Bulgari+Chronograph#1b

High resolution, book format.
Deconstruction
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo
Chronograph GMT
by
THE NAKED
WATCHMAKER
Images from www.thenakedwatchmaker.com

All texts, photographs and illustrations are
Copyright ©2019
The Naked Watchmaker
Edition BChGMT.1b
Formatted for use on mobile telephones,

laptops and tablets.
All rights to this publication are reserved.
It would be appreciated by the author that no part of

this book may be reproduced, copied or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopy, xerography and videography
recording, with out the permission of
The Naked Watchmaker.
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Bulgari’s fifth world record time piece, Octo Finissimo

Chronograph GMT, the slimmest timepiece of its kind
to be produced to date (2019).
Calibre BVL 318. Thickness 3.3mm and diameter
37.2mm. Power Reserve 55 hours. Automatic winding
with a peripheral platinum rotor. There are 37 jewels
set into the calibre.
Functions
The constant small seconds hand is at 9 o’clock, the minute recorder

measuring upto 30 minutes at 6 o’clock, with a central chronograph
seconds hand. The 24 hour hand set at 3 o’clock is intended for home
time. The pusher set into the left hand side of the case corrects
independently the main central hour hand to adjust for local time/
second time zone.
Case
The total case thickness 6.9mm, diameter

42mm. Made from sandblasted titanium.
The dial is sandblasted titanium. Water
resistant upto 30 meters. Bracelet
sandblasted titanium with folding clasp.
Profile image
showing the
integration of
the chronograph
pushers and
the ceramic set
winding crown into
the case.
The case back is held in place by 4 pentagonal screws
and is set with a large diameter sapphire crystal
allowing the majority of the rotor to be viewed.
Second time zone corrector pusher
The three pushers for the

chronograph and for adjusting
second time zone function.
Chronograph pushers
Recto-verso of the watch-head with the bracelet removed. The
bracelet is held between the shoulders by a long spring loaded
pin bar. The bracelet is placed into position and removed only
from the back of the watch.
Case back removed.
The bezel is removed by unscrewing the 8 stainless
steel screws which are hidden under the case back.
The underside of the
bezel is milled to allow
the rubber ‘O’ joint to
follow an irregular path
form, around the section
where the pushers are
screwed into the inner
case.
Bezel and case back removed.
The hands are removed from the dial with wide
headed (spatula-like), sharp hand removing levers.
The dial removed showing the corrector
mechanism for adjusting the second time
zone.
The dial is a friction fit onto the movement, held in place by 2
dial feet. The minute and hour hands are faceted to catch the
light and always assure clear visibility of the time.
The pushers for the GMT and chronograph
are screwed in place from the inside of the
case and have rubber seals set inside the
pusher tubes.
To remove the movement from the case the stem is
removed first, then re-assembled afterwards.
The movement comprises of 433 components.
To facilitate the assembly and disassembly of the watch, the stem is
made in two pieces and clips together. The same system was used in
the 1970’s with sports watches which prevented conventional access
to the stem for it to be removed.
The second time zone corrector mechanism.
The balance bridge is milled low around
its screw sections to allow the rotor wheel
teeth to pass above the bridge.
The large steel wheel in the centre is
the ratchet wheel which when wound,
winds the mainspring. The wheel to its
left is the last wheel in the automatic
winding train. The wheels to the right
are for manual winding.
Recto-verso of the peripheral rotor weight. Designed
to avoid adding layers on the calibre and increasing its
thickness. Whilst the outer section with platinum mass
connected to the large steel wheel is free to rotate on
ceramic balls, the central section is secured to the
movement.
Half of the rotor is platinum, the other side is hollow but covered
to maintain the concentric aesthetics of a full circular ring.
Three screws hold the rotor in place sandwiching
the central steel ring between two rubber shock
absorbers. The lower in chimney form, the higher
a conventional ring form. The screws tighten
to the central metal pipe but the rubber shock
protectors allow for a small movement in case of
impact or any variations in the concentricity of
the large steel ring.
The inner teeth of the peripheral rotor weight
mesh on the first wheel in the automatic gear
train, that can be seen at 9 o’clock on the image
below protruding out from under the decorated
bridge.
The balance assembly including
bridge. The balance wheel oscillates
at a frequency of 4 hertz, (28,800
vibrations/hour).
The view of movement with the balance removed.
The escape wheel and Swiss lever.
The escapement removed.
The upper fourth wheel which drives the chronograph
train, removed from extended pivot of the lower fourth
wheel.
The bridge removed which holds in place the majority
of the chronograph wheels.
The pillar or column-wheel is the brain of the
chronograph, indexed by the pusher at 2 o’clock on
the case to activate and deactivate the chronograph
mechanism. It will also block the return to zero pusher
if the chronograph is still running.
The chronograph system is conventional in
conception but has been rethought to reduce
the overall thickness of the movement. Still
remaining classically strong in its overall
construction. There are no elements which
have been compromised in their function and
strength due to the thickness of the calibre.
A selection of the chronograph components.
The largest lever in the chronograph
construction is the coupling clutch which
meshes with the upper third wheel and
drives the chronograph.
The hammer piece which returns to zero the chronograph wheels.
The automatic train is held primarily in place by a single bridge
which allows 6 wheels to pivot. The system is far more complex
than conventional automatics as a result of the constraints in
thickness, combined with the need for a highly efficient automatic
winding mechanism. There are multiple ceramic ball races as well
as the use of copper beryllium wheels (which are self lubricating
and complimentary to meshing with steel pinions and levers).
3 stages of dismantling
Recto-verso of the main bridge which holds in place the gear
train and provides the platform for the chronograph and most
of the automatic mechanism.
The cover plate for the setting mechanism removed.
Summary
Easily read despite the lack of contrast in
colours of the watch, due to the strong
contrasting finishes of the matt dial and the
polished chrome hands. The second time
zone corrector as with the chronograph
correctors function ergonomically.
The entire watch construction despite
its slim design felt solid and was easily
dismantled and manipulated during the
deconstruction.
The peripheral automatic rotor ran
smoothly and effectively winds the calibre.
The Octo Finissimo case and bracelet
design are unconventional, the edges on
the case are not rounded as conventionally
seen. However, the watch wears comfortably
and due to the weight and slimness of the
watch can be virtually forgotten on the wrist.

The watchmaker who assembles the calibre uses
the movement holder to test the functions of the
chronograph and the second time zone before it is
cased up.
www.thenakedwatchmaker.com

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High resolution, book format.

Images from www.thenakedwatchmaker.com

Formatted for use on mobile telephones,

All rights to this publication are reserved.

It would be appreciated by the author that no part of

Bulgari’s fifth world record time piece, Octo Finissimo

The constant small seconds hand is at 9 o’clock, the minute recorder

The total case thickness 6.9mm, diameter

The three pushers for the

Easily read despite the lack of contrast in

colours of the watch, due to the strong

contrasting finishes of the matt dial and the

polished chrome hands. The second time

zone corrector as with the chronograph

correctors function ergonomically.

The entire watch construction despite

its slim design felt solid and was easily

dismantled and manipulated during the

The peripheral automatic rotor ran

smoothly and effectively winds the calibre.

The Octo Finissimo case and bracelet

design are unconventional, the edges on

the case are not rounded as conventionally

seen. However, the watch wears comfortably

and due to the weight and slimness of the

watch can be virtually forgotten on the wrist.

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