Beading Manual

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WELCOME TO BOB'S BEADING TUTORIAL PAGES
Introduction: There are many online resources available for beading and jewelry interests
- just look at my Resources Page, check out Yahoo beading areas, or do an Alta Vista search.
But almost all of them are for commercial sites attempting to sell products or supplies. To my
knowledge, there are no instructional sites out there that actually teach jewelry or beading
techniques. So, with admittedly limited knowledge and experience in this area, I have created
a family of illustrated tutorial pages dedicated to teaching the basic techniques of beading.
More advanced training must be obtained from professional teachers and classes.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRINTING!! If you are viewing these pages using the
"frames" version (three windows with the table of contents in the left window), then you
MUST use your mouse to click on the (main) window that contains the tutorial you wish to
print before clicking on your browser's print button. If you do not do this, then either your
browser's print function will not work or you will print stuff you do not want.
These pages contain illustrated techniques for various aspects of beading:
• Tools and Supplies - Some of the things you will need to get started.
• General Hints
• Using Jewelers Wire
• Using Needles For Stringing Thread
• Bead Tips - A simple technique for terminating a strand of beads.
• Knotting Between Beads
• Attaching Clasps - Shows how to attach clasps to the ends of bead strands.
• Endless Loop Stringing - The endless loop is a continuous loop of beads without a
terminating clasp.
• Knotted Endless Loop Stringing - This technique combines both knotting between
beads and an endless loop.
• Making Beaded Ear Rings
• Making Beaded Pendants
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BEADING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Tools:
• Jeweler's Needle Nose Pliers - A plier with a very small squared-off and tapered point. Used
for numerous techniques.
• Jeweler's Round Nose Pliers - Round nose with a very fine point. Used for making wire loops,
especially in headpins for ear rings.
• Jeweler's Flat Head Pliers - For setting jump rings.
Round Nose Flat Nose Side Cutter

Pliers Pliers Pliers
• Wire Cutters - For cutting jewelers wire or clasp connectors.

• Side Cutters - Cutting plier with a vertical angle and thin cutting surface. Used for cutting knots
between pearls or beads on completed strands that must be taken apart.
• Reamers - Hand held reamer/file set. Used for widening and straightening the holes
incorrectly drilled into beads or pearls.
• Jewelers Tweezers - Extremely fine pointed tweezers. Used for picking up small objects. Also
used for finishing off knots in bead tips and between pearls/beads.
• Locking Tweezers - Many uses, including locking strands of beads or pearls when you do not
wish to use a knot in the beading thread.
• Beading Needles
Threads and Wire:
• Jeweler's Wire - Wire and crimps. And perhaps a crimping tool.

• Threading Materials:
o Silk thread for beading - comes in various sizes and colors. Used mostly for pearls or
with small mineral or gem beads with extremely small diameter holes. Note that holes
in many gem and mineral beads will be either abrasive or have a sharp edge, which
can cut or wear down silk beading thread. Never use with glass beads.
o Silk thread for English needle leader.
o Nylon or other synthetic beading thread - comes in various sizes and colors. Used for
most mineral or glass bead strands. Withstands abrasion much better than silk.
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o French Wire - The purpose of French Wire is to protect beading thread from the
abrasive effect of metallic loops or jump rings, which might otherwise eventually cut
through the beading thread and destroy a bead strand. It is a hollow tube made up
extremely narrow wire coiled together tightly, and it resembles a very small slinky with
a tube diameter of a few millimeters. French Wire comes in three sizes (small,
medium, large) and in gold and silver colors.
Supplies - Beads and Findings:

"Findings" is a trade term describing the supplies - usually metallic - that jewelers use. The term does
NOT include tools and the beads themselves. Look at the Resource Page for some sources of
supplies, and go to Marvin Schwab's Finding Page. for some picture examples. Remember that buying
locally in small lots is good for beginners or casual beaders, but when you start planning numerous
projects you will need to locate sources where you can purchase in larger lots and pay wholesale.
Findings made of base metal (silver or gold colored) are the cheapest to buy, and are great to
beginning beaders and children. For better pieces use gold filled (a layer of gold stamped - not
electroplated - over a base metal core) or sterling silver findings. The cost of sterling or gold
filled findings is similar. For the best pieces (using the finest materials) use 14K gold
findings.
IMPORTANT HEALTH NOTE: Base metal findings are made of a nickel alloy material that
can cause serious allergic reactions in some people. Especially when used with pierced-ears.
Those people sensitive to nickel alloys should use only 14K gold or high quality gold filled
findings. Surgical steel findings are also available. Some sensitive people can also tolerate
sterling silver.
Some common supplies you will need will include:
• Beads - Mineral, gemstone, metallic, ceramic, organic (amber, pearl, bone, horn), glass,
plastic. You name it, someone's got it.
• Separators - Disks or other shapes used to separate individual beads from other beads on a
strand. Usually smaller than the beads and metallic.
• Clasps and terminators:
o Bead tips - Simple metal termination devises for bead strands. Then attach the bead
tips to clasps. The simplest form of bead tip is the cup tip, with a single cup to hold the
termination knot in place.
o Clam shell bead tips - Similar to cup bead tips, but with an extra cup for hiding the
termination knot. Available in top and side styles. Usually used for larger sized
beading threads that have larger termination knots..
o Clasps - Barrel, fish hook, lobster claw, round spring ring. And jump rings to attach to
the clasps (sometimes).
Spring Lobster Barrel

Fish Hook Clasps
Ring Clasps Clasps
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• Ear Ring Supplies:
o Head pins - For making columns of beads. Regular stands of beads can also be
attached to ear posts or hoops to make ear rings.
o Studs - - Several styles are available (cup, post, ball etc). Also the pressure ear nuts
needed to hold the studs in place.
o Hoops - Several styles are available.
Ball Type Stud With French

Attachment Loop Ear Wire
• Glues:
o Jeweler's Glue - A fast drying solvent based glue with an extremely fine application
tip. Used for gluing knots and making them permanent.
o Jeweler's Epoxy - Standard (clear) fast setting 2-part epoxy. Used for permanently
setting stones on posts or pin settings.
Organizational and Design Aids:
• Design and/or Layout Boards - These boards contain channels for laying out beads during
design and measuring phases. A design board uses circular channels to approximate the
shape of a necklace while a layout board uses straight channels for laying long lines of beads.
Both boards will have tick marks for measuring the length of bead strands, and both will have
pockets for storing batches of needed findings or supplies. They come in either hard plastic
surface or flock surface - the flocked surface is preferable as it is a short knap fuzzy surface
that retards beads from bouncing or rolling, and you can stick beading needles in the flock
when you are not using it (and so you can easily find it and pick it up again later).
• Organization drawers - Obtained from any hardware store. Organize all your material - beads,
findings, whatever. Then maybe you will be able to locate your stuff when you need it. Small
(pocket sized) fishing tackle boxes make good portable bead and finding organizers.
• Small tool chest - For your tools and bulky items. And for your material square you use to
store your beading needles.
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BEADING GENERAL HINTS
Please note that all beading and stringing jobs should follow the same basic steps:
• Pearl, glass or semi-precious beads must either have a knot between them or have a
spacer/disk. Spacers or disks should be metallic (gold, silver or brass) - plastic is OK
for practise. Do not use a knot between a spacer/disk and a bead.
• Lay out your beads on a design or layout board. Look for symmetry of design and how
the final product will lie.
• Estimate string length: for standard stringing use length times 2 plus 10 inches, for
knotting use length times 4 plus 10 inches.
• Dye string if necessary. Using permanent ink chisel tip markers works well.
• Stringing material must be stretched overnight prior to final stringing - string all your
beads and add any terminal clasps or bead tips you will need for your finished design.
Hang the beads overnight. You can finish the piece or do your knotting the next day.
• The fish hook clasp technique illustrated in these pages can only be used with clasps
that have free-moving jump rings attached at both ends of the clasps - notice the jump
rings in the illustrations. If your clasp does not have jump rings, you must use bead
tips at each end of the strand and then bend the bead tip hook around the contact loop
of the clasp. The reason for this is that without free-moving terminations, every day
use of the necklace or bracelet will result in rubbing that will eventually wear out the
termination and cause the strand to fall apart.
• Final knots should be square knots made up of x3 half-hitch knots on alternating sides
of the strand of beads (flipping over the strand between each half-hitch). Cutting one
of the threads shorter than the other prior to knotting will help keep track of which
thread is which (ex. short always over long). When the knot is done, dab both sides of
the knot with jewelers glue to make permanent, let dry, then trim the knot closely.
In addition, follow these useful hints:
• Always have a good light source to work with. Straining your eyes will shorten your
beading career. I guarantee it.
• If possible, have a free-standing lamp and magnifying glass available. Very useful for
detailed jobs.
• Keep your supplies and tools organized. And use a design board. See the Tools Page.
• Work on a towel. This minimizes the beads from bouncing when you drop them - and
you will. And so maybe you will be able to prevent them from bouncing off the table
and onto the floor. And a light colored towel helps to locate smaller items again after
you have dropped them.
• You can stick your beading needles into the towel when you are not using them.
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USING JEWELER'S WIRE FOR BEADING
Jeweler's wire, also known as Tiger Tail, is made of nylon coated woven stainless steel wire
(ultra fine thickness). Coming in several thicknesses, 0.015 inch is good for bracelets while
0.018 or 0.021 inch is used for necklaces.
Wire is perhaps the easiest beading technique for beginning beaders to learn. But there are
some significant drawbacks to using this style:
• Beading wire tends to kink when flattened, leading to unsighlty hanging of bead
strands.
• Due to the stiffness of steel wire, bead strands - especially light pieces like pearls -
will not follow the body contours easily.
• Most importantly, once kinked, wire will tend to break at the kink point and the strand
will separate.
Note: I have been informed by a recent visitor that some new wire products are available that
avoid the problems associated with using Tiger Tail. These products, known as SoftFlex and
Beadalon, are apparently softer and more versatile than the "old" Tiger Tail, and they don't
do that kinking thing that is so irritating. I have not personally used these products, so I
cannot vouch for them. But it is probably worthwhile giving them a try.
The best use of wire is for stringing very heavy strands of mineral or stone beads, especially
ones with very large accent pieces. Another good use for wire beading is for bracelets made of
light weight hollow gold or silver beads, the shape of which is supposed to be maintained in a
circle and not just to hang off the wrist.
Because of the drawbacks in using wire for most jewelry purposes, the techniques shown on
Bob's Beading Techniques pages will illustrate the use of beading thread (and not wire).
However, below is the basic technique for using jeweler's wire:
1. Lay out your beads. Measure the amount of wire you need - the length of your beads
plus 12 inches - and cut the length off the wire spool.
2. String a few of the beads.
3. On one end of the strand, thread a crimp onto the wire. So that the crimp is the last
item on the strand. Then thread a clasp - the clasp is now the last item on the wire.
4. Loop the wire BACK THROUGH THE CRIMP. The clasp is now trapped in a loop
of wire.
5. Push the end of the wire back into the end bead hole and push as much of the wire
back through the bead(s) as possible.
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6. Holding the beads and clasp firmly, pull on the long end of the wire to tighten the
beads, crimp and clasp against each other.
7. When tight, use a fine tipped needle nose pliers to crush the crimp against the wire.
Make sure that the two stands of wire are NOT TOUCHING EACH OTHER during
crimp crushing stage - that they are separated from each other by as much space as
possible. This end of the strand is now locked into place. A specialized crimping tool
can be very effective for finishing the strand.
8. String the remaining beads of the strand and then terminate the remaining end with
crimps as described above. Use a fine tipped wire cutter to clip off excess wire.
USING NEEDLES
In order to string beads (or pearls), a double strand of beading thread must be threaded
through the holes of the beads. Pulling the thread through the holes is far easier - and less
damaging to the thread - than pushing, especially with the small diameter holes found in most
beads (or pearls). In order to accomplish the pulling of the beading thread, needles are used to
insert through the bead hole and then pull the beading thread afterwards. There are two basic
types of beading needles in use:
• Twisted Wire Needles - These are needles made of a loop fine grade (thin) steel wire
twisted around itself to form a needle-like assembly. The needle will have a (non-
twisted) loop at the end through which the beading thread is pushed. Then the loop is
crushed closed to hold onto the beading thread and to make it small enough to fit
through the bead holes.
• English Beading Needles - These are needles in the conventional sense, but they are
very slim and the threading hole is very narrow - much too narrow to take a
conventional beading thread. In order to pull the beading thread, a second loop of very
fine leader thread must be used:
1. Pull several inches of "A" sized silk thread (or "00" sized beading silk) through
the hole in the beading needle. Using a conventional sewing needle wire
threader devise can save time - be very careful and slow when drawing the
threading devise wire loop and silk leader thread back through the needle hole
or else the wire of the threading devise will cut the leader thread. A slow
rocking motion is very helpful when first trying to get the wire and thread back
through the beading needle hole.
Red colored silk helps seeing the leader thread during projects and helps
discriminating the leader thread from the beading thread.
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2. Once the leader thread has been successfully pulled through the needle hole,
make sure you have enough thread to form a loop approximately 4-6 inches
long. Tie the ends of the leader silk together with an overhand knot to close the
loop.
3. Line up the knot of the leader loop so that it lies in the middle of the loop - and
not at the end.
• Draw the beading thread through either the wire needle loop or the leader thread of an
English beading needle. Make sure you have enough beading thread to complete the
job.
• Make your beading thread loop by connecting the ends of the beading thread with an
overhand knot (use a figure-eight knot if you intent to use bead tips).
• Use your beading needle to inert through the beads and pull the beading thread
through to the other side.
When you are not using your needles, store them in a place where it is easy to find them
again. Needles have a nasty habit of disappearing forever - or at least it seems like that - if
you just lay them down and forget about them. I find that a square of dark colored felt or wool
material makes a fine storage place foe needles - just stick the needles in the material and you
can find them again later. And the dark color offsets the red of the attached leader thread.
NOTE: Most all of the examples on these pages will use the English bead needle for
threading.
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USING BEAD TIPS
Bead tips - also known as cup tips - are small findings used to terminate a strand of beads.
The cup-like shape of the tip body is used to hold and hide a terminating knot (also known as
attaching knots), and the extended arm of the tip is used to close around a jump ring or
connector hole in a clasp.
Clam shell bead tips are similar to regular bead (cup) tips except that they have an additional
cup attached to the main cup. Once the device has been attached the end of a strand of beads
and the terminating knot has been made permanent, then the extra cup is pressed against the
main cup to create a round bead-like assembly with the terminating knot completely hidden
inside.
Using bead tips is one of the simpler techniques in beading. It also allows some flexibility in
design because clasps can be attached to strands after the strand has been completed:
1. Prepare your needle assembly using a figure-eight knot to terminate the beading thread
loop. The figure-eight knot is preferable to the overhand knot because it makes a
bulkier knot, and so it is more difficult for the termination knot to get pulled back
through the hole in the bead tip. However, if you are sure that your knot will not get
pulled back, an overhand knot can be used because it is easier to make and lock in
place than a figure-eight knot.
Figure Eight Over Hand

Knot Knot
2. Thread a bead tip or cup onto the bead thread loop. Make sure that the rounded part of
the tip is facing inwards towards where the beads will go, and that the cup space and
the extension arm is facing outwards. Slide the tip towards the terminating knot until
the knot is snugged inside the cup.
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3. Start threading your beads.
4. When the last bead has been strung, use your needle to attach the second bead tip.
Remember that the tip should be facing in the opposite direction from the first tip.
Snug the tip against the beads.
5. Remove the needle from the beading threading by cutting the beading thread AND
NOT THE LEADER LOOP.
The remaining steps of attaching a last bead tip are similar to the steps used for
knotting between beads:
6. Make a loose figure-eight knot in the beading thread as close to the bead tip as
possible.
7. Insert your jewelers tweezers through the loop of the termination knot. While holding
onto the beading thread, press the tips of the tweezers against the inside of the bead tip
cup. This forces the last bead tip against the bead strand and tightens up the whole
assembly.
8. While holding the beading thread and tweezers, walk the knot down the tweezers until
it is as close to the bead tip and as tight as possible (starting with a large loop of thread
is important for the success of this step). Remove the tweezers.
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9. Pull the free ends of the beading thread in opposite directions to lock the knot tight.
10. Trim the loose bead thread from the knots at both ends of the strand and dab the knots
with jewelers glue. Let dry. If you are are using a bead cup, press the side cup against
the main cup to form your round termination assembly.
11. Attach a clasp or jump ring to the bead tip extension arm and - using your fine tipped
needle nose pliers - close the arm securely to finish the bead strand.
12. All attaching or terminating knots (the knots at the very ends of the strand inside the
bead tip) should be glued with a dap of jeweler's cement to lock the knot. Do not use
epoxy. Intervening knots (the knots between pearls or beads that make up the body of
the strand) should NOT be glued.
KNOTTING BETWEEN BEADS
Regardless of how you terminate your necklaces and the types of threading materials you use,
certain materials require knots between beads. Pearls and mineral/gem beads should always
have a knot between neighboring beads of the same types. When a pearl or mineral bead lies
next to a spacer disk or a bead of a different type, a knot is not required.
Before starting to knot a strand, you will have to decide how the strand is to be finished or
terminated: endless loop, bead tips, or a directly attached clasp. This decision will determine
how you start and end the knotting process.
The following knotting technique is written for right-handed people - lefties just reverse the
instructions:
1. Measure out the length of beading thread needed - bead length x4 plus 10 inches.
2. Following the process described on the Using Needles page, prepare your beading
needle assembly.
3. Now is the time to decide how the strand will be finished:
o If you will use a bead tip to terminate the strand, now is the time to start - use
the needle to thread a bead tip and slide the tip along the strand towards the
terminating (figure-eight) knot. Then thread all the remaining beads. After
threading all the beads, thread another bead tip (facing the opposite way from
the original).
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o If you will be making an endless loop, follow the instructions to form your
terminating knots and single floater. Then thread all the remaining beads.
o If you will be using a directly attached clasp with floating jump ring, follow
the instructions on the Attaching Clasps Page to thread, loop and snug the male
part of a clasp. Then thread all the remaining beads or pearls.
4. Remove the needle from the beading thread by CUTTING THE BEADING
THREAD at the very end of the loop. Immediately after removal of the needle,
terminate the end of the beading loop with an overhand knot (figure-eight knot if using
bead tips). Put your needle away for later use.
5. Hang the strand overnight to stretch the beading thread.
6. Start the knotting by sliding a bead all the way down towards to terminated end (bead
tip or endless loop) or clasp end, making sure that the beading thread is even and does
not have any kinks. Snug that bead.
7. Make an overhand knot LOOP (do not tighten it yet) between the end bead and the
rest of the beads.
One way of doing so is:
a. Holding your left hand with palm up and fingers pointing inwards and up to
form a cone-like shape.
b. Use your right hand to drop one end of the strand into the palm of your hand
(through the top of the cone - use the end with the least number of beads).
c. Drape the beading thread loop around the outside of your fingers to form a cat's
cradle-like loop of thread.
d. Use your right hand to pull the beaded end to the outside of your palm, out and
over the loop, and drop the beaded end down inside the loop (still outside your
fingers) and down back into the palm for your hand. This forms a large loose
overhand knot.
e. Using your right hand, pinch the loop of the new knot-to-be between your
thumb and pointer finger. Pull the entire assembly off your left and and onto
your working surface.
AN ILLUSTRATION OF THIS PROCEDURE IS NOT YET
AVAILABLE
8. Straighten out the strand with the knot end of the strand towards your right and the
long tail of the beading thread loop (and remaining beads) on your left.
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9. Work the loop of beading thread down towards the bead until it is a couple of inches
from the bead and about an inch in diameter.
10. Using your thumb and forefinger, pinch the loop of the knot-to-be with your left hand.
11. Using your right hand, insert the tweezers through the loop of the beading thread knot
and slide the thread leading to the bead through the open tips of the tweezers. The
purpose of this is to get the side of the tweezers - at the tips of the tweezers - to press
up against the bead with the thread between the tweezer tips. (Starting with a large
loop of thread is important for the success of this step.)
12. Pull on the thread with your left hand to snug the bead tight up against the side of the
tweezers. Then squeeze the tweezers (with your right hand) to lock the bead up against
the tweezer tips.
13. Use your left hand to work the loose overhand knot down the tweezers towards the
bead. When the knot is tight on the tweezers and snug up against the bead at the tips of
the tweezers, release the pressure on the tweezers with your right hand and remove the
tweezers from the knot.
14. Take one strand of the beading thread in each hand and pull sharply in opposite
directions. This locks the knot in place next to the bead.
15. Straighten out your strand and slide another bead down towards the knot you just
made. Snug it up against the knot.
16. Make another overhand knot loop and repeat the knotting process.
Note that although the description may seem complicated, with a little practise it will become
almost automatic and knotting work will proceed quickly.
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ATTACHING CLASPS
If your strand is not an endless loop of beads, then you will have to attach a clasp to the strand
in order for it to be worn. The clasp will usually have 2 parts - a female part and a male part.
With these types of clasps, the male part will be inserted into the female part and then it will
lock into place. Other types of clasps do not have male or female parts - they are self
contained and require a circular jump ring to be attached to the other end of the strand to hook
into.
There are a number of different types of clasps:
• Barrel - The male and female parts screw together and both parts will look similar.
• Fish Hooks - The male part is hooked into the female part and it locks in place via
spring action.
• Lobster - Self contained clasp. Hooks onto opposite jump ring.
• Spring Ring - Similar to lobster except it is round.
In order to attach a clasp to a strand of beads, the clasp will have to be separated into its 2
parts, and each part will have to attached to an end of the strand. There are essentially 2 ways
that a clasp can be attached to a strand of beads:
• Bead Tip Technique - The clasp parts can be attached to the beaded strand by
connecting them to the attachment point of a bead tip or cup. The bead tip is already
built into the bead strand. This technique is very useful for attaching clasps that do not
have a jump ring attached, such as a barrel clasp. Using this technique allows the clasp
to be attached after the bead strand has been completed.
• Fish Hook Clasp Technique - The clasp parts can be attached to the bead strand by
threading the 2 parts of the clasp into the bead strand itself - one part at each end. This
requires that attaching the clasp be part of the process of stringing the beads or pearls
themselves, and requires a little planning ahead of time. Below is an example of how
such a technique is performed (for a single strand pf beads), using a fish hook clasp for
illustration purposes.
Note that the "fish hook clasp" technique of attaching the clasp parts directly to the bead
strand can only be done if the clasp parts have free-floating jump rings attached. If your clasp
does not have jump rings, then you must use bead tips at each end of the strand and then bend
the bead tip hook around the contact loop of the clasp. The reason for this is that without free-
moving terminations, every day use of the necklace or bracelet will result in rubbing that will
eventually wear out the termination and cause the strand to fall apart.
Notes:
1. Before starting any project, make sure you have all your tools and supplies ready.
2. Make sure you have several beading needles with leader thread loop prepared (the
needle and loop pull the beading bead thread through the beads).
3. Separate and re-attach jump rings by pulling sideways only.
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1. Lay out your bead design on a design or flock board.
2. Measure out your beading thread - 2x bead length plus 10 inches.
3. Attach beading needle and leader thread through beading thread and close the beading
thread loop with an overhand knot. Make sure that the leader thread knot is in the
middle of the leader thread loop.
4. Thread all beads. Move them towards the knotted end of the bead thread loop. No
kinks or twists in the beading thread loop.
5. Use the beading needle to thread the male part of the fishhook clasp through the
jumper ring. You do this with the male end because this part of the clasp has to be the
strongest part, and the subsequent looping does not cut the beading thread.
6. Remove the beading needle by cutting the needle thread leader - at the leader thread
knot. DO NOT CUT THE BEADING THREAD. Immediately re-knot the leader
thread and put the needle away for later use.
7. Slip the loop of beading thread over the male clasp. Tighten loop over the male clasp
all the way down to the jump ring.
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8. Slide all the beads down the thread towards the male clasp. Snug them up against the
end, making sure the thread loop has stayed tight against the jump ring.
HANG THE PIECE OVER NIGHT TO STRETCH BEADING THREAD.
Now finish the female clasp end - this technique is the same as that used in endless
loop necklaces:
9. Cut away the overhand knot in the beading thread loop.

10. Separate the last 2 beads by a couple of inches. Pull one of threads back through the
last bead so that the last bead now has only a single thread running through it.
11. Slip the single thread coming through the last bead through the leader thread of a
beading needle.
12. Use the needle to run 2 loops of beading thread through the jump ring of the female
part of the clasp. Remove the needle from the beading thread - WITHOUT
CUTTING ANYTHING
13. Walk the female clasp down the thread towards the beads, leaving plenty of free
beading thread at the end.
14. Attach the free end of the beading thread through the loop of a beading needle. Use the
needle to run the beading thread back through the last bead.
15. The 2 threads now meet head-on back together and can be tied.
16. Pull on the reversed thread while holding the clasp. This draws the entire piece
together.
17. Cut one thread shorter than the other - this provides a reference for making the
finishing square knot. Tie x3 half-hitch knots while flipping the piece over between
each knot - USE SHORT OVER LONG EACH TIME. You have now locked the
female clasp.
18. Glue the knot with (a small drop) of jewellers cement. Flip over and do the other side.
Let dry. Trim thread.
19. If the strand is too tight, manipulate a little to loosen.
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ENDLESS LOOP TECHNIQUE
This techniques is for making a strand of beads that does not have a clasp or other terminating
hardware. The strand must be long enough to fit over one's head without binding, which
means that it should only be used for making strands that are 26 inches or longer.
1. Lay out your design of beads - measure length.

2. Measure beading thread - x2 length of beads plus 10 inches.
3. Attach beading needle and leader thread through beading thread and close the beading
thread loop with an overhand knot. Make sure that the leader thread knot is in the
middle of the leader thread loop.
4. Thread all beads. Move them towards the knotted end - without twists or kinks.
5. Remove the needle by CUTTING THE BEADING THREAD AT THE END OF
THE LOOP - PRESERVE THE BEADING NEEDLE THREAD LOOP.
6. Knot the end of the beading thread where you just cut (with and overhand knot) and
hang the piece over night to stretch.
7. When you are ready to finish the piece, cut away both end knots.
8. Center beads on the beading thread and bring the ends of the strand near each other.
9. At one end of the strand pull the end bead away from the neighboring bead a couple of
inches. Pull one of the threads back through the end bead so that that end bead has
only a single thread running through it.
17
10. ON THE OTHER END OF THE STRAND FROM THE SIDE YOU JUST
PULLED: Place one of the beading thread ends through the leader thread of a beading
needle.
11. Use the needle to slip the beading thread through the bead with the single thread
running through it. You will now have 2 sets of beads meeting head-to-head on
opposite sides of a central separating bead.
12. Pull on the threads to bring the bead strand together snugly.
13. On the 2 sets of head-on threads, cut one thread shorter than the other. This provides a
reference for making the finishing square knot. Tie x3 half-hitch knots while flipping
the piece over between each knot - USE SHORT OVER LONG EACH TIME. You
have now locked the knots.
14. Glue the knots with (a small drop) of jewellers cement. Flip over and do the other side.
18
KNOTTED ENDLESS LOOP TECHNIQUE
This technique is for stringing an endless loop using knots between each bead. Used mostly
for pearl necklaces - the strand must be long enough to fit over one's head without binding,
which means that it should only be used for making strands that are 26 inches or longer.
1. Measure out the length of beading thread needed - bead length x4 plus 10 inches.
2. Attach beading needle and leader thread. Terminate beading loop with an overhand
knot.
3. Thread all the beads or pearls.
4. Remove the bead needle by cutting the beading thread at the end of the loop. DO
NOT CUT THE NEEDLE LEADER THREAD.
5. Place an overhand knot at the free ends of the beading thread to complete the loop.
6. Hang the piece to stretch the bead thread overnight.
7. Slide a bead towards one end of the strand. Make a (tight and locked) overhand knot
several inches from the end of the loop. This traps the end bead within several inches
of double stranded bead thread - this bead that has several inches of thread to slide
across is called a FLOATER.
8. Knot all the remaining beads EXCEPT THE LAST 2. Do not knot these last 2 beads
because they will become double floaters.
9. Once all the beads have been knotted, and you have the terminal double floaters
attached, remove the terminal knot near the end of the original single floater.
10. Bring the 2 ends of the strands near each other.
19
11. On the DOUBLE FLOATER SIDE OF THE STRAND, pull one of the threads back
through the terminal bead leaving the terminal bead with a single thread running
through it.
12. Using a beading needle, run one of the threads from the single floater side of the
strand through the terminal bead on the double floater end. You will now have 2 sets
of beads meeting head-to-head on opposite sides of a central separating bead.
13. Pull on the threads to bring the bead strand together snugly.
14. On the 2 sets of head-on threads, cut one thread shorter than the other. This provides a
reference for making the finishing square knot. Tie x3 half-hitch knots while flipping
the piece over between each knot - USE SHORT OVER LONG EACH TIME. You
have now locked the knots.
15. Glue the knots with (a small drop) of jewellers cement. Flip over and do the other side.
20
MAKING BEADED EAR RINGS
Earings made from beads can be made in several different ways:
• Using head pins.

• Making circular threaded bead strands.
• Making vertical threaded bead strands.
• Studs.
Using Headpins:
A head pin is a thin metal rod with a cap at the base. It resembles a sewing pin that has a blunt tip.
They come is several lengths and widths, and are available in base metal, silver, gold filled, and 14K
gold. The base metal variety tends to be thicker then the gold filled, silver or 14K gold types.
In order to use head pins, you will need a wire cutter and a fine-tipped round nosed jeweler's
pliers.
1. Choose the type of head pin you will use.

2. Thread some beads onto the pin - some beads (especially pearls) may need to have their
holes widened using a bead reamer.
3. Using the wire cutter, cut of excess head pin material leaving about 1/2 inch of pin.
21
4. Using tip of your round nosed pliers, bend the top head pin material perpendicular to the ear
ring.
5. Using a thicker part of your round nosed pliers, grasp the head pin near the top bead and roll
the head pin into a loop. You may have to finish the loop using the fine tip of the pliers.
Note: Making a well formed loop takes some practise, so start with the inexpensive
base metal head pins and work on your technique.
6. Attach the newly formed loop to the jump ring or loop of an ear ring loop or post.
Ear Rings Using Threaded Beads - Circular and Vertical

You can make ear rings using the same stringing techniques described in this tutorials for necklaces -
the endless loop, bead tips, and knotted loops or strands. Simply make your beaded strands and
attach - either by jump ring or directly - to the connector hole found on all hoop type ear ring findings.
Studs
A stud is an ear ring for pierced ears that (instead of a connector hole or jump ring) has either a cup or
a small post for attaching a single bead or pearl, or a cabachon (a flat piece of gem stone or mineral).
To use a stud, you must obtain half-drilled beads or pearls - these are beads whose whole is drilled
only half way through the bead. Simply dab a little jewelers epoxy on the tip of the post and slide the
half drilled bead or pearl onto the post and seat. The epoxy will lock the bead or pearl permanently
into place.
For cups, simply glue a bead or pearl in place.
22
MAKING BEADED PENDANTS
Pendants are large accent beads (or other large ornaments) that hang from necklaces. They
can be made of a single large bead (mineral, metal, ceramic etc), or they can be made up of an
assembly of several smaller beads attached to each other.
There are several ways to attach pendants or pendant assemblies to a necklace. Regardless of
the method you use, care must be taken to plan the pendant assembly properly ahead of time,
taking into account several factors:
A. Length - Pendant accent pieces tend to be large and take up significant space on the
wearer's chest. Therefore, when planning a pendant necklace, factoring in the size of
the pendant accent piece or assembly must be done. For example, supposing the client
wishes a medium length pendant necklace that will hang to the sternum area. The
length of a standard bead strand to meet this sizing requirement might normally be 26
inches. However, if the pendant or pendant assembly will be 3 inches vertically, then
the length of the regular necklace might have to be shortened to approximately 20 or
22 inches.
B. Thread Length - Unlike making a normal bead strand, making a pendant piece requires
interrupting the bead strand in the middle for the purpose of attaching the pendant
bead or assembly. This means that half the beads must be strung prior to stringing the
pendant, and then the remaining beads are strung. Care must be taken to ensure that
there is sufficient thread on both sides of the pendant to string all the beads and the
clasp (if any). This is especially important if the beads are going to be knotted.
C. Bead Sizing - As the bead strand approaches the pendant bead or assembly (from both
sides), it is usually better to have a few beads of decreasing size on each size of the
pendant. This provides a visual offset for the pendant, and also helps the pendant to
hang properly.
D. French Wire - The purpose of French Wire is to protect beading thread from the
abrasive effect of metallic loops or jump rings, which might otherwise eventually cut
through the beading thread and destroy a bead strand. To use, string the beads leading
up to the pendant. Then, using your beading needle, the beading thread is drawn
through a short length (maybe ¼ to ½ inch) of French Wire, and the loop or jump ring
of the pendant is positioned over the French Wire. The the remaining beads are then
strung and the strand finished normally. The loop of the pendant will hang from the
(French Wire) protected part of the strand.
23
There are several methods of attaching or including pendants to beaded strands:
1. Loop Screws - If the top of the pendant has a vertical hole drilled into it, then a loop
can be attached to the pendant by screwing in and epoxying a screw eye into the hole.
A screw eye is a finding that consists of a small screw with a loop attached at the head.
Screw eye findings come in all shapes, metals and sizes. Remember - a screw eye is
only used for pendants with a small hole drilled vertically into the top of the pendant.
2. Bales - If the pendant has a hole drilled through the side, and if the hole is drilled near
the edge of the pendant, then it is possible to attach a bale finding to the pendant and
so attach a loop. Bales are small metallic clamp-like findings with a loop at one end
and a short post at the other. The bale is spread apart, the post is inserted into the hole
in the pendant, and the bale is then squeezed closed, locking the pendant to the bale.
The necklace is then completed normally using the loop that is part of the bale.
3. Looping Thread - Pendants with holes drilled through from the side can be attached by
looping beading thread through the hole and then around the body of the bead. This
method of attachment is similar to the looping method illustrated in the Fish Hook
Clasp attachment tutorial. Essentially, you use your beading needle to run the beading
thread back to front through the hole in the pendant. Once through, use your finger to
press a loop of beading thread onto the front of the bead. Then thread the needle back
through the hole towards the back of the bead (be careful not to split the thread). Once
through, lengthen the loop of thread at the front of the pendant and loop the thread
around the body of the pendant. Snug the thread.
24
One variation on this method is used with donut beads - round circular beads
with a very large circular opening in the middle. At the middle of the regular
strand of beads, string several inches of very small metallic beads and then
continue on to finish the regular bead strand. Once the strand of beads is
finished, return to the middle of the bead strand and push the center of the part
made up of the small metallic beads through the large central hole in the donut
bead. Then loop this part around the body of the donut bead and snug.
4. Beaded Pendant Assemblies - Pendant assemblies are groups of beads threaded or

chained togther into a pendant unit that is then attached to a necklace strand. There are
many ways of making such assemblies, but one method is to use the "Threaded Back"
method:
a. Using a needle and thread assembly, thread half the beads required for the
normal bead strand. After threading these beads, add a few beads of decreasing
sizes (perhaps ending with a metallic spacer bead).
b. Thread all the pendant beads in the vertical order in which they will hang.
c. Thread a "turn around bead", usually a very small metallic bead.
d. Use the needle to thread back through the (already threaded) pendant beads.
DO NOT THREAD BACK THROUGH THE "TURN AROUND BEAD".
NOTE: Because the pendant beads will be assembled using double threads,
the holes in the beads must be wide enough to handle this thickness. Test the
width of the holes in the pendant beads prior to starting the project.
e. Once the pendant beads have been reverse threaded, start stringing the
remaining beads of the necklace in the reverse order of the first half. Finish
normally.
25
http://guidetobeadwork.com/
Guide To Beadwork
A BEADED JEWELRY PRIMER
TABLE of CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1 - Basic Beading

• INTRODUCTION
• Stitch Names
• SUPPLIES
• Beads
• Thread
• Needles
• Findings
• Other Supplies
• BASIC TECHNIQUES
• Thread Tension
• Starting
• Finishing
• Adding a New Thread
• ENVIRONMENT
CHAPTER 2 - Fringe
• Fringe Design
• Basic Techniques
• U-Shaped Loop
• Straight Fringe
• Circle Fringe
• Looped Fringe
• Graduated Fringe
• V-Shaped Fringe
• Angled Fringe
26
Glossary - drawings of different findings.
CHAPTER 3 - Chevron Chain
CHAPTER 4 - Daisy Chain
CHAPTER 5 - Flower Stitch (pattern pages included)
CHAPTER 6 - Twill Stitch (pattern pages included)
CHAPTER 7 - Gourd Stitch (pattern page included)
CHAPTER 8 - Brick Stitch (pattern pages included)
CHAPTER 9 - Lace Stitch (pattern page included)
27
CHAPTER 1
BASIC BEADING
Introduction
Welcome to the beading world. Beads are a wonderful medium for creating many
different kinds of jewelry ranging from earrings to complicated collars. Every piece
is unique. Think of your different colored hanks of beads as tubes of oil paint and
yourself as an artist in front of an empty canvas. A piece of yourself goes into every
one of your creations.
Each of the separate chapters presented on this web site is designed to stand alone.
This first chapter covers basic beading techniques and supplies. If this is your first
experience with beadwork you should start here. The second chapter shows six
different techniques for adding fringe. Chapters Three through Nine contain
detailed instructions for seven different specific beaded jewelry stitches.
Although everybody differs in how hard they find a particular stitch to do, the
stitches have been ordered loosely from easier (Chevron and Daisy chain) to harder
(Gourd stitch and Lace stitch).
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you read a chapter ALL THE WAY THROUGH
before you actually try out the stitch. This will help you to understand and visualize
the stitch. Using contrasting bead colors for your first attempt at the stitch will also
help with your visualization.
28
Stitch names
Various cultures have utilized the stitches shown on this web site. Whether each
stitch was created independently in these different cultures or not is a matter of
debate for scholars and historians. We do not address these issues here. We
acknowledge that names are considered very important and powerful in many
cultures.
Our goal is to teach people how to create these stitches. What they are called is not
an issue for us. We have tried to choose names that are recognized, logical and
descriptive when possible, yet not culturally based. Therefore, you may recognize
stitches shown here but know them under a different name.
To avoid potential confusion, we have listed alternate names that we are aware of
in the introduction for each stitch. These name lists should not be considered
complete nor definitive. They are included primarily as a potential aid to users
looking for a particular stitch by the name they know for it.
Beads
Beads come in a variety of shapes, colors, and sizes. Sizes can range from 8o to 25o
( o is pronounced "aught"). The larger the number, the smaller the bead size. In this
age of technology you can get any color or hue of the spectrum, especially in the
smaller sizes. This can be useful in larger projects or where you would like the
color change to be subtle. Smaller beads allow you to go into more detail in your
designs.
Beads come in various types and shapes. Bugle beads are cylindrical in shape and
range from 3/8 of an inch long to 2 inches. These beads are very useful for brick-
laying stitches, fringes, and a variety of other stitches. Seed beads come in many
different varieties. As the name implies they are round like most seeds and some
are actually made by drilling a hole through a seed. Nowadays, they are made of
many different materials, but usually out of glass. These are just two of the more
common types of bead.
Make sure you buy enough beads to finish the project that you are working on. Just
like yarn and thread, the dye lots change to varying degrees and the shade of blue
you bought one week may not be the same the next time you go. How many is
enough? When you buy beads, buy two or three hanks of the same color. A hank
has 8 to 12 strands on it. A strand is a single string of beads, 12 to 24 inches long.
The number of beads per inch on a strand will vary depending on the size of the
beads. Never buy beads in tubes if you can help it. Tubes cost more and have fewer
beads than a full hank. If you do run short of a color, string up the color you need
29
and take it with you when making the rounds to the different bead shops.
Sometimes you will get lucky.
Thrift shops and garage sales are also great places to find beads. You can find lots
of good antique beads that way.
Thread
Thread comes in a variety of sizes and waxed or unwaxed. Waxed thread is

recommended because it makes working the beads easier. You can buy beeswax
and a beeswax holder and wax the thread yourself, but buying the thread already
waxed is easier and cheaper in the long run.
Thread comes in sizes: AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, F, FF, G. The higher the letter in
the alphabet, the thicker the thread. Triple A is very thin. It is good for use on the
smaller beads. Size G is really thick, good for use on the larger beads. Often you
will want a thinner thread because of the number of times the thread must pass
through the beads.
Needles
Beading needles come in sizes 10 through 16. The larger the number the thinner the
needle. These are the gauges you should work with. Companies gauge their needles
differently, so when you buy your beads, you should actually pass the needle
through a bead to make sure it will work.
The best way to thread the thinner needles is to cut the thread at an angle, then wet
the angled end of the thread and the eye of the needle. Use very good light. The
best time to thread needles is during the day when the sun is out. Thread all your
needles at the same time and stick them in a pin cushion to use later on.
Findings
What are findings? They are: bead tips, barrel clasps, hook and eye clasps, spring-
rings, jump-ring clasps, and earring hooks. These are attached to your work so that
it can be worn. To attach a clasp to my work, you should usually attach a bead tip
to your piece first. The clasp can be added to the bead tip later with a pair of pliers.
To attach a bead tip to your piece, position the needle in the main body where you
want the clasp to go. Pick up a bead on the needle and pass the needle through the
30
bottom of the bead tip (the hook should be on top). Pick up another bead. Pass the
needle through the top of the bead tip, down through the bead and into the main
body of the piece. Remember, this is where your piece will take the most stress, so
pass the needle back and forth a few times.
Findings can be found in most any bead shop where you buy your beads. Try to get
bead tips and attach your clasps to them. It looks more professional that way. Add a
drop of jeweler's glue to the bead resting inside the bead tip for extra holding
strength.
Other supplies
SUPER-GLUE
This is useful in securing bead tips (see Findings). It should be used as sparingly as
possible. Do NOT use Krazy-Glue as it is too runny. A good jeweler's glue, which
can be found at most craft stores, is best.
GRAPH PAPER
Use graph paper to work out some of your more complicated designs, especially
fringe. My theory is if it can be drawn, it can be done in beadwork. Scientific graph
paper works very well for this.
COLORED PENCILS
These are useful with graph paper for working out designs. Try to get a wide range
of colors.
SMALL JARS and CONTAINERS

Useful for holding beads, thread, findings, and needles.
DOUBLE-STICK TAPE
Can be purchased in any five and dime store, or craft store. It is useful for holding
your work to the table when you are doing fringe work.
SMALL TRAY
Line the tray with either velours or velvet to help avoid chasing runaway beads.
NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS
These are very handy to have around for attaching findings. They can reach into a
piece and grab a very short thread end. Although I don't recommend it, they can
also be used to break a bead for removal from a piece.
SCISSORS
These should be small and sharp. Manicure scissors work very well.
31
TWEEZERS
These are optional. If you don't have small slender fingers, you may find them
handy for picking up beads.
NEEDLE THREADER
This item works fine for the larger needles but is pretty useless for the smaller ones.
It is not really necessary.
MAGNIFYING DESK LAMP

This is a nice item to have if its possible. Get the kind that mounts on the side of
the table and has an adjustable arm if you can.
Thread tension
Thread tension is something that should be discussed. This is how hard you pull on
the thread after passing the needle through a bead that is already attached to the
piece you are working on. It can be very frustrating to a new bead artist. The only
way to learn it is by trial and error. Most likely, your first piece won't look like you
want it to because it is either too tight or too loose. Stick with it. Thread tension is
something that is developed over time and requires patience. Just keep at it.
Remember that the tension for each piece is different.
Starting – step 1
Pick up a bead on the needle. Bring the bead down the

thread, leaving 6-8 inches of thread as a tail. Bring the
needle up through the bottom or tail end of the bead. When
doing this, DO NOT split the thread as it will be removed
later (in Step 2). It is important not to split the thread unless
Figure 1.7.1
needed, anyway. This first bead will be your anchor bead.
Continue with the stitch.
32
Starting - step 2
When you are an inch or so into the

piece, take another needle and pull on
the outer thread of your anchor bead.
The thread should slip right out. If not,
keep practicing and continue on with
the next step as if the thread had
slipped out easily.
Figure 1.7.2
Starting – step 3
Thread the tail end of the thread you just

pulled out onto a needle that is smaller
than the one you were using when you
started.
Figure 1.7.3
33
Starting – step 4
Pass the needle back up the piece

through one or more beads at a time.
Then change directions so that the
thread zig-zags back through your
work. Complete this action five or six
times, then cut the thread close to the
bead it is emerging from.
Figure 1.7.4
Finishing – step 1
Finishing involves virtually the same

process as Starting. This is really the best
method of starting and finishing because
there are no unsightly burned ends or knots
and the piece can find its own natural
tension since there are no balls or knots
pulling on the first and last beads.
After you have strung the last bead of the

Figure 1.8.1
stitch, you will have a length of thread
emerging from the last bead, still on the needle.
Finishing – step 2
Pass the needle back up the piece

through one or more beads at a time.
Then change directions so that the
thread zig-zags back through your work.
Complete this action five or six times,
then cut the thread close to the bead it is
emerging from.
Figure 1.8.2
34
Adding New Thread – step 1
This is another handy technique which utilizes the same zig-zag technique
described in the Starting and Finishing sections.
Stop beading when you get down to about six inches of thread. Cut another length
of thread. If you have more than one needle, use a second needle with the new
piece of thread. If you are down to your last needle you can use the same one but
you will have to rethread it more often.
Starting at the point where the current

thread is emerging from the piece,
work your way back through the
completed portion of the piece with
the new needle and thread using the
zig-zag method described in the
Starting and Finishing sections. Be
sure to leave a long tail as it will
become the new thread.
Figure 1.9.2
Continue working the stitch with the new

needle and thread. Work an inch or so,
then pick up the old needle and thread.
Figure 1.9.3
35
Now work in a zig-zag fashion through

the new portion of the piece with the
old needle and thread. This also helps
strengthen your piece. Now, cut the old
thread as close to the bead as possible.
Figure 1.9.4
Environment
Good light in your work area is extremely important. Daylight hours are best.
During the dark hours use a very good light. Magnifying lamps work quite well
when you are beading at night.
Last but not least, remember to take frequent breaks when you are working with
your beads. Stretch, take a walk and look at the scenery. Otherwise you'll get
cramped up, and it won't be fun any more.
Above all, HAVE FUN WITH IT !
36
CHAPTER 2
FRINGEWORK
Fringe can be the most important part of your piece. It can make
or break it. The use of graph paper can be helpful in visualizing
and laying out your design ideas.
The fringe can consist of seed beads and/or bugle beads. The use
of bugle beads can be a real eye-catcher in earrings and neck-
chest pieces. The fringe is an integral part of the Gourd stitch
(Chapter 8). The use of porcupine quills can be very eye-
catching.
Design
Let's talk a little about designing the fringe and how to work it so that it looks like
what you have on graph paper. Sometimes that doesn't happen because when you
buy a hank of beads, you will often get some misshapen beads in with the good
ones. Therefore, before you start, make sure you remove all the warped and
misshapen beads so that all of your beads are the same size.
Use colored pencils to help you visualize the colors in your design. Anything can
be accomplished with careful planning and plotting on paper in advance.
Starting
I usually anchor my piece to the surface of the work table with double-stick tape,
leaving enough room to work the fringe comfortably. If I am adding fringe to an
earring, I just hold it in my hand.
37
U-shaped loop
For this fringe an even number of beads on the outer

edge of the main body are needed. Attach the thread to
the main body of the piece, working your way to the
outer edge bead. Pick up the number of beads desired
for the outer (and longest) loop. Pass the needle up
through the opposite outer edge bead on the main body
of the piece. Now pass the needle down through the
adjacent outer edge bead so that it is in position to start
the next loop. Continue in this manner until finished
with the two center beads on the outer edge of the main
piece. Work the needle back up through the main body Figure 2.1
of the piece, ending next to the darkest bead.
Straight fringe
Pick up 30-40 beads with the needle for a long

fringe (less for a shorter one). Pass the needle
back up through all the beads except for the last
one that was picked up. Now pass the needle back
up through the outer edge bead of the main body
and down through the next bead so that the needle
is in position to start the next strand. Keep
repeating this process until finished adding
strands. Work the needle back up through the
main body of the piece, ending next to the darkest
bead.
Figure 2.2
38
Circle fringe
Attach the thread to the main body of

the piece. Work your way to the outer
edge bead. Pick up the number of beads
desired for length. Now pick up 6 to 8
beads (more for a larger circle) and pass
the needle back up through the others
and back up through the first outer edge
bead so that the needle is in position for
the next strand. Keep repeating this step
until finished. Work the needle back up
through the main body of the piece
ending next to the darkest bead.
Figure 2.3
Looped fringe
Attach the thread to the main body of the piece working your
way to the outer edge bead. Pick up the number of beads
desired. Pass the needle back up through the same outer edge
bead of the main body. Now pass the needle down through the
next outer edge bead so that the needle is in position for the
next looped strand. Continue in this manner until finished.
Work the needle back up through the main body of the piece
ending next to the darkest bead.
Figure 2.4
39
Graduated fringe
This technique can produce a very pleasing effect. Graduated fringe types include
V-shaped and Angled. This extra embellishment can be incorporated into all of the
styles described in previous sections of this chapter (with the exception of the U-
shaped fringe). To create a graduated fringe, one extra bead (or more) is added to
each strand so that the second strand is slightly longer than the first. When two or
more beads are added at a time, the effect can be quite dramatic.
V-shaped fringe
To create a V-shaped graduated fringe, an odd number of beads on

the outer edge of the main body of the piece is necessary. After the
middle fringe strand has been attached, start decreasing the number
of beads for each new strand by the same amount as you were
adding to each new strand up to and including the middle strand.
Figure 2.5.1
Angled fringe
For a right-angle or left-angle graduated fringe, add or subtract the

extra beads for each consecutive strand but don't change after the
middle strand as in the V-shaped graduated fringe. For this style, the
number of beads on the outer edge of the main body ofthe piece can
be either even or odd.
Figure 2.5.2
40
BEADING GLOSSARY
Aught
This is a term used to designate bead sizes. It is preceded by a number ranging from
8 to 25. The symbol for aught is the degree sign [o].
The larger the number, the smaller the bead size. The term 25o (twenty-five aught)
would indicate the smallest size of bead available.
Seed beads are also commonly measured in millimeters and sometimes even inch
fractions.
Barrel clasp
A barrel clasp consists of two halves which screw together forming

a barrel shape. Each half is usually attached to a bead tip.
BARREL CLASP
Bead
A bead can be any object with a hole drilled through it. There are many different
sizes and shapes of beads and they are made from many different materials. Small
drilled semi-precious stones are often used as beads by beaded jewelry artists See
specific listings in the glossary index for more in-depth descriptions of different
kinds of beads.
41
Bead size
Beads come in a variety of sizes ranging from 8o to 25o ( o is pronounced "aught").

The larger the number, the smaller the bead size. Bugle beads are cylindrical in
shape and range from 3/8 of an inch long to 2 inches.
Seed beads are also commonly measured in millimeters and sometimes even inch
fractions.
Bead tip
Using bead tips is accepted as a professional method of starting

and finishing a bracelet, necklace or anklet. It gives added
strength to the main piece and puts less stress on the clasp. After SINGLE
the bead tip has been attached, the clasp is then attached to the BEAD TIP
hook on the bead tip and the hook is bent shut. DOUBLE BEAD TIP
Brick laying
Brick-laying is a style of beading in which the rows of beads are staggered just like
bricks, hence the term. It is the main technique used in the Brick stitch.
Bugle bead
Bugle beads have a cylindrical or tube-like shape. They are one of the most
common types of bead. They range in length from 3/8 of an inch to 2 inches. They
are used primarily in brick-laying stitches and fringes. They come in many different
colors and are made from various materials, the most common being glass and
metal.
42
Clasp
There are many kinds of clasps. They fall into the category of findings. They
usually consist of two metal pieces which are attached to either end of the
beadwork. They may then be attached to or detached from each other so the piece
may be worn. Some of the types include barrel, hook and eye, jump-ring and
spring-ring clasps. See individual listings for more detailed descriptions.
Clay, polymer
Originated for field use by the German military for creation of quick repacement
parts, this relatively soft clay bakes into durable plastic in a regular oven. When the
clay is heated, it becomes a straight molecular chain (hard) polymer, stable and safe
for for decor and normal wear, though NOT recommended for containment of
potable water or food stuffs.
Expert hand-blending, cutting, forming, and reduction techniques are integrated

using 'raw' polymer clay, forming abstract or depictional art 'canes', slices from
which are then applied to beads, giftware, etc.
Double stick tape
This is simply tape that is sticky on both sides. It is used to hold your piece to the
table while doing other work on it such as adding fringe or findings.
Earing hook
Earring hooks are a type of finding and are

available in two styles; earwire and shepherd's
hooks.
SHEPHERD'S EARWIRE FANCY

HOOK SHEPHERD'S
HOOK
43
Hook and eye clasp
This type of finding makes the piece easy to clasp and

unclasp but also makes it easy to fall off your wrist or
ankle. They are usually attached with bead tips. HOOK and EYE CLASP
Findings
Findings are the metal pieces which are attached to the beadwork so that it can be
fastened and worn. These include bead tips, barrel clasps, hook-and-eye clasps,
spring-ring clasps, jump-ring clasps, and earring hooks. See individual listings for
more detailed descriptions.
Fringe
Fringe is a series of beaded strings which hang from the edge of

a piece of beadwork intended to enhance the design. The fringe
can be any length. The length can vary from string to string,
giving a graduated effect, or remain consistent for straight fringe.
It may be incorporated into many different stitch designs.
Detailed explanations of how to incorporate different types of
fringe into your designs can be found in Chapter 2.
(U-SHAPED FRINGE)
Glue
The best kind of glue to use is super-glue (a.k.a. jeweler's glue). Avoid using
Krazy-glue
44
Graph paper
This is paper with evenly spaced horizontal and verticle lines forming a grid pattern
over the whole sheet. It is useful in working out complicated designs, especially
fringe designs.
Hank
Hank is a term which describes a quantity of beads. There are usually 8 to 12

individual strands on a hank of beads.
Jeweler's glue
Jewelers' glue (a.k.a Super-glue) is a very strong glue which is useful in attaching
findings more securely to the beadwork. Use it sparingly.
Jump ring clasp
A jump-ring clasp is simply a ring of metal. It is a type of finding

that is generally used along with a spring-ring to form a clasp for
necklaces, bracelets and anklets. It is usually attached with a bead JUMP-RING CLASP
tip.
Krazy glue
Avoid this type of glue as it is too runny. Instead, use jewelers' glue (a.k.a. Super-
glue).
45
Needle
Beading needles range in size from #10 (thickest) through #16 (thinnest). Different
companies guage their needles differently so it is a good idea to take the beads you
will be using along with you when you buy needles and actually pass one of the
needles through a bead to make sure the needle is slender enough.
Needle threader
A needle threader is a device which can be purchased at many craft stores which
sell beads and needles. It is useful for the larger needle sizes but doesn't work well
(if at all) for the smaller sizes.
Polymer clay
Originated for field use by the German military for creation of quick repacement
parts, this relatively soft clay bakes into durable plastic in a regular oven. When the
clay is heated, it becomes a straight molecular chain (hard) polymer, stable and safe
for for decor and normal wear, though NOT recommended for containment of
potable water or food stuffs.
Expert hand-blending, cutting, forming, and reduction techniques are integrated

using 'raw' polymer clay, forming abstract or depictional art 'canes', slices from
which are then applied to beads, giftware, etc.
Seed bead
Seed beads are the most common type of beads and there are numerous sizes and
types. They are generally spherical in shape. In the past, beads were made by
drilling holes through various types of seeds. This is where the name comes from.
46
Shepher's hook
Earring hooks are a type of finding and are

available in two styles; earwire and shepherd's
hooks.
SHEPHERD'S EARWIRE FANCY

HOOK SHEPHERD'S
HOOK
Spring ring clasp
The spring-ring clasp is a type of finding that is generally used

along with a jump-ring to form a clasp for necklaces, bracelets
and anklets. It is usually attached with a bead tip.
SPRING-RING CLASP
Strand
A strand is the term for a single string of beads. It is usually 8 to 12 inches long.
The number of beads on a strand will vary according to the size of the beads. There
are 8 to 12 strands on a full hank of beads which is usually the quantity by which
they are sold.
Super glue
Jewelers' glue (a.k.a Super-glue) is a very strong glue which is useful in attaching
findings more securely to the beadwork. Use it sparingly.
47
Tape, double stick
This is simply tape that is sticky on both sides. It is used to hold your piece to the
table while doing other work on it such as adding fringe or findings.
Thread
Thread is what holds a beadwork piece together. It comes in a variety of

thicknesses from size AAA (which is the thinnest) to size G (the thickest). The
appropriate thread size for a given piece will depend on the size of the beads being
used and the number of times the thread must pass through a bead. Thread can be
bought waxed or unwaxed.
Threader
A needle threader is a device which can be purchased at many craft stores which
sell beads and needles. It is useful for the larger needle sizes but doesn't work well
(if at all) for the smaller sizes.
48
CHAPTER 3
CHEVRON CHAIN
The Chevron Chain stitch can be used for bracelets,

anklets, necklaces and chokers. The tension for this
stitch should be moderately tight. Remember that
getting the thread tension right is something that must
be developed with time and practice. Tension is
particularly critical with this stitch so it may take a few attempts before you find the
right feel for it. Don't get discouraged if it doesn't come out right the first time.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Zig-zag stitch
Pick up a light bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the thread, leaving six to
eight inches of thread as a tail. Now pass the needle up through the bottom of the
bead. Try not to split the thread as it will be removed later.
See Starting in Chapter One for detailed explanations of this process.
Figure 3.1
Pick up six light beads (#2 through #7) and three dark
beads (#8 through #10) with the needle.
Figure 3.2
49
Pass the needle through the first four light beads (#1
through #4) a second time and pull the thread tight to
form an angle.
Figure 3.3
Pick up three dark beads (#11, #12 and #13), and three
light beads (#14, #15 and #16) on the needle.
Figure 3.4
Pass the needle through bead #7 and pull the thread tight.
Figure 3.5
50
Pick up three more dark beads (#17, #18 and #19) and
three more light beads (#20, #21 and #22) on the
needle.
Figure 3.6
Pass the needle through bead #14 and pull the thread
tight.
Figure 3.7
51
Pick up three more dark beads (#23, #24 and #25) and
three more light beads (#26, #27 and #28) on the needle.
Figure 3.8
Pass the needle through bead #20 and pull the thread
tight.
Figure 3.9
52
Pick up three more dark beads (#29, #30 and 31) and
three more light beads (#32, #33 and #34) on the
needle.
Figure 3.10
Pass the needle through bead #26 and pull

the thread tight.
Figure 3.11
53
Pick up three more dark beads
(#35, #36 and #37) and three more
light beads (#38, #39 and #40) on
the needle.
Figure 3.12
Pass the needle through bead #32 and

pull the thread tight.
Figure 3.13
Pick up three more dark

beads (#41, #42 and #43) and
three more light beads (#44,
#45 and #46) on the needle.
Figure 3.14
54
Pass the needle through bead #38
and pull the thread tight.
Figure 3.15
You may continue in this manner until your chain reaches the desired length. Then
cut the thread (if necessary) leaving six to eight inches. Work the tail back into the
chain using the zig-zag method. Fringe may now be added to one of the outer edges
(consisting of the dark beads). The techniques for adding various types of fringe are
shown in Chapter Two.
When done, work the thread tail emerging from bead #1 back into the piece using
the zig-zag method described in the Finishing section of Chapter One.
55
CHAPTER 4
DAISY CHAIN
The Daisy Chain stitch is a very pretty one. It can be

used for bracelets, anklets, necklaces and chokers. It is a
good one to start with if you are a beginner. One
possible variation is to use a slightly larger bead size for
the center bead of each flower (the orange beads in the
example shown here and beads #6 and #15 in the following steps). Try this and
watch the effect.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Indian Flower
Pick up a light bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the
thread, leaving six to eight inches of thread as a tail. Now
pass the needle up through the bottom of the bead. Try not to
split the thread as it will be removed later.
Figure 4.1
See Starting in Chapter One for detailed explanations of this
process.
Pick up four more light beads, then one dark bead on the
needle. Pass the needle back through bead #1 towards the tail.
Figure 4.2
56
Pick up three more light beads (#7, #8 and #9) and pass
the needle through bead #5.
Figure 4.3
Pick up one light bead (#10) and pass the needle back
through bead #9.
Figure 4.4
Pick up another light bead (#11) and pass the needle back
through bead #10.
Figure 4.5
57
Pick up three more light beads (#12, #13 and #14) and one
dark bead (#15). Pass the needle back through bead #11.
Figure 4.6
Pick up three more light beads (#16, #17 and #18) and
pass the needle through bead #14.
Figure 4.7
You can keep adding more flowers until your chain reaches the desired length by
repeating steps four through seven. Add nine to all bead numbers for each new
flower you add.
When done, work the thread tail emerging from bead #1 back into the piece using
the zig-zag method described in the Finishing section of Chapter One.
58
CHAPTER 5
FLOWER STITCH
The Flower Stitch can be used for pendants, earrings and

even window hangings. This stitch is a favorite because of
the many things which can be done with it. Through some
experimentation, you can develop other patterns from it.
The example shown here has three rows while the pattern
pages show four rows. You can expand the circles out as far
as you want by adding more rows. After you've done this
stitch a few times, try experimenting on your own. Print out
the pattern pages and make copies to develop your design ideas.
Alternate names for this stitch include: African Flower, Flower Mandala, African Flower
Mandala
Row 1 – step 1
Pick up the first bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the
Figure 5.1
process.
59
Row One or Base
String eleven more beads (#2 to #12) onto the needle

and make a circle by passing the needle through bead
#1 again.
Figure 5.2
Row Two
Pick up three beads (#13, #14 and #15) and pass

Figure 5.3
60
Pick up three beads (#16, #17 and #18) and pass the
needle through bead #5.
Figure 5.4
Continue in this manner (picking up three

more beads each time) for beads #7, #9, #11
and #1 as shown in Figure 5.5
Figure 5.5
61
Now pass the needle back through beads #13 and
#14 as shown in Figure 5.6
Figure 5.6
Row Three
Pick up five beads (#31 through #35) and pass

Figure 5.7
62
Continue in this manner
(picking up five beads each
time) for beads #20, #23, #26,
#29 and #14 as shown.
Figure 5.8
Now pass the needle back through

beads #31, #32 and #33 as shown.
Figure 5.9
63
Row N
You may stop here or keep adding more rows by adding two to the number of
beads in each 'petal' (i.e. there were three beads per 'petal' in the 2nd row and
five in the 3rd. There will be seven beads per 'petal' in the 4th row, nine in the
5th, etc.).
Finish
Fringe is usually added to the outer row. This is explained in Chapter Two.
This stitch can also work as a pendant hanging. It is very versatile. You can
change the number of 'petals' by changing the number of beads in the first
row. The example shown in this chapter has twelve beads in the first row and
six 'petals'. Just divide the number of beads in the first row by two to get the
number of 'petals' you will end up with.
64
Earwear
You may wish to attach an earwire to

this piece. If so, pick one of the points
(or 'petals'). Work your needle to the
middle bead of that 'petal'. Pick up
six to eight beads and pass the needle
through the same middle bead going
in the same direction as the first time.
Figure 5.10
65
Pattern 1
Print this page out and make copies!
66
Pattern 2
67
CHAPTER 6
TWILL STITCH
The Twill stitch makes very nice bracelets, anklets, chokers and belts.
Because the pattern is so regular, you can also design and create very
beautiful pictures for wall-hangings. The only limitation here is the
number of different colors you have available in beads. If you can
imagine it, you can create it with beads! Print out the pattern pages and
make copies to develop your design ideas.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Flat Peyote or Paoti
Row One or Base
String six more beads onto the needle then pass

the needle back through bead #5 in the opposite
direction.
Figure 6.2
Pick up a bead (#8) and pass the needle through bead

#3.
Figure 6.3
68
Pick up another bead (#9). Pass the needle through
bead #1 and pull the thread tight.
Figure 6.4
Row Two
Pick up a bead (#10) and pass the needle back through

bead #9.
Figure 6.5
Pick up another bead (#11) and pass the needle

through bead #8.
Figure 6.6
Pick up another bead (#12) and pass the needle

through bead #7. Pull the thread tight.
Repeat these steps until the desired length is reached.

Use Pattern 1 to determine the bead numbers.
Figure 6.7
69
Pattern 1
70
Pattern 2
71
Pattern 3
72
CHAPTER 7
GOURD STITCH
The Gourd stitch can be used to make very pretty rope-style

bracelets, anklets, necklaces, chokers and belts. Patterns such as
daisies, chevrons, lightning bolts, god's eyes and many others can
be incorporated into it. Print out the pattern page and make
copies to create your own designs. Experiment and have fun with
it. You can make very exotic draw-string bag covers. Adding
fringe on the bottom can make it even more beautiful. Different
types of fringe are explained in Chapter Two. For earrings, do
about five to eight rows, then add fringe.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Round Peyote or Paoti
Row 1 – step 1
Pick up the first bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the
Figure 7.1
process.
73
Row 1 – step 2
String twelve more seed beads onto

the needle.
Figure 7.2
Row 1 – step 3
Make a circle by passing the needle back through all

thirteen beads starting with bead #1.
Figure 7.3
74
Row 1 – step 4
End this first row by passing the needle through bead

#1 yet again. Pull the thread tight.
Figure 7.4
Row 2 – step 5
Pick up a bead (#14) and pass the needle through bead

#3.
Figure 7.5
75
Row 2 – step 6
Pick up another bead (#15) and pass the needle through

bead #5.
Figure 7.6
Row 2 – step 7
Pick up another bead (#16). Pass the needle through bead

#7.
Figure 7.7
Row 2 – step 8
Continue in this manner for beads #17, #18 and #19

passing the needle through every other bead each
time (#9, #11 and #13 respectively) as shown.
Figure 7.8
76
Row 2 – step 9
End this second row by picking up bead #20 and

passing the needle through bead #14 (the first bead in
Row Two). Pull the thread tight. There will be seven
beads altogether in Row Two.
Figure 7.9
Row 3 – step 10
Pick up bead #21 and pass the needle through bead #15.
Figure 7.10
77
Row 3 – step 11
Continue in this manner for beads #22, #23, #24

and #25, passing the needle through a bead in Row
Two each time (#16, #17, #18 and #19
respectively) as shown.
Figure 7.11
Row 3 – step 12
Pick up bead #26 and pass the needle through bead

#20 to finish Row Three. Pull the thread tight.
Figure 7.12
78
Row 3 – step 13
The work should now form a tube or basket as shown in

Figure 7.13
Figure 7.13
Row 4 – step 14
Add another row by repeating Steps 10 through 12 and adding six to all bead
numbers.
Figure 7.14
79
Row 4 – step 15
Pick up bead #33 and pass the needle through bead #27 to finish Row Four.
Figure 7.15
Row 5 – step 16
Repeat Steps 10 through 12 again but this time add

thirteen to all bead numbers.
Figure 7.16
Row N
You may continue to add as many rows as you like by repeating Steps 10 through
12. Alternate between seven (even rows) and six (odd or basket rows) beads per
row.
80
Pattern
81
CHAPTER 8
BRICK STITCH
The Brick stitch is a very beautiful and majestic stitch. It is very

versatile and a favorite of many beaders. You can make a
diamond-shaped earring if you use either all seed beads or all
bugle beads. Another option is the triangle shape which usually
works best when seed beads and bugle beads are both used and
a fringe is added at the bottom row. Fringes can be very
elaborate and you can incorporate some really nice designs with
your fringe. Detailed fringe techniques are covered in Chapter
Two.
IMPORTANT NOTE: There are different techniques for

creating the Brick stitch. This is only one of them and it is
probably not the best, but it is the only one that we know the
instructions for. We have heard that there is a method which
hides the thread within the finished stitch better.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Brick-Laying, Comanche Stitch
Step 1
Thread the needle with about two feet (two-thirds of a meter) of

thread. Pick up a bugle bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the
thread, leaving six to eight inches of thread as a tail. Now pass the
needle through the bead again going in the same direction. Try not
to split the thread as it will be removed later. Figure 8.1
See Starting in Chapter One for detailed explanations of this process.
82
Step 2
Pick up a second bugle bead on the needle. Let it drop

down to the first bead.
Figure 8.2
Step 3
Pass the needle back up through the first bugle bead as

shown.
Figure 8.3
Step 4
The two bugle beads now lay side by side.
Figure 8.4
83
Step 5
Pick up the third bugle bead on the needle.
Figure 8.5
Step 6
Pass the needle back through the first bead as shown. The
thread is now emerging from the middle bead.
Figure 8.6
Step 7
Pass the needle back through the third bead and pull the thread
tight.
Figure 8.7
84
Step 8
Pick up the fourth bugle bead on the needle.
Figure 8.8
Step 9
Pass the needle back through the third bugle bead as shown.
Figure 8.9
Step 10
Pass the needle back through the fourth bead and pull the thread
tight.
Figure 8.10
85
Step 11
Pick up the fifth bugle bead on the needle.
Figure 8.11
Step 12
Pass the needle back through the fourth bugle bead.
Figure 8.12
Step 13
Pass the needle back through the fifth bugle bead and pull the
thread tight.
Figure 8.13
86
Step 14
Pick up the sixth bugle bead on the needle.
Figure 8.14
Step 15
Pass the needle back through the fifth bugle bead.
Figure 8.15
Step 16
Pass the needle back through the sixth bugle bead and pull
the thread tight.
Figure 8.16
87
Step 17
Pick up the seventh bugle bead on the needle.
Figure 8.17
Step 18
Pass the needle back through the sixth bugle bead.
Figure 8.18
Step 19
Pass the needle back through the seventh bead and pull
the thread tight. You are now ready to start the next
section.
Figure 8.19
88
Step 20
Pick up a small seed bead (#8) on the needle.
Figure 8.20
Step 21
Pass the needle under the thread going between the last
two bugle beads (#6 and #7) and pull the thread tight.
The seed bead now lies on top of the two bugle beads.
Figure 8.21
Step 22
Now pass the needle back through the seed bead going
in the opposite direction so that a loop is formed around
the thread going between the two bugle beads.
Figure 8.22
89
Step 23
The first seed bead (#8) should now lie flat on top of the
two bugle beads. Pick up another small seed bead (#9).
Figure 8.23
Step 24
Pass the needle under the thread going between the next
two bugle beads (#5 and #6) and pull the thread tight.
Figure 8.24
Step 25
Pass the needle back through the second seed bead (#9)
going in the opposite direction forming a loop around
the thread (as in Step 22).
Figure 8.25
90
Step 26
Repeat steps 23 through 25 four more times for a total of

six seed beads in the first row of seed beads.
Figure 8.26
Step 27
Pick up another seed bead (#14) to begin the next row of

seed beads.
Figure 8.27
Step 28
Pass the needle under the thread going between the last
two seed beads (#12 and #13) in the first row of seed
beads and pull the thread tight.
Figure 8.28
91
Step 29
Pass the needle back through seed bead #14 going in the
opposite direction and forming a loop around the thread
going between seed beads #12 and #13.
Figure 8.29
Step 30
Repeat steps 27 through 29 four more times to complete

the second row of seed beads. The thread now emerges
from bead #18 in an upward direction.
Figure 8.30
92
Step 31
You are now ready to begin the third row of seed beads.
Keep repeating steps 27 through 29, adding rows with
one less bead each time until there are only two beads in
the row.
Figure 8.31
Step 32
When the fifth row of seed beads consisting of two

beads (#26 and #27) is completed, pick up six to eight
seed beads on the needle (#28 through #33, #34 or #35,
depending on how many beads you decide to use).
Figure 8.32
93
Step 33
Now pass the needle downward through bead #26 and

pull the thread tight.
Figure 8.33
Step 34
Continue in this manner passing the needle through

beads #25, #19, #18, #8 and #7 as shown below. Pull the
thread tight after every bead.
Figure 8.34
94
Finish
You have now completed the basic Brick stitch, but there is finish work yet to do.
At this point you may want to work the thread emerging from bead #1 back into the
piece using the zig-zag method described in the Finishing section of Chapter One.
It is usual for the Brick stitch to add some fringe to the bottom row. Many different
fringe possibilities are explained in Chapter Two.
There is another option besides fringe. You may form a diamond shape by going on
to Step 35.
Diamond
Step 35
To form a diamond shape, the beads must be either all

bugle beads or all seed beads. It doesn't look right if
you try to mix them. The example shown here uses all
seed beads. Turn the work upside-down so that bead #7
is at the right side with the thread going upward from
the top. Now go back and repeat steps 20 through 31.
When you are finished, the work should look like the
example shown in figure 8.35. The beads with no
numbers represent that portion of the stitch which has
already been completed. The numbered beads
correspond with the bead numbers in steps 20 through
31. You are almost done.
Figure 8.35
95
Step 36
Now pick up one more seed bead (#28) and pass the
needle downward through seed bead #26 as shown. Pull
the thread tight.
Figure 8.36
96
Step 37
Continue in this manner passing the needle downward

through beads #25, #19, #18, #8 and #7 as shown in
Figure 8.37. Pull the thread tight after every bead.
When you have finished this last step, work the
remaining thread back into the piece using the zig-zag
method described in the Finishing section of Chapter
One.
Figure 8.37
97
Pattern 1
98
Pattern 2
99
CHAPTER 9
LACE STITCH
The Lace stitch can be used for bracelets, anklets,

earrings, chokers and bag covers. The thread tension
for this particular stitch is critical. It must be
moderately tight. You will probably have to try the
stitch a few times before it comes out right so don't
get too discouraged. Some very nice patterns can be
incorporated into this lacy type of stitch. Use the pattern pages at the end of this
chapter to experiment with different design ideas.
Alternate names for this stitch include: Mexican Lace
Step 1
Pick up a white bead on the needle. Pull the bead down the
Figure 9.1
process.
Step 2
Pick up sixteen more beads on

the needle in the following
order; 1 white, 1 black, 3 white,
1 black, 3 white, 1 black, 5
white and 1 black. Pass the
needle back through bead #11
Figure 9.2
as shown.
100
Step 3
Pick up 1 black, 1 white and 1

black bead (#18, #19 and #20)
and pass the needle through
bead #7 as shown.
Figure 9.3
Step 4
Pick up three more beads on the

needle; 1 black (#21), 1 white
(#22), and another black (#23).
Pass the needle back through
beads #3, #2 and #1.
Figure 9.4
Step 5
Pick up 3 white beads (#24, #25

and #26) and 1 black bead (#27).
Figure 9.5
101
Step 6

beads #3, #2 and #1 again.
Figure 9.6
Step 7
Now pass the needle back

through beads #24, #25 and #26.
Figure 9.7
Step 8
Pick up 3 beads on the needle; 1

white (#28), 1 black (#29) and
another white (#30). Pass the
needle through bead #22.
Figure 9.8
102
Step 9
Pick up 3 more beads on the

needle; 1 white (#31), 1 black
(#32) and another white (#33).
Pass the needle through bead #19.
Figure 9.9
Step 10

needle; 1 white (#34), 1 black
(#35) and another white (#36).
Pass the needle through bead
#16.
Figure 9.10
Step 11
Pick up 3 white beads (#37,

#38 and #39) and 1 black bead
(#40). Pass the needle back
through bead #35 as shown.
Figure 9.11
103
Step 12

(#42) and another black (#43).
Pass the needle through bead #32.
Figure 9.12
Step 13

(#45) and 1 black (#46). Pass the
needle through beads #29, #28
and #26.
Figure 9.13
Step 14
Pick up 3 white beads (#47, #48

and #49) and 1 black bead (#50).
Figure 9.14
104
Step 15

beads #29, #28 and #26.
Figure 9.15
Step 16
Now pass the needle through

beads #47, #48 and #49.
Figure 9.16
105
Finish
Pull the thread tight. The piece

should now look like the example
shown.
Figure 9.17
Row N
Repeat steps 8 through 16 to add

another row. Add 23 to all bead
numbers.
Keep repeating steps 8 through 16

to continue adding rows. Be sure
to keep adding 23 to all bead
numbers each time.
Figure 9.18
106
Pattern
107
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/default.asp
Knots Tutorial
# 7915
: : : Materials : : :
Thread or cord
Organza ribbon
Velvet ribbon
Overhand Knot
• Make a loop with both threads and pass one end through the loop; pull to tighten.
108
Surgeon's Knot
• Bring the left thread over and around the right thread twice.
• Bring the right thread over and around the left thread one time; pull to tighten.
It is recommended that you add a dab of glue to the surgeon's knot for extra security.
Lark's Head Knot
• Fold a length of cording in half; pass the loop through a gemstone donut or bead with a large
enough hole.
• Pass the ends of the cord through the loop; pull to tighten.
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Half-Hitch Knot
• Pass the working thread (working thread: the length of thread that has a needle threaded on
or the end that is being used to string beads onto) through a bead already strung on your
design.
• Form a loop with the working thread, perpendicular and behind the thread with beads already
strung on it.
• Bring the working thread over the thread with beads and through the loop; pull to tighten.
• Pass the working thread through the next bead and repeat.
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Square Knot
• Bring the left-hand thread over the right-hand thread and around.
• Cross the right over the left then go through the loop; pull to tighten.
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Endless Necklace
# 691Q
The possibilities are endless...and claspless! Here's how to build a long necklace that slips over the
head and has no visible beginning or end. These instructions show you how to make it without gaps.
Thread or Cord
Hypo Tube Cement
Beading Needles
Below are insructions on creating an "endless necklace":
STEP 1
If your necklace is long enough to slip over the head and the pattern is repetitive, you can eliminate
the clasp and create a long strand that appears to have no beginning or end. A large circular bead
board is always useful for laying out any necklace. For an endless strand it is extremely helpful for
checking the consistency of the pattern.
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Start with an extra foot of cord. Make a loop knot, but leave the loop about 5" long. This ensures that
you'll have plenty of length to work with at each end of the necklace. Tie a double half-hitch knot
immediately after the loop knot. Put a dot of glue on this knot and put the loop over the thumbtack.
Lay out the beads in a circle on a bead board or terrycloth towel, making sure that the pattern is
continuous. String and knot all but the last 3 beads. Make the last knot a double half-hitch and put a
dot of glue on it. Trim the shorter cord and remove the needle. String 1 of the final 3 beads on the
remaining cord.
STEP 2
Trim one cord from the loop knot and thread the needle on the remaining cord. String 2 of the final 3
beads.
STEP 3
Each cord passes through 2 of the 3 final beads. Pull each cord taut and make a double half-hitch
where each emerges. Glue and trim the knots.
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How to Use French Wire
# 691N
Use French wire to protect the thread from abrading as it passes over the loop on the clasp.
French Wire
Thread or Cord
Clasps
STEP 1
Cut a length of thread, 12-inches longer than the desired finished length of your design. Add the
needle to one end.
STEP 2
Cut two 1/4-inch lengths of French wire.
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STEP 3
String the first bead in your design, one piece of French wire and the loop on one half of the clasp.
Pass the needle back through the bead and pull the thread so there is a tail of thread about 3-inches
long.
STEP 4
Make a knot below the bead using the tail thread and the working thread. Dot the knot with G-S Hypo
Cement. Let dry, then trim any excess thread from the tail.
STEP 5
After stringing the remaining beads in your design, add the second piece of French wire and the loop
on the other half of the clasp. Pass the needle back through the last bead.
115
STEP 6
Pull the thread, taking out any remaining slack. Make a half-hitch knot. Repeat, making a double knot.
Dot the knot with G-S Hypo Cement. Let dry, then trim the excess thread close to the knot.
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Forming Beaded Links
# 691D
Flat nose pliers
Wire
Below are instructions on forming beaded links:
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STEP 1
String a bead on a piece of wire. Bend each end at a 90-degree angle.
STEP 2
Bend each end into loops.
STEP 3
Grasp the loop firmly with one pair of flat nose pliers and use another pair to wrap the end of the loop
tightly around the wire.
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Secrets to using Bead Caps
# 790A
Top off a bead using a bead cap. Finish it with a simple loop that attaches easily and securely to a link
on a chain or pair of earrings for a simple and stylish dangle.
Bead caps of your choice

Headpins
Beads of your choice
Finished chain in bracelet or necklace length
Pliers, round-nose
Pliers, chain-nose
Pliers, flush-cut
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STEP 1
Place a bead and a bead cap onto a headpin. Using chain-nose pliers, grip the wire right above the
bead cap and bend the wire to a 90° angle.
STEP 2
Hold the flush-cut pliers so the flat side is facing the bead and trim the excess wire to 3/8 inch.
STEP 3
Grip the tip of the cut wire with your round-nose pliers. Rotate your wrist, wrapping the wire around
one barrel of the pliers to create a loop.
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STEP 4
Using chain-nose pliers, open the loop of one dangle up and not out to the side. Add the open loop to
one link in the chain and close the loop to secure.
Repeat adding drops all along the length of the chain.
Stitching and Wire-Working Techniques
Courtesy of Beader's Companion (Beadwork February/March 2005)

# 7736
Pass Through vs. Pass Back Through
Pass through means to move your needle in the same direction that the beads have been strung.
Pass back through means to move your needle in the opposite direction.
Finished and Starting New Threads
Tie off your old thread when it's about 4" long by making a simple knot betweeen beads. Pass through
a few beads and pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through a few more beads and trim the thread close
to the work. Start the new thread by tying a knot between beads and weaving through a few beads.
Pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through several beads until you reach the place to resume beading.
Tension Bead
A tension bead (or stopper bead) holds your work in place. To make one, string a bead larger than
those you are working with, then pass through the bead one or more times, making sure not to split
your thread. The bead will be able to slide along, but will still provide tension to work against when
you're beading the first two rows.
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Loomwork
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for warping your bead loom. Note that you will need one more
warp thread than you have number of beads in a row.
To weave the beads, tie a thread to an outside warp (tie onto the left warp if you are right-handed, the
right warp if you are left-handed). Use a needle to string the first row of beads and slide them down to
the knot. Bring the beaded weft thread under the warp threads and push the beads up with your
fingers so that there is one bead between each two warp threads. Hold the beads in place and pass
back through all the beads, making sure that the weft thread passes over the warp threads. End your
threads by weaving back through the beadwork, tying knots between beads.
Stringing
Stringing is a technique in which you use a beading wire, needle and thread, or other material to
gather beads onto a strand.
Ladder Stitch
Using two needles, one threaded on each end of the thread, pass one needle through one or more
beads from left to right and pass the other needle through the same beads from right to left. Continue
adding beads by crisscrossing both needles through one bead at a time. Use this stitch to make
strings of beads or as the foundation for brick stitch.
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For a single-needle ladder, string 2 beads and pass through them again. String 1 bead. Pass through
the last stitched bead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding one bead at a time and working in a
figure-eight pattern.
Brick Stitch
Begin by creating a foundation row in ladder stitch or using a secured thread. String one bead and
pass under the closest exposed loop of the foundation row. Pass back through the same bead and
continue, adding one bead at a time.
To decrease within a row, string one bead and skip a loop of thread on the previous row, passing
under the second loop and back through the bead.
To increase within a row, work two stitches in the same space of the previous row.
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Flat Peyote Stitch
One-drop peyote stitch begins by stringing an even number of beads to create the first two rows.
Begin the third row by stringing one bead and passing through the second-to-last bead of the previous
rows. String another bead and pass through the fourth-to-last bead of the previous rows. Continue
adding one bead at a time, passing over every other bead of the previous rows.
Two-drop peyote stitch is worked the same as above, but with two beads at a time instead of one.
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Tubular Peyote Stitch
String an even number of beads and make a foundation circle by passing through them two more
times, exiting from the first bead strung. String 1 bead and pass through the third bead of the
foundation circle. String 1 bead and pass through the fifth bead of the foundation circle. Continue
adding 1 bead at a time, skipping over 1 bead of the first round, until you have added half the number
of beads of the first round. Exit from the first bead of the second round. String1 bead, pass through the
second bead added in the second round and pull thread tight. String 1 bead and pass through the third
bead added in the second round. Continue around, filling in the ''spaces'' 1 bead at a time. Exit from
the first bead added in each round.
Crimping
String a crimp tube and pass through the connection finding. Pass back through the tube leaving a
short tail. Use the back notch of a crimping pliers to pinch the tube into a U, leaving a wire on each
side of the bend. Rotate the tube 90° and use the f ront notch to form the pinched tube into a clean
cylinder.
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Tubular Herringbone
Begin with a foundation row of ladder stitch. Join the ends together to form a tube. String 2 beads.
Pass down through the next bead and up through the bead after it. Repeat around the tube. At the end
of the round, pass through the first beads of the previous and current rounds to step up to the new
round.
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Flat Herringbone Stitch
Begin with a foundation row of even-count ladder stitch. String 2 beads, pass down through the
second to last bead in the ladder, and up through the next bead. String 2 beads, pass down the next
bead and then up through the following. Repeat to the end of the row. To end the row, pass back
through the last bead strung. To begin the next row, string 2 beads and pass down through the second
to last bead of the previous row. Repeat, stringing 2 beads per stitch and passing down then up
through two beads of the previous row. The 2-bead stitch will cause the beads to angle-up in each
row, like a herringbone fabric.
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Right-Angle Weave (Single Needle)
String 4 beads and pass through them again to form the first unit. For the rest of the row, string 3
beads, pass through the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the first two just strung;
the thread path will resemble a figure- 8, alternating directions with each unit. To begin the next row,
pass through the last 3 beads strung to exit the side of the last unit. String 3 beads, pass through the
last bead passed through, and the first bead just strung. *String 2 beads, pass through the next edge
bead of the previous row, the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the last 2 beads just
strung. Pass through the next edge bead of the previous row, string 2 beads, pass through the last
bead of the previous unit, the edge bead just passed through, and the first bead just strung. Repeat
from * to complete the row then begin a new row as before.
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Netting (Single Thread)
Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String 5 beads and go back through the fifth bead from the
end of the base row. String another 5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and go back through the
next. Repeat to the end of the row, passing through the fifth, fourth, and third beads of those just
strung and exiting from the third. Turn the work over and go back across the same way.
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Right-Angle Weave (Double Needle)
Using two needles, one on each end of the thread, string three beads on one of the needles and slide
them to the center of the thread. String a fourth bead, passing one needle through from left to right
and passing the other needle through from right to left. String one bead with each needle, then pick up
one more bead and pass one needle through from left to right and pass the other needle through from
right to left. Continue for desired length of row. To work the next row, repeat as for the first row,
stringing new beads only onto the right thread and passing back through beads from the first row with
the left thread.
To make a row-end decrease, simply stop your row short and begin a new row.
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Wireworking
To make a simple loop, grasp one end of the wire with round-nose pliers. Holding on to the wire with
one hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire end and wire body touch. Create a 90° reverse bend
where they meet.
For a wire-wrapped loop, cut the desired length of wire and make a 90° bend 2" from one end. Use
round-nose pliers to hold the wire near the angle and bend the short end up and around the pliers until
it meets itself. Wrap the wire tightly down the neck of the wire to create a couple of coils. Trim the
excess to finish.
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How to use Scrimp™ Beads
# 727G
What's a Scrimp™? A heavy-duty combination of a screw finding and a crimp. Ideal for weighty beads.
Precision components contain a screw inside the barrel that crimps and holds wires in place. Scrimps
can be loosened and retightened for adjusting ease. Brass crimp kits come in silver and gold colors
and include instructions, a scrimp screwdriver, ten scrimps with screws and six additional screws
hidden inside the tube. 1.02mm inside diameter hole size accommodates wire up to .018-inch
diameter.
Scrimps
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STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
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The Braided Look: 3-strand Bracelet
# 691B
Braiding multiple strands of small beads gives body to the design and creates visually captivating
textures. These easy-to-follow instructions for three-strand braids will get you started.
Bead, tigereye, 4mm round

Gold-plated beads, smooth round, 4mm
Gold-filled jumpring, solder filled, approximately 22 gauge, round, 2.3mm
French wire, 2-3 inches
Nylon thread, #2
Needles
Glue
Springring clasp
Pliers
Pins
STEP 1
Separate the three strands. Take the top (or right-hand) strand and pass it over the center strand, so
that it lies between the center and the bottom strand.
134
STEP 2
Take the opposite strand and again pass it over the center strand.
STEP 3
Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 alternately, and you’re braiding.
135
How to use a Wire Wrap Donut Bail
# 6C02
Turn a gemstone or glass donut into an eye-catching pendant with donut bails. There are 2 styles of
donut bails available: with castings, or wire wrap.
Wire wrap donut bail

Chain or flat-nose pliers
Scissors
16-gauge jumpring
Donut of your choice
White light-medium weight thread
: : : Additional Resources : : :
See the instructions for How To Use A Donut Bail with Casting
136
Below are insructions on using a wire wrap donut bail:
STEP 1
Open a jumpring. Gently fold the two loops of the bail over the top edge of the donut, bending until the
wires meet in the center of the donut.
Pass an open jumpring over one loop, through the hole of the donut, and around the other loop. Close
the jumpring.
137
STEP 2
Cut a length of thread and knot the end of it. String on your beads, passing the thread through the
jumpring in the center of the bail, but not through the donut. String your bead pattern in reverse,
ending with a knot. Secure knot and trim the thread. Repeat until the donut hole is as full as you’d like
it to be.
STEP 3
Add a jumpring and chain through the top loop of the donut bail and you're all set to go!
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How To Use Bead Tips
# 691P
Conceal your knots and add a great accent with bead tips.
Bead Tips
Thread or Cord
Beading Needles
Clasps
STEP 1
There are three types of metal bead tips. All three cover the final knot and attach to the clasp with a
metal hook that you bend over the clasp loop with pliers. The bottom clamp-on style of bead tip is
available in a variety of finishes. When finished, bead tips look like small, metal beads at each end of
the strand; a clean, professional look.You'll need two bead tips. Prepare the needles and cord as
before. Where you would normally attach to your clasp, tie a loop knot in the cord and put it over the
thumbtack. Leave the knot loose and let it extend 2-3''. Thread both needles through the first bead tip.
Knot after the bead tip and pull the knot snug. Do not close the bead tip yet.
STEP 2
String the beads and knot as before. This time knot after every bead, including the last one. Now
thread both needles through the bottom of the second bead tip. Secure it with 2 half-hitch knots.
Put a drop of thin glue on the double knot. Cut the open loop knot from step 1 in half so there are 2
ends and tie them together with a square knot inside the first bead tip. Dot this knot with glue. When
dry, carefully trim the excess cord.
139
STEP 3
Now, close the cups of the bead tips by pressing them together with chain nose pliers. don't let the
cups twist. Attach the hooks to the clasp with round nose pliers.
Basic Jewelry Loop Instructions
# 691E
Headpins, precious metal

Headpins, plated
Eyepins
Round nose pliers

Bent nose pliers
Side cutting pliers
140
Below are insructions on creating a basic jewelry loop:
STEP 1
Slide bead(s) onto a headpin or eyepin.
STEP 2
Using your bent nose or chain nose pliers, bend the wire to form a right angle as close to the bead as
possible.
STEP 3
Using side cutter pliers or the cutting part of your rosary pliers, remove any excess wire, leaving
approximately 1/4-inch of wire.
141
STEP 4
Examine the tips of your round nose or rosary pliers. Find the area that is approximately 1/8-inch away
from the end. Depending on how fine or thick of a point your round nose or rosary pliers have, you
might need to adjust the distance in order to achieve the same size loop.
STEP 5
Grab the very end of the wire at a point approximately 1/8-inch down from the tip of your round nose or
rosary pliers.
STEP 6
Roll the wire around the tip of the round nose or rosary pliers to form a complete circle centered over
the wire stem.
142
STEP 7
To open or close a loop, using your bent nose or chain nose pliers, gently lift the loop up from the
closed side making a small space to insert your next loop. Do not pull the loop straight out or the round
shape will be distorted.
STEP 8
Insert another loop or earwire. Close the loop back to its closed position using your bent nose or chain
nose pliers.
STEP 9
To make sure the tip of the wire forms a secure loop, use your bent nose or chain nose pliers and
gently squeeze the loop to ensure it is securely closed. Or if you have them, you can use a pair of loop
closing pliers. This ensures the loops won't separate while you're wearing your design.
Helpful hint: to make the piece look more finished, make your loop so it closes on the same side as
your original loop when using eyepins.
143
Diamond Chain
By Kathy Rice
# 691C
Seed beads
Thread or cord
Beading needles
Here are some instructions on how to make a diamond chain:
STEP 1
Pick up 12 beads (1 point bead (pb), 2 center beads (cb), 1 pb, 2 cb, 1 pb, 2 cb).
Run the needle through the first point bead and 2 center beads.
144
STEP 2
Now run the needle through the center beads only, skipping the point beads. Work your needle
through the first 4 center beads again, then out through the top point bead.
This will cause the point beads to pop out. If they don't, move them to the outside. This is where
tension counts, make sure you pull your thread tight. This will cause the center beads to come close
together.
STEP 3
Pick up 11 beads (2 cb, 1 pb, 2 cb, 1 pb, 2 cb, 1 pb, and 2 cb). Run the needle through the point bead
you just came out of, then through all of the center beads again.
145
STEP 4
Now work your way to the top center beads and repeat step 3.
Color Wheel and Itten's Color Theory
# 6912
A complete range of color effects is found in jewelry pieces from dazzling to subdued. With a little
knowledge of classic color theory, creations can be naturally pleasing, bringing rave reviews for their
harmony.
Creative use of color has always been a hallmark of artists and skilled craftspeople. Our interactive
Color Wheel lets you use basic color theory by quickly and easily determining each type of color
relationship. Just follow the easy-to-understand instructions below and add to your repertoire of
creative techniques! We’ve also included a brief history of contemporary Color Theory and of the man
who invented it, Johannes Itten. Itten developed the perfect visual tool: a 12-color wheel. With his color
wheel, it is fun and easy to develop color schemes that work.
How the Color Wheel Works
The wheel starts with the three primary colors equidistant from each other: yellow, red and blue.
146
Mixing two primaries creates a secondary color. The three secondaries are: orange, violet and green.
Mixing a primary color with a nearby secondary color yields a tertiary color. The six tertiaries are:
yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green and yellow-green.
Here are four basic color schemes: monochromatic, analogous, complementary and split-
complementary.
Monochromatic Scheme: The most simple way to create a beautiful piece is to use the same color
throughout, but by using lighter and darker elements. Shown are various shades and tints of green.
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Analogous Scheme: Always pleasing to the eye are colors that are close to each other on the wheel,
like yellow to orange to red-orange.
Complementary Scheme: Nothing stirs excitement like the eye candy, high contrast effect of a
complementary color scheme. Complementary colors are directly opposite each other on the color
wheel and are always stimulating if their hues are pure. A beautiful, more subdued harmony can be
achieved by using light or dark complementary pairs.
Split-Complementary Scheme: This scheme combines the effect of the powerful complementary
scheme with a variation on the analogous scheme. It offers intriguing possibilities in complexity and
sophistication. Determine a key color. Then go directly across the color wheel to find its complement.
Instead of the complement, use the two colors that you find next to it. In this example the key color is
green. Instead of green's complement (red), its split-complements were chosen: red-orange and red-
violet.
148
The History of Modern Color Theory
The father of contemporary color theory was Johannes Itten, who published his revolutionary "The Art
of Color" in Germany in 1961. His work incorporated the ideas of artists like Leonardo da Vinci, Titian
and Rembrandt and scientists like Sir Isaac Newton and Ewald Hering. In developing his theories, he
drew on a world-wide experience that included his study of Eastern philosophies, the wisdom of the
Chinese and the Hindus and his knowledge of art from around the world. Itten was absorbed by the
work of the old masters and he was also a vital participant in modern art movements, taking his place
at the Bauhaus School alongside artists Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky. His color exhibits are
included in permanent museum collections in Europe and America.
Itten's color wheel and ideas on color harmony are based on science and the mechanics of human
vision. He helped demonstrate the phenomena of "successive contrast," which happens when the
brain creates an afterimage of a color when we look at it for an extended time (example: red is the
afterimage of green). That afterimage is always exactly the color's complement on the color wheel!
Itten recognized that our brains are programmed to find color equilibrium and to recognize harmonies.
In the end, color remains subjective and is always experienced uniquely by different observers.
Familiarity with widely accepted color schemes, however, will help the designer create "winning"
pieces. Itten said, "Knowledge of the laws of design need not imprison ... it can liberate from indecision
and vacillating perception."
149
Add-a-Strand Neckwire
# 6911
Ever wonder how you could get a strand of beads intertwined with wire? Here's a secret.
Add-a-strand neckwire
Accu-Flex® Beading Wire
Hypo Tube Cement adhesive
Wire Cutters
Approximately 82, 6-8MM beads
Below are insructions on using an add-a-strand neckwire:
STEP 1
Cut an 18" piece of Accu-Flex® beading wire. Make a knot on one end and add a drop of Hypo Tube
Cement to secure. When the adhesive has dried, trim any excess Accu-Flex®.
STEP 2
Insert the unknotted end of Accu-Flex® up through the hole on one end of the add-a-strand neckwire.
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STEP 3
Begin stringing your beads onto the Accu-Flex® beading wire. After stringing about 16 beads, begin
twisting the beads and Accu-Flex® around the add-a-strand neckwire.
STEP 4
String and twist the beads so they go the length of the add-a-strand neckwire. Once you've completed
that, pass the end of the Accu-Flex® through the hole on the other end of the add-a-strand neckwire.
STEP 5
Secure the end with a knot, keeping the strand as tight and close to the add-a-strand neckwire as
possible. Add a drop of adhesive.
Let the glue dry before trimming any excess Accu-Flex® and before wearing your bead-wrapped
neckwire.
151
Using a Wire Jig
# 690Z
A wire jig offers you the ability to make great shapes from wire and to make them consistently.
Wire Jig
Wire
Round nose pliers
Paper
Marker
STEP 1
On a piece of graph or plain white paper, draw the placement of your pegs. Once you're familiar with
the jig, you can skip this step and just place the pegs into your jig.
STEP 2
The top diagram is the wire jig with paper pattern. Place the paper over the jig and insert the pegs into
the holes as illustrated in the bottom diagram. Note the different size peg used in the design on the
left-hand side.
152
STEP 3
Make a loop on the end of your wire. Place the loop over the first peg.
STEP 4
Wrap the wire around the pegs.
STEP 5
Remove the shapes from the pegs and adjust as needed. Note how the end of the earring finding is
bent slightly at the tip; how the end of the wire is wrapped twice under the first loop in the center
shape; and how the waves were compressed to make a tighter shape – these are just suggestions; let
your creativity shape your wire designs!
153
How To Use Wrap-Tite Settings
# 690X
Wrap-Tite settings offer a fully-enclosed, double loop enclosure for your stone.
Wrap-Tite setting
Chain nose pliers
Piece of wire
Stone to fit the setting
Below are insructions on using wrap-tite settings:
STEP 1
Place the stone so the crown (the top of the stone) is face down on your work surface, and the back of
the stone is face up.
STEP 2
Put the Wrap-Tite setting over the stone, settling it into place around the girdle. The girdle is the widest
part and it separates the top of the stone from the bottom.
154
STEP 3
Put a piece of wire into the end loop on one side of the setting, sized to fit the loop, this will help
maintain the loop when setting the stone. Using chain nose or bent chain nose pliers, compress the
wire at the base of the loop, wrapping the setting tighter around the stone.
STEP 4
Repeat for the other side of the setting. Your stone is now ''wrapped tite'' and ready to use in your
design.
155
Using a Wide-Eye Needle
# 690R
The Wide-Eye Needle is almost all ''eye'' and therefore can accommodate larger stringing material
(like the ribbon shown) yet still offer the ease of beading with a needle.
Wide-Eye needles
Below are insructions on using wide-eye needles:
STEP 1
Separate the eye.
STEP 2
Thread your stringing material through the opening.
156
STEP 3
Then begin stringing your beads with the needle.
Building Alphabet Slide Jewelry
# 690H
Alphabet slides are a fun and easy way to personalize jewelry.
Slide Bracelet Components
Below are insructions on creating your own custom slide jewelry:
STEP 1
With sharp scissors, cut one end of the rubber cord straight. Snap on the short portion of the clasp to
the straight end of the cord.
157
STEP 2
Slide on your initials, name or message. Hint: feed on slides from right end of the cord so you build
your message as you would spell or write it.
STEP 3
Trim and finish. Measure the cord around your customer's neck, wrist or ankle (allow 1/2 in. for the
other half of the clasp). Trim the right-hand end of the cord and snap on the long portion of the clasp.
That's it!
158
Using The Bead Knotter™
# 690J
Knot pearls and beads quickly with The Bead Knotter™.
Bead Knotter™
Scissors
Clasp
Thread
Needles
Pearl or Gemstone Beads
Hypo-tube cement (optional)
STEP 1
Determine the length of your finished necklace.
STEP 2
Cut a length of thread 4 times your determined finished length.
STEP 3
Thread on your needle; double the thread. At the end of the threads, tie an overhand knot, securing
the two lengths together. Note: Thread used is for illustration purposes only. It is recommended that
you choose thread color that matches the beads in your design.
159
STEP 4
Thread on two beads and your clasp. Slide them down toward the knot.
STEP 5
Pass the needle back through the bead closest to the clasp.
STEP 6
Pull the working thread until the clasp is snug against the first bead and 1" of thread remains between
the first and second bead. Tie an overhand knot using the tail end and the working thread. Pull the
knot tight so it rests against the pearl closest to the clasp.
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STEP 7
Pass the working thread through the second bead then slide it against the first knot.
STEP 8
Make an overhand knot using the tail thread and working thread. Slip the knot over the awl (long tip
end) of the Bead Knotter™. Slide the knot all the way down so it rests against the base. Hold the Bead
knotter in one hand and place your thumb under the tab. Place the working thread over the fork on the
Bead Knotter™ and pull with your other hand, so the knot is pulled snugly against the bead.
STEP 9
Hold the working thread firmly while pushing your thumb upward against the tab. The knot will slide up
and off the awl.
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STEP 10
Thread on the rest of your beads. Space the beads 8-10" from the beads that are already knotted.
Slide the bead next in line up against the last knot. Repeat Steps 8-9 until you've placed knots
between all of your beads except for the last two.
STEP 11
Thread the other loop of the clasp onto the working thread. Bring the thread back through the last
strung bead. Pull the thread so the beads are tight against the clasp.
STEP 12
Tie a half-hitch knot between the last two beads; pull tight.
STEP 13
Bring the working thread through the second to last bead.
STEP 14
Trim the thread on both ends of the necklace. Apply glue to the first knot on both ends (optional).
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How To Use Cord Coils
# 690F
Cord coil ends are an easy and quick way to securely close a cord necklace.
Cording
Chain or flat nose pliers
Jumpring
Cord Coils
Below are insructions on using cord coils:
STEP 1
Place a coil end onto the end of your cording. Make sure it goes at least half way through the coil.
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STEP 2
Compress the first coil at the base of the coil end using flat or chain nose pliers.
STEP 3
String your beads onto your cording. Open a jumpring and loop in through the last coil, at the end of
the cording.
STEP 4
Add a coil end to the other side of the cording. Open a jumpring, add your clasp, and loop it through
the last coil, then close the jumpring.
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Making a Simple Loop
# 652S
Round nose pliers

Chain nose pliers
Headpins
Below are insructions on creating a simple loop:
STEP 1
Using round or chain nose pliers, grip the wire of the headpin just above the last bead added. Bend
the wire to a 90° angle. Using wire cutters, trim t he wire to 3/8”.
STEP 2
Grip the end of the cut wire with the tip of the round nose pliers; have very little wire peaking through
the barrels of the pliers.
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STEP 3
Rotate your wrist away from your body while pushing, with your thumb of your other hand, on the wire
below the forming loop; turn the wire into a loop.
STEP 4
If necessary, adjust the loop so it is centered.
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Making a Wrapped Loop
# 652T
Round nose pliers

Chain nose pliers
Bent nose pliers
Flat nose pliers

Wire
Below are insructions on creating a wrapped loop:
STEP 1
Hold the round nose pliers so the jaws are horizontal. Using the tips of the jaws, grip the piece of wire
above the top bead or 1½” down from the end of the wire. With your free hand, bend the tip of the wire
to a 90° angle.
STEP 2
Place the pliers into the angled section vertically, so one jaw is above and one is below the wire. Bring
the tip of the wire up and over the top jaw of the pliers so it is now facing down.
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STEP 3
Place the pliers so they are horizontal again, one jaw in the loop and one jaw out and to the right.
Continue to bring the wire around the barrel so the wire is now formed in a loop and the end is back
out at a 90° angle.
STEP 4
Remove the round nose pliers. Grip across the loop with chain or bent chain nose pliers. Grip the tip of
the wire with flat nose pliers and wrap it around the straight length of wire below the loop, making
approximately three tightly wound wraps.
STEP 5
Trim any excess wire, then press in the cut end with chain nose pliers.
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Japanese Bead Knotting
# 6918
• Knotting between beads is a lot more trouble than simply stringing them, so why bother?
• The beads look better. The knots space the beads, allowing you to see each bead better
• Beaded necklaces and bracelets that have been knotted have a more finished and expensive
look
• If the necklace ever breaks while your customer is swirling around on the dance floor, only one
bead will be lost
• The necklace is less likely to break. The sharp part of the bead hole tends to wear against the
reinforced knot, not the thin bead cord
• Softer bead materials (such as pearls, malachite, or coral) are prevented from rubbing
together and abrading the sides of the beads
• The necklace costs less to make since fewer beads are required (1-1/2mm per bead). You
can sell it for more, too!
Thread or Cord
Hypo Tube Cement
Beading Needles
Clasp
Forget everything you know about bead knotting.
STEP 1
Selecting cord:
Color: Select cord to match the color of the beads.
Type: Silk is the preferred cord for knotting. Nylon cord will work when a stronger, thicker cord is
necessary.
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Thickness: Use a thickness of cord that when doubled (2 strands) fits snugly inside your bead. Most
beads are drilled with a 1.0mm diameter hole. For soft bead materials such as pearls, silk cord in size
E or F works well. For harder materials like black onyx, garnet, or rose quartz, use nylon cord in size 2
or silk in size F for 8mm beads.
Length: You will need a length of cord at least four times the length of your finished necklace, for
example, an 18" necklace will need at least 4x18=72 inches, or 6 feet.
STEP 2
Select two beading needles. Light-medium Big-Eye or twisted wire beading needles work well for most
projects. Attach one end of your clasp to the edge of your workbench with a thumbtack. Then loop the
cord through the free end of the clasp so that about 1/3 of the length is in your left hand and 2/3 is in
your right hand. If you are left-handed, reverse all of the directions.
STEP 3
Now tie the right-hand cord around the left against the clasp with a half-hitch knot. Always make it in
the same direction. This is the only type of knot you'll use for the entire job.
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STEP 4
Thread a beading needle on each end of the cord. Pass a few inches of cord through the eye. String
about a dozen beads loosely onto the left-hand cord. Wrap the loose end of that cord around the
middle button on your blouse or shirt, to keep the beads from falling off. Push the first bead up to the
clasp and string through it with the right-hand needle. Tie another half-hitch as before always with the
right-hand cord. Pull the knot snug. Push the second bead into place, string through it with the right-
hand cord, knot as before, and pull snug. Continue, stringing more beads on your left-hand cord as
required. Use any mixture of beads you desire, knotting after each.
Read Step 6 before you get to the end of the necklace.
STEP 5
Tying off to the clasp: Do not knot the last two beads. Instead, string both cords through them. With
the right-hand cord, go through the loop in the clasp that was held by the tack and come back through
the last bead. Remove all slack and tie a double half-hitch knot (make 2 half hitches) between the last
bead and the next-to-the-last bead. Take the left-hand cord through the clasp loop and tie a double
half-hitch with it between the last bead and the clasp.
A: Pull out slack and knot here, using right-handed thread.
B: Path of threads. String each thread independently through the clasp.
STEP 6
Now put a tiny drop of a thin adhesive such as Hypo Tube Cement on each of the last two knots.
When dry, carefully trim off the excess cords. Congratulations! You've knotted a strand just like a
professional.
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Using a Cone
By Marlynn, Lead Designer, Publishing Group

# 58AZ
Sterling silver cone, 20.5x8mm

Sterling silver seamless-look round bead, 4mm
Mountain 'jade' turquoise round bead, 4mm
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STEP 1
Bring multiple strands together and attach to a loop at the end of the wire.
STEP 2
Pull the wire through the cone, then form a loop on the top.
STEP 3
Complete the project by attaching a jumpring and clasp.
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How to Crimp a Tube
By Jean Campbell
# 652P
One hundred years ago, attaching stringing material to a clasp for even a simple necklace or bracelet
was involved and time consuming. First, you had to string a short, coiled wire called bullion (or gimp or
french wire) so the thread wouldn't wear against the metal. Then you'd pass through the clasp, back
down into the beads, tie a knot, pass through a few more beads, tie a knot, and on, and on, and on.
Crimping pliers
Clasps
Crimp tubes
Wire
To crimp a tube, follow these steps:
STEP 1
String a crimp tube on the wire.
STEP 2
Pass through the clasp loop and then back through the tube in the opposite direction. This will
temporarily secure the clasp to the wire.
Snug the tube so it is about 1/8" from the clasp loop.
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STEP 3
Nestle the tube into the round part of the pliers' back notch. Squeeze very firmly.
Turn the tube 90 degrees and place it in the pliers' front notch. Squeeze.
STEP 4
The tube should mimic its original cylindrical shape, this time with a seam along the side. If the tube is
misshapen, gently squeeze it into shape using the front notch.
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How to Tie a Surgeon's Knot
# 6201
There are six steps to tying the Surgeon's Knot:
1. Right over left and around
2. Left over right and through
3. Through the loop again
4. Tighten slightly
5. Put the left over the right and through
6. Tighten completely
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Peg Leg - Wire-Wrapping Jig
Instructions by Amy Hardy

# 720J
Peg Leg - Wire Wrapping Jig
Wire
STEP 1
Position pegs in the desired design. For a long design, rotate the screw at the base of the handle to
lengthen the platform.
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STEP 2
Make a wire loop about 1/2" from the end of the wire that will fit around your first peg. Use the thumb
on your non-dominant hand to hold the wire in place while holding the wooden handle.
STEP 3
Place the loop on the first peg and wrap the wire in the direction desired. Make sure when wrapping,
that the wire is on either the outside, inside or wrapped completely around the peg. Wrap the wire
loosely around the peg for a rounder look or tightly for an angular look.
Example Design 1: Earwire
STEP 1
Place three pegs in a triangle design on the platform.
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STEP 2
Make a loop 1/2" from the end of the wire that will fit around the first peg.
STEP 3
Place the loop around the first peg and use the thumb on your non-dominant hand to hold the wire in
place while holding the wooden handle.
STEP 4
Wrap the extra wire up and over the top peg.
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STEP 5
Then wrap the wire under the last peg and pull up.
STEP 6
Trim the wire at the last peg and the first peg.
STEP 7
File the end of the wire that goes into the ear smooth. Then repeat steps 1-7 for a pair of earwires.
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Example Design 2: Large Loop Link
STEP 1
Place four pegs in a row. Place the large brass ring around the two center pegs.
STEP 2
Make a loop 1/2" from the end of the wire that will fit around the first peg.
STEP 3
Place the loop around the first peg and use he thumb on your non-dominant hand to hold the wire in
place while holding the wooden handle.
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STEP 4
Wrap the wire over the large middle ring, then down and around the last small peg. Go back under the
large ring, then down and around the first small peg.
STEP 5
Trim both end wires.
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Color Forecast Guide 2007/2009
Print out this complimentary color guide for your upcoming seasons as an inspiration to create your
own Jewelry Art™ -- it's the same guide used by Haute Couture and all fashion houses! A priceless
tool for designer-artists. Selecting colors from the color guides is a sure-fire way to create style that
sells.
''The whole world, as we experience it visually,

comes to us through the mystic realm of color.
Our entire being is nourished by it.
This mystic quality of color should likewise find
expression in a work of art.''
- Hans Hofmann, Artist
Using the broad selection of Swarovski® crystal components and Celestial Crystal™ beads, you're
sure to find a match for each season! Match gemstone beads hues to similar colors found on the
guide. Select your favorite color per season and mix it with lighter and darker variations of that same
color. Or, pair similar hues of the same primary color for monochromatic drama. Using complementary
colors is another fabulous way to get a balanced design. These colors are directly opposite each other
on the color wheel. Use the Rainbow Tonal Color Selector® wheel.
Spring-Summer 2009
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Fall-Winter 2008/2009
184
Spring-Summer 2008
185
Fall-Winter 2007/2008
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Beading Projects
Seed Bead Bracelets
Designed by Tammy Honaman exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
# 711U
String layers of beads quickly and efficiently with the Speedy Stringer™ -- a revolutionary time-saving
beading tool. Add sterling silver tubes dangling with lustrous pearls for a bubbly bracelet that's perfect
for a day at the office or a night on the town.
Delicious peridot seed beads dripping with amethyst gemstones and ornate sterling silver spacer bars
make this five-strand bracelet five-stars.
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Red Seed Bead Bracelet with Pearl Drops:

Ornela® Czech seed beads, iris metallic rose
Pearl, cultured freshwater, white lotus, 6mm potato
Headpins, sterling silver, 22 guage, 1-1/2 inches
Tube with loop, sterling silver smooth, 1.1mm hole
Clasp, 3-strand sterling silver S-hook
Nymo® beading thread, red, size D
Beading needles, #12, 1-3/16 inches
Speedy Stringer™ bowl with 1-inch needle
Peridot Seed Bead Bracelet with Drops:

Delica® seed beads, peridot
Bead, Amethyst, faceted ovals

Sterling silver tube, smooth
Clasp, sterling silver, 5-strand slide
Spacer bar, sterling silver and peridot 5-hole
Headpins, Hill Tribes silver
Beading thread, Nymo® D, light tan
Beading needle, #12
Tools used for both designs:

Scissors, 4-inch
Nippers
Pliers, OHM short round nose
Pliers, OHM short chain nose
Red Seed Bead Multi-Strand Bracelet with Pearl Drops
STEP 1
Thread a pearl onto a headpin and make a simple loop above the pearl. Repeat step until 22 pearl
drops are complete.
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STEP 2
Open the loop above the pearl and hook it onto the tube bead loop. Close the loop on the pearl drop.
Repeat, adding all 22 pearl drops to tube beads and set aside.
STEP 3
Fill the bowl of the Speedy Stringer with loose seed beads until it's 1/3 to 1/2 full.
STEP 4
Cut a 3-yard length of thread. Knot the thread onto the top loop of one end of the clasp. Thread the
other end of the thread onto the Speedy Stringer needle.
STEP 5
Following the Speedy Stringer instructions, string approximately one inch of seed beads.
STEP 6
String a tube bead onto the needle, then position it next to the seed beads. Continue stringing seed
beads and randomly spacing tube beads throughout the desired length of the bracelet. Please note:
Remember to factor in the length the other end of the clasp will add.
STEP 7
Pass the Speedy Stringer needle through the top loop of the other end of the clasp two times to
secure the strand. String another strand of seed beads equal to the first strand.
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STEP 8
Pass the needle through the top loop of the first end of the clasp two times to secure. Begin stringing a
third length of seed beads, randomly spacing tube beads as you go. Make sure the pearls in this
strand alternate from the pearls in the first strand.
STEP 9
Pass the needle through the top loop of the other clasp end. String a strand of seed beads without any
pearls. Pass the needle through the second loop on the first clasp end two times to secure.
STEP 10
Continue stringing strands of seed beads randomly spaced with tube beads, alternating with rows of
just seed beads. Work your way down the loops of the clasp, stringing three rows per loop.
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STEP 11
After securing the last row of seed beads to the last loop on the clasp, knot the thread. Remove the
Speedy Stringer needle and replace with the #12 needle. Work the needle and thread through the
strands of seed beads, knotting at the end of each strand. Once the thread is shorter than the length
of one strand of seed beads, trim the thread.
Peridot Seed Bead Bracelet with Drops
STEP 1
Thread an amethyst oval bead onto a headpin. Begin a wrapped loop, but before completing the wrap,
slip the headpin loop through the loop of a tube bead. Close the loop of the headpin and complete the
wrap. Repeat to complete 30 amethyst drops.
STEP 2
Cut a 3-yard length of Nymo® beading thread and add a needle to the end of the thread first off of the
spool.
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STEP 3
Attach the free end of the thread to the top loop of one clasp end and tie a knot.
STEP 4
• String a few peridot Delica beads and add a sterling silver tube bead with amethyst dangle.
• Continue stringing Delica beads until you've strung approximately 1-1/4 inches.
• Thread through the top hole of one spacer bar.
• Continue stringing Delica beads and sterling silver tube beads for another 1-1/4 inches.
• Thread through the top hole of a second spacer bar.
• Continue stringing Delica beads and sterling silver tube beads for another 1-1/2 inches and
thread through the top hole of a third spacer bar.
thread through the top hole of a fourth spacer bar.
pass the thread through the top loop of the other clasp end.
Pass the thread through the loop again to secure. Please note: you can adjust the distance
between spacer bars to lengthen or shorten the overall bracelet length so it fits you
comfortably.
STEP 5
• String 1-1/4 inches of Delica beads and pass through the top hole of the fourth spacer bar.
Repeat, stringing lengths of Delicas equal to the first groups of seed beads between each
spacer bar.
• Continue all the way across to the other clasp.
• Wrap the thread around the top loop of the clasp twice to secure.
STEP 6
Repeat step 4, stringing through the second hole of the spacer bars.
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STEP 7
Repeat step 5, stringing through the second hole of the spacer bars.
STEP 8
Repeat steps 6 and 7 until you've strung two strands of seed beads, randomly dotted with sterling
silver tube beads, through each loop of the clasp and through each hole of the spacer bars.
STEP 9
After securing the last row of seed beads to the last loop of the clasp, knot the thread. Work the needle
and remaining thread back through the strands of seed beads, knotting at the end of each strand.
Once the thread gets to be shorter than the length of the bracelet, trim the thread.
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Celebratory Times - Seed Bead and Satin Cord Netting Stitch Bracelet
Designed by Marlynn McNutt, exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
# 711P
Using a basic netting technique, seed beads combine for an unrivaled design. The pattern of this
stitched bracelet can be modified to match your style; choose different colors or use crystals to change
the overall effect.
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Cord, satin, cream, 8-10mm, 8 inch sections

Seed bead, Dyna-Mites™, size 11/0, silver-lined rainbow purple
Seed bead, Dyna-Mites™, size 11/0, silver-lined rainbow silver
Seed bead, Matsuno, size 8/0, rainbow transparent, cream soda
Seed bead, Matsuno, size 8/0, silver-lined pink
Bead, sterling silver, 24mm ribbed cone
Clasp, sterling silver, 22mm leaf-shaped toggle
Eyepin, sterling silver, 4 inch
Bead, sterling silver, 7.5x3mm beaded rondelle

Beading thread, Nymo®, nylon, size D, white
Beading needles, #10, 1-1/4 inches in length
Scissors, 4 inch
Nippers, 5-1/8 inch
Pliers, round-nose, OHM short ergo, 5 inch
Pliers, chain-nose, OHM short ergo, 5-3/4 inch
Quilter's masking tape, 1/4 inch
STEP 1
Cut a long length of beading thread -- I recommend working with two yards but you might find that is
not a comfortable length for you, so try starting with 1 yard if that feels better. Thread the needle,
leaving a tail so you are beading with a single thread.
STEP 2
Using 1/4 inch quilter's masking tape, tape both ends of the satin cord at the edge of the satin cover,
leaving the cotton filling exposed.
STEP 3
Attach the thread to the cord by running the needle through the cotton filling and out through the satin,
below the tape. Make a small stitch in the satin to secure.
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STEP 4
String beads onto the thread. Wrap the beads around the cord to determine how many you need to fit
all the way around; making sure you have an odd amount. I use 21 beads for the 8-10mm cord.
STEP 5
To secure the beads, run the needle and thread through all the beads one more time.
STEP 6
Secure the bead strand to the cord by passing the needle through the cord from one side to the other,
coming out below the strand of beads. Run the needle back through the cord starting above the strand
of beads and coming out the other side of the cord, below the strand of beads. This will form a loop
around the strand of beads and secure it to the cord.
You want the strand to fit right below the tape.
Repeat stitching around the bead strand, stitching on opposite sides of the last pass, so you have
stitches on 4 'sides' of the strand. Come back out at the beginning, where you started, and pass the
needle out of one seed bead in the strand.
You are now ready to start the netting stitch.
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STEP 7
String two purple beads, two silver beads, one size 8/0 bead (cream soda), two silver beads and two
purple beads onto your needle.
This will be the pattern you'll use for the rest of the bracelet.
Skip two beads in the base strand then pass the needle through the third bead in the strand. As you
pull the thread tight you'll form a loop. Add another set of beads to the thread and skip two beads on
the base row. Pass the needle through the sixth bead, pull up the loop. Repeat this step around the
cord.
When you reach the last loop, skip two beads in the base and pass the needle through the first bead
you exited in the beginning. Continue through the first four seed beads of the first loop, and the large
bead (cream soda) at the bottom.
Remember to do this each time you finish adding a row of loops which will set you up for attaching the
loops to the cord.
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STEP 8
To attach the loops to the cord, make sure that the loop your needle is exiting is lying flat and not
twisted. Make a small stitch in the satin, going from the side of the bead your thread is coming out of to
the other side of the bead. You will be making the stitch backward. Pass your needle back through the
large bead; you will now be headed in the correct direction. As you tighten the thread, there will be a
loop around the large bead securing it to the cord.
STEP 9
Make a small stitch in the satin between this loop and the next; making sure the next loop is lying flat
and not twisted. Run the needle through the large bead and take a small stitch in the satin. Repeat this
step all the way around the cord, securing each loop as you go.
When you reach the last loop, take a small stitch in the satin and go through the first large bead that
you secured. This will be where you begin the next row of loops and each subsequent loop will be built
off the large bead in each loop.
Repeat this pattern all the way around the strand.
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STEP 10
Repeat Steps 7-9 for the length of the bracelet, except for the last row.
For the last row, create the loops as before, but replace the large bead in the loop pattern with a
purple bead. And remember, when you attach the loops to the cord, you will be using the purple size
11/0 bead.
STEP 11
After you have attached the last row of loops, go back and add two purple beads between each of the
purple beads you attached to the cord. This will finish this end and make it look just like the beginning.
Weave the needle and thread through the cord a few times to secure the thread end. Clip the thread.
STEP 12
Trim both ends of the cord almost to the tape. This will keep the cotton fiber from showing and make it
easier to attach the cones.
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STEP 13
Using the round nose pliers, roll the eye of one eyepin a few times to make a thicker, wider end. This
ensures that the eyepin will not slip through the large hole of the cone. Add one size 8/0 seed bead to
the eyepin and insert it into the cone. Add one silver rondelle. Begin a wrapped loop at the end that
extends past the cone, securing the clasp in the loop before wrapping closed.
Wrap from the loop down to the silver rondelle, making sure to wrap until the rondelle and cone are
tight and sturdy. Trim excess wire, and make sure the end is flush with the wrap.
STEP 14
Add glue to the end of the cord, on the tape and the fiber of the cord, and insert the end into the cone.
Make sure that you have the cone against the first row of seed beads.
Allow the glue to dry, then repeat Steps 13 and 14 for the other end of the bracelet.
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3-loop Cha-Cha Bracelet
By Arbel Shemesh of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

# 5B46
Wind a wreath of holiday-inspired luxury around your wrist with this lush bracelet. The cha-cha
bracelet base makes it versatile and comfortable, and Swarovski® Crystal pearls add incomparable
luster. All you need besides the components are a couple pairs of pliers…and your creativity!
Designing your bracelet: Pour a combination of beads onto your work surface; keep adding and
subtracting beads of different colors until you have a combination that is pleasing to your eye, just like
a painter’s pallet.
Your work station: Stretch your bracelet base over a small display pillow (or similar item); this will keep
both your hands free while you work. Place the display pillow in a vertical position in a little bowl or
anything circular that will support it so that you can work on your bracelet without the pillow wiggling
around.
Tips: If you are right handed start adding beads to the bracelet from the left loop going to the right. If
you are left handed, add beads from the right to the left. This will keep you from having to climb over
the beads you just added as you add the next row. Also, it is most comfortable to add the beads going
up the bracelet for the same reason; the beads you just added will lie down, keeping them out of your
way.
Swarovski® smoky topaz crystal, bicone, 8mm

Swarovski® tanzanite crystal, round, 6mm
Swarovski® olivine AB crystal, round, 6mm
Swarovski® smoky topaz crystal, round, 6mm
Swarovski® erinite crystal, round, 6mm
Swarovski® Crystal pearl gold, 6mm
Swarovski® Crystal pearl bronze, 6mm
Swarovski® Crystal pearl green, 6mm
Swarovski® Crystal pearl bronze, 8mm
Swarovski® Crystal pearl green, 8mm
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Swarovski® Crystal pearl gold, 8mm
Swarovski® crystal purple AB, 8mm - 3 packs
Swarovski® crystal smoky topaz, 8mm - 3 packs
Cha-Cha expandable bracelet
Headpins with ball - 3 packages of 100
Hill Tribes silver 15mm flower shape
Hill Tribes silver flower on leaf
Sterling silver jumprings, 6mm
Round nose pliers
2 pair Chain nose pliers
Adding the beads:
STEP 1
Place a bead onto a headpin. Using your round nose pliers, make a hook at the end of your headpin
and pass the hook through the left loop on the bracelet, working from the bottom of the loop to the top.
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STEP 2
Using chain nose pliers, hold the end of the wire and complete the loop. Continue to turn the loop,
forming a second loop right next to the first, similar to a splitring or a key-chain ring. As you are
forming the second loop make sure both loops are close together and going into the loop on the
bracelet for a second time, this will give you peace of mind that you have a secure loop and the beads
won’t fall off.
STEP 3
Keep attaching headpins with beads along the entire bracelet, filling in the places where the metal still
shows through, and doubling up on the loops if you want a really full look.
It is good to attach a lot of the 8mm beads on the outside of the bracelet as they will do a better job of
hiding the metal edge than the 6mm beads.
The silver Hill Tribes pieces are optional and when added will turn your cha-cha bracelet into a cha-
cha charm bracelet.
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STEP 4
Place a pair of chain or flat nose pliers on each side of a jumpring. Open the jumpring by moving one
plier away from you and holding the other one steady.
STEP 5
Bring the jumpring through the hole or loop on the Hill Tribes silver piece and through a loop on the
bracelet; close the jumpring. When closing, slightly press the sides of the ring in toward each other to
give tension at the joint when the ring is closed.
Bead Embroidered Cuff
Sherry Serafini for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

# 6524
Lose yourself in the exquisite detail of this beautiful beaded cuff. A combination of stitching and
adhesives bring it all together on a brass base. Sherry Serafini shows you how.
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1-1/2 x 7 inch piece of Lacy's Stiff Stuff beading medium

Nymo® black beading thread, size B
E-6000 glue
Paua shell cabochon
Size 10 beading needle, 1 1/4 inch long
Size 12 beading needle, 3 inches long
Size 15 seed beads, Metallic Rainbow Green
Size 11 seed beads Transparent Dark Topaz
White lotus potato-shaped freshwater pearls

Silver lined Rainbow Rootbeer Bugle beads
1-1/2 x 7 inch piece of suede for backing
Scissors
1 inch brass cuff base
Black permanent fine-point marker
Dowel rod or popsicle stick (for use with adhesive)
STEP 1
Take a piece of paper and make a pattern of the brass cuff and add 1/4 inch all the way around the
pattern. Cut out the pattern.
STEP 2
Use the pattern as a guide and cut the Lacy's Stiff Stuff to the size of the pattern. Draw the 1/4 inch
seam allowance all the way around the Lacy's stiff stuff. Cut the suede, also using the pattern as a
guide.
STEP 3
Take the dowel and roll a thin layer of glue to the underside of the cuff. Attach the suede to the glue
and smooth down. Make sure to center the suede on the cuff. Set aside to dry.
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STEP 4
Roll a thin layer of glue to the back of the cabochon and glue to the center of the Lacy's Stiff Stuff.
Allow the cabochon to dry.
STEP 5
While waiting for the cabochon to dry, go back to the cuff and trim the suede to a 1/16" allowance all
the way around the cuff, and set aside for later.
STEP 6
Cut a length of Nymo® you're comfortable working with. Thread the size 10 needle; tie an overhand
knot at the end.
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STEP 7
Bring the needle up from underneath the Lacy's Stiff Stuff, right next to the cabochon. String on two
size 15 seed beads, allowing the beads to rest against the side of the cabochon.
STEP 8
Pass your needle down through the Lacy's Stiff Stuff so the beads are sitting securely against the
cabochon. Pass the needle back up through the Lacy's at the starting point and pass the needle
through the same two beads exiting the second one.
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STEP 9
Pick up two more size 15 seed beads. Slide the beads snug up against the previous two. Pass the
needle down through the Lacy's Stiff Stuff and bring the needle back up, coming up between the
second and third bead in the row.
STEP 10
Pass the needle through the third and fourth beads. Continue around in this manner until you have
encircled the entire cabochon.
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STEP 11
Embroider beads on the rest of the Lacy's, using backstitch or stop stitch (see below), using the bugle
beads, pearls and seed beads.
Backstitching: Pass the needle up through the Lacy's Stiff Stuff, string on a bead or two, depending on
size, and pass back down through the Lacy's Stiff Stuff pulling the beads snug against the material.
Pick up two more beads, at the most, and continue in this manner. When backstitching with larger
beads like pearls, larger size 6mm beads, or odd shaped beads, stitch on one bead at a time and pass
through twice. Using the black marker, draw a design to help guide where to place the beads, or make
a random design for a surprise ending.
Stop Stitch: String on a larger bead and one smaller bead (this could be a size 11) which will act as
your stopper. Pass down through the Lacy's Stiff Stuff, skipping over the size 11 bead, pass back
through the larger bead to the underside of the Lacy's Still Stuff. The smaller bead will be sitting on top
of the larger bead.
STEP 12
When the Lacy's is beaded, carefully cut the extra 1/4" of Lacy's Stiff Stuff from the beadwork – don't
cut any of your threads.
STEP 13
Roll a thin layer of glue to the backside of the beadwork, lay the beadwork on top of the brass cuff and
smooth down with your fingers. Allow to dry for 15 minutes.
STEP 14
Start a new thread, and tie an overhand knot at the end. Pass the needle through the beadwork near
the edge and close to the suede.
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STEP 15
Pass the needle through the edge of the suede and then the edge of the beadwork.
STEP 16
Pick up a size 11 seed bead. Pass the needle with the bead, down through the suede, attaching both
layers. Keep tension snug.
STEP 17
Bring the needle back up through the same bead. The bead will stand up on the edge of the cuff.
STEP 18
Pick up another size 11 seed bead and continue around the entire cuff in this manner, using the brick
stitch, sandwiching the bead in between the suede and the beadwork.
STEP 19
When you've stitched on the last bead, meeting the first bead, pass the needle down through the first
bead. Weave the needle through the beadwork and knot off in several places. Clip the thread.
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Weaving: Cross-Over Necklace
From the Fire Mountain Gems and Beads Collection

# 720G
No, you don't have to dash to the attic to hunt for that long lost loom! Weaving is a term that describes
the process of combining beads in a strand by interlacing the thread through the beads. When beads
are joined in this fashion, the effect is delicate and can be rather lacy, depending of course, on the
pattern and the colors of the beads that are thus connected. The following are instructions for the
"cross-over" technique. It is called that because a thread with two needles is used and during the
process of stringing the beads, the two threads cross-over through one or more of the beads.
Bead, mother-of-pearl, 4mm

Carnelian beads, 4mm
Jumprings, 3mm
Clasp
Nylon thread, #2
Headpins
Needles
Glue
Scissors
STEP 1
Center a jumpring on the thread.
STEP 2
With the right hand needle thread on 3 carnelian beads, then a mother-of-pearl bead.
STEP 3
With the left hand needle, thread a carnelian, then mother-of-pearl.
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STEP 4
With the same needle, pass through the center of the mother-of-pearl on the right hand needle.
STEP 5
With a strand in each hand, pull each of the cords to tighten the bead just crossed over.
STEP 6
Continue to thread the remaining beads, following the pattern shown to the right, ending with a
mother-of-pearl.
STEP 7
Slip the other jumpring onto one of the cords, and loop the thread twice around the ring.
STEP 8
Pass this needle through the opposite gold bead, tie a knot, then pass through the pearl and knot once
more.
STEP 9
Repeat Step 10 with the other needle.
STEP 10
Cut the ends of the threads close to the knots, and apply a drop of glue to each knot.
STEP 11
Attach the clasp.
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The Knotted Necklace and Bracelet

# 6919
One of the more elegant presentations of beads or pearls is the single strand with each bead or pearl
individually knotted. Many, but certainly not all, of the beads sold in the finest jewelry stores have been
prepared this way.
Individually knotting has both visual and functional advantages. Visually, the knots serve to separate
each bead, allowing you to see more of each bead. This gives each bead the look of an individual
''work of art.''
Functionally there are two advantages: First, with softer materials such as pearls or malachite, it keeps
the beads from rubbing against each other and wearing excessively. Equally important, when using
valuable beads, is the consideration of what happens if the strand should break while you're whirling
around on the dance floor. With knotted beads you can't lose more than one bead or pearl.
Bead, sterling silver, 6mm seamless smooth round

Silk thread, 48-inches long
French wire
Needles
Double-strand spacer bar, 6mm
Bead tips
Three-strand clasp
Glue
Tweezers
Scissors
Pliers
Necklace
STEP 1
Stringing material: Choose a silk thread that matches the color of your bead and is of sufficient
thickness that a double strand of the silk will fit snugly thru the bead hole. Not too loosely or your knots
will pass thru the bead hole. You will need length of silk approximately six times longer than the length
of the finished strand. For a 18'' (1-1/2-foot) finished necklace start with 9' of silk.
STEP 2
Attach your stringing needle to the double silk and tie the ends together in a simple knot, loosely, to
prevent the beads from slipping off. Leave about 6'' of silk hanging free, this is to allow the French
wire, clasp and final knots to be added later.
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STEP 3
Add on 4 beads. The knotting begins after the fourth bead on the strand.
STEP 4
Make a loose overhand knot in the cord.
STEP 5
When the knot is near the bead, gradually tighten the knot around the tweezer points, (which are
against the adjacent bead), then remove the tweezers.
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STEP 6
Place the tweezers or a pair of pliers to the side of the knot furthest from the bead, and press gently,
but firmly, to tighten the knot securely against the bead.
STEP 7
Add a bead and repeat Steps 4 through 6 until all but the last four beads have been strung.
STEP 8
Add the last four beads.
STEP 9
Cut a length of French wire to about 1/2'' and thread it down so that it rests against the edge of the last
bead. Add the clasp.
STEP 10
Pass the thread down through the last bead, causing the wire to form a loop around the attachment or
the clasp.
STEP 11
Make a knot between the first and second beads.
STEP 12
Pass the thread through the second bead and knot, then the third bead, and knot again.
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STEP 13
After the last knot between has been made between the third and fourth beads, pass the thread
through the next bead, and cut close to the edge of the bead, concealing the end of the strand inside
of the bead.
STEP 14
Apply a small drop of glue to each of the knots just made.
STEP 15
Remove the temporary knot on the other end. (Some bead stringers use an alligator clip instead of a
temporary knot).
STEP 16
Repeat Steps 9 thru 14 on the other end.
STEP 17
Put on some sharp clothes to wear with your elegant creation and take yourself someplace really nice
for lunch, you deserve it!
Bracelet
The separator serves to hold the strands parallel to each other, and add to the visual impact of the
overall design. When working the separator into the pattern, the strands are beaded then passed
through the individual holes of the separator simultaneously.
Note: When using round or oval style, three-strand clasps you may find the top and bottom
attachments are closer to the center of the clasp then the center attachment. To get the beads to line
up, start and finish the top and bottom strands with a 2 mm bead.
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STEP 1
Divide each strand as follows:
• 7 of the beads
• 11 of the beads
• 7 of the beads
STEP 2
Lay the strands out, side by side one above the other, to ensure that the corresponding beads in each
strand are in identical alignment. If not, switch beads around until they are.
STEP 3
Attach a bead tip to one end of each strand following instructions for Using Bead Tips.
STEP 4
Thread on a bead, and following steps previously given, tie a knot.
STEP 5
Repeat Step 5 six more times, for a total of seven beads with knots after each bead.
STEP 6
Pass the thread of one strand through one of the holes in the separator. Repeat with the other strand.
Knot each strand to secure the separator.
STEP 7
Thread 11 beads onto each of the strands, knotting after each bead.
STEP 8
Repeat Step 6.
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STEP 9
Thread on and knot seven beads to the end of each strand.
STEP 10
Attach a bead tip to each strand.
STEP 11
Attach the bead tip at the end of each three strand to the corresponding loops on the three strand
clasp.
STEP 12
Repeat with the bead tips on the other end of the strands, making sure that both sections of the clasp
are facing the same direction, either up or down and all four bead tips are facing downward, towards
the wrist of the wearer.
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Eye of the Tiger Pendant
by Kathy Weaver
# 6A1Q
You can create this cane using any contrasting colors of Kato Polyclay™; however, the metallic colors
offer a unique benefit if you manipulate the clay to capture the ''mica shift'' -- a process that aligns the
mica found in metallic and pearl colored Kato Polyclay™ -- for a look you'll be wild about!
Black Kato Polyclay

Metallic gold Kato Polyclay
Clear plastic roller, approx. 6in
Kato Polyclay blade sample set
Polyclay rolling machine, approximately 7-3/4 x 7-1/2 x 5 inches

Needle files, 5-3/4in long
Ruler
320-, 400-, and 600-grit sandpaper
See this piece in the Gallery of Designs
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STEP 1
Condition 1/3 package of gold clay and 1/3 package of black clay.
Create a simple checkerboard cane
STEP 2
Roll out a sheet of each color on the lowest (or thickest) setting of your rolling machine. Cut the black
sheet in half and stack the sheets on top of each other for a double layer of black. Repeat, to create a
double layer of gold.
Place your gold clay on top of the black clay and trim the ends. Cut this stack in half and stack again.
You should have a striped loaf of black and gold.
STEP 3
Using a ruler, mark six lines 1/4 inch apart on the stacked loaf and cut along the marks making six
equal slices. Reassemble the slices into a loaf, reversing every other slice. The reassembled cane
should look like a checkerboard.
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STEP 4
Reduce the cane so it's approximately 3/4 inch wide.
STEP 5
Hold the cane on the diagonal so it is diamond-shaped. Flatten the cane with the palm of your hand.
Use an acrylic rod to help flatten the cane evenly, so that you can comfortably run it through your
rolling machine.
STEP 6
Run the flattened cane through your rolling machine. You should have a long strip of clay.
Unlike other Ikat canes, I only run this through the rolling machine once. Doing it too many times will
make the Ikat design smaller which doesn't work as well with mica shift.
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STEP 7
Cut the rolled strip in half, then stack the halves.
Cut the doubled strip in half and restack. Do this one more time, and you'll have Ikat cane.
Once you've made the cane, the trick to making it look fabulous is bringing up the gold micas.
STEP 8
Cut off a thick slice of your cane (around 1/4 inch thick) and run it through the rolling machine on the
thickest setting.
Set your rolling machine down one setting, then turn your cane slice ¼ turn. Put the slice through the
rolling machine, stretching the cane slice out further. Continue turning your cane slice and taking down
the settings two more times, until you have a thin cane slice.
Stretching out the cane slice and running it through the rolling machine should have brought up the
micas in the clay. Trim off the ragged edges on the sides and cut your thin piece of clay into 4-5
pieces.
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Making an Ikat bead
STEP 9
Make a ball of scrap clay, slightly smaller than you would like your finished bead. Begin wrapping one
of the slices of cane around the scrap clay. Continue adding slices randomly, making sure to cover the
entire scrap clay core.
If you need more cane slices, cut another thick slice and make more like the one above.
STEP 10
After you have your bead core completely covered, roll the bead in your hands to smooth all the
seams, then form your bead shape.
With a bead this size, I usually put the bead down on my clean work surface and flatten a little with the
palm of my hand.
Work with the clay until you get a shape you're pleased with.
STEP 11
Use a needle tool or toothpick to put a hole through the bead, wherever you want one. At this time,
smooth your bead out as much as you can to eliminate finishing time later.
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STEP 12
To create a long paddle bead, use the same technique to make a thin slice of cane, and trim off the
edges as before. Make a small log (about 1/4 inch in diameter) of scrap clay, and lay it on to the cane
slice. Wrap the cane slice around the clay log.
STEP 13
Use your fingers to pinch the cane slice down around the ends of the cane and smooth the seam with
your fingers.
Lay the bead on your work surface and slightly flatten with the palm of your hand.
Use a needle tool to put holes in your beads.
STEP 14
To continue bringing out the micas, wet sand your bead. Using wet-dry sandpaper, and sanding with
water, gently sand your bead, first with 320-grit sandpaper, then 400-grit sandpaper, and last with 600-
grit sandpaper. Use a soft cloth or buffing wheel to bring up the shine. I find if I've sanded well, rubbing
the bead on my denim jeans helps bring up the shine easily.
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Lattice Bracelet Design
Pattern provided by CJ David

# 7254
The Lattice Design is unique. It produces a balanced design, exactly the same on both sides. By using
two needles working back and forth as seen in the illustrations, each side will be even; allowing for
concentration on design.
Color Code:
(A) Transparent dark green
(B) Transparent gold
(C) Opaque green
(D) Matte yellow
Wax approximatly 3 feet of thread.
Thread 2 needles, one at each end.
Seed Beads
Lattice Bracelets; Beadwork Book I by CJ David
STEP 1
Begin with 2(A), 1(B), 2(A), 1(B), 4(A), 2(B).
STEP 2
Circle around to pick up the last single colored bead.
At this point, leave the end of one thread longer than the other so that further on, thread can be added
at different places.
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STEP 3
Add 3(B), pick up second single color.
STEP 4
Add 2(B). Leave this needle.
STEP 5
Pick up the second needle. Add 2(A), go through last bead on other thread.
From this point and throughout your work, pull beads together firmly from time to time.
STEP 6
Add 2(B), 1(C) and join a second row.
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STEP 7
Add 1(C), 2(B) and join a second row.
STEP 8
Turning into the fourth row, add 2(A), 2(B). Join to a third row.
STEP 9
Add 1(C), 1(D), 1(C). Join to a third row.
STEP 10
Add 2(B). Leave this needle.
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STEP 11
Pick up the first needle. Add 2(A). Go through the last bead on the other thread.
STEP 12
Repeat steps 6-11 until desired length.
STEP 13
Add 3(B).
STEP 14
Add 3(B).
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STEP 15
Add 4(A).
STEP 16
Add 2(A).
STEP 17
Add 4(A).
Tighten thread and tie together into a square knot. To hide ends, work thread back through about 12
to 15 beads and cut ends carefully close to work. Route each thread through a different path following
an already worked thread.
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That Beaded Hair Thingie that Jody Foster wore in Contact
By Kathy Rice
# 63EL
Start by threading 2 lengths of thread measuring approximately 2 yards each through 2 needles as in
the illustrations.
10 - glass beads, 6mm

About 2 yards of D size thread, doubled
2 - size 10 needles
1 - hair stick (I like the African Porcupine Quills the best, be sure to snip off both ends and file
smooth before using)
4mm beads (If making a bracelet)
In the illustrations below, the green arrow represents the direction of needle A and the red arrow
represents the direction of needle B.
Just follow the steps shown in the illustrations below. When you are finished, weave your threads back
through your bead and tie off.
This design makes a great bracelet also, just use size 4mm beads and make it long enough to go
around your wrist.
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STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
231
STEP 6
STEP 7
STEP 8
STEP 9
STEP 10
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STEP 11
STEP 12
STEP 13
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STEP 14
Omni-Gel Photo-Transfer Liquid ~ Instructions

# 63EN
Omni-Gel
1/4" or 1/2" brush for applying Omni-Gel. You can use nylon watercolor brush, foam brush, or a foam
roller. Each one will give a different texture to the Omni-Gel as it dries. If working a large surface area,
you may want to use a 1 to 3 inch brush)
Lint free towel
Tray or bowl with cold water

Items with flat surface to accept photo transfer
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See this design, 631S in the Gallery of Designs
See this design, 631R in the Gallery of Designs
Image Transfer Steps
STEP 1
Find images of interest. These can be anything from magazines* or books*, or good quality photo
copies of treasured photos with laser printer. (Do not use original photographs.)
*Please be sure not to violate any copyright restrictions.
STEP 2
Place on a clean surface. (Put down freezer paper or newspaper to protect work surface.)
STEP 3
Apply the first thin coat of Omni-Gel directly to the image with a nylon brush. Work vertically (up and
down), and cover the entire surface to be transferred plus about 1/2 inch past the transfer area, always
brushing up and down. Let dry.
Please Note: The thickness of your layers of Omni-Gel, along with temperature and humidity will
determine how long each layer of Omni-Gel will need to dry. In most cases, when the Omni-Gel is
completely translucent, it is dry and you can proceed with the next step.
235
STEP 4
Apply a second thin coat with nylon brush, perpendicular to the first coat. (Horizontally, or side to side.)
Let dry.
STEP 5
Apply the final thin coat of Omni-Gel with a nylon brush, going diagonally (top to bottom - at an angle).
Let dry completely (at least 6 hours).
STEP 6
After dried, trim off excess transfer material from your flat surface. Now you are ready to use the photo
transfer piece in jewelry or craft projects.
236
Applying Transfers
STEP 1
Trim away extra paper from images leaving a 1/4" border around image.
STEP 2
Place transfer, image gloss side up, in cold water for about 20 minutes.
STEP 3
Take transfer image from water and place image side down on plastic tray, vinyl tablecloth, etc.
STEP 4
Make sure image is smoothed down and is in contact with tray. If it’s not, the image can stretch while
removing the paper.
STEP 5
Use your finger to roll away the paper from the back of the image. (Keeping the image moist while
removing the paper helps.)
STEP 6
When the majority of the paper is gone, use a lint free towel to clean off the rest.
STEP 7
Place on flat surface and allow to dry.
STEP 8
To mount on surface, use Omni-Gel as glue and paint a thin layer on the flat surface receiving the
transfer. For a brush stroke effect, place the Omni-Gel coated side up, for smoother effect, place
Omni-Gel coated side down.
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STEP 9
Press surfaces together eliminating all air bubbles. Use your fingers or a foam roller if you wish. After
thoroughly dried, trim off any excess with sharp scissors.
Tips
Work on a clean flat surface.
Use a plastic tray, vinyl tablecloth, etc. to clean the image before adhering transfer. This reduces the
possibility of the Omni-Gel material stretching and distorting the image.
Plan to apply Omni-Gel to a large number of images to give plenty of style choices.
Protect work surface (Omni-Gel is also a great glue). Use a nylon brush and clean with warm soapy
water after use.
Please Note: In most cases your transfer is translucent. Some card stock and buffed papers may
leave a white finish on the back of the transfers. These will inhibit the clarity of the transfer. To correct,
paint on a coat on Omni-Gel and let dry.
Beaded Gourd ~ The latest sensation in crafting!

# 63EP
Double sided, pressure sensitive adhesive products create an immediate strong bond for beads,
glitter, sand, foil stencils, fabric, ribbon, tissue paper, glass, wood, paper, cardstock, felt, foam and
more. No need for messy glues. These double sided tape products are fast and easy to use.
238
Adhesive sheets: Used when covering a large surface area such as a vase, picture frame, or note
card.
Solid Tape and Dot Tape: Use in projects such as glitter pens, trim on cards or ribbon, borders on
printed material and business cards. Tape is solid adhesive. Dot tape has a tiny pattern of sticky dots
over its surface.
Peel and stick adhesive dot tape

Peel and stick adhesive sheets
Peel and stick adhesive tape

Seed Beads
STEP 1
Remove one side of protective paper and apply adhesive side to an object.
STEP 2
Here we have a writing pen being wrapped against the sticky side.
239
STEP 3
Remove outer protective paper.
STEP 4
Apply beads or glitter by rolling or placing beads on sticky surface.
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Create Your Own Dichroic-Look Glass

# 63EA
Use Art Glass, Luminous Elements and Liquid Glass fixative to design your own dichroic glass look-
alikes! It's fast, easy, fun and economical!
Faux Dichro Liquid Glass

Art Glass
Luminous Elements
STEP 1
Choose from six colors of art glass. Pieces are freeform to allow design creativity.
241
STEP 2
Add, combine or mix snips of Luminous Elements sheets on to the top of the art glass.
STEP 3
Apply several thin coats of Liquid Glass to the surface for a glass-like finish.
STEP 4
Allow to dry and style into popular wire-wrapped or set jewelry.
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Embellished Hand Bag
Tamara L. Honaman, Media Content Manager

# 722V
So you say you need something snazzy for that holiday party but the bag you used last year just won't
do. Or you saw a bag for sale that would be perfect if it only had more pizzazz. Well, here's a great
project to dress up any bag in no time.
Size 11 Delica beads in gold red luster (or color of your choice)
6, 12x6mm garnet (or color to match Delicas) briolettes
1, 16x8mm garnet (or color to match Delicas) briolettes
1 strand, 3mm round garnet (or color to match Delicas and briolettes)
Nymo® D (I used black but you can choose a color to match the beads you choose and the fabric
on the bag)
#12 beading needle

Scissors
Beeswax to condition your thread
Flat or chain-nose pliers
Hand bag - either one you have or one purchased separately at your local accessories or clothing
store
243
STEP 1
Cut 2 yards of Nymo® then thread on your needle; double the thread. Run the doubled length of
Nymo® along the beeswax. This will condition the thread and help it pass through the beads more
smoothly.
Beginning at one corner of the bag, pass the needle from the back side of the top edge through to the
front; leave a 3" tail.
For the first loop, pick up eight Delicas, one 3mm garnet, and eight Delicas. Pass the needle into the
fabric about 3/4" from where your loop started (this should give your loop a nice drape). Bring the
needle back out of the fabric about 2mm from where you entered. (I used the manufacture's stitches
as my guide and made each loop 5 stitches wide.)
STEP 2
Continue to add the same size loops all the way down the length of the bag.
Anchor the last loop of your first row by passing the needle through the top edge of the bag, from the
front to the back side. Pass the needle back out to the front, just above the last bead added.
244
STEP 3
Bring the needle back through the last eight Delicas and 3mm garnet bead added. Pick up six Delicas,
one 3mm garnet bead, and six Delicas. Pass the needle through the next to last 3mm garnet bead
added in Step 2.
STEP 4
Continue this pattern across the length of the bag.
STEP 5
Work the needle up the beads to the first bead added. Pass the needle through the top edge of the
bag, from the front to the back side, near where you began in Step 1. Tie a surgeon's knot using the
tail thread and your working thread.
245
Work the needle back down the beads so it exits the last 3mm garnet bead added and is in position to
begin the next row.
Pick up eight Delicas, one 3mm garnet bead, and 8 Delicas. Pass through the next-to-last 3mm garnet
bead added in Step 4. Continue adding loops across the front of the bag.
STEP 6
After you complete the last loop of the row, work the needle up through previous rows then back down
so the needle exits the last 3mm garnet bead added, and is in position to begin the next row.
STEP 7
Pick up ten Delicas, one 12x6mm garnet briolette, and ten Delicas. Pass the needle through the next-
to-last 3mm garnet bead added.
246
STEP 8
Work this pattern across the front of the bag, using the 16x8mm garnet briolette in the loop that falls in
the center of the bag.
Please note: Based on the length of the bag I used, the number of stitches in the manufactured seam
along the top edge, and the design I was looking for, I chose the pattern outlined here. You may need
to alter the pattern to meet the size of your bag and/or the beads you use.
Enjoy your Embellished Hand Bag and all the compliments you'll receive!
Amulet Bag
by Debbie Vasilinda
# 6723
Brickstitch a brightly colored amulet bag and matching earrings.
Bead this colorful bag from Beadcoop author Debbie Vasilinda. Brick stitch the body, whip stitch the
edges, then add the fringe and strap. The pattern is included for both bag and earrings.
Project name: Amulet Bag and Earrings
247
Seed Beads
248
Seed Beads
DB200
DB211
249
DB242
DB301
250
DB306
DB307
251
DB310
DB311
252
DB312
DB321
253
DB322
DB325
DB761
254
DB769
DB863
255
DB287
DB10
256
DB01
Hex Cut Seed Bead Earrings
# 6728
This earring pattern uses hex cut seed beads in a fashionable Southwest design. Download the
pattern and get started!
257
Seed Beads
258
Diary "Being Intimate"
Courtesy of Swarovski®
# 747L
Get inspired by Swarovski® design team's limitless imagination. Magical project ideas bring a new
dimension to simple techniques. (Project provided by Swarovski® and does not include materials list.)
Swarovski® crystal beads and components
Shop by color - Swarovski® crystal components
259
STEP 1
260
STEP 2
261
STEP 3
STEP 4
262
STEP 5
STEP 6
263
STEP 7
STEP 8
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STEP 9
265
STEP 10
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STEP 11
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STEP 12
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Bead Patterns
African Helix Beaded Necklace
Beautiful Beaded Cord
I learned this neat beading stitch from Carol Wilcox Wells' book Creative Bead Weaving
but I believe that it was first described in the book "Those Bad Bad Beads." by Virginia
Blakelock. These are both excellent books, must-haves for any beadwork library.
The stitch is unique in that it's the only one I know in which the beads are only gone
through once, when you first pick them up. All the actual weaving is done by looping over
the thread. This makes for a very flexible, comfy tube that makes a wonderful necklace
embellished or plain. I'll include some links to examples of work done using this stitch at
the bottom of this article so you can get a better idea of what it looks like and what can
be done with it.
First of all you'll need a support to work around. A regular old pencil should be the
perfect size for the number of beads we'll be using. Now choose two colors of size 11
seed beads that look nice together. One for the "spines" (the solid lines that spiral
around the outside of the helix) and one for the background color. I used a matte dark
green for the spines and red-lined green for the background. The dark green beads
turned black in the scan and they actually look better that way.
String on 4 repeats of 3 background color and 1 spine color for a total of 16 beads. Tie
the beads in a circle and roll the circle of beads onto a pencil. It should be pretty tight
because the first row is smaller than all the others and if it isn't tight it won't give much
support for the subsequent rows. Make sure you align your beads on the pencil as shown
in the illustration, with the color sequence going from right to left.
Pick up 3 background color beads and 2 spine beads. Take your needle and slide it down
behind the thread between the 4th and 5th beads in the base row. Make sure you always
go down behind the thread from top to bottom, it doesn't work the other way around.
Hold the stitch down with your thumb while you pull your thread through. Your tension
should be kept very firm throughout. Ideally it should be tight enough that you can feel
the thread pop into place between the beads.
The white dot marks the first bead in the base row. Complete the second row by adding 3
more stitches in the same manner, picking up 3 background beads, 2 spine beads and
going under the thread between each 4th and 5th bead.
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This next illustration shows the completed 2nd row and the first stitch of the 3rd row.
The white dots mark the first beads in the 1st and 2nd rows. I turned the pencil a bit so
that you can see the first stitch of the 3rd row clearly. Pick up 3 background beads and 2
spine beads. Go down behind the thread between the 3rd background color bead and the
1st spine bead in the stitch to the left of your thread.
Again, pick up 3 background beads and 2 spine beads and go down behind the thread
between the 3rd background color bead and the first spine bead in the next stitch to the
left. Continue adding stitches in this manner until your helix reaches the required length.
Some people take the tube off of the support after a couple of inches but this didn't work
for me at all. I kept it on the pencil the whole time and just pushed it up to make room
as I went along.
To finish the end to match the beginning, add a final round of 4 stitches using only 3
background beads and one spine bead in each stitch. Then run through the four final
stitches and tighten. Then weave back into the work to secure. You may wish to run
thread through each spine from end to end to strengthen the tube. To join the two ends
to make a continuous loop you need to first remove the first row of sixteen beads you
added (do not finish add the extra row of 4 bead stitches if you plan to do this). You will
probably need to remove more than the first row to get enough thread to work with. Try
to remove stitches in groups of four at a time.
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Then you must match up the spines then weave the ends together. This is much easier to
do if you put both ends on your support. Use a short pencil for this. If the ends don't
match up correctly, you may need to add another stitch or two. When you have the
spines lined up, come out of the end of one of the spines and go down into the end of the
corresponding spine. Then use a group of 3 background beads to cross to the next spine
and go up through the end of it and into the end of the spine on the other side. Continue
doing this until all the spines are connected.
African Net Bead Necklace

A Free Bead Pattern designed by Emily Hackbarth
Taking the steps individually is the key to making this African Net beading project work.
Before you start, make sure you have all of your supplies on hand including the thread of
your choice, a beading needle and few grams of either Delica or size 11/0 seed beads.
Step 1: To begin, pick up one bead and go through it twice to secure it. Then pick up 11
more beads and go back through the 7th from the end.
Step 2: Now pick up 4 more beads and go down through your start bead (the very first
one you picked up).
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Step 3: Pick up 9 more beads and go up through the 7th from the end.
Step 4: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from where your thread is
coming out.
Step 5: Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 4th bead up from your thread.
Step 6: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 2nd of the 3 beads you just added.
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Step 7: Pick up another 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down from the bead
your thread is coming out of.
Step 8: Pick up 5 beads and go down through the 6th bead down from your thread.
Step 9: Pick up 6 beads and go back through the 4th from the end.
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Step 10: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from your thread. (Note
that except for the turns at the top and bottom, you always skip the same number of
beads as you are adding.)
Step 11: Again, pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from the bead your
thread is coming out of.
Step 12: Now pick up 3 beads and go up through the 4th bead up.
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Step 14: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down from the bead your
thread is coming out of.
Step 15: Pick up 5 beads and go down through the 6th down from your thread.
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Step 16: Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 3rd bead of the 5 you just added.
Step 18: Pick up 3 beads and go through the 4th bead up.
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Step 20: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down.
Step 21: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 2nd bead from the top of the 4 you just
added.
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From here, continue from step 2 on. For the purposes of step two, treat the bead marked
with a white dot in the above illustration as though it were the start bead.
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Elephant Pattern
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Men's Bracelet
This bracelet is made from a double zigzag pattern I learned from Horace Goodhue's Indian
Bead-Weaving Patterns. He credits the design to Karen Swan, a Lakota artist.
What You'll Need:
• Size 11 seed beads in permanent finish bronze, opaque medium blue, opaque black,
and opaque reddish brown.
• Size B black nylon beading thread
• Size 12 needle
• Lobster claw clasp
To begin, pick up 9 black beads and 3 blue ones, do not tie a knot yet. Go back through the
4th from the last black bead.
Pick up 2 brown beads and 3 bronze beads. Go forward through the first of the nine black
beads you added in the previous step. Tie a square knot with the two ends of your thread.
Leave a few inches free on the loose end so that you can weave it in later.
[Repeat from the beginning of this step]

Pick up 3 black beads and three bronze beads and go down through the third bronze bead
down in the previous row.
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Pick up 2 brown and 3 blue and go down through the 3rd blue bead in the previous row
Pick up 3 black, 1 bronze, 2 brown and go up through the 4th blue bead from the bottom in
the previous row.
Pick up 3 blue and 2 brown and go up through the top bronze bead in the previous row.
Pick up 3 black and 3 blue and go down through the first blue bead in the previous row.
Pick up 2 brown beads and 3 bronze beads and go down through the single bronze bead at the
bottom of the previous row.
Repeat from where it says "repeat from the beginning of this step" until you reach the length
you need. Men's bracelets are usually about 7 to 8 inches long. You will note the each row
alternates direction and consists of two stitches, one of six beads and one of five. End the
bracelet with a downward traveling row of six black, and then another five black to complete
the black edging around the piece.The stitches are attached in the same manner as the others,
down through the fourth bead from the top (counting the bead your thread is coming out of),
and down though the sixth bead from there. To add a clasp, make a loop with the 4 center
beads of your final row, 3 more black beads, the clasp, and another 3 black beads. Go around
the loop as many times as you can and then weave back into the bracelet a short way. Then tie
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the loose end around the thread between two beads, weave into the work a few more inches
and trim. Attach the other half of the clasp to the opposite end of the bracelet in the same
manner.
Picot Beaded Edging

Beaded Edging for Fabric
You've probably seen this style of beaded edging before. Variations on it are often used
to decorate the edges of leather pouches, cabochons and sometimes even to bind the
edges of flat peyote amulet bags. It's very simple to do and adds a nice bit of sparkle
without having to worry about it catching on anything.
Secure your thread to the inside of the fabric just as your normally would when sewing.
Try to get it as close to the edge as you can without having the knot show or come loose.
Pick up one bead and bring your needle through the fabric from back to front. Again this
needs to be as close to the edge as possible. If it's too far away, the thread will show and
the fabric will pucker.
Now bring your needle up through the bead you just added so that it lies flat atop the
edge of the seam.
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Pick up two more beads. Thread through the fabric from back to front once again leaving
enough space for one bead next to the first one you attached. Thread your needle up
through the 2nd of the two beads you just added.The first bead and the third one should
snug up together with the third one centered vertically above them.
Now it should look like this. To continue, simply repeat the steps in the previous
paragraph as many times as needed.
Scalloped Horizontal Net
This pattern makes a really sweet scalloped edge. It makes me think of baby bonnets. :-)
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Attach your thread to the back of the seam as close to the edge as possible. Pick up a bead and
go through the fabric from back to front. Then bring your thread up through the bead so that it
lies flat across the edge of the seam. Look at the picot edging instructions for a diagram of this
process. Pick up six more beads and attach the sixth to the seam in the same manner. Leave a
¼ inch gap between the first bead you attached and this one. Continue adding groups of six
beads along the entire edge. If the seam is continuous, connect the last section to the first by
picking up 5 beads instead of six and going up through the anchor bead of the first group.
When you finish the row position your thread so that it's coming out of the center bead of one
of the arcs in the previous row. If your edge is continuous, simply go through the fabric below
the anchor bead your thread is coming out of and go up through the anchor bead and the next
3 beads in the arc. If your edge is not continuous, you will need to skip the anchor bead and
go back through the last three beads you added. Once your thread is in position, pick up 5
beads and go through the center bead of the next arc. Do this twice more for a total of three
new arcs. Instead of adding a fourth arc, go down through the side of the arc next to your
thread, down through the anchor bead, through the fabric, up through the anchor bead, and up
through the side of the next arc. Bring your thread out of the center bead. Continue adding
groups of three arcs and skipping each fourth space to complete the row.
The third row is constructed the same way, except this time you only add two arcs atop the set
of three you added in the last row. For the final row, add one arc of 4 beads between the two
you added in the previous row.
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nterlocking Loops
This pattern is anchored differently than the previous two. Attach your thread and bring your
needle out through the edge of the seam. Pick up a bead and go down through the edge of the
seam to the left of where your thread is coming out. Come back up through the edge to the
right of where you went into it and go left through the bead.
Pick up 15 beads and make a loop by going left through the anchor bead again. Continue up
and around through the first 8 of the 15 you just added.
Pick up 20 more beads and anchor the last of them by going down through the fabric one half
inch to the right, coming back up through the fabric just to the right of where you went in, and
going left through the bead.
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Pick up 7 beads and go to the right through the 12th of the 20 you just added forming your
second loop. Repeat the instructions contained in this and the previous paragraph until you
reach the end of the seam.
Vertical Net
This net is anchored the same way as the first two were. Attach your thread on the inside of
the seam near the top. Pick up a bead and go through the fabric from back to front very near
the edge. Go up through the bead you just added. Pick up one green, 3 blue, 1 green, 3 blue, 1
green, 3 blue, and 4 green.
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Repeat from here on.
Go back down through the 1st of the four green to form the diamond shape at the end.
Pick up 3 blue, 1 green and 3 more blue. Go down through the second green bead from the
bottom in the first row of beads you added. Pick up 3 more blue and 1 green. Attach the green
bead the same way you attached the first anchor bead leaving a ¼ inch gap between the two.
Pick up 3 blue, 1 green and 3 more blue and go up through the 9th bead from the bottom of
the previous row (hint: it's a green one ;-). Pick up three blue and 4 green. Repeat from where
is says Repeat from here on.
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Elegant Netted Bead Collar
Beaded with size 11/0 Beads
This complex looking, elegant netted bead collar uses size 11/0 seed beads and is
actually quite easy to make. It's really just a matter of counting, and once you get going,
you don't have to count any higher than 22! (g) Can't you just see it adorning the neck
of your favorite little (or big!) girl's velvet Christmas dress?
To begin, pick up 60 size 11 beads in a color of your choice. I used AB transparent teal in
the necklace pictured. Counting from the end, go back up through the 29th and 30th
beads. They are marked on the diagram in pink.
Now pick up ten, skip ten, and go through the 11th and 12th.
Then pick up 8 and skip 8. Go through the 9th and 10th.
Pick up 6, skip 6, and go through the last two.
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Now we are going to change directions. Pick up 6. Skip four beads from where your
thread is coming out and go through the 5th and 6th.
Pick up 6, skip 6 and go through the next two.
Skip 10, pick up 10, go through the next two.
Same as the last step. Skip 10, pick up 10, go through the next two.
Pick up 22 and go up through the 5th and 6th of the beads you added in the previous
step.
Beginning with the step just completed, the sequence of stitches repeats. Going left, the
sequence is 22 (just completed), 10, 8, 6. Going right, it's 6, 6, 10, 10. Simply continue
going back and forth adding rows until it's big enough.
This pattern can be used to make a necklace or a collar. For a necklace, simply add a
clasp. For a collar, you could either sew the work directly to a garment, or add a series of
hooks and eyes to both the collar and the garment. That way you could wash the
garment separately from the beadwork.
A neat variation would be to fade from one color to another from top to bottom. I would
go from light to dark, but it's up to you! I'm sure you can come up with some other great
variations. I'd love to hear about them if you do. Have fun!
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Orca Beaded Amulet Bag
Bead a Tribute to these Majestic Whales in Peyote Stitch
Orcas, also known as Killer Whales, are some of the most intelligent and beautiful beings
on our planet. This bag is my small tribute to their grace and brilliance. I will share the
pattern for the body of the bag and some tips for construction this week and return next
week with the strap, fringe, and any other embellishments I come up with.
I used a photo of an orca to get the shape and coloring of the whale, then made up a
repeating design to fill in the remaining space. The idea was to suggest the ocean and
give the background some visual interest without detracting from the whale in the
foreground. My taste tends toward strong contrasts and iconic imagery so that's what I
went for here. The picture doesn't show the background very well, it's subtle, but not
that subtle.
I used matte transparent dark blue and aqua, opaque white and jet 3-cuts, but I think
this bag would look even better in Delicas. Either way, I'd skip the 3-cuts if I were you,
they are nice and sparkly, but insanely irregular and tend to distort the fabric a bit.
This bag is beaded in Even Count Tubular Peyote Stitch.
You may find it difficult to keep track of the background pattern, especially if you use the
same beads shown here. It is helpful to is indentify the repeating color sequence in each
row as you go. For example, the sequence for the top row (where the tip of the tail ends)
is light, dark, light, light, dark. Each row has a repeating 5 bead sequence of light and
dark. The sequence is interrupted by the whale, but continues as if it hadn't been, so you
can just count the black and white beads as if they were blue ones to get back on track
again.
Before you start, decide which end (top or bottom) you will start from and use a ruler to
draw a diagonal line from your first bead across the pattern. This will help you keep track
of where each row begins and ends. Have fun!
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Beaded Rings and Beaded Headbands
Quick and Simple Beaded Projects
It's actually a ton of fun making these simple rings. Kids will love them and I bet you will
too. They're great for using up dabs of leftover beads. Here's how you make 'em:
First pick out a big bead for the center. "Big" is a relative term, anywhere from 4 to
10mm will work, but you'll want to scale your ring beads to fit the size of your center
bead. For a very large center bead use size 6 ring beads, for a small one, use size 10 or
11 seed beads. Use doubled thread for this project. Pick up enough ring beads to reach
from the hole halfway around the center bead, and the center bead. Then pick up the
same number of ring beads minus one. Go back through the first ring bead you picked up
in the first set of ring beads. Tie the short end and the long end of your thread together
in a square knot.
Now pick up enough beads to fit around your finger and around half the center bead. Go
through the center bead.
Pick up the same number of beads as you picked up in the second set of ring beads in
the first step. Count down the number of beads you just picked up from the center bead
back on the other side and re-enter the next bead back.
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Continue through the entire ring loop and up around one side of the center bead. Pick up
one ring bead and go into the bead just across from the bead you left to bridge the gap.
If that doesn't quite fill it, use two beads instead. Continue through the whole ring again
and come up the other side of the center bead and bridge the gap on the other side.
Continue through the ring again if possible to strengthen it. If you are using larger beads,
go through the ring as many times as possible. On your final pass, tie off around the ring
threads then complete the pass. Weave in the short end and you're done. You'll be
amazed at how well the ring will hold it's shape!
This ring is a little more complicated but it's still relatively simple to make. You will need
to know how to do brick stitch.
Again you'll need to choose a large center bead and some seed beads. I used a 8mm
round bead for the center and size 11 seeds for the ring. If you use different sizes you
will have to adjust the pattern accordingly.
This time we'll start with the part that goes around the back of your finger. Pick up two
seed beads and tie them in a circle. Go up through the bead on the right. Pick up two
more beads and go down through the bead on the left then back up through the bead on
the right and the new bead above it. Pick up two more beads and go down through the
upper-most bead on the left then up through the bead to the right and the new bead
above it. Continue stacking pairs of beads this way until you have a strip that will reach
around 3/4s of your finger.
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Now treat the final two beads you added as the base row for brick stitch and add 3 rows
of normally increasing brick stitch. The 3rd row should have 5 beads in it. Now work 4
rows of 2 beads each up from the left side of the 5 bead row as if you were increasing at
the end of a row (you are!:-)). Then thread back down to the 5 bead row and weave to
the other side of it and work 4 2 bead rows up the left side increasing at the beginning of
each row. Then thread through the whole thing to get to the other end of the band and
do the same thing on the other side.
Connect the large bead to each side of the ring in the manner shown below.
Now connect the two sides using the thread path shown below. If you have room left, go
ahead and thread through the band to reinforce.
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Now for a couple of headband ideas. Believe it or not, the idea for these came from a
discount store! The first one was made from tacky plastic beads and elastic thread, but
we'll make it with nicer beads and one of the elastic jewelry cords available.
This sample uses size 6 Japanese beads but you could even use semi precious stone
beads if the holes were large enough. You need beads with larger holes because the
elastic beading cord is quite a bit thicker than regular beading thread. The holes in size 6
beads are perfect. To make this headband use these flat netting instructions to make a
strip 3 sets wide and long enough to fit around your head from top to bottom.
Connect the two ends of the strip to make a continuous ring. Do this by adding the beads
needed to complete the net sections between the two edges. The following diagram
shows how this is done. The black beads represent the beads added to connect the two
ends.
This headband is *really* simple. Make two daisy chains (with regular beading thread)
using these directions for Daisy Chains, Open and Closed. Make them long enough to
reach from just behind one ear, over the top of your head to just behind the other ear.
Then sew the ends to a length of heavy elastic long enough to reach the rest of the way
around your head. It should be just snug enough to hold your hair back. Try to find
elastic that matches the main color in your daisy chain or, failing that, one that matches
the hair color of the person who will be wearing the headband.
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Red, White, Blue Beaded Bracelet Pattern
Patriotic Bracelet Pattern
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Seahorse Love Beaded Amulet Bag
Free Bead Pattern
The idea for this cute little bag came as a result of watching a PBS special about
seahorses. Seahorses are charming creatures, they sometimes intertwine their tails as
part of their mating. This article will teach the constructions on the bag, the second
article will cover the completion plus the strap and fringe.
What You'll Need
• 3 colors of size 11 Japanese seed beads. I used matte transparent light brown for
the seahorses, black opaque for their eyes, and iridescent matte black for the
background.
• Size D white beading thread.
• Size 12 beading needle.
• Bees Wax or Thread Heaven (optional)
TThe stitch used in this project is Tubular brick stitch. is fun to work with and easier for
many people than tubular peyote. Keeping proper tension is much less of a problem and
the transition from one row to the next is far more obvious. The pattern for the bag is at
the bottom of this page; the first section will cover the basics of tubular brick stitch.
As with any brick stitch project, the tubular variation begins with a base row. To start the
base row, pick up the first two beads and tie them together in a loop so that the beads
sit with their edges flush. Leave a tail several inches long to weave back in later. Pass the
needle up through the second bead. Pick up another bead and go back and up through
the second bead and down through the new one.
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Continue adding beads by picking up one bead at a time and looping through the
previous bead from the side opposite where the thread exits. Then, prepare for the next
bead by going through the new bead from the side the thread is now on.
When the base row is completed, first match up the two ends making sure that the row is
not twisted. Orient the row so that the thread is hanging down on the left hand side. Go
up through the first bead, down through the last bead, and up through the first bead
again. This will position the work and the thread for the second row.
To start the second row, pick up the first two beads of the second row of the pattern.
Pass the needle under the thread that crosses between the second and third beads in the
previous row.
Then go up through the second of the two beads just added. This is slightly different than
the standard method for brick stitch; it has the advantage of not leaving any thread
showing at the beginning of the row.)
Subsequent beads are added by picking up a bead, passing under the thread that
stretches between the bead the thread is exiting and the bead next to it, and going back
up through the bead just added. For a more detailed explanation see this tutorial How To
Do Brick Stitch.
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When all of the beads have been added in the second row, connect the last bead to the
first by passing the needle down through the first bead and then up through the last
bead.
Continue adding rows in the same manner until the pattern has been completed. Here's
the link to Seahorse Love Part Two with directions for closing the bottom of the tube and
adding fringe, a strap, and further embellishments.
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Beaded Strap Ideas
Beaded Straps To Use With Your Beaded Amulet Bags
Almost everyone has an amulet bag or two laying around unfinished for want of a strap.
How sad! Your beautiful beaded bags deserve straps. You want to be able to show them
off in all their beady glory don't you? To that end, here are some strap ideas to get you
started (or better yet, finished!).
Idea One: Round Braid
You can braid strands of seed beads, embroidery thread or silk with this method to make
an elegant cord.
This braid takes four strands. Make them about 3 times as long as you want your strap to
be just to be safe. The resulting length will vary according to the thickness of the
material you use, so strands that are too long are much better than strands that are too
short. Knot the ends of your strands together and secure them to something stable. The
braid itself is pretty simple. Take the right-most strand (dark blue in this example) and
bring it under the two center strands (green and pink) and over the top of the left hand
center strand (the pink one). The dark blue strand should now be the right hand center
strand. Then take the left-most strand (the red one) and bring it under the two center
strands and up over the right hand center strand. Just repeat these two steps (which are
really the same step reversed) until you reach the length you want. This is what it looks
like if you use satin rattail.
Idea Two: Chevron Chain
The simplest of the chevron chains makes a nice strap and it's reasonably easy to make.
First pick up 3 beads and tie them in a circle. Pick up 3 more beads and go up through
the right-most bead.
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Pick up two beads and go up through the new right-most bead. Continue adding 2 beads
at a time in this manner until you reach the length you need. Try different combinations
of colors to achieve an effect you like. This is what it looks like following the pattern of
colors in the diagrams with matte black and red-lined green seed beads.
Idea Three: Two Simple Ladders
The first of these was adapted from two-needle to single-needle because I hate using two
needles, I'm just not good at it. You may use two if you like of course.
Decide how long you want your links to be. In the example I used 3 beads on each side
in between the accent beads. You can use any number and combination of colors and
sizes you like. You can also use several seed beads in place of the accent bead. For the
instructions I'll use the number I used in the diagram. Pick up one accent bead, 3 seeds,
another accent bead, and 3 more seeds. Tie them in a circle and go through the accent
bead next to the knot, the 3 seeds following it and the other accent bead. For all the
other links pick up 3 seeds, your accent bead and three more seeds and go through the
accent bead on the opposite side from where your thread is coming out to form a loop.
Then go up through the 3 seeds on that side plus the accent bead. This is what it looks
like with black matte seed beads, red-lined yellow triangles and green crystals. I hangs
better with weight on it of course.
The second ladder is made in two parts. Again, you must decide you long you want each
link to be. In this example I chose to use bugles and seeds.
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First string as many beads as it takes to make the chain the length you need by
alternating between bugles and seeds, being sure to begin and end with a seed. Then
turn the corner by picking up 1 seed, 1 bugle, 1 seed, 1 bugle. Go through the 2nd seed
on the base to form a square. Go back through the last bugle, and through the back of
the seed after it. Continue the chain by adding 1 bugle, 1 seed, 1 bugle, and going
through each seed on the base, back through the bugle and through the back of the seed
you left. Here's what it looks like with two bugles and one seed in each link. Again, it
looks straighter when something is hanging from it.
Some other Ideas and a Few Tips.
Always use the heaviest thread you can get away with in these chains. Always use a seed
bead before and after bugles so no weight is placed directly on them. They tend to have
sharp edges and can cut the thread. Daisy chains also make great straps. Check out this
Daisy Chain Beading Tutorial page for instructions. Also, a simple strand of rattail can be
used if it fits with your design. Sometimes less is more. Finally, pick up the book Indian
Bead-Weaving Patterns by Horace Goodhue. This book is stuffed with dozens of chain
patterns! The instructions and diagrams leave something to be desired, but you will
never find a beadwork book that has more beading information in it than this one. It's
definitely worth the struggle to translate the beading diagrams!
Daisy Chain Bead Stitch

Making Closed and Open Daisy Chain with Beads
The simplest technique is also my favorite
I usually make Daisy Chains with standard size 11° seed beads for necklaces and
bracelets and pony beads for anklets, but you can use any size you want as long as the
beads are not so large that they leave a lot of thread showing in between beads. For this
example you will need:
• 3 colors of seed beads (I will use green, purple, and yellow to match the diagrams)
• Nymo
• size 12 needle
• beeswax
• clasp (A hook and eye is good for a necklace, lobster claw for bracelets and
anklets.)
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It's best to start with as long a piece of doubled thread as you can handle. Wax it well, so
that the two strands of Nymo stick together. It's much easier to handle this way.
Alternately, you may use a single strand of Power Pro or other "gel spun" (not plain
monofilament) fishing-type line.
Make a small loop of beads through the hole of one side of your clasp, go back through
the loop several times to strengthen it. Tie a square knot and leave a loose end to hide
later. Add 5 green beads, 4 purple, and one yellow. Go back through the first purple bead
like so:
Now add two more purple beads and go through the purple bead on the far side of your
yellow center bead.
Spiral Rope Chain

Easy and versatile stitch for necklaces, bracelets and more!
The Spiral Rope Chain is one of the easiest and most versatile stitches we have. It can be
used on it's own, as a bag strap, or as the basis for a necklace, bracelet or anklet. Once
you get the basic start down, it work up in no time, and you can do it while watching TV.
It is a simple, two bead, same size piece, so no having to chase different sized beads
around.
303
Here's what you need to do to get your own Spiral Rope Chain started:
Size 11/0 seed beads - approx. 5 grams, in two different colors. Use high contrast colors
for your first Spiral, it makes it easier to see what you are doing.
Nymo Thread - Size "D" in a color to match the core beads on the Spiral.
Size 12 Beading Needle
French Coil (aka bullion or gimp) - 2 pieces, 8 mm long, each piece.
Clasp and ring for finishing.
1. Cut a 3 foot piece of Nymo, stretch and condition with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
Thread your beading needle.
2. Place 4 beads in your core color (white in the pictures) and 3 beads in the outside
spiral color onto your thread.
3. Tie the beads into a circle. leaving about a 6" tail. Pass the needle through the 4 core
beads, and come out at the top.
4. Add 1 bead in the core color (white) and 3 beads in the spiral color (blue). Let the
beads drop down to the work.
304
5. Pass the needle through 3 of the first four 4 core beads (white) and the 1 core bead
you just added. You should pass through a total of 4 core beads. Do not pass through the
very first core bead on the thread.
6. Pull the thread up through the 4 core beads, then use your thumb to push the 3 blue
beads over to the side so that they sit next to the first set of 3 Spiral beads.
7. Repeat from Step 4 until your Spiral Rope reaches the length you want. Keep pushing
the top beads over as you go and remember to only pass the needle through 4 of the
core beads.
8. Finish your bracelet (or necklace or anklet) by adding the gimp to the tail thread,
passing it through the fining, and stitching it back into the spiral. Make sure to tie a very
secure knot, and finish with a drop of clear nail polish. Repeat on the other side.
Using different size beads, you can accomplish lots of great things with this stitch. it
looks great done with size 6/0 beads, and makes a very fine piece with 13/0 or 15/0
beads. So experiment, and if you come up with something really cool, send me a picture
for the Beadwork Gallery!
Zig-Zag Stitch
Dateline: 03/08/99
This stitch is basically an expansion on the zig-zag chain featured in Horace Goodhue's
Indian Bead-Weaving Patterns. If you tried the basket project in Carol Wilcox Wells'
Creative Bead Weaving then you have already had a taste of this (she calls it chevron chain
stitch). You may not realize it, but pretty much any chain stitch can be converted to a tubular
or flat multi-row area covering stitch. I will most likely explore this area further in the future.
305
To begin pick up a bead and go through it several times to secure it. Now pick up 9 more
beads and go back through the first bead you picked up to form a pointed loop. This is your
base, think of it as a triangle with 3 beads per side and one bead at the point. Now pick up 6
beads and go down through the 3rd bead down on the right side from the bead your thread is
coming out of. You'll note that this forms a second triangle pointing the opposite direction
from the first one. The two triangles share a side.
(The blue beads in each picture show the new beads added in each step unless no beads are
added, in which case they show the beads added in the previous step.)
To continue you base row, pick up 6 more beads and go up through the 3rd bead up from the
point bead your thread is coming out of. Note that this step is the same as the previous one,
you are just traveling in the opposite direction. Hence the name zig-zag stitch. :-) Continue
your base row in this way until it's as long as you want it.
To connect the two ends you must complete two triangles. Leaving a down-pointing triangle
on the right hand end, pick up three beads and go up through the 3rd bead down from the
point bead in the last triangle on the left. Then pick up 2 more beads and go up through the
3rd bead up from the point bead you originally left. Last pick up 3 more beads and go down
through the point bead in the left-hand triangle.
306
Use the thread path shown here to get your thread into position to begin the second row.
Now pick up ten beads and go back through the first of them to create a down pointing
triangle and continue through the next set of 3 beads in a horizontal line to the right.
For the remainder of this row and each subsequent row every other triangle shares two sides
with existing triangles. Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 3rd bead past the point bead in
the previous triangle.
For the next stitch pick up 6 beads and go down through the 3rd bead past the point bead in
the previous triangle. Continue alternating between this and the previous step to complete the
row.
307
Join the ends of the row by completing the missing triangle then begin a new row in the
manner described above.
Here are a couple of designs I think might be interesting worked up.
308
It is difficult to even conceptualize a complex design in this stitch without graph paper so I
made some for us to use. :-)
309
Jewel in the Lotus Beaded Necklace
A Beautiful Free Bead Pattern
I named this beaded necklace "The Jewel in the Lotus" because the shape of it is
reminiscent of the stylized lotus seen in Buddhist iconography. The finished piece is so
sparkly and beautiful in person plus it's quite easy to make!
To make this necklace you'll need a small clasp, one hank of size 11 2-cut beads in the
color of your choice (the necklace in the picture is done with transparent grey AB) and
the following Swarovski crystals in crystal AB: 1 10 mm round (5000), 1 8mm
bicone(5301), and 4 9x6mm teardrops(5500). Numbers in parentheses are links to the
corresponding page of the General Bead catalog.
Start by attaching one half of your clasp to one end of a doubled thread. String on as
many beads as you need to make a short necklace/loose choker (standard choker length
is 16 inches, standard princess length is 18 inches, but measure yours for best fit).
Attach the other end of your clasp. Arrange your work so far so that your needle and
thread are coming out of the left hand end. Fold the necklace in half to find the center.
count 50 beads from the center to the left. Mark this spot by sticking an extra needle
through the 50th bead or tying a bit of thread between the 50th and 51st beads. Now re-
enter the left end of the necklace and thread all the way down to the bead just before the
50th bead from the center. Now you are in position to add the first "petal."
310
Pick up 21 beads and go back through the second to the last bead. Now pick up 19 more
beads. Count 20 beads to the right from the bead you left in the main necklace loop.
Loop your thread over the main neck loop thread between the 20th and 21st beads and
go back down through the last 3 beads you added.
For the second loop pick up 18 beads and go up through the second to the last bead. Pick
up 19 beads. Count 20 beads to the right in the main neck loop from the last loop-over
and loop over the main thread between the 20th and 21st beads. Go back down through
the last 5 beads you added.
311
For the large central loop pick up 26 beads and go up through the second to the last
bead. Pick up 29 beads and count 20 beads to the right from the last loop-over. Loop
over the main thread between the 20th and 21st beads and go back down through the
last 5 beads you added.
For the 3rd small loop pick up 16 beads and go up through the 2nd to the last bead. Pick
up 19 beads. Skip 20 beads in the main loop and loop over the main thread between the
20th and 21st beads. Go down through the last 3 beads you added.
312
For the last loop pick up 18 beads and go up through the 2nd to last bead. Pick up 19
beads. Skip 20 beads in the main loop and re-enter the main loop through the 21st bead.
Continue through to the end of the main loop.
Loop through the clasp connector loop and re-enter the main necklace strand. Thread
through the necklace until you get to the middle of the first loop you come to. There are
20 beads between each end of each loop so your thread should be coming out from the
tenth bead from the beginning of the loop.
Pick up 2 seed beads, one teardrop and one more seed bead. Skip the last seed bead and
go up through the teardrops and the 2 seed beads. Re-enter the main neck loop through
the bead next to the one you originally left. Thread through until you get to the center of
the next loop. Add another dangle consisting of 2 seeds, one teardrop and 1 seed. Then
re-enter the main loop and thread through to the center of the middle loop. Pick up 2
seed beads, 1 large round crystal and one bicone crystal plus one more seed bead. Skip
the seed bead and go back up through the rest. Add dangles in the center of the
remaining 2 small loops to match the first two.
If at any point you run short of thread, thread a new needle and tie the end of the new
thread to the old thread at the base. Thread the rest of the old thread into the main loop
of the necklace and snip off the needle. Continue normally with the new thread. When
you reach the end of the necklace knot at the clasp then hide the end of your thread in
the main loop. When you are finished you can go back and weave the tail of the new
thread into the main strand to hide it.
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http://www.geocities.

WELCOME TO BOB'S BEADING TUTORIAL PAGES

These pages contain illustrated techniques for various aspects of beading:

Round Nose Flat Nose Side Cutter

• Wire Cutters - For cutting jewelers wire or clasp connectors.

Threads and Wire:

• Jeweler's Wire - Wire and crimps. And perhaps a crimping tool.

Supplies - Beads and Findings:

Some common supplies you will need will include:

Spring Lobster Barrel

Ball Type Stud With French

Organizational and Design Aids:

In addition, follow these useful hints:

Figure Eight Over Hand

KNOTTING BETWEEN BEADS

One way of doing so is:

There are a number of different types of clasps:

HANG THE PIECE OVER NIGHT TO STRETCH BEADING THREAD.

9. Cut away the overhand knot in the beading thread loop.

1. Lay out your design of beads - measure length.

10. Bring the 2 ends of the strands near each other.

Earings made from beads can be made in several different ways:

• Using head pins.

1. Choose the type of head pin you will use.

Ear Rings Using Threaded Beads - Circular and Vertical

For cups, simply glue a bead or pearl in place.

4. Beaded Pendant Assemblies - Pendant assemblies are groups of beads threaded or

CHAPTER 1 - Basic Beading

CHAPTER 3 - Chevron Chain

CHAPTER 4 - Daisy Chain

CHAPTER 5 - Flower Stitch (pattern pages included)

CHAPTER 6 - Twill Stitch (pattern pages included)

CHAPTER 7 - Gourd Stitch (pattern page included)

CHAPTER 8 - Brick Stitch (pattern pages included)

CHAPTER 9 - Lace Stitch (pattern page included)

Thread comes in a variety of sizes and waxed or unwaxed. Waxed thread is

SMALL JARS and CONTAINERS

MAGNIFYING DESK LAMP

Pick up a bead on the needle. Bring the bead down the

When you are an inch or so into the

Thread the tail end of the thread you just

Pass the needle back up the piece

Finishing involves virtually the same

After you have strung the last bead of the

Pass the needle back up the piece

Adding New Thread – step 2

Starting at the point where the current

Adding New Thread – step 3

Continue working the stitch with the new

Now work in a zig-zag fashion through

Above all, HAVE FUN WITH IT !

For this fringe an even number of beads on the outer

Pick up 30-40 beads with the needle for a long

Attach the thread to the main body of

To create a V-shaped graduated fringe, an odd number of beads on

For a right-angle or left-angle graduated fringe, add or subtract the

A barrel clasp consists of two halves which screw together forming

Beads come in a variety of sizes ranging from 8o to 25o ( o is pronounced "aught").

Using bead tips is accepted as a professional method of starting

Expert hand-blending, cutting, forming, and reduction techniques are integrated