (see
buildings set out in the park. 232–3) speaks of the distant
age of the crusading knights.

WESTERN WALLONIA
GRAND DUCHY
• Cathédrale Notre-Dame OF LUXEMBOURG
in Tournai
• Rich industrial heritage • Luxembourg City, the
• Castles and châteaux astonishing capital
The long colonnaded nave at • Vineyards of River Moselle
Once the wealthy industrial Tournai's Cathédrale Notre-Dame • Charming landscape
powerhouse of Belgium, the of Little Switzerland
mining and smelting region
around Charleroi (see p187) EASTERN WALLONIA The jewel in the Grand
and Mons (see p189) have Duchy’s crown is its capital,
fascinating heritage sites, such • Great museums in Liège Luxembourg City (see 240–
as gigantic boat lifts and • Beauty of the Ardennes 45). Spectacularly perched
mining museums. Western • Memories of the over a sheer ravine, it was
Wallonia is also known for Ardennes Offensive one of the strongest citadels
its magnificent castles, most in Europe and retains such
notably at Attre (see p185), Most of Eastern Wallonia is mementos of its past as the
Seneffe (see p187) and given over to the pristine network of casemates that
above all, at Beloeil (see hills, forests and river valleys riddle the cliffs. However,
p186). The enduring histori- of the Ardennes (see pp174– many visitors also come to
cal importance of this region 5). In the north is Liège (see Luxembourg to explore its
can be witnessed at one of pp216–19), businesslike and unspoilt landscape and
Belgium’s most striking and full of verve, with two superb nature, particularly in the
awe-inspiring cathedrals, museums. The Musée Grand area known as Petite Suisse
the Cathédrale Notre-Dame Curtius presents a world-class (Little Switzerland) near
in Tournai (see pp180–84). collection of decorative arts Echternach (see p250). In the
and Musée de la Vie Wallonne north are imposing medieval
is an exemplary museum on castles. Among them, the
CENTRAL WALLONIA local social history, traditions château at Clervaux (see p252)
and crafts. For a walk in wild, is notable as the home of
• River Meuse untamed landscape and even Edward Steichen’s astounding
• Battlefield of Waterloo cross-country skiing, the collection of photographs,
• Stalactite-filled caves Liègeois head for the high The Family of Man. No visit
moorland of Hautes Fagnes to this country is complete
Sweeping through the (see p223). Further south, the without a pilgrimage to its
landscape of rolling hills and switchback hills and valleys of wine making region around
agricultural land that mark the Ardennes were once the the River Moselle (see p249).
Central Wallonia is the great
artery of the south, the River
Meuse (see p206). Limestone
beds and streams cover this
part of Belgium, as a result
of which, the region is pitted
with caves (see pp208–209)
dripping extravagantly with
stalactites. Namur (see p202–
203), the capital of Wallonia,
contains some of the finest
examples of medieval Mosan
(literally, of the Meuse) gold,
silver and enamel work. In
the north, close to Brussels,
is the field of Waterloo (see
pp196–7) with many memo-
rials to its famous battle. River Sûre looping around Esch-sur-Sûre, Grand Duchy of Luxembourg
12 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Putting Belgium and

Luxembourg on the Map
With an area of 30,530 sq km (11,788 sq miles) and a population
of about 10.6 million, Belgium is a small country, bordered
by France, Germany, the Netherlands and the North Sea. Its
biggest port, Antwerp, lies on an estuary separated from the
rest of the coast by a segment of the southern Netherlands.
The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is landlocked, bordered by
Germany, France and Belgium. Less than one-tenth the size
of Belgium, Luxembourg is one of the smallest independent
nations in Europe. Both countries have a rich historical
heritage and highly developed economies. They
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Belgium has three official languages: French, Dutch

and German. Dutch is spoken in Flanders, the north-
ern half of the country. In the past, the people of
Flanders were said to speak Flemish, but this term is
now used to refer to the many dialects of Dutch used
within Flanders. French is used in Wallonia, the south-
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lies wholly within Flanders and is officially bilingual.
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KEY in the Province of Liège. From an administrative point
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in reality they are more fluid, creating considerable
Dutch
antagonism where communities using one language
French are governed by authorities operating in another. This
language divide has become more deeply entrenched
German
over recent decades and is a thorny political issue.
 PUTTING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG ON THE MAP 13

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 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 15

A PORTRAIT OF
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

T
ied together by a shared and complex history, Belgium and
Luxembourg are two of the most prosperous countries in
western Europe. This is manifest in their rich cultural tradi-
tions, the fine art and architecture of the towns, the high quality of
cuisine and the genuine warmth with which visitors are welcomed.

Both countries are small. fully independent only in the

The Kingdom of Belgium, 1830s. For centuries before
with its capital at Brussels, this, they were ruled by a
has a population of some 10.6 succession of foreign powers:
million. More than 90 per cent of Romans, Franks, French, Spanish,
the citizens live in urban centres, Burgundians, Austrians and the
leaving relatively uninhabited Dutch. They have been
Belgian lace fan
the large areas of farmland fought over ceaselessly, and
in the north as well as the wilder suffered particularly in the 20th cen-
Ardennes in the south. The Ardennes tury during the two World Wars.
spill over into the Grand Duchy of This bruising history at the hands
Luxembourg. This tiny yet independ- of their neighbours made Belgium
ent country is a quarter of the size and Luxembourg avid supporters of
of Belgium, and has a population of the European Union (EU) from the
just 480,000. Its capital, Luxembourg start. Today, both Brussels and
City, has about 76,000 inhabitants. Luxembourg City play host to many
The histories of both countries are of the EU’s major institutions. Along
closely linked. They are both fairly with Strasbourg in France, they are
young nations, in that they became effectively capitals of the EU.

Remnants of medieval walls surrounding the Old Town of Luxembourg City

Revellers at the costumed Ommegang festival in Brussels’s Grand Place

16 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

The medieval château of Bourscheid, nestling in the remote forests of Luxembourg’s Ardennes

LAND AND NATURE Ardennes is now a magnet for people

Belgium has the reputation of being a who cherish natural beauty. Much of
flat country. However, without ever the landscape rests on limestone
being mountainous, much of the land karst, riddled with spectacular rock
is, in fact, hilly. This is also the case in formations and caves.
Luxembourg, whose capital is perched These wilder regions are home to a
spectacularly on a rocky escarpment. rich diversity of wildlife that includes
Broadly speaking, the landscape of eagle owls, black grouse and wild
Belgium and Luxembourg can be boar. The coastal region of Belgium
divided into three distinct zones. The is on the migratory routes of egrets,
northwest of Belgium is fairly flat and spoonbills and storks. Both nations
low-lying. However, the land rises readily appreciate their natural herit-
in the central band on either side age and are wary of the threats posed
of Brussels. To the west, the area by uncontrolled development. This
around Oudenaarde is hilly enough sensitivity is reinforced through numer-
to have earned the name, the Flemish ous parks and nature reserves.
Ardennes. To the east of Brussels,
productive farmlands cover the hills PEOPLE AND SOCIETY
of the Hageland in Flemish Brabant Belgium and Luxembourg have three
and the Haspengouw (Hesbaye in official languages, reflecting their
French) in southern geographical position
Limburg. The climate is on the borderlands of
mild and the land well three major linguistic
watered: grapes grown groups. Luxembourg
in this area make high- has German and
quality Belgian wine. French, as well as
The third zone is the Lëtzerburgesch, a lan-
Ardennes, which covers guage of the German
southeastern Belgium family. Many of its
and northern parts of people are genuinely
Luxembourg. Once dis- trilingual, and switch
missed as remote and A flock of gulls shares the beach with easily between the
underdeveloped, the walkers along the North Sea coast three languages.
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 17

Belgium is divided into two main

linguistic regions. In the north is
Flanders, with 59 per cent of the pop-
ulation. The people, known as the
Flemish, speak Dutch. In the south is
Wallonia, which holds 31 per cent of
the population; people here speak
French. Apart from these, there is a
small German-speaking community in
the border region of the east.
The Dutch-French language divide
has existed more or less since Roman
and Frankish times, in other words
for 1,500 years. In spite of their dif-
ferences, the Flemish and French-
speaking communities have remained
in geographical proximity, bonded by
their religion, Catholicism. This circum- High-stepping participants in medieval costume
stance is a result of the religious strife enlivening the Pageant of the Golden Tree in Bruges
of the 16th century, when Protestants are impressive displays of devotion.
moved north to what is today the However, religion does not generally
Netherlands; the Catholics play an overt role, and society
stayed back in modern-day is basically secular.
Belgium. Luxembourg is like- Across the linguistic divides,
wise predominantly Catholic. Belgians and Luxembourgers
Religion is still a significant share similar goals – to achieve
presence: churches are very comfortable lifestyles through
much a part of the landscape education, hard work and
and most traditional rites of enterprise. Their prosperity is
passage, including baptisms, Dutch road signage reflected in international
in Belgium
weddings and funerals, are rankings of the total national
conducted through the church. Many wealth generated per head of popula-
of the carnivals, so prevalent in tion (Gross Domestic Product per
the calendar of events, are religious capita): Belgium is 16th on the list
in origin, and some, such as the while Luxembourg is first. Such
Procession of the Penitents at Veurne, wealth has attracted workers from all
over the world. Many
come from EU countries;
some in Belgium have
links with its colonial
past in Africa, especially
the Congo; others come
from Muslim countries of
the Mediterranean, nota-
bly Turkey and Morocco.
Luxembourg’s immigrants,
mainly from Europe,
account for 37 per cent
Outdoor café culture, enjoyed in every town throughout the region of the total population.
18 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

times. As the economy shifted

towards light industries, financial
services and international trade,
Flanders prospered and Wallonia
drifted into the doldrums. Politically,
Flanders became more assertive,
achieving ever greater degrees of self-
rule. However, new resentments grew
in these changed circumstances.
Luxembourg is also a constitutional
monarchy. The head of state is the
grand duke, who has genuine author-
ity over an elected government. The
grand ducal family has strong dynas-
tic ties to Belgium – the mother of
Grand Duke Henri, the present
incumbent, was Princess Joséphine-
Charlotte of Belgium, older sister to
Modern façade of the European Parliament in Brussels, King Albert II. However, it would be
looming above a statue of industrialist John Cockerill
a mistake to think that Luxembourg
GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS lives in Belgium’s slipstream. Small it
Belgium is a constitutional monarchy may be, but Luxembourg is an utterly
and King Albert II is the head of state. independent country with its own
Politically, Dutch-speaking Flanders distinct culture and identity.
and French-speaking Wallonia have
each been given their own regional THE ECONOMY
governments, which has, to some Belgium has a mixed economy of
degree, satisfied the desire for auton- manufacturing, agriculture, trade,
omy. However, it has also reinforced financial services and knowledge-
the divisions. There is an overarching based industries such as pharmaceuti-
federal government, based in Brussels, cals, biotechnology and information
but intercommunal strains in recent and communication technology. Its
years have resulted in unstable old traditional industries, such as steel
national governments composed of and chemicals, are now mainly in the
precarious and complex coalitions. hands of multinational companies.
The resentment attached to The prime exports are foodstuffs, tex-
Belgium’s linguistic divide has a long tiles, iron and steel, cars and plastics.
history, dating back to the Middle Antwerp in Flanders is world leader
Ages, when Flanders was
ruled by a French-speaking
elite. When Belgium began to
industrialize, French-speaking
Wallonia became the centre
of production for coal, steel
and manufactured goods. The
Flemish fell victim to eco-
nomic, social and cultural
discrimination. This situation
has been reversed in recent The old docks at Antwerp, Belgium’s most important port-city
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 19

Palatial office of the international steel giant Arcelor Mittal in Luxembourg City

in the trade and processing of raw among the industry’s most respected
diamonds. Belgium also benefits names. In the world of books, the
financially from being the primary Belgian authors Georges Simenon,
centre of EU administration. Tourism creator of Inspector Maigret, and
is a key sector as well, with its main Hergé, creator of Tintin, rank among
focus on Brussels and the Flemish the world’s top-selling authors.
cities of Antwerp, Bruges and Ghent. Both Belgium and Luxembourg
Luxembourg’s largest industry produce talented sportsmen, who
used to be the production of acquit themselves well at the
high-quality steel. These days, Olympics, especially in the
financial services, banking Diamonds from
fields of judo, high-jump and
and insurance, are the main Antwerp athletics. Belgium has produced
income earners. The country outstanding tennis players in
also houses numerous major inter- recent years, notably world champi-
national Internet companies. ons Kim Clijsters and Justine Henin.
Both countries excel in professional
ART AND SPORT cycling, with 22 winners of the Tour
Historically, Belgium is known for de France between them. This includes
having produced some of the finest Belgian Eddie Merckx, considered the
art and architecture in Europe. This greatest professional cyclist ever.
includes the pioneering oil painting
of Jan van Eyck and his contemporar-
ies, Rubens’s spectacular Baroque
canvases, Victor Horta’s Art Nouveau
style as well as the Surrealism of René
Magritte and Paul Delvaux. Like its
neighbour, Luxembourg also has an
outstanding art scene, boosted by the
opening of the prestigious Musée
d’Art Moder n Grand-Duc Jean
(MUDAM) in 2006. Similar dynamism
has been shown in ballet and film,
and also in fashion, where Antwerp- Belgium’s champion cyclist Eddy Merckx leading
based designers in particular number the race at Vincennes, 21 July 1974
20 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Landscape and Wildlife

Belgium has a misleading reputation for
being a flat country. This is only true of
the northwest, where polders of drained
coastal marshes form large expanses of
The common rich green pastures. The central band
heath moth
of the country features undulating
farmland, while to the southeast, the terrain rises
progressively into the dramatic hills and scenic forests
of the Ardennes. The rivers Sambre and Meuse slice
through central Belgium, forming a natural northern
boundary to the Ardennes. Belgium’s wildlife reflects
this diversity in landscape with a full cross-section of
North European flora and fauna, from deer, wild boar
and eagle owls in the Ardennes to the huge flocks of Limestone caves at Han-sur-Lesse
migratory birds that visit the coast. in the Belgian Ardennes

THE COAST RICH FARMLANDS AND POLDERS

Along Belgium’s North Sea shore, sandy Just inland from the coast, fertile arable land,
beaches slope gently to the sea, creating a interspersed with woodland, rises towards
long tidal reach. Resorts now line the coast, a central band. Grain, sugarbeet, vegetables
protected by high dykes, but the old dune and fruit are grown here. The Pajottenland,
landscapes at the eastern and western ends Hageland and Haspengouw regions pride
have been preserved as wildlife sanctuaries. themselves on their agricultural produce.

The pink-footed goose

The red squirrel
(Anser brachyrhynchus) is
(Sciurus vulgaris)
among the seasonal visitors
is seen around
to the coast, overwintering
the woodlands,
to the south of its breeding
where it nests in
grounds in the Arctic.
conifer trees.

Sea lavender (Limonium Rosebay willowherb, or

vulgare) dapples the dune fireweed (Epilobium
landscapes with mauve when angustifolium), is a
it flowers in summer. tough perennial that
lends colour to the
fringes of farmland.

The grey seal The brown hare (Lepus europaeus)

(Halichoerus grypus) likes open country, farmland and
lives in the North Sea, orchards. Living alone or in pairs,
and occasionally it feeds on grasses and twigs and
comes ashore. raises its young above ground.
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 21

DEPLETING WILDLIFE
It is estimated that between a third and a half
of Belgium’s animal species are threatened with
extinction. Twelve mammals are listed as either
Endangered, Vulnerable or Near Threatened
by the International Union for Conservation of
Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN). As ever,
the main causes of threat are loss of habitat,
climate change, the arrival of exotic predators
and pollution or other human activities that
cause disturbance. The red squirrel and European Bechstein’s bat The beluga whale
otter (Lutra lutra) are on the Near Threatened (Myotis bechsteinii) (D. leucas)
list, as is the European beaver (Castor fiber).
The garden dormouse (Eliomys quercinus) is listed as Vulnerable, along with four
species of bat. But the most threatened are the Cetaceans (whales, porpoises and
dolphins) in the North Sea. The harbour porpoise (Phocoena phocoena), sperm whale
(Physeter macrocephalus) and beluga or white whale (Delphinapterus leucas) are all
Vulnerable, while the northern right whale (Eubalaena glacialis) is Endangered.

FORESTED ARDENNES THE MOORS

The Ardennes cover most of southeastern Much of eastern Belgium is covered by
Belgium and the Oesling area of Luxembourg. heath and moorland. Large parts of the
Rivers thread through forested hills, with pock- Kempen (or Campine) region in the north
ets of farmland in the valleys and pastures on are sandy heathlands of heather and pine
open upland. To the south, the land drops woods. The wildest moors are the Hautes
away into the rural, wooded Gaume region. Fagnes in the upper Ardennes, east of Liège.

The European hedgehog

The western honey buzzard
(Erinaceus europaeus)
(Pernis apivorus) arrives in these
is an adaptable, mainly
forests during summer to breed.
nocturnal mammal
The bird’s name derives from its
found in heathland.
habit of eating the larvae from
wasp and hornet nests.

Harebells (Campanula
Honey mushroom
rotundifolia) are delicate
(Armillaria mellae) bell-shaped flowers that
is a forest fungus grow wild on the moors.
that lives on the
roots of trees.

The little bustard

Roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) (Tetrax tetrax) is a
are shy, solitary deer that live migratory bird that
in forests and pasture, eating breeds on heaths. The
grasses and shoots. The males male has a flamboy-
grow small antlers each year. ant mating display.
22 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Belgian Artists bustling 15th-century Bruges,

Hans Memling (c.1430–94) is
Belgian art rose to the fore when the region came considered the last Flemish
under Burgundian rule in the 15th century. Renaissance Primitive. Moving into the
painters produced strong works in oil, characterized 16th century, landscape artist
by intricate detail and lifelike, unidealized portraiture. Joachim Patinir (c.1480–1524)
Trade and artistic links with Italy provided a rich, produced the first European
industrial scenes.
mutual exchange of painting techniques in the per-
ennial quest to capture visual reality. In contrast,
during the 20th century, Belgium’s second golden THE BRUEGHEL
artistic age moved away from these goals, abandoning DYNASTY
reality for Surrealism in the work of artists such as
René Magritte. Brussels’s Musées Royaux des Beaux- In the early years of the 16th
Arts (see pp68–73), the Rubenshuis (see pp150–51) in century, Belgian art was
Antwerp and the museums around St-Martens-Latem strongly influenced by the
Italians. Trained in Rome,
(see pp136) are fine examples of the respect Belgium Jan Gossaert (c.1478–1532)
shows to its artists’ works, homes and contexts. brought mythological themes
to the art commissioned by
human existence in an the ruling dukes of Brabant.
animated manner. Van Eyck However, it was the prolific
is also responsible, with his Brueghel family who exer-
brother, for the striking polyp- cised the most influence on
tych altarpiece Adoration of Flemish art throughout the
the Mystic Lamb, displayed 16th and 17th centuries.
in St-Baafskathedraal (see Pieter Brueghel the Elder
pp132) in Ghent. (c.1525–69), one of the great-
The trademarks of the est Flemish artists, settled in
Flemish Primitives are a life- Brussels in 1563. His earthy
like vitality, enhanced by rustic landscapes of village
realism in portraiture, texture life, peopled with comic
of clothes and furnishings peasants, are a social study
and a clarity of light. A highly of medieval life and remain
expressive interpreter of the his best-known work. Pieter
style was the town painter Brueghel the Younger (1564–
of Brussels, Rogier van der 1636) produced religious
Portrait of Laurent Froimont by Weyden (c.1400–64), known works such as The Enrolment
Rogier van der Weyden in French as Rogier de la of Bethlehem (1610). In con-
Pasture. He combined van trast, Jan Brueghel the Elder
Eyck’s light and realism in (1568–1625) painted floral
THE FLEMISH PRIMITIVES paintings of great religious still-lifes with such a smooth
intensity such as Lamentation and detailed technique that
Art in Brussels and Flanders (see p72). His work was he earned the nickname
first attracted European extremely influential across Velvet Brueghel. His son, Jan
attention at the end of the Europe. Dirk Bouts (1415–75) Brueghel the Younger (1601–
Middle Ages. Jan van Eyck applied the style to his own 78) also became a court
(c.1395–1441) is believed to meticulous, if static, compo- painter in Brussels and a
be responsible for the major sitions. With his studies of landscape artist of note.
revolution in Flemish art.
Widely credited as the pio-
neer of oil painting, van Eyck
was the first artist to mix col-
our pigments for wood and
canvas and to use the oil
medium to fix longer-lasting
glazes. As works could now
be rendered more permanent,
these innovations spread
the Renaissance fashion for
panel paintings. However,
van Eyck was more than just
a practical innovator, and can
be seen as the forefather of
the Flemish Primitive school,
with his lively depictions of The Fall of Icarus by Pieter Brueghel the Elder
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 23

influence of other European

schools. The artist François- SURREALISM
Joseph Navez (1787–1869)
introduced Neo-Classicism to The 20th century began with
Flemish art. Brussels-based the emergence of Fauvism,
Antoine Wiertz (1806–65) as reflected in the charming
was considered a Romantic, portraits of Rik Wouters
but is also known for pro- (1882–1916), filled with bright
ducing melodramatic works, counter-intuitive colour.
such as the Inhumation Surrealism arrived in
Précipitée (c.1830). Realism Brussels in the mid-1920s,
took off with Constantin dominated from the start by
Meunier (1831–1905), a René Magritte (1898–1967),
noted sculptor of muscular who defined his disorientat-
coal miners and factory ing Surrealism as “[restoring]
Self Portrait by Rubens, one workers in bronze. Fernand the familiar to the strange”.
of many done by the artist Khnopff (1858–1921) was a More ostentatious and emo-
leading exponent of Belgian tional, Paul Delvaux (1897–
Symbolism, notable for his 1994) produced haunting,
THE ANTWERP ARTISTS portraits of menacing dreamlike scenes of skeletons,
and ambiguous trams and nudes. In 1948,
In the 17th century, the main women. Also on the COBRA Movement
centre of Belgian art moved a journey from promoted abstract art,
from Brussels, the social Naturalism to which gave way in
capital, to Antwerp, in the Expressionism was the 1960s to con-
heart of Flanders. This shift James Ensor (1860– ceptual art, led
was largely influenced by 1949), who often by installationist
Pieter Paul Rubens (1577– used eerie skeletons Marcel Broodthaers
1640), who lived in Antwerp. in his work, in a (1924–76), who used
Rubens was one of the first manner reminiscent daily objects, such
Flemish artists to become of the 15th-century Sculpture by as a casserole dish
known throughout Europe Netherlandish painter, Rik Wouters of mussels, for his
and in Russia. A court painter, Hieronymous Bosch. own interpretation.
he also served as a roving Between 1884 and 1894, the In recent years, Belgian art
diplomat abroad. Trained in artists’ cooperative Les XX has witnessed a resurgence,
Italy, he brought a unique (Les Vingt) brought together and a number of artists have
dynamism and swagger to painters, designers and made their mark on the
painting, which chimed well sculptors who reinvigorated international scene, notably
with the Baroque tastes of the Brussels art scene with Panamarenko (b. 1940), Luc
the Counter-Reformation. exhibitions of famous foreign Tuymans (b.1958) and Wim
Chief assistant in Rubens’s and avant-garde painters. Delvoye (b.1965).
busy studio was Anthony
van Dyck (1599–1641), the
second Antwerp artist to gain UNDERGROUND ART
European renown through Some 58 Brussels
his court portraiture. Another metro stations have
associate, Jacob Jordaens been decorated with
(1593–1678), is best known a combination of
for his joyous scenes of feast- murals, sculptures
ing, while David Teniers II and architecture by 54
(1610–90) found fame with Belgian artists. Only
pictures of Flemish life and the most devoted
founded the Royal Academy visitor to the city is
of Fine Art in Antwerp. likely to see them
Belgian artist Pol Bury, a noted member all, but there are sev-
of the avant-garde COBRA Movement eral notable works
THE EUROPEAN worth seeking out.
INFLUENCE Annessens was decorated by the Belgian COBRA artists,
Dotremont and Alechinsky. In the Bourse, Surrealist Paul
The influence of Rubens was Delvaux’s Nos Vieux Trams Bruxellois is still on show
so great that little innovation with Moving Ceiling, a series of 75 tubes that move in
took place in the Flemish art the breeze, by sculptor Pol Bury. At Horta station, Art
scene over the 18th century. Nouveau wrought-iron work from Victor Horta’s now
In the early years of the 19th destroyed People’s Palace is displayed, and Stockel is a
century, Belgian art was tribute to Hergé and his boy hero, Tintin (see pp24–5).
largely dominated by the
24 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Belgian Comic Strip Art

Belgian comic strip art is as much a his work before and during
part of Belgian culture as chocolates the war, as he expressed
and beer. The seeds of this great a strong sense of justice in
passion were sown when the US stories such as
comic strip Little Nemo was published King Ottakar’s
Sceptre, where
Tintin’s dog in French in 1908 to huge popular a fascist army
Snowy
acclaim in Belgium. The country’s repu- attempts to
tation for producing some of the best comic strip art control a cen-
in Europe was established after World War II. Before tral European
the war, Europe was awash with American comics, but state. Hergé
the Nazis halted the supply. Local artists took over, took great care Cover of
and found that there was a large audience who pre- in researching the Spirou

ferred homegrown comic heroes. This explosion in his books. For

the 1934 Le Lotus Bleu,
comic strip art was led by perhaps the most famous which was set in China, he
Belgian creation ever, Tintin, who, with his dog Snowy, wrote, “I started… showing a
is as recognizable across Europe as Mickey Mouse. real interest in the people and
countries I was sending Tintin
off to, concerned by a sense
made responsible for the of honesty to my readers.”
children’s supplement, Le petit
Vingtième. Eager to invent
an original comic, Hergé POST-WAR BOOM
came up with the character
of Tintin the reporter, who Belgium’s oldest comic strip
first appeared in Tintin au journal, Spirou, was launched
Pays des Soviets on 10 January in April 1938 and, along with
1929. Over the next 10 years, the weekly Journal de Tintin,
the character developed which began in 1946,
Hergé, the creator of Tintin and grew in popularity. became a hothouse for the
Book-length stories began artistic talent that was to
to appear from 1930. flourish during the post-
HERGÉ AND TINTIN During the Nazi war years. Many of the
occupation in the 1940s, country’s best-loved
Tintin’s creator, Hergé, Tintin continued to be characters were first
was born Georges Remi in published, with political seen in Spirou, and
Brussels in 1907. He began references carefully omit- most of them remain
using his pen name (a pho- ted, in the approved in print. Artists such
netic spelling of his initials paper, Le Soir. This led as Morris, Jijé, Peyo
in reverse) in 1924. At the to Hergé being accused and Roba worked on
age of 15, his drawings were of collaboration at the journal. In 1947,
published in the Boy Scout the end of the war. Statue of Tintin Morris (1923–2001)
Journal. He became the He was called in for and Snowy introduced the cow-
protégé of the priest, Abbot questioning but was boy parody Lucky
Norbert Wallez – who also released the same day with- Luke, which went on to
managed the Catholic journal out charge. His innocence feature in live-action films
Le XXe Siècle – and was was amply demonstrated by and US television cartoons.

COMIC STRIP
CHARACTERS
Some of the world’s most
loved comic strip charac-
ters originated in Belgium.
Tintin is the most famous,
but Lucky Luke the cow-
boy, Suske en Wiske the
cheeky children and The
Smurfs have been pub-
lished worldwide. Modern
artists such as Schuiten con-
tinue to break new ground. Tintin by Hergé Lucky Luke by Morris
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 25

During the 1960s, the idea of Wiske has been translated publishers issue over 22
the comic strip being the into English, appearing as Bob million comic books a year.
“ninth art” (after the seventh and Bobette in the UK and as Belgian cartoons are sold
and eighth – film and televi- Willy and Wanda in the US. in more than 30 countries.
sion) expanded to include The main characters are a pair
adult themes in the form of of “ordinary” kids between
the comic-strip graphic novel. 10 and 14 years of age who
have extraordinary adven-
tures all over the world, and
PEYO AND THE SMURFS also travel back and forth in
time. Today, Vandersteen’s
Best known for The Smurfs, books sell in their millions.
Peyo (1928–92) was also a
member of the team behind
the Spirou journal that pub- COMIC STRIP
lished his poetic medieval ART TODAY
series Johan et Pirlouit in
1952. The Smurfs appeared Comic strips, known as
as characters here – tiny blue beeldverhaal or bandes
people whose humorous dessinées, continue to be
foibles soon eclipsed any published in Belgium in all
interest in the strip’s their forms. In news-
main characters. papers, children’s
Reacting to their comics and graphic
popularity, Peyo novels the “ninth
created a strip solely art” remains one of Larger-than-life cartoon by Frank
about them. Set in the country’s biggest Pé adorning a Brussels building
the Smurf village, exports. The high
these stories were standards and imag-
infused with satirical inative scope of a STREET ART
social comment. The Modern cover new generation
Smurfs went on to by Marvano of artists, such as There are currently 30 large
become a craze Schuiten or Marvano, comic strip images decorat-
between 1983 and 1985, and have fed growing consumer ing the sides of buildings
were featured in advertizing demand for comic books. around Brussels’s city centre.
and merchandizing of every Both French and Dutch This outdoor exhibition is
type. They spawned a fea- known as the Comic Strip
ture-length film, television Route and is organized by
cartoons and popular music, the Belgian Centre for Comic
and had several hit records. Strip Art, or the Centre Belge
de la Bande Dessineé (see
p62), and by the city of
WILLY VANDERSTEEN Brussels. Begun in 1991 as a
tribute to Belgium’s talent for
While the artists of Spirou comic strip art, this street art
and Tintin filled the French- project continues to grow. A
language journals, Willy free map of the route is avail-
Vandersteen (1913–90) domi- able from tourist information
nated the Dutch market. His Contemporary comic strip artists offices, as well as from the
popular creation, Suske en at work in their studio comic museum itself.

Suske en Wiske by Vandersteen The Smurfs by Peyo A contemporary cartoon strip by Schuiten
26 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Belgian Tapestry and Lace

For over six centuries, Belgian tapestry and
lace have been highly prized luxury crafts.
Originating in Flanders in the 12th century,
tapestry has since been handmade in the
centres of Tournai, Brussels, Oudenaarde
and Mechelen. The lace trade was prac-
Lace-maker’s tised from the 16th century onwards in
studio sign all Belgian provinces. Bruges and Brussels
in particular were renowned for their
delicate work. The makers of this finery often had aris-
tocratic patrons, as grand tapestries and intricate lace Tapestry weavers numbered
were status symbols of the nobility and staple exports over 50,000 in Flanders from
throughout Europe from the 15th to the 18th century. 1450 to 1550. With the dukes
Today, Belgium remains home to the very best tapestry of Burgundy as patrons, hang-
and lace studios in the world. ings grew more elaborate.

Tapestry designs involve the

weaver and artist working closely
together. Painters, including
Rubens, produced drawings for
sets of six or more tapestries
illustrating grand themes.

The texture of the weave was

the finest ever achieved – often
5 threads to a cm (12 per inch).
TAPESTRY
By 1200, the town of Tournai and nearby
Arras (now in France) were known as
centres of weaving across Europe. Prized
by the nobility, tapestries were portable
and could be moved with the court as
rulers travelled over their estates. As trade
grew, techniques were refined. Real gold
and silver were threaded into the fine wool,
again increasing the value. Blending Italian
idealism with Flemish realism, Bernard van
Orley (1492–1542) revolutionized tapestry
designs, as in The Battle of Pavia, the
first of a series. Flemish weavers were
eventually lured across Europe, and this
Weavers working today in Mechelen and Tournai transfer of skill led to the success of the
still use medieval techniques to produce contem- Gobelins factory in Paris that finally stole
porary tapestry, woven to modern designs. Flanders’s crown in the late 1700s.
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 27

Lace trade rose to the

fore during the early
Renaissance. Emperor
Charles V decreed that
lace-making should be
a compulsory skill for
girls in convents and
béguinages (see p61)
throughout Flanders.
Lace became fashion-
able on collars and
cuffs for both sexes.
Trade reached a peak
in the 18th century.

The Battle of Pavia (1525)

is an example of the com-
plex themes that were
popular for tapestry series.

Lace-makers, creating
intricate work by hand,
are traditionally women.
Although their numbers
are dwindling, many
craftswomen still work in
Bruges and Brussels, the
centres of bobbin lace.

The Victorian fashion for lace

triggered a revival of the craft
after its decline in the austere
Neo-Classical period. Although
men no longer wore it, the use
of lace as a ladies’ accessory
and in soft furnishing led to
its renewed popularity.

Belgian lace is bought

today mainly as a souvenir.
Despite competition from the
machine-made lace of other
countries, the quality here
still remains as fine as it
was in the Renaissance.
28 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Architecture
Throughout its history, Belgium’s international bonds have
linked it to the changing trends of European architecture.
It was first influenced by Romans, then by the Christian
Church and later by styles from across trans-European
trade routes. Belgian architecture mirrored trends in Italy
and France, moving from Romanesque through Gothic
to Baroque and Neo-Classical. However, it always added
its own distinctive touches, as seen in the robust muscu-
larity of Scheldt Gothic, in the graceful Brabant Gothic
and in the Flamboyant Gothic of town halls. In the 1890s,
Belgian architects pioneered the Art Nouveau style.

St-Romboutskathedraal in
Mechelen is a masterpiece
of Brabant Gothic. After
three centuries, work ceased
suddenly in 1546, leaving
the tower unfinished.

St-Niklaaskerk in Ghent (see

pp132–3) was built between the
13th and 15th centuries in
the austere and elegant Scheldt
(or Scaldian) Gothic.

1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

ROMANESQUE GOTHIC
1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

The Collégiale Ste-Gertrude

(built 1046) at Nivelles is in Cathédrale Sts-Michel-et-
the Romanesque style called Gudule (see p63) is con-
Ottonian, with the high, tur- structed mainly in the
reted Westbau (see p199) Brabant Gothic style of the
forming a second transept. 14th and 15th centuries.

The Stadhuis in Leuven (see p160)

was built between 1448 and 1463
and is the most magnificent exam-
ple of a secular Flamboyant Gothic
building in Belgium. Its façades are
encrusted with elaborate stonework
of lace-like intricacy, and hun-
dreds of fine statues and carvings.
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 29

Antwerp’s Stadhuis (built 1561–4),

shows how Renaissance architec-
ture was adapted with creative
swagger to produce a Flemish
Renaissance style. This is
seen particularly in the
crest of its centrepiece,
with sculpture and
gilding adding flair
to the Classical col-
umns and pediment. Maison St Cyr (see
p75), a private man-
sion in Brussels, is
an extravagant
example of Art
Nouveau architec-
ture. Designed by
the 25-year-old
architect Gustave
Strauven and com-
pleted in 1903, its
swirling ironwork
is characteristic of
this “new art” that
The Grand Place in Brussels (see p56–7) made no reference
is lined with guildhouses that were to any architectural
St-Carolus
Borromeuskerk in
rebuilt after 1695 in the Baroque style that had come
Antwerp was the manner. This style was an exuberant before it.
first Baroque elaboration of Renaissance forms.
church in Belgium.

1500 1600 1700 1800 1900

RENAISSANCE BAROQUE NEO-CLASSICAL ECLECTIC ART NOUVEAU
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900
Kasteel Ooidonk,
built in 1595 as a The St-Servaasbasiliek at
grand country resi- Grimbergen, built between 1660
dence in Flemish and 1725, is one of the great
Renaissance style, Baroque churches of Belgium,
shows Spanish a bold, triumphant expression
influence in its of the Counter-Reformation.
bulb-shaped spires.

The Oude Griffie in

Bruges was built
in Renaissance
style over 1534–7.
Its rectangular
windows and
Classical columns
The 14th-century belfry of Tournai,
represented a com-
with a carillon of 43 bells
plete break from
the pointed arches BELFRIES
of the Gothic style.
A symbol of civic pride, the
town belfry was used in
medieval times to sound an
alarm bell as well as to mark
The Théatre the passing of hours. Belfries
Royale de la are built with spiral staircases
Monnaie in that lead up through strong
Brussels, was rooms where the city charters
built in Neo- were kept, and then to the
Classical style bell lofts and lookout posi-
in 1819 and tions. Belgium’s belfries are
resembles a UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Greek temple.
30 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

Castles and Châteaux

Belgium has the distinction of having more castles
in a given area than any other country in Europe.
Luxembourg might come a close second. These cas-
tles range from romantic medieval ruins and stern
fortresses built for defence, to the 19th-century
fantasy palaces of the super-rich. Today, many
of the grander châteaux remain in private hands.
However, there are plenty that admit visitors on a
regular basis, providing a fascinating opportunity
to explore the secular architecture of both coun- Vianden castle (see p251) rising above
tries’ often tumultuous past from the inside. the forested hills of Luxembourg

MEDIEVAL CASTLES
Throughout the medieval period, Viking invasions
and constant squabbles between rival duchies made
it essential for ruling nobles to protect their interests
with robust fortresses. The castles that survived have
undergone numerous transformations, but still bear
witness to the age of the siege-ladder and catapult.

Exposed causeway crossing

Corner towers the moat to the front gate
protecting the
castle’s flanks
Lavaux-Ste-Anne (see
p211) is a magnifi-
cent feudal castle,
dating from the
13th century
and fortified
anew in the
15th century. Kasteel van Beersel (see p164), built
It now contains in the 14th century, has a moat and
a museum on three towers facing an inner court-
nature and yard. It was partly destroyed in 1489,
rural life. but reconstructed in the 20th century.

RENAISSANCE CHATEAUX
After the arrival of gunpowder and cannons in
the 14th century, medieval fortifications gradually
became less effective. During the relatively more
stable rule of the Spanish Netherlands in the late
16th century, rich aristrocrats felt confident enough
to build grand châteaux with large windows.
However, they still kept an eye on the defences.

Château de Jehay (see p220), another

16th-century fortress, features turrets and
Kasteel Ooidonk (see p137), dating from the late 16th a moat. The castle was brought up to date
century, shows influences from the Italian Renaissance. in style during the 18th century, but the
This is overlaid by the distinctive Hispano-Flemish style interior shows traces of the Renaissance
of the Spanish Netherlands, as seen in the exotic roof. trend towards private, aristocratic life.
 A PORTRAIT OF BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 31

17TH-CENTURY FORTRESSES
Armies in this era often adapted medieval
castles for defence against powerful artillery.
A key figure was the French military architect
Marquis de Vauban, who travelled through
the Low Countries with Louis XIV’s forces. He
upgraded the castles of Namur and Bouillon,
which had military roles into the 20th century.

Château-Fort de Bouillon (see pp232–3), on

a rock by the River Semois, was the strong-
The Citadelle de Namur (see p202) was built on a hold of the crusader Godefroid de Bouillon.
hilltop site used since Neolithic times. It was fortified Vauban’s work can be seen in the inner
by the Romans and rebuilt in succeeding centuries. courtyards and defensive wall positions.

18TH-CENTURY CHATEAUX
Belgium suffered during the wars of the Spanish
and Austrian empires, but châteaux reflected less
the imperatives of defence and more the status
and taste of their owners. The main stylistic influ-
ence was French, but only Château Beloeil (see
p186) begins to match the grandeur of Versailles.
Large French-
Corner towers reflect
style windows
military priorities

Château d’Attre (see p185), built 1752, has

preserved its original interior, a rare achieve-
ment as wars, economic fluctuations and
modernization have left few others intact.

Annevoie’s famous
gardens (see p204),
with their fountains
and waterfalls, reflect
Alden Biesen (see p168) was owned by the German the 18th-century
Order of the Teutonic Knights. The grim exterior taste for artistically
expresses their military heritage, while luxurious landscaped nature
rooms match their reputation for extravagance. around grand houses.

19TH-CENTURY Large windows

Romantic roofline of
NEO-MEDIEVALISM decorative turrets
with river views
Wealthy aristocrats and
newly-rich industrialists
built fantasy castles, as
they sought to combine
modern comforts with
romanticized notions of
past grandeur. Sometimes
they converted medieval
castles such as Gaasbeek
(see p165), often with some
of the most lavish interiors. 19th-century Kasteel van Bornem (see p156), built in a medieval style
32 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

THROUGH THE YEAR
C ome rain or shine,
Belgium has a robust
calendar of public
events. Some of these are
historical parades with
figures around the streets.
New celebrations, parti-
cularly music festivals, are
also promoted with vigour
and become quickly estab-
centuries of tradition lished. The summer months
behind them and many are Musicians in medieval
in particular, are thick with
connected to religion, costume at the Ommegang outdoor concerts performed
marking saints’ days and on stages erected in town
other Christian festivals. Armies of squares. The events are held in the
volunteers turn out in historic cos- same spirit of public fun that
tumes and haul vast caricature giants the Flemish artist Brueghel captured
that represent biblical or mythological in his paintings almost 500 years ago.

SPRING

There may be a chill in the

air even as snowdrops and
daffodils emerge, and the odd
brisk snap can freeze canals,
pleasing skaters. Crisp sunny
days are ideal for visitors to
explore the cities on foot and
sample delicious Easter treats.

MARCH

Bal du Rat Mort (Sat, early The Holy Blood relic, carried through Bruges by two prelates
Mar), Oostende. The Dead
Rat Ball, a fancy-dress event, APRIL were thrown off the cloth-hall
named after a Montmartre tower. This is re-enacted once
cabaret in Paris, has been Serres Royales (variable), in three years with cloth cats.
held for over a century. Laeken. The greenhouses of Kites International (early
Mid-Lenten Carnival (4th Sun the royal palace are open May), Ostend. Demonstrations
of Lent), Stavelot. The Laetare to the public for 12 days. by kite masters from all over
Procession has the traditional Ronde van Vlaanderen (early Europe take place at this
Blancs-Moussis (White-Clad) Apr), Flanders. One of the annual event.
revellers in hooded robes five Monuments of European Jazz Marathon (weekend,
and long red noses. professional cycling. late May), Brussels. Jazz fills
Easter (variable), nationwide. Gentse Floraliën (late Apr), the city’s squares and cafés.
Children hunt for hidden Ghent. This vast garden
Easter eggs brought, accord- festival fills halls every five
ing to folklore, from Rome years in Ghent, the heart of SUMMER
by the church bells. the horticulture industry.
With longer days and warmer
MAY weather, summer has always
been the most favourable
Hanswijk Processie (Sun prior time for pageants and pro-
to Ascension Day), Mechelen. cessions. These months are
Costumed parades accom- busy with a variety of excel-
pany a revered 1,000-year- lent outdoor music festivals.
old statue of the Virgin Mary.
Processie van het Heilig Bloed JUNE
(Ascension Day), Mechelen.
An 800-year-old pageant cel- Festival van Vlaanderen
ebrating the Holy Blood relic. (Jun–Dec), Flanders. The
A riot of blossoms welcoming the Kattefeest (2nd Sun, 2012), region showcases its high-
spring season at Serres Royales Ieper. In the Midde Ages, cats quality music and dance.
 BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG THROUGH THE YEAR 33

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Climate

Belgium and
Hours Luxembourg have a
10 fairly temperate north-
ern European climate.
8
Although not often
6
freezing, winters are
chilly and a heavy
4 coat is required.
Summers can be
2 pleasantly warm
though a jersey might
0
still be needed in the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
evenings. Rainwear is
always a necessity.

Ducasse de Mons (Trinity Guldensporendag (11 July), Boetprocessie (last Sun),

Sun), Mons. Dating from Flanders. The anniversary of Veurne. The Procession of the
1380, the festival displays the the Battle of the Golden Spurs Penitents is a solemn affair,
reliquary shrine of St Waudru in 1302 is a Flemish holiday, and follows a 450-year-old
of Mons in the Procession of marked by a variety of events. folkloric tradition (see p123).
the Golden Chariot. It cul- Cactusfestival (2nd weekend),
minates in the Battle of Bruges. Minnewater Park’s AUGUST
Lumeçon between St George respected rock festival
and the Dragon. attracts some big names in Meyboom (9 Aug), Brussels.
Les Journées des Quatre spite of its low-key approach. Giant figures are joyously
Cortèges (2nd weekend), Dour Festival (Thu–Sun, paraded to witness the plant-
Tournai. Folkloric giants mid-Jul), near Mons. This is ing of a meyboom (may tree).
take to the streets in a 20-year-old rock festival Tapis de Fleurs (mid-Aug),
four traditional parades. with an eclectic set Brussels. In even-numbered
Battle of Waterloo re- of programmes. years, the Grand Place is car-
enactments (variable), Gentsefeesten peted in flowers for four days.
Waterloo. A major (3rd week), Praalstoet van de Gouden
re-enactment marks Ghent. This Boom (late Aug, 2012),
the anniversary festival is a ten- Bruges. The Pageant of the
of the battle every day party, mixing Golden Tree is held every five
five years, but Dynamic performance street theatre and years in 15th-century costume
smaller events at the Gentsefeesten acrobatics with evoking the city’s golden age.
take place around music concerts. Reiefeest (21–31 Aug, 2011),
18 June every year. Klinkers (late Jul–early Aug), Bruges. Theatrical scenes are
Bruges. Rock and pop con- performed every three years
JULY certs take place in bars, cafés by the River Reie, to cele-
and the two main squares. brate the city’s history.
Ommegang (1st Tue–Thu), Foire du Midi (mid-Jul–mid- Ducasse (4th Fri–Mon), Ath.
Brussels. Said to date from Aug), Brussels. Fairground This procession has folkloric
1549, this grand ommegang rides and shooting galleries figures such as Monsieur and
(walk-around) involves 1,400 fill the Boulevard du Midi, Madame Gouyasse (Goliath)
participants dressed as stilt- along with food stands wel- and includes Belgium’s most
walkers, Renaissance nobles, coming the shellfish season. celebrated parade of giants.
guildsmen, soldiers, flag-
throwers, musicians and
acrobats. All parade through
the Grand Place before the
nobility seated on a rostrum.
Rock Werchter (1st weekend),
near Leuven. This four-day
outdoor rock festival has
gained international fame and
attracts a line-up of top acts.
Zevenjaarlijkse Kronings-
feesten (early July, 2016),
Tongeren. The Seven-yearly
Crowning Festival has a pro-
cession of 4,000 costumed
people, crowning a 15th-
century statue of the Virgin. Millions of flowers in intricate designs at the spectacular Tapis de Fleurs
34 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

Rainfall chart
MM Inches On the whole,
300 12
Belgium and
240
Luxembourg are
9 rather rainy
180 countries, with
6 fairly constant low
120 rainfall throughout
3 the year. Spring is
60
the driest season,
0
but summers can
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec be damp. In winter,
the rain may turn
into snow and sleet.

the pilgrimage season at the

renowned Marian shrine in
Scherpenheuvel (see p162).
St Verhaegen Day (20 Nov),
Brussels. Students celebrate
“Saint” Pierre-Théodore
Verhaegen – founder of
the original city university –
with madcap antics, often
on public transport.

DECEMBER

Feast of St Nicholas (6 Dec),

nationwide. The 4th-century
Cars battling for advantage at the Belgian Grand Prix Bishop of Myra, St Nicholas,
parades with Zwarte Peter,
with events such as a battle or Père Fouettard, who
AUTUMN of échasseurs (stilt-walkers) threatens to whip naughty
in 17th-century costumes. children. It is a day of gift-
September can be pleasantly giving and eating speculoos,
warm, but with a hint of chill OCTOBER traditional spiced biscuits.
in the air. As the crisp days
become shorter, restaurants Flanders Film Festival JANUARY
serve warming game dishes. (variable), Ghent. This
12-day international festival Driekoningendag/Fête des
SEPTEMBER is respected for its range of Rois (6 Jan), nationwide.
films and focus on film music. Epiphany celebrates the visit
Grand Prix of Belgium (1st of the Three Kings to Christ’s
Sun), Spa-Francorchamps. nativity. The recipient of a
Formula One racing returned WINTER trinket baked into an almond
to this popular circuit in 2007 cake gets a paper crown.
after a gap of four years. The Christmas markets that
Grande Procession (2nd start in early December bring
Sun), Tournai. A costumed a glow of good cheer, but
procession, first held in 1092 carnival parades, the most
after the passing of a plague, exuberant public celebrations,
accompanies St Eleutherius’s are the real showpieces.
reliquary and other church
treasures through the city. NOVEMBER
Journées du Patrimoine/Open
Monumentendagen (2nd or Toussaint/Allerheiligendag
3rd week), nationwide. The (1 Nov), nationwide. All
annual Heritage Days are a Saints’ Day, or the Day of the
rare chance to explore many Dead, is when family graves
private historic buildings. are decorated with flowers.
Fêtes de Wallonie (3rd Kaarskensprocessie (Sun after
weekend), Namur. Wallonia’s 1 Nov), Scherpenheuvel. A
role in the 1830 revolution solemn candlelit procession The traditional Christmas market
(see pp44–5) is celebrated is the culminating point of held in Brussels’s Grand Place
 BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG THROUGH THE YEAR 35

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE Temperature chart

°C °F This chart gives the
30 85 average maximum
and miminum tem-
24 75
peratures for Belgium
18 65
and Luxembourg.
Although generally
12 55 mild, winters can
sometimes be bitter,
6 45 especially on higher
ground in the
-1 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Ardennes and when
northeasterly winds
blow across the plains.

Ronsense Bommelfeesten
(Sat after 6 Jan), Ronse. This
“festival of fools” centres on
a parade of knock-about
characters called Bommels.

FEBRUARY

Carnival (Thu–Shrove Tue),

nationwide. The weekend
before Lent is marked by par-
ades in many cities. Eupen Participants at the Sprangprëssessioun, Echternach’s dancing parade
celebrates the arrival of His
Madness, Prince of Carnival, LUXEMBOURG THROUGH THE YEAR
and Rosenmontag (Rose
Monday). Masked folkloric Liichtmesdag (2 Feb), dancers spring past the
figures called haguètes grab nationwide. In medieval tomb of St Willibrord, the
onlookers with huge pincers times, the poor asked for founder of the abbey here.
in Malmedy, while Aalst has food on St Blasius’s day. National Holiday (23 Jun),
satirical floats followed by Today, children with lan- nationwide. Municipal func-
Voil Jeannetten (Dirty Jennies) terns carry on the tradition tions and parties mark the
in male drag. The best-known by begging for treats. birthday of Grand Duchess
carnival, at Binche, is a sea Carnival (Sun before Shrove Charlotte (r.1919–64).
of parading gilles, or bizarrely Tue), nationwide. Parades International Festival
costumed jesters (see p190). take place in many towns. of Music (May–Jun),
Krakelingenstoet (last Sun), Diekirch’s has donkeys, the Echternach. A notable
Geraardsbergen. A costumed town’s mascot, while at festival of classical and jazz
parade is followed by throw- Remich, stréimännchen music, drawing top names.
ing krakelingen (ring-shaped (straw guys) are set alight Open-air Festival of Theatre
pastries) into the crowd, and cast into the Moselle. and Music (weekends in
recalling a 14th-century event. Buergsonndeg (Sun after Jul), Wiltz. This offers a
Shrove Tue), nationwide. varied programme of opera,
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS In an ancient tradition of music and dance in an out-
buergbrennen (bonfire door theatre (see p310).
New Year’s Day (1 Jan) burning), fires are lit on Schueberfouer (Aug/Sep),
Easter Sunday (variable) hilltops to drive out winter. Luxembourg City. This
Easter Monday (variable) Éimaischen (Easter Mon), modern descendant of a
Labour Day (1 May) Nospelt and Luxembourg medieval shepherds’ mar-
Ascension Day (variable) City. Pottery is a key feature ket is known for serving
Whit Sunday (variable) at this folk fair. Visitors take traditional food and drink.
Whit Monday (variable) back péckvillchen, or bird- Grape and Wine Festival
Luxembourg’s National shaped cuckoo-whistles. (2nd weekend in Sep),
Day (23 Jun) Octave (late Apr), Grevenmacher. Held as
Belgian National Luxembourg City. Pilgrims thanksgiving for the grape
Day (21 Jul) parade to the cathedral in harvest, the merrymaking
Assumption Day (15 Aug) honour of a statue of Maria starts with the coronation
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov) Consolatrix Afflictorum. of the Queen of Grapes
Armistice Day (11 Nov) Sprangprëssessioun (Whit and culminates in floats
Christmas (25 Dec) Tue), Echternach. Ranks of offering free wine.
 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 37

THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM

B
oth a young country and a very old one, Belgium won
independence for the first time in 1830, but owes its name to
Gallic tribes who confronted the Romans in 58 BC. Its location
on the crossroads of northern Europe made it both a hub of inter-
national trade and the battlefield for contending nations. Today, its
position has brought new benefits, at the heart of the European Union.

When Julius Caesar set out to Scheldt. Louis the German, as

conquer the Gauls of west- King of East Francia, took
ern Europe in 58 BC, he the southern portion called
encountered a fierce group Lotharingia (Lorraine). This
of tribes there, known as included the Walha (later,
the Belgae. Roman victory the Walloons) – Romanized
in the region led to the Celts who occupied the
establishment of the province Meuse valley. Charles the
of Gallia Belgica. Following Seal of Charles the Bald, Bald, King of West Francia,
the collapse of the Roman King of West Francia took the western portion,
Empire in the 5th century, which encompassed a large
the Germanic Franks came to power chunk of Flanders. The French claim
here, initially making Tournai, in to Flanders would haunt the region
modern-day Wallonia, their capital. for the next 600 years.
The Frankish ruler Clovis I estab-
lished the Merovingian dynasty FLOURISHING TRADE
(AD 481–751), whose empire soon From about 1100 onwards, a number
encompassed all of Gaul. During of fortified trading cities developed
this time, Christianity was spread on inland waterways. Flanders
across the land by missionaries such became the focus of the cloth trade,
as the French saint Eligius in weaving high-quality wool imported
Flanders. The Merovingians were from England into valuable textiles
followed by the Carolingian dynasty and tapestries. By the late medieval
(751–987), which produced one of period (14th century), trade routes
the most important figures of the led to France, Germany and Spain,
Middle Ages – Charlemagne, who and over the Alps to Renaissance
extended his borders to cover most Italy. Belgian towns such as Brussels,
of western Europe and was crowned Ghent, Ieper, Antwerp and Bruges
by the pope as Emperor of the West. became famous for their wealth and
After Charlemagne’s death, the luxury. Their elaborate town halls,
empire was divided up among his belfries and market squares were
grandsons, and the province of physical symbols of their wealth,
Belgium was split along the River pride and sense of independence.

TIMELINE Charlemagne (768–814)

58–50 BC The Belgae 860 France makes 1099 During the First Crusade,
are defeated by Julius Baldwin Iron-Arm the Godefroid de Bouillon (see
Caesar and Roman first Count of Flanders p233) becomes the first ruler
occupation begins of the Kingdom of Jerusalem

AD 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200

AD 460–86 843 Charlemagne’s 979 Official 1134 A storm creates
Tournai serves Belgium is divided founding of the Zwin, a tidal inlet,
as capital of the along the Scheldt: Brussels giving Bruges access
Franks, until Flanders goes to France to the North Sea
Clovis I moves and Lotharingia to Coat of arms of the
it to Paris Louis the German Kingdom of Jerusalem

Charles the Bold (1433–77) in Rules and Ordinances of the Order of the Golden Fleece, a 15th-century vellum
38 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

French took their revenge

with a crushing victory at the
Battle of Cassel, just south
of Dunkirk in present-day
France, in 1328.
These tensions continued
throughout the Hundred
Years’ War between England
and France. In 1338, it was
Ghent’s turn to rebel, with a
vain attempt to make Edward
the Black Prince (son of
Edward III of England) the
Count of Flanders. The revolt
descended into anarchy in
A 19th-century painting of the Battle of the Golden Spurs
1345 and the new Count of
THE CRAFTSMEN’S REBELLION Flanders, Louis de Male (r.1346–84),
France held sway over its northeastern reasserted French control.
territory through the counts of Flanders
and an aristocracy loyal to the French THE HOUSE OF BURGUNDY
crown. The trading cities, run by The Duchy of Burgundy had been a
guilds and wealthy merchants, tussled major force in European politics since
endlessly for the right to control their AD 843, and its dukes had close links
interests, and won varying degrees of to the French throne. In 1369, Philip,
autonomy through the award of Duke of Burgundy, married Margaret,
precious town charters. daughter of Louis de Male. When
The late 13th and early 14th centuries the latter died in 1384, the House of
witnessed a series of rebellions by Burgundy took over the title of Count
the craftsmen of Bruges, Brussels and of Flanders, along with a patchwork
Ghent, against the tyranny of the of possessions in the Low Countries.
French lords. On the morning of 18 The dukes of Burgundy gradually
May 1302, Flemish rebels in Bruges – consolidated their rule in the Low
led by Pieter de Coninck, a weaver, Countries, adding Limburg in 1396
and Jan Breydel, a butcher – slaugh-
tered their French oppressors in an
organized uprising that became
known euphemistically as the Bruges
Matins. Encouraged by this, Flemish
troops, armed only with lances and
spears, took on and defeated the might
of the French cavalry at Groeninge,
near Kortrijk, on 11 July. This victory
became known as the Battle of the
Golden Spurs, after the French spurs
that were exhibited in triumph in Duke Philip the Good of Burgundy and his court, a
the Kortrijk cathedral. However, the miniature painted by Rogier van der Weyden in 1447

TIMELINE

1302 The Bruges Matins revolt 1328 France

is followed by the Battle of the reasserts control
Golden Spurs – Flemish forces over Flanders after Brass effigy of Edward the
defeat French cavalry the Battle of Cassel Black Prince (1330–76)

1300 1325 1350 1375

1338 Flemish towns become 1384 On the death of
allied to England in the Hundred Louis de Male, his
Years’ War Flemish possessions
pass to his son-in-law,
Breydel and Coninck, 1337 Start of the Hundred Years’ the Duke of Burgundy
leaders of the Bruges War between England and France
Matins revolt
 THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 39

and the Duchy of Brabant

(which included Brussels)
in 1404. Under Philip the
Good (r.1419–67), Flanders
entered a golden age. Philip
was the richest man in
Europe and his court was
one of the most fashionable
and celebrated of the time.
In 1429, Bruges became the
capital of Burgundy. For over
a century, it had been an
important trading city, with a
population similar to that of
Death of Charles the Bold depicted by Eugene Delacroix in 1831
London and Paris. It had a
resident international community, THE TURNING POINT
with Italian bankers as well as mer- Philip’s son and successor, Charles
chants from England, Scotland, Spain, (r.1467–77) used strong-arm tactics
Germany, Genoa and Venice. Paintings that earned him the sobriquets
by the city’s artists, including those Charles the Bold and Charles the
by Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling, Rash. He captured Dinant in 1466
bear witness to the extraordinary and Liège in 1468. That same year he
riches of the well-to-do classes in was married for the third time, to
clothing, jewellery and furnishings. Margaret of York, sister of Edward IV
Ruling from his Prinsenhof palace, of England. Their wedding celebra-
Philip the Good created the idealistic tion in Bruges was one of the most
Order of the Golden Fleece (a spectacular feasts of medieval Europe.
reference to the wool trade). This However, Charles overreached
order of chivalry was dedicated himself. In his bid to conquer all
to St Andrew and brought of Lorraine, he was defeated
many of the kings and lead- and killed at the Battle of
ing nobles of Europe to Nancy, and, as a result, lost
Bruges to iron out their the Burgundian holdings in
disputes. In 1441, Philip the France. His only direct heir
Good acquired the Duchy was his daughter, 20-year-
of Luxembourg. The only old Mary, who now became
gap that now remained in ruler of the remaining
the Burgundian possessions Burgundian territories in the
was the central band of terri- Low Countries. Louis XI of
tory along the River Meuse, Mary of Burgundy France hoped to marry his
belonging to the Bishopric (1457–82) son to Mary of Burgundy, but
of Liège, which included her stepmother, Margaret
Dinant and Tongeren. Yet, even here, of York, had other plans. In 1477,
Philip managed to exert control Mary was married to the Habsburg
by installing his protégé Louis Archduke Maximilian of Austria,
of Bourbon as prince-bishop. son of the Holy Roman Emperor.

Philip the Good and Isabella

1477 Death of
1468 Charles the Charles the Bold;
1430 Philip the Good Bold, Duke his daughter Mary
marries Isabella of of Burgundy, marries Maximilian
Portugal, his third wife seizes Liège of Austria
1400 1425 1450 1475
1419 Philip the
Good succeeds 1425 Foundation of
as Duke the University
of Burgundy of Leuven
Tomb of Charles the Bold
in Bruges’s cathedral
40 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

THE HABSBURG DYNASTY France to surrender his

Mary of Burgundy had two claim to Flanders. This
children before she died, was the result of a series
leaving Maximilian and the of battles – mainly for
Habsburg dynasty the rul- the control of Italy –
ers of Burgundy. Maximilian including that of Pavia in
began to raise taxes and which François I was cap-
tried to reduce privileges tured. However, Charles’s
that had been granted by empire was costly to run,
Mary to secure the support and in 1539, Ghent rose
of the cities. By 1488, Maximillian of Austria with Mary up against heavy taxa-
Flanders was in revolt. and their family, painted in 1516 tion and conscription.
Bruges made the critical Charles brutally crushed
error of holding Maximilian prisoner this rebellion in his native city, forc-
in a house in the main square. ing its leaders to parade before him
Maximilian exacted his revenge on the in only shirts, with a noose around
city by transferring power to Ghent. their necks. Stroppendragers (noose-
At this time, Antwerp also began to bearers) is still a nickname for the
rise as a leading commercial centre. people of Ghent. Meanwhile, the
In 1494, Maximilian passed his rule of Reformation, begun by Martin Luther
the Low Countries to his son, Philip in Germany, had started to arouse
the Handsome. Philip married Joanna serious religious conflict. Its ideas
of Castile two years later, and their took rapid hold in the Low Countries
first son, Charles, was born in Ghent and by the 1520s, Protestant converts
in 1500. While his parents ruled in in the region were being burnt at the
Spain, Charles was raised by his aunt, stake. Charles V abdicated in 1555. In
Empress Margaret of Austria, who
acted as Regent of the Low Countries
and moved the capital to Mechelen.

SPANISH RULE
In 1516, Charles inherited the Spanish
throne and in 1519, he became the
Holy Roman Emperor as Charles V.
He was now master of a major
empire that spanned much of Europe,
and also included new overseas pos-
sessions in the Americas and East
Asia. Nevertheless, he considered
Flanders – under the governorship of
his sister, Mary – his real home. The
Low Countries prospered with land
reclamation, canal-building and the
expansion of industries producing
pottery, glass, tapestry and linen. In Tapestry depicting the Battle of Pavia in 1525 between
1529, Charles V forced François I of Francis I of France and the Hapsburg emperor Charles V

TIMELINE Desiderius Erasmus

1506 Margaret of Austria 1521 Erasmus helps 1539 A rebellion in Ghent

moves the Burgundian found the College is brutally crushed by
capital from Brussels of Three Languages Charles V, and its leaders
to Mechelen at Leuven publicly humiliated
1500 1520 1540
1519 Charles V, 1529 France is 1555 Catholic Philip II
King of Spain, forced to abandon succeeds Charles V as
becomes Holy its claim Protestant fervour takes
Roman Emperor to Flanders hold of the Low Countries

Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor

 THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 41

The Triumph of the Archduchess Isabella, by Dennis van Alsloot, detailing a procession through Brussels in 1615

doing so, he fractured the empire’s Protestant forces gained ground in the
unity, leaving the Holy Roman Empire 1570s, until troops loyal to Spain and
to his brother Ferdinand and all other led by the Duke of Parma regained
dominions, which included the Low control over 1578–85. Philip’s ambi-
Countries, to his devoutly Catholic tion to crush Protestantism was only
son, Philip II of Spain. Philip’s perse- curbed when the English defeated the
cution of Protestants finally sparked Spanish Armada in 1588.
the Revolt of the Netherlands (the
Eighty Years’ War), led by the House THE COUNTER-REFORMATION
of Orange. Protestant rebel leaders In 1598, Philip’s daughter, Isabella,
were mockingly labelled gueux or and her husband, the Archduke
geuzen (beggars), but the “sea beg- Albert, became rulers of the Spanish
gars” started an effective campaign of Netherlands. Their war on Protestants
naval raids that disrupted shipping. caused tens of thousands to flee north
Protestant iconoclasts made their mark across the Scheldt estuary to the
by smashing and vandalizing church United Provinces of the Netherlands,
decorations that offended their sense which had declared independence
of spiritual purity. A wealth of medie- from Spain in 1585. The Low Countries
val sculptures, paintings and treasures had essentially split along this reli-
were destroyed during this time. gious divide. Peace intervened briefly
The Duke of Alba, Governor of the after 1609 as, launched by the Council
Netherlands, responded of Trent, the Counter-
with a campaign of harsh Reformation turned the
retribution, in which he tide for Catholicism.
was assisted by the much Isabella and Albert over-
feared Inquisition. Some saw a glorious rise in the
8,000 death sentences prosperity of the Spanish
were issued; among the Netherlands. This was
victims were two concilia- reflected in the dyna-
tory negotiators, the counts mism and swagger of
Hornes and Egmont, who the work of their court
were executed in Brussels’s Philip II (1527–98) in 1628, an painter Rubens, and his
Grand Place in 1568. oil on canvas by Rubens fellow artists in Antwerp.

Fernando Alvarez, Duke of Alba (1507–82)

1567 The Duke of Alba 1598 Isabella and Albert 1601–04 Archduke Albert
sets up the Council of are installed as rulers of lays siege to Oostende to
Troubles to eradicate the Netherlands and run a oust the geuzen
Protestantism and dissent strong anti-Protestant regime
1560 1580 1600
1577 Birth of 1610–11 Rubens, back
1568–1648 Peter Paul from Italy, launches his
The Eighty Rubens career in Antwerp with
Years’ War Raising of the Cross
Detail from Rubens’s for the cathedral
Raising of the Cross
 42 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

The armies of Louis XIV of France bombarding Brussels’s city centre in 1695

INVASION OF THE SUN KING More trouble lay ahead. Following his
The 17th century was a time of great marriage to Maria Theresa, daughter
religious and political stuggle for of Philip IV of Spain, Louis XIV of
Europe. The Thirty Years’ War divided France (the Sun King) felt he had a
the land along Catholic and Protestant claim over the Spanish Netherlands.
lines. In addition, Spain was engaged After Philip IV died in 1665, Louis
in the Revolt of the Netherlands. launched the War of Devolution (1667–
Under the Peace of Münster, which 68), winning Tournai, Kortrijk and
ended both these wars, Philip IV of Charleroi. He took Bouillon in 1678,
Spain finally recognized the inde- Luxembourg in 1684 and Namur in
pendence of the United Provinces. 1692; all were subsequently fortified
The Spanish Netherlands now by his ingenious military architect, the
consisted of a region more-or-less Marquis de Vauban. However, when
similar to modern Belgium and Namur was retaken in 1695, the piqued
Luxembourg. However, under this Sun King moved his army to Brussels.
treaty, the United Provinces gained On 13 August 1695, the French bom-
control of the mouth of the River barded Brussels from a hill outside
Scheldt, and Antwerp lost its access the city, destroying the Grand Place.
to the sea – a disaster for the city that
was not rectified until Napoleon over- AUSTRIAN SUCCESSION
turned the ruling 150 years later. Subsequent decades were further
dogged by war as Austria and
England sought to stave off French
ambitions. When Philip of Anjou,
grandson of Louis XIV, succeeded to
the Spanish throne in 1700, it looked
as if the combined threat of Spain
and France would overwhelm the rest
of Europe. Emperor Leopold I of
Austria, together with England and
many German states, declared war on
France. The resulting War of the
Spanish Succession raged across
Ratification of the Treaty of Münster, which ended Europe for 14 years. Campaigns led
the war between the United Provinces and Spain by the Duke of Marlborough scored

TIMELINE Louis XIV, the Sun King

1648 The Thirty Years’ War ends 1667 Louis XIV of

and the Peace of Münster France launches a
recognizes the independence war to claim the
of the United Provinces Spanish Nertherlands
1620 1640 1660 1680 1700
1660 Work begins 1695 French
1618 Beginning of on the Baroque bombardment of
the Thirty Years’ War abbey church of Brussels destroys
in western Europe Grimbergen the Grand Place
Altar at Grimbergen
abbey church
 THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 43

famous victories at Ramillies as the Place Royale and Parc

(north of Namur) and de Bruxelles were laid out
Oudenaarde, which in a fashionable Neo-
pushed France out of the Classical style, which
Spanish Netherlands. also spread to other
Under the 1713 Treaty cities. However, this
of Utrecht, it was prosperity did not filter
ceded to Austria. down to the masses.
Emperor Charles VI The people lived in
ruled Austria after crowded, unsanitary
Leopold, but failed to conditions and unem-
produce a male heir. ployment was rife.
His death resulted in During this time, lace
another eight years of became the industry of
war, the War of the the downtrodden.
Austrian Succession, to The Treaty of Utrecht that ended the The Austrian
resolve whether his War of the Spanish Succession Netherlands were
daughter Maria Theresa essentially conservative
should inherit the crown. The and Catholic. When Joseph II (r.1780–
Austrian Netherlands (as they now 90) succeeded Maria Theresa, he
were) were also drawn into the war. enforced a series of liberal reforms
F r e n c h t r o o p s t o o k To u r n a i , including freedom of religion.
Oudenaarde, Bruges, Dendermonde Monasteries closed, education was
and Ghent in 1745, and most of the secularized and administration was
country the following year. With the increasingly based in Vienna. These
Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen), measures stoked up deep resentment
the French withdrew from the south- in the citizens. In 1787, a conserva-
ern Netherlands, and Maria Theresa’s tive rebellion, led by the Brussels
rule was finally acknowledged. lawyer Henri van der Noot, escalated
into the Brabançon Revolt (1787–
BOOM AND REVOLT 90). The French
In 1744, Empress Maria Theresa Revolution of 1789
installed her sister Maria Anna of further inspired a
Habsburg and her husband Charles of mood of insurrection.
Lorraine as joint governors of the A battle at Turnhout
Austrian Netherlands. Maria Anna put the Austrians to
died in childbirth the same year, but flight, although the
Charles remained governor until his revolt was crushed by
death in 1780. His rule was a period Austrian troops dis-
of revival – under the influence of patched by Joseph’s
the Enlightenment, Charles’s court successor, Leopold II. Maria Theresa of
attracted intellectuals and artists, and This episode offered Austria (1717–80)
Brussels became the most glamorous a brief taste of inde-
city in Europe. Industry boomed with pendence, but Belgium had to endure
the construction of new roads and further decades of foreign interven-
waterways. Brussels was transformed tion before that could be achieved.

A silver thaler depicting Maria Theresa

1740–48 The succession of Maria Theresa to the 1782–4 Under
1713 The Treaty of throne causes the War of Austrian Succession Austrian reforms,
Utrecht marks the medieval walls
beginning of Austrian 1745 French troops led by Louis XV in Bruges are
rule in the Netherlands invade the Austrian Netherlands demolished
1720 1740 1760 1780
1719 François Anneessens, 1744 Charles of 1790 The Republic of
a guildmaster in Brussels, Lorraine takes up his United Belgium, formed
leads a revolt against post as Governor of the by the Barbançon
Austrian taxes in Brussels Austrian Netherlands Revolt, is crushed
and is beheaded by the Austrians
Charles of Lorraine
44 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

The Fight for Independence

Belgium was again occupied by foreign powers between
1794 and 1830 – first, by the French Republican Army
at war against Austria, then, after Napoleon’s defeat at
Waterloo in 1815, by the Dutch. French radical reforms
included the abolition of the guild system and fairer tax-
ation laws. Although French rule was unpopular, their
liberal ideas were to influence the Belgian drive for inde- King William I
pendence. In 1815, William I of Orange was appointed of Orange
King of the Netherlands (which included Belgium) by the William’s rule as King
Congress of Vienna. His autocratic style, together with a of the Netherlands after
series of anti-Catholic measures, bred discontent, espe- 1815 was unpopular.
cially in Brussels and among the French-
speaking Walloons in the south. The
south was also angered when William
refused to introduce tariffs to protect
their trade – it was the last straw. The
uprising of 1830 began in Brussels.

A Cultural Revolution in Brussels

The French drove forward a programme
of modernization in Brussels. The 16th-
century city walls were demolished and
replaced by tree-lined boulevards.

Liberals joined workers already protesting

in the square outside. All were prepared
to die for the cause.

The Battle of Waterloo

Napoleon’s attempt to reconquer Europe
ended at Waterloo on 18 June 1815. A Agricultural Workers
Prussian army came to Wellington’s aid, Harsh weather in the winter of 1829 caused
and by evening Napoleon faced his final hardship for both farmers and agricultural
defeat. This led to Dutch rule over Belgium. labourers, who also joined the protest.
 THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 45

Le Théâtre de
la Monnaie
On 25 August
1830, the patriotic
song, L’Amour
Sacré de la Patrie,
from French
composer Daniel
Auber’s opera La
The Revolution in Industry
Muette de Portici,
Taxes, unemployment and social divisions
goaded the audi-
under Dutch rule all contributed to the
ence into revolt.
mood of the rebellion that erupted in 1830.
BELGIAN REVOLUTION
The revolution of 1830 was ignited by a
radical opera at the Brussels opera house,
when the liberal audience rushed out into
the street to join a workers’ demonstration,
raising the Brabant flag. Gustave Wappers
(1803–74) brought the drama of Romanticism
to his depiction of the Belgian Revolution with
the painting, Day in September 1830. Troops
were sent by William I to quash the rebels,
but the Belgian soldiers deserted and the
Dutch were able to retake Brussels. Sporadic
fighting rumbled on until 1832. William
finally accepted the new borders in 1839.

asked for
The initial list of demands
administrative independence from the
Dutch and for freedom of the press.

Late September of 1830 saw

days of costly streetfighting in
Brussels, as the rebels defended King of Belgium, Léopold I
the city against Dutch troops. The crowning of German prince, Léopold
of Saxe-Coburg, in Brussels in 1831 finally
established Belgium’s independence.

TIMELINE
1799 Napoleon 1815 Battle of Waterloo: 1830 Rebellion
Bonaparte Napoleon is defeated begins at the
rules France by an army led by the Théâtre de la
Duke of Wellington Monnaie in
William I of Orange Brussels
1800 1810 1820 1830
1792 In the French 1815 Belgium, allied with 1831 State of Belgium
Revolutionary war against Holland under the United formed on 21 July; Treaty of
Austria, France invades Kingdom of the Netherlands, London grants independence
the Austrian Netherlands is ruled by William I of
Orange; Brussels becomes 1835 First continental railway
the second capital built from Brussels to Mechelen
46 INTRODUCING BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG

CONSOLIDATING THE NEW STATE the social deprivation that came with
In Belgium’s early days as an industrialization. Equally controversial
independent nation, Brussels was a was his acquisition of the Congo in
haven for free-thinkers such as the Africa and the abuses of colonial
libertarian poet Baudelaire, and a ref- power that were played out there.
uge for exiles such as Karl Marx and
Victor Hugo. In 1799, steam power THE GERMAN OCCUPATIONS
was brought to the textile industry at Like much of Europe, Belgium was
Verviers, in Eastern Wallonia, and enjoying a belle époque before the
Belgium began following in the tracks calamities of the 20th century began
of Britain. It was now industrializing to unfold. In the summer of 1914, it
fast. Continental Europe’s first railway was invaded by the German army.
line opened in 1835 between Brussels Although Belgium had been created
and Mechelen and by 1870, there as a neutral country, some of the
were four main railway stations in bloodiest battles of World War I were
Brussels that exported goods all over staged on its soil. The front line fol-
Europe. By this time, the focus of lowed a southward path through the
industrial development was Wallonia, marginally higher land around Ieper.
with its coal mines and iron industries. The opposing armies dug in and suf-
This reinforced the age-old supremacy fered years of brutal trench warfare in
of French-speaking Belgians. Dutch- a stalemate that cost nearly a million
speaking Flanders remained largely lives. Today, the peaceful agricultural
rural, impoverished and increasingly land on either side of the salient is
resentful of the imposition of French spattered with military cemeteries filled
by the ruling elite – French was the with the foreign soldiers who came
language of administration, educa- here to contest the Western Front.
tion, law and intellectual life. While the Belgian army, led by King
The long reign of Belgium’s second Albert I (r.1909–34), put up a spirited
monarch, Léopold II (r.1865–1909), resistance from their last stronghold in
spanned the rapid development of De Panne in the far northwest, most
Belgium. He was praised for his of the rest of the country remained
vision, but was also associated with under occupation – often brutal and
vindictive – until the
last day of the war,
11 November 1918.
The 1919 Treaty of
Versailles granted
Belgium control of
Eupen-Malmedy, the
German-speaking area
in the east.
In 1940, neutral
Belgium was invaded
again by the Germans
under Hitler. Many
Engraving of the interior of a 19th-century forge near Huy in eastern Belgium Belgians took part in

TIMELINE
1847 Opening of 1871 The River Senne 1898 The Flemish
continental Europe’s in Brussels is covered language is given 1914–18 World
first shopping mall, over, and new suburbs equal status to War I; Germany
the Galéries St-Hubert, are built to cope with French in law occupies Belgium
in Brussels the growing population
1840 1875 1910

1884 Léopold II 1893–5 Victor

is granted Horta builds the first 1939–44 World War II;
sovereignty over Art Nouveau house Germany again
the Congo in Brussels occupies Belgium
The Belgian Congo
 THE HISTORY OF BELGIUM 47

INTERNATIONAL STATUS
The latter half of the 20th century has
been marked by the ongoing lan-
guage debate between the Flemish
and the French-speaking Walloons.
Between 1970 and 1994, the constitu-
tion of Belgium was redrawn, creat-
ing a federal state with three separate
regions – the Flemish north, the
Walloon south and bilingual Brussels.
Like most of Europe, Belgium went
from economic boom in the 1960s to
recession and retrenchment in the
1970s and 80s, and renewed growth
in the 1990s. This latter period saw a
rapid rise in the prosperity of
Flanders, while Wallonia, the old
powerhouse of the heavy industries,
declined – a reversal of fortune that
has reinforced the language divide.
German troops raising the flag of the Third Reich at
Throughout these decades, Brussels’s
the Royal Castle at Laeken, near Brussels
stature at the heart of Europe was
a courageous resistance movement; consolidated. In 1958, the city became
the fate of many others was to be for- the headquarters for the European
cibly shipped to Germany as labour- Economic Community (EEC), later the
ers. The Nazis also exploited the European Union (EU). In 1967, NATO
disaffection of Flemish nationalists, also moved to Brussels. The capital
recruiting volunteers to serve their city’s international role has helped
army or operate the notorious con- ease tensions between Flanders and
centration camp at Breendonk, near Wallonia, but – as throughout most of
Antwerp. Belgium was liberated by its long history – the political future
the Allies in September 1944, but the of Belgium remains in the balance.
Germans mounted a last-ditch attempt
to break the advance by punching a
hole through the Ardennes of
Luxembourg and southern Belgium
in the Battle of the Bulge.
Belgium entered an uneasy peace.
King Léopold III (r.1934–51) was at
the focus of the contention – he had
surrendered in 1940 and was moved
to Germany until the end of the war.
Rumours, still disputed, that he had
collaborated with the Nazis led to his
abdication in 1951, in favour of Flags of the European Union states in front of
his son, Baudouin (r.1951–93). the EU headquarters in Brussels

1951 1962 The Belgian Congo 1989 2001 Crown Prince Philippe
Baudouin is granted independence Brussels is and Princess Mathilde have a
succeeds officially a daughter and heir, Elisabeth
Léopold III 1967 Brussels is the new bilingual city
NATO headquarters 2002 The euro becomes legal tender

1945 1980 2015

1958 Formation of the EEC, 1993 King Baudouin
with Belgium as a founder dies; Albert II succeeds Flag of the
member; Exposition European Union
Universelle et Internationale
in Brussels, with the Atomium Baudouin
as the star attraction
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
 »Tämä hautuumaa onkin maailman huonoimmin hoidettuja, mikäli
minä niitä tunnen. Mutta eipä sitä tarvitse ihmetelläkään. Tehän
tiedätte, ettei tänne juuri haudata muita kuin Grève-torilla
teloitettuja eikä niiden kurjien takia viitsitä nähdä paljo vaivaa.
Mutta, rakas herra de Beausire, meillä on täällä sentään yksi ja
toinen kuuluisuus. Jos olisi päiväsaika, näyttäisin teille paikan, mihin
on kuopattu Bouteville de Montmorency, joka mestattiin
kaksintaistelun takia, ritari de Rohan, joka mestattiin hallitusta
vastaan suunnittelemiensa vehkeilyjen johdosta, kreivi de Horn, joka
teilattiin juutalaisen murhasta, Damiens, joka paloiteltiin
senjohdosta, että hän oli yrittänyt surmata Ludvig viidennentoista. Ja
monia muita. Ette siis saa halveksia Saint-Jeanin hautuumaata, herra
de Beausire, se on huonosti hoidettu mutta hyvin kansoitettu.»

Beausire seurasi Cagliostroa astuen tarkalleen hänen jälkiinsä

kuten takarivin sotamies, joka on tottunut kulkemaan ruotutoverinsa
jälkiä.

»Ah!» sanoi Cagliostro ja pysähtyi äkisti, niin että Beausire, joka ei

ollut osannut odottaa näin äkillistä pysähdystä, pukkasi mahallaan
kreivin selkää. »Tässä on ihan veres hauta, ammattiveljenne Fleur-
d'Epinen leposija. Hän oli leipuri Françoisin murhaajia ja hänet
hirtettiin kahdeksan päivää sitten Châteletin tuomiolla. Sen pitäisi
olla teille mielenkiintoinen tuttavuus, herra de Beausire, hän oli,
kuten tekin, entinen kersantti, valekersantti ja oikealta ammatiltaan
värvääjä.»

Beausiren hampaat sananmukaisesti kalisivat. Hänestä tuntui, että

pensaat, joiden keskitse hän kulki, olivat maasta kurkottavia
käsivarsia, jotka tarrautuivat hänen jalkoihinsa ja tekivät hänelle
tiettäväksi, että kohtalo oli tänne merkinnyt paikan, missä hänkin
saisi nukkua ikuista untaan.

»No, nyt olemmekin perillä», sanoi Cagliostro pysähtyessään

rauniokasan eteen.

Hän istuutui irtonaiselle kivelle ja kehoitti Beausirea istuutumaan

toiselle, joka näytti asetetun niin lähelle edellistä, ettei Cinnan
tarvitsisi siirtää tuoliaan Augustuksen tuolin viereen.

Jo oli aikakin, sillä entisen kersantin jalat olivat jo niin

hervottomat, että hän pikemminkin lyykähti kuin istuutui kivelle.

»No, nyt voimme mielemme mukaan haastella, rakas herra de

Beausire», aloitti Cagliostro. »Antakaa kuulua, mitä tänä iltana
tapahtui Royale-aukion holvikaarten alla. Neuvottelu lienee ollut
mielenkiintoinen?»

»Herra kreivi», vastasi Beausire, »minun täytyy totisesti

tunnustaa, että pääni on tällä haavaa hieman pyörällä, ja minä
luulen, että teidän on parasta kysellä mitä haluatte tietää».

»Olkoon menneeksi», sanoi Cagliostro. »Olen hyvä isäntä ja

kunhan vain saan tietää mitä haluan, on tapa, kuinka sen saan,
samantekevä. Montako teitä oli Royale-aukion holvikaarten alla?»

»Kuusi, minä mukana.»

»Kuusi, te mukana, rakas herra de Beausire! Katsokaamme ovatko

ne henkilöitä, joiksi heitä luulen. Ensiksi te, se on epäämätöntä.»

Beausire huoahti melkein kuin toivoen, että sellainen epäilys olisi

mahdollinen.
 »Osoitatte minulle suurta kunniaa aloittamalla minusta, vaikka
siellä oli paljoa korkeampiakin henkilöitä.»

»Hyvä ystävä, minä noudatan evankeliumin ohjeita. Eikö

raamatussa sanota: 'Ensimmäiset tulevat viimeisiksi'? Jos
ensimmäisten sija on viimeisenä, ovat viimeiset tietenkin
ensimmäisellä sijalla. Minä noudatan siis, kuten jo sanoin,
evankeliumin järjestystä. Kohtauspaikalla olitte ensinnäkin te, eikö
niin?»

»Olin.»

»Lisäksi ystävänne Tourcaty, eikö totta? Entinen alokasupseeri,

joka on saanut tehtäväkseen värvätä kokoon Brabantin legionan?»

»Siellä oli Tourcaty.»

»Sitten muuan kelpo kuninkaanpuoluelainen, nimeltään Marquié,

entinen
Ranskan kaartin kersantti, nykyisin keskuskomppanian luutnantti?»

»Niin, herra kreivi, Marquié oli siellä.»

»Edelleen markiisi de Favras?»

»Vallan oikein.»

»Ja naamioitu mies?»

»Hänkin.»'

»Voitteko kertoa minulle jotakin siitä naamioidusta miehestä?»

 Beausire silmäili Cagliostroa niin kiinteästi, että hänen silmänsä
näyttivät loistavan pimeässä.

»Mutta eikö hän ole…?»

Hän vaikeni kuin peläten nimen lausumisen olevan

pyhyydenloukkausta.

»Ole kuka?» kysyi Cagliostro.

»Eikö hän ole…?»

»No, mitä nyt? Luulenpa, että kielenne on siteessä, rakas herra de

Beausire. Varokaa! Kielen siteet muuttuvat toisinaan kaulan nuoraksi,
jossa on juoksusilmukka, ja ne ovat aika vaarallisia.»

»Mutta», jatkoi Beausire, joka huomasi, ettei voinut selviytyä

verukkeilla, »eikö hän ole Monsieur?»

»Monsieur kuka?» tiukkasi Cagliostro.

»Monsieur… Monsieur, kuninkaan veli.»

»Oh, parahin herra de Beausire! On ymmärrettävää, että markiisi

de Favras, jolle on tärkeää uskotella, että tässä jutussa on mukana
täysiverinen prinssi, väittää naamioitua miestä Monsieuriksi. Ken ei
osaa valehdella, ei taida myöskään vehkeillä. Mutta ei ole paikallaan,
että te ja ystävänne Tourcaty, vanhat värvääjät, jotka olette
tottuneet ensi silmäykseltä arvioimaan lähimmäisenne pituuden
jaloittain, tuumittain ja linjoittain, antaisitte vetää itseänne nenästä
tuolla tavalla.»

»Se on kyllä totta», myönsi Beausire.

 »Monsieur on viisi jalkaa, kolme tuumaa ja seitsemän linjaa
pitkä», jatkoi Cagliostro, »ja naamioitu mies viisi jalkaa kuusi
tuumaa».

»Saman huomion olen minäkin tehnyt», sanoi Beausire. »Mutta

ellei hän ole Monsieur, kuka siis?»

»Lempo soikoon! Olisin sekä onnellinen että ylpeä, rakas herra de

Beausire, jos voisin valaista teille sen seikan, sillä minä luulin saavani
teiltä juuri ne tiedot».

»Herra kreivi», sanoi entinen aliupseeri, joka oli vähitellen toipunut

ennalleen, »te siis tiedätte, kuka se naamioitu mies on?»

»Tiedän hitossa!»

»Olisiko julkeata kysyä teiltä…»

»Hänen nimeäänkö?»

Beausire nyökäytti päätänsä.

»Nimen mainitseminen on aina arkaluontoinen asia, herra de

Beausire; senvuoksi näkisin mieluummin, että arvaisitte sen.»

»Arvaisin…! Kaksi viikkoa olen yrittänyt arvailla.»

»Niin, kukaan ei ole auttanut teitä.»

»Auttakaa te, herra kreivi.»

»Muuta en pyydäkään. Tunnetteko Oidipoksen tarinan?»

 »Huononpuoleisesti, herra kreivi. Näin sen kerran esitettävän
Comédie-Françaisessa, mutta neljännen näytöksen aikana satuin
onnettomuudekseni nukkumaan.»

»Hitto! Toivon teille vastedeskin samanlaisia onnettomuuksia, hyvä

herra.»

»Mutta, kuten huomaatte, on se koitunut vahingokseni.»

»No niin. Muutamin sanoin selitän teille, mitä Oidipos oli miehiään.
Olen tuntenut hänet lapsuudessaan Polybioksen hovissa ja vanhalla
iällään Admetoksen hovissa. Voitte siis uskoa minun kertomaani
paremmin kuin mitä hänestä ovat kirjoittaneet Aiskhylos, Sophokles,
Seneca, Corneille, Voltaire tai herra Ducis, jotka ovat ehkä kuulleet
hänestä puhuttavan, mutta eivät ole häntä tunteneet
henkilökohtaisesti.»

Beausire teki eleen kuin aikoisi vaatia Cagliostroa selittämään

omituista väitettään, että oli tuntenut miehen, joka oli maannut
haudassa ainakin kolmetuhattakuusisataa vuotta, mutta hän arveli,
ettei mokoman pikkuseikan vuoksi kannattanut keskeyttää
kerrontaa. Hän vaimensi eleensä ja vaihtoi sen päännyökkäykseksi,
joka oli sanovinaan: — Jatkakaa, minä kuuntelen.

»Olen siis tuntenut Oidipoksen. Oli ennustettu, että hänestä tulisi

isänsä murhaaja ja äitinsä aviopuoliso. Koska hän luuli Polybiosta
isäkseen, lähti hän salaa tämän luota ja yritti mennä Phokiiseen.
Lähtöhetkellä minä neuvoni häntä karttamaan Dauliista Delphoihin
vievää valtatietä ja kulkemaan vuoripolkua, jonka minä tunsin. Mutta
hän oli itsepäinen, ja koska en voinut sanoa hänelle, miksi näin
neuvoin, olivat kaikki kehoitukseni, joilla yritin saada hänet
valitsemaan toisen tien, turhia. Tämä itsepäisyys johti tulokseen,
jonka jo ennakolta tiesin. Delphoin- ja Theeban-tien
yhtymäkohdassa hän tapasi erään miehen viiden orjan seurassa.
Mies istui vaunuissa, jotka täyttivät koko tienleveyden. Kaikki olisi
sujunut hyvin, jos mies olisi suostunut väistymään hieman
vasempaan ja Oidipos saman verran oikeaan, mutta molemmat
tahtoivat ajaa keskellä tietä. Mies oli kiivasluontoinen, Oidipos
kärsimätön. Ne viisi orjaa heittäytyivät kukin vuoron jälkeen
isäntäänsä puolustamaan ja kaikki kaatuivat toinen toisensa perään.
Lopulta heidän isäntänsäkin kaatui. Oidipos astui siis kuuden ruumiin
yli ja näiden kuuden ruumiin joukossa oli myöskin hänen isänsä.»

»Sepä perhanaa!» sutkautti Beausire.

»Sitten hän jatkoi matkaansa Theebaan. Tien varrella kohosi

Phykion-vuori ja erään polun vierellä, joka oli paljoa kapeampi sitä
tietä, jolla Oidipos surmasi isänsä, oli erään merkillisen otuksen
luola. Tällä eläimellä oli kotkan siivet, naisen pää ja rinnat, leijonan
ruumis ja kynnet.»

»Oho», keskeytti Beausire, »luuletteko, herra kreivi, että sellaisia

kummituksia on olemassa?»

»Jätän siihen kysymykseen vastaamatta, rakas herra de

Beausire», sanoi Cagliostro vakavasti, »varsinkin kun sfinksi oli
kuollut käydessäni Theebaan samaa tietä tuhatta vuotta
myöhemmin, Epaminondaan aikana. Kuinka tahansa, Oidipoksen
aikana se eli vielä. Eräitä sen oikkuja oli asettua keskelle tietä,
esittää ohipyrkijöille arvoitus ja hotaista suuhunsa ne, jotka eivät
keksineet arvoituksen ratkaisua. Kun tätä menoa oli jatkunut yli
kolme vuosisataa, oli ohipyrkivien lukumäärä vähenemistään
vähentynyt ja sfinksin hampaat tulleet hyvin pitkiksi. Huomattuaan
Oidipoksen se meni keskelle tietä ja kohotti käpälänsä ilmaisten
siten, että nuoren miehen oli pysähdyttävä. 'Matkamies', sanoi se,
'olen sfinksi'. — 'Entä sitten?' kysyi Oidipos. — 'Näetkös, kaitselmus
on lähettänyt minut maan päälle esittämään kuolevaisille arvoituksia.
Elleivät he arvaa oikein, ovat he minun; jos he arvaavat oikein, olen
minä kuoleman oma ja minun täytyy syöksyä tuohon rotkoon, minne
olen tähän hetkeen saakka viskannut kaikkien niiden luut, jotka ovat
tätä tietä kulkeneet.' Oidipos loi silmäyksen rotkon pohjaan ja
huomasi sen olevan valkoisenaan ihmisenluita. — 'Hyvä on', virkkoi
nuorukainen, 'mikä on se arvoitus?' — 'Arvoitus on seuraava', sanoi
lintu-leijona: 'Mikä eläin käy aamuisin neljällä, puolipäivän aikaan
kahdella ja iltaisin kolmella jalalla?' — Oidipos tuumi hetken aikaa ja
vastasi sitten hymyillen, mikä teki sfinksin hyvin levottomaksi: 'Entä
jos arvaan oikein, — syöksytkö vapaaehtoisesti rotkoon?' —
'Sellainen on laki', sanoi sfinksi.

— 'Hyvä, se eläin on ihminen.'»

»Mitä, ihminenkö?» keskeytti Beausire innostuneena

kertomukseen kuin se olisi kosketellut hänen aikaisiaan asioita.

»Niin, ihminen, joka lapsena, siis elämänsä aamuna, ryömii

nelinkontin, joka täysikasvuisena, siis elämänsä keskipäivällä kulkee
kahdella jalalla ja vanhuksena, siis elämänsä ehtoopuolella kävelee
sauvan turvin.»

»Ah», huudahti Beausire, »se on totinen totuus!… Sfinksi tuli

puijatuksi!»

»Vallan niin, rakas herra de Beausire, niin perinpohjin puijatuksi,

että se syöksyi pää edellä rotkoon huomaamatta edes turvautua
siipiinsä, mikä teidän mielestänne oli epäilemättä perin järjetöntä, ja
murskasi kallonsa kallioon. Oidipos jatkoi matkaansa, saapui
Theebaan, näki Jokasten jääneen leskeksi, nai hänet ja toteutti siten
oraakkelin ennustuksen, joka oli sanonut, että hän surmaisi isänsä ja
naisi äitinsä.»

»Mutta, herra kreivi, mitä yhteyttä on Oidipoksen tarinalla

naamioidun miehen juttuun?»

»Oh, paljonkin! Odottakaahan. Ensiksi te halusitte saada selville

hänen nimensä?»

»Niin.»

»Ja minä sanoin, että esittäisin teille erään arvoituksen. Minä olen
tosin armeliaampi kuin sfinksi enkä hotaise teitä suuhuni, vaikkette
pystyisikään arvoitusta ratkaisemaan. Huomio, minä kohotan
käpäläni: Kuka on se hovin ylimys, joka on isänsä tyttärenpoika,
äitinsä veli ja sisariensa eno?»

»Siunaa ja varjele!» huudahti Beausire ja vaipui yhtä syviin

mietteihin kuin aikanaan Oidipos.

»Kas niin, tuumikaa, etsikää, hyvä herra», sanoi Cagliostro.

»Auttakaa minua hieman, herra kreivi.»

»Mielelläni. Kysyin teiltä äsken, tunnetteko Oidipoksen tarinan.»

»Niin, te soitte minulle sen kunnian.»

»Nyt siirrymme pakana-ajan historiasta raamatunhistoriaan.

Tunnetteko kertomuksen Lotista?»

»Ja hänen tyttäristään?»

 »Juuri niin.»

»Toki minä sen tunnen! Mutta malttakaas… Ah, nyt muistan, mitä
on kerrottu iäkkäästä Ludvig viidennestätoista ja hänen tyttärestään,
madame Adelaidesta…!»

»Nyt olette oikealla tolalla, herraseni.»

»Naamioitu mies olisi siis…?»

»Viisi jalkaa kuusi tuumaa.»

»Kreivi Louis…»

»Entä muuta?»

»Kreivi Louis de…»

»Vaiti!»

»Mutta tehän sanoitte, ettei täällä ole muita kuin vainajia.»

»Vallan oikein, mutta heidän haudallaan rehoittaa ruoho, ja se
kasvaakin täällä paremmin kuin muualla. Jos tämä ruoho, kuten
Midaan kaislat… tunnetteko Midas-kuninkaan tarinan?

»En, herra kreivi.»

»Kerron sen teille toiste. Palatkaamme omaan juttuumme.»

Ja hän kysyi nyt jälleen vakavana:

»Te siis sanoitte?»

»Anteeksi, mutta minä luulin, että teidän piti kysellä.»

 »Olette oikeassa.»

Ja Cagliostron miettiessä kysymystään hoki Beausire puoliääneen:

»Totisesti, niin se on! Isänsä tyttärenpoika, äitinsä veli, sisariensa

eno… kreivi Louis de Nar…»

»Hiljaa!» varoitti Cagliostro.

Beausire keskeytti yksinpuhelunsa ja kuunteli tarkkaavasti.

»Nyt kun olemme selvillä sekä naamioiduista että

naamioimattomista vehkeilijöistä, siirtykäämme salahankkeen
tarkoitusta penkomaan.»

Beausire nyökäytti päätänsä merkiksi, että hän oli valmis

vastaamaan.

»Salajuonen tarkoituksena on ryöstää kuningas, eikö totta?» »Se

on todella salajuonen tarkoitus.»

»Ja viedä hänet Péronneen?»

» Péronneen.»

»Entä keinot?»

»Rahallisetko?»

»Niin, rahalliset ensin.»

»Tiedossa on kaksi miljoonaa.»

 »Jotka lainataan eräältä genovalaiselta pankkiirilta. Tunnen
miehen.
Onko muita?»

»En tiedä.»

»Siinä siis ollaan rahan puolesta kunnossa. Mutta ei pelkällä

rahalla pitkälle päästä. Tarvitaan väkeäkin.»

»Herra de Lafayette on antanut käskyn värvätä kokoon legionan,

jonka on määrä mennä auttamaan Brabantia, kun se nousee
kapinaan keisarikuntaa vastaan.»

— Oh, sitä kunnon Lafayettea! — mutisi Cagliostro. — Tunnen

hänet hyvin tuosta teosta!

Ääneen hän virkkoi:

»Legiona on siis tiedossa, mutta yksi legiona ei riitä toteuttamaan

sellaista suunnitelmaa. Kokonainen armeija siihen tarvitaan.»

»Armeijakin on tiedossa.»

»Ah, antakaa kuulua!»

»Tuhatkaksisataa ratsumiestä kokoontuu Versaillesiin. Ne lähtevät

määrättynä päivänä liikkeelle kello yksitoista illalla. Kello kaksi
aamulla ne saapuvat Pariisiin kolmena joukkona.»

»Edelleen!»

»Ensimmäinen joukko-osasto tulee Chaillotin portista, toinen

Roulen tulliportista ja kolmas Grenellen tulliportista. Grenellen kautta
marssiva osasto surmaa kenraali Lafayetten, Chaillotin kautta
marssiva herra Neckern ja Roulen tulliportista saapuva ottaa päiviltä
herra Baillyn.»

»Edelleen!» toisti Cagliostro.

»Senjälkeen naulataan umpeen tykit, kokoonnutaan Champ

Élyséesille ja marssitaan Tuileries-palatsiin, joka jo silloin on
hallussamme.»

»Kuinka, hallussanne? Entä kansalliskaarti?»

»Palatsin valtaaminen on Brabantin legionan huolena.

Palkkajoukko-osaston, neljänsadan sveitsiläisen ja kolmensadan
maalta tulleen salaliittolaisen kanssa se valtaa palatsissa olevien
uskottujen miesten avulla sekä uiko- että sisäportit. Mennään
kuninkaan huoneeseen ja huudetaan: ’Sire, Saint-Antoinen
esikaupunki on täydessä kapinassa… vaunut odottavat ulkona… nyt
on paettava!' Jos kuningas suostuu lähtemään, sujuu asia ilman
muuta; ellei hän suostu, hänet viedään väkivalloin ja kuljetetaan
Saint-Denisiin.»

»Edelleen!»

»Saint-Denisissä on koolla kaksikymmentätuhatta miestä

jalkaväkeä. Niihin liittyvät äsken mainitut tuhatkaksisataa
ratsumiestä, Brabantin legiona, neljäsataa sveitsiläistä sekä
kymmenen-, kaksikymmentä-, kolmekymmentätuhatta matkan
varrella värvättyä kuninkaanpuoluelaista, ja koko tämä yhtynyt
joukko marssii Péronneen.»

»Yhä parempaa ja parempaa! Entä mitä Péronnessa tapahtuu,

rakas herra de Beausire?»
 »Péronnessa on kaksikymmentätuhatta miestä, jotka samaan
aikaan saapuvat kaupunkiin Meri-Flandriasta, Picardiesta, Artoisista,
Champagnesta, Bourgognesta, Lotringista, Elsassista ja Cambrain
seuduilta. Luvassa on lisäksi kaksikymmentätuhatta sveitsiläistä,
kaksitoistatuhatta saksalaista ja kaksitoistatuhatta sardinialaista. Kun
nämä joukot ovat liittyneet kuninkaan aikaisempaan saattueeseen,
on koolla sadanviidenkymmenentuhannen miehen armeija.»

»Kaunis lukumäärä!» sanoi Cagliostro.

»Tämä armeija marssii sitten Pariisia kohden. Seine-joki suljetaan

kahdesta paikasta ja siten estetään elintarpeitten vienti kaupunkiin.
Nälkiintynyt Pariisi antautuu, kansalliskokous hajoitetaan ja
kuningas, todellinen kuningas korotetaan jälleen isiensä
valtaistuimelle.»

»Aamen!» sanoi Cagliostro.

Ja noustuaan seisaalleen hän jatkoi:

»Rakas herra de Beausire, te osaatte kertoa tavattoman

miellyttävästi, mutta laitanne on kuten suurimpienkin puhujien, kun
olette kaikki sanonut, ei teillä ole enää mitään kerrottavaa — ja
olettehan nyt sanonut kaikki, vai kuinka?»

»Kyllä, herra kreivi, tällä erää.»

»Hyvää yötä sitten, rakas herra de Beausire. Kun jälleen tarvitsette

kymmenen louisdoria, yhäti lahjana, tulkaa hakemaan minua
Bellevuesta.»

»Bellevuesta ja kysynkö herra kreivi de Cagliostroa?»

 »Kreivi de Cagliostroa? Älkää, sillä kukaan ei siellä tietäisi ketä
tarkoitatte. Kysykää parooni Zannonea.»

»Parooni Zannonea!» huudahti Beausire. »Mutta hänhän on juuri

se genovalainen pankkiiri, joka on luvannut lainata Monsieurille kaksi
miljoonaa.»

»Se on mahdollista», myönsi Cagliostro.

»Kuinka, mahdollista?»

»Niin, minulla on niin monta asiaa hoidettavana, että yksi

sekaantuu toiseen. Senvuoksi en heti muistanut tätä juttua, mutta
tosiaankin nyt luulen muistavani sen.»

Beausire silmäili lopen kummissaan tueta miestä, joka noin vain

voi unohtaa parin miljoonan liikehomman, ja hän alkoi uskoa, että jo
pelkän rahakysymyksen kannaltakin olisi edullisempi palvella
lainanantajaa kuin lainanottajaa.

Mutta koska tämä kummastelu ei sentään saanut Beausirea

unohtamaan, millä paikalla hän oli, lähti hänkin liikkeelle heti kun
Cagliostro astui ensimmäiset askelensa hautuumaan porttia kohden
ja jäljitteli niin tarkkaan hänen liikkeitään, että kun näki heidän
astelevan melkein toisissaan kiinni, olisi pitänyt heitä kahtena
itsetoimivana koneena, jonka sama jousi oli pannut vireeseen.

Mutta kun hautuumaan portti oli sulkeutunut heidän takanaan,

erkanivat nämä koneet melko etäälle toisistaan.

»No», kysyi Cagliostro, »minne päin te lähdette, hyvä herra de

Beausire?»
 »Entä te itse?»

»Palais-Royaliin päin.»

»Minä menen Bastiljin taholle, Herra-kreivi.»————————-

Kumpikin lähti nyt omalle suunnalleen; Beausire kumarsi syvään

kreiville, Cagliostro nyökäytti kevyesti päätänsä. Molemmat katosivat
melkein heti yön pimeään, Cagliostro Temple-kadulle ja Beausire
Verrerie-kadulle.
VI

Gamain näyttää, että hän todella on mestarin mestari, kaikkien

mestari

Kuten lukija muistanee, oli kuningas kenraali Lafayetten ja kreivi

Louis de Bouillén kuullen lausunut toivomuksen, että saisi kutsua
luokseen entisen oppimestarinsa Gamainin auttamaan häntä
tärkeässä lukkotyössä. Hän oli lisännyt — ja meidän mielestämme on
paikallaan mainita sekin pikkuseikka tässä — ettei olisi pois tieltä,
vaikka joku kätevä oppipoikakin tulisi täydentämään tätä seppien
kolminaisuutta. Tämä kolmiluku, jota jumalatkin suosivat, oli
miellyttänyt Lafayetteakin ja hän oli senvuoksi antanut määräyksen,
että mestari Gamain ja hänen oppipoikansa oli päästettävä
esteettömästi kuninkaan luokse ja opastettava työpajaan heti kun he
ilmoittautuisivat.

Meidän ei siis tarvitse kummastella, että nähdessämme muutamia

päiviä mainitun keskustelun jälkeen mestari Gamainin joka ei
suinkaan ole lukijoillemme outo henkilö, sillä olemme esitelleet hänet
lokakuun 6 päivän aamulla tyhjentämässä erään tuntemattoman
asesepän kanssa pullollista burgundia Sèvres-sillan kapakassa —
meidän ei siis tarvitse ihmetellä, sanomme sen toistamiseen,
nähdessämme muutamia päiviä mainitun keskustelun jälkeen
mestari Gamainin ja hänen oppipoikansa molemmat työasuun
puettuina — ilmestyvän Tuileries-palatsin portin eteen. Heidät
päästettiin ilman muuta sisälle ja he nousivat isoja portaita myöten
kuninkaan kerrokseen, nousivat edelleen kierreportaat ja päästyään
työpajan oven eteen mainitsivat kamaripalvelijalle nimensä ja
ammattiarvonsa.

Nimet olivat Nicolas-Claude Gamain ja Louis Lecomte.

Ammattiarvot olivat: edellisen, lukkomestari, jälkimäisen,

oppipoika.

Vaikkei tässä esittelyssä ollut hitusenkaan vertaa ylhäistä leimaa,

riensi Ludvig XVI nuo nimet ja ammattiarvot kuultuaan ovelle
sanomaan:

»Käykää sisään!»

»Tullaan, tullaan», ehätti Gamain vastaamaan tutunomaisesti,

mikä ei ilmaissut yksinomaan toverinsuhdetta, vaan lisäksi mestarin
oikeuden.

Oppipoika ei liene ollut yhtä tottunut seurustelemaan

kuninkaallisten kanssa tai luonto oli kenties istuttanut häneen
voimakkaamman taipumuksen kunnioittaa kruunupäitä,
minkälaisessa asussa ne esiintyivätkin ja minkälaisessa asussa hän
itse sattuikin esiintymään: kuinka tahansa, oppipoika ei vastannut
mitään kuninkaan kehoitukseen, vaan jäi soveliaan välimatkan
päähän mestari Gamainista takki käsivarrella ja hattu kourassa
seisomaan lähelle ovea, jonka kamaripalvelija sulki heidän jälkeensä.
 Hänen oli sitäpaitsi ehkä parempi tältä paikalta kuin Gamainin
viereltä huomata Ludvig XVI:n väsyneihin silmiin ilmestynyt
ilonvälähdys ja helpompi vastata siihen päätä nyökäyttämällä.

»Sinäkö siellä, kunnon Gamain!» sanoi Ludvig XVI. »Olen iloinen

nähdessäni sinut taas. En tosiaankaan uskonut enää hyvään
tahtoosi. Luulin jo sinun unohtaneen minut vallan!»

»Ja senkö vuoksi olette ottanut oppipojan?» uteli Gamain. »Olette

tehnyt järkevästi, se oli teidän oikeutenne, koska kerran minä en
ollut saapuvilla. Mutta ikävä kyllä», lisäsi hän pahankurisesti,
»oppipoika ei ole mestari, häh?»

Oppipoika teki merkin kuninkaalle.

»Mikäs siinä auttoi, Gamain-parka?» sanoi Ludvig XVI. »Minulle

kerrottiin varmana asiana, ettet halunnut nähdä minua enää läheltä
etkä kaukaa. Sanottiin sinun pelkäävän maineesi jotenkuten
pilaantuvan…»

»Sire, Versaillesissa tekin totisesti olisitte saanut sen käsityksen,

ettei ole hyvä kuulua teidän ystäväpiiriinne, ja minä olen nähnyt ihan
vierelläni itsensä herra Leonardin — Sèvres-sillan kapakkapahaisessa
— kähertävän kaksi kaartilaisenpäätä, jotka irvistelivät pahasti siitä,
että olivat tulleet tavatuiksi teidän eteishuoneessanne juuri silloin
kun kelpo pariisilaisystävänne tulivat teitä tervehtimään.»

Kuninkaan otsa synkistyi ja oppipoika painoi päänsä alas.

»Mutta», jatkoi Gamain, »nyt kuuluvat asiat olevan parempaan

päin senjälkeen kuin muutitte Pariisiin. Nykyisin te voitte tiemmä
tehdä pariisilaisille mitä haluatte. Eikä se ole kummakaan, sillä
pariisilaisenne ovat aika hölmöjä ja kuningatar niin hemaiseva kun
hän on sillä tuulella.»

Ludvig XVI ei vastannut, mutta lievä puna kihosi hänen poskilleen.

Nuori oppipoika puolestaan näytti kärsivän tavattomasti mestari

Gamainin tutunomaisesta puhetavasta.

Kuivattuaan hänkin hiestyneen otsansa nenäliinalla, joka

lukkosepän oppipojan nenäliinaksi oli vallan liian hieno, hän astui
lähemmäs kuningasta ja sanoi:

»Sire, teidän majesteettinne sallinee minun kertoa teille, kuinka

mestari Gamainilla nyt on kunnia olla teidän majesteettinne edessä
ja kuinka minäkin olen teidän luonanne?»

»Kertokaa, rakas Louis», vastasi kuningas.

»Siinä sitä ollaan, 'rakas Louis', sanotaan heti», mutisi lukkoseppä.

» Rakas Louis… pariviikkoisen tuttavuuden jälkeen, tavallisesta
työmiehestä, oppipojasta!… Mikä minä siis olen, minä, joka olen
tuntenut teidät viisikolmatta vuotta? Minä, joka olen pannut viilan
käteenne? Minä, joka olen mestari. Mutta kyllä sen kelpaa, jolla on
sulava kieli ja valkoiset kädet!»

»Minä sanon sinua 'kelpo Gamainiksi'. Tätä nuorukaista nimitän

rakkaaksi Louisiksi', en senvuoksi, että hän puhuu kauniimmin kuin
sinä, en senvuoksi, että hän pesee kätensä useammin kuin sinä ehkä
sen teet — sinähän tiedät, etten paljoakaan välitä sellaisista
pikkuseikoista — vaan siksi, että hän on kyennyt tuomaan sinut
tänne, sinut, ystäväni, kun minulle jo sanottiin, ettet halunnut enää
tulla luokseni!»
 »Oh, minä kyllä olisin halunnut tulla, sillä kaikista vioistanne
huolimatta pidän teistä lopultakin aika paljon, mutta minun vaimoni,
rouva Gamain, hoki minulle yhtenään: 'Sinulla on huonoja
tuttavuuksia, Gamain, liian ylhäisiä tuttavuuksia. Näinä aikoina ei ole
terveellistä seurustella aatelisten kanssa. Meillä on hieman
omaisuutta, suojelkaamme sitä; meillä on lapsia, kasvattakaamme
niitä. Ja jos kruununprinssikin vuorostaan haluaa oppia lukkosepän
ammatin, hakekoon hän opin muilta kuin sinulta; Ranskasta ei puutu
lukkoseppiä'.»

Ludvig XVI loi silmäyksen oppipoikaan, huoahti puolittain

leikkisästi, puolittain alakuloisesti ja sanoi:

»Niin, epäilemättä Ranskassa kyllä riittää lukkoseppiä, muttei

sinunlaisiasi lukkoseppiä.»

»Samaa minä sanoin mestarille, sire, käydessäni hänen puheillaan

teidän lähettämänänne», puuttui puheeseen oppipoika. »Minä sanoin
hänelle: 'Kuulkaas nyt, mestari, kuningas valmistelee paraikaa
muuatta salalukkoa, hän tarvitsi oppipoikaa, hän oli kuullut
puhuttavan minusta ja hän otti minut palvelukseensa. Se oli minulle
suuri kunnia… hyvä… Mutta se työ oli tavallista hienompaa työtä.
Kaikki sujui hyvin niin kauan kuin oli kysymys vain lukonkopasta, -
laatasta ja -nastoista, sillä jokainen tietää, että kolme
pääskynpyrstön muotoista, reunoiltaan taivutettua nastaa riittää
kiinnittämään lukonkopan tukevasti lukonlaattaan, mutta kun
käsiteltäväksi tuli itse lukonkieli, joutui tekijä ymmälle…»

»Sen kyllä uskon», huomautti Gamain, »lukonkieli on koko lukon

sielu».
 »Ja koko lukkosepänammatin mestarinäyte, jos se on hyvin
tehty», lisäsi oppipoika. »Mutta lukonkieliä on monenlaisia. On
tavallinen 'nukkuva' kieli, laskukieli, työntökieli. No niin,
olettakaamme nyt, että meillä on putkiavain, jonka lehti on
lovellinen, yksi tavallinen pykälä ja yksi keihäskantainen pykälä
sisäpuolella, kaksi pyörää, toisessa sisäänpäin sirpinmuotoinen,
toisessa ulospäin keihäskantainen koro, minkälainen kieli sopii
sellaiseen avaimeen? Sitä kysymystä me jäimme pohtimaan…»

»Siihen kysymykseen ei osaakaan kuka tahansa vastata», sanoi

Gamain.

»Vallan niin… Sitä varten tulinkin teidän luoksenne, mestari

Gamain. Joka kerta kun kuningas johtui pulaan, sanoi hän
huokaisten: 'Ah, olisipa Gamain nyt täällä!' Silloin minä sanoin
kuninkaalle: 'No niin, sire, kutsuttakaa tänne kuulu Gamaininne ja
katsokaamme, mihin hän pystyy.' Mutta kuningas vastasi: 'Se on
turhaa, Louis-parka. Gamain on unohtanut minut.' Unohtanut teidän
majesteettinne! Mies, joka on työskennellyt teidän kanssanne!
Mahdotonta! Minä sanoin kuninkaalle: 'Lähden hakemaan tänne sen
mestarin mestarin, kaikkien mestarin.' Kuningas vastasi: 'Lähde vain,
mutta et saa häntä mukaasi.' Minä vakuutin: 'Minä tuon hänet
mukanani.' Ja minä lähdin. Ah, sire, en tiennyt, minkälaiseen
puuhaan olin ryhtynyt, enkä minkälaisen miehen kanssa joutuisin
tekemisiin. Kun pyysin päästä hänen oppilaakseen, antoi hän
ensitöiksi minun kestää tutkinnon, joka oli pahempi kuin
kadettikouluun pyrittäessä. Mutta lopulta sentään sain jäädä hänen
luokseen. Vasta seuraavana päivänä uskalsin sanoa olevani teidän
lähettinne. Silloin luulin hänen ajavan minut talostaan. Hän sanoi
minua urkkijaksi, nuuskijaksi. Turhaan vakuuttelin hänelle, että te
todella olitte lähettänyt minut. Hän ei ollut sitä kuulevinaankaan.
Vasta kun tunnustin, että olimme ryhtyneet työhön, jota emme
kyenneetkään lopettamaan, hän suostui kuuntelemaan. Mutta hän ei
vieläkään myöntynyt. Hän väitti, että koko juttu oli hänen
vihollistensa virittämä ansa. Vasta eilen, kun annoin hänelle ne
viisikolmatta louisdoria, jotka teidän majesteettinne oli luovuttanut
minulle hänelle vietäväksi, sanoi hän: 'Ahaa, se voi tosiaankin olla
kuninkaan asia!… Olkoon menneeksi', lisäsi hän, 'huomenna
lähdemme. Joka ei mitään uskalla, ei mitään voitakaan.' Koko
iltapäivän pidin mestaria tässä hyvässä vireessä ja tänä aamuna
sanoin: 'Kas niin, nyt on aika lähteä!' Yhä vieläkin hän esitti
verukkeita, mutta myöntyi sentään lopulta. Sitaisin esiliinan hänen
vyölleen, panin kepin hänen käteensä ja työnsin hänet ulos. Tulimme
Pariisintietä ja nyt olemme täällä!»

»Tervetuloa!» virkkoi kuningas ja kiitti silmäniskulla nuorta miestä,

jolla näytti olleen tämän tarinan sisällön ja etenkin sen ulkoasun
muovailussa yhtä paljon vaivaa kuin mestari Gamainilla olisi ollut, jos
hän olisi yrittänyt pitää puhetta Bossuetin hautapuheen tai Fléchierin
saarnan malliin. »Ja nyt, ystävä Gamain», jatkoi kuningas, »koska
sinulla tuntuu olevan kiire, älkäämme tuhlatko aikaa».

»Juuri niin», vastasi lukkoseppämestari. »Lupasin sitäpaitsi rouva

Gamainille tulla illaksi kotiin. Katselkaamme nyt sitä kuuluisaa
lukkoa.»

Kuningas pani mestarin käteen neljännestä vailla valmiin lukon.

»No, mutta sinähän sanoit tämän olevan Bernhardin lukon»,

virkkoi mestari oppipojalle. »Bernhardin lukko aukeaa molemmilta
puolilta, tolvana, ja tämä on vain tavallinen matka-arkun lukko.
Katsotaanpa, katsotaanpa… Ei ota oikein kääntyäkseen, häh?…
Mutta kyllä mestari Gamain panee sen kääntymään.»
 Gamain yritti kiertää avainta.

»Ahaa, nyt huomaan, kuinka sen laita on.»

»Oletko löytänyt vian, rakas Gamain?»

»Totta toki!»

»Näytä se minulle.»

»Se on pian tehty. Katsokaa nyt. Avaimen lehti tarttuu kyllä isoon
pidättäjään ja saa sen liukumaan puolitiehen, mutta koska se ei ole
reunaltaan lovitettu, ei se pääsekään enää vapaaksi, siinä koko
juttu… Koska pidättäjän liukuväli on kuusi linjaa, täytyy karan olla
yhden linjan pituinen.»

Ludvig XVI ja oppipoika silmäilivät toisiaan kummastellen

Gamainin neuvokkuutta.

»Ja, hyvä jumala, kuinka yksinkertainen koko tämä juttu onkaan!»

virkkoi mestari, jota hänen seuralaistensa sanaton ihastus kannusti.
»En jaksa käsittää edes, kuinka olette sen unohtanut. Senjälkeen
kuin viimeksi teidät näin, sire, olette kai hautonut mielessänne
monenlaisia joutavuuksia, jotka ovat vieneet muistinne! Tässä on
kolme pidättäjää vai mitä? Yksi iso ja kaksi pientä? Yksi viiden linjan,
kaksi parin linjan pituista?»

»Epäilemättä», myönsi kuningas tarkaten melko uteliaana

Gamainin esitystä.

»No niin, kun avain on kirvoittanut ison pidättäjän, täytyy sen

voida avata lukonkieli, jonka se on vastikään sulkenut, eikö niin?»
 »Niin täytyy», sanoi kuningas.

»Sen täytyy siis ylösalasin käännettynä, toisin sanoin, palatessaan

lähtökohtaansa, voida tarttua toiseen pidättäjään samalla hetkellä
kun se kirvoittaa ensimmäisen, vai mitä?»

»Vallan niin», myönsi kuningas.

»Vallan niin!» kertasi Gamain pilkallisesti. »Mutta kuinka arvelette

avain-paran voivan sen tehdä, jos ison ja pienen pidättäjän väli ei ole
yhtä suuri kuin lehden karan paksuus, häh?»

»Ahaa!»

»Ahaa!» toisti Gamain jälleen. »Vaikka olettekin Ranskan kuningas

ja vaikka sanottekin pikku pidättäjälle: 'Minä tahdon! niin vastaa
tämä: 'Mutta minäpä en tahdo!' Ja siinä sitä ollaan. Juttu on sama
kuin kinastellessanne kansalliskokouksen kanssa, jolloin
kansalliskokous vetää aina pitemmän korren.»

»Mutta», kysyi kuningas Gamainilta, »voihan sen toki auttaa,

mestari?»

»Hitossa, sen voi kyllä auttaa! Ei tarvitse muuta kuin muovailla

ensimmäisen pidättäjän reuna vinoksi, katkaista kara linjaa
lyhemmäksi, siirtää toinen pidättäjä neljän linjan päähän
ensimmäisestä ja laittaa saman matkan päähän kolmas pidättäjä —
siinä koko juttu.»

»Mutta», huomautti kuningas, »kaikkiin näihin muutoksiin menee

kokonainen työpäivä, Gamain-parka?»
 »Niin, niin, joku toinen kyllä tarvitsisi kokonaisen päivän, mutta
Gamainille riittää pari tuntia. Mutta minun on annettava työskennellä
rauhassa eikä minua saa häiritä turhanaikaisilla huomautuksilla…
Gamain, tänne! Gamain, tuonne!… Jätettäköön minut siis yksin.
Pajassa näkyy olevan riittävästi työkaluja. Parin tunnin perästä… niin,
parin tunnin perästä, jos työskentely saa kunnollisen kostukkeen»,
jatkoi Gamain naurahtaen, »voitte tulla katsomaan. Työ on silloin
valmis.»

Gamainin pyyntö vastasi tarkalleen kuninkaan toivomuksia. Siten

hän saisi tilaisuuden puhella kahden kesken oppipojan kanssa.

Muodon vuoksi hän sentään esitti eräitä vastaväitteitä.

»Mutta jos tarvitsette jotakin, Gamain-rukka?»

»Jos jotakin tarvitsen, kutsun kamaripalvelijan, ja mikäli hän saa

määräyksen tuoda minulle mitä pyydän… on siinä kaikki mitä
tarvitaan.»

Kuningas itse meni ovelle ja sanoi:

»François, olkaa hyvä ja pysytelkää lähettyvillä. Täällä on entinen

mestarini, Gamain, joka on tullut korjaamaan erästä epäonnistunutta
teostani. Antakaa hänelle, mitä hän pyytää, ja ennen kaikkea pari
pullollista hyvää bordeauxia.»

»Vielä ystävällisempi olisitte, sire, jos muistaisitte, että pidän

enemmän bourgognesta. Hiton bordeaux maistuu kuin joisi haaleaa
vettä!»

»Oh, vallan oikein… unohdin tyystin», sanoi Ludvig XVI nauraen.

»Olemmehan yhdessä maistelleet useammin kuin kerran, Gamain-
parka…
Bourgognea siis, François, ymmärrättehän, volnayta!»

»Mainiota!» huudahti Gamain ja maiskutti huuliaan. »Muistan sen

merkin.»

»Ja vesi tulee suuhusi, mitä?»

»Älkää puhuko vedestä, sire. En tiedä, kelpaako se muuhun kuin

raudan jäähdyttämiseen. Ne, jotka käyttävät sitä muuhunkin, ovat
erehtyneet sen todellisesta tarkoitusperästä… Vesi, huh!»

»Oh, saat olla rauhassa. Niin kauan kuin olet täällä, et kuule
puhuttavan vedestä, ja jottemme vahingossakaan tulisi sitä sanaa
lausuneeksi, jätämme sinut yksiksesi. Kun olet työsi päättänyt,
lähetä noutamaan meidät.»

»Entä mitä te aiotte sillaikaa puuhailla?»

»Valmistelemme kaappia, johon tämä lukko on aiottu.»

»No, se työ sopiikin teille. Onnea vain!»

»Samaa sinulle», vastasi kuningas.

Ja nyökäytettyään ystävälliset hyvästit Gamainille kuningas lähti

työpajasta, mukanaan oppipoika Louis Lecomte eli kreivi Louis, sillä
me oletamme, että tarkkanäköinen lukija on jo oivaltanut tekaistun
oppipojan olevan markiisi de Bouillén pojan.
VII

Puhutaan kaikesta muusta kuin lukkosepän ammatista

Ludvig XVI ei poistunut työpajasta yhteisiä ulkoportaita pitkin,

vaan häntä varten laitettuja erikoisportaita, jotka opastivat suoraan
hänen työhuoneeseensa.

Erään pöydän peitti kokonaan suunnaton Ranskan kartta, mikä

todisti, että kuningas oli jo varemminkin tutkinut lyhintä ja
mukavinta tietä, jota hän voisi käyttää valtakunnasta paetessansa.

Mutta vasta työhuoneessa, kun ovi oli sulkeutunut ja Ludvig XVI

luonut tutkivan silmäyksen ympärilleen, hän tuntui huomanneen,
että häntä oli seurannut oppipoika, joka nuttu olalla ja hattu kädessä
nyt seisoi työhuoneessa.

»Vihdoinkin», sanoi hän, »olemme kahden, rakas kreivi. Sallikaa

minun ensiksi onnitella taitoanne ja kiittää teitä alttiudestanne.»

»Ja sallikaa, sire», vastasi nuori mies, »minun pyytää anteeksi

teidän majesteetiltanne, että edes teidän palvelukseksenne olen
uskaltanut esiintyä tällaisessa asussa ja puhutella teitä kuten olen
puhutellut».

»Olette puhunut kuten kelpo aatelismiehen tulee, rakas Louis, ja

minkälainen asu yllänne onkin, uskollinen sydän sykkii sen sisällä.
Mutta asiaan, meillä ei ole aikaa tuhlata. Ei kukaan, ei edes
kuningatar, tiedä teidän olevan täällä. Kukaan ei kuuntele meitä.
Sanokaa pian, millä asialla olette tullut tänne.»

»Eikö teidän majesteettinne ole kunnioittanut isääni lähettämällä

hänen luokseen erästä hovinne upseeria?»

»Kyllä, herra de Charnyn.»

»Niin, herra de Charnyn. Hänellä oli mukanaan kirje…»

»Vähäpätöinen kirje», keskeytti kuningas, »kirje, joka oli vain

suullisesti esitettävän tehtävän johdanto».

»Sen suullisen tehtävän hän on suorittanut, sire. Minä olen tullut

Pariisiin isäni lähettämänä ilmoittamaan, että mainittu asia on
toimitettu, ja saadakseni keskustella teidän majesteettinne kanssa
kahdenkesken.»

»Tiedättekö siis kaikki?»

»Tiedän, että kuningas toivoo otollisen hetken tullen voivansa

turvallisena lähteä Ranskasta.»

»Ja että hän on luottanut markiisi de Bouilléhen, mieheen, joka

parhaiten pystyy edistämään hänen suunnitelmaansa?»
 »Minun isäni on sekä ylpeä että kiitollinen siitä kunniasta, jota
olette osoittanut hänelle, sire.»

»Mutta siirtykäämme pääasiaan. Mitä hän sanoo hankkeesta?»

»Että se on uhkarohkea ja vaatii tavatonta varovaisuutta, mutta ei

ole mahdoton toteuttaa.»

»Ennen kaikkea», sanoi kuningas, »eikö herra de Bouillélle, jotta

hänen avunannostaan koituisi kaikki se teho, jota hänen
uskollisuutensa ja alttiutensa lupaavat, olisi uskottava Metzin
päällikkyyden lisäksi eräiden muidenkin maakuntien, etenkin
Franche-Comtén käskynhaltijan tointa?»

»Samaa mieltä on isänikin, sire, ja minä olen onnellinen siitä, että

kuningas ensimmäisenä on ilmaissut käsityksensä tästä asiasta.
Markiisi pelkäsi, että kuningas voisi arvella hänen henkilökohtaisen
kunnianhimonsa…»

»No, no, enkö muka tuntisi isänne epäitsekkyyttä? Antakaapa nyt

kuulua, onko hän selittänyt teille, mikä tie olisi valittava?»

»Ennen muuta, sire, isäni pelkää yhtä seikkaa.»

»Mitä seikkaa?»

»Sitä, että ne monet pakosuunnitelmat, joita teidän

majesteetillenne esitetään milloin Espanjan, milloin Itävallan taholta,
milloin Torinon emigranttien taholta, voivat haitata toisiaan ja tehdä
tyhjäksi hänen suunnitelmansa jonkun sellaisen aavistamattoman
tapahtuman muodossa, joka tavallisesti pannaan sattuman tiliin ja
joka melkein aina on puolueiden keskinäisen kateuden ja
varomattomuuden seurausta.»