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USA
9th Edition
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USA
9th Edition
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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111 River St.
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Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
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ISBN 0-7645-7460-4
Editor: Naomi Kraus
with Christina Summers and Aliyah Vinikoor
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps viii
1 Planning Your Trip to the USA 1

1 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 Money Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .18
3 Health, Insurance & Safety . . . . .6 7 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .19
4 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .9 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .21
5 Getting Around 8 Special Interest Vacation
the United States . . . . . . . . . . .12 Planner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
6 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .17 9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .29
2 New England 31
1 Boston & Cambridge . . . . . . . .31 6 Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Take Me Out to the 7 Providence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Ballgame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 8 Southern Vermont . . . . . . . . . .85
2 Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 9 The White Mountains
3 Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . . .62 of New Hampshire . . . . . . . . . .93
4 The Berkshires . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 10 The Maine Coast . . . . . . . . . . .97
5 Mystic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Staying & Dining at
A Casino in the Woods . . . . . . .76 the White Barn . . . . . . . . . . .101
3 The Mid-Atlantic 107

1 New York City . . . . . . . . . . . .107 A Vegas Resort in
Park It! Shakespeare, Music & Atlantic City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Other Free Fun . . . . . . . . . . . .134 5 Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
2 Historic Highlights of the 6 Side Trips from Philadelphia:
Hudson River Valley . . . . . . . .137 The Amish Country, the
3 Upstate New York Brandywine Valley & More . . .173
Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 All Things Chocolate . . . . . . . .175
Cooperstown: Checking Out 7 Pittsburgh & Western
Baseball’s Best Moments . . . .144 Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
4 Highlights of the New Jersey 8 Baltimore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Shore: Atlantic City & 9 Washington, D.C. . . . . . . . . . .196
Cape May . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
4 The Southeast 219

1 Jefferson’s Virginia: 2 Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
Charlottesville & Monticello . . .219 3 Williamsburg &
Another Nearby Presidential Colonial Virginia . . . . . . . . . . .227
Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 4 The Shenandoah Valley . . . . . .238
iv CONTENTS
A Side Trip to Warm Springs & 12 Charlotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291

Hot Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 13 The Blue Ridge Parkway . . . . .293
5 Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244 14 Asheville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296
6 Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 15 Great Smoky Mountains
7 Hilton Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .299
8 Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 16 Highlights of Kentucky . . . . . .304
9 Myrtle Beach & the 17 Eastern Tennessee . . . . . . . . .312
Grand Strand . . . . . . . . . . . . .282 18 Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .316
10 Wilmington & the 19 Memphis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .326
Outer Banks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285
11 Pinehurst: Where Golf
Is King . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
5 Florida 334
1 Walt Disney World & 4 Miami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .369
Orlando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334 Five Fabulous Historic
FASTPASS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
2 Highlights of Northeast 5 Everglades National Park . . . .387
Florida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358 6 The Keys & Key West . . . . . . .389
3 Fort Lauderdale & 7 Tampa & St. Petersburg . . . . . .398
Palm Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . .365
6 The Gulf South 413

1 Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . . . . .413 3 Highlights of Mississippi . . . . .427
2 Montgomery . . . . . . . . . . . . .421 Visiting Jackson . . . . . . . . . . .432
The Civil Rights Trail . . . . . . . .423 4 New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . .437
Cruise through Mobile . . . . . .427
7 The Midwest 458

1 Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .458 Five Cool (& Free) American
2 Cleveland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .482 Factory Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . .518
3 Cincinnati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .493 7 Minneapolis & St. Paul . . . . . .523
4 Indianapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .498 8 Kansas City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .534
5 Detroit & Highlights Best Bets for Kids . . . . . . . . . .536
of Michigan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .506 9 St. Louis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .544
6 Milwaukee & Highlights 10 Branson & the Ozarks . . . . . . .553
of Wisconsin . . . . . . . . . . . . .516
CONTENTS v
8 The Northern Rockies & Great Plains 560

1 The Flathead & Montana’s 7 The Black Hills & the Badlands
Northwest Corner . . . . . . . . . .560 of South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . .594
2 Glacier National Park . . . . . . .567 8 Idaho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .601
3 Bozeman & South-Central 9 Oklahoma City . . . . . . . . . . . .606
Montana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .570 Ride ’em Cowboy . . . . . . . . . .609
4 Little Bighorn Battlefield 10 Omaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .611
National Monument . . . . . . . .575
It’s All Happening
5 Jackson Hole & Grand Teton at the Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .613
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .577
Best Bets for Kids . . . . . . . . . .614
6 Yellowstone National Park . . . .585
9 Texas 616
1 Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .616 5 San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . .643
2 Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .626 6 Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .651
3 Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .632 7 The Hill Country . . . . . . . . . . .659
4 Galveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .640 8 The Trans-Pecos . . . . . . . . . . .661
10 Colorado & Utah 665

1 Denver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .665 6 Southwestern Colorado . . . . . .696
2 Boulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .676 7 Salt Lake City . . . . . . . . . . . . .702
3 Rocky Mountain 8 Park City: Utah’s Premier
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .679 Resort Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709
4 More Highlights of the Northern 9 Zion National Park . . . . . . . . .716
Colorado Rockies . . . . . . . . . .683 10 Bryce Canyon National Park . . .720
Hitting Colorado’s Slopes . . . .684 11 Capitol Reef National Park . . .722
5 Colorado Springs . . . . . . . . . .693 12 Arches National Park . . . . . . .725
11 The Southwest 728

1 Las Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .728 8 The Petrified Forest &
2 Reno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .746 Painted Desert . . . . . . . . . . . .795
3 Phoenix & Scottsdale . . . . . . .753 9 Albuquerque . . . . . . . . . . . . .796
4 Tucson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .766 10 White Sands National
Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .803
Two World-Class Spas . . . . . .774
11 Carlsbad Caverns
5 Central Arizona & Sedona . . . .778
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .805
6 Flagstaff & the
12 Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .806
Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . .782
13 Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .816
7 Monument Valley &
Canyon de Chelly . . . . . . . . . .790 Hitting the Slopes of Taos . . . .819
vi CONTENTS
12 California 824
1 San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . . . .824 Burgers & Bullets at
2 The Wine Country . . . . . . . . . .841 the Iron Door Saloon . . . . . . .876
Find the New You—in a 8 Santa Barbara . . . . . . . . . . . .885
Calistoga Mud Bath . . . . . . . .844 9 Los Angeles & Environs . . . . . .887
3 The Northern Coast . . . . . . . .848 Seeing the Stars at Work . . . .897
4 The Monterey Peninsula & 10 The Disneyland Resort . . . . . .906
the Big Sur Coast . . . . . . . . . .855 11 San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .909
5 San Simeon: Hearst Castle . . .866 12 Palm Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . .923
6 Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .869 13 Death Valley National Park . . .928
7 Yosemite National Park . . . . . .875
13 The Pacific Northwest 932

1 Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .932 6 Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .964
A Sporting Town . . . . . . . . . .946 7 The Oregon Coast . . . . . . . . .975
2 The San Juan Islands . . . . . . .951 8 The Columbia River Gorge &
3 The Olympic Peninsula & Mount Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . .981
Olympic National Park . . . . . .955 9 Crater Lake National Park . . . .983
4 Mount Rainier Two World-Class Festivals
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .960 in Southern Oregon . . . . . . . .984
5 Mount St. Helens National
Volcanic Monument . . . . . . . .962
14 Alaska & Hawaii 986

1 Southeast Alaska . . . . . . . . . .986 4 Honolulu & Oahu . . . . . . . . .1003
Arriving by Cruise Ship . . . . . .988 5 Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1010
2 Denali National Park . . . . . . . .997 6 The Big Island . . . . . . . . . . .1017
3 Anchorage, Alaska . . . . . . . .1000 Coffee Farms . . . . . . . . . . . .1022
Appendix A: The Best of the Rest 1023

1 Arkansas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1023 4 North Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . .1032
Soaking in Hot Springs . . . . .1025 The Park that Launched
2 Iowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1026 Them All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1034
3 Kansas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1029 5 West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . .1035
Rising from the Ashes . . . . . .1031 A Hotel Fit for Congress . . . .1037
Appendix B: State Tourism Offices 1039

CONTENTS vii
Appendix C: For International Visitors 1043

1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . .1043 Fast Facts: For the International
2 Getting to the U.S. . . . . . . . .1047 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1048
3 Getting Around the U.S. . . . .1047
Appendix D: Useful Toll-Free Numbers &

Websites 1052
Index 1055
List of Maps
The USA—Major Downtown Minneapolis 525

Interstate Routes 2 Downtown St. Paul 527
New England 32 Kansas City 535
Boston 38 St. Louis 545
Martha’s Vineyard 63 The Northern Rockies &
Newport 79 Great Plains 562
The Mid-Atlantic 108 The Black Hills 595
Manhattan Neighborhoods 115 Texas 617
New York City: Midtown Dallas–Fort Worth Area 620
Accommodations & Dining 124 Houston 634
Atlantic City 148 Central San Antonio 647
Philadelphia 160 Central Austin 655
Downtown Baltimore 187 Colorado & Utah 667
Washington, D.C. 198 Downtown Denver 668
The Southeast 220 Downtown Salt Lake City 705
Williamsburg Historic District 231 The Southwest 730
Atlanta at a Glance 245 Phoenix, Scottsdale &
Savannah 259 the Valley of the Sun 754
Charleston 273 Tucson 768
The Blue Ridge Parkway 295 Central Albuquerque 797
Nashville 318 Downtown Santa Fe 807
Memphis 328 Central Taos 817
Florida 335 California 825
Miami Beach & South Beach 371 San Francisco 828
Key West 395 Los Angeles 888
Tampa & St. Petersburg 400 San Diego Area 911
The Gulf South 415 Balboa Park 915
New Orleans 438 The Pacific Northwest 933
The French Quarter 443 Downtown Seattle 936
The Midwest 460 Portland 968
Chicago 470 Alaska 987
Cleveland 483 Hawaii 1005
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disap-
pointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s USA, 9th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Acknowledgments
This book has been created from dozens of Frommer’s guides covering the United States,
and it simply couldn’t exist without the tireless efforts of our many talented writers. They
deserve special recognition for spending countless hours hitting the pavement, inspecting
hotels, sampling restaurants, chasing down information, and visiting attractions so they
can offer you the best logistical tips.
Thanks for a job well done year in and year out to: Lesley Abravanel, David Baird,
Harry Basch, Elizabeth Canning Blackwell, Shane Christensen, Amy Donohue, Elise
Ford, Jeanette Foster, Bill Goodwin, Mary Herczog, Edie Jarolim, Paul Karr, Lesley King,
Don and Barbara Laine, Erika Lenkert, Herbert Bailey Livesey, Laura Miller, Marie
Morris, Eric Peterson, Matthew Poole, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince, Karen
Quarles, Laura Reckford, Linda Romine, Karl Samson and Jane Aukshunas, Neil
Schlecht, Brian Silverman, David Swanson, Mary K. Tilgman, and Charles Wohlforth.
Special thanks also go to another group of contributors, who covered destinations
especially for this guide: Amy Donohoe (Philadelphia), Karen Snyder (Atlanta), Darwin
Porter and Danforth Prince (Carolinas and Georgia), Linda Romine (Cleveland,
Cincinnati, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi), Amy Eckert (Pittsburgh,
Michigan, Wisconsin, Minneapolis, and St. Paul), Beth Reiber (St. Louis, Kansas City,
Branson, Oklahoma City, and Omaha), David Baird (Texas), Karl Samson (Oregon),
Harry Basch (South Dakota and Reno), and Bill McRae (Idaho).
Major kudos to on-staff contributors Christine Ryan, Ian Skinnari, Bethany André,
Aliyah Vinikoor, and Naomi Kraus. Special thanks to editorial intern Erin Weaver for
her assistance.
This book also owes much to our on-staff cartographers: Roberta Stockwell,
Elizabeth Puhl, and Nicholas Trotter.
Frommer’s Icons & Abbreviations
This book uses three feature icons that point you to the great deals, family-friendly
options, and top experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book,
look for:
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
Best The best hotel, restaurant, or attraction in the city or region
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.
com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regu-
larly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available.
At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
1
Planning Your Trip to the USA
I f the United States has one defining quality, it’s variety. This vast area of some
3.6 million square miles—it’s 2,500 miles from New York to Los Angeles, and
that again to Hawaii—has something for everyone.
Although TV, suburban sprawl, strip malls, and chain restaurants have a
homogenizing effect, America hasn’t yet become a monolithic place. Each region
still speaks with its own accent, enjoys its own favorite foods, and has its own politi-
cal and social attitudes. Indeed, you sometimes wonder if we aren’t one nation but
an amalgam of 50 little countries. We’ve seen New Yorkers floored by the laid-back
pace of the West Coast (but ultimately thrilled by the “enforced” relaxation), and
Southerners slightly frazzled by the Big Apple’s breakneck pace (but totally
enthused by the vast number of shopping and dining opportunities in the space
of a few square miles). Whatever you want to see, do, or eat, you’re likely to find
it within the vast and diverse confines of the United States of America.
WHAT’S HERE & WHAT’S NOT

It’s not easy to boil down the essence of so we used the space to include more
such a huge, varied, complicated coun- detailed and useful information on the
try. No doubt, some of you will look at Vineyard, which is larger and easier
the table of contents and raise an eye- to reach. We’ve applied the same sort
brow at what’s missing. That’s sure to of logic to our destination choices
be the case with any guide professing to throughout. And thanks to your feed-
cover the entire United States. back and our research, we’ve added
This book doesn’t pretend to be com- coverage of several major new destina-
prehensive. It’s simply not possible to tions to this edition, including
cover every great destination in the Reno, Nevada; the Gulf South; Okla-
country in one usable volume. We did, homa City, Oklahoma; and Omaha,
however, concentrate on a select group Nebraska. In the end, we’ve come
of destinations that will appeal to a wide up with a list of destinations that’s rep-
cross-section of domestic travelers, be resentative of the very best America
they road-trippers, business travelers, has to offer—cities, national parks,
outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs, or beaches, resort areas, and more.
museum-lovers. This way, rather than And because we recognize the
glossing over lots of destinations with diversity of American travelers and
coverage that’s broad but an inch deep, their interests, for the first time in this
we’ve been able to offer you in-depth, guide’s history, you will find at least
practical coverage you can really use. some information on every single state
Take, for example, Martha’s Vine- in the Union inside these pages. And
yard and Nantucket: We’d love to in a brand-new appendix, we high-
cover both islands, but we chose to light the best offerings of five states
focus on Martha’s Vineyard instead. that would otherwise get the (unde-
Few travelers have time to visit both, served) short end of the stick.
2 C H A P T E R 1 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO T H E U S A
The USA—Major Interstate Routes

Vancouver B R IT ISH
Victoria Lake
CO LUM B IA A LB ER T A Winnipeg
S AS KATC HEWAN
MANITOBA
Seattle Regina
Winnipeg
WA
90 15
Portland 82
Missoula 29
84 MT ND
Helena Fargo Fa
90 Billings 94
94
5 OR Boise
ID Sheridan
Rapid
15
Jackson City SD
Sioux Si
84
86 25
90 Falls 90
15
WY
84 29
80 80
Sacramento Reno
Cheyenne NE
Salt Lake Lincoln
City Linc
80 NV Boulder
80
29
San UT
Francisco 70 Denver
CA 15 Colorado 70
5
Las Springs
CO KS
Vegas 25
Santa Wichita Wich
Barbara AZ
15 Santa OK 35
40 Flagstaff Fe
Los Oklahoma
Amarillo City
Angeles 17 40
10
Albuquerque 27
San Diego Phoenix
8 NM Wichita
44
Mexicali 25
Tucson Lubbock Falls
Dallas
10 Ft.
19 El Paso 20
Worth Wo
10
TX
35
10
45
Hermosillo Austin
PACIFIC 10
San Houst
Chihuahua Antonio
OCEAN 37
Nuevo Laredo
MEXICO
Brownsville
wnsville
Monterrey
Matamoros
Matam
Culiacan
Legend
95 Interstate Highway
National Capital
International Boundary
State Boundary
AL State (abbreviation)
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO T H E U S A 3
Ontario
New
CANADA Brunswick
Quebec
ME
29 perior
e Su 95
ak Montreal
Sault Ste. Marie Quebec
L
argo
MN L Augusta
Ottawa
ak
35 89 NH
eH
87 VT 93 Portland
uron
an
75
St. Paul NY 91 Boston
Lake Michig
ario
Minneapolis Toronto Ont MA Cape
ioux 94
WI L. 90 Albany
43 Niagara Falls Cod
0Falls 90 Milwaukee
MI 75 69
87
84
Providence
Detroit
90
81
95
RI
35
94 96
E rie 84 CT
29
94 L.
Cleveland
PA 80
80
IA 90 78
95
New York City
Chicago 80 90
80 Pittsburgh Philadelphia NJ
Des 69 75 77 83
coln Moines 55
65 71
70
76
MD Atlantic City
74
29 Indianapolis 70 OH 68 Baltimore DE
Kansas
IL 70 Cincinnati WV 66 Washington, D.C.
57 74
City IN 79 81
95
70
64 Charleston VA Richmond
St. 70
71
MO Louis Louisville 85
hita44 44
55 65 KY 75 81
24 85
77
NC Raleigh
35 Nashville 40 40 Charlotte
TN 24 Asheville 95
40
Memphis 65 77 Wilmington
AR 40 75 85
26
SC
Little 55 Birmingham
Rock Atlanta 20 ATLANTIC
30 30 20 GA 95 Charleston
MS AL 16 OCEAN
Ft. 20 Savannah
orth Jackson 75
65
LA 55 59 Jacksonville
35 Mobile 10
10
Tallahassee
45 10
10 75
10 New Orleans Orlando

ton Houston Tampa 4
37 St. Petersburg
FL
95
75
Miami
moros Gu lf o f M exi c o
0 200 mi
N
0 200 km
We hope you’ll discover your own more dedicated, in-depth guidebook

America as you hit the road and start for you; see the complete list of desti-
exploring. If you’d like more coverage nations covered by Frommer’s guides at
of the destinations covered here, or if the end of this book. Happy trails!
any of them prompt you to explore fur- Note: International visitors, be sure
ther—if you want to see Nantucket, to check out appendix C as well for
say, after the Vineyard has charmed planning information tailored exclu-
you—chances are good that we have a sively to you.
1 When to Go
Climate differences are dramatic across England is practically famous for
the United States. When it’s shivering its nor’easters—though some Mid-
cold in New England, the upper central Atlantic winters in the not-too-distant
states, and Alaska, it’s sunny and warm past have been remarkably mild (and
in Florida, California, and Hawaii. others have been frigid—the unpre-
When it’s raining cats and dogs along dictability of the weather in this region
the Northwest coast, it’s dry as a bone is always a safe topic of discussion).
in the Southwest desert. It can be a Summer can be brutally hot and
pleasant 75°F (24°C) on the beaches of humid in the Southeast (and is also
Southern California in summer, yet prime hurricane season), but spring
120°F (49°C) just a few miles inland. and fall last longer there, and winter is
And there isn’t a nationwide high or mild—with snow the exception rather
low season. In summer, room rates than the rule. The Gulf South sum-
are highest on the Northeast and mers are often exceptionally sticky and
Mid-Atlantic beaches but lowest on hot, though winters (except in the
the sands of hot-and-humid Florida mountain areas) are generally mild, if
(though not in central Florida, where rainy. Southern Florida’s best season is
rates can reach sky-high proportions) from January to April, though cold
and in the sticky climes of the Gulf snaps can turn it nippy for a few days.
South. Winter snows virtually close the The central states see harsh winters
great Rocky Mountain national parks and scorching summers. Southwest
and the major tourism centers of the weather varies from east Texas’s hot,
northern Great Plains, but they bring humid summers and mild winters to
crowds to the nearby ski slopes. Alaska Arizona’s dry, 110°F (43°C) summers
is usually well below freezing until and pleasant, dry winters. Nevada is
summer, when the Midnight Sun similar, though it tends to get a bit
smiles down on warm days, and higher chillier in winter. The mountains of
hotel rates greet the tourist crowds. Colorado, Utah, and the Northwest
Hawaii is warm year-round, but the have dry, moderately hot summers and
winter season brings massive amounts cold, snowy winters. The California
of rain with it, along with higher prices. coast is fine all year except early spring,
The Northeast and Mid-Atlantic when it rains; the Northwest coast is
states have their summer beach season wet most of the time except July.
from June to Labor Day and their great The long and the short of it: Late
fall foliage in September and October. spring and early fall are the best times
Climate can vary wildly in these to visit most of the country. See “Spe-
regions: One day can be warm and cial Events & Festivals” in all the chap-
lovely, the next muggy and miserable. ters that follow for more dates around
Winter storms are not an infrequent which to plan your trip.
occurrence in these regions—New
M O N E Y M AT T E R S 5
2 Money Matters
ATMS are less necessary because most cities
The easiest and best way to get cash have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to
away from home is from an ATM withdraw small amounts of cash as
(automated teller machine). The Cirrus needed. However, keep in mind that
(& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard. you will likely be charged an ATM
com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; withdrawal fee if the bank is not your
www.visa.com) networks span the own, so if you’re withdrawing money
country; look at the back of your bank every day, you might be better off with
card to see which network you’re on, traveler’s checks.
then call or check online for ATM loca- You can get traveler’s checks at
tions at your destination. Be sure you almost any bank. American Express
know your personal identification num- offers several denominations. You’ll pay
ber (PIN) before you leave home and be a service charge ranging from 1% to
sure to find out your daily withdrawal 4%. You can also get American Express
limit before you depart. Also keep in traveler’s checks over the phone by call-
mind that many banks impose a fee ing & 800/221-7282; Amex gold and
every time a card is used at a different platinum cardholders who use this
bank’s ATM; that fee can reach as much number are exempt from the 1% fee.
as $3 in some places. On top of this, the Visa offers traveler’s checks at
bank from which you withdraw cash Citibank locations nationwide, as well
may charge its own fee. To compare as at several other banks. The service
banks’ ATM fees within the U.S., use charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%.
www.bankrate.com. Call & 800/732-1322 for informa-
You can also get cash advances on tion. AAA members can obtain Visa
your credit card at an ATM. Keep in checks without a fee at most AAA
mind that credit card companies try to offices or by calling & 866/339-3378.
protect themselves from theft by lim- MasterCard also offers traveler’s
iting the funds someone can withdraw checks. Call & 800/223-9920 for a
per day, so call your credit card com- location near you.
pany before you leave home. And keep If you choose to carry traveler’s
in mind that you’ll pay interest from checks, be sure to keep a record of
the moment of your withdrawal, even their serial numbers separate from
if you pay your monthly bills on time. your checks in the event that they are
ATM cards with major credit card stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster
backing, known as “debit cards,” are if you know the numbers.
now a commonly acceptable form of
payment in most stores and restaurants.
CREDIT CARDS
Credit cards are a safe way to carry
Debit cards draw money directly from
money: They also provide a convenient
your checking account. Some stores
record of all your expenses. You can
enable you to receive “cash back” on
also withdraw cash advances from your
your debit-card purchases as well.
credit cards at banks or ATMs, pro-
TRAVELER’S CHECKS vided you know your PIN. If you’ve
Traveler’s checks used to be the only forgotten yours, or didn’t even know
sound alternative to traveling with you had one, call the number on the
dangerously large amounts of cash. back of your credit card and ask the
They were as reliable as currency but, bank to send it to you. It usually takes
unlike cash, could be replaced if lost 5 to 7 business days, though some
or stolen. These days, traveler’s checks banks will provide the number over the
phone if you tell them your mother’s U.S. cities may require a minimum
maiden name or some other personal purchase, usually around $10, before
information. (Note: Businesses in some letting you use a credit card.)
3 Health, Insurance & Safety

HEALTH you’re climbing at high altitudes,
The United States doesn’t present any where the air is thinner and it’s far eas-
unusual health hazards, provided ier to get a serious burn (even if the
travelers take reasonable precautions. climate is actually cold). Skin cancer
Lyme Disease, carried by deer ticks, is is one of the fastest-growing illnesses
a growing concern in the woodlands in the United States and it doesn’t take
of the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic, much time in the sun to do serious
but you can seriously minimize your damage. Remember that children
risk by using insect repellent and by need more protection than adults do.
covering up when hiking in the deep The other natural hazards for out-
woods. Should you get bitten by a tick door enthusiasts include poison ivy
or notice a bulls-eye-shaped rash after (learn to recognize and avoid it) and
hiking or camping, consult a doctor hazardous wildlife (never approach a
immediately. Another insect-related wild animal or feed it). To minimize
illness that’s become a nationwide risks, never hike alone, notify someone
issue is West Nile Virus, spread by of your planned hiking route, always
mosquitoes. Again, use insect repel- carry a first-aid kit, and check in with
lent and avoid swampy areas during park rangers to get the lowdown on
the summer mosquito season, and you possible hazards in the area in which
should encounter no problems. To you’re hiking. If you’re hiking in
keep from contracting rabies, avoid forested areas during hunting season, be
contact with wild animals, no matter sure to wear brightly colored clothing.
how cute or friendly they appear. If If you plan to head into the great
you even think you may have been outdoors, keep in mind that injuries
exposed, see a doctor at once. often occur when people fail to follow
In the Rocky Mountain states and instructions. Believe the experts who
the high elevations of the Southwest, tell you to stay on the established ski
one of the biggest health concerns is trails and hike only in designated areas.
altitude sickness. Don’t arrive in Follow the marine charts if you’re pilot-
Denver planning to tackle the Rocky ing your own boat. If you’re rafting,
Mountains on the same day—the only wear a life jacket. If you’re biking or
thing that will happen is that you’ll rock climbing, be sure to use appropri-
end up short of breath, exhausted, or ate safety gear. Mountain weather can
worse. The best way to avoid this is to be fickle at any time of the year, so
ease your transition into high altitude carry rain gear and pack a few warm
climates, drink lots of water, and get layers. Watch out for summer thunder-
plenty of rest; if you have breathing storms that can leave you drenched or
difficulties, your doctor may be able send bolts of lightning your way. In the
to prescribe medication to ease any Southwest, a summer storm can easily
difficulties. cause a flash flood, so be cautious and
If you plan on visiting some of the keep your wits about you.
country’s sun-soaked spots, limit the When camping, always inquire if
time you spend in direct sunlight and campfires are allowed in the area in
bring sunscreen with a high protection which you are traveling. Some of
factor (at least 25). Apply it liberally— the country’s worst forest fires in
and often. This advice goes double if recent years were started by careless
H E A LT H , I N S U R A N C E & S A F E T Y 7
campers who didn’t follow proper Avoid carrying valuables with you
safety protocols. on the street, and keep expensive cam-
Tap water is safe to drink through- eras or electronic equipment bagged
out the country, though you can get up or covered when not in use. If
bottled water pretty much everywhere you’re using a map, try to consult it
if you prefer it. Water in the wild inconspicuously—or better yet, study
should always be treated or boiled it before you leave your room. Hold
before drinking it. on to your pocketbook, and place
The United States Centers for Dis- your billfold in an inside pocket. In
ease Control and Prevention (& 800/ theaters, restaurants, and other public
311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up- places, keep your possessions in sight.
to-date information on health hazards Always lock your room door—don’t
by region and offers tips on food safety. assume that once you’re inside the
If you suffer from a chronic illness, hotel you are automatically safe and
consult your doctor before your no longer need to be aware of your
departure. For conditions like surroundings. Hotels are open to the
epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, public, and in a large hotel, security
wear a MedicAlert identification tag may not be able to screen everyone
(& 888/633-4298; www.medicalert. who enters.
org), which will immediately alert DRIVING SAFETY Driving safety
doctors to your condition and give is important too, and carjacking is not
them access to your records through unprecedented. Question your rental
MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. If you agency about personal safety, and ask
have dental problems, a nationwide for a traveler-safety brochure when
referral service known as 1-800-DEN- you pick up your car. Obtain written
TIST (& 800/336-8478) can give you directions—or a map with the route
the name of a nearby dentist or clinic. clearly marked—from the agency
Pack prescription medications in showing how to get to your destina-
your carry-on luggage, and carry them tion. And, if possible, arrive and
in their original containers, with phar- depart during daylight hours.
macy labels—otherwise they won’t If you drive off a highway and end
make it through airport security. Also up in a dodgy-looking neighborhood,
bring along copies of your prescrip- leave the area as quickly as possible. If
tions in case you lose your pills or run you have an accident, even on the
out. Don’t forget an extra pair of con- highway, stay in your car with the
tact lenses or prescription glasses. doors locked until you assess the situa-
SAFETY tion or until the police arrive. If you’re
Although tourist areas are generally bumped from behind on the street or
safe, U.S. urban areas have their fair are involved in a minor accident with
share of crime. You should always stay no injuries, and the situation appears
alert; this is particularly true of large to be suspicious, motion to the other
cities. If you’re in doubt about which driver to follow you. Never get out of
neighborhoods are safe, don’t hesitate your car in such situations. Go directly
to inquire at the hotel’s front desk or to the nearest police precinct, well-lit
at the local tourist office. service station, or 24-hour store. You
Avoid deserted areas, especially at may want to look into renting a cell-
night, and don’t go into public parks phone on a short-term basis. One rec-
after dark unless there’s a concert or ommended wireless rental company is
similar occasion that will attract a InTouch USA (& 800/872-7626;
crowd. www.intouchusa.com).
Park in well-lit and well-traveled report the loss within 60 days after the
areas whenever possible. Always keep charge is listed on their credit card
your car doors locked, whether the statement.
vehicle is attended or unattended. Note: Many tour operators, particu-
Never leave any packages or valuables larly those offering trips to remote or
in sight. If someone attempts to rob high-risk areas, include insurance in the
you or steal your car, don’t try to resist cost of the trip or can arrange insurance
the thief/carjacker. Report the inci- policies through a partnering provider,
dent to the police department imme- a convenient and often cost-effective
diately by calling & 911. way for the traveler to obtain insurance.
Make sure the tour company is a repu-
INSURANCE table one, however: Some experts sug-
Check your existing insurance policies gest you avoid buying insurance from
and credit card coverage before you the tour or cruise company you’re trav-
buy travel insurance. You may already eling with, saying it’s better to buy from
be covered for lost luggage, canceled a “third party” insurer than to put all
tickets, or medical expenses. your money in one place.
The cost of travel insurance varies For more information, contact one
widely, depending on the cost and of the following recommended insurers:
length of your trip, your age and Access America (& 866/807-3982;
health, and the type of trip you’re tak- www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard
ing, but expect to pay between 5% International (& 800/826-4919;
and 8% of the vacation itself. www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured
TRIP-CANCELLATION INSUR- International (& 800/243-3174;
ANCE Trip-cancellation insurance www.travelinsured.com); or Travelex
helps you get your money back if you Insurance Services (& 888/457-4602;
have to back out of a trip, if you have www.travelex-insurance.com).
to go home early, or if your travel sup- MEDICAL INSURANCE Most
plier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons health insurance policies cover you if
for cancellation can range from sickness you get sick away from home—but
to natural disasters. (Insurers usually check, particularly if you’re insured by
won’t cover vague fears, though, as an HMO. If you require additional
many travelers discovered who tried to medical insurance, try MEDEX Assis-
cancel their trips in Oct 2001 because tance (& 410/453-6300; www.medex
they were wary of flying.) In this unsta- assist.com) or Travel Assistance Inter-
ble world, trip-cancellation insurance is national (& 800/821-2828; www.
a good buy if you’re getting tickets well travelassistance.com; for general infor-
in advance—who knows what the state mation on services, call the company’s
of the world, or of your airline, will be Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at
in 9 months? Insurance policy details
& 800/777-8710).
vary, so read the fine print—and make
sure that your airline or cruise line is on LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE
the list of carriers covered in case of On domestic flights, checked baggage
bankruptcy. A good resource is “Travel is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed
Guard Alerts,” a list of companies con- passenger. If you plan to check items
sidered high-risk by Travel Guard Inter- more valuable than the standard liabil-
national (see website below). Protect ity, see if your valuables are covered by
yourself further by paying for the your homeowner’s policy, get baggage
insurance with a credit card—by law, insurance as part of your comprehen-
consumers can get their money back on sive travel-insurance package, or buy
goods and services not received if they Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product.
S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 9
Don’t buy insurance at the airport, as If your luggage is lost, immediately

it’s usually overpriced. Be sure to take file a lost-luggage claim at the airport,
any valuables or irreplaceable items detailing the luggage contents. For most
with you in your carry-on luggage, as airlines, you must report delayed, dam-
many valuables (including books, aged, or lost baggage within 4 hours
money, and electronics) aren’t covered of arrival. The airlines are required to
by airline policies. deliver luggage, once found, directly to
your house or destination free of charge.
4 Specialized Travel Resources

TRAVELERS WITH to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers
DISABILITIES and their families and friends.
Most disabilities shouldn’t stop any- Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis
one from traveling. There are more Access” program that offers such serv-
options and resources out there than ices as a dedicated 24-hour toll-free
ever before. number (& 888/879-4273) for cus-
The U.S. National Park Service tomers with special travel needs; spe-
offers a Golden Access Passport that cial car features such as swivel seats,
gives free lifetime entrance to all prop- spinner knobs, and hand controls; and
erties administered by the National accessible bus service.
Park Service—national parks, monu- Organizations that offer assistance
ments, historic sites, recreation areas, to travelers with disabilities include
and national wildlife refuges—for per- MossRehab www.mossresourcenet.
sons who are visually impaired or per- org), which provides a library of acces-
manently disabled, regardless of age. sible-travel resources online; SATH
You may pick up a Golden Access Pass- (Society for Accessible Travel & Hos-
port at any NPS entrance fee area by pitality; & 212/447-7284; www.sath.
showing proof of medically determined org; annual membership fees: $45
disability and eligibility for receiving adults, $30 seniors and students),
benefits under federal law. Besides free which offers a wealth of travel
entry, the Golden Access Passport also resources for all types of disabilities
offers a 50% discount on federal-use and informed recommendations on
fees charged for such facilities as camp- destinations, access guides, travel
ing, swimming, parking, boat launch- agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals,
ing, and tours. For more information, and companion services; and the
go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm American Foundation for the Blind
or call & 888/467-2757. (AFB; & 800/232-5463; www.afb.
Many travel agencies offer cus- org), a referral resource for the blind
tomized tours and itineraries for trav- or visually impaired that includes
elers with disabilities. Flying Wheels information on traveling with Seeing
Travel (& 507/451-5005; www.flying Eye dogs.
wheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours For more information specifically
and cruises that emphasize sports and targeted to travelers with disabilities,
private tours in minivans with lifts. the community website iCan (www.
Access-Able Travel Source (& 303/ icanonline.net/channels/travel/index.
232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers cfm) has destination guides and several
extensive access information and advice regular columns on accessible travel.
for traveling around the world with dis- Also check out the quarterly magazine
abilities. Accessible Journeys (& 800/ Emerging Horizons ($14.95 per year,
846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www. $19.95 outside the U.S.; www.
disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically emerginghorizons.com); and Open
World magazine, published by SATH SENIOR TRAVEL

(see above; subscription: $13 per year). Mention the fact that you’re a senior
when you make your travel reserva-
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS tions. Although all of the major U.S.
The International Gay and Lesbian
airlines except America West have
Travel Association (IGLTA; & 800/
canceled their senior discount and
448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.
coupon-book programs, many hotels
iglta.org) is the trade association for
still offer discounts for seniors. In
the gay and lesbian travel industry,
most cities, people over the age of 60
and offers an online directory of gay-
qualify for reduced admission to thea-
and lesbian-friendly travel businesses;
ters, museums, and other attractions,
go to their website and click on
as well as discounted fares on public
“Members.”
transportation.
Many agencies offer tours and travel
Members of AARP (formerly
itineraries specifically for gay and les-
known as the American Association of
bian travelers. Above and Beyond
Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Wash-
Tours (& 800/397-2681; www.above
ington, DC 20049 (& 888/687-2277;
beyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay
www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels,
and lesbian tour operator for United
airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers
Airlines. Now, Voyager (& 800/255-
members a wide range of benefits,
6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-
including AARP: The Magazine and a
known San Francisco–based gay-owned
monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50
and -operated travel service.
can join.
The following travel guides are
The U.S. National Park Service
available at most travel bookstores and
offers a Golden Age Passport that
gay and lesbian bookstores, or you can
gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime
order them from Giovanni’s Room
entrance to all properties administered
bookstore, 1145 Pine St., Philadel-
by the National Park Service—national
phia, PA 19107 (& 215/923-2960;
parks, monuments, historic sites,
www.giovannisroom.com): Out &
recreation areas, and national wildlife
About (& 800/929-2268; www.out
refuges—for a one-time processing fee
andabout.com), which offers guide-
of $10, which must be purchased in
books and a newsletter ($20 per year;
person at any NPS facility that charges
10 issues) packed with solid informa-
an entrance fee. Besides free entry, a
tion on the global gay and lesbian
Golden Age Passport also offers a 50%
scene; Spartacus International Gay
discount on federal-use fees charged for
Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.
such facilities as camping, swimming,
spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and
parking, boat launching, and tours. For
Odysseus: The International Gay
more information, go to www.nps.
Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises
gov/fees_passes.htm or call & 888/
Ltd.), both good, annual English-
467-2757.
language guidebooks focused on gay
Many reliable agencies and organi-
men; the Damron guides (www.
zations target the 50-plus market.
damron.com), with separate, annual
Elderhostel (& 877/426-8056; www.
books for gay men and lesbians; and
elderhostel.org) arranges study pro-
Gay Travel A to Z: The World of
grams for those ages 55 and over (and a
Gay & Lesbian Travel Options at
spouse or companion of any age) in the
Your Fingertips by Marianne Ferrari
U.S. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in
(Ferrari International; Box 35575,
the U.S. (2–4 weeks abroad), and many
Phoenix, AZ 85069), a very good gay
include airfare, accommodations in
and lesbian guidebook series.
S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 11
university dormitories or modest inns, Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753;

meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (& 800/ www.learn.unh.edu/familyhostel) takes
741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers the whole family, including kids ages 8
small-group tours to off-the-beaten- to 15, on moderately priced domestic
path or adventure-travel locations, and international learning vacations.
restricted to travelers 50 and older. Lectures, field trips, and sightseeing are
Recommended publications offer- guided by a team of academics.
ing travel resources and discounts Recommended family travel Inter-
for seniors include: the quarterly net sites include Family Travel Forum
magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. (www.familytravelforum.com), a com-
travel50andbeyond.com); Travel prehensive site that offers customized
Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures trip planning; Family Travel Network
for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an
101 Tips for Mature Travelers, avail- award-winning site that offers travel
able from Grand Circle Travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling
(& 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; Internationally with Your Kids (www.
www.gct.com); and Unbelievably travelwithyourkids.com), a compre-
Good Deals and Great Adventures hensive site offering sound advice for
That You Absolutely Can’t Get long-distance and international travel
Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw- with children; and Family Travel Files
Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman. (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which
offers an online magazine and a direc-
FAMILY TRAVEL tory of off-the-beaten-path tours and
If you have enough trouble getting tour operators for families.
your kids out of the house in the Frommer’s and the Unofficial Guides
morning, dragging them thousands of both publish a “With Kids” series that
miles away may seem like an insur- features some of the major tourist desti-
mountable challenge. But family nations in the United States.
travel can be immensely rewarding,
giving you new ways of seeing the WOMEN TRAVELERS
world through smaller pairs of eyes. More and more hotels in the United
To locate those accommodations, States are ratcheting up security meas-
restaurants, and attractions in the ures for women traveling alone on
major cities that are particularly kid- business or for pleasure. Some are even
friendly, refer to the “Kids” icon used offering secure “women only” floors,
throughout this guide. with the added perk of spa services.
On Your Own or with a Furry Friend

Prefer to do your traveling alone? So long as you avoid all-inclusive resorts
and vacation packages (which base their prices on double occupancy), you
likely won’t face the dreaded “single supplement,” a penalty added to the
base price of a room or package. For more information, check out Eleanor
Berman’s latest edition of Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than
250 Great Vacations (Globe Pequot), a guide with advice on traveling alone,
whether on your own or on a group tour. (It was last updated in 2003.)
If, like John Steinbeck, you want to take your dog (or cat, or whatever)
with you for companionship on your travels, many hotels across the U.S. will
be happy to roll out the welcome mat for your pet. For travel tips and advice
on traveling with Fido or Fluffy, head online to www.petswelcome.com,
www.pettravel.com, and www.travelpets.com.
Check out the award-winning web- private group tours; and the African
site Journeywoman (www.journey American Association of Innkeepers
woman.com), a “real life” women’s International (& 877/422-5777;
travel information network where you www.africanamericaninns.com), which
can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter provides information on member
and get advice on everything from B&Bs in the U.S.
etiquette and dress to safety; or the For more information, check out
travel guide Safety and Security for the following collections and guides:
Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan Go Girl: The Black Woman’s Guide
and Peter Laufer (Travelers’ Tales, Inc.), to Travel & Adventure (Eighth
offering common-sense tips on safe Mountain Press), a compilation of
travel. travel essays by writers including Jill
Nelson and Audre Lorde, with some
BLACK TRAVELERS practical information and trip-plan-
The Internet offers a number of help- ning advice; The African American
ful travel sites for the black traveler. Travel Guide by Wayne Robinson
Black Travel Online (www.blacktravel (Hunter Publishing; www.hunter
online.com) posts news on upcoming publishing.com), with details on 19
events and includes links to articles North American cities; Steppin’ Out
and travel-booking sites. Soul of by Carla Labat (Avalon), with details
America (www.soulofamerica.com) is on 20 cities; Travel and Enjoy Maga-
a comprehensive website, with travel zine (& 866/266-6211; www.travel
tips, event and family reunion post- andenjoy.com; subscription: $38 per
ings, and sections on historically black year), which focuses on discounts and
beach resorts and active vacations. destination reviews; and the more nar-
Agencies and organizations that rative Pathfinders Magazine (& 877/
provide resources for black travelers 977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.
include: Rodgers Travel (& 800/ com; subscription: $15 per year),
825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), a which includes articles on destinations
Philadelphia-based travel agency with all over the world as well as informa-
an extensive menu of tours in destination on upcoming ski, diving, golf,
tions worldwide, including heritage and and tennis trips.
5 Getting Around the United States

BY PLANE an airline employee and she’ll probably
For long-distance trips, the most effi- whisk you to the front of the line.
cient way to get around the United Bring a current, government-
States is by plane, even in these days of issued photo ID such as a driver’s
increased security and poor airline license or passport. Keep your ID at
service. See appendix D at the end of the ready to show at check-in, the
this book for a list of airlines, with security checkpoint, and sometimes
their toll-free numbers and websites. even the gate. (Children under 18 do
not need government-issued photo
GETTING THROUGH IDs for domestic flights.)
THE AIRPORT In 2003, the TSA phased out
With the federalization of airport secu- gate check-in at all U.S. airports. And
rity, security procedures at U.S. airports e-tickets have made paper tickets
are more stable and consistent than nearly obsolete. Passengers with e-tick-
ever. Generally, you’ll be fine if you ets can beat the ticket-counter lines by
arrive at the airport 1 hour before a using airport electronic kiosks or
domestic flight; if you show up late, tell even online check-in from your home
G E T T I N G A R O U N D T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S 13
computer. Online check-in involves hoarders can stuff all sorts of things
logging on to your airline’s website, into a laptop bag; as long as it has a
accessing your reservation, and printing laptop in it, it’s still considered a per-
out your boarding pass—and the airline sonal item. The Transportation Secu-
may even offer you bonus miles to do rity Administration (TSA) has issued a
so! If you’re using a kiosk at the airport, list of restricted items; check its website
bring the credit card you used to book (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for
the ticket or your frequent-flier card. details.
Print out your boarding pass from the Airport screeners may decide that
kiosk and simply proceed to the security your checked luggage needs to be
checkpoint with your pass and a photo searched by hand. You can now pur-
ID. If you’re checking bags or looking chase luggage locks that allow screen-
to snag an exit-row seat, you will be able ers to open and re-lock a checked bag
to do so using most airline kiosks. Even if hand-searching is necessary. Look
the smaller airlines are employing the for Travel Sentry certified locks at lug-
kiosk system, but always call your air- gage or travel shops and Brookstone
line to make sure these alternatives are stores (you can buy them online at
available. Curbside check-in is also a www.brookstone.com). These locks,
good way to avoid lines, although a few approved by the TSA, can be opened
airlines still ban curbside check-in; call by luggage inspectors with a special
before you go. code or key. For more information on
Security checkpoint lines are getting the locks, visit www.travelsentry.org.
shorter than they were during 2001 and If you use something other than TSA-
2002, but some doozies remain. If you approved locks, your lock will be cut
have trouble standing for long periods off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs
of time, tell an airline employee; the air- to hand-search your luggage.
line will provide a wheelchair. Speed up
F LY I N G F O R L E S S : T I P S
security by not wearing metal objects
FOR GETTING THE BEST
such as big belt buckles. If you’ve got
A I R FA R E
metallic body parts, a note from your
doctor can prevent a long chat with the Passengers sharing the same airplane
security screeners. Keep in mind that cabin rarely pay the same fare. Travel-
only ticketed passengers are allowed ers who need to purchase tickets at the
past security, except for folks escorting last minute, change their itinerary at a
disabled passengers or children. moment’s notice, or fly one-way often
Federalization has stabilized what get stuck paying the premium rate.
you can carry on and what you can’t. Here are some ways to keep your air-
The general rule is that sharp things are fare costs down.
out, nail clippers are okay, and food • Passengers who can book their
and beverages must be passed through ticket long in advance, who can
the X-ray machine—but that security stay over Saturday night, or who
screeners can’t make you drink from fly midweek or at less-trafficked
your coffee cup. Bring food in your hours may pay a fraction of the
carry-on rather than checking it, as full fare. If your schedule is flexi-
explosive-detection machines used on ble, say so, and ask if you can
checked luggage have been known to secure a cheaper fare by changing
mistake food (especially chocolate, for your flight plans.
some reason) for bombs. Travelers in • You can also save on airfares by
the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, keeping an eye out in local news-
plus a “personal item” such as a purse, papers for promotional specials
briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on or fare wars, when airlines lower
Travel in the Age of Bankruptcy

Airlines go bankrupt, so protect yourself by buying your tickets with a
credit card, as the Fair Credit Billing Act guarantees that you can get your
money back from the credit card company if a travel supplier goes under
(and if you request the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy). Travel
insurance can also help, but make sure it covers “carrier default” for your
specific travel provider. And be aware that if a U.S. airline goes bust mid-
trip, a 2001 federal law requires other carriers to take you to your desti-
nation (albeit on a space-available basis) for a fee of no more than $25,
provided you rebook within 60 days of the cancellation.
prices on their most popular extensive network of federal, state, and

routes. You rarely see fare wars local highways and roads. Note: To
offered for peak travel times, but if help you plan your driving routes,
you can travel in the off-months, check out “The USA–Major Interstate
you may snag a bargain. Routes” map at the beginning of this
• Search the Internet for cheap chapter, and the “USA Driving Dis-
fares (see “Planning Your Trip tances” chart on the inside back cover.
Online,” below). If you plan on driving your own
• Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue car over a long distance, then automo-
enough miles, and you’ll be bile-association membership is recom-
rewarded with free flights and elite mended. AAA, the American Auto-
status. It’s free, and you’ll get the mobile Association (& 800/222-
best choice of seats, faster response 4357; www.aaa.org), is the country’s
to phone inquiries, and prompter largest auto club and supplies its mem-
service if your luggage is stolen, if bers with maps, insurance, and, most
your flight is canceled or delayed, importantly, emergency road service.
or if you want to change your The cost of joining runs from $55 for
seat. You don’t need to fly to build singles to $85 for two members.
frequent-flier miles—frequent- If your destination is too far from
flier credit cards can provide home to drive, but will require a car
thousands of miles for doing your once you arrive, see appendix D at the
everyday shopping. end of this book for a list of car-rental
• For many more tips about air agencies, with their toll-free numbers
travel, including a rundown of the and websites. These national compa-
major frequent-flier credit cards, nies have offices at most airports and
pick up a copy of Frommer’s Fly in many cities. You must have a valid
Safe, Fly Smart (Wiley Publish- credit card to rent a vehicle. Most also
ing, Inc.). require a minimum age, ranging from
19 to 25 (some companies that will
BY CAR rent to the under-25 crowd will never-
The most cost-effective, convenient, theless assess under-age driving fees of
and comfortable way to travel around up to $25 per day extra), and some
the United States is by car. Many also set maximum ages. Others deny
highlights of the country just can’t be cars to anyone with a bad driving
seen any other way. record. Ask about rental requirements
The interstate highway system con- and restrictions when you book to
nects cities and towns all over the coun- avoid problems later.
try; in addition to these high-speed, Car-rental rates vary even more than
limited-access roadways, there’s an airfares. The price you pay depends on
G E T T I N G A R O U N D T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S 15
the size of the car, where and when you accident, and whether the type of vehi-
pick it up and drop it off, the length of cle you are renting is included under
the rental period, where and how far your contract.
you drive it, whether you purchase The basic insurance coverage offered
insurance, and a host of other factors. A by most car-rental companies, known
few key questions could save you hun- as the Loss/Damage Waiver (LDW)
dreds of dollars; you should compari- or Collision Damage Waiver (CDW),
son-shop and be persistent because can cost as much as $20 per day. It usu-
reservations agents don’t often volun- ally covers the full value of the vehicle
teer money-saving strategies. with no deductible if an outside party
• Is a weekly rate cheaper than the causes an accident or other damage
daily rate? If you need to keep the to the rental car. In many states, you
car for 4 days, it may be cheaper will probably be covered in case of theft
to keep it for 5, even if you don’t as well (ask before making any assump-
need it that long. tions). Liability coverage varies accord-
• Does the agency assess a drop-off ing to the company policy and state law,
charge if you do not return the car but the minimum is usually at least
to the same location where you $15,000. If you are at fault in an acci-
picked it up? Is it cheaper to pick dent, however, you will be covered for
up the car at the airport instead of the full replacement value of the car but
a downtown location? not for liability. Some states allow you
• How much tax will be added to the to buy additional liability coverage for
rental bill? Local tax? State use tax? such cases. Most rental companies
Some state’s rental-car taxes can top require a police report to process any
25% of the base rate, so be sure claims you file, but your private insurer
you know exactly how much you’ll is not notified of the accident.
be paying in total before making a Most major credit cards offer some
decision. Recently, many online degree of coverage as well—if they
booking sites have begun posting were used to pay for the rental. Terms
the total rental price of a car vary widely, however, so be sure to call
instead of just the base rates. your credit card company directly
• What is the cost of adding an before you rent.
additional driver’s name to the If you’re uninsured, your credit card
contract? provides primary coverage as long as
you decline the rental agency’s insur-
Before you drive off in a rental car, ance. That means the credit card will
be sure you’re insured. Hasty assump- cover damage or theft of a rental car for
tions about your personal auto insur- the full cost of the vehicle. (In a few
ance or a rental agency’s additional states, however, theft is not covered;
coverage could end up costing you ask specifically about state law where
tens of thousands of dollars—even if you will be renting and driving.) If you
you’re involved in an accident that was already have insurance, your credit
clearly the fault of another driver. card will provide secondary coverage—
If you already hold a private auto which basically covers your deductible.
insurance policy, you are most likely Credit cards will not cover liability,
covered for loss of or damage to a rental the cost of injury to an outside party,
car, and liability in case of injury to any and/or damage to an outside party’s
other party involved in an accident. Be vehicle. If you do not hold an insurance
sure to ask whether your policy extends policy, you may seriously want to
to all persons who will be driving the consider purchasing additional liability
rental car, how much liability is covered insurance from your rental company,
in case an outside party is injured in an
even if you decline collision coverage. Reservations are generally required

Be sure to check the terms, however: and should be made for each part of
Some rental agencies cover liability only your trip as early as possible. The
if the renter is not at fault; even then, passes cost $700 in peak season for
the rental company’s obligation varies an adult; $500 for kids ages 2 to 18;
from state to state. off-peak prices (in winter and early
spring) carve about $200 off the peak
BY TRAIN prices. Regional passes and passes for
Long-distance trains in the United travel solely in either California or
States are operated by Amtrak (& 800/ Florida are also available.
USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com), the Amtrak also offers rail/fly packages
national rail passenger corporation. Be that allow travelers to fly to their des-
aware, however, that with a few notable tination in one direction and to take
exceptions (for instance, the Northeast the train in another.
Corridor line between Boston and
Washington, D.C.), intercity service is BY BUS
not particularly fabulous. Delays are Although bus travel is often the most
common, routes are limited and often economical form of public transit for
infrequently served, and fares are sel- short hops between U.S. cities, it can
dom much lower than discount airfares. also be slow and uncomfortable—cer-
That said, if time isn’t an issue, train tainly not an option for everyone (par-
travel can be a very scenic method of ticularly when Amtrak, which is far
traveling the country. If you choose more luxurious, offers similar rates).
to travel by train, do it for the experi- Greyhound/Trailways (& 800/231-
ence, not the convenience. 2222; www.greyhound.com), the sole
There are discount rail passes sold nationwide bus line, offers several pass
to U.S. residents who want to see the and discount options geared to domes-
country by rail. Rail travelers can buy tic travelers. The Domestic Ameripass
a North America Rail Pass, good for offers from 7 to 60 days of travel on
up to 30 days of unlimited travel in Greyhound lines throughout the con-
economy class on Amtrak (& 800/ tiguous United States. Prices on the pass
USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) in the are adjusted seasonally, but in the sum-
U.S. and Canada, except on the Acela mer of 2004, a 15-day pass cost $287
Express trains and the Auto Train that for adults, $144 for kids under 12; a 60-
run on the East Coast. Meals and day pass cost $535 adults, $268 kids
sleeping accommodations are extra. under 12.
Other Transportation Options

Traveling the U.S. in a recreational vehicle (RV) is an increasingly popular way
of seeing the country. One good RV rental agency with locations all over the
country is Cruise America (& 800/671-8042 for rentals; www.cruiseamerica.
com). It would take dozens of pages to thoroughly discuss the ins and outs
of RV travel, so if you’re thinking of hitting the road this way, check out
Frommer’s Exploring America by RV.
If you’re more of the Easy Rider sort and have dreams of cruising the
country on a motorcycle, know that you’ll need a special motorcycle license
and that almost every state also requires that riders wear a helmet. The best
outfit for renting a bike nationwide is EagleRider (& 888/900-9901; www.
eaglerider.com).
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P O N L I N E 17
6 Planning Your Trip Online

SURFING FOR AIRFARES minutetravel.com often have better
The “big three” online travel agencies, U.S. air-and-hotel package deals than
Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and the major-label sites. A website listing
Orbitz.com, sell most of the air tickets numerous bargain sites and airlines
bought on the Internet. Each has dif- around the world is www.itravelnet.
ferent business deals with the airlines com.
and may offer different fares on the If you’re willing to give up some
same flights, so it’s wise to shop around. control over your flight details, use
Expedia and Travelocity will also send what is called an “opaque” fare serv-
you e-mail notification when a cheap ice such as Priceline (www.priceline.
fare becomes available to your favorite com) or its smaller competitor Hot-
destination. Of the smaller travel wire (www.hotwire.com). Both offer
agency websites, SideStep (www.side rock-bottom prices in exchange for
step.com) has gotten the best reviews travel on a “mystery airline” at a mys-
from Frommer’s authors. It’s a browser terious time of day, often with a mys-
add-on that purports to “search 140 terious change of planes en route. The
sites at once,” but in reality only beats mystery airlines are all major, well-
competitors’ fares as often as other known carriers—and the possibility
sites do. of being sent from Philadelphia to
Also remember to check airline Chicago via Tampa is remote; the air-
websites, especially those for low-fare lines’ routing computers have gotten a
carriers such as Southwest, JetBlue, Air- lot better than they used to be. But
Tran, or WestJet, whose fares are often your chances of getting a 6am or
misreported or simply missing from 11pm flight are pretty high. Hotwire
travel agency websites. Even with major tells you flight prices before you buy;
airlines, you can often shave a few Priceline usually has better deals than
bucks from a fare by booking directly Hotwire, but you have to play their
through the airline and avoiding a “name our price” game. If you’re new
travel agency’s transaction fee. But at this, the helpful folks at Bidding
you’ll get these discounts only by ForTravel (www.biddingfortravel.
booking online: Most airlines now com) do a good job of demystifying
offer online-only fares that even their Priceline’s prices and strategies. Price-
phone agents know nothing about. For line and Hotwire are great for flights
the websites of airlines that fly to and within North America. Note: In 2004,
from your destination, see appendix D. Priceline added non-opaque service to
Great last-minute deals are available its roster. You now have the option to
through free weekly e-mail services pro- pick exact flights, times, and airlines
vided directly by the airlines. Most from a list of offers—or opt to bid on
of these are announced on Tuesday or opaque fares as before.
Wednesday and must be purchased For much more about airfares and
online. Most are only valid for travel savvy air-travel tips and advice, pick
that weekend, but some (such as South- up a copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly
west’s) can be booked weeks or months Smart (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).
in advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail
alerts at airline websites or check mega-
SURFING FOR HOTELS
Shopping online for hotels is generally
sites that compile comprehensive lists of
done one of two ways: by booking
last-minute specials, such as Smarter
through the hotel’s own website or
Living (http://smarterliving.com). For
through an independent booking
last-minute trips, site59.com and last
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource

For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend
Frommers.com (www.frommers.com), voted Best Travel Site by PC
Magazine. We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that
you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, book-
store, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable.
Among the special features are our popular Destinations section,
where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations,
and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,500 destinations
around the globe; the Frommers.com Newsletter, with the latest deals,
travel trends, and money-saving secrets; our Community area featur-
ing Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share
advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions);
and our Photo Center, where you can post and share vacation tips.
When your research is done, the Online Reservations System (www.
frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online
partners for booking your vacation at affordable prices.
agency (or a fare-service agency like you search multiple hotel sites at once,
Priceline; see below). These Internet even ones you may never have heard
hotel agencies have multiplied in of—and conveniently lists the total
mind-boggling numbers of late, com- price of the room, including the taxes
peting for the business of millions of and service charges. Another booking
consumers surfing for accommoda- site, Travelweb (www.travelweb.com),
tions around the world. This competi- is partly owned by the hotels it repre-
tiveness can be a boon to consumers sents (including the Hilton, Hyatt, and
who have the patience and time to Starwood chains) and is therefore
shop and compare the online sites for plugged directly into the hotels’ reserva-
good deals—but shop they must, for tions systems—unlike independent
prices can vary considerably from site online agencies. It’s always a good idea
to site. And keep in mind that hotels to get a confirmation number and
at the top of a site’s listing may be make a printout of any online booking
there for no other reason than that transaction.
they paid money to get the placement. In the opaque website category,
Of the “big three” sites, Expedia Priceline and Hotwire are even better
offers a long list of special deals and for hotels than for airfares; with both,
“virtual tours” or photos of available you’re allowed to pick the neighbor-
rooms so you can see what you’re paying hood and quality level of your hotel
for (a feature that helps counter the before offering up your money. Price-
claims that the best rooms are often line’s hotel product even covers
held back from bargain-booking web- Europe and Asia, though it’s much
sites). Travelocity posts unvarnished better at getting five-star lodging
customer reviews and ranks its proper- for three-star prices than at finding
ties according to the AAA rating system. anything at the bottom of the
Also reliable are Hotels.com and Quik scale. On the down side, many hotels
book.com. An excellent free program, stick Priceline guests in their least
Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net), can help desirable rooms. Be sure to go to the
T H E 2 1 S T- C E N T U R Y T R A V E L E R 19
BiddingForTravel website (see above) company websites (SideStep is great

before bidding on a hotel room on for ferreting these deals out), although
Priceline; it features a fairly up-to-date all the major online travel agencies also
list of hotels that Priceline uses in offer car-rental reservations (Traveloc-
major cities. For both Priceline and ity, with its Total Price). Priceline and
Hotwire, you pay upfront, and the fee Hotwire work well for car rentals, too;
is nonrefundable. Note: Some hotels the only “mystery” is which major
do not provide loyalty program credits rental company you get. The car-rental
or points or other frequent-stay specialty site, Breeze Net (www.bnm.
amenities when you book a room com), can help you compare prices and
through opaque online services. find car-rental bargains from compa-
nies nationwide.
SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS
For booking rental cars online, the best
deals are usually found at car-rental
7 The 21st-Century Traveler

INTERNET ACCESS AWAY access for a per-minute fee that’s usu-
FROM HOME ally higher than cybercafe prices. The
Travelers have any number of ways to kiosks’ clunkiness and high prices
check their e-mail and access the mean they should be avoided when-
Internet on the road. Of course, using ever possible.
your own laptop, a PDA (personal To retrieve your e-mail, ask your
digital assistant), or electronic organ- Internet Service Provider (ISP) if it
izer with a modem gives you the most has a Web-based interface tied to your
flexibility. But even if you don’t have a existing e-mail account. If your ISP
computer, you can still access your doesn’t have such an interface, you can
e-mail and your office computer from use the free mail2web service (www.
cybercafes. mail2web.com) to view and reply to
your home e-mail. For more flexibility,
W I T H O U T YO U R O W N you may want to open a free, Web-
COMPUTER based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail
It’s hard nowadays to find a city that (http://mail.yahoo.com) or Hotmail
doesn’t have a few cybercafes. Although (www.hotmail.com). Your home ISP
there’s no definitive directory for cyber- may be able to forward your e-mail to
cafes—these are independent busi- the Web-based account automatically.
nesses, after all—two places to start If you need to access files on your
looking are at www.cybercaptive.com office computer, look into a service
and www.cybercafe.com. called GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.
Aside from formal cybercafes, most com). The service provides a Web-
public libraries in the United States based interface for you to access and
offer Internet access free or for a small manipulate a distant PC from any-
charge. Avoid hotel business centers where—even a cybercafe—provided
unless you’re willing to pay exorbitant your “target” PC is on and has an
rates. always-on connection to the Internet
Most major airports now have (such as with Road Runner cable).
Internet kiosks scattered throughout The service offers top-quality security,
their gates. These kiosks, which you’ll but if you’re worried about hackers,
also see in shopping malls, hotel lob- use your own laptop rather than a
bies, and tourist information offices cybercafe computer to access the
around the world, give you basic Web GoToMyPC system.
W I T H YO U R O W N lobbies. iPass providers (see below)

COMPUTER also give you access to a few hundred
Wi-fi (wireless fidelity) is the buzz- wireless hotel lobby setups. Best of all,
word in computer access, and more you don’t need to be staying at the
and more hotels, cafes, and retailers Four Seasons to use the hotel’s net-
are signing on as wireless “hot spots” work; just set yourself up on a nice
from where you can get high-speed couch in the lobby. The companies’
connection without cable wires, net- pricing policies can be Byzantine, with
working hardware, or a phone line a variety of monthly, per-connection,
(see below). You can get wi-fi connec- and per-minute plans, but in general
tion one of several ways. Many laptops you pay around $30 a month for lim-
sold in the last year have built-in wi-fi ited access—and as more and more
capability (an 802.11b wireless Ether- companies jump on the wireless band-
net connection). Mac owners have wagon, prices are likely to get even
their own networking technology, more competitive.
Apple AirPort. For those with older If wi-fi is not available at your des-
computers, an 802.11b/Wi-fi card tination, most business-class hotels in
(around $50) can be plugged into the U.S. offer dataports for laptop
your laptop. You sign up for wireless modems, and a few thousand hotels in
access service much as you do cell- the U.S. now offer free high-speed
phone service, through a plan offered Internet access using an Ethernet net-
by one of several commercial compa- work cable. You can bring your own
nies that have made wireless service cables, but most hotels rent them
available in airports, hotel lobbies, and for around $10. Call your hotel in
coffee shops, primarily in the U.S. advance to see what your options are.
T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile. In addition, major Internet Service
com/hotspot) serves up wireless con- Providers (ISP) have local access
nections at more than 1,000 Starbucks numbers around the world, allowing
coffee shops nationwide. Boingo you to go online by simply placing a
(www.boingo.com) and Wayport local call. Check your ISP’s website or
(www.wayport.com) have set up net- call its toll-free number and ask how
works in airports and high-class hotel
Digital Photography on the Road

Many travelers are going digital these days when it comes to taking vaca-
tion photographs. Not only are digital cameras left relatively unscathed by
airport X-rays, but with digital equipment you don’t need to lug armloads
of film with you as you travel. In fact, nowadays you don’t even need to
carry your laptop to download the day’s images to make room for more.
With a media storage card, sold by all major camera dealers, you can store
hundreds of images in your camera. These “memory” cards come in dif-
ferent configurations—from memory sticks to flash cards to secure digital
cards—and different storage capacities (the more megabytes of memory,
the more images a card can hold) and range in price from $30 to over
$200. (Note: Each camera model works with a specific type of card, so
you’ll need to determine which storage card is compatible with your cam-
era.) When you get home, you can print the images out on your own color
printer or take the storage card to a camera store, drugstore, or chain
retailer. Or have the images developed online with a service like Snapfish
(www.snapfish.com) for something like 25¢ a shot.
T H E 2 1 S T- C E N T U R Y T R A V E L E R 21
Online Traveler’s Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips
easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and
use.
• Airplane Seating and Food. Find out which seats to reserve and
which to avoid (and more) on all major domestic airlines at www.
seatguru.com. And check out the type of meal (with photos) you’ll
likely be served on airlines around the world at www.airlinemeals.
com.
• Intellicast (www.intellicast.com) and Weather.com (www.weather.
com). Gives weather forecasts for all 50 states.
• Mapquest (www.mapquest.com). This best of the mapping sites lets
you choose a specific address or destination, and in seconds, it will
return a map and detailed directions.
• Subway Navigator (www.subwaynavigator.com). Download subway
maps and get savvy advice on using subway systems in dozens of
major cities in the United States.
• Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com). See what time (and day) it
is anywhere in the world.
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), for locations of PLUS ATMs
worldwide, or MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com), for
locations of Cirrus ATMs worldwide.
you can use your current account away good bet that your phone will work
from home, and how much it will cost. in major cities. But take a look at your
If you’re traveling outside the reach wireless company’s coverage map on
of your ISP, the iPass network has dial- its website before heading out—
up numbers in the U.S. You’ll have to T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are par-
sign up with an iPass provider, who will ticularly weak in rural areas. If you
then tell you how to set up your com- need to stay in touch at a destination
puter for your destination(s). For a list where you know your phone won’t
of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com work, rent a phone that does from
and click on “Individual Purchase.” InTouch Global (& 800/872-7626;
One solid provider is i2roam (www.i2 www.intouchglobal.com) or a car-
roam.com; & 866/811-6209 or 920/ rental location, but beware that you’ll
235-0475). pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.
Wherever you go, bring a connec- If you’re venturing deep into national
tion kit of the right power and phone parks, you may want to consider rent-
adapters, a spare phone cord, and a ing a satellite phone (“satphone”),
spare Ethernet network cable—or find which is different from a cellphone in
out whether your hotel supplies them that it connects to satellites rather than
to guests. ground-based towers. A satphone is
more costly than a cellphone but works
USING A CELLPHONE where there’s no cellular signal and no
Just because your cellphone works at towers. Unfortunately, you’ll pay at least
home doesn’t mean it’ll work elsewhere $2 per minute to use the phone, and
in the country (thanks to our nation’s it only works where you can see the
fragmented cellphone system). It’s a
horizon (in other words, usually not 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com).

indoors). In North America, you InTouch USA (see above) offers a wider
can rent Iridium satellite phones range of satphones but at higher rates.
from Roadpost (& 888/290-1606 or
8 Special Interest Vacation Planner

Here’s a sampling of companies that venerable Sierra Club (& 415/977-
offer escorted adventures and tours, 5500; www.sierraclub.com) offers a
and some suggestions on where to go number of trips each year.
to enjoy your favorite activities. For These and other operators plan
information on the individual states their adventures at least a year ahead
mentioned below, see the appropriate of time, so ask them or your travel
destination chapter in the book. agent for their schedules and catalogs
as far in advance as possible.
ADVENTURE-TRAVEL
COMPANIES WHERE SHOULD I GO
Scores of “soft” and “hard” adventure- FOR . . . ?
travel companies have sprung up in BEACHES Miami (chapter 5) and
recent years. Most travel agents have Southern California (chapter 12) have
catalogs that list upcoming trips. More the best beaches in the continental
than 500 different tour operators are United States, though they all pale in
represented in the Specialty Travel comparison to the spectacular sands on
Index Online at www.specialtytravel. all the islands of Hawaii (chapter 14).
com. Another good source of up-to- The entire Atlantic is lined with
date information is the monthly Out- sand where you can sun and swim in
side magazine, available on newsstands the summer, and you’ll find no short-
throughout the country, or online at age of resorts and beach motels. If you
http://outsidemag.com. try hard enough, you can even find a
Mountain Travel—Sobek (& 888/ little undeveloped solitude at the Cape
687-6235 or 510/527-8100; www.mt Cod National Seashore near Province-
sobek.com) is perhaps the granddaddy town, Massachusetts (p. 60) and at
of adventure-travel companies, guid- Cape Hatteras National Seashore on
ing its own trips and acting as an agent North Carolina’s Outer Banks (p. 288).
for other outfitters. It began with river The Maine coast (chapter 2) is gor-
rafting, which is still its strong suit. geous, but too cold for actual swim-
Backroads (& 800/462-2848 or 510/ ming. The same goes for the lovely,
527-1555; www.backroads.com) origi- dramatic scenery in Northern Cali-
nally sold bicycle tours, but now has fornia (chapter 12) and along the
walking, hiking, cross-country skiing, Oregon coast (chapter 13).
trail running, and other trips. It’s espe- BIKING Biking is a great way to see
cially noteworthy for having options the country up close and personal.
catering to adults traveling solo. Except for the interstate highways,
Bicycle Adventures (& 800/443- you can bike on most roads in the
6060 or 360/786-0989; www.bicycle United States. Among the best are the
adventures.com) offers biking, hiking, Maine coast, Cape Cod, and the hills
and cross-country skiing, as well as of New England—especially Vermont
other multisport options in the West (chapter 2); Virginia’s rolling Shenan-
Coast states, the Rocky Mountain doah Valley (chapter 4); the com-
states, and Hawaii. Tours are tailored bined Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge
to ability levels; some are designed for Parkway in Virginia and North Car-
families, others for solo travelers. The olina (chapter 4); the Outer Banks of
S P E C I A L I N T E R E S T VAC AT I O N P L A N N E R 23
North Carolina (chapter 4); the dra- Once endangered, the bald eagle is
matic California coast (chapter 12); now widespread across the country.
the Oregon coast (chapter 13); the Dozens make their winter home at
San Juan Islands near Seattle Lake Cachuma near Santa Barbara in
(p. 951); and the road circling the Big California. In January they flock to
Island of Hawaii (p. 1017). Excep- the Skagit River north of Seattle to
tional mountain biking is also available feast on salmon, and you can even
in most of West Virginia’s state parks spot them while riding a Washington
(p. 1035). Biking is an excellent way to State ferry through the San Juan
see some of the national parks, espe- Islands (p. 951). In September, look
cially Shenandoah (p. 238), Yosemite for them along Alaska’s southeastern
(p. 875), Yellowstone (p. 585), Grand coast (chapter 14). Alaska also has
Tetons (p. 577), and Glacier (p. 567). many other birds not found in the
An ongoing nationwide program is lower 48 states.
converting some 50,000 miles of aban- In the Arizona (chapter 11) desert,
doned railroad beds into biking-and- Ramsey Canyon Preserve is interna-
walking paths. For a list, contact the tionally known as home to 14 species
Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, 1100 of hummingbird, more than any-
17th St. NW, 10th Floor, Washington, where else in the United States. San
DC 20005 (& 202/331-9696; www. Pedro Riparian National Conserva-
railtrails.org). tion Area is another good spot in Ari-
Several companies and organiza- zona, with more than 300 species.
tions offer escorted bike excursions, For tropical species, head to Florida
including Backroads and Bicycle (chapter 5), especially to Everglades
Adventures (see “Adventure-Travel National Park (p. 387).
Companies,” above). American Youth Hawaii’s (chapter 14) tropical birds
Hostels (& 202/783-6161; www. are found nowhere else on earth,
hiayh.org) has trips for its members. including the rare o’o, whose yellow
CrossRoads Cycling Adventures feathers Hawaiians once plucked to
(& 800/971-2453; www.crossroads make royal capes. Large colonies of
cycling.com) offers nationwide excur- seabirds nest at Kilauea National
sions, including California to Massa- Wildlife Preserve and along the Na
chusetts and Maine to Florida. Pali Coast on Kauai; and Molokai’s
BIRDING The entire East Coast is Kamakou Preserve is home to the
on the Atlantic Flyway for migrating Molokai thrust and Molokai creeper,
water birds and waterfowl. You can see found nowhere else.
them all the way from the Maine coast For information about escorted
(chapter 2), particularly Monhegan bird-watching trips, contact Field
and Machias islands, to the Wellfleet Guides (& 800/728-4953 or 512/
Wildlife Sanctuary on Cape Cod, 263-4795; www.fieldguides.com) or
and on south to Maryland’s eastern Victor Emanual Nature Tours
shore, where Chincoteague National (& 800/328-8368 or 512/328-5221;
Wildlife Refuge on the Maryland– www.ventbird.com). The National
Virginia line is the best bet (& 757/ Audubon Society (& 212/979-
336-6122). 3000; www.audubon.org) runs superb
Shorebirds also migrate along the bird-watching programs for both
Pacific side of the country, with good aspiring and experienced naturalists.
viewing anywhere along the Washing- CANOEING & KAYAKING
ton and Oregon coasts but especially There’s a wide variety of rivers,
in Malheur National Wildlife Refuge streams, lakes, and sounds for canoe-
in southeastern Oregon. ing and kayaking enthusiasts. In fact,
most cities with rivers running Ulysses S. Grant took Vicksburg,

through them now have a contingent Mississippi (p. 429), after a long
of outfitters. siege, and Gen. William Tecumseh
Out in the hinterlands, some of the Sherman burned Atlanta (p. 244),
best paddling takes place along but the most famous fighting took
Maine’s coast (chapter 2) or through place within 100 miles of Washing-
its 92-mile Allagash Wilderness ton, D.C. (p. 196). This area has
Waterway, a series of remote rivers, more national battlefield parks than
lakes, and ponds. any other part of the country.
In summer, it’s hot and humid in It won’t be in chronological order,
Florida’s Everglades National Park but you can tour them by starting at
(p. 387), but winter offers great the battles of Fredericksburg, Chan-
opportunities along a maze of well- cellorsville, and The Wilderness in
marked trails. You can rent canoes at and near Fredericksburg, Virginia
the main park center at Flamingo. (chapter 4). Proceed north to the two
The peaceful lakes of Minnesota’s Battles of Manassas (or Bull Run)
Boundary Waters Canoe Area north southwest of Washington, then north
of Minneapolis are another good across the Potomac River to the Battle
choice. of Antietam at Sharpsburg, Mary-
Puget Sound’s San Juan Islands land. From there, go northwest
(p. 951) near Seattle are enchanting through Harpers Ferry, West Virginia,
when seen by canoe or kayak. San to the Battle of Gettysburg (p. 179),
Juan Kayak Expeditions (& 360/ the turning point of the war, in south-
378-4436; www.sanjuankayak.com) central Pennsylvania. Gettysburg is
and Shearwater Adventures (& 360/ perhaps the most moving and well
376-4699; www.shearwaterkayaks. preserved of the battlegrounds. You’ll
com) both have multiday trips to the also pass several battlefields driving
islands, and biologists and naturalists through the Shenandoah Valley
lead educational expeditions sponsored (chapter 4).
by the nonprofit Sea Quest Expedi- FALL FOLIAGE Fall in New Eng-
tions (& 360/378-5767; www.sea- land (chapter 2) is one of the great
quest-kayak.com). natural spectacles on earth, with
For a truly unique kayaking experi- rolling hills blanketed in brilliant reds
ence, you can paddle among the hump- and stunning oranges. The colors start
back whales taking their winter break to peak in mid-September in the
in Hawaii. Contact South Pacific Green and White mountains of Ver-
Kayaks (& 800/776-2326 or 808/ mont and New Hampshire, and then
661-8400; www.southpacifickayaks. bleed down into the Berkshires of
com). Massachusetts. The colors move pro-
For general information, contact gressively south down the East Coast,
the American Canoe Association, through New York’s Hudson River
7432 Alban Station Blvd., Suite B226, Valley (p. 137), into October, when
Springfield, VA 22150 (& 703/451- bumper-to-bumper traffic jams Vir-
0141; www.acanet.org), the nation’s ginia’s Skyline Drive through
largest organization, for lists of trips Shenandoah National Park (p. 238).
and local clubs. The precise dates for prime viewing
CIVIL WAR BATTLEFIELDS vary from year to year, depending on
The Civil War started in 1861 at Fort temperatures and rainfall, but the
Sumter in Charleston, South Carolina local newspapers and TV stations
(p. 275). Battles raged all over the closely track the coloration.
South during the next 4 years. Gen.
Fall is also quite spectacular in the FLOWERS & GARDENS Flower

Rockies, especially in Colorado lovers have many opportunities to
(chapter 10); in West Virginia’s moun- stop and smell the roses, especially in
tains (p. 1035); and in the Wisconsin Portland, Oregon (p. 964), which
Dells (p. 521). calls itself the City of Roses. Many
Tauck World Discovery (& 800/ other cities have gardens of note,
788-7885; www.tauck.com), Maupin- including Atlanta, Boston (p. 31),
tour (& 800/255-4266 or 913/843- Denver (p. 665), New Orleans
1211; www.maupintour.com), and sev- (p. 437), New York (p. 107), Seattle
eral other escorted tour operators have (p. 932), and Tucson (p. 765). Long-
foliage tours; see your travel agent. wood Gardens in the Brandywine
FISHING The United States can Valley (p. 177) is noted for its green-
boast of record-setting catches and has houses as well as its grounds. The Bilt-
every type of fishing invented—from more Estate in Asheville, North
surf-casting off Cape Cod or Cape Carolina (p. 297), has a walled Eng-
Hatteras to flicking a fly in Maine or lish garden on its 25 acres. Magnolia
Montana. Plantation near Charleston, South
Fly-fishing camps are as prolific as Carolina (p. 275), is famed for its
fish in the Maine woods. Grant’s azaleas, camellias, and 60-acre cypress
Kennebago Camps in Oquossoc has swamp. If you like gardens from the
18 of them, built on Kennebago Lake Elizabethan era, head for Colonial
in 1905. Over in Vermont, Orvis Williamsburg, Virginia (p. 227).
(& 800/548-9548) runs one of the It’s also a spectacular sight to see the
top fly-fishing schools in the country. commercial flower farms of Washing-
See chapter 2 for more on New Eng- ton State’s Skagit Valley. In the
land fishing. spring, tulips and daffodils carpet the
The nation’s other great fly-fishing farmlands surrounding the town of La
area is in the Montana and Wyoming Conner with great swaths of red, yel-
mountains near Yellowstone National low, and white. In March and April,
Park (p. 585), made famous by A River the town hosts an annual Tulip Festi-
Runs Through It. The top river out here val; the countryside erupts with color
is Montana’s Madison, with headquar- in a display that matches the legendary
ters starting in the park, but cutthroat flower fields of the Netherlands. See
trout make the Snake River over in chapter 13 for more on Washington.
Wyoming almost as good—and the You may also be interested in seeing
resort of Jackson Hole offers luxury wildflowers in bloom out West.
relief within casting distance (see chap- Springtime brings glorious color to the
ter 8). Texas Hill Country (p. 644), just
Most ports along the nation’s north of San Antonio. The deserts of
seaboards have deep-sea charter-fishing New Mexico, Arizona, and Southern
fleets and less expensive party boats (all California (chapters 11 and 12) are
you have to do is show up for the also magical in the spring. Two of
latter). The best tropical strikes are in California’s prettiest viewing areas are
the Florida Keys (p. 389) and off the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park,
Kona coast of the Big Island in near San Diego, and the Antelope
Hawaii (p. 1017). Alaska (chapter 14) Valley Poppy Reserve, in the high
is famous for summertime salmon and desert near L.A. There are also beautiful
halibut fishing, with the biggest in the spring blooms in the Washington Cas-
Kenai River and on Kodiak Island, cades, especially in Olympic National
which has the state’s best roadside Park (p. 955) and throughout the
salmon fishing. Rocky Mountains (chapter 10).
A few travel companies have MOUNTAIN BIKING If moun-

escorted tours of gardens, others tain bikes are your thing, you’ll find
include them on their general sight- plenty of dirt roads and backcountry
seeing excursions, and still others pathways to explore. Many national
organize trips for local botanical gar- parks and forests have a good selection
dens or gardening and horticultural of trails—Acadia National Park’s
groups. Check with those in your (p. 101) carriage roads, for example,
hometown for upcoming trips, or are unique. You can also take guided
try Maupintour (& 800/255-4266 tours through 60 miles of connected
or 913/843-1211; www.maupintour. trails in the Sebago Lake area, near
com). the New Hampshire border, with
GOLF & TENNIS You can play Back Country Excursions (& 207/
golf and tennis almost anywhere in the 625-8189; www.bikebackcountry.
country, although the southern tier of com), which operates a mountain-bik-
states, where the outdoor seasons are ing playground called the “Palace” in
longest, offer the best opportunities. In Limerick, Maine.
the Southeast, top golfing destinations Out in Colorado (chapter 10), ski
are the North Carolina Sandhills; areas often open their lifts to bikers in
Hilton Head Island and Myrtle the summer. Winter Park is consid-
Beach, South Carolina (chapter 4); ered the state’s mountain-bike capital
and almost anywhere in Florida (& 800/903-PARK or 970/726-
(chapter 5). You can get information 4118). The state’s single best route,
about most Florida courses, including the 30-mile Tipperary Creek Trail,
current greens fees, and reserve tee ends at Winter Park. Another popular
times through Tee Times USA area is the Bryce, Zion, and Canyon-
(& 888/465-3356 or 904/439-0001; lands regions of southern Utah (chap-
www.teetimesusa.com). This company ter 10). Contact Rim Tours (& 800/
also publishes a vacation guide 626-7335; www.rimtours.com) or
that includes many stay-and-play golf Kaibab Mountain Bike Tours
packages. (& 800/451-1133; www.kaibabtours.
In the Southwest, the twin desert com), based in the town of Moab.
cities of Phoenix and Scottsdale, West Virginia (p. 1035) is a top
Arizona (p. 753), have some of the destination for mountain biking; espe-
country’s most luxurious golf resorts. cially good spots are Canaan Valley
The same can be said of Palm Springs Resort and Backwater Falls State
and the Monterey coast in California Park.
(chapter 12). The companies mentioned under
And Hawaii (chapter 14) has some “Biking,” above, also offer mountain-
of the most famous and most unique biking expeditions throughout the
courses in the world. country and abroad.
Most of the nation’s top golf resorts NATURE & ECOLOGY TOURS
also have excellent tennis facilities. For Not just for bird-watchers, the
the top 50 tennis resorts, see Tennis National Audubon Society (& 212/
magazine’s rankings each November. 979-3000; www.audubon.org) has its
Good choices include the Ritz-Carl- Ecology Camp on Hog Island off the
ton Key Biscayne in Key Biscayne, Maine coast and another in the Grand
Florida (p. 381), Tampa’s Saddlebrook Tetons of Wyoming, and it sponsors
Resort–Tampa (p. 408), and Sea ecology excursions to such places as
Pines Plantation on Hilton Head, California’s Death Valley. The Sierra
South Carolina (p. 269). Club maintains base camps in the
Rockies and sponsors a wide variety of in Maine’s Acadia National Park is

nature- and conservation-oriented another beauty.
trips (& 415/977-5630; www.sierra In the Southeast (chapter 4), you
club.com). On a tour sponsored by a can’t beat Virginia’s Skyline Drive and
conservation association, you’ll learn the Blue Ridge Parkway, which con-
more about our national parks than tinues south to North Carolina’s Great
you could just by driving through Smoky Mountains near Asheville.
them. To find out what’s available, You’ll traverse a wild and undevel-
contact the individual park you plan oped portion of Monongahela National
on visiting. Forest on the Highland Scenic High-
RIVER RAFTING The most way in West Virginia (appendix A), a
famous place to run the rapids is the drive that’s especially beautiful during
Grand Canyon (p. 784), with steep fall foliage season.
walls that tower above you as you race The Historic Coastal Highway
down the Colorado River. It’s also the stretches along the eastern coast of
most popular spot, with bumper-to- Florida, offering up prime ocean views
bumper rafts in summer. and lots of wildlife.
You may have less unwanted com- In the Gulf South (chapter 6), the
pany on the Colorado upstream in Natchez Trace Parkway winds
Utah—which also has good rafting on through forested beauty in the states of
the Green River. Call the Utah Travel Mississippi, Tennessee, and Alabama
Council (& 800/200-1160 or 801/ on the way from Natchez to Nashville.
538-1030) and ask for a copy of Raft Another good option in this region is
Utah. The Snake River south of Yel- the stunning beauty (including trees,
lowstone National Park near Jackson rock formations, and waterfalls) along
Hole, Wyoming, is also a best bet. The the Red River Gorge Highway in
Snake River flows into Idaho, where Kentucky. For picture-perfect views of
its wild Hells Canyon offers exciting marshlands and their accompanying
rides—as do the Salmon and Middle wildlife, look no further than the Cre-
Fork rivers. For more information, see ole Nature Trail in Louisiana.
chapter 8. In the Great Plains (chapter 8), a
The New River cuts a dramatic, driving tour of Glacier Country in
2,000-foot-deep gorge through the Montana puts you on Going-to-the-
Appalachian Mountains inside New Sun Road through Glacier National
River Gorge National River Recrea- Park, one of the great summertime
tion Area (p. 1037), near the town of drives in the country. Over the border
Beckley, West Virginia, making it the in Wyoming, the Beartooth Scenic
most scenic rapids route in the east. Byway (U.S. 212) from the northern
part of Yellowstone National Park east
SCENIC DRIVES There are so to Red Lodge climbs over 10,947-foot
many wonderful driving tours that it’s Beartooth Pass, from where you can
impossible to offer anything like a see mile upon mile of Wyoming and
comprehensive list, but here are just a Montana mountains. Custer State Park
few favorites. in the South Dakota Badlands offers
In New England (chapter 2), the not one, but three scenic auto routes,
dramatic Kancamagus Highway though if you have time for only one,
(N.H. 112) cuts through New Hamp- make it Iron Mountain Road.
shire’s White Mountains between Lin- In Colorado, a driving tour of the
coln and Conway. Nearby is the Western Slope follows the Million
privately owned Mount Washington Dollar Highway (U.S. 550) across
Auto Road, to the top of one of the 11,008-foot Red Mountain Pass, an
tallest peaks in the east. The loop road
unforgettable drive. The San Juan of Transportation’s America’s Byways

Skyway, a 236-mile circuit that website at www.byways.org; while
crosses five mountain passes, takes in you’re online, be sure to request their
the magnificent scenery of the San free America’s Byways map.
Juan Mountains, including some won- SKIING New England may have
derful Old West towns. And visitors started downhill skiing in the United
to Rocky Mountain National Park States, but for the best, forget about
should not pass up a drive on the the East altogether and head for the
exceptionally scenic Trail Ridge deep powder out West.
Road, especially in spring when the Colorado (chapter 10) is endowed
wildflowers are in bloom and wildlife with more than two dozen ski resorts,
is out in force. including world-renowned Aspen,
In the Southwest (chapter 11), the Vail, Breckenridge, and Wolf Creek;
Kaibab Plateau-North Rim Parkway Utah (chapter 10) is home to Alta,
winds itself through the trees of Beaver Mountain, Snowbasin, Park
Kaibab National Forest before landing City, and Deer Valley; and Taos
at the scenic northern edge of the (p. 816) in New Mexico has well-
Grand Canyon. In the Arizona known slopes. In California’s Sierras,
desert, the drive from Phoenix Lake Tahoe (p. 869) is home to
through Prescott and Sedona includes Alpine Meadows, Heavenly Resort,
huge red rocks and the cool oasis of and the famous Squaw Valley USA.
Oak Creek Canyon. The desert’s most And there’s Jackson Hole (p. 577) in
spectacular scenery is in Monument Wyoming, plus the Big Mountain and
Valley on the Arizona–Utah border in Big Sky resorts nearby in Montana
Navajo and Hopi country and the (chapter 8).
nearby Canyonlands. New England (chapter 2) does have
Out in California and the Pacific good cross-country skiing, especially
Northwest (chapters 12 and 13), driv- at the Trapp Family Lodge Cross-
ing doesn’t get any more dramatic Country Ski Center (& 800/826-
than it is along the California and 7000 or 802/253-8511) in Stowe, Ver-
Oregon coasts. mont, and the entire village of Jackson,
Up in Alaska (chapter 14), one of New Hampshire, which is laced with a
the world’s great drives begins in network of ski trails maintained by the
Anchorage and leads roughly 50 miles Jackson Ski Touring Foundation
south on the Seward Highway to (& 603/383-9355; www.jacksonxc.
Portage Glacier; chipped from the com). Moving south along the East
rocky Chugach Mountains, the Turn- Coast, you’ll find good options in Lake
again Arm provides a platform for Placid, New York (chapter 3) and
viewing an untouched landscape full Snowshoe in West Virginia (appendix
of wildlife. A). Out West, many of the downhill
Out in Hawaii (chapter 14), the resorts mentioned above have cross-
drive from Honolulu to Oahu’s Wind- country trails as well. The best are
ward coast on Highway 61 offers an in Yosemite (p. 875), Yellowstone
unparalleled view down from the (p. 585), and Glacier (p. 567) national
near-vertical Pali cliff. The narrow, parks. The rims of the Grand Canyon
winding Hana Road on Maui will (p. 784) and Bryce Canyon (p. 720)
reward your driving skills with won- national parks also present some
derful seascapes. unusual skiing venues.
For a comprehensive list of the
major scenic byways and roads in the WHALE- & WILDLIFE WATCH-
U.S., check out the U.S. Department ING The best whale- watching on
T I P S O N AC C O M M O DAT I O N S 29
the East Coast leaves from Province- Hawaii (chapter 14), where they frolic
town on Cape Cod (p. 60), where in the warm waters from December to
some boats sight humpbacks and fin- May. They are best seen here from
backs with a 99% success rate from Maui’s west coast.
April to November. For wildlife watching, you can see
On the West Coast, you can see moose in Rocky Mountain National
Pacific gray whales during their spring Park (p. 679) in Colorado, maybe a
and fall migrations from Point Reyes bear in the Great Smoky Mountains
National Seashore north of San Fran- (p. 299), or alligators and other critters
cisco; Depot Bay and other points on in Florida’s Everglades (p. 387). But
the Oregon coast; and the San Juan the best places to spot a variety of
Islands near Seattle, which also have animals are undoubtedly the national
orcas. See chapters 12 and 13 for more parks out west and in Alaska. Without
information on these areas. question, Yellowstone (p. 585) offers
The port of Sitka (p. 991) in south- some of the top opportunities, with an
eastern Alaska, Kenai Fjords National abundance of elk and bison. Some of
Park, and nearby Seward are great them will walk right up to your car.
spots to watch humpbacks feeding in Glacier (p. 567) has this and more—
summer—plus a profusion of seals, mountain elk and the occasional grizzly
otters, and other marine mammals. bear. Alaska’s Denali (p. 997) national
For many humpbacks, the fall park offers visitors a great chance to see
migration takes them south to sunny grizzlies and other types of bears.
9 Tips on Accommodations
The United States has a wide range few of these B&B-only websites in-
of accommodations: from roadside clude Inntravels.com, Bed & Break-
chain motels, to park lodges, to rental fast Inns Online (www.bbonline.
condos, to mammoth themed resorts, com), North American Bed & Break-
to historic inns (where George Wash- fast Directory (www.bbdirectory.
ington really did sleep!). And there are com), and BedandBreakfast.com.
tons of excellent campgrounds located For historic lodging in the United
all over the country. States, look no further than the His-
For a list of the major hotel and toric Hotels of America (& 800/678-
motel chains’ telephone numbers and 8946; www.historichotels.org), oper-
websites, see appendix D. In the indi- ated in conjunction with the National
vidual chapters in this book, we also Trust for Historic Preservation. We’ve
provide information on local reserva- noted several hotels rich in American
tion services, if available. Most state history throughout the book.
tourism offices put out directories or For information on campgrounds
other information on available accom- and RV parks in the United States,
modations—contact them and they’ll pick up the comprehensive Frommer’s
be happy to send you the information. RV & Tent Campgrounds in the U.S.A.
Much of the information is also avail- You can also contact the National
able on the states’ tourism websites. A Association of RV Parks and Camp-
list of all 50 state tourism bureaus is grounds (& 703/241-8801; www.
available in appendix B. gocampingamerica.com); or KOA
If you prefer the intimacy and char- (& 406/248-7414; www.koa.com),
acter of a bed-and-breakfast, there are which operates numerous camp-
several reservation agencies and online grounds and RV parks all over the
websites that deal solely with B&Bs. A country.
LANDING THE BEST ROOM pay less for a back room facing the
Somebody has to get the best room in parking lot, especially if they don’t
the house. It might as well be you. You plan to spend much time in their
can start by joining the hotel’s frequent- room. If, on the other hand, you
guest program, which may make you can’t do without that view of the
eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded ocean, the skyline, the Strip, what-
credit card usually gives it owner “silver” ever, then be prepared to pay extra
or “gold” status in frequent-guest pro- for it.
grams for free. Always ask about a cor- • What’s included in the price? Your
ner room. They’re often larger and room may be moderately priced,
quieter, with more windows and light, but if you’re charged for beach
and they often cost the same as standard chairs, towels, sports equipment,
rooms. When you make your reserva- and other amenities, you could
tion, ask if the hotel is renovating; if end up spending more than you
it is, request a room away from the bargained for.
construction. Ask about nonsmoking • Is there a resort or energy fee?
rooms; rooms with views; and rooms These are recent and particularly
with twin, queen- or king-size beds. If heinous schemes (anywhere from
you’re a light sleeper, request a quiet $5–$20 per day!) dreamed up by
room away from vending machines, hotel executives trying to make an
elevators, restaurants, bars, and discos. extra dime off travelers. They
Ask for a room that has been most ostensibly cover items (local calls, a
recently renovated or redecorated. bottle of water, a newspaper, the
If you aren’t happy with your room electricity in your room) that used
when you arrive, ask for another one. to be free, but that you’re now
Most lodgings will be willing to being charged for. And these extra
accommodate you if they have a room charges are never included in the
available. quoted rate. You’ll find this sort of
In resort areas, particularly in warm gouging mostly at resorts in the
climates, ask the following questions major resort destinations such as
before you book a room: Florida and Hawaii, but we’ve seen
• What’s the view like? Cost-con- even small chain hotels in some of
scious travelers may be willing to these areas assessing this fee.
2
New England
O ne of the greatest challenges of traveling in New England is choosing from
an abundance of superb restaurants, accommodations, and attractions. Do you
want the mountains or the beach? Shining cities or quiet vistas? In this chapter,
we give you an overview of one of the most historic regions of the United States,
and still one of the most vital. We start in Massachusetts with Boston; go out to
Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard; swing through the Mystic seaport in Con-
necticut and then around to Rhode Island’s glamorous Newport and revitalized
Providence; and return to Massachusetts to the Berkshires. We head inland to
the natural glories of southern Vermont and New Hampshire’s White Moun-
tains, then up the rocky, majestic Maine coast.
1 Boston & Cambridge

Boston embodies contrasts and contradictions—it’s blue blood and blue collar,
Yankee and Irish, home to budget-conscious graduate students and free-spend-
ing computer wizards (still!). Rich in colonial history and 21st-century technol-
ogy, it’s a living landmark whose unofficial mascot is the construction worker. A
new highway, a dramatic new bridge, and new buildings of all sizes are altering
the landscape of eastern Massachusetts.
Take a few days (or weeks) to get to know the Boston area, or use it as a gate-
way to the rest of New England. Here’s hoping your experience is memorable
and delightful.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE By Plane Most major domestic carriers and many
international carriers serve Boston’s Logan International Airport (& 800/23-
LOGAN; www.massport.com), across the harbor from downtown. Access to the
city is by subway (the “T”), cab, and boat. The subway is fast and cheap—10 min-
utes to Government Center and $1 for a token (good for one ride). Free shuttle
buses run from each terminal to the Airport Station on the Blue Line of the T
from 5:30am to 1am. The Blue Line stops at State Street and Government Cen-
ter, downtown points where you can exit or transfer (free) to the other lines. A cab
from the airport to downtown or the Back Bay costs about $18 to $24. The ride
into town takes 10 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic and the time of day.
The trip to the downtown waterfront (near cabstands and several hotels) in a
boat takes 7 minutes. The free no. 66 shuttle bus connects all terminals with the
Logan ferry dock. The Airport Water Shuttle (& 617/330-8680) runs to Rowes
Wharf on Atlantic Avenue Monday through Friday from 6am to 8pm, Saturday
and Sunday from 10am to 8pm. The one-way fare is $10 for adults, $5 for sen-
iors, and free for children under 12. Harbor Express (& 617/376-8417; www.
harborexpress.com) runs from the airport to Long Wharf Monday through Friday
from 6:30am to 9pm (to 11pm on Fri), less frequently on weekends. The one-way
fare is $8 for adults, $4 for children 6 to 12, and $1 for children under 6.
32
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34 CHAPTER 2 . NEW ENGLAND
By Train Amtrak (& 800/USA-RAIL or 617/482-3660; www.amtrak.com)

serves all three of Boston’s three rail centers: South Station, on Atlantic Avenue;
Back Bay Station, on Dartmouth Street across from the Copley Place mall; and
North Station, on Causeway Street near the FleetCenter. Each train station is
also a rapid-transit station (& 800/392-6100 outside Massachusetts, or 617/
222-3200; www.mbta.com). A commuter rail serves Ipswich, Rockport, and
Fitchburg from North Station, and points south and west of Boston, including
Plymouth, from South Station.
By Car Boston is 218 miles from New York; driving time is about 41⁄2 hours.
From Washington, it takes about 8 hours to cover the 468 miles; the 992-mile
drive from Chicago takes around 21 hours. Driving to Boston is not difficult,
but if you’re thinking of using the car to get around town, you won’t need one
to explore Boston and Cambridge.
The major highways are I-90, the Massachusetts Turnpike (“Mass. Pike”), an
east-west toll road that leads to the New York State Thruway; I-93/U.S. 1,
which extends north to Canada; and I-93/Route 3, the Southeast Expressway,
which connects with the south, including Cape Cod. I-95 (Mass. Rte. 128) is a
beltway about 11 miles from downtown that connects to I-93 and to highways
in Rhode Island, Connecticut, and New York to the south, and New Hampshire
and Maine to the north. The Mass. Pike extends into the city and connects with
the Central Artery (the John F. Fitzgerald Expwy.).
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Greater Boston Convention &
Visitors Bureau, 2 Copley Place, Suite 105, Boston (& 888/SEE-BOSTON or
617/536-4100; 0171/431-3434 in the U.K.; www.bostonusa.com). It offers a
comprehensive information kit ($6.25) with a planner, guidebook, map, and
coupon book; and a Kids Love Boston guide ($5). Free smaller planners for spe-
cific seasons or events are often available.
The Cambridge Office for Tourism, 18 Brattle St., Cambridge (& 800/
862-5678 or 617/441-2884; www.cambridge-usa.org), distributes information
about Cambridge. The Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism, 10 Park
Plaza, Suite 4510, Boston (& 800/227-6277 or 617/973-8500; www.mass
vacation.com), distributes the Getaway Guide, a free magazine with information
on attractions and lodgings, a map, and a seasonal calendar.
The Boston National Historic Park Visitor Center, 15 State St. (& 617/
242-5642; www.nps.gov/bost), across the street from the Old State House and
the State Street T, is a good place to start exploring. National Park Service
rangers staff the center and lead free tours of the Freedom Trail. The audiovisual
show provides basic information on 16 historic sites on the trail. The center is
wheelchair accessible and has restrooms. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm.
The Freedom Trail begins at the Boston Common Information Center, 146
Tremont St., on the common. The center is open Monday through Saturday
from 8:30am to 5pm, Sunday from 9am to 5pm. The Prudential Information
Center, on the main level of the Prudential Center, is open Monday through
Friday from 8:30am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 6pm. The
Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau (& 888/SEE-BOSTON or
617/536-4100) operates both centers.
GETTING AROUND When you reach your hotel, leave your car in the
garage and walk or use public transportation. Free maps of downtown Boston
and the transit system are available at visitor centers around the city. Where and
other tourism-oriented magazines, available free at most hotels, include maps of
B O S TO N & C A M B R I D G E 35
central Boston and the T. Streetwise Boston ($5.95) and Artwise Boston ($5.95)
are sturdy, laminated maps available at most bookstores.
By Public Transportation The Massachusetts Bay Transportation Author-
ity, or MBTA (& 800/392-6100 outside Massachusetts, or 617/222-3200;
www.mbta.com), is known as the “T,” and its logo is the letter in a circle. It runs
subways, trolleys, buses, and ferries in Boston and many suburbs, as well as the
commuter rail. Its website includes maps, schedules, and other information.
Newer stations on the Red, Blue, and Orange lines are wheelchair accessible;
the Green Line is being converted. All T buses have lifts or kneelers; call & 800/
LIFT-BUS for information. To learn more, call the Office for Transportation
Access (& 617/222-5438 or TTY 617/222-5854).
The Boston Visitor Pass (& 877/927-7277 or 617/222-5218; www.mbta.
com) includes unlimited travel on the subway and local buses, in commuter rail
zones 1A and 1B, and on two ferries. The cost is $7.50 for 1 day (thus tokens
are cheaper for fewer than six trips), $18 for 3 days, and $35 for 7 days. The $17
weekly combo pass covers subways and buses but not ferries, and is good only
Sunday through Saturday. You can buy a pass in advance by phone or online, or
when you arrive at the Airport T station, South Station, Back Bay Station, or
North Station. They’re also for sale at the Government Center and Harvard T
stations; the Boston Common, Prudential Center, and Faneuil Hall Marketplace
information centers; and some hotels.
Red, Blue, and Orange line trains and Green Line trolleys make up the sub-
way system, which runs partly aboveground. The local fare is $1.25—you’ll
need a token—and can be as much as $3 for some surface line extensions. Trans-
fers are free. Route and fare information and timetables are available through the
website and at centrally located stations. Service begins around 5:15am and ends
around 12:30am. A sign on the token booth in every station gives the time of
the last train in either direction.
T buses and “trackless trolleys” (buses with electric antennae) provide serv-
ice around town and to and around the suburbs. The local bus fare is 90¢;
express buses are $2.20 and up. Exact change is required. You can use a token,
but you won’t get change. Important local routes include no. 1 (Mass. Ave. from
Dudley Sq. in Roxbury through the Back Bay and Cambridge to Harvard Sq.),
nos. 92 and 93 (between Haymarket and Charlestown), and no. 77 (Mass. Ave.
from Harvard Sq. north to Porter Sq. and Arlington).
Two useful ferry routes (both included in the T visitor pass) run on the Inner
Harbor. The first connects Long Wharf (near the New England Aquarium), the
Charlestown Navy Yard—it’s a good final leg of the Freedom Trail—and Love-
joy Wharf, off Causeway Street behind North Station. The other runs between
Lovejoy Wharf and the World Trade Center. The fare is $1.50. Call & 617/
227-4321 for information.
Taxis are expensive and not always easy to flag—find a cabstand or call a dis-
patcher. To call ahead, try the Independent Taxi Operators Association
(& 617/426-8700) or Boston Cab (& 617/536-5010 or 617/262-2227).
Boston Cab can dispatch a wheelchair-accessible vehicle; advance notice is rec-
ommended. In Cambridge, call Ambassador Brattle (& 617/492-1100) or
Yellow Cab (& 617/547-3000).
FAST FACTS If you need medical attention, your hotel concierge should be
able to help you. Hospital referral services include Brigham and Women’s
(& 800/294-9999), Massachusetts General (& 800/711-4MGH), and Tufts
36 CHAPTER 2 . NEW ENGLAND
New England Medical Center (& 617/636-9700). An affiliate of Mass. Gen-

eral, MGH Back Bay, 388 Comm. Ave. (& 617/267-7171), offers walk-in
service and honors most insurance plans.
Downtown Boston has no 24-hour drugstore. The CVS at 155–157 Charles
St. (& 617/523-1028), next to the Charles/MGH Red Line T stop, is open
until midnight. The CVS at the Porter Square Shopping Center, off Mass.
Avenue in Cambridge (& 617/876-5519), is open 24 hours.
On the whole, Boston and Cambridge are safe cities for walking. As in any
urban area, stay out of parks (including Boston Common, the Public Garden,
and the Esplanade) at night unless you’re in a crowd. Areas to avoid at night
include Boylston Street between Tremont and Washington, and Tremont Street
from Stuart to Boylston. Try not to walk alone late at night in the Theater Dis-
trict and around North Station. Public transportation is busy and safe, but serv-
ice stops between 12:30 and 1am.
The 5% sales tax does not apply to food, prescription drugs, newspapers, or
clothing that costs less than $175; the tax on meals and takeout food is 5%. The
lodging tax in Boston and Cambridge is 12.45%.
SPECIAL EVENTS & FESTIVALS Every March 17, a 5-mile parade salutes
both St. Patrick’s Day and the day British troops left Boston in 1776 (& 800/
888-5515). Patriot’s Day, the third Monday in April, features re-enactments of
the events of April 18 and 19, 1775, which signified the start of the Revolu-
tionary War, as well as the running of the Boston Marathon; call the Boston
Athletic Association (& 617/236-1652; www.bostonmarathon.org). The
Boston Pops Concert and Fireworks Display, held at Hatch Memorial Shell
on the Esplanade during Boston, Massachusetts, Independence Week, culmi-
nates in the famous Boston Pops’ Fourth of July concert. The program includes
Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture with actual cannon fire that segues into the fire-
works. Call & 617/727-5215.
WHAT TO SEE & DO IN BOSTON
If you’ll be in town for more than a couple of days, consider purchasing a
BosTix (& 617/262-8632; www.bostix.org) that offers discounts on admission
to many area attractions. It’s not worth the money ($9) for single travelers, but
couples and families can take good advantage of it.
A CityPass is a booklet of tickets to the Harvard Museum of Natural History,
Kennedy Library, Museum of Fine Arts, Museum of Science, New England
Aquarium, and Prudential Center Skywalk. The price (at press time, $30 for
adults, $19 for children 3–17) represents a 50% savings for adults who visit all six
attractions, and having a ticket means you can go straight to the entrance without
waiting in line. The passes, good for 9 days from the date of purchase, are on sale
at participating attractions, at the Boston Common and Prudential Center visitor
centers, through the Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau (& 800/
SEE-BOSTON; www.bostonusa.com), and at www.citypass.com.
T H E T O P AT T R A C T I O N S
Faneuil Hall Marketplace Since Boston’s most popular attraction opened in
1976, cities all over the country have imitated the “festival market” concept. The
complex of shops, food counters, restaurants, bars, and public spaces is a mag-
net for tourists and suburbanites. The five-structure complex sits on brick-and-
stone plazas that teem with crowds shopping, eating, performing, viewing
performers, and people-watching. Quincy Market is the central Greek
B O S TO N & C A M B R I D G E 37
Revival–style building; its central corridor is an enormous food court. On either

side, glass canopies cover full-service restaurants as well as pushcarts that hold
everything from crafts created by New England artisans to hokey souvenirs. In
the plaza between the South Canopy and the South Market building is an
information kiosk. Faneuil Hall itself—nicknamed the “Cradle of Liberty”—
sometimes gets overlooked, but it’s worth a visit. National Park Service rangers
give free 20-minute talks every half-hour from 9am to 5pm in the auditorium.
Between North, Congress, and State sts. and I-93. & 617/523-1300. www.faneuilhallmarketplace.com.
Marketplace Mon–Sat 10am–9pm; Sun noon–6pm. Food court opens earlier; some restaurants close later. T:
Green or Blue lines to Government Center, Orange Line to Haymarket, or Blue Line to Aquarium or State.
Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Isabella Stewart Gardner (1840–1924)

designed her exquisite home in the style of a 15th-century Venetian palace and
filled it with European, American, and Asian painting and sculpture. You’ll see
works by Titian, Botticelli, Raphael, Rembrandt, Matisse, and Mrs. Gardner’s
friends James McNeill Whistler and John Singer Sargent. The building holds a
hodgepodge of furniture and architectural details imported from European
churches and palaces. The pièce de résistance is the magnificent courtyard, filled
year-round with fresh flowers from the museum greenhouse.
280 The Fenway. & 617/566-1401. www.gardnermuseum.org. Admission $10 adults (Sat–Sun $11), $7 sen-
iors, $5 college students, free for children under 18 and adults named Isabella (must show ID). Tues–Sun and
some Mon holidays 11am–5pm. T: Green Line E to museum.
John F. Kennedy Library and Museum The Kennedy era springs to life at
this dramatic library, museum, and research complex overlooking Dorchester
Bay. It captures the 35th president’s accomplishments in sound and video
recordings as well as fascinating displays of memorabilia and photos. A visit
begins with a 17-minute film about Kennedy’s early life. The exhibits start with
the 1960 campaign and end with a tribute to Kennedy’s legacy. There’s a film
about the Cuban Missile Crisis, along with displays on Attorney Gen. Robert F.
Kennedy, the civil rights movement, the Peace Corps, the space program, First
Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, and the Kennedy family.
Columbia Point. & 877/616-4599 or 617/929-4500. www.jfklibrary.org. Admission $10 adults, $8 seniors,
college students, and youths 13–17, free for children under 13. Surcharges may apply for special exhibitions.
Daily 9am–5pm (last film at 3:55pm). T: Red Line to JFK/UMass, then free shuttle bus, which runs every 20
min. By car, take Southeast Expwy. (I-93/Rte. 3) south to Exit 15 (Morrissey Blvd./JFK Library), turn left onto
Columbia Rd., and follow signs to free parking lot.
Museum of Fine Arts Best One of the world’s great museums, the MFA
works constantly to become even more accessible and interesting and is espe-
cially noted for its Impressionist paintings (including 43 Monets—the largest
collection outside Paris), Asian and Old Kingdom Egyptian collections, classical
art, Buddhist temple, and medieval sculpture and tapestries. The American and
European paintings and sculpture are a remarkable assemblage of timeless
works. Pick up a floor plan at the information desk, or take a free guided tour
(weekdays except Mon holidays at 10:30am and 1:30pm; Wed at 6:15pm; and
Sat at 10:30am and 1pm). Note that the MFA’s admission fees are among the
highest in the country. A Boston CityPass is a great deal if you plan to visit
enough of the other included attractions.
465 Huntington Ave. & 617/267-9300. www.mfa.org. Admission $15 adults, $13 seniors and students
when entire museum is open ($13 and $11, respectively, when only West Wing is open), $6.50 youths 6–17
on school days before 3pm, free for youths 6–17 all other times. Admission good for 2 visits within 30 days.
Voluntary contribution ($15 suggested) Wed 4–9:45pm. Surcharges may apply for special exhibitions. Free
Boston
ACCOMMODATIONS . DINING
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38
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Margaret Wilson would defend herself finely, and cast up her hands
to keep the strokes off her; and Bessie Wilson would speak crusty,
and be belling again to him stoutly. He would be beating us all up
and down with cords and other sharp scourges, like naked ghaists,
and we would still be crying: “Pity, pity, mercy, mercy, our Lord!” But
he would have neither pity nor mercy. When angry at us, he would
girn at us like a dog, as if he would swallow us up. Sometimes he
would be like a stirk, a bull, a deer, a rae,’ &c.
Isobel stated that when the married witches went out to these
nocturnal conventions, they put a besom into their place in bed,
which prevented their husbands from missing them. When they had
feasted in a house and wished to depart, a corn-straw put between
their legs served them as a horse; and on their crying, ‘Horse and
hattock in the devil’s name!’ they would fly away, ‘even as straws
would fly upon a highway.’ She once feasted in Darnaway Castle,
and left it in this manner. On another occasion, the party went to the
Downy Hills, where the hill opened, and they went into a well-lighted
room, where they were entertained by the queen of Faery. This
personage was ‘brawly clothed in white linens and in white and
brown clothes;’ while her husband, the king of Faery, was ‘a braw
man, weel-favoured, and broad-faced.’ ‘On that occasion,’ says
Isobel, ‘there were elf-bulls routing up and down, and affrighted
me’—a trait which bears so much the character of a dream, as to be
highly useful in deciding that the whole was mere hallucination.
The covin were empowered to take the shapes of hares, cats, and
crows. On assuming the first of these forms, it was necessary to say:
‘I sall go intill a hare,

With sorrow, sich, and mickle care;
And I sall go in the devil’s name,
Aye while I come home again.’
‘I was one morning,’ says Isobel, ‘about the break of day, going to
Auldearn in the shape of ane hare, and Patrick Papley’s servants,
going to their labour, his hounds being with them, ran after me. I
ran very long, but was forced, being weary, at last to take my own
house. The door being left open, I ran in behind a chest, and the
hounds followed in; but they went to the other side of the chest, and
I was forced to run forth again, and wan into ane other house, and
there took leisure to say:
“Hare, hare, God send thee care!

I am in a hare’s likeness now,
But I sall be a woman even now!
Hare, hare, God send thee care!”
And so I returned to my own shape again. The

dogs,’ she added, ‘will sometimes get bits of us, 1662.
but will not get us killed. When we turn to our own
shape, we will have the bits, and rives, and scarts in our bodies.’
Sometimes they would engage in cures, using of course the power
derived from their infernal master. For a sore or a broken limb there
was a charm in verse, which they said thrice over, stroking the sore,
and it was sure to heal. They had a similar charm for the bean-shaw
or sciatica:
‘We are three maidens charming for the bean-shaw,

The man of the middle earth,
Blue bearer, land fever,
Manners of stoors,
The Lord flegged the Fiend with his holy candles and yird-fast
stone;
There she sits and here she is gone:
Let her never come here again!’
Another was for cases of fever:
‘I forbid the quaking-fevers, the sea-fevers, the land-fevers, and

all the fevers that ever God ordained,
Out of the head, out of the heart, out of the back, out of the
sides, out of the knees, out of the thies,
Frae the points of the fingers to the nebs of the taes:
Out sall the fevers go, some to the hill, some to the hope,
Some to the stone, some to the stock,
In St Peter’s name, St Paul’s name, and all the saints of heaven,
In the name of the Father, the Son, and the Haly Ghaist!’
More generally, however, they were employed in planting or

prolonging diseases. Isobel Gowdie told the minister that, in the
preceding winter, when he was sick, they made a bagful of horrible
broth of the entrails of toads, parings of nails, the liver of a hare,
pickles of beir and bits of rag, and, at the dictation of the devil,
pronounced over it this charm:
‘He is lying in his bed, he is lying sick and sair,

Let him lie intill his bed two months and three days mair,’ &c.
‘Then we fell down upon our knees, with our hair

down over our shoulders and eyes, and our hands 1662.
lifted up, and our eyes steadfastly fixed upon the
devil, and said the foresaid words thrice over.... In the night-time,
we came into Mr Harry Forbes’s chalmer, with our hands all smeared,
to swing [the bag] upon Mr Harry, where he was sick in his bed; and
in the daytime [there came ane of our number] to swing the bag
[upon the said Mr Harry, as we could]204 not prevail in the night-
time against him.’
Isobel stated the charm for taking away a cow’s milk. ‘We pull the
tow [rope] and twine it, and plait it the wrong way in the devil’s
name; and we draw the tether, sae made, in betwixt the cow’s
hinder feet, and out betwixt the cow’s forward feet, in the devil’s
name; and thereby takes with us the cow’s milk.... The way to give
back the milk again is to cut the tether. When we take away the
strength of any person’s ale, and gives it to another, we take a little
quantity out of each barrel or stand of ale, and puts it in a stoup, in
the devil’s name; and, in his name, with our awn hands, puts it
amang another’s ale, and gives her the strength and substance of
her neighbour’s ale. [The way] to keep the ale from us, that we have
no power of it, is to sanctify it weel.’
One of their evil doings was to take away the strength of the
manure of such as they wished ill to, or to make their lands
unproductive. ‘Before Candlemas, we went be-east Kinloss, and
there we yoked a pleuch of paddocks. The devil held the pleuch, and
John Young in Mebestown, our officer, did drive the pleuch.
Paddocks did draw the pleuch as oxen. Quickens [dog-grass] were
soams [traces]; a riglen’s [ram’s] horn was a coulter; and a piece of
a riglen’s horn was a sock. We went several times about, and all we
of the covin went still up and down with the pleuch, praying to the
devil for the fruit of that land, and that thistles and briers might
grow there.’ When they wished to have fish, they had only to go to
the shore just before the boats came home and say three several
times:
‘The fishers are gone to the sea,

And they will bring home fish to me;
They will bring them home intill the boat,
But they sall get of them but the smaller sort.’
Accordingly, they obtained all the fishes in the boats, leaving the
fishermen nothing but slime behind.
Having conceived a design of destroying all the
Laird of Park’s male children, they made a small 1662.
effigy of a child in clay, and having learned the
proper charm from their master, fell down before him on their knees,
with their hair hanging over their eyes, and looking steadily at him,
said:
‘In the devil’s name

We pour this water amang the meal,
For lang dwining and ill heal;
We put it intill the fire,
That it may be burned baith stick and stour.
It sall be brunt with our will,
As any stickle205 upon a kiln.’
‘Then, in the devil’s name,’ says the culprit, ‘we did put it in, in the
midst of the fire. After it was red like a coal, we took it out in the
devil’s name. Till it be broken, it will be the death of all the male
children that the Laird of Park will ever get.... It was roasten each
other day at the fire; sometimes one part of it, sometimes another
part of it, would be wet with water, and then roasten. The bairn
would be burnt and roasten, even as it was by us.’ One child having
died, the hags laid up the image till the next baby was born, and
‘within half a year after that bairn was born, we took it out again,
and would dip it now and then in water, and beek and roast it at the
fire, each other day once, untill that bairn died also.’
The devil made elf-arrows for them, and, learning to shoot these by
an adroit use of the thumb, they killed several persons with them,
also some cattle. ‘I shot at the Laird of Park,’ says Isobel, ‘as he was
crossing the Burn of Boath; but, thanks be to God that he preserved
him. Bessie Hay gave me a great cuff because I missed him.’ She
spoke of having herself shot a man engaged in ploughing, and also a
woman.
Not satisfied with what they had done against the
Laird of Park, they held a diabolic convention at 1662.
Elspet Nisbet’s house, to take measures for the entire destruction of
his family and that of the Laird of Lochloy. Taking some dog’s flesh
and some sheep’s flesh, they chopped it small and seethed it for a
whole forenoon in a pot. Then the devil put in a sheep’s bag, which
he stirred about for some time with his hands. ‘We were upon our
knees, our hair about our eyes, and our hands lifted up, and we
looking steadfastly upon the devil, praying to him, repeating the
words which he learned us, that it should kill and destroy the Lairds
of Park and Lochloy, and their male children and posterity. And then
we came to the Inshoch in the night-time, and scattered it about the
gate, and other places where the lairds and their sons would most
haunt, and then we, in the likeness of craws and rooks, stood about
the gate and in the trees opposite. It was appointed so that if any of
them should touch or tramp on any of it, it should strike them with
boils, &c., and kill them. Whilk it did, and they shortly died. We did it
to make that house heirless. It would wrong none else but they.’
We are not informed of the fate of Isobel Gowdie, or her associate,
Janet Braidhead, from whose confession the last particulars are
extracted; but there can be no doubt that they perished at the stake.
Theirs are clearly cases of hallucination, mistakes of dreams and
passing thoughts for real events, the whole being prompted in the
first place by the current tales of witchcraft, and then made to
assume in their own eyes a character of guilt because the witches
themselves believed in witchcraft and all its turpitude, as well as
their neighbours.
The new-made Archbishop of St Andrews (Sharpe)

commenced a sort of progress from Edinburgh, to Apr. 15.
take possession of his see. Dining with Sir Andrew
Ramsay at Abbotshall, he came to lodge at Leslie, attended by
several of the nobility and gentry. The anxiety of the upper classes
to do honour to the new system is shewn in the cortège which
accompanied the prelate next day to St Andrews. He had an earl on
each hand, and various other nobles and lairds, and at one time
between seven and eight hundred mounted gentlemen, in his train.
Next Sunday, he preached in the town-church of St Andrews, on the
text, ‘I am determined to know nothing among you, save Jesus
Christ, and him crucified.’ ‘His sermon did not run much on the
words, but in a discourse vindicating himself, and pressing
Episcopacy and the utility of it.’—Lam.
By an act of parliament, this day was henceforth to

be held as a holiday, both as the king’s birthday May 20.
and as the anniversary of his majesty’s restoration.
All over Scotland, the ordinance seems to have been heartily
complied with. Everywhere there were religious services and
abstinence from labour, and in most places active demonstrations of
rejoicing, as beating of drums, shooting of cannon, sounding of
trumpets, setting up of bonfires, and ceremonial drinkings of royal
healths in public places.
Through a peculiar loyal zeal, there was an
extraordinary demonstration at Linlithgow. Not 1662.
merely was the fine public fountain of that ancient
burgh set flowing with divers coloured wines of France and Spain;
not merely did the magistrates, accompanied by the Earl of
Linlithgow and the minister of the parish, come to the market-place
and there drink the king’s health at a collation in the open air,
throwing sweetmeats and glasses among the people, but an arch
had been constructed, with the genius of the Covenant (an old hag)
on one side, a Whiggamore on the other, and the devil on the top—
on the back, a picture of Rebellion ‘in a religious habit, with turned-
up eyes and a fanatic gesture,’ while on the pillars were drawn ‘kirk-
stools, rocks, and reels,’ ‘brochans, cogs, and spoons,’ with legends
containing burlesque allusions to the doings of the zealous during
the preceding twenty years: and at the drinking of the king’s health,
this fabric was set fire to and consumed, together with copies of the
Covenants, and all the acts of parliament passed during the Civil
War, as well as many protestations, declarations, and other public
documents of great celebrity in their day. When the fire was over,
there appeared, in place of the late fabric, a tablet supported by two
angels, and presenting the following inscription:
‘Great Britain’s monarch on this day was born,

And to his kingdom happily restored;
His queen’s arrived, the matter now is known,
Let us rejoice, this day is from the Lord!
Flee hence all traitors, that did mar our peace;

Flee, all schismatics who our church did rent;
Flee, Covenanting remonstrating race;
Let us rejoice that God this day hath sent.’
Then the magistrates accompanied the earl to the palace, where he,
as keeper, had a grand bonfire, and here the loyal toasts were all
drunk over again. Finally, the magistrates made a procession
through the burgh, saluting every man of account.206
Wodrow tells us that this ‘mean mock of the work of reformation,’
was chiefly managed by Robert Miln, then bailie of Linlithgow, and
Mr James Ramsay, the minister of the parish, subsequently bishop of
Dunblane; both of whom had a few years before ‘solemnly entered
into, and renewed these covenants, with uplifted hands to the Lord.’
‘The first in some time thereafter came to great riches and honour
[as a farmer of revenues], but outlived them, and the exercise of his
judgment too, and died bankrupt in miserable circumstances at
Holyroodhouse.’
One Grieve, a maltman at Kirkcaldy, was
deliberately murdered by his son, in consequence 1662. June 16.
of family quarrels. The wretched youth took some
cunning measures for concealing the murder, but in vain. ‘He is had
to the corpse; but the corpse did not bleed upon him (for some
affirm that the corpse will not bleed for the first twenty-four hours
after the murder): however, he is keepit, and within some hours
after, he is had to the corpse again, and, the son taking the father
by the hand, the corpse bleeds at the nose; but he still denies. Also,
the man’s wife is brought, and they cause her touch her husband;
but he did not bleed.’ The lad afterwards confessed, and was
hanged.—Lam.
This was a year of uncommon abundance, in both grain and fruit,

‘the like never seen heretofore.’ ‘The streets of Edinburgh were filled
full of all sorts of fruits ... sold exceeding cheap.’—Nic.
Decision was given in the Court of Session of a

singular case, in which several of the peers of the July 3.
realm were concerned. ‘Lord Coupar, sitting in
parliament, taking out his watch, handed it to Lord Pitsligo, who
refusing to restore it, an action was brought for the value. Lord
Pitsligo said, that Lord Coupar having put his watch in his hand to
see what hour it was, Lord Sinclair putting forth his hand for a sight
of the watch, Lord Pitsligo put it into Lord Sinclair’s hand, in the
presence of Lord Coupar, without contradiction, which must
necessarily import his consent. Lord Coupar answered that, they
being then sitting in parliament, his silence could not import his
consent. The Lords repelled Lord Pitsligo’s defence, and found him
liable in the value of the watch.’207
The check lately imposed on the cruelty of

proceedings in witch cases was not everywhere 1662.
effectual; but in one instance of alleged wizardry in
the Highlands, the tyranny of the usual process was controlled in a
most characteristic manner. A group of poor people, tenants in the
parish of Kilmorack and Kiltarnity, in Inverness-shire—namely, Hector
M‘Lean; Jonet M‘Lean, his spouse; Margaret M‘Lean, sister of
Jonet; and
ten or twelve other women of indescribable Highland names—had
been apprehended and imprisoned for the alleged crime of
witchcraft, at the instance of Alexander Chisholm, of Commer; Colin
Chisholm, his brother; John Valentine, and Thomas Chisholm,
cousins of Alexander. The women had been put into restraint in
Alexander Chisholm’s house, while Hector M‘Lean was confined in
the Tolbooth of Inverness. Donald, a brother of
John M‘Lean, was searched for as being also a wizard, but he kept
out of the way. The Chisholms then set to torturing the women, ‘by
waking them, hanging them up by the thumbs, burning the soles of
their feet in the fire,’ drawing some of them ‘at horses’ tails, and
binding of them with widdies [withes] about the neck and feet.’
Under this treatment, one became distracted, another died; the rest
confessed whatever was demanded of them. Upon the strength of
confessions extorted by ‘tortures more bitter than death itself’—such
is the language of the sufferers—the Chisholms had obtained a
commission for trying the accused.
It was alleged in a petition from M‘Lean and the other prisoners, that
the whole of this prosecution arose from inveterate hatred on the
part of the Chisholms, because they could not get them in a legal
way put out of their lands and possessions, where they had been for
between two and three hundred years past—so early was the
fashion of eviction in the Highlands. And here comes in the
characteristic feature of the case. These M‘Leans, though so long
removed from the country of their chief and dwelling among
strangers, were still M‘Leans, owning a fealty to their chief in his
remote Mull fastness, and looking for protection in return.
Accordingly, we have this insular chief, Sir Rory M‘Lean of Dowart,
coming in with a petition to the Privy Council in behalf of these poor
people, setting forth their case in its strongest light, and demanding
justice for them. The Council ordered proceedings under their
commission to be stopped, and sent to require the Chisholms to
come before them along with the prisoners.
How this matter ended we do not learn; but it is evident that the
clan feeling was effectual in saving the M‘Leans from further
proceedings of an arbitrary and cruel nature.—P. C. R.
Early in the ensuing year, there occur a number of
petitions to the Council from individuals who had 1662.
been confined a long time on charges of
witchcraft, either untried for want of evidence, or who had been
tried and acquitted, but were further detained in hope of evidence
being obtained. One of these was from a burgess of Lauder named
Wilkison, in favour of his wife, who was kept in a miserable condition
in prison, even after her accuser had expressed penitence for
‘delating’ her! The Council generally shewed a disposition to liberate
such persons on petition; but there were cases which lay long
neglected. We hear in January 1666 of a poor woman named, Jonet
Howat, who had been a prisoner in Forfar jail on suspicion of
witchcraft for several years, and was now ‘redacted to the extreme
of misery,’ never having all the time been subjected to trial.208 Jonet
was ordered to be liberated, if her trial could not be immediately
proceeded with. It is rather remarkable to find in the ill-reputed
government of this time traits of a certain considerateness and
humanity towards women under charges of witchcraft—for example,
taking care that they should not be tortured by unauthorised
persons, and making sure that even their voluntary confessions
should appear as proceeding from a sane mind; thus shewing a
feeling which was to all appearance unknown during the late régime.
Jon Ponthus, a German, styling himself professor

of physic, but who would now be called a quack- July.
doctor, was in Scotland for the third time, having
previously paid professional visits in 1633 and
1643. His proceedings afford a lively illustration of 1662.
the state of medical science in our island, and of
the views of the public mind regarding what is necessary to a good
physician. Erecting a stage on the High Street of Edinburgh, he had
one person to play the fool, and another to dance on a rope, in
order to attract and amuse his audience. Then he commenced
selling his drugs, which cost eighteenpence per packet, and Nicoll
allows that they ‘proved very good and real.’ This honest chronicler
seems to have been much pleased with the antics of the performers.
Upon a great rope fixed from side to side of the street, a man
‘descended upon his breast, his hands loose and stretched out like
the wings of a fowl, to the admiration of many.’ Most curious of all,
‘the chirurgeons of the country, and also the apothecaries, finding
thir drugs and recipes good and cheap, came to Edinburgh from all
parts of the kingdom and bought them,’ for the purpose of selling
them again at a profit. ‘Thir plays and dancings upon the rope
continued the space of many days, whose agility and nimbleness
was admirable to the beholders; ane of these dancers having danced
sevenscore times at a time without intermission, lifting himself and
vaulting six quarter heigh above his awn head, and lighting directly
upon the tow, as punctually as gif he had been dancing upon the
plain-stones.’—Nic. The quack subsequently exhibited in like manner
at Glasgow, Stirling, Perth, Cupar, and St Andrews.—Lam.
‘About the same time, another mountebank, a High German, had the
like sports and commodities to gain money. He was at Edinburgh
twice, as also at Aberdeen and Dundee. He likewise had the leaping
and flying rope—viz., coming down ane high tow, and his head all
the way downward, his arms and feet holden out all the time; and
this he did divers times in one afternoon.’—Lam.
In December 1665, a doctor of physic, named Joanna Baptista,
acting under his majesty’s warrant, ‘erected a stage [in Edinburgh]
between Niddry’s and Blackfriars’ Wynd head, and there vended his
drugs, powder, and medicaments, for the whilk he received a great
abundance of money.’—Nic.
‘It pleased the king’s majesty at this time to raise
[five] companies of foot-soldiers, weel provided in Sep.
arms, able stout Scotsmen, by and attour those of
the life-guard, wha attended his majesty’s service in and about
Edinburgh, ever ready to attend the king’s pleasure and the
parliament’s direction.’—Nic.
Died, the Earl of Balcarres, a boy. ‘The lady, his

mother, caused open him, and in his heart was Oct. 15.
found a notched stone, the bigness of one’s five
fingers, Dr Martin and John Gourlay [apothecary] being present at
his embalming.’209—Lam.
The clergymen of Edinburgh, five in number, were

all displaced for non-conformity to the new Nov.
Episcopal rule, excepting one, Mr Robert Lowrie,
who consequently obtained the name of the Nest Egg. He became
Dean of Edinburgh. The inhabitants of the city, not relishing the new
ministers, began to desert the churches and go to worship
elsewhere. At the same time, the Monday’s sermon, which had for
some years been in use, was discontinued.
In the new church establishment the chief object
held in view was to get the church courts 1662.
controlled by bishops and the royal supremacy.
Matters of worship and discipline were left much as they had been.
No ceremonies of any kind, nor any liturgy, were attempted. ‘The
reading of Scriptures was brought in again, and the psalms sung
with this addition: “Glory to the Father, to the Son, and to Holy
Ghost,” &c.’ That was all. While the famous Perth articles were left in
oblivion, it was felt to be necessary that there should be some
respect paid to the day of the Nativity. Accordingly, the next
Christmas-day was solemnly kept in Edinburgh, the bishop preaching
in the Easter Kirk (St Giles) to a large audience, in which were
included the commissioner, chancellor, and all the nobles in town.
‘The sermon being ended, command was given by tuck of drum, that
the remanent of the day should be spent as a holiday, that no work
nor labour should be used, and no mercat nor trade on the streets,
and that no merchant booth should be opened under pain of £20 in
case of failyie.’—Nic.
There was also a kind of volunteer effort in certain classes to get up
an observance of the day consecrated to the national saint.
November 30, a Sunday, being St Andrew’s Day, ‘many of our
nobles, barons, gentry, and others of this kingdom, put on ane livery
or favour, for reverence thereof. This being a novelty, I thought good
to record, because it was never of use heretofore since the
Reformation.’—Nic.
Died David Mitchell, Bishop of Aberdeen, ‘a little

man, of a brisk lively temper, well learned, and a 1663. Feb.
good preacher. He lived a single life, and his
manners were without reproach.’ This prelate had experienced some
strange vicissitudes of fortune. Originally a protégé of Archbishop
Spottiswoode, and probably by his favour advanced from a parish
pulpit in the Mearns to be a dean, he had been thrust out by the
Covenanters in 1638, and retired to Holland. There, ‘being a good
mechanic, he gained his bread by making clocks and watches.’ At
the Restoration, being enabled to return to his native country, he
was made a prebend of Westminster, and thence advanced to the
see of Aberdeen.210
‘There was ane lioness brought to Edinburgh with
ane lamb in its company, with whom she did feed Mar.
and live; wha did embrace the lamb in her arms,
as gif it had been her awn birth.’—Nic. 1663.
‘This year was a very plentiful year of corns and stone-fruit,’ and the
ensuing winter was ‘exceeding fair and warm weather, without any
frost or snow.’—Nic.
‘At this time, came here that valiant Colonel

Rutherford, born and brought up in Edinburgh, a Nov.
stout champion, late governor of Dunkirk, and now
of Tangier, a man famous for his actions abroad. He came, having
licence from his majesty to visit his friends here for a very few
days.... It wald be here remembered that the Scottish nation in my
time produced not a few such cavaliers; such as Colonel Edment,
born in Stirling, a baxter’s son; Colonel Boog, Colonel Hepburn,
Colonel Douglas, General Ruthven, General Leslie, General King, and
many others, all valiant men, to the credit of this kingdom.’—Nic.
Colonel Rutherford was ennobled under the title of Earl of Teviot, but
did not long survive, being killed in May 1664, by an army of Moors.
He left money to build eight rooms in the College of Edinburgh,
where he had been educated.
This month and the succeeding, there were many

robberies throughout the country, and even in the 1664. Jan.
streets and closes of Edinburgh, ‘occasioned by the
poverty of the land, and heavy burdens pressing upon the people;
the haill money of the kingdom being spent by the frequent resort of
our Scotsmen at the court of England.’—Nic.
One James Elder, a baker in the Canongate,

Edinburgh, was tried for usury. The witnesses Apr. 20.
deponed that they saw him receive 8 per cent.
from his debtor, and one of them deponed that he refused to accept
6 per cent. till he got 2 per cent. more. Being found guilty, his goods
were escheat, and he ordered to find security that he would be
ready to undergo any further punishment that might be inflicted
upon him.—B. of C.
What was then, partly under religious feelings, regarded as a crime,
has since come to be held as legitimate traffic; and it is not
unworthy of remark that the Bank of England was, at the time of the
preparation of this article (November 1857), charging on bills 2 per
cent. more than that rate of interest which caused James Elder in
1664 to forfeit his whole possessions.
The Earl of Leven, a young man, grandson of the
great commander, ended his life in a manner 1664.July 15.
characteristic of this mad-merry time. ‘He died of a
high fever, after a large carouse with the Earl of Dundee at
Edinburgh and the Queensferry. Some say that, in crossing, they
drank sea-water one to another, and, after their landing, seck.’ A
funeral-sermon was preached for him, on the text, ‘Our life is but a
vapour, &c.,’ being ‘the first funeral-sermon that hath been preached
in Fife these twenty-four years last past, or more.’—Lam.
At this time, while the plague raged with great

violence in Holland, carrying off as many as 739 July.
persons in one day in Amsterdam, ‘there was much death in
Scotland by ane fever called the Purple Fever.’—Nic.
‘There fell out much division between the king’s

Customers [officers of customs] and the merchants Nov.
of Edinburgh, anent the searching of their
merchandise and goods, and payment of their customs; and the
Customers being informed that the merchants had brought in privily
from England certain braid claith, and had convoyed the same over
the town-wall privily in the night, they thereupon received warrant
from the Great Treasurer and his deputes for searching the haill
merchants’ booths of Edinburgh, and to stamp and seal their haill
braid claith, and to take their oaths of verity anent the quantity of
their merchandise and goods customable. The merchants, hearing
the report thereof, in a moment closed up all their shops and doors,
and held out Sir Walter Simpson, principal Customer, and his
associates, from entry to their shops; but he placed sentries at their
doors, that they should receive nothing out.’ The affair ended in a
riot, in the course of which Sir Walter’s house was pillaged and an
apprentice shot, and which was only quieted by military force.—Nic.
This year, like the two preceding, was remarkable for abundance of
the fruits of the earth. ‘Much corn cuttit down in July ... the cherries
sold at twelve pennies Scots [that is, one penny sterling] the
hundred.’ Great penury nevertheless complained of.—Nic.
‘There appeared nightly, frae four hours in the

morning till daylight, ane fiery comet, tending in Dec.
our sight frae the south-east to the north-west,
and seen in our horizon betwixt Arthur’s Seat and 1664.
Pichtland Hills, with ane tail terrible to the
beholders.... This comet, in the head, was, in our sight, the breadth
of ane reasonable man’s hand, and sprang out in the tail the length
of five or six ells.’—Nic. It ‘began to appear about three o’clock in the
morning, very terrible in its first apparition; after that, it appeared at
evening. It was a star of a more dim and bluish apparition (like a
candle dying out) than the rest of the stars, with a long train of
lightning from it, sometimes a fathom and a half in appearance,
sometimes shorter.’—Lam.
Pepys relates that the king and queen sat up on the night of the
17th of December, to see this comet, ‘and did, it seems.’ He also tells
us of a lecture he was present at, in Gresham College, where Mr
Hooke made it seem ‘very probable that this is the very same comet
that appeared before in 1618, and that in such a time probably it will
appear again, which is a very new opinion.’211
The comet of 1664 passed its perihelion on the 4th of December, at
a distance from the sun somewhat greater than that of the earth’s
orbit. The remark of Mr Hooke is erroneous in point of fact, but
nevertheless interesting, as shewing that the periodicity of comets
was now a subject of speculation among the few then cultivating
natural philosophy in England.
About the end of this year, Sharpe, Archbishop of St Andrews,

purchased the lands of Scotscraig, a good estate in Fife, at 95,000
merks or thereby (about £5540). In the spring of 1669, he made a
further purchase of the lands of Strathtyrum, near St Andrews, for
about 27,000 merks. These doings argue the lucrative nature of the
preferments for which Sharpe, as his brethren believed, had sold his
party and his conscience. He had a brother William, who was at the
same time rising in prosperity, and who, in 1665, bought the lands of
West Newton, near Musselburgh, now called Stonyhill, at 27,000
merks. This William Sharpe was knighted by the Commissioner
Lauderdale in 1669.
The Laird of Lundie, a young unmarried man, was

buried in Largo Church, with that novel and 1665. Jan. 5.
superfluous pomp with which all important matters
had been conducted since the Restoration. The 1665.
funeral was attended by a great number of the
nobility and gentry of Fife, Lothian, and the Carse of Gowrie,
including the Earls of Crawford, Athole, Kellie, Wemyss, Tweeddale,
and Balcarres, Lords Lyon, Elphinstone, and Newark, who all dined
at the house of Lundie before the corpse ‘was lifted.’ The coach or
hearse, decorated with the armorial insignia of the deceased, and a
pall of black velvet, was drawn by six horses, preceded by three
trumpeters and four heralds in proper costume.
‘The heralds and painter got, for their pains, about 800 merks; the
poor ten dollars; the coachmen seven dollars; the trumpeters forty-
eight dollars; the baxter, James Weiland, seven dollars; George Wan,
master of the household ...; the cooks, ...; Mr Waters, that dressed
the coach, seven dollars; ... some men that served ...; the Kirkcaldy
man, for the coffin, 40 lib.; John Gourlay, apothecary, for drogs,
attendance, and bowelling of him, ...; James Thomson, in Kirkcaldy,
for mournings, 412 lib. or thereby; at Edinburgh, for mournings, 600
lib. or thereby; Gid. Sword for drogs, 16 lib. or thereby; to the writer
at Edinburgh for paper and the burial letters, 12 lib.; at Edinburgh,
for claret wine, 200 merks; for seck, 100 lib.; at Edinburgh, two
divers times, for spices, about 100 lib.; for sugar ... R. Dobie, for
tobacco, seven lib.; R. Clydesdale, for ware, 54 lib., 11s.; Will.
Foggo, for beef, 84 lib., 12s.; Capper, at Scoonie, for capps, 6s. ster.;
An. Brebner, smith, for the chimlay and work, near ane 100 lib. or
thereby; Robert Bonaly, for dyeing to the servants, 21 lib., 6s. 8d.;
Glover in the Wemyss, for servants’ gloves, 4 lib.’—Lam.
Died at Cupar, Thomas Seaton, who is described as
‘a great exciseman,’ meaning a farmer of the Jan. 9.
revenue over a considerable district. The event
would not be worthy of notice, but for a connected circumstance.
‘He died a Catholic Roman, which was never divulged till his
death.’—Lam. Such a fact, revealing a lifelong hypocrisy in a man of
some consequence, is very startling amidst the universal professions
of anxiety for ‘the true religion.’ But it may well be supposed to be
but one of many instances in which intolerance produced one of its
natural fruits, dissimulation.
In the latter part of this month, for several days,

‘there appeared in the clear light of day, even at Feb.
twelve, one, and two o’clock, and also in the haill
afternoon, ane fiery blazing star in the firmament. 1665.
This star continued and increased daily and nightly
thereafter, by the space of many weeks, sometimes having a great
brugh about it [a halo] like the moon.’—Nic.
In consequence of the war between Great Britain

and Holland, great stagnation of trade was Feb.
experienced in Scotland, ‘to the heavy damage and
wreck of the people.’ ‘The seamen were daily sought, taken, and
warded, till they were shipped for that service.’ ‘The towns upon the
north shore of the Firth of Forth had daily and nightly watches for
their defence, in case they should be surprised by the Hollanders.’—
Nic.
Snow had begun at Christmas 1664, and it lay upon the ground till
the 14th of March this year—a storm of which the like had not been
seen for many years before.—Nic. ‘Some began to say there would
hardly be any seed-time at all this year; but it pleased the Lord, out
of His gracious goodness, on a sudden to send seasonable weather
for the seed-time, so that in many places the oat seed was sooner
done this year [than] in many years formerly; for the long frost
made the ground very free, and the husbandmen, for the most part,
affirmed they never saw the ground easier to labour.’ Many sheep
perished during the storm, and the frost was severe enough to kill
the broom and whins in many places.—Lam.
In the end of this month, appeared a new and

fearful comet, greater than that seen in November. Mar.
It was visible in all parts of Europe, and ‘set many
heads at work.’ The recent alarms spread by the Turks through
Europe, and which had affected even Scotland, and the feeling of
anxiety occasioned by the Dutch war and constant threats of
invasion, gave more than its proper share of terrors to this celestial
stranger. ‘They write from Frankfort, Dresden, Berlin, and other
places, of strange sights and terrible in the air; many of which are
undoubtedly augmented by imagination and report, yet a great part
of the story is looked upon as a truth.’—Nic.
This comet, which was seen in France two months earlier than it
seems to have been in Scotland, was observed by Hevelius, Cassini,
and others. It passed its perihelion on the 24th of April, at a
comparatively small distance from the sun, and with a great
eccentricity of orbit.
We get some idea of the expense of building at
this time, from the sum at which Robert Mylne, Apr.
master-mason in Edinburgh, undertook to erect an
hospital at the kirk-town of Largo. It was a house 1665.
of fourteen fire-rooms and a public hall; each room
containing a bed, a closet, and a loom; besides which there was a
stone-bridge at the entry, and a gardener’s house, two stories high.
‘Some say he was to have for the work, being complete, 9000 merks
[£506], and if it was found weel done, 500 merks more.’—Lam. In
1661, according to the same diarist, when some mason-work was
executed at Lundie, in Fife, the master had tenpence a day, and the
other men ninepence, ‘and all their diet in the house.’
This day, being Sunday, the news of the great

naval victory over the Dutch reached Edinburgh (in June 11.
three days from London) during the time of
service. ‘No sooner were these good news divulged, but they were
saluted from the [Leith] Road and from the Castle; as also with all
taikens of joy upon the morrow thereafter, by setting out of bonfires
in the town and places adjacent, and by ringing of bells, shooting of
cannons frae sea; the town of Edinburgh marching with their
displayed colours frae the Abbey, the commissioner’s lodging, to the
Castle yett; all of them dancing and louping for joy through the
streets and bonfires as they went, drinking his majesty’s health at
the bonfires.’—Nic.
Scotland was now under great alarm on account of

the terrific plague which had broken out in July.
London, and which lasted with great violence till
October. Orders were issued by the Privy Council, forbidding any to
come on business from the south without a testimonial of health.
‘Albeit there were not a few travellers and resorters therefrae,’ it
pleased God that the pestilence should not come to Scotland.—Nic.
The exemption of our country is the more remarkable, as the plague
made its way into Ireland, and proved highly destructive in Dublin.
The great plague of 1665 was the subject of
serious remark in Scotland, in connection with 1665.
circumstances much calculated to impress certain
minds in that part of the world. ‘I find it taken notice of,’ says
Wodrow, ‘by several papers written at this time, that the appearance
of a globe of fire was seen above that part of the city where the
Solemn League and Covenant was burnt so ignominiously by the
hands of the hangman. Whatever was in this, it seems certain that
the plague broke out there; and it was observed to rage mostly in
that street, where that open affront had been put upon the oath of
God, and very few were left alive there.’
The Lord High Commissioner, the Earl of Rothes,

commenced a progress through the west country, Nov. 2.
attended by the life-guard, the foot companies,
and a cavalcade of nine hundred gentlemen, with trumpeters, kettle-
drum, and royal standard. He went to Hamilton, Paisley, Eglintoun,
and Dumbarton, ‘in a triumphant and comely manner;’ next to the
Earl of Montrose’s house of Mugdock, and thence by Callendar and
Linlithgow, back to Edinburgh, everywhere ‘royally entertained,’ and
spending in all eighteen days on the journey.—Nic. It is to be
suspected that idle and costly amusements of this kind, which had
come in with the Restoration, had something to do with the poverty
now complained of.
The light regard paid to the personal rights of
individuals was shewn by a wholesale deportation Nov.
of poor people at this time to the West Indies. The
chronic evil of Scotland, an oppressive multitude of idle wandering
people and beggars, was not now much less afflicting than it had
been in the two preceding reigns. It was proposed to convert them
to some utility by transferring them to a field where there was a
pressing want of labour. On the 2d of November, George Hutcheson,
merchant in Edinburgh, for himself and copartners, addressed the
Privy Council on this subject, ‘out of a desire as weel to promote the
Scottish and English plantations in Gemaica and Barbadoes for the
honour of their country, as to free the kingdom of the burden of
many strong and idle beggars, Egyptians, common and notorious
thieves and other dissolute and louss persons, banished or
stigmatised for gross crimes.’ The petitioners had, by warrant of the
sheriffs, justices of peace, and magistrates of burghs, apprehended
and secured some of these people; yet without authority of the
Council they thought they might ‘meet with some opposition in the
promoting and advancing so good a work.’ It was therefore
necessary for them to obtain due order and warrant from the
Council.
The Council granted warrant and power to the
petitioners to transport all such persons; ‘providing 1665.
always, that ye bring the said persons before the
Lord Justice-clerk, to whom it is hereby recommended to try and
take notice of the persons, that they be justly convict for crimes, or
such vagabonds as, by the laws of the country may be apprehended,
to the effect the country may be disburdened of them.’
Two months later, James Dunbar, merchant, bound for Barbadoes,
was licensed to take sundry ‘vagabonds and idle persons prisoners in
Edinburgh, content to go of their own accord.’
The population of Barbadoes includes a greater proportion of whites
than that of any other island of the West Indies, and the industrial
economy of the island is also admittedly superior. It is understood
that this is in a great measure owing to the cruel deportations of the
poor people of Scotland to that island in the seventeenth century.
Another good harvest, ‘whilk was the cause that a

number of fee’d servants, both men and women, Nov.
did marry at Martinmas, by way of penny-bridals,
both within the town of Edinburgh and other parts of the country.’—
Nic.
Although the preceding had been, according to

Nicoll, ‘a dangerous, cruel, and bloody year,’ and 1666. Jan. 1.
though at this time an order stood forbidding
commerce with the plague-stricken south, yet ‘upon the 1st day of
January 1666, there was as much drinking and carousing as in
former times.’
After the restoration of Episcopacy, the attendance

at the churches in Glasgow fell so much off, that Apr. 3.
the collection for the poor no longer produced
nearly what was necessary for their sustentation. At this date, we
find the archbishop writing to the Town Council, adverting to the
‘several persons, men and women, who ordinarily dishaunts public
ordinances, and flatters themselves with hope of impunity.’ His grace
threatened to employ some of the officers of his majesty’s militia,
‘both to observe who withdraws from ordinances and to exact the
penalties imposed by law.’ The magistrates then resolved to take
steps for collecting the fines for non-attendance at church, as being
better ‘than that any sodgers should have the collecting thereof.’—M.
of G.
At a horse-race at Cupar, ‘the Lord Lithgow and the

Lord Carnegie, after cups, there passed some Apr. 12.
words betwixt them, and about night they drew off
from the rest, on the hill towards Tarbet Broom, 1666.
and drew their swords one at another, till at last
Carnegie gave Lithgow a sore wound. While this was noised abroad,
divers of the nobility and others there present did ride to stop them;
among whom was the Earl of Wemyss, who, labouring to ride in
betwixt the parties, had both his own horse under him, and his
man’s horse, thrust through by them, while they were drawing one
at another, so that both the horses died; also one of Lord Melville’s
horses was hurt, and the Lord Newark had one of his servants
ridden down also and hurt. At night they were both put under arrest
by his majesty’s commissioner [the Earl of Rothes] at Cupar, in their
several quarters.’—Lam.
Apr.
For several years after the Restoration, various
districts in the Highlands continued to be haunted 1666.
by groups of wild and lawless men who made prey
of their more industrious and peaceable neighbours. The only
resource of the government was to appoint some considerable man
of the disturbed district to raise a force among his tenants and
dependents, for the execution of the laws against the delinquents.
Thus, we find a small military party under the Marquis of Montrose
appointed (April 5, 1666), under the name of a Watch, to keep the
peace in the district of Cowal, in Argyleshire. Another watch of sixty
men, under Mungo Stirling of Glorat, was appointed for Stirlingshire
and Dumbartonshire. A third district, often and seriously disturbed
by robberies, was Strathspey and the alpine ground extending from
it towards Perthshire and Aberdeenshire—a country of Macphersons
and M‘Intyres, now the scene of an improved agriculture, and the
nursery of vast herds of sheep and cattle devoted to the sustenance
of the industrial cities of England. In those days, men who would
now be successful farmers, exemplifying the decent virtues of the
Scottish middle class, were little better than banditti. Their names
and localities will verify this fact to all who are acquainted with the
Strathspey of our day. Besides Patrick Roy Macgregor, who seems to
have been the leader of the set, there were ‘John M‘Inteir at
Invereshie; M‘Phatrig M‘Inteir, in Auchnahad; Thomas M‘Pherson, in
Tullilundley; John Reoch, there; Walter Mitchell, sometime in
Tulliboe; Duncan M‘Connochy, sometime in Doghillocks; John
Urquhart, sometime in Caldwell; Ewen Cameron, in Glensyth; John
M‘Gremmon, in Rippach; John M‘Fillech, alias Breck, in Delvorer;
John M‘Gremmon, in Bellerathens in Strathaven; Alaster M‘Phatrig, in
Elsheirland; James Strauchen, in Cairlies; William Storach, in the Mill
of Auchinhandach; Thomas Forbes, sometime in Muiresk; John
M‘Andley, in Lesmurdie; Thomas Gordon, in Tilliesoul, called the
Skinner; John Oig Gordon, in Strathaven, called Moonlight; Donald
M‘Gillandries, who haunts in Spey; John Bane M‘Alister Gourlay, in
Auchnakint in Badenoch; M‘Phatrig M‘Inteir, there; John Roy
M‘Inteir, there; John M‘Inteir,
called the Ratton, in Glenlivet;’ and many other Gordons, Reochs,
Forbeses, &c., together with the wives of several of the same
individuals, all of whom were denounced at the horn for ‘not
appearing to underly the law.’
The Council at length gave a commission of fire and sword to John
Lyon of Muiresk and Alexander his second son, against these
outlaws, and the two gentlemen were preparing means for its
execution, when the whole banditti beset them at the house of
Balcheiries, belonging to John Lyon. The outlaws set fire to the
house in all quarters, and the two gentlemen were obliged to
surrender themselves to their mercy. The assailants then
unmercifully fell upon the unfortunate commissioner and his son
with dirks and guns, and soon made an end of them (April 30,
1666). To the number of forty persons, they then made an attack
upon the little burgh of Keith, which they plundered severely, after
fighting with all who opposed them. A second commission to the Earl
of Moray (May 9) had the effect of bringing Patrick Roy Macgregor
and some others of the band into the hands of the authorities at
Edinburgh, and these men were tried in the ensuing March for
sorning, fire-raising, theft, and murder. Macgregor and one Patrick
Drummond were sentenced to be hanged, their right hands being
previously cut off. Pitmedden describes Macgregor as a short,
strong-made man, of fierce countenance, and a quick, hawk-like
eye. He bore the torture of the boots with the firmness of an Indian
savage, and was perfectly undaunted at his execution,
notwithstanding that the hangman bungled the cutting off of his
hand, for which he was next day turned out of office.—B. A.
Two other men of this band were in like manner brought to justice in
May 1668. On the 13th of July, there was an order in Council for a
reward of £150 to John Ogilvie of Milltower and two others for their
service in taking Patrick Roy Macgregor, on which occasion, it is
stated, two of them had been wounded, and one of their attendants
killed.
An unflattering light is thrown upon the internal
condition of the Highlands at this time, by a 1666.
petition from George Leslie, sheriff-clerk of
Inverness-shire, to the Privy Council (April 8, 1669), shewing that it
was not suitable for sheriff-clerks, ‘being but mean persons and not
of capacity nor trust,’ to be employed in gathering his majesty’s
taxation; and further stating, that it was particularly unsuitable for
him to have such an employment, ‘who is clerk of the dismembered
shire of Inverness, there being little or nothing left of that
sheriffdom, but the Hielands and Isles, as Lochaber, Badenoch,
Knoydart, Moidart, Glengarie, and other Hieland parts, whose
inhabitants are not legally disposed, nor willing to pay his majesty’s
dues, being infested with poverty and idleness—a task upon which
account the petitioner is not able to undergo, seeing disobedience
has been given by them to parties of his majesty’s forces of a
considerable strength.’212
In harmony with this picture is an order from the Privy Council,
August 25, 1670, proceeding on the information that ‘divers of the
inhabitants of the Highlands are in the use, when they travel through
the country, to be attended by a multitude of louss and idle persons,
not being their domestic servants,’ whereby ‘occasion is given for
stealing and sorning.’ All persons were strictly forbidden to travel or
hold meetings in the Highlands in that manner.
Old grudges amongst neighbouring clans still
occasionally worked themselves out in regular 1666.
military invasions accompanied by extensive
depredations. There was an old feud between the Clan Cameron in
Lochaber, and Struan Robertson in the upper part of Perthshire; and
on the 14th of August 1666, the renowned chief, Ewen or Evan
Cameron, came with above eighty followers, including several good
duniwassals,213 to Struan’s lands of Kinloch—quartered there for a
night upon the tenants, beat and threatened them, broke into and
searched houses, all for the purpose of laying hold of their enemy,
who, however, was out of the way. Disappointed of their primary
object, the Camerons took twenty-six head of cattle, and made off
with them to their own country. The misdeed being fully proven in
November against Ewen Cameron Locheil, Sorlie Cameron, John Oig
Cameron, and John and Duncan M‘Ewen Camerons, the lords of the
Privy Council ordained the first (who did not appear) to pay Struan a
fine of a thousand merks, and the others, who had been confined
for some time in the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, to restore to Struan the
twenty-six stolen cattle.
As might be expected, the record of the Privy Council about this time
contains many complaints from messengers-at-arms, regarding the
violent resistance they had encountered in the Highlands when
attempting to apprehend debtors or delinquents, or even to deliver
letters in form of law.
The Earl of Airth had procured letters of caption against John
Graham of Duchrae, and Thomas Graham, his son, and studied to
obtain an opportunity of putting them in execution. Learning that
Thomas Graham was to have a child baptised at the kirk of
Aberfoyle, and judging that the whole family might probably be
found together on such an occasion, he proceeded thither (February
13, 1671) with Alexander Mushet, messenger, and a strong party of
his friends and dependents, all well armed. Duchrae, though he
considered himself in possession of a sufficient protection from the
king, deemed it necessary that his christening-party should also be
well armed. Where debt and Highland blood were concerned, there
could scarcely but be bloodshed in such circumstances.
At the Bridge of Aberfoyle, the Duchrae party—including, by the way,
the minister and elders of the parish—met Alexander Mushet, who
had come forward with a few attendants, to execute the writ, while
the Earl of Airth remained with some others of his party at a little
distance. When Mushet told Duchrae to consider himself as his
prisoner, the latter took out a protection, which he held forth with
words of scornful defiance, calling out: ‘What dar ye do? This is all
your masters!’ the truth being that the paper was not a protection
from civil debt, but merely bore reference to another question

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