Goostav the Goose

© IlDikko

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are intended for personal use only. All rights reserved. It is prohibited
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You may sell any item made personally by you according to my pattern.
Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have
their own copy of the pattern. Items for sale must state in the item
description that they are designed by IlDikko and also include a link to
my website (www.ildikko-crochet.com).

If you have questions about this pattern, please feel free to contact me!

Thanks and enjoy!

E-Mail: ildiko.struening@gmail.com

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Materials
• Yarn/wool: I have used Catania yarn from Schachenmayr in ecru (0130 – 2 x 50g),
white (0106 < 50g), orange (0281 - 50g), grey (0242 - 50g), light green (0205 <
50g), yellow (0208 < 50g) and turquoise (0146 < 50g) and Nako Paris yarn in ecru
(00300 < 100g) color.
• 5 g of merino felting wool in white color for the hair
• Crochet hook: 3.0 mm
• Tapestry needle
• Filling
• Scissors
• Two 9 mm black safety eyes
• Approx. 140 cm of single core copper PVC-coated electrical wire (diameter: 2,5mm)
• Rubber tape (electrician’s tape) 1,5 cm wide to secure wire ends
• Pliers for cutting wire
• Approx. 30 cm of aluminum wire (diameter: 2 mm) for sunglasses
• Brown plastic bottle (I used an empty dog shampoo bottle)
• Microfiber cloth to be used as the towel

Abbreviations
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
hdcinc - half double crochet increase (2 hdc in next st)
slst - slip stitch
inc - increase (2 sc in next st)
dec - decrease (2 sc worked off together)
(nr) - indicates the total number of stitches in the current row/round
() 2-times - repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis twice
() 3-times - repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis 3-times
FO - fasten off

Important Notes
• All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral (except Goostav’s eyelids, parts of his
wings and slippers). Do not join or turn, unless instructed otherwise
• Using invisible decrease instead of decrease makes the final result nicer
• You may find it useful to use a stitchmarker for counting your rounds
• Take your time to create your Amigurumi’s face. It is a very important part of the
final result
• While stuffing and making the wire frame take care to give each part a nice shape
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Size of finished figure
Using the above metioned yarn and hook Goostav will be 32 cm x 29 cm.

Realization
Head

With ecru yarn:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (= sc in the next 3 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (= sc in next 3 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (30)
Round 6. – Round 8. sc* (30)
Round 9. 8 sc, inc, (9 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (33)
Round 10. – Round 11. sc* (33)
Round 12. 9 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (36)
Round 13. – Round 14. sc* (36)
Round 15. 10 sc, inc, (11 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (39)
Round 16. 11 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (42)
Round 17. 12 sc, inc, (13 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (45)
Round 18. 13 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (48)
Round 19. 14 sc, inc, (15 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (51)
Round 20. 15 sc, inc, (16 sc, inc) 2-times, sc (54)
Round 21. – Round 23. sc* (54)
Round 24. (7 sc, dec)* (48)
Round 25. (6 sc, dec)* (42)
Round 26. (5 sc, dec)* (36)
Round 27. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
Round 28. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 29. ch2, skip 1, sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) 5-times (19)
The main body skeleton wire will go through the hole just created.
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Start to create the wire frame at this point. In my case the wire for head and body was
approximately 140 cm long. Keep the size of the hook and the gauge of the yarn you are
using in mind. You may want to leave it a little longer as the exact size can be adjusted later.
Bend the wire in half and form it to fit exactly into the head. Secure the loop with rubber
tape. See pictures below. Lead the two ends of the wire through the hole created in Round
29.

Start stuffing the head (stuff nicely around the wire) and keep on stuffing while crocheting.
Take care to give it a nice shape!
Round 30. sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, dec, (sc, dec) 5-times (12)
Round 31. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the head.

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Upper Beak

With orange yarn:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (= sc in the next 3 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (= sc in next 3 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. (5 sc, inc)* (14)
Round 4. sc* (14)
Round 5. (6 sc, inc)* (16)
Round 6. – Round 7. sc* (16)
Round 8. (7 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 9. – Round 10. sc* (18)
Round 11. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 12. sc* (24)
Round 13. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
Round 14. sc* (30)
Round 15. (4 sc, inc)* (36)
Round 16. sc* (36)
Round 17. (5 sc, inc)* (42)
Round 18. sc* (42)
Round 19. (6 sc, inc)* (48)
Round 20. sc* (48)
Round 21. (7 sc, inc)* (54)
Round 22. – Round 23. sc* (54)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Fold the beak in half (see images). Sew it with
invisible stitches to the head.

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Lower Beak

With orange yarn:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (= sc in the next 3 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (= sc in next 3 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. (5 sc, inc)* (14)
Round 4. (6 sc, inc)* (16)
Round 5. (7 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 6. – Round 8. sc* (18)
Round 9. (8 sc, inc)* (20)
Round 10. sc* (20)
Round 11. (9 sc, inc)* (22)
Round 12. sc* (22)
Round 13. (10 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 14. (5 sc, inc)* (28)
Round 15. (6 sc, inc)* (32)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Fold the beak in half (see images above) and
sew it with invisible stitches to the head. For exact place and position see pictures below.

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Eyes

Eyeballs with white yarn (make 2):

Round 1. ch 4 (4)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other
side of beginning ch: sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc
into this ch) (8)
Round 3. inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 4. (sc, inc), sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (20)
Round 5. – Round 6. sc* (20)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Eyelids with ecru yarn (make 2):

Eyelids are crocheted in rows.

Row 1. ch11 (11)

Row 2. starting at second ch from hook: 10 sc, ch1, turn (10)
Row 3. 10 sc, turn (10)
Row 4. skip1, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, turn (7)
Row 5. 3 dec, slst, DO NOT TURN! (4)

slst around. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Insert the 8 mm black safety eyes into the eyeballs (see pictures above). Sew the eyes with
invisible stitches to the head. For the exact place see the pictures below. Stuff the eyes
softly with a small amount of filling while sewing. Sew the eyelids onto the eyeballs.

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Embroider the eyelid lines with grey yarn. For exact place and position see pictures below.

Form the beak with a big grey stitch and repeat this stitch once more in order to give it a
nice shape.

Hair
The hair is created from Merino wool.

Separate the Merino wool into separate strands. Use a thinner embroidery thread to sew
the tresses midway to the head in order to create two strands of the same length. Work at
the middle line to cover the top of the head with hair. Cut the hair, if necessary.

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Tail feathers

Middle tail feather (called F2 in next steps) with ecru Nako Paris yarn:
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 3. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 4. – Round 6. sc* (12)
Round 7. dec, 10 sc (11)
Round 8. sc* (11)
Round 9. dec, 9 sc (10)
Round 10. sc* (10)
Round 11. dec, 8 sc (9)
Round 12. sc* (9)
Round 13. dec, 7 sc (8)
Round 14. – Round 20. sc* (8)
slst in next stitch. FO.

Smaller tail feathers with ecru Nako Paris yarn (make 2 - called F1 and F3 in next steps):

Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)

Round 2. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 3. – Round 6. sc* (9)
Round 7. (sc, dec)* (6)
Round 8. – Round 15. sc* (6)
slst in next stitch. FO.

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Body

With ecru yarn:

Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
In next round the tail feathers (F1, F2 and F3) and the body will be crocheted together.

Round 6. (4 sc, inc) 3-times, 2 sc, insert hook through F1 and body stitches as you
see on the pictures above: 3 sc, insert hook through F2 and body stitches
as you see on the pictures above: 4 sc, insert hook through F3 and body
stitches as you see on the pictures above: 3 sc, work again on the body
stitches: 2 sc, inc (34)
Round 7. (5 sc, inc) 3-times, 2 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of F1,
see pictures below: sc, 2 inc, insert hook through the remaining stitches
of F2, see pictures below: 4 sc, insert hook through the remaining
stitches of F3, see pictures below: 2 inc, sc, work again on the body
stitches: 3 sc, inc (42)

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Round 8. (6 sc, inc)* (48)
Round 9. (7 sc, inc)* (54)
Round 10. (8 sc, inc)* (60)
Round 11. (9 sc, inc)* (66)
Round 12. (10 sc, inc)* (72)
Round 13. – Round 18. sc* (72)
Round 19. 5 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 16 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 49 sc (74)
The wire for the legs will later go through the holes just created.

Round 20. 5 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 16 sc, sc into the 2 ch
loop from previous round, 49 sc (72)
Round 21. (10 sc, dec)* (66)
Round 22. – Round 24. sc* (66)
Round 25. (9 sc, dec)* (60)
Round 26. sc* (60)
Round 27. (8 sc, dec)* (54)
Round 28. sc* (54)
Round 29. (7 sc, dec)* (48)
Round 30. sc* (48)
Round 31. (6 sc, dec)* (42)
Round 32. sc* (42)
Round 33. (5 sc, dec)* (36)
Round 34. sc* (36)
Round 35. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
Round 36. – Round 39. sc* (30)

Stuff the body and keep on stuffing as you go on,

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Round 40. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 41. – Round 43. sc* (24)
Round 44. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 45. sc* (18)
Round 46. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 47. sc* (12)

Finish stuffing the body. Leave the neck unstuffed, as the wire frame will need to pass
through it later.

Round 48. (2 sc, dec)* (9)

Round 49. – Round 61. sc* (9)
Round 62. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 63. (sc, inc)* (18)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Insert the wire into the body as you see on the pictures above. Lead the leg’s wire through
the holes created in Round 19. Take care that the head looks straight forward.
Sew the body with invisible stitches to the head.

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Legs

Legs with ecru yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 18 sc in double adjustable ring (do not pull it tight and leave a long
tail for sewing it to the body) (18)
Round 2. – Round 4. sc* (18)
Round 5. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 6. (2 sc, dec)* (9)
With orange yarn:
Round 7. sc* in back loops (9)
Round 8. – Round 17. sc* (9)
Round 18. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 19. (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 20. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the feet.

With ecru Nako Paris yarn crochet around Goostav’s leg using the front loops of Round 7:
Round 1. front loops of Round 7: (2 sc, inc)* (9)
slst in next stitch. FO. Hide the yarn tail in the leg. Insert the leg’s wire into the legs. Stuff
the leg. Stuff it nicely around the wire. Sew the leg with invisible stitches to the body.

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Feet

Feet with orange yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 4 sc in double adjustable ring (4)

Round 2. inc* (8)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (12)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (16)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (20)
Round 6. – Round 8. sc* (20)
Round 9. 4 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 15 sc (21)

The wire for the leg will go through the hole created in Round 9.

Round 10. 4 sc, sc in ch 2 loop from prev. round, 15 sc (20)

Round 11. sc* (21)
Round 12. (4 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 13. sc* (24)
Round 14. (5 sc, inc)* (28)
Round 15. sc* (28)
Round 16. (6 sc, inc)* (32)
Round 17. sc* (32)
Round 18. (7 sc, inc)* (36)
Round 19. – Round 31. (3 sc, dec, 3 sc, inc)* (36)

slst in next stitch, FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Form the foot’s wire core at this point. For the
exact size compare with the foot as you see on the pictures. It should fit nicely. Cut the wire
to the proper size and lead it through the hole crocheted in Round 9. See pictures below.
Secure the end with rubber tape.

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Stuff the heel softly around the wire. The front of the foot does not need to be stuffed. Fold
the foot in half and close the opening with invisible stitches (see pictures below). Fix the
filling at the heel with a few invisible stitches. Hide the yarn tail in the foot.

Stuff the leg carefully around the wire. Sew the leg with invisible stitches to the foot and
body using the yarn tails left on the leg.

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Wings

Main wing part with ecru Nako Paris yarn (make 2)

Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)

Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
Round 6. (4 sc, inc)* (36)
Round 7. (5 sc, inc)* (42)
Round 8. (6 sc, inc)* (48)

Fold it in half and crochet the two layers with 22 sc stitches together, as shown in the
pictures below.

For creating the feathers stop working in spiral, crochet in rows instead.

Row 1. ch 10 starting from the last stitch of the wing (see first picture below) (10)
Row 2. starting at 2nd ch from hook: 6 hdc, 3 sc, sc in first stitch of the main
wing part, turn (see second picture below) (10)
Row 3. skip 1st stitch (that was made in the wing), 3 sc, 6 hdc, turn (9)
Row 4. 6 hdc, 3 sc, 2 sc in wing, turn (11)

First feather is ready.

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Row 5. skip first 2 stitches (were made in the wing in Row 4), 3 sc, ch5, turn (8)
Row 6. starting at 2nd ch from hook: 4 hdc, 3 sc, sc in wing, turn (8)
Row 7. skip 1st stitch (that was made in the wing), 3 sc, 4 hdc, turn (7)
Row 8. 4 hdc, 3 sc, 2 sc in wing, turn (9)
Second feather is ready.

Row 9. skip first 2 stitches (were made in the wing in Row 8), 3 sc, ch4, turn (7)
Row 10. starting at 2nd ch from hook: 3 hdc, 3 sc, sc in wing, turn (7)
Row 11. skip 1st stitch (that was made in the wing), 3 sc, 3 hdc, turn (6)
Row 12. 3 hdc, 3 sc, sc in wing (7)
Third feather is ready.

FO. Weave the yarn tail into the wing. Sew the wings with invisible stitches to the body.
For exact place and position see pictures below.

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Flower

With yellow yarn:

Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
With turquoise yarn:
Round 2. in all 6 stitches: (slst, 2 dc, slst) (24)
FO. Hide the yarn tail in the flower.

Stem with green yarn:

Row 1. ch 32 (32)
Row 2. starting at 2nd ch from hook: 31 slst (31)
FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew the stem to the flower.

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Slippers

Slippers are made out of three parts: lower part of the sole, upper part of the sole and strap.
Lower part of the sole with grey yarn (make 2):
Round 1. ch 18 (18)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 15 sc (= sc in the next 15 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 15 sc (= sc in next 15 ch),
2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (36)
Round 3. inc, 15 sc, 3 inc, 15 sc, 2 inc (42)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (2 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(2 sc, inc) 2-times (54)
Round 6. (3 sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (3 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(3 sc, inc) 2-times (60)
Round 7. (4 sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (4 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(4 sc, inc) 2-times (66)
Round 8. (5 sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (5 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(5 sc, inc) 2-times (72)
Round 9. (6 sc, inc), 5 sc, 10 hdc, (6 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 10 hdc, 5 sc,
(6 sc, inc) 2-times (78)
Round 10. in back loops: sc* (78)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail.

Upper part of the sole is crocheted exactly the same way, but FO after Round 9.
Cut some thicker cardboard in the exact form of the sole. Insert it into the lower part. Sew
the upper part to the lower one.

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Strap is crocheted in rows with grey yarn (make 2):

Row 1. ch 31 (31)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 30 hdc, ch1, turn (30)

With ecru yarn:

Row 3. 30 hdc, ch1, turn (30)

With grey yarn:

Row 4. 30 hdc, ch1, turn (30)

With ecru yarn:

Row 5. 30 hdc, ch1, turn (30)

With grey yarn:

Row 6. 30 hdc, ch1, turn (30)

Row 7. 30 sc (30)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Hide all other yarn tails in the strap.

Sew the strap with invisible stitches to the sole. See exact place on the pictures below.

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Sunglasses
Cut the glasses shape from a brown plastic bottle. Heat a small needle and make tiny holes
on the sides, as shown in the pictures below.

Shape the frame from aluminum wire following the form of the glasses. Attach the plastic
glasses to the frame through the small holes using sewing thread.

Cut a piece of e.g. microfiber cloth to use as the towel.

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CONGRATULATIONS! Goostav the Goose is ready!!! ☺

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