Instruction Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS
ESSENTIAL PARTS UTILITY STITCHES
Names of Parts 6 Zigzag 18
Standard Accessories 7 3-step zigzag 19
Dust cover 7 Stretch-Overlock Stitch 19
Sewing table 7 Triple straight stitch 20
Accessory box 7 Triple zigzag 20
Free arm sewing 8 Sewing Buttons 21
Four-step buttonhole 22
GETTING READY TO SEW
Zipper Application 23
Connecting the Power Supply 8
Blindstitch 23
Controlling the Sewing Speed 8
Presser foot lever 9 DECORATIVE STITCHING
Changing the Presser Foot 9 Vari-Overlock (scallop hem) 24
Attaching and removing the presser foot holder 9 Smocking 24
Changing the needle 10 Appliqué 25
Fabric and Needle Chart 10 Stretch Stitch Patterns 25
Setting Spool Pins 11
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case 11
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Shuttle Race 26
Winding the Bobbin 12
Removing the shuttle race unit 26
Threading the Bobbin Case 12
Assembling Shuttle Race Unit 26
Threading the Machine 13
Oiling 27
Needle threader 13
Cleaning the feed dog 27
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread 14
Troubleshooting 28
Thread tension dial 14
Stitch pattern selector knob 15 STITCH PATTERN

Stitch length knob 15 Overview 29

Reverse sewing lever 16

Lowering and raising the feed dog 16

BASIC SEWING
Straight stitch 17
Seam Guide Lines 18
Turning a Square Corner 18

3
IMPORTANT
The following basic safety precautions must properly, if it has been dropped or dam-
be observed when operating an electrical aged, or dropped into water. Return the
device: machine to the nearest authorized dealer
Please read the instruction manual carefully or service centre for examination, repair,
before using this machine. electrical or mechanical adjustment.
6. Never operate the machine with any air
Keep the instruction manual at a suitable
openings blocked. Keep ventilation open-
place with the machine and hand it over if you
ings of the machine and the foot control
give the machine to a third party.
free from accumulation of lint, dust, and
When the machine is not in use or left loose cloth.
unattended, always disconnect the 7. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
machine from the power supply system. Special care is required around the
Unplug it from the outlet. machine needle.
8. Always use the proper stitch plate. Using
the wrong stitch plate can result in nee-
dle breakage.
DANGER! 9.
10.
Do not use bent needles.
Do not pull or push the fabric while sew-
To reduce the risk of electric shock: ing. This can result in needle breakage.
1. Never leave the machine unattended 11. Switch the machine off (“O”) when mak-
when it is plugged in. ing any adjustments in the needle area,
2. Always unplug this machine from the such as threading or changing the nee-
electric outlet immediately after using dle, threading the bobbin, or changing
and before cleaning. the presser foot, and the like.
3. LED RADIATION: Do not look directly at 12. Always unplug the machine when per-
the LED using an optical instrument. forming cleaning or maintenance work-
such as replacing the sewing light or
when making any other user mainte-
WARNING! nance adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual (disconnect the power
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock plug). Cleaning and maintenance work
or injury to persons: must not be carried out by children with-
out supervision.
1. The machine mustn’t be used by chil- 13. Never drop or insert any object into any
dren under 8 or by people with reduced openings.
physical, sensory or mental capabilities 14. Use this machine only in dry and pro-
or if there is a lack of experience and tected areas. Never operate the machine
knowledge how to operate the machine. in a damp or wet environment.
Unless they have been given instruction 15. Do not operate the machine where aero-
concerning the use of the machine and sol spray products are being used or
the involved risks by a person who is where oxygen is being administered.
responsible for their safety. 16. To disconnect, turn the power switch to
2. Do not use this machine as a toy. Close (“O”)(off), then remove the plug from the
attention is necessary when this machine outlet. Do not unplug by pulling the cord,
is used by children, near children or instead grasp the plug to pull it from the
people with reduced sensation. outlet.
3. Use this machine only for its intended 17. If the supply cord of the foot control is
use as described in this manual. Use damaged, it must be replaced by the
only accessories recommended by the manufacturer or an appropriate service
manufacturer. agent or a similar qualified person in
4. Children should be supervised to ensure order to avoid endangerment.
that they do not play with the machine. 18. Never place anything on the foot control.
5. Never operate this machine if it has a 19. The machine may only be used in com-
damaged cord or plug, if it is not working bination with a type C-1028 (100-120 V)

4
 All rights reserved
or KD-2902 (220-240 V) foot control. For technical and product improvement rea-
20. The sound pressure level during normal sons, the machine‘s features, parts and acces-
operation is lower than 75dB(A). sory are subject to unannounced changes
21. This machine is provided with double and alterations at any time. The accessory
insulation (except U.S.A/Canada). Use included can differ from country to country.
only identical replacement parts. See
instructions for Servicing of double-insu-
lated products.
PLEASE NOTE:
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should

SERVICING OF DOU-
be brought to a warm room about one hour
before use.
BLE-INSULATED
PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
insulation are provided instead of grounding.
No grounding means is provided on a double-
insulated product nor should a means for
grounding be added to the product. Servicing
a double-insulated product requires extreme
care and knowledge of the system and should
only be done by qualified service personnel.
Replacement parts for a double-insulated
product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is marked
with the words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or
«DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol may also be marked on the
product.

WARNING: Europe only: This appliance may only be used by

children over eight and by persons with reduced
This machine is intended for household use physical, sensory or mental capabilities or by per-
only. If used intensively or commercially, regu- sons who lack experience and knowledge of how
lar cleaning and especially attentive care is to operate the machine under supervision, after
required. instruction on how to use the equipment safely and
Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive or once they have understood the potential dangers.
commercial use are not covered automatically, Children shall not play with the appliance. Clean-
even if they occur within the warranty period. ing and user maintenance shall not be made by
The decision on how to deal with any such children without supervision.
cases rests with the local authorised servicing Outside of Europe (except for the USA and Can-
staff. ada): This appliance may only be used by persons
(including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities or by persons who lack
Please note that on disposal, this product experience and knowledge of how to operate the
must be safely recycled in accordance with machine under supervision and after instruction
relevant National legislation relating to electri- on how to use the equipment safely by a person
cal/electronic products. If in doubt please responsible for their safety. Children should be
contact your retailer for guidance. (European supervised to ensure that they do not play with the
Union only) appliance.

5
 ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts

Reverse sewing lever

Stitch pattern selector knob
Stitch length knob
Bobbin winder stopper
Bobbin winder spindle
Spool pin
Bobbin winder pre-tension
Thread guide
Thread take-up lever
Thread tension dial
Head cover
Thread cutter
Needle threader
Stitch plate
Sewing table (accessory box)
Presser foot holder
Needle clamp screw
Needle
Presser foot (zigzag foot)
Carrying handle
Handwheel
Power switch
Power/Foot control connection
Free arm
Presser foot lever
Foot control*

PLEASE NOTE:
To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying
handle with your hand, and support the sewing
machine with the other hand.

PLEASE NOTE:
Design and specifications are subject to change
without prior notice.

* The foot control included may differ from the illustration.

6
Standard Accessories
Bobbins (3x)
Seam ripper (buttonhole opener)
Needle set
Buttonhole foot with slide
Blindstitch foot
Zipper foot
Button-sew-on foot

More information on optional accessories can be found

on our website:
http://www.mybernette.com/accessories

Dust cover
Sewing instructions for your own personalized dust
cover are available at:

www.mybernette.com/cover

Sewing table
The sewing table increases the sewing area and is easy
to remove for free arm sewing.

• Removing the sewing table:

Pull the table away from the machine.
Sewing table

• Attaching the sewing table:

Slide the sewing table along the free arm and insert the
guides into the openings until the table locks into the
machine.
Free arm
Guide
Hole

Accessory box
The accessories are stored inside the sewing table.
Unfold the cover to open the accessory box.
Accessory box

7
 Free arm sewing
Free arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves, waist-
bands, pant legs or any other tubular garments. It is also
useful for darning socks or mending knees or elbows.

GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting the Power Supply
Switch off the power switch.
Insert the machine plug into the Power/Foot control
connection.
Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet.
Turn the power switch on.
Power supply plug
Power switch
Wall outlet
Power/Foot control connection
Machine plug

CAUTION:
Before connecting to the power supply, make sure
the voltage shown on the machine conforms to
your electrical power.

WARNING:
While in operation, always keep your eyes on the
sewing area, and do not touch any moving parts
such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or
needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug from
the power supply:
- when leaving the machine unattended.
- when attaching or removing parts.
- when cleaning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control, other-
wise the machine will run intermittently.

Controlling the Sewing Speed

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you depress the foot control, the faster the
machine runs.

8
Presser foot lever
The presser foot lever raises and lowers the presser foot.
It can be raised about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the nor-
mal top position to facilitate removal of the presser foot
or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot.

Lowered position
Normal up position
Highest position

Changing the Presser Foot

CAUTION:
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the
foot. Always use the foot that corresponds to the
selected stitch. The wrong foot can cause the
needle to break.

Presser foot release lever

Groove
Pin

• To remove:
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle bar
to its highest position.
Raise the presser foot.
Push the presser foot release lever to snap off the
presser foot holder.

• To attach:
Place the presser foot so that the pin on the foot lines up
directly below the groove of the presser foot holder.
Lower the presser foot.
Attaching and removing the presser
foot holder
CAUTION:
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the
presser foot holder.

Setscrew
Presser foot holder
Threaded hole

• To remove:
Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise with
a screwdriver.

• To attach:
Match the hole in the presser foot holder with the
threaded hole in the presser bar. Fit the setscrew into
the hole. Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise with
screwdriver.

9
 Changing the needle
CAUTION:
Always make sure to turn the power switch off and
disconnect the machine from power supply before
changing the needle.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you

and lower the presser foot.
Switch off the power switch.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it coun-
terclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the
flat side of the needle to the rear.
When inserting the needle into the needle clamp,
push it up against the stopper pin and tighten the
needle clamp screw firmly.

• To check the needle:

To check needle straightness, place the flat side of the
needle onto something flat (a stitch plate, glass etc.) The
gap between the needle and the flat surface should be
consistent.
Never use a blunt needle.

Fabric Thread Needle Fabric and Needle Chart

Lawn • Use a needle size of 11/75 or 14/90 for general
Georgette Silk #80-100 sewing work.
Fine Tricot Cotton #80-100 #9/65-11/75 • A fine thread and a fine needle must be used to
Organza Synthetic #80-100 sew lightweight fabric to prevent damage to the
Crepe fabric.
Sheeting • Heavy fabric requires a needle large enough to
Silk #50 pierce the fabric without the needle thread fraying.
Medium Jersey #11/75-
Cotton #50-80 • Always test the needle size on a spare section of
weight Broadcloth 14/90
Synthetic #50-80 the fabric you will be using for sewing.
Fleece
Denim • In general, use the same thread for the needle
Silk #30-50 and the bobbin.
Heavy Tweed #14/90-
Cotton #40-50
weight Coating 16/100
Synthetic #40-50
Quilting

PLEASE NOTE:
Three no. 14/90 needles are included in the nee-
dle set.
For optimal sewing results, it is recommend using
Organ needles.

10
Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread
in order to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for storage.

PLEASE NOTE:
When using thread which has tendency to tangle
around spool pin, thread through the hole of spool
pin as shown. The hole should face the thread
spool.
Upper thread
Hole
Tangle

Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case

Remove the sewing table by pulling it to the left.
Open the bobbin cover.
Bobbin cover

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you.

Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.
Latch

When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn into the
recess of the hook race.
Horn

11
 Winding the Bobbin
Pull the handwheel out.
Draw the thread from the spool.
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder pre-
tension.
Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin
from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
Push it to the right.
With the free end of the thread held in your hand,
depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when it has made a few turns,
and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin.
Depress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original
position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut
the thread.
Push the handwheel back into the original position.

PLEASE NOTE:
When stopping the machine, push the bobbin
winder spindle to the left.

Threading the Bobbin Case

Place the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction of
arrow.

Pull the thread into the bobbin case slot.

Draw the thread under the tension spring and into

the delivery eye.

* Pull a thread roughly 4" (10 cm) long from the bobbin.

12
Threading the Machine
Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread
coming from back of the spool.

Draw the thread into thread guide using both hands.

While holding the thread near spool, draw thread
down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
Firmly draw the thread up and through the take–up
lever from right to left.
Then pull the thread downwards and guide it into
the thread guide on the bottom of the sewing head,
moving from right to left.
Pull the thread downwards and, on the left side of
the needle bar, insert it into the thread guide.
Thread the needle eye from front to back.

Needle threader
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you. Pull down the needle
threader as far as it will go.

Turn the needle threader away from you so the

hook comes out through the needle eye from
behind.
Pull the thread around the guide and under the
hook. Take particular care with the point of the
needle when doing so.
Hook

Turn the needle threader toward you to pull the

thread through the needle eye. Release the needle
threader slowly while holding the thread end with
your hand. A loop of the thread is pulled up through
the needle eye.

13
 Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread
slightly with your left hand.

Use your right hand to slowly turn the handwheel

counterclockwise until the needle has been low-
ered. Continue turning the handwheel until the
thread take-up lever is at its highest point.
Slightly draw up the needle thread forming a loop of
the bobbin thread.

Pull 10 cm (4˝) of both threads back and under the

presser foot.

Thread tension dial

• Correct tension
The thread tension is adjusted depending on the sewing
materials, layers of fabric and sewing method.
In an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not
show on the right side (top) of the fabric, and the needle
thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom) of the
fabric.
Needle thread (Top thread)
Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
Right side (Top side) of fabric
Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Thread tension dial
Setting mark

• The needle thread tension is too tight

When the bobbin thread (bottom thread) appears on the
right side (top side) of the fabric, loosen the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.

• The needle thread tension is too loose

When the needle thread (top thread) appears on the
wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric, tighten the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.

14
 Stitch pattern selector knob
Turn the stitch pattern selector knob so that the symbol
with the desired stitch pattern points at the setting mark.
Setting mark

CAUTION
To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure the
needle is up and out of the fabric while selecting a
stitch.

Stitch length knob

Turn the stitch length knob so that the symbol with the
desired stitch length points at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch length.
Setting mark

• Set the dial for sewing with a zigzag stitch

between 0.5 and 4.
• Turn the knob to "S" to sew with stretch stitch pat-
terns, which are marked on the machine in red.
• If the stretch stitch pattern is irregular, turn the
stitch length knob towards "–" to condense the
stitch or towards "+" to expand the stitch.

+ S –

15
 Reverse sewing lever
As long as you keep the reverse sewing lever depressed,
the machine will sew in reverse.

Lowering and raising the feed dog

Remove the sewing table by pulling it to the left.
Open the bobbin cover.
Bobbin cover

To lower the feed dog, press the lever down and

move it in the direction indicated by the arrow (see
figure).

To raise the feed dog, press the lever down, move

it in the direction indicated by the arrow (see figure)
and turn the handwheel counterclockwise.

16
BASIC SEWING
Straight stitch
Stitch selection: A or B
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: 1.5 – 4

• Starting sewing
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric with its
edge lining up with a seam guide line on the stitch plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward
the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the
fabric feed by itself.

PLEASE NOTE:
Draw the threads to the left when sewing with the
buttonhole foot with slide.
To fasten the beginning of the seam, first sew sev-
eral stitches in reverse then sew forward.

• Finishing sewing
For fastening the end of seams, press the reverse sew-
ing lever and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Draw the
threads towards the back as you do so.
Cut the threads with the thread cutter .
The threads are now the proper length to begin sewing
the next seam.
Thread cutter

• Changing the Sewing Direction

CAUTION:
Keep fingers away from the presser foot when
guiding the fabric. Otherwise fingers may be
struck and injured by the needle clamp screw.

Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you to

bring the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing
direction as desired. Lower the presser foot and continue
sewing in the new direction.

17
 Seam Guide Lines
The numbers on the stitch plate indicate the distance
between the center needle position and the guideline.
The numbers in front are centimeters.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.

Number 10 15 20 3/8 4/8 5/8 6/8

Distance (cm) 1 1.5 2 — — — —
Distance (inch) — — — 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4

Center needle position

Guide lines
Numbers

Turning a Square Corner

To turn a square corner 5/8" (1.6 cm) from the fabric
edge.
Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the hand-
wheel counterclockwise.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to align the
edge with the 5/8" (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new
direction.
Line up the fabric edge facing you with the cornering
guide shown.
Cornering guide

UTILITY STITCHES
Zigzag
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–5
Stitch length: 0.5 – 4

Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting,

sewing on buttons etc.
Adjust the stitch length to suit your sewing needs.

18
3-step zigzag
Stitch selection: D
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 0.5 – 4

This stitch is used to finish the raw edge on synthetics

and other fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place your fabric to allow a 5/8" (1.6 cm) hem.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Stretch-Overlock Stitch
Stitch selection: G
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S

This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and stretch

velour because it provides the greatest amount of elas-
ticity and strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 5/8" (1.6 cm) hem.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.

19
 Triple straight stitch
Stitch selection: A or B
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: S

The stitch is sewn with two forward stitches and one

reverse stitch, creating a seam that is difficult to tear.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole
seams.
Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks
for extra strength.

Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric

moves back and forth.

Triple zigzag
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: S

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a

zigzag stitch.

This stitch is also used as a decorative stitch.

20
Sewing Buttons
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Button-sew-on foot
Thread tension: 3–7
Stitch length: 0
Feed dog: Lowered

Lower the feed dog.

Match the holes in the button with the horizontal

slot on the presser foot.
Adjust the stitch width matching the distance of the
holes in the button.
Lower the foot to hold the button in place. Check to
see if the needle enters into the holes in the button
by turning the handwheel by hand.

Sew about ten (10) stitches.

To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving
about 4.0˝ (10.0 cm). Bring the needle thread down
through one of the holes in the button and wind it
around the shank. Bring the needle thread to the
wrong side (bottom side) and knot.

21
 Four-step buttonhole
Stitch selection:
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide
Thread tension: 1–5
Stitch length:

Sew a test buttonhole on a stitch that matches the fabric,

the interfacing and the seams on the actual item of
clothing.
Position the button on the fabric sample and mark the
top and bottom side of the fabric to determine the posi-
tion of the buttonhole.
Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.

Carefully mark the length of the buttonhole on the

fabric.
Place the fabric under the foot with the buttonhole
markings facing you.
Move the slider (A) towards you so that the upper
(A) marking (C) on the slider is aligned with the mark-
ing for the starting position (B). Line up the mark-
ings on the foot with the upper marking on the
(C) fabric.
(B) PLEASE NOTE:
The scale on the slider is in centimeters.

Set the stitch pattern selector knob to " ".

Sew forwards until you reach the front marking of
the buttonhole.
Finish sewing on a left stitch.
Set the stitch pattern selector knob to " " and
sew five stitches. Finish sewing on a right stitch.
Set the stitch pattern selector knob to " ".
Sew until you reach the rear marking of the but-
tonhole. Finish sewing on a right stitch.
Set the stitch pattern selector knob to " ".
Sew several bartacks and remove the needle from
the fabric.
Set the stitch pattern selector knob to a straight
stitch with a stitch length of "0".
Sew several securing stitches.
Place a pin on both buttonhole ends directly in front
of the bartacks to prevent the bartacks being cut
open. Cut the opening with the seam ripper.

22
 Zipper Application
Stitch selection: A
Presser foot: Zipper foot
Thread tension: 3–6
Stitch length: 2

Pin or baste zipper tape to fabric and place it under the

foot.
Pull the threads towards the back and lower the foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, guide the zipper teeth
along the edge of the foot and stitch through the gar-
ment and zipper tape.
Turn the fabric and sew the other side of the zipper in the
same way as you did the left side.

Blindstitch
Stitch selection: E or F
Presser foot: Blindstitch foot
Thread tension: 1–3
Stitch length: 1–3

On heavyweight fabrics that tend to pucker, the raw

edge should be overcast first. Then fold the hem as
shown, leaving 1/4" (0.7 cm) of the hem edge
showing.
Wrong side of the fabric
1/4" (0.7 cm)
[A] Heavy weight fabrics
[A] [B]
[B] Fine or medium weight fabrics

Position the fabric, so that the needle at its leftmost

position just pierces the edge of the fold.

Turn the guide screw to adjust the guide aligning

with the folded edge.
Sew along the folded edge guiding the fabric so the
needle catches the folded edge.
Guide screw
Guide
Folded edge

After hemming is completed, press together both

sides of the finished hem. The top side of the fabric
should show only the blind stitches.

23
 DECORATIVE STITCHING
Vari-Overlock (scallop hem)
Stitch selection: G
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: 1.5 – 3

Use a lightweight fabric such as tricot. Fold the fabric

and stitch on the bias. You may need to increase the
needle thread tension slightly. Allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the fabric at zigzag stitches.
When sewing Vari-Overlock stitches, the distance
between the rows should be at least 5/8" (1.5 cm). The
Vari-Overlock can also be sewn in any direction on knit-
ted fabrics or fabrics with a soft and smooth texture.

Smocking
Stitch selection: D
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S

With the stitch length at “4”, sew straight stitching lines 1

cm (3/8˝) apart, across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin
threads and distribute the gathers evenly.
Secure the threads at the other end.
Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
3/8˝ (1 cm)

PLEASE NOTE:
A similar effect can be achieved by using an elas-
tic thread as the bottom thread. Wind the elastic
thread by hand onto the bobbin. Use a straight
stitch.

24
Appliqué
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 0.5 − 1

Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) appliqué onto

the fabric.
Sew on the appliqué, ensuring that the needle sews
along the outer edge of the appliqué.
When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the
fabric.
Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or
left.

Stretch Stitch Patterns

Stitch selection: A–G
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S

The balance must be adjusted if the nature of the fabric

prevents a uniform forward and backward feed. To do so,
turn the stitch length knob as follows:
If the stitches are being condensed, turn the knob
towards "+".
If the stitches are being expanded, turn the knob
towards "–".

25
 CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the
Shuttle Race
WARNING:
Always switch off the power switch and/or unplug
the machine from the power supply before disas-
sembling or cleaning the machine.
The machine must only be disassembled as
described in this section.

CAUTION:
Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area,
near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight.

Removing the shuttle race unit

Raise the needle to its highest position and open the
bobbin cover.
Open the hinged latch of bobbin case and take it out of
the machine.
Open the shuttle race ring holders and remove the
shuttle race ring.
Remove the shuttle.
* Clean the shuttle race with a brush and a soft dry cloth.
Bobbin case
Shuttle race ring holder
Shuttle race ring
Shuttle
Shuttle race

Assembling Shuttle Race Unit

Hold the shuttle by the center pin and fit it carefully back
into the shuttle race, forming a perfect circle with the
shuttle driver. Attach the shuttle race ring making sure
the bottom pin fits into the notch. Lock the shuttle race
ring by turning the holders back into position. Insert the
bobbin case.
Pin
Notch

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Oiling

WARNING:
• Always switch off the power switch and/or unplug
the machine from the power supply before oiling
the shuttle race unit.
• Remove the shuttle race unit as described.
• If the machine will not be used for the time being,
do not apply the oil until its next use.
• Only use high-quality oil that is suitable for sewing
machines.
• 1-2 drops of oil are sufficient.
• Remove any excess oil from the stitch plate as
otherwise it may contaminate the fabric.

• Oiling the shuttle race

Open the shuttle cover.
Remove the shuttle race ring and the shuttle. Clean the
hook area with a brush and a soft dry cloth.
Oil the indicated location.
Shuttle cover
Shuttle race ring
Shuttle

Cleaning the feed dog

CAUTION:
Always switch off the power switch and/or unplug
the machine from the power supply before clean-
ing the feed dog.

Remove the needle and the presser foot.

Remove the stitch plate setscrew and remove the stitch
plate.
Setscrew
Remove dust and lint from the feed dog using a brush.
Reset the stitch plate.

27
TROUBLESHOOTING

Condition Cause Remedy

The needle thread 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 13
breaks.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 14
3. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 10
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 10
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not set Page 14
properly under the presser foot at the beginning of sewing.
6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has Page 17
finished.
7. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle. Page 10

The bobbin thread 1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin Page 12
breaks. case and shuttle.
2. Lint has collected in the shuttle area. Page 26
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly. Replace the bobbin.

The needle breaks. 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 10

2. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 10
3. The needle clamp screw is loose. Page 10
4. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 14
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has Page 17
finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn. Page 10

Skipped stitches. 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 10

2. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 10
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work Page 10
being sewn.
4. A blue tip needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very Page 10
fine fabrics and synthetics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 13
6. The wrong needle is being used. Change the needle.

Seam puckering 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 14

2. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 13
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. Page 10
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric. Make stitch shorter.

The fabric is not 1. Accumulation of lint on the feed dog. Page 26

feeding smoothly.
2. The stitches are too fine. Make stitch longer.

The machine does not 1. The machine is not plugged in. Page 8
work.
2. A thread is jammed in the shuttle race. Page 26
3. The clutch is disengaged. The handwheel is pulled out. Page 12

Noisy operation 1. A thread is jammed in the shuttle race. Page 26

2. Lint has built up in the shuttle or the shuttle race. Page 26

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 Stitch Thread
Stitch pattern Stitch Presser foot tension Description
length

Four-step button- Buttonhole foot with

Overview
1-5 Standard button hole.
hole slide
Sew together and top-stitch. Can also be used as a basted seam.
A stitch length of approx. 1/10" (2.5 mm) is ideal for normal seams,
A Straight stitch Zigzag foot 1.5 - 4.0 2-6
while the length should be longer for basted seams or on firmer
fabrics such as jeans.
Straight stitch Left Sew together and top-stitch. For top-stitching on edges and sewing
B Zigzag foot 1.5 - 4.0 2-6
STITCH PATTERN

needle position in zippers.

Overcasting edges, sewing on bands, appliqué, sewing on buttons
C Zigzag Zigzag foot 0.5 - 4.0 2-5 and securing lace inserts. Reduce the stitch length to roughly 1/50"
(0.5 mm) for sewing appliqué.
Overcasting and reinforcing fabric edges, sewing on elastic bands,
D 3-step zigzag Zigzag foot 0.5 - 4.0 1-4
decorative seams, darning tears and patching work.

For an invisible hem fastening with simultaneous edge overcasting

E Elastic blindstitch Blindstitch 1.0 - 3.0 1-3
on elastic fabrics.

F Blindstitch Blindstitch 1.0 - 3.0 3-5 For an invisible hem fastening on woven fabrics.

Overcasting double-knitted fabrics like tricot, jersey or other

G Vari-Overlock Zigzag foot 1.5 - 3.0 2-6 lightweight fabrics on edges to create shell edging. Embellishing
any sewing projects.
For hard-wearing seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and visible
A Triple straight stitch Zigzag foot S 2-6
seams.

Triple straight stitch For hard-wearing seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and visible
B Zigzag foot S 2-6
Left needle position seams.

C Triple zigzag Zigzag foot S 2-6 Elastic stitch for decorative hem ends and quilting seams.

Elastic, decorative stitch for decorative seams on flexible materials

D Honeycomb stitch Zigzag foot S 1-4
and for sewing on elastic thread and bands.

Decorative elastic stitch. For decorating knitted or woven fabrics.

E Florentine stitch Zigzag foot S 1-4
Also ideal for crazy quilting.
Sewing together and simultaneously overcasting elastic fabrics, as
F Reinforced overlock Zigzag foot S 1-4 well as decorating items of clothing, household textiles and
handicrafts.

G Stretch overlock Zigzag foot S 1-4 Sewing together and simultaneously overcasting elastic fabrics.

29
 EN – 04/2017 – 2nd Edition
5060003.0.04 / 311801208
© BERNINA International AG
Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com

30
 EN – 06/2023 – 2nd Edition
5060003.0.04 / 311801208
© BERNINA International AG
www.mybernette.com/blue-jeans Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com