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MIG Welding Guide – How to MIG Weld
Last Updated September 29, 2017 by John Ward
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 Contents [show]

Introduction to MIG Welding

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 MIG welding (also known as GMAW) is a really popular type of welding that’s
frequently used for welding low-alloy steels and is well suited for welding
autobody parts and home-repair projects. It’s a simple process to learn, which is
why so many hobby welders use it as their preferred method of welding. This
MIG welding guide will teach you everything you need to know to start MIG
welding.

The MIG Process

The MIG process is an arc welding process which joins metals together by
heating them with an electric arc formed between a wire electrode and the
workpiece. The wire electrode is fed through a MIG gun which is connected to a
MIG welder and is consumed into the molten weld pool. A shielding gas is also
released through the MIG gun to protect the arc and weld puddle from being
contaminated by the atmosphere.
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Benefits of MIG Welding

1. Productivity

One of the best things about MIG welding is the increased productivity and
reduced clean up time. The time you save by not having to change rods, brush
the weld or chip away slag can approximately double your productivity.

2. Reduced Costs

You can buy a high-quality welder for under $500, then you just need to spend a
bit extra on some wire and gas and you can start welding. The increased
productivity will also lower your welding costs and allow you to get more tasks
completed, which is great if you’re running a small business.

3. Easy to Learn & Setup

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The great thing about MIG welding is that anyone can learn how to do it. This is
why it’s a good choice for home and hobby welders. Once you buy your MIG
welder you can get set up to start welding in just a few minutes. In the sections
below we’ve outlined all the information you need to get started with your welds.

4. Good Quality

MIG welding uses shielding gas to protect the arc from the atmosphere. This
results in a good clean weld where you don’t have to remove any slag and being
able to use both hands on the MIG gun helps with your control. Also, the wire
feed and voltage settings allow for increased versatility.

How to Set Up to MIG Weld

Below is an illustration of how your complete MIG setup will look. Read the
different sections to find out how to set up each component to get the best
possible results.
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 MIG Wire

You’ll need to install MIG wire into your welding machine so that it can feed
through the MIG gun and into the weld pool, this is pretty straightforward once
you get the hang of it.

Wire Sizes

Usually, your welder will come with a roll of flux cored wire, so you will probably
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 have to buy some MIG wire. When you’re MIG welding, you’ll want to choose
thicker wire for thicker metal. Also, if you want the best quality welds, you’re
better off cranking the machine up on a thinner wire than having it really low on a
thicker wire. Below are guidelines for which wire to choose, but make sure you
check the door chart on the inside or your MIG welder to see their specific
recommendations.

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0.23″ wire – This is only for your small welding machines when you’re
welding thin sheet metal from 24 gauge to around 16 gauge.
0.3″ wire– This wire will often come included with your MIG welder, this
is also a good choice for sheet metal up to around 1/8″.
0.35″ wire – This does the job up to 1/4″ so is a good choice for your
beginner welders.
0.45″ wire – This wire is best for 1/4″ and above so is more suited for
industrial welding.

Installing MIG wire

Once you have your MIG wire you will need to install it into your welder. Below are
the steps you need to follow to successfully install your wire.
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 The inside of a Hobart Handler 190

1. Open up the cabinet.

2. Make sure the cap is unscrewed from the spindle and slide the wire spool
onto the spindle. Make sure the MIG wire faces in the direction of the drive
roll and is on the bottom of the machine.
3. Flick open the pressure release. If you press the trigger on the gun with
this released, nothing will happen. You can also twist the pressure roll to
adjust the tightness.
4. Slowly feed the MIG wire through the drive roll entry making sure the wire
is not bent.
5. Put the cap on the spool of wire. Make sure the spring is in place before
you attach the cap. Is you forget the spring the spool will keep rolling and
damage the wire.
6. Take off the MIG nozzle and contact tip with some pliers.
7. Press the trigger to start feeding the wire through the gun.
8. Put the nozzle and contact tip back on.
9. Your MIG wire is set up!

Welding Gas
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If you’re MIG welding you will need to use welding gas to protect the weld pool
from the atmosphere. Below we have detailed why gas is so important and which
gas is best for your specific welding requirements.

Porosity

Porosity is just another term for getting holes in your weld. This is something you
really want to avoid because it makes the weld weak and not strong enough to
hold the metal together.

Welding gas is essential in MIG welding to protect the weld pool from being
contaminated by the gases in the atmosphere which causes porosity. If you don’t
use gas, your weld will interact with the Oxygen and Nitrogen and become
porous. This isn’t something you have to worry about when flux-cored welding,
as the wire contains a core which shields the weld puddle.

When releasing gas from your cylinder you want to make sure that there is a
good gas flow so that the weld bead is protected. However, if you release too
much gas this will reduce the temperature of the weld pool. You need to find a
balance between a high temperature and a good flow of gas. A good test for this
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 is to place your hand 3 inches from the tip of the nozzle and release the gas. If
you can just about feel the gas then you have a suitable gas flow.

Weld bead with gas turned off

Weld bead with gas flow

Gas Types

You can use different types of gas when MIG welding. The two most popular are
Carbon Dioxide and a mixture or Carbon Dioxide and Argon.

1. Pure Argon

Pure Argon should not be used to weld steel and is only suited for non-ferrous
metal such as aluminium. Argon has a “low thermal heat conductivity” which
means it creates a narrow bead. This will give you decent penetration in the
centre of the weld, but overall won’t provide enough penetration to effectively
weld a steel joint.

2. Carbon Dioxide (CO2)

Carbon dioxide is popular for MIG welding and is the low-cost alternative to an
Argon mix. The problem with CO2 is that it gives you a pretty wide arc that’s not
stable and produces a lot of spatter.
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 3. Argon Mix

A mixture of argon and carbon dioxide is my preference for MIG welding because
it produces the highest quality of weld. When you mix these gases together, you
get a much more suitably sized arc stream which gives great penetration and
minimizes spatter.

See more about MIG welding gas.

A mixture of Argon and CO2 gives a more suitably sized

arc stream

Gas Safety

You have to be really careful when handling a gas cylinder and make sure you
read all the safety information that comes with the cylinder. Gas cylinders are
seriously high pressure, and if it falls over and knocks the regulator off it will fly
across the room.

When you’re opening the cylinder to release gas, don’t stand on the same side
as the regulator, in case it flies off. Also, make sure you open the valve slowly and
carefully; if you suddenly yank it open this could release too much pressure in
one moment and it could fly off. When you set up your cylinder, make sure it’s
firmly tied to something to keep it in place. Welding safety is really important, so
make sure you follow all the guidelines on your equipment and familiarize
yourself with the welding safety basics.
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 Nozzle & Electrode Stickout

When you’ve fed the wire into the MIG gun, the shorter the electrode stickout,
the hotter the weld will be. For the optimum setup, the electrode should stick out
no more than 3/8″ from the nozzle and the minimum you should have it is 1/4″. If
you’re welding really thin metal you could have it longer than 3/8″ if you’re
concerned with welding straight through the metal.

You should also make sure that you keep the nozzle clean and remove any
spatter that sticks to it. If your nozzle has spatter stuck to it, this can reduce the
flow of gas to the weld puddle and cause porosity. To prevent spatter sticking to
your nozzle there is a range of sprays and gels you can apply to your nozzle to
stop it sticking.

Polarity

When MIG welding you need to have the MIG welder on the right polarity. For
MIG welding this is direct current electrode positive (DCEP). Any MIG/Flux-cored
welder will either run on direct current electrode negative, or direct current
electrode positive. If you’re welding flux-cored, you will need to change the
terminal to negative. This is pretty straightforward to do, although it is different
on different welders so make sure you check the instruction manual. Usually, you
will need to open the door of the MIG welder and switch over the polarity
settings in the top right corner of the machine.
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 Front of Machine

Usually, the front of your MIG welder will have a simple layout and there will be
two main dials which control the wire feed speed and the voltage settings.

Voltage

The voltage settings determine the temperature and the height and width of the
bead. For the thinnest metals, you will start on the lowest voltage setting and
move up depending on the thickness of the metal.

Wire feed speed

The wire feed speed will increase as the voltage settings increase. You’ll know
when the wire speed is set correctly as it makes a sound like you’re frying bacon.

MIG Welding Techniques

Now you’ve got your machine fully set up you’re ready to start MIG welding.
When welding there are so many different variables; the position of the joint, the
type of joint, the movement of the MIG gun, the thickness of the metal, gravity
also plays a part. Below we’ve written guides to cover all the common MIG
welding techniques.

Torch Movements

MIG welding isn’t just simply pushing across in a straight line, there are different
types of movement suited to the type of joint and metal being welded. Clean the
metal.

Forehand/Pushing

The most common welding position is a push weld in the forehand position. To
get into the correct position you need to hold the MIG gun at a 10° angle with the
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 electrode pointing in the direction you’re looking to weld. You can decrease the
angle and this will change the shape of the weld bead as show in the diagrams
below.

Once you’re in position you need to press the trigger and slowly move the MIG
gun, pushing forward in the direction of the weld. One of the positives of this
position is that you have a clear view of the weld joint. When doing this you need
to make sure the electrode is pointing forward at the leading edge of the weld.

Backhand/Pulling

When you pull the weld you use a backhand position and move the electrode
backwards towards your body. Again you use the same 10° angle and keep the
electrode on the edge of the weld puddle. One of the positives of this is that you
tend to get more penetration than when you’re pushing as the weld bead builds
up. You’ll find times where you need to use both pushing and pulling, but I feel
that there’s more chance of contaminating the weld when pulling so I tend to use
the push technique whenever possible.

Figure 1. Push Weld

Figure 2. Pull Weld
Figure 3. Push Weld with narrow bead

Types of Bead

Stringer Bead
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 A stringer bead is the most straightforward weld, where you simply push or pull
the MIG gun across a joint in a straight line. These are usually thinner welds than
weave beads but are fine for your average butt weld.

Cursive “e”

The cursive “e” weld is a popular weave bead. To perform this, weld straight
across the joint but use small circles which are linked together to form e shapes.
This gives a really cool scaled effect and can look very smooth. This is a good
choice for thick metal where you can overlap the weld bead to increase the weld
deposit.

Cursive “v”

Similar to the cursive “e”, but this time you move the electrode side to side in a
“v” shape which forms a zigzag shape. This is often used for overhead and
vertical welds where you don’t want the weld bead to drip down so you have to
angle it upwards.

Welding Positions
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 Flat Position

The flat position is the easiest position to lay your weld. In this position, your
metal will lay flat on the table and you will usually approach the weld horizontally
and above the joint.

Horizontal

Often welds will need to be done horizontally. In a horizontal weld, the weld is
performed across a horizontal surface that crosses a vertical piece of metal. This
is usually used for fillet and groove welds.

One of the main problems when performing a horizontal weld is that the weld
bead can sag down, so you need to try and push the weld up so that you get a
nice even weld. To do this, I place the nozzle at around a 45° angle to the joint
and direct the electrode forward at about a 10° angle. Then I use the cursive “e”
shape in the forehand position to push the weld up.

Vertical
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 A vertical weld is when the weld’s axis is vertical or over a 45° incline. This is
regularly used in structural welding and takes more skill than horizontal welding
because you’re fighting more against gravity.

This is called either “vertical up” or “vertical down” depending on whether you’re
welding from the top to the bottom of the joint or from the bottom to the top. For
both these types of movement, I like to oscillate the MIG gun in a “u” shape and
keep the gun pointing upwards at around 10° from the horizontal.

When performing a vertical down weld, you should keep the electrode pointing
upwards but slowly bring the electrode down the joint. This is a more suitable
choice for welding thinner metals because you’re not preheating the plate so
you’re less likely to burn through the metal.

For a vertical up weld, hold the MIG gun at the same angle but slowly push it up
the joint. This is better if you’re welding thick metal because the heat from the
gun preheats the metal above it for increased penetration.

Overhead
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 The final and hardest welding position is the overhead position. Here you are
welding a joint that is usually horizontal but you are approaching it from the
underside. This can put you in quite an awkward position and is also dangerous
because of all the sparks that will be falling on you.

The first thing to do before an overhead weld is to make sure your body and
head are fully covered. There will be sparks everywhere and you need to take
every possible precaution so that you don’t burn yourself.

When performing the weld you’re best to use either the cursive “e” or “v” motion
to stop the weld bead dripping down. You should also maintain a short arc, keep
it on low amperage if possible, and move fast! Keeping the nozzle as close as
possible to the workpiece will help prevent the puddle from dripping on you.

Types of Welding Joint

There is a huge range of different welding joints and combination joints that can
be performed. Below are the four most common joints which are the
fundamentals for all welders. If you learn these you’ll be in a great position to
perform almost any home welding task.

Butt Joint
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 A butt joint is one of the most common and simplest types of joints to learn. A
butt joint consists of two pieces metal which are parallel to each other with the
ends together. Once the edges of the metal are together you simply weld right
down the seam.

Lap Joint

A lap joint (also known as fillet joint) is formed when two pieces of metal overlap
and you weld them together. You can either perform a single or a double lap
joint. Often a single lap joint will do the job, but if you’re building something
structural that’s going to put under a lot of pressure then you’ll want to weld on
both sides to make sure it’s strong enough.

When welding a lap joint, you will find that it’s harder to get good penetration on
the bottom of the weld. This is because heat rises and is lost quicker at the
bottom of the weld. To counter this, make sure you aim your Mig gun towards the
bottom piece of metal when performing a lap weld. You can also try welding in an
‘e’ or horseshoe motion.

T Joint

A T Joint is formed when two pieces of metal intersect at a right angle to form a
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 T shape. This is another type of fillet weld. If you weld it straight across you’ll see
that the force of gravity pulls the weld bead down, so you should use a
horseshoe or ‘e’ type motion to help push the bead up when moving across the
joint. If you want a really high-quality weld you should hold the Mig gun slightly
longer at the top of the ‘e’ and move it down and up quickly. When looking at the
finished weld side on, the join shouldn’t be too concave or convex, it should be
flat.

Corner Joints

A corner joint is another very common weld which is formed when two pieces of
metal meet at a right angle to form a letter L. Corner joints can be pretty tricky
when you get below 1/8″ thick metal as the metal wants to melt away. The image
shows an outside welded corner joint, but you can also have a double welded
corner joint for extra stability.

Metal Thickness

Depending on the thickness of the metal you’re welding, you may need to bevel
the edge of the metal with a grinder to help you achieve a strong weld. When
making a bevel, you should grind a small 30° gap into the edge of the metal. This
means that when you press the two pieces of metal next to each other, you’ll
have a nice groove where you can create the weld pool. You can choose to weld
just one of the plates of metal on one side, up to both plates on both sides.

Low Thickness

For your low thickness welds of around 1/8″ and under, you won’t need to worry
about bevelling the joint. Usually, I keep the electrode close to the joint when I’m
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 welding to make sure I get good penetration, but you can keep it a little further
away on thin metal where you’re at risk of burning straight through it.

Medium Thickness

When working on a standard butt weld, if the metal you’re working on gets over
1/8″ thick, you’ll be better off bevelling the edge of one of the pieces of metal.
This will enable you to get the weld bead right down between the two metal
plates and make your weld a lot stronger than having a flat edge butt weld.

High Thickness

For even thicker pieces of metal, you can bevel both sides of the plate. This
won’t be applicable to hobby welders with 140A welding machines, but if you’re
a professional industrial welder this is a way of producing even stronger quality
welds.

Most of the people reading this will be beginner welders and won’t be welding
really thick steel, but I’ve written about it so that you have an idea for the future if
you decide to move on to thicker metals.

To perform this it’s exactly the same as the medium thickness welds, you just flip
it over and do exactly the same on the other side once you’re finished.

When you’re welding on thick metal, sometimes you’ll need to run a few passes
before the joint is secure. If you’re doing this, make sure isn’t any slag on the
weld before moving on to the next pass. If there’s any slag it will just weaken your
weld.

Below there is a guideline table for the recommended type of joint for different
thicknesses of metal.

Joint type Thickness Diagram

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 Square joint Up to 1⁄4 in

3
Single-bevel joint ⁄16–3⁄8 in

Double-bevel joint Over 3⁄8 in

Single-V joint Up to 3⁄4 in

Double-V joint Over 3⁄4 in

Conclusion

MIG welding is the best way for beginners to start welding and hopefully this
guide’s given you everything you need to know to get started on your welds.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment or send me an

email. If you liked this article – please share it by clicking one of the buttons
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7 thoughts on “MIG Welding Guide – How to MIG Weld”

Nikia Krugman
May 17, 2018 at 5:36 pm
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 This site is absolutely fabulous!

Reply

Eli Geddis
May 18, 2018 at 7:15 am

Keep up the great work guyz.

Reply

Brandon Riley
January 3, 2019 at 3:46 pm

This is AMAZING! Thanks for all the tips guys

Reply

Baker Rampling
March 8, 2019 at 12:29 pm
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 Your blog is very interactive and knowledgeable. I like it so much. I think I
need to subscribe it and make the most use of it by reading it regularly
and keeping myself updated.

Reply

Gavin W
January 9, 2020 at 5:31 pm

The guide is great but note that the MIG wire sizes are all out by 10X
(e.g. should be 0.045″ not 0.45″). 1mm is much easier.

Reply

Stork16
May 19, 2020 at 2:03 pm

Easy to understand terminology/graphics.

Great Job.

Reply
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 Hidden
December 3, 2020 at 4:48 pm

Thanks a lot guys. im in high school welding and i was confused. this
helped a !lot

Reply

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